Tucked away between dark forests of luxuriant foliage, wild gorillas and vast plains of savannas, is a magical place called Lake Bunyonyi. The lake, nicknamed “the place of little birds”, lies in southwest Uganda near the borders of Rwanda and DRC. The 29 hilly little islands scattered around the crater lake are excellent for some R&R right in the centre of Africa.
Lake Bunyonyi
Awakening the first morning there, I opened my eyes and saw the mist rolling in over the hills onto the glassy lake. The sun had just started shining and the birds were chirping a joyful song. “I can’t believe this is real”, I thought…
break of dawn
We were staying an open-air geodome, crafted with local materials. No doors, no windows, just a thatched roof and walls with a big opening in the front serving as a gateway to the outside world. From our bamboo beds, we could admire the lake while filling our lungs with the fresh scent of morning dew… So close to nature, yet protected from its harshest elements.
the geodomeView from the bedeco-shower with a view
There was a serene silence around the lake. Aside from the occasional slow shuffle of a staff member passing by, the only thing you could hear during the day was the gentle breeze and the sound of birds and crickets.
In bed at night, I could almost hear the stars twinkling. It was like mother earth singing us a sweat lullaby.
Our days were spent spattering in the lake, canoeing to neighbouring islands, hiking, catching up on our reading and devouring the island’s delicious organic dishes.
paddling to another islandkids from the neighbouring islandenjoying the Garden of Eden with a cold lager
Lake Bunyonyi is were you go to take it easy. Ideal to unwind after some heavy gorilla tracking or after long days spent in safari vans. It’s a place of solace and tranquility, a place where you can really ‘just be’.
It’s a special and magical place in Eastern Africa.
You’re in Budapest and you’ve already seen the main tourist attractions or you’re not really in the mood to do so. It happens sometimes… and that’s ok! Especially in Budapest where there are plenty of ways to usefully spend your time in ways that will not leave you feeling like a lousy traveller. So how do you still soak in some culture and history?
Walk by the ‘shoes on the Danube promenade’
In Pest, on the banks of the Danube, there is an interesting memorial in honour of the Jewish people who were killed in Budapest during WWII. They were ordered to remove their shoes and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies would fall into the river and were carried away. I found this a moving piece of art, well worth a detour.
shoes on the danube promenade
Cure yourself at the Thermal Baths
Treat yourself to a soothing and possibly therapeutic afternoon at one of the 15 public thermal baths of Budapest. The city’s has been famous for its medicinal thermal springs since the Roman Empire (more on that here). Till this day, the inhabitants of the Budapest use these bath-complexes to heal, relax and spend some quality time with friends, family and fellow chess players.
locals playing chess
Some of the bath complexes date back to the 16th– 17th century. Pick your favourite for some R&R in the hot water pools, cold water pools, saunas… Most complexes even offer massages. I spent a snowy afternoon in the Széchenyi bath, one of the largest spa complexes in Europe. Switching from one 39C° bath to the next was quite challenging, with an outside temperature of -5°C. The contrast of the natural hot water and the freezing air made the experience truly memorable. I mean, how often does one get to bathe in the snow?! It’s good for the blood circulation, they say. Of course you can choose to bathe indoors too!
warming up on a grey day
Have afternoon tea at a historical Café
There are several renowned cafés which have been around for decades. The most famous and popular ones being “Gerbaud’s” and “Ruszwurm”. Be warned, the prices are quite steep, but in return you get a slice of pastry that has been perfected over the course of 80 years or more.Order a coffee or hot chocolate if you don’t have the means to indulge in afternoon tea! Sit back, enjoy whatever you can afford and let yourself get transported to the late 19th century.
€8 hot chocolate
Sunset at the Parliament
“More beautiful from the outside than from the inside”; normally a phrase that evokes negative feelings. Not in this case though. The Hungarian Parliament may well be the most photographed building of Budapest. Its architectural beauty is best admired from across the river. Bring drinks/snacks and marvel at this architectural beauty as it changes hues with the setting of the sun. Be warned, you’ll be sitting near a busy motorway, so don’t expect peace and quiet.
sunset on the parilamentdusk on the parliament
Shop for paprikas and souvenirs at the Central Market Hall
As a huge fan of markets, I had a wonderful time snooping around the central market of Budapest. There is nothing like getting lost in the numerous aisles of produce, cured meats, cheeses, spices, pastry, and endless supplies of paprika. It’s a great way to taste and learn about traditional Hungarian cuisine at its freshest. On the second level, you can browse through hundreds of crafts and tacky souvenirs.
central market halltable decomeats
Have a couple of drinks at one of the many ruin bars
A ruin bar or a kert is a temporary bar set up in a deserted building or factory. Sort of an underground pop-up bar, if you will. Some last only through the summer while others stay in business for several years. They are equipped with an eclectic mix of rejected and recycled furniture, works of local artists, graffiti… They have a certain edginess which makes them so popular with locals and tourists alike. Some of the bars serve cheap pizza during a couple of hours a night, others offer carrots with your drinks… “Why not eat a healthy snack with your beer”, the waitress said. TOUCHÉ!
“Szimpla kert” is one of the most famous and well renowned kerts. Up to date information on all the kerts in Budapest can be found here
healthy beer snackone of the rooms at szimpladrinks in a bathtub
Pizza at Marxim
Ever wonder what it was like to be a part of ‘the resistance’ during communist times? Ever wanted to feel that underground vibe? Well, you can! Marxim is a pizza restaurant/bar on the Buda side of town where you can -more or less- relive those days. How about a “pizza à la Stalingradsokje” or a “Red October pizza”? Why not even try a “Papa Marx’ favourite”?The décor is entirely communist themed and with a little bit of imagination; you’d think you were tele-transported back in time. Although, I doubt they had pizza back then.
booths separated by chicken gauze and barbed wiremaking revolution plans
Hang out at Fisherman’s Bastion
Yes, this is part of the classic attractions in Budapest, but it’s such a beautiful and fun place, it deserves a hangout visit! Ideal for a romantic rendez-vous, playing hide and seek, a photo shoot or a walk around the oh-so-quaint neighbourhood. Bring a scarf, hat and gloves on cold days, the wind up there is brutal.
view from my hiding spotromance at fisherman’s bastion
Spa-rty at one of the oldest thermal baths
If you’re into the party scene, this will probably be a highlight for you. Cinetrip organises audio-visual parties in unique locations i.e the thermal baths. Party in a 200year-old turkish bath surrounded by lasers, smoke and international dj’s… It’s no surprise these parties are rapidly gaining popularity. Not my cup of tea (anymore?), but not to be missed for those of you who want to give aqua-twerking a go!
sparty time
Discover the Hungarian cuisine and wines
While it’s not an internationally renowned cuisine, hungarian staples are quite tasty. I was surprised at their ability to turn something as simple as fried mushrooms with rice into a scrumptious dish. The food is very flavourful and hearty; weight loss is not a probability here. Spend some time looking for restaurants serving authentic dishes or take on of the widely available cooking class. Try goulash soup, chicken paprika and stuffed savoury crêpes. The sweet pastries are divine and much cheaper than in France. I found the cherry strudel to be particularly tasty.
caviar tartines, goulash soup, pastry galore, mushrooms and ricecherry strudel
Have you been to Budapest? Have you done any of these activities while there?
It was no mistake, but a conscious choice I made under the motto: don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!
There I sat, in the hostels’ common room, chatting away with all the interesting travellers who were exploring a relatively unknown destination: East-Timor.
As we discussed our experiences in the country so far, a new found friend mentioned he had stumbled upon a canteen that served dog meat. I was intrigued! Especially when the Chinese girl sitting across me affirmed that it was a must-try dish! She described vividly how good dog meat tastes and how it’s served in the form of pudding in China. Wide-eyed, I listened and grew more and more curious. I’m the type of person who will try any food once -maggots and cockroaches being the only exceptions. I felt compelled to try it. I wasn’t likely to ever order it off a menu but now the opportunity laid right in front of me… slow cooked in a red and green chili sauce, just waiting to be eaten.
Hey, don’t judge…
slow cooked in red and geen chili
Maybe a little bit of background first. East Timor – officially Timor Leste– underwent a long and painful bloody invasion that only ended 16 years ago. The country suffered from famine during the long lasting war and people were left with no option but to eat anything edible they could lay hands on, such as dogs.
Once the situation improved, people had gotten accustomed to the taste of dog meat and truly enjoyed it. We spoke with a local Timorese who explained that even though they would see the dogs eating the human corpses lying on the street, they’d still choose eat the dogs. Partly out of necessity and partly because they liked meat.
first bite is the hardest?
Since 2002, Timor-Leste is recognised by the UN as an independent country and things have been looking up. Even though the economic situation is still deplorable, dog meat is no longer a necessity. Yet, many Timorese still enjoy a good serving of dog while others refuse to consume it, as it reminds them of bad times…
Timor-Leste is a catholic country where a significant amount of muslims reside; Indonesians, Indians, expats and locals. Since dog is ‘haram’ in islamic culture, the Timorese keep the dog meat (RW) in a separate cabinet, so it wouldn’t ‘contaminate’ the rest of the food.
know your meats… “RW” is no chicken!
Anyways… I ate dog stew. How was it?
The sauce was delightful; it had a nice little kick to it but overpowered the gamey flavour of the meat, which was tough and chewy. Its texture was comparable to that of an old piece of beef you find at the bottom of your freezer. This wasn’t a beautifully cut steak I got, just some random squares of meat, consisting mostly fat and skin… I wanted to be brave and I didn’t want to waste food, but… I couldn’t finish my plate. With every bite, I couldn’t help but picture myself nibbling on one of those scabby streets dogs. So, I put down my fork and drank a litre of water. I’ve tried it and now know for sure; I do not like dog meat.
A couple of days ago, I started listing the 20 best things of Palawan, the Philippines. Today, I’m finishing off the list (Read part I here)
In no particular order,
What else makes Palawan so great?
11. Motorcycling through the country side
Hire a motorcycle/scooter in El Nido or Coron and drive off into the horizon. Feel the wind through your hair while taking in the beauty of the landscapes, the villages… Kids on the side of the road scream ‘HELLOOO!’ or put their hands out for a full driving speed high-five. The motorbike gives you the freedom to stop anywhere you like; an unexpected mangrove river or a little-visited kingfisher park… Beware of the half-finished roads full of potholes, especially right after big rains. If you don’t drive, you can always bat your eyes at someone with a motorcycle and get a ride. Yes, even guys might get lucky! Do what ever you can, because it’s a ride not to be missed!
red dirt roadsmangrove rivera minimum driving skills needed
12. The seafood curry at “Squido’s”, El Nido town
It’s huge, it’s messy, dirt cheap and absolutely delicious. The curry paste used for the dish comes straight from Madras and the seafood is as fresh as can be. With “Squido’s” being a French-Philippino fusion restaurant, guess what the curry is served with? Mashed potatoes! A surprising combo that leaves you wanting more. Check out this portion for two…
“fruits de mer curry”
13. The warm smiles
Smiles are not thrown around all the time, everywhere for no apparent reason, like in some Asian countries, but they are warm, wide and genuine. It’s the ideal place for portrait photography. Especially since people in the Philippines love to strike a pose!
a child’s smilephoto as requested by these girls
14. Sleeping and working in beach shacks
I don’t know about you, but I’m crazy about beach shacks. To me they crown the beach life experience. Sleeping on the beach is fabulous, so what about working with the sounds of nature in the background?
The internet is not all that on Palawan, but if you can do without, it’s the perfect place to get some work done or draft a couple of thesis chapters.
getting some work done…
15. Waterfalls and hot springs
Two of my weak spots. When I hear either of those words, I interestedly spring up, ready to make my way there. There are several waterfalls and natural hot springs across the island, most of them are low key and little visited.
low key waterfallsno pushy tourists
16. It’s Jurassic Park, minus the dinosaurs
JP is real and it’s in Palawan! OK, technically, it’s not; the film was mostly shot in Hawaii… Either way, I often saw myself in a Jurassic park scene and that’s just too exciting!
approaching jurassic park
17. Finding paradise around every corner
You walk and all of the sudden…
You drive your bicycle and all of the sudden…
You row your kayak and all of the sudden…
surprise!
…A little corner of paradise surprises you and welcomes you to sit back and relax…
18. The snorkelling
Those who don’t dive or don’t have the budget to do so, are also in for a treat in Palawan. The snorkel sites are at least as impressive as the dive sites. The coral is in excellent shape, colourful tropical fish are abound and the water is crystal clear. Sometimes you don’t even need to snorkel to admire the underwater world, you can just look down from the boat and get a glimpse of what lies beneath. As discussed in my previous post, there are a few shipwrecks you can discover by snorkelling.
wreck ready to be snorkledif you don’t feel like hitting the water, just look out of the boat
19. Having a cool beer on a deserted beach
Even if you are in the middle of nowhere in Palawan, chances are, there is a small house or shop nearby, the owner has a cold beer in his fridge and he’ll sell it to you for a reasonable price. This means you can have your ice cold beer in a deserted area! If you’re lucky, they might even throw in a couple of salted peanuts…
cold San Miguel on the beach
20. The insane sunsets
I still can’t get over how intense these were. Just for that, I’d return to Palawan. The following picture has not been altered in Photoshop! This is real!
sunset over El Nido
There you have it, the 20 best things about Palawan.Why have you not booked your ticket yet?
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I recently vacationed in Palawan, a gorgeous island province of the Philippines. Its natural beauty and its remarkable people blew me away. Words can’t begin to explain the experience, but I hope some of these pictures can, to some extent. So, here is part I of the best things in Palawan.
In no particular order,
What makes Palawan so great?
1. El Nido’s rock formations
Limestone spikes emerging from azure waters against a backdrop of lush greenery; that’s what you see when venturing in the bays around El Nido town. Astonishing!
Heart Island, El Nido
2. Kinilaw
It’s a popular dish throughout the Philippines, but particularly available in Palawan. Diced fresh fish or shrimp, gently cooked by the acid of its marinade; vinegar and calamansi (or lime) juice. Finished off with spices and herbs; salt, pepper, garlic, onion and chillies, it’s the Asian version of ‘ceviche’. It’s served cold and is the perfect lunch or starter. Every restaurant adds a personal touch to the recipe, which makes it different each time you order the dish. I ate my weight in kinilaw and I never got bored of it!
non-stop kinilaw
3. Being in Palawan during low season
Going to Palawan during low season, means the weather is not at its best. I was worried we would spend our entire vacation playing cards in our rooms waiting for the endless rain to stop. After all, we are talking about typhoon season here. Although it did rain almost every other day, the showers usually lasted between 20 minutes and two hours. Except for a few cloudy days, the sun shone brightly enough to burn my skin several times.
The best part about low season though, is the tiny amount of tourists on the island. We had most of the attractions all to ourselves! I strongly dislike all-in group tours, but we had no other choice than to book a couple, to save a few bucks. What a wonderful surprise it was, to find out the ‘group’ consisted of just Douglas and I. A private boat for the price of a 15 pax shared one?! That’s worth withstanding some rain! Low season also ensures cheaper hotel prices and the good deals are just waiting to be made! If you’re on a budget and like to escape the crowds, low season is the time to go! If you can handle the occasional tropical storm, that is…
tropical storm brewing uptyphoon sea
4. BBQ-lunches on the beach
With every island hopping trip, whether it’s private or in group, a lunch stop on one of the islands is included. The boat crew whips out some charcoal, a couple of fishes, fruits, veggies, some meat and transforms that into a scrumptious meal. And here I was thinking (knowing?) that organised tours only serve you mediocre to horrible food! Everything is freshly prepared on the boat, or on the island beach. A delicious barbecued lunch on a deserted beach, what else could you ask for?
BBQ on the beachbuffet
5. Kayangan lake- Coron island
How about a refreshing swim in what is said to be one of the cleanest lakes in Asia? The lake’s cool turquoise water is a mixture of fresh and salt water and is one of the seven enchanted lakes of Coron. Yes, I wrote ‘enchanted’. The indigenous Tagbanua tribe believes that spirits use to dwell here and therefore performed rituals to transfer these spirits to larger lakes. You can now enjoy a tranquil, spirit-free swim and enjoy the scenery. Very important tip: make sure you arrive here early in the morning, before the big masses of tourists do!
Kayangan lakeview from the top
6. The simple life
Life in Palawan is slow and simple. People spend a lot of time with family and friends, taking each day as it comes. It’s contagious. The “tomorrow is another day “-attitude and the “what will be, will be” -philosophy, makes you unwind and slow down. You think about what’s important in life, appreciate the good things you have while realising you don’t know how long it’s all going to last. It’s a typical island attitude from which we could all learn a little. That makes Palawan also attractive for the spirit.
boat washed up in a tree, but it’s all good…
7. The religion
As you may or may not know, the Philippines are, for the most part, a catholic country. I must say, it was very refreshing to see signs of Christianity again after being in Asia for 6 months. Not that I’m tired of pagoda’s, stuppah’s, mosques, temples and ashrams, it just feels so familiar to be surrounded by (kitsch) Maria statuettes, big crosses, people saying grace before a meal and church bells on a sunday morning. Who would have thought?
JCcountryside gate
8. The rice fields
Palawan is not all beaches, lakes and waterholes. There are also bright green rice fields all over the island, diffusing some sort of serenity. Although it’s not particularly THE place to be in The Philippines for impressive rice terraces and rice fields, they’re beautiful nonetheless. The greenery is a nice change from the beach scene. Take a walk around or drive through the countryside and take in the fields zooming by.
little house in the rice fieldperfect for a walk
9. Wreck diving
More than 20 Japanese ships sunk in the waters of Palawan during WWII. The entities where death once prevailed are now full of life. Coral has incrusted the ship decks and marine life has found a perfect nook to create their biotopes in. Some shipwrecks are as deep as 40m others lie as shallow as 10m deep and are perfectly snorkleable. Although we didn’t see much marine activity during our shipwreck dives, floating from one room to the next with a tiny torch in the hand was an intense experience. 100% Jacques Cousteau- feel.
ready for discoverywreck diving
10. Drop dead gorgeous beaches
I’ve seen a lot of paradise beaches, but these… These are without a doubt, in my top 3 list! Perfect for cliché photo shoots!
approaching helicopter beachwith a backdrop like that, who could resist a photo shoot?
Stay tuned for part II with more great things about Palawan!
Last summer I found out about ‘Capture the Colour‘, a photo blogging contest organised by Travel Supermarket. The idea is simple: post 5 travel photo’s on your blog which best capture the colour of the five categories: red, blue, green, yellow and white. I loved the competition topic, but I didn’t have a blog at the time, so I missed my chance to participate. So you can imagine my joy when I found out that they launched a new edition of the contest this year.
Here are my entries:
RED
Kids and their weapons. This picture was taken on a market in a village in Myanmar. I love this picture because of the different elements that you wouldn’t expect together: monk-child-gun (even if it’s just a toy).
red
BLUE
Manual fishing women’s club. It took me a while to understand what these women were doing when I saw them wading deeper and deeper into the ocean, fully dressed. The were lightly tapping onto the water with their fingers all the while singing and laughing. That’s when I noticed the fine net one of them threw out once they had formed a circle around a school of small fish. Nungwi, Zanzibar.
blue
GREEN
Lost in water hyacinths. Looking out over a field of water hyacinth on a lake in Monywa, Myanmar I suddenly noticed something moving about. It wasn’t a huge snake of a lost duck like I had expected, but a half naked man looking for some protein for dinner.
green
YELLOW
The leather making process. When you wander the streets of Fez, Morocco, there is no way around it: you’re in the leather processing capital of the region. Behind every nook, you find a link of the processing chain. labourers warmly welcome you to snoop around their work pace. This photograph pictures the sheep skin drying after treatment.
yellow
WHITE
Himalaya horse. During an overnight stop in Nepal, I found this horse grazing at the back of the shack where we were spending the night. It was only after a minute or two that the clouds revealed the dramatic backdrop. The man in the picture kindly pointed out: “You need to be on top op that mountain there tomorrow”. I didn’t want to think about that, I took a picture instead.
white
As part the of the contest, I would like to nominate the following bloggers to participate:
After more or less getting kicked off the market place by the orthodox jewish man blowing his “you better close your shop coz it’s Shabbat”-horn, we headed to our Israeli friends’s home where we were welcomed with an extensive and delicious Shabbat dinner. We learned about Shabbat practices and rituals. If you’re heading to Israel: get yourself invited for Shabbat!
announcing shabbatShabbat dinner
2. Bicycling in Tel Aviv
It’s certainly the best way of exploring the city. Especially during Shabbat when there is significantly less traffic. The city is flat and features long bicycle lanes and cycling routes that lead you to the city’s highlights or allow you to enjoy the back alleys. Cruising the empty streets and beach boulevard while the warm sun caresses your shoulders and the wind gently re-styles your hair, I can’t think of anything more pleasant to do in a big city. Stop anywhere interesting for a snack, a drink or a power nap.
beach boulevard
3. Tel Aviv’s hip but laid back night life
Semi-spontaneous rooftop parties, clubs you may enter wearing flip flops and quirky underground bars with retro ms. Pac-man machines. That’s the kind of nightlife I enjoy! Everyone is out doing what they like, not caring about what you’re doing or how you’re dressed. I mean how many clubs allow you to enter while carrying a huge backpack?
clubbing in backpack
4. Daily doses of hummus, falafel and charcoal grilled meat
Not a single day went by without consuming one of these staples, preferably all of them. Why? Because they’re just that tasty! I’m usually not the biggest hummus or falafel fan, but I quickly realised that what I knew as hummus and falafel, were just the ugly stepsisters of the real thing. Don’t even get started on the grilled meat…
hummus and falafel
5. Wandering the streets of Jerusalem’s old city
Despite the massive amounts of tourists, there are still plenty of back streets to be discovered by the independent traveller. There is a unusual yet calm and somewhat charged atmosphere hanging around the old city. Almost as if you could feel the weight of a thick millennia old history book pressing on you. At times, once away from the crowds, you get the impression you’ve stepped back 2000+ years. I hardly visited any churches/buildings. Just strolling through the quiet streets had a much greater impact on me.
quiet streets of the old city
6. Watching the religious and pilgrims reaching spiritual bliss in Jerusalem
Muslim, Jewish or Christian, people from all three religions have a good reason to pilgrim to Jerusalem. Christians flock to TheChurch of the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus Christ was allegedly crucified and buried. The Jewish community pleads by the Wailing Wall while Muslims pray in the Dome of Rock. I found it fascinating to see people complete their pilgrimages in full ecstasy and tears. Others were sliding their written requests to god into the cracks of the holy wall. I spent several hours marvelling at the way people were so intensely and positively touched by religion.
pilgrims at their point of arrivalemotions running high at J.C’s tombsecret messages
7. Crossing into Palestine and back
It was a very bizarre and uncomfortable border crossing. One that involves strong men and women carrying heavy machine guns, endless rolls of barbed wire, an uncountable amount of security cameras, intense passport checks, high concrete walls and firmly gated passageways. It’s how I imagine a heavily guarded prison to be like. It wasn’t really a fun experience but definitely an important one; a real eye opener. I won’t get deeper into the issue, as I chose not to talk politics on this blog.
on my way to Palestine
So on a lighter note:
8. Floating in the dead sea
A big touristic cliché, but still… Such a peculiar feeling! I tried going underwater, I really couldn’t! The floating was the main draw, but I also found it quite interesting to amble on a salt beach. More fun yet, when it was time to play around in the mud!
dead sea floatsalt beach natural mud bath
9. Talking politics over beers and nargileh
When in Israel, at one point or another, politics do come up. The discussions I had with locals were so interesting and surprising, that they made my ‘top-experiences’ list. Meeting new Israeli friends made the entire trip much more fascinating… intriguing even. The beers and double apple flavoured nargileh (water pipe) added spice to the conversations. As it did to all the following conversations, for that matter. Smoking nargileh is a crucial part of the regional culture, so when in Rome…
new friends, nargileh and beer
10. Learning, Learning, Learning (and being confused)
I could cite another tourist attraction here, but one of the things that really set this trip apart from others was the amount of new things I learnt. About conflicts, about people, about religion, about history, about peace, about beliefs, about the human race… It was overwhelming and memorable. I realised that during a trip to Israel one must really open his mind and heart to get the most out of it.
What I wish I had done in Israel: stay at a kibbutz; have a drink in the underwater restaurant in Eilat; party at a secret desert psy trance gathering and explore the Galilee, land of milk and honey. I guess I’ll have to go back.
One week lay over in ‘Kota Kinabalu’ or ‘KK’ for friends, capital of Sabah, the second largest state of Malaysia. Located on the island of Borneo, the state is reputed for its rich natural diversity.
It boasts Malaysia’s highest peak, a UNESCO world heritage tropical jungle, pristine beaches, world-class dive sites and orangutans in the wild.
Amazing!
Who wouldn’t want a weeklong layover in what sounds like an ecological paradise?! You would be mad not to grasp the opportunity to explore the riches of Sabah. Yet here I was, comfortably settled in my hostel dorm room, not planning any activities at all.
What happened?
Sabah does indeed have some gems, but like most treasures, they are highly protected. This means you mostly need to book packaged tours to explore the majority of them. That’s right, forget the ‘National Geographic-type’ scene of you and your local guide machetting your way through the lush steamy rainforest. There are clearly marked paths and lots of other tourists.
entrance to the park
To climb Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia’s highest mountain, you need to book your overnight expedition months ahead and it will set you back €270.
Kinabalu peak from a safe distance
During your organised canoe safari through the jungle rivers, your guide tells you he can’t stop the boat for you to check out the monkey posing by the river bank because it’s already 6.05pm and your tour ends at 6pm. (True story from several travellers I met)
You’re obviously not the only one taking the tours, so you can expect hordes of (Chinese) tourists, island hopping with you and leaving trash all over the not so deserted beaches.
arrival of a tourist group
For a guaranteed sighting of orangutangs swinging freely through the treetops you need to make way to the rehabilitation centre… Why spend seven hours on the road only to have to fight off a crowd of tourists on the viewing platform.
Don’t get me wrong, there are possibilities to have a more authentic Borneo experience and not use tours, but it will take you quite some time, effort and money.
So what happened?
I was simply not in the mood for extensive travel nor did I want a disneyland-type outing despite the fact that the attractions are unique in the world. I decided not to partake in the “mandatory” tourist trail. I spent most my days in Kota Kinabalu working from the hostel, getting massages, eating, socialising with travellers and the hostel personnel.
daily dose of Malaysian staples
After a while I started feeling some traveler’s guilt, thinking “I really ought to visit something...ANYTHING!”
So I took 3 short trips from KK and as it turns out, you can perfectly “fake” the tourist trail bygoing on day trips!
Even though I was being a lazy traveler, I still managed to see most of Sabah’s highlights!
One of the trips, which was actually an overnight trip, took me to Kinabalu National park
I didn’t climb Mt. Kinabalu but I did mount some sloping hills around it and got some great views
views
I hiked a few km’s through the rainforest
light hiking
A 15 minute boat ride just off KK’s coast took me to some unspoilt beaches.
deserted beachperfect for a beer
The last outing, took me to Rasa Ria, a five star resort which has its own nature reserve. It’s a short 45 minute taxi ride away from KK, which allowed me to spend a few a hours getting close and personal with our orangutan cousins. The resort’s rehabilitation centre is in close coöperation with the larger and more popular Sepilok Nature Reserve. There are much less orangutans in Rasa Ria, but also less tourists and the monkeys play around closer to the viewing platform.
happy and freebuddies
Unfortunately, diving was the only activity missing from my ‘lazy travel itinerary’. It takes an extra flight, a bus trip and truckload of cash (at least €500) to reach the underwater paradise of Sipidan. Although it would have undoubtedly been worth the trouble, I didn’t have the money. I still managed to see a lot of fish… on my plate!
yellow fin tunalobsterblowfishtropical fishblue spotted stingray
I spoke with many travellers in Sabah and they all confirmed my thoughts: by visiting this part of Borneo, you probably won’t be in for a rugged, authentic and unique adventure. Unless you have an abundance of time and resources, that is.
Sabah is a great destination if you long to comfortably experience what Borneo has to offer minus the hassle of organising permits, transportation… I would advice you to combine a visit to Sabah with –time permitting- Sarawak, the other Malaysian state on the island.
For a more unspoilt cultural and natural Bornean experience, head to Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo.
Have you ever skipped the main tourist attractions because you just didn’t feel like it?
