Images

Remembering Russia

With all the negative publicity given to the host of the Winter Olympics these past weeks, I started thinking about my own experiences in Russia a few years ago. The unbelievable “fail” photo’s and comments that sports journalists in Sochi have been tweeting got me “LOL’ing” as well as thinking: “why am I not surprised?!” During my travels through Northern European Russia I’ve encountered similarly bizarre scenes. However, when I call that trip to mind, I remember so much more than kitchens in the bathrooms or getting a fork to stir my tea with, because they ran out of spoons…

the restaurant gave me a plastic fork. All the metal ones were used up…

I remember…

A very open and elaborate drinking culture

Straight off the airport, we were walking down the street trying to find our host’s apartment. Noticing we were tourists, a random man stopped us and begged us to put down our backpacks for a minute so we could have a drink. He pulled out a large can of beer from the left inner pocket of his jacket. From the right inner pocket he pulled out two cups and started serving us. He made a toast and we drank the beer. We had been on Russian soil for no more than 30 minutes and here we were, standing on a side walk, sharing a beer with a stranger. Talk about a warm welcome!

vodka love

anytime, anywhere!

The stunning metro stations

The metro stations in St-Petersburg and in Moscow are awe-inspiring. We spent a few hours going on and off the metro just to admire the stations. Why don’t all metro halts in the world have ornate chandeliers?

fancy metro hall

metro station

I remember…

The midnight sun

Traveling past the Arctic Circle in July means it doesn’t really get dark at all. We’d stay up all night and chat with fellow travellers watch the sunset last for hours.

2 am sunshine from the train

never ending sunset in North Russia

The unique and diverse architecture

You might associate Russian architecture with massive concrete blocks with zero personality. Granted, these Sovjet blocks are predominant in the street scene but there is so much more to Russian architecture. The unique styles left a permanent impression on me.

St-Petersburg

St-Petersburg

St-Petersburg

Tver

Moscow

Moscow

I remember…

Staying with locals

We spent most of our nights either on the train or at locals’ houses. Some hosts we found through CouchSurfing, others randomly on the street -such hospitable people! My favourite host, we met and stayed with by chance. He was a man of few words, but when he said something… As you can see from the photograph below, he stayed true to the Russian ‘no smiling in pictures’ rule… Is it because smiling gives you wrinkles? A double chin maybe?

clearly, I have yet to learn how to “smeyes”

Weird breakfasts in hotels

The few times we did stay in hotels, we were offered the strangest breakfasts. It was probably due to our careless hotel choices, but every breakfast that was served to us seemed like a cluster of edibles found in the back of the fridge, stacked on a plate. Once we got a chocolate bar for breakfast…

tiny slice of bread, leftover cumcumber, chocolate covered twinkies, eggs, a large chunk of butter and ham.

I remember…

The Russian delicacies

I was on such an extremely tight budget, I didn’t get to sample much of the staples but I did have the opportunity to try some fine vodka and caviar. Two items I wasn’t fond of before the trip. I realised I probably disliked these because so far I had only tasted a ‘crap quality’ version of them! Also delicious, borscht (beet-cabbage-soup), Pelmeni (the Russian answer to ravioli), blini (Russian pancakes) and the chocolate, which is a big deal for a Belgian to admit.

exquisite vodka

caviar

The old school countryside… On the Solovetsky islands

Picking wild flower from a meadow, wooden cabins, washing our faces in a babbling creek, eating berries all day long, lying in the long grass spotting shapes in the clouds… The Russian country life brings a sense of carefree childhood. It’s probably one of the most cliché descriptions but it really does feel like traveling back in time. There were hardly any cars or telephones, women were washing laundry by hand, kids were running around laughing. It seemed so far away from modern reality, well, the Solovetsky islands are literally far from the modern world.

Solovetsky islands

wooden cabin

fresh strawberries sold on the side of the road

sauna toilet

picking wild flowers

Unfortunately the bad reputation Russia is making for itself is not just about poor accommodation in the olympic village. It’s about corruption, homophobia, violence… Yet, traveling around Russia was one of the most exciting journeys I’ve done so far. I could hardly read the signs and nobody spoke a word of English in most of the places we visited, but somehow we managed to communicate and get along very well despite the fact that I am an obviously foreign-looking woman. This brings me hope that someday- sooner rather than later- Russia will grow to be a more open-minded and tolerant nation.

Have you ever been to Russia? Would you consider going?

The post “Remembering Russia” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 17, 2014
Torajan Death Rituals

“Would you like to go to a funeral, m’am?”

Not exactly the question you’d expect when stepping out of a long distance bus… And yet, what this man was proposing, is quite normal in Tana Toraja. In fact, funerals are the “main attraction” in the region. Visitors mostly come to learn about the Torajan culture in which death happens to play a central role. The Torajans are known for their elaborate traditional funeral rites. Tana Toraja, which means land of the Toraja people, is located in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.

arriving in Tana Toraja, Sulawesi

Intrigued by this culture, we agreed to the invitation and headed to the funeral only minutes after dropping our bags at the hotel. Luther, our guide, advised us to gift a few packs of cigarettes to the mourning family. “Cigarettes”? How ironic. He also told us we were very lucky; we were going to the funeral of a very rich lady who had long been chief of village…

“Lucky”? What a confusing use of words…

The deceased lady’s family welcomed us warmly and insisted we’d sit with them. We were offered tea and biscuits while encouraged to chat about our countries. This was all very awkward. The taboo around death in Western cultures was clearly nowhere to be found around here.

The Torajans seemed very “relaxed” about it all. That might have something to do with the fact that when people pass, they are not buried straight away. Their families continue to work in order to gather all necessary funds to finance the funeral. It may take months or years before the burying rituals begin, depending on the family’s cash flow.

Meanwhile, the bodies are embalmed, wrapped in cloth and kept in their traditional houses or ‘tongkonan’, under the same roof with their kin. Their spirits then dwell around the village until the burial. The dead aren’t considered dead, but merely ‘incurably ill’ until the funeral is complete. They are treated as though they were still alive. Family members take turns in sitting with the body, brining it food, water and cigarettes on a daily basis. Not doing so would lead the deceased to think they aren’t cared about and he/she would bring bad luck to the village.

tongkonans

In Torajan culture, the funeral is the most important ceremony in life. One leads his life in order to have the biggest, most elaborate funeral possible. The 100 or more guests always bring a gift: cigarettes, rice, a pig or a buffalo according to their financial ability. The funeral lasts 11 days and consists of serval rites.

highly prized buffalo being gifted to the family

chanting and dancing

buffalo fighting is part of the funeral rites

a procession of the closest family members

spiritual men lead the procession

Torajan funerals are a bloody affair. The deceased’s soul is believed to travel to the afterlife on a buffalo or horse. How do you bring livestock to your afterlife? By sacrificing it, of course. Therefore, the more buffalo offered, the more reassured the family will be that their loved ones will reach his or her final destination safely. Apart from buffaloes, the dead will also need to bring along their most valuable possessions, including the rest of their livestock. This is one of the most important funeral rites: pigs and buffaloes are slaughtered by the dozens. Their souls join their owners while their flesh is distributed with the living family and guests. How’s that for a party favour, a big bag of meat…

gifted pigs

the meat is shared amongst guest and the blood is kept in bamboo

Because buffaloes come with a high price tag, their horns are cut off and kept as a “trophy”. They are hung up on the deceased tongkonan and represent the family’s wealth. The more horns on your house, the wealthier your family.

small buffalo horns

tongkonan of a wealthy family

When the funeral is completed the bodies are buried. Not under the ground, but in a cave or in a hole carved in a cliff. Family members craft a “tau-tau”; what could be compared to an avatar, representing the deceased. His/her spirit is believed to inhabit the tau-tau. They are placed on a balcony in front of the graves. Several times a year, after the rice harvest, family members ask their ancestors, inhabiting the tau-tau, for well being, good crops and healthy children.

graves in the cliff

tau-tau and graves

tau-tau; meaning not human, nor puppet.

more live like tau-tau

The burying ritual for babies is less complex. The lifeless babies are embalmed and placed in a sitting position in a carved hole of a large tree. The type of tree used a for the burying is a specific one; a thick white fluid oozes from its bark when cut. The fluid symbolises the milk the tree will feed the young child with. It embraces the babies by growing around them and closing the hole. It becomes their mother. These trees are considered sacred and may not be approached by outsiders but we were allowed to visit an old tree which is no longer in use.

baby graves

Attending a funeral is weirdly enough, a top attraction in Tana Toraja. I found it such an incredible enrichment to experience how this culture deals with death and what place it has in their communities. Watching the slaughtering was bit harsh, however that’s easily put into perspective since it’s so authentic. This is not some show put on for tourists, this is Torajan reality. People are so friendly and open, I quickly felt at ease.

‘Funeral season’ is in July and August, but there are funerals throughout the year. Tourists are welcome to attend them and are treated as honoured guests. Make sure you bring a gift to the family! There isn’t really a dress code, but obviously you should dress modestly and respectfully. If you have a black t-shirt, wear it; you’ll fit right in. The city of Rantepao is a good base to explore Tana Toraja.

Would animal sacrificing stop you from attending a local ritual?

The post ‘Torajan death rituals‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 10, 2014
Thingyan, Water festival in Myanmar

Who doesn’t love a smashing new year’s party? What if I told you this party lasts a few days, takes place in the sunny outdoors and involves insane amounts of water… That’s Thingyan, the water festival leading to the Burmese New Year. The festival takes place throughout Myanmar around mid april, during the country’s hottest period. Similar waterfestivals are celebrated in the neighbouring buddhist countries Thailand, Laos (Songkran) and Cambodia (Chaul Chnam Thmey).

We were lucky enough to be in Myanmar for Thingyan. It’s the most important public holiday in the country and we were told that the best place to celebrate, is in the capital. So we set off to Yangon a couple of days before the festival as there is very limited transportation during the festival.

I hadn’t expected the water festival to be a big deal. Boy, was I wrong! It started in the taxi on the way to the centre. The driver had covered the seats and dashboard with plastic.

stupidly thinking I stood a chance with my super soaker…

I asked him: “why is you car completely covered in pla…”

SPLASH!

An excited young man standing by the side of the road had just emptied a full bucket of ice water over my head. The taxi driver roared with laughter. “Happy happy?” he asked.

“Yes, happy…” I replied startled.

And so the tone was set…

ready for Thingyan

Although there is water thrown around absolutely everywhere, all the time -walking down the street in dry clothes is impossible- there are several areas where entertainment is provided. Most tourists found their way to the main square where a stage was set up featuring traditional dancers and water hoses. The dancing was beautiful but compared to what was going on in other parts of town this was quite boring.

THE place to be for Thingyan in Yangon is at the Kandawgyi Lake. That’s where all the cool kids go. It’s fun, loud, and utter madness. Dozens of temporary water spraying stations are set up and double as dance stages. Pop and electro music blares from the speakers as the people dance, play and sing under what can only be described as the world’s largest shower. Every two steps a cheerful Burmese shakes your hand and asks “happy happy?”. You reply “happy happy!”.

world’s largest shower (1.5km long)

Every single person is soaking wet and carries some kind of container filled with water. When you’re not standing under the “mega shower” someone empties their container over you and simultaneously wishes you a ‘Happy New Year’.

The water is pumped out of the lake and is flowing morning to sunset, non-stop. Hoses used to soak festivalgoers vary from regular garden hoses to fire hoses! At some point I was even sprayed down with a high-pressure washer which was quiet painful. But it’s for a good cause: the festival is held to wash away evil deeds, bad luck and sins from the past year before entering the new. Many of the adolescents take advantage of the more or less ‘free pass’ to commit some last minute “sins”. Drinking in public, walking hand in hand with their crushes, dressing and dancing provocatively…

the cool kids in town

Black Culture, organiser of one of the spraying stations, invited us to party on their dance floor. The DJ played some good beats and we mingled with the teenagers, hosing down passers-by. It reminded me of the City Parade, plus shower.

from the spraying platform

on the dance/hose down stage, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau

party at Black Culture, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau

The enthusiasm, excitement and happiness of the people were mind blowing. But then again, not really… This is the only time a year where the Burmese government permits crowds to gather in public areas. It’s the only time where colour, rank and status have little or no significance. Everyone is included; kids, grand-parents, business men in suits, tourists, bus drivers…

hiding under dad’s coat

The Burmese usually come across as soft-spoken, shy people, however, during Thingyan, they change into a fun-loving, outgoing crowd. Seeing this metamorphosis -maybe partly due to their alcohol consumption- is one of the things I enjoyed most about the water festival.

joking around with local women, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau

The festival lasts 3 to 5 days and the parties are mainly during day light. After sunset the participants return home and get a good night’s rest to resume the festivities the following day.

ending a fun day with a sleeping smile, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau

TIPS

It’s important to really participate. Let go of your inhibitions and dance, jump, party… Get in there, allow people to talk to you. Go just as nuts as they do!

Those wanting to take a break from the madness or wish to take it easy, there are funfairs and (wet) food stands around the premises.

greasy snacks

Don’t forget to protect your camera and other tech stuff from the water!

If you do manage to take a train or bus during Thingyan, don’t think your safe. You will get hosed down in there too!

Celebrate Thingyan in 2014 from Sunday April 13th to Wednesday April 16th.

Have you heard of Thingyan? Would you enjoy such a festival?

The post Thingyan, Water Festival in Myanmar first appeared on TravelCake.net

January 30, 2014
Cappadocia on a Budget

Desperately needing to spend some time in nature and to get a dose of exoticism, I set off to Turkey. My budget was rather tight, but according to my research, I wouldn’t be needing much spending money in Turkey’s easternmost province, near the border with Iran. Perfect, I thought…

As I arrived in Istanbul, I found out that unfortunately, recent political turmoil had turned the area I wanted to visit into a temporary ‘no-go zone’. I seriously considered persevering my trip despite the issues, but the travel agent almost refused to sell me a bus ticket and insisted I change plans. Eventually, the flexible and sensible traveller in me arose and I decided to go to Cappadocia instead.

Cappadocia, historical region in central Turkey

Cappadocia being one of the most popular areas in Turkey, I knew it would be trickier with my small budget. Since I managed to stay within budget, I thought I’d share some of the tricks that could allow you to have a cheap Cappadocia trip.

1. The classic: take the overnight bus to get there

Obviously, it saves you a night at the hotel. Taking the long distance bus from Istanbul to Göreme, the “hub” in Cappadocia, is like flying business class. Think wide reclinable seats with lots of leg space, a complementary blanket and a personal screen displaying movies- in Turkish. During the ride, a “bus attendant” strides through the vehicle’s aisle serving drinks/snacks and makes sure the bus is always tidy. The downside: there’s a toilet/smoke break every hour or so and all lights are turned on at each stop. So, maybe not the best night of sleep.

2. Walk to enjoy the magical landscapes

There are plenty of tours designed to show you the area, but honestly, you can do without. Just pick up a map and start walking. One of the tours might be worth paying for (the Green Tour) as the attractions are spread out over a large area. However, taking this tour reminded me how much I hate group tours. Important: if you don’t take any kind of tour, make sure you read up on the history of the area. It’s fascinating!

easy to find your way

the love valley

visiting 11th century murals with green tour

3. Hitchhike

You might be discouraged to go for a long walk because that would also mean a long hike back to town. However, people in the area are generally open to hitchhikers and chances are you’ll get picked up by the first car/truck with an open seat.

waiting for a ride…

4. Lodge in a cave

Not only is it part of the whole Cappadocia experience, it can also be very affordable. Many of the cave houses have been transformed into home stays and pensions. You can easily find an inexpensive dorm room (+- €7, at the time of writing) in a cave hotel with swimming pool. Most of these places additionally offer a generous breakfast buffet, leaving you full until the afternoon.

feeling like the Flinstones

not bad for a hostel…

5. It’s OK to skip the hot air balloon flight

It seems as though every single visitor to the region embarks in a hot air balloon during their visits… “an essential Cappadocia experience”. Admittedly, it’s probably gorgeous, memorable and what not. But with prices starting at €120 for a one hour flight in a crammed basket, the budget traveller starts to doubt… That’s food for a week! A great alternative is to wake up at dawn and watch the balloons float through the morning sky. Dozens of balloons amongst the fairy chimneys. Stunning! At no point did I wish to be inside a balloon… This view was just perfect -and free.

the town at dawn

sunrise, hot air balloons and a new friend…priceless

6. Cappadocian wine tasting

Wait, what is wine tasting doing on a “budget tip” list? First of all because… Turkish wine? Who knew?! That’s just an exciting must-try! Regardless of your budget. Second, a glass of Cappadocian wine is moderately priced and -in my humble opinion- not that great (yet?), so you’re not likely to go for seconds. Still worth a taste!

wine tasting along the way

7. Skip the Hammam

The Hammam in Göreme is pricey. Unless that’s where you want to splurge, I suggest you hold that experience for a larger city in Turkey.

8. Relax and Enjoy the silence

Although you’re in a touristy area, it’s still a quiet environment. Order a pot of tea and do some people watching or read that book you’ve been carrying around… Savour the peace and quite while soaking in the surroundings. This is probably my favourite thing about traveling on a budget: the monetary restrictions force you to spend at least one day not spending and consuming but slowing down and enjoying the beautiful, small things in this world.

customary tulip tea glass

in silence

9. Donate a strand of hair to win a trip back to Cappadocia

There is a tiny ‘hair museum’ in the town of Avanos. It’s basically a cave with over 16.000 hair strands hanging from the walls and ceiling. Female visitors from all over the world donate a lock of hair to which their names and address is adhered. Twice a year, Mr. Galip, potter and owner of the museum, picks a lucky winner to return to Cappadocia and learn the art of pottery, all expenses paid. He has not mailed me yet. Entrance to the museum is free.

walls of hair (photo credits)

Have you been to Cappadocia?

The post “Cappadocia on a budget” first appeared on Travel Cake.

January 27, 2014
Spiritual Tourism: Thaipusam 2014

“Experiencing the festival of Thaipusam”… Yes!! Another travel wish come true. A few years ago, upon doing some research on my travel destination Malaysia, this festival had spiked my interest. I was quite upset when I found out I was just a few weeks late for one of the country’s biggest cultural/religious festivals. Six years later, I was pressed against strangers on a train to Batu Caves where Thaipusam was taking place.

Upon arrival I was overwhelmed by strong smells of fried spices, Indian tunes blasting from every stall and an overly excited crowd. I threw myself into the mass to get as close to the action as I possibly could. It was steaming hot and slightly claustrophobic at times, but it was an experience I will never forget.

fresh chili’s

Thaipusam is a Tamil celebration of faith and gratitude which takes place every year between January 15th an February 15th. It’s the commemoration of the occasion where Hindu goddess ‘Parvati’ gave ‘Murugan’, god of war, a “vel” (spear) so he could vanquish the evil demon ‘Soorapadman’. Devotees make a vow to offer a “kavadi” i.e a physical burden, to request a favour from the god Murugan. The participants then start their journeys 48 days before Thaipusam by ‘cleansing’ themselves through fasting, praying and observing celibacy. On the eve of the big day, devotees carrying their kavadi, start their 15km pilgrimage- in this case from the main temple in the centre of Kuala Lumpur to the Batu Caves. The intensity of the kavadi ranges from carrying jugs of milk (symbol of purity and virtue) to followers taking a vow of sacrifice at every step by piercing their skins with hooks and spears.

carrying milk to the temple

oranges and miniature milk pots to weigh down the hooks

beginners start with lighter weights

some chose to pilgrim on their knees

milk and jasmin flowers

cheeks pierced with a spear

intense kavadi

chains to control pain level intervals

Most of them bring along some kind of an entourage playing music, singing and encouraging them by repeatedly shouting the words “vel vel!” in a trance-like way.

mersmerizing drum beats

dancing to the rythms

Though it’s less common, women and children also take part in the procession. Most of them carry milk, but every now and then you can spot a few of them enduring the pain.

vow of silence

The participants numb their pain with natural herbs and consecrated ashes, moreover helping them to reach a state of trance.

ashes and ‘special’ cigars

taking a smoking break

stupefied devotee

devotee’s spirit transformed into that of a sleeping snake

A strange mix of suffering, exhaustion, pleasure, trance, curiosity and spiritual bliss come together to form a peculiar and intense atmosphere during the procession.

suffering

exhaustion

pleasure

trance

curiosity

spiritual bliss

priest attending to devotee before entering the caves

The final sacrificial act of faith is for devotees to climb up a 272 step stairway to deliver their offerings in the Batu Caves temple.

Murugan guarding the steps to Batu Caves

inside the cave

Once inside the caves, the milk is offered and the hooks are taken down. Consecrated ash is sprinkled over the devotees’ hooks and piercing before they are removed. No blood is shed during the piercing and removal.

priest removing the hooks

TIPS

Leave your “germophobia” at home. If you want to get a sense of what’s going on, you’ll be close to people. Very close. You’ll be covered in sweat and I guarantee you it won’t necessarily be yours.

To get to the Batu Caves, take the KTM. It’s not a good idea to take a car or a taxi. Unless you just love traffic jams.

The procession goes on all throughout the day. However, it’s best to get an early start as it can get pretty hot during the day; 8.30-9.00AM is a good time to arrive.

In order to get some good pictures, start at the road, where devotees begin the last leg of their journeys. Then slowly make your way to the entrance of the caves.

You can climb up the steps with the devotees and enter the caves, but beware, this can be a long process. Unless you’ve never been in the Batu Caves, there not really much to see inside except… People… Oceans of people!

Once you’re ready to leave the scene, don’t take the KTM back. There is a long queue to enter the train which will be over packed. Instead catch a bus going direction ‘town’.

Would you consider going to a crowed cultural festival like Thaipusam?

January 22, 2014
Off the Grid: Exploring Indonesia

Disapproving looks are thrown my way as I type this article on my tiny phone keyboard. Who spends time on their phones when they are on a small tropical island?! Well… Me.

I’m in Bunaken, a lush island just off the coast of Sulawesi, Indonesia. The sea is warm, the coconut trees are a great source of shade, the corals are bright and the multi-coloured fish are bountiful. As in most parts of Sulawesi the internet connection is limited or non-existent. Therefore, I will have to restrain from blogging for two weeks.

I will however, post pictures on Instagram and Facebook. If you want to stay updated, make sure you connect with me, if that’s not the case yet. Just hit the “Like” button the Travel Cake Facebook-page or find me on Instagram- @mangovoyage

See you in two weeks with new stories!

How are you spending the first weeks of the year?

January 8, 2014
2013 Travel Summary, Part II

Resuming the travel summary of 2013, the nomadic year… Read part I here.

JULY… Timor-Leste- Gili islands

If you have to leave Bali for a few days, where do you go? Ummm… Timor-Leste? Why not… Practical information online about Timor-Leste is scarce, so I left without any expectations. That might be why I loved it so much. If not because I have a tendency towards raw and unknown places. I enjoyed the fact that it was a trip for “advanced” travellers , I had plenty of new experiences- like eating dog and I met some awesome people. Another destination on my top 10 best trips-list!

stunning landscapes

socialising with the Timorese

Gili islands

Douglas and I took a few days off to meet-up with friends from England vacationing in the Gili islands. I made it a point to visit all three of the islands so I could compare and decide which one to choose for future trips! Read about my findings here. We spent lazy days on the beach, eating freshly caught fish, drinking beers and snorkelling with turtles. It was the ideal lazy beach holiday.

lazy days

happy island kids

AUGUST… Borneo

I spent the last week of August in Sabah, Borneo. You might not believe it, but traveling around so much can get quite tiring. So I did what any burnt out traveler would do; I traveled lazily! I got massages, relaxed at white sand beaches, ate tonnes of fresh seafood, did mountain hikes, saw orang utans in the wild… Finally, I visited a refugee village on stilts, but that story deserves its own post. By the end of my stay in Kota Kinabalu, I had gotten quite a attached to the place. A place which seemed incredibly bland at first glance.

village on stilts

wild orang utang

SEPTEMBER… The Philippines

I had a travel dream. It took me 13 years to make it happen, but at last… I went to the Philippines… and I was not disappointed. I spent most of my time there in Palawan. Every single day, my dear Douglas had to listen to me say: “Look at this!! How is this possible?? I can’t believe this beauty is real?!”

island hopping

driving in the country side

The Philippines are really close to my heart, not only because I loved everything about this flavourful country; the good, the bad and the ugly. But also because of my Pinoy friends who have shown me the true spirit of the Philipino community. If you’ve missed my posts resuming our vacation in Palawan, check out part I and part II.

paradise beaches

Oh yes… and Manila is absolutely wacky!

OCTOBER… Home sweet home, Bali

Peace and quiet in Bali. For the first time in months I spent a full 4 weeks in the same spot. I used this time to explore the island further. I went on diving and snorkelling trips with friends in Lembongan and swam with graciously beautiful wild manta rays. I started practicing yoga and participated in a writing workshop during the Ubud writers festival. I woke up at the crack of dawn to visit Balinese temples minus the tourists. I wanted to learn Indonesian, so I enrolled in a class and finished the course. Now, I’m not fluent, but I can hold my head up high while having a basic conversation. I also know a fair amount of obscene words. What more do you need?

visiting temples

immersing ourselves in the culture

NOVEMBER… Vietnam

Once again I had to leave Indonesia. This time around, I visited South Vietnam on a quest to understand why so many visitors dislike it as a destination. Though I understand why, I only experienced rainbows, sparkles and chocolate covered kittens. I was taken aback by a fragrant cuisine that was new to me. Vietnamese food… WOW! Read about my trip here.

Mui Ne beach front

Vietnamese food

DECEMBER… Sulawesi

I’m writing you from Sulawesi, Indonesia where a couple of friends and I will be celebrating the end of a fantastic year and welcoming a new one. Hopefully a new year filled with laughter, friendship, love, adventure and realisation of goals and dreams. Those are my wishes or you.

Happy New Year, Everyone!

What was the travel highlight of your year?

December 30, 2013
2013 Travel Summary

2013 flew by so fast, I hardly saw the months pass by. In terms of travel, this year was insane! I moved from Europe to Asia and wound up in a place that “forces” me to leave the country and travel at least every two months. Not the worst deal, right?

Here is part I of my 2013 travel summary:

JANUARY… Belgium

I started 2013 in my favourite city of all times: Ghent, living and working in the city centre. It was an extremely busy month but an exciting one with lots quality time with friends and family.

frozen city centre

I conquered one of my biggest (irrational) fears: driving. It was a real challenge for me especially since the lessons took place at night, in the snow! Learning to drive has been on the top of my resolutions list for years. I finally pulled through.

FEBRUARY… Poland

I took a short trip to Warsaw with one of my best friends. Poland during the winter is no joke, but the snow embellished the city. We had a great time learning all about the Polish vodka drinking etiquette. I had my first experience as a journalist at a Polish radio station and enjoyed a fab jazz concert.

>Warsaw’s old town square

at Trojka Polskie radio

Exactly 3 years earlier, a British girl hitchhiked from London to Berlin and stopped in Ghent on her way there. We met, we hit it off, we became friends and she continued her journey to Berlin. On her way back to London, she passed through Ghent again and stayed with me for a couple of days. Ever since, she has moved to Australia and we never saw each other again. Until… we bumped into each other on Warsaw’s main square. Magical! We spent the little time we had, catching up over food and coffee!

reunited

MARCH… Oman, UAE, Bankok

I exchanged the everlasting cold temperatures of Europe for the Eastern heat. My voyage started in Oman. A country I had been drawn to for years. When I finally set foot in it, I fell in love head over heels. Oman was everything I hoped it would be and more. I stayed with an awesome woman who introduced me to Omani culture. We partied, gossiped, walked around Muscat, bonded over huge plates of traditional Omani food. During my little road trip I discovered the country’s wonderful and hospitable people, the ancient culture and the stunning nature… I loved it all.

Muscat’s corniche

digging in

United Arab Emirates

After Oman, I made a stop in the United Arab Emirates. Mainly to visit a friend who had just emigrated there. She showed me around the glam of Dubai. I was expecting it to dislike it, but Dubai surprised me. I enjoyed the fancy cocktails and the high class lunches. I loved the sense of safety and the well dressed tourists. Even though I have strong reservations about energy wasting in he UAE and the whole “bigger is better” attitude, one can’t deny it is a unique place on earth, showcasing human ingenuity. If only they could use that ingenuity in an environmental friendly and fair trade kind of way…

Burj Khalifa, tallest building in the world

Bangkok

When my time in Dubai was up, I made way to Bangkok. Again, just a brief encounter which was just long enough to allow me to get a feel of the city. I stayed in a fantastic boutique hostel that blew my mind. Refill Now! is probably the most stylish and clean hostel I’ve ever stayed in. I met some kick-ass ladies whom I explored the city with. I haven’t quite made up my mind about whether or not I like Bangkok. I guess I’ll have to go back to decide.

pool at Refill Now! hostel

Bangkok by night

APRIL… Myanmar

I spent three weeks in Myanmar discovering a country that only recently opened its doors to the rest of the world. It’s without a doubt a fascinating country, untouched in so many ways, but I didn’t LOVE the place. I don’t think it has anything to do with me getting a Buddha overdose, but there was just something that didn’t agree with me. Was it the fact that it was so hot you couldn’t move during the day? Or that the food wasn’t all that? Or was it the fact that I longed to stop traveling and settle down for a while? Or yet again, was I too bothered by the current regime? Either way Myanmar and I just didn’t click. I’m not sure why, I never really understood. All I know is; I won’t be going back any time soon.

beautiful Bagan

transformed into a Burmese lady

MAY… Malaysia-Singapore

In may, I finally got to store away my luggage for a while. Douglas and I settled down in Kuala Lumpur. The stability only lasted a short time as we moved from KL to Georgetown, Penang. Neither cities was the kind of environment we wanted to live in, so we decided to leave mainland Malaysia behind.

view from our window in Kuala Lumpur

getting stuffed in George town

Penang by night

Singapore

Later that month I revisited Singapore and just like during my first encounter 5 years ago, I loved the country/city. Yes, it’s freakishly clean, strict and (too?) organised, but it’s awesome! It’s an especially welcome break after the chaos of Kuala Lumpur. The food is amazing and I love how three very different ethnicities live together, side by side. If the rent in Singapore wasn’t so damn high, that’s where we’d be living right now.

mosque in Arab quarter

colourful facades of Little India

China town

Laksa

JUNE…Bali

Aaah, Bali… I found it just as beautiful as when I left it behind 5 years ago. It has changed a lot, but the essence is still present. The smells of frangipani and incense, the sounds of gamelan, the bright green rice fields… We found Ubud the perfect place to spend a few month living and working remotely. So we moved and started a new life on the islands of the gods.

vanilla pods drying in the Balinese sun

Balinese gateway

Stay tuned for part II of the year!

December 26, 2013