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24 Hours in Gisenyi, Rwanda

If there is one thing you’ll find in abundance in Rwanda, it’s pleasant, laid back towns. Perhaps so laid back , you might have to dig deep to find something to do. There is a fine line between chilling and being bored and that was my general state of mind in Rwanda; I was never sure if I was relaxing or slightly bored. Chances are, I’m just spoiled.

As I’ve mentioned in my previous article about Rwanda, it’s a country worth visiting, but maybe not as a main destination. If you’re in the area for gorilla trekking or volcano hiking, I highly recommend you swing by the lake side town of Gisenyi. Though I might be a little biased, having spent a few years of my childhood there, I think it may be Rwanda’s best town to hang out it in. 24 hours would suffice to sample the vibe. Add an extra day or two if you need some downtime.

This is how I would spend 24 hours in Gisenyi

Check in at Paradise Malahide hotel.

This popular hotel houses a staff that tries their hardest to make you feel at home. Clean small bungalows with an African inspired interior serve as rooms, all facing the hotel’s tiny beach. It’s located quite far from the centre of town so if you don’t have your own set of wheels, you’ll have to take the motor taxi which is an adventure in itself. It’s the right place to be if you’re looking for a peaceful stay. Rooms are quite pricey, but most accommodation in Rwanda is.

Reception area at Malahide

Have dinner in a local bar

If there is one dish Rwandans are great at, it’s BBQ’ed meat and fish. Go to a local bar and order some “brochettes and frites” with your beer. Bam, you’ve integrated in the local culture. The fries are served with mayonnaise -the good kind- something every Belgian will rejoice himself of.

We walked to an open air bar/restaurant right next to Paradise Malahide hotel and feasted on grilled beef skewers, fries and beer while enjoying the sun setting in the lake.

sun setting in Kivu lake

Breakfast in Paradise

Even if you haven’t spent the night in Malahide, it’s worth stopping by for breakfast. The presentation combined with the setting make their breakfast feel like such a treat. Again, it comes with a price tag but you get used to that in Rwanda.

organic omelette, crèpes, toasts, homemade jam and local thee/coffee… with a view

wake up slow

Head to the market

It’s basically your average big bustling African market, but if you’re anything like me and find all markets fun and interesting, you’ll want to hit this one too. It’s a great place to buy local fabric, which you can have tailored into a fashionable piece of clothing right on the spot. Bring an existing piece to have copied or have them make you a local statement piece. Rwandans are known throughout the region to be excellent tailors.

take your pick. photo by J. Rosenkrantz.

Stop at ‘Atelier des Poupée’

This organisation was founded by a French nun in the 80’s. Her goals was to provide widows with sowing skills and an opportunity to make an income. The atelier has been in the same place in Gisenyi ever since. The women make dolls with African skin tones, bags, wallets, and stuffed animals. All with recycled fabric. Every single item is made by hand and you can get a bag or doll custom made for a reasonable price. It’s small initiatives like these that I love to support.

signature dolls

leftover fabrics put to good use

Buffet for lunch

Buffets are the prefered dining style in Rwanda… And they should be! You get to load up your plate as much as you can and sample all the different dishes for a fixed price. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants offering buffets for lunch. Ask around to find out which ones are popular. Try Sambaza if you get the chance; literally meaning “small fish”, they are indeed tiny fish, usually deep fried and served with lemon and pili pili. A typical Kivu lake snack.

sambaza and frites. Photo by Sean J.

Afternoon and sunset at the beach

Though Rwanda is landlocked, Gisenyi has a decent beach by the shores of Lake Kivu. In the afternoons and during the weekends, the public beach is animated with children coming for an after school dip, showing off their salto skills. The calm lake is perfect for a swim and a lay in the sand. Some places rent out jet ski’s and motorboats; ideal if you need a little more action. Bring a Frisbee or a beach ball; you’ll make new friends instantly. Stay for sunset and you’ll see swarms of bats leaving their nests to start their evening hunt.

crown birds on the beach. photo by Alex Van den Daele

Catch a traditional dance show in a big tourist hotel

I know how this sounds; cheesy and ‘unauthentic’. But if you want to see the tall black men with blond hair do their traditional dance, these are the only places you will find them. These dances are hardly ever found in modern Rwandese society unless it’s for a wedding, birthday or as an opening act of an official event. The dancers are hired to put on a traditional show for parties and for visitors. It is still part of the culture but not so much in a spontaneous way.

We were lucky to see a show for free in our hotel. Though I found it quite impressive, I wouldn’t necessarily have paid for it or have changed my itinerary to see it. But that’s just me, I’m not particularly fond of cultural dances.

not used to watching traditional shows with tourist but fun either way

For the party animals: clubbing at White Rock

In my experience, travel in Africa leaves you dead beat at the end of the day. I rarely have any energy left to go clubbing, unless I’m staying in the same place for a week or so.

Loosing my edge? Maybe.

If you’re still feeling energised at the end of the day, white rock is probably the best place to shake your booty to the beat of Nigerian pop and American hip hop. There are several other places that will cater to your dancing needs. Things can change quite fast so ask locals which is the current ‘happening’ club.

A morning and lunch at Serena hotel

Whether you want to splash around in the pool or want to hit the gym, the Serena hotel is the place to be. They charge 10$ to spend a day at the pool included towels and a drink. The hotel is not just a glitzy place for a swim, it’s also of historical significance. It briefly served as the headquarters of the interim government that presided over the genocide of ’94.

Since you’re already paying for entrance, you might as well stay a little longer and have lunch on the terrace or by the pool. Get the grilled tilapia, it is incredible. The fish comes straight out of the lake on to your plate. The hotel restaurant offers many other dishes I wasn’t able to taste but judging from the other guests’ reactions as they took a bite of their dish, the food here is delicious.

Serena’s swimming pool

fresh tilapia

Leading up to the hotel is the ‘Avenue de la coopération’ perfect for a long stroll to digest the food and check out some of the crafts on sale along the way.

strolling down avenue de la coopération

The post “24 hours in Gisenyi, Rwanda” first appeared on Travel Cake.

November 11, 2014
What I’ve been up to + what’s next

It’s been awfully quiet on Travel Cake these past few week. So quiet in fact, some of you have been wondering if maybe I’d left the blogging scene.

If you’re following on Instagram or on Facebook you’ll already know that’s not the case.

So what have I been doing? Why the silence?

I’ve been traveling…

…IN MONTENEGRO

My trip started in Montenegro where I spent a couple of days exploring the South of the country. I must admit, I was a bit nervous when I set off as I knew almost nothing about Montenegro and hadn’t planned anything besides my flight. I had no idea what to expect: do the locals speak a few words of English? How far is the centre from the airport and what’s the best way to get there? What are the inhabitants of this country called? Monte-negr***?

This was going to be the ultimate “winging-it” trip. Never have I been this badly prepared. You know what? As it turns out, it’s not really a problem. I smoothly found my way to the lovely town of Kotor and stayed in a charming hostel where I met some inspiring people. I learned about the history, culture, food, language and how to catch a bus, right there on the spot. I was marveling at EVERYTHING because I had no expectations what so ever.

hiking in Kotor

I spent my days walking through medieval towns and gaping at majestic mountain scapes. I reconnected with myself during a solo pick-nick on a pebbled beach and had a “YOLO- moment” when I jumped in some icy waters with no one around to tell me whether it was safe or not.

All I could think about is going back. With a car, more time and perhaps a friend. By the way, the inhabitants of Montenegro are called ‘Montenegrins’, in case you were wondering.

…IN ALBANIA

Now I know Albania is not your typical ‘top of the wish list’ kind of destination but I had always been curious about this country. Once again, I crossed the border with next to no expectations.
Albania’s overwhelmingly stunning scenery, its taste, mostly organic food and its welcoming people took me aback. It is a rugged land with an edge. Everything I would try to undertake, no matter how banal, seemed like an adventure. Cycling to town, buying a loaf of bread in the corner shop or catching a bus suddenly became challenging activities. It wasn’t the easiest travel destination for a female solo traveller but it wasn’t too hard either. I don’t think I’ve uttered exclamatory WOW’s as often as I did in Albania. It’s a country that fascinates, mystifies. Another place, I can’t wait to go back.

slanted slopes of the Albanian “Alps”

…IN KOSOVO
Due to an unexpected turn of events, I suddenly found myself in Kosovo. I spent 24 hours in the city of Prizren trying to find Kosovo’s unique characteristics. Though I didn’t have enough time to find out, I enjoyed a sunny day by the river banks and an animated night in this charming city.

snacks in Prizren

I’ve attended TBEX, a travel bloggers conference
TBEX is the most renowned conference for travel bloggers taking place in North America and Europe every year. This year, it was the city of Athens hosting the conference and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to meet fellow bloggers and visit Greece for the first time. So off to Athens I went. The sessions at the conference taught me a lot about the ‘art’ of travel blogging: the social and the technical aspects. More importantly, the conference presented a chance to connect with colleagues and people in the industry. I met a wonderful community: creative people with strong drives looking to move forward, looking to inspire.

at TBEX in Athens

sunset over Athens

What’s next?
A PARTNERSHIP WITH VizEat

I’m happy to announce my partnership with VizEat, a revolutionized way of sharing a meal with a local during your travels or at home.. It’s a concept which I think will interest the traveling foodies out there. The idea is simple: you book a home cooked meal with a local in the country you’re visiting. The host dines with you, which creates a cosy opportunity for you get to know one another (and get the inside scoop of the place). Of course it works the other way too: you can have travellers dine at your house while you share food, stories and friendship. I’m excited to try it out and sharing the experience with you.

A TRAVEL DREAM COME TRUE
I’m writing this post at the airport. Waiting to board the flight to a destination which has been one of my dream destination for years. I’m off to…
Iran!
I’m looking forward to experiencing first hand what it’s really like there, to meet the people, to roam the bazaars and to find myself amidst the relic remainders of ancient Persian myths and culture. I’ll be blogging about my experiences when I return.

WE’RE MOVING AGAIN!
Although we loved living in Bali, it’s time to try something new. So we’ve decided to settle on the other side of the world. We’re moving to Latin America!
I’ll be sharing more details by the end of the year.
If you can’t wait that long, make sure follow Travel Cake on Facebook or join the free monthly newsletter to get the scoop.

Have you been traveling recently? Where have you been? Any travel plans coming up?

The post “What I’ve been up to and what’s next” first appeared on Travel Cake

November 3, 2014
Where to go in Bali – 10 Insider Tips

When I was living in Bali, my mailbox was flooded with e-mails from friends and acquaintances planning a trip to the island of gods, asking me which spots to hit. I probably should have written a standard answer to copy paste in every reply but just thinking about these places got me so excited, I didn’t mind carefully hand-picking the places that would suit my correspondents. Today, the same question continues to pop up regularly in my inbox and I’ve noticed I tend to recommend the same places on a loop. Anyone can open up a guide book or browse the internet for ‘things to do in Bali’, but these are the picks I recommend acquaintances, friends and readers.

Scooter trip Tirta Gangga to Amed & Bathing in Tirta Gangga’s holy water

Eastern Bali is an excellent area to drive around by scooter. The little roads lead you through picturesque villages and breathtaking landscapes. Somewhere in the midst of it all lies the ‘Tirta Gangga Water Palace’. Though the palace is alluring, it’s the soak in holy water that adds “pazzaz” to the scene. Spend the night in one of the charming guest houses in Tirta Gangga and visit the palace very early in the morning, before the day trippers arrive. There is something transcendental about taking a dip in a pool of sacred water surrounded by nothing else but sounds of nature awakening. From there drive to Amed and take in the natural beauty as well as scenes of rural Bali.

Tirta Gangga Water Palace

holy water pool

a divine feeling

view from my guesthouse

a ceremony on the way to Amed

Amed’s coast

Learn to dive in Tulamben

If you’re a seasoned diver, you might not love any of the dive spots in Bali. It’s just not the most impressive place to scuba. There are however, some beautiful submarine sites worth exploring.

Tulamben lends itself superbly as a place to get scuba certified. The fish and coral are both bountiful and colourful, there is excellent visibility and the water is warm. Right by the shore, at only a few meters depth lies a shipwreck in outstanding condition. It’s one of the few places where you have the opportunity to ship wreck dive as a beginner. Most of the dive spots are near the shore, so there’s no need to jump off a boat; you can just shuffle your way to the sea and gradually ease into deeper waters. Ideal for a nervous beginner. Not into diving? You can access some parts of the wreck by snorkelling too!

USAT Liberty Wreck (photo credits)

Exploring Jatiluwih rice terraces on foot

The rice terraces of Jatiluwih reflect the beauty of the Balinese agriculture. I drove to the UNESCO protected fields using the back roads and found myself at a non-official entrance. The only other people there were the occasional farmers working the land. Get got off the scooter/car and walk through the paddies of endless green. The further you walk, the less people and the better the experience.

cooking a batch of basmati rice, I never realising what beauty it came from

photo’s don’t even begin do it justice

Coffee, cloves and strawberries in Munduk

Anyone referring to Bali as an over-touristed hellhole, clearly hasn’t been to the Northern part of the island. In Munduk the air is cool and the soil is fertile. Perfect circumstances to cultivate coffee, strawberries and cloves. Munduk may be different from typical Balinese towns, nonetheless it’s not very memorable. It’s where the dutch held mountain retreats during colonial times to escape the Indonesian heat. That is still the main reason to head up there; a breath of fresh air, the hilly scenery, the waterfalls, the coffee plantations and eating strawberry covered everything -even pizza.

all what is good grows in Munduk

Gitgit water fall in Munduk

A Deep soul massage in Ubud

Ubud is a great hub to explore the verdant centre of the island. Base yourself here and enjoy all it has to offer: culture, art, spas, every type of yoga you can imagine, meditation, healing, delightful guest houses, organic restaurants catering to every allergy/food trend… Be warned, the town is extremely touristed. However it’s not too hard to get away from the over-commercialised areas and activities. As long as you know to expect a tiny but busy 10-street city, you won’t mind the crowed centre of Ubud too much. Let your hair down, join a yoga class, get a massage and a flower bath, eat an organic meal accompanied by a health shake and have a chat with locals. All the while wearing loose flowy pants and flipflop. Groovy?

spirituality everywhere you turn

yoga barn; the yoga supermarket

organic, locally produced, healthy food

Sunset in Pantai Suluban

Narrow steps in between cliffs bring you down to this tiny beach which disappears with high tide. The setting between the tall escarpment, the soft sand between your toes and unbelievably talented surfers riding impressive waves in the backdrop; It all comes together magnificently when the sun starts to sink in the sea. Strangely enough I didn’t carry my camera with me when I caught my favourite sunset in Bali! Perhaps that’s what made it even more enjoyable?

Suluban beach near Uluwatu (source)

Snorkelling with manta rays on Lembogan island

Nusa Lembongan is a small, tranquil island where you can truly spoil yourself. Be it with stylish yet affordable accommodation or with cliff hung spa’s overlooking the turquoise sea. Still, the best treat Lembongan has to offer is that of underwater splendour. Experienced divers may be able to encounter mola mola (giant moon fish) given the right season. But not all is reserved for divers. In fact all you need is a mask, a snorkel and a pair of fins. Try “drift snorkelling” where currents do the heavy paddling for you and carry you crossed the corals. Marvel at what looks like the worlds biggest aquarium drifting by and with you. The absolute highlight is snorkelling with 2 meter wide manta rays: so exhilarating!

R&R on Nusa Lembongan

not even the honeymoon suite

snorkelling with mantas. photo by Shawn Heinrichs

Beach Bumming on the Gili islands

Although technically not Bali but Lombok, the Gili islands are often visited as part of a trip to Bali. And they should. It’s THE place to be for the classic exotic beach vacation. No motorised vehicles, rustic shacks serving food and drinks, parties, beaches and all that goes with it. There are three Gili islands with very different personalities to chose from. Check out my Gili post to find out which one is right for you.

sandy Gili beach

Sunrise atop or at the foot of Mount Batur

Scaling Mt Batur to see the sun come up is one of the top attractions in Bali. Fit hikers can reach the summit (1717m) in a short two hour climb and can enjoy the sunrise from the top of an active volcano. However, I found that hanging around the slopes of Mt. Batur is just as pleasant. You can watch the sunrise from the foot of the volcano by the crater lake, have breakfast on its hillsides and bathe in the surrounding hot springs. Either way the Kintamani region promises a spectacular scenery.

watching sunrise over Batur’s craterlake with friends, leaving the hiking boots at home

volcanic hot springs near Mt.Batur

For the insane: ascending Mount Agung

As I mentioned above, the most popular volcano sunrise trek is on Mt. Batur. Let me just say this, from the top of Mt. Agung, Batur looks like a joke. Mt. Agung (3031 m) is the holiest place in Bali and although the Balinese tolerate foreigners ascending it, they themselves will not do so. It’s just that sacred. The climb starts around midnight and takes about 7 hours. From the top you have views over the entire island and you can even spot Lombok’s coastline and volcanoes. It’s a strenuous climb, to say the least and an even more taxing, somewhat dangerous descent. Pray for clear skies. If you’re looking for a physical challenge, this is it. I’ll admit it, I cried of desperation during this hike but I don’t regret doing it. Would I do it again? Nope!

For more “insane” activities in Bali, read my article “5 quirky things to do in Bali“.

thinking I’m almost at the top, I notice the pointy shadow telling me there’s still a long way to go

on top of Bali

Bali is packed with remarkable places, secret beaches, stunning temples, lush green valleys… So wherever you decide to go, there is no wrong answer. Except Kuta. Please, stay away from Kuta. It’s crowded, polluted, full of drunk teenagers, pimps and dealers. Mc Donalds, O’Neil and other chain companies rule the town. It’s the only part of Bali I really disliked.

One last tip: as you know by now, Bali is full of tourists, at times too full. I recommend you to visit the more popular sites as early in the morning as you possibly can. This is the only way to avoid the crowds and not return home pissed that you’ve seen too many -insert Western nationality. True, waking up at the crack of dawn is no pick-nick but if it means having ancient sites to yourself and the best lighting for photos, it’s 100% worth it! Don’t worry, there is always a quaint café nearby where you can take a nap later during the day.

unless this is your idea of a dream beach, stay away from Kuta

Which part of Bali have you enjoyed visiting or would you like to visit?

The post “Where to go in Bali – 10 insider tips” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 18, 2014
12 Favourite Destinations

It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.

I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”

“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.

In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.

With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.

While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…

So in no Particular order

1. Oman

I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.

wadi perfect for a dip

2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London

I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.

some amazing food in the area

3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali

This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic

rice fields around Ubud

4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe

As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.

sunset over the Zambezi

5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland

The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.

somewhere along the way

6. Living the island life in Zanzibar

I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.

Zanzibari fishing village

7. Morocco

Every time I go to Morocco I’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.

Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou

8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste

It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventure that made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.

coastline in Dili

9. Hiking Dominica

Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.

every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island

10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel

Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.

quiet streets of the old city

11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela

Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.

Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean

12. Bhaktapur, Nepal

Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!

Bhaktapur in the morning light

I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.

I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.

What are your 5 favourite destinations?

The post “12 Favourite Destinations” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 2, 2014
Things you might want to know before going to Rwanda

Rwanda is tiny African country sandwiched between some of East and Central Africa’s biggest: Uganda, Tanzania and The Congo. Its landlocked position, recent turbulent past and small size could be reason to question its tourism potential.

Having lived in Rwanda during my childhood and remembering the places we’d visit during the weekends and holidays, I could only regard Rwanda as a fantastic tourist destination. However, when I returned to Rwanda two weeks ago, I saw the country in a different light. I was no longer the expat getting the most out of my country of residence: this time around I was just a simple visitor. The country has changed so much since I left in ’94, so I got to reevaluate it completely, almost as if it was my first time there.

visiting my primary school

Although I enjoyed my stay in Rwanda, I heard many travellers complain about theirs. Most of them were let down because the country didn’t meet their expectations. Their disappointment led me to reflect on some of the things to anticipate when you’re considering to put Rwanda on your travel itinerary.

It’s expensive

Well, at least compared to neighbouring Uganda and Tanzania. Everything is more pricey: transportation, food, drinks, safaris, activities… Especially hotel costs will eat away at your budget. To give you an idea, we were charged about €23 to sleep in a standard tent- breakfast not included. A budget private double room cost about €40 per night. Cheaper rooms aren’t hard to come by, but it usually translates to sleeping in a stuffy, windowless closet. You can easily get around on a tighter budget if you’re prepared to rough it. Either way, in terms of value for money, Rwanda just doesn’t deliver.

from our expensive tent

Rules are rules and you will respect them

Rwanda has implemented strict rules and regulations which people follow well. For example, it’s the first non-Western country where I’ve seen motorcycle taxi drivers consistently wearing protective helmets and carrying around a second one for their passengers. The driver will not accept a passenger if he/she does not wear the helmet. Believe me, I’ve tried. The Rwandese seem to respect the new laws which minimises chaos and disorder throughout the country.

helmets are mandatory

It’s modern and well organised

Especially in the capital Kigali. There are street signs, a movie theatre, several coffeehouse franchises, wi-fi everywhere, taxis look new, the streets are clean and alined with tall flowery trees, there are side walks… Buses run on time and are filled to capacity- as opposed to double or triple in Uganda. This is less the case in rural areas and smaller cities but even so, it’s still relatively modern and organised.

Kigali city tower

most establishments have decent wi-fi and 3G network works well

It’s quite safe- even after dark

There are many areas with street lighting in the cities and it’s not odd to see an expat jogging after sunset. That says a lot about safety if you ask me.

Non-biodegradable plastic bags are banned

They’re downright illegal. Upon arrival in the country, visitors’ luggages are checked for plastic bags. Anyone caught in the country using a plastic bag can get fined up to 150$. Store owners stocking them face one year of prison. It’s a harsh law but an effective one; you won’t see mountains of rubbish as you would in other African capitals. Rwanda is striving to become the world’s first plastic-free nation. A part from the thriving underground trade in plastic bags, it’s going in the right direction.

The roads are windy but in excellent condition

I would even say they are better than the ones in Belgium, Rwanda’s ex-metropole. Once you get off the beaten track standards drop but they remain OK. Driving a rental car should not be a problem unless you have a serious fear of heights. The road’s windiness can get to your stomach so if you’re prone to motion sickness, don’t forget to bring your pills.

well maintained, exotic roads

There is a strange language situation

English has only been an official language in Rwanda since 1994 and only in 2008 was the entire education system switched from French to English. French is still an official language alongside Kinyarwanda. It makes communication confusing; some people only know English -mostly in Kigali, others only know French and people with very little education only speak Kinyarwanda. As an English and French speaker, I found it awkward to start every single conversation guessing which language to use, mostly choosing the wrong one first.

So, is Rwanda a good travel destination or should you skip it?

The disappointed travellers I spoke to were looking for something Rwanda is not. They were looking for the raw, authentic, traditional Africa. They found Rwanda too clean, too sterile, too modern and to Westernised. Although these things are true, I found it rather refreshing to see a different Africa! A progressive Africa that is quickly moving forward, that is considerate towards the environment, that values expression through art, where thing are going well- at least on the surface.

That being said, I wouldn’t recommend it as a main destination for travellers looking for an essential Africa experience. It’s worth a detour when you’re in the area for example in combination with a trip to Uganda or Tanzania. If your trip is all about having a “gorillas in the mist” moment, then Rwanda is a must yet I’d still advise to add an extra destination to the trip.

Have you ever though of Rwanda as a destination? Africa in general?

The post “Things you need might want to know before going to Rwanda” first appeared on Travel Cake

August 22, 2014
Bologna “la grassa”, a foodie’s paradise

Bologna is often referred to as the culinary capital of Italy. Because of its abundance and variety in high quality cuisine, the city was nicknamed “la grassa”or litteraly “the fat” during the Middle Ages. It was this little fact that had me browsing for flights and checking my calendar. Since I’m currently staying in Europe for a few months, I couldn’t possibly resist a food trip to Italy, could I?

So I packed some loose fitting clothes and off I went. Due to work obligations, I only had a short 3 days of spare time, thus limited eating opportunities. I didn’t get a chance to sample all that the Emilia-Romagna region has to offer, but I can tell you this:

La grassa does not disappoint!

Some of the staples I tried:

The Italian cliché: espressos and cappuccinos

It’s probably one of the first things that come to mind when you think of people-watching on an Italian terrace, whether you like coffee or not. The espressos were just as strong and tiny as I’d expected them to be and the cappuccinos had a perfect steamed-milk foam collar. For someone who doesn’t usually drink coffee, I sure had lot lot of caffeine racing through my system. Good thing it’s absolutely not done to order a coffee after 12pm or else I would have been bouncing off the walls all throughout my stay.

pre-breakfast espresso, comes with a glass of water to consume BEFORE the espresso to clear the palate

post breakfast cappuccino

playing with foam

Cured meats

Cured meats are not my thing. I hardly ever eat any, but these… These I could eat all day, everyday. It made me wonder if we can even call what we’re consuming cured meats. Typical for the region are pancetta, mortadella, different types of salami, prosciutto, zampone… Most eateries offer mixed platters which allows you to sample the different types of artisan meats. For cured meat fans, this is heaven on earth!

delicate and refined in taste

Parmesan

The home of parmesan cheese! This is where the good stuff is made. I wasn’t fortunate enough to visit the parmesan factory, so I did the next best thing; I waited for the crowds to leave and went to the market near closing time. I talked to the vendors who were relaxed since there was no line of people waiting to get served. I asked them questions about the cheese making process and tried different types of parmesan, to find the one I liked best. The vendors were very informative and eager to share their knowledge.

The “real” balsamico vinegar from Modena

Of course I’ve had balsamic vinegar before, but the real balsamic vinegar carries history and is made according to tradition. It tastes similar to your supermarket variety but really, it’s almost a different product. Did you know the traditional balsamic vinegar goes through an ageing process? Well, I didn’t! I tried a 25 year old vinegar. An incredible explosion of aromas! When I heard it pairs well with chunks of parmesan, I just had to try this unusual combination. Just exquisite.

parmesan with balsamic vinegar

Lambrusco

I tried out lots of Italian wines, a frizzante (sparkeling) Lambrusco is my favourite. I was surprised to learn how widely exported this wine is, as it was first I heard of it. There are white and rosé varieties but the sparkling red is really something unusual and particularly tasty.

refreshing glass of Lambrusco

The original Bolognese sauce

So, what we know as spaghetti bolognese turns out to be… a big fat lie. There is no such thing as spaghetti with bolognese sauce. The original sauce, called ragù, was created in Bologna, explaining the ‘Bolognese’ part of the name, but is not -and should never be according to the Italians- served with spaghetti. It has to be served with (preferably fresh) tagliatelle. I must say, I do prefer ragù with tagliatelle than with spaghetti.

ragù alla bolognese

Fresh pasta

Tortellini, tagliatelle, ravioli… You see them in shop windows looking so fresh, so delicious. I couldn’t resist and bought a wide variety to cook at home. Yes, I left Italy with a suitcase full of pasta.

Piadina

A flatbread typical of the Romagna region. It’s what you would have instead of a sandwich or a wrap. The toppings vary, but are mostly local products. It doesn’t look like anything extraordinary but looks can be deceiving. The freshness of the products and their delicate taste elevate this snack to a higher level. Make sure to get a piadina that is freshly made.

piadina on the go

freshly made with local toppings

Parma ham

There are so many different types, with different ageing processes I couldn’t chose which one to get. That’s why I asked the shopkeeper to give me a few slices of his favourite one. There is a factory in the town of Parma open to visitors where you’ll learn all about Parma ham a.k.a proscuitto. I wasn’t able to visit, but the tastings were good enough for me.

shop selling all the local delicacies

Gelatto

Another classic in Italy. So rich, so flavourful.

chocolate-hazelnut gelatto

Aperitivo

This was my favourite part of the trip. Every day, from around 5.30pm to 9pm most places in Bologna offer food with every drink you order. Some places offer a buffet, others have a fixed aperitivo dish of the day. Everybody flocks to these places after work to have drinks, a chat and something to eat. The food is included in the price of the drink. Aperitivo is the social meeting the culinary and that is perhaps why I enjoyed it so much.

aperitivo at Marsalino

Fresh produce

The markets simply impressed me. With fruits and vegetables looking so vibrant and smelling so fresh, all I wanted to do was to cook. The market inspired me to create… Not only dishes, but just about anything. If I lived here, I would never set foot in a supermarket. At least not for produce.

at the market

learning Italian vocabulary

There are so many other foods typical of the region that I have yet to taste. I like to think it’s a reason to go back.

Have you eaten in Italy? What is your favourite Italian dish?

The post “Bologna la grassa, a foodie’s paradise” first appeared on Travel Cake.

July 21, 2014
Why I travel solo even when I’m in a relationship

When I travel solo whilst being in a relationship, I’m often confronted with questions and remarks like: “Oh… you have a boyfriend? Where is he?” “He lets you travel all by yourself? WTF?” Then follow the looks of disbelief and suspicion.

For some reason, there seems to be a misconception that only women who are single, travel solo. Or that if she does have a person in her life, it’s probably nothing serious. Married women alone on the road? No way… Impossible! And yet, we exist!

Now, I can understand why this may shock most non-western cultures as the idea of women traveling alone is a relatively unknown phenomenon in those areas. People there are just starting to get used to this concept. I can see why they would have a hard time imagining a woman leaving behind her boyfriend/husband for leisurely travel.

What surprises me is how people in the West, supposedly accustomed to female empowerment and independence, often have the exact same reactions. Men and women alike. They ask me if my husband “allows” it?

“Allows”? Seriously? What age are we living in? I may be married, but I aint no prisoner!

I love traveling with my partner but when he is not in the mood for travel or not in a position to do so, I don’t let that stop me from doing “my thing”. I just travel solo even though I’m in a relationship and this is why I love it:

Meeting a different crowd

When I travel with my other half, we tend to meet types of people we both enjoy. When I’m alone, I connect with a different crowd than I would if it wasn’t just me. As a duo, you (unconsciously) take each others personalities into account and you are less likely to start socialising with people you know your partner wouldn’t particularly get along with. I find myself making friendships with a wider range of people when I’m alone.

mud bathing with new friends in Turkey

Reconnecting with myself

You’re on your own. There is no one else to take into consideration but you. You decide everything: where to go, what and when to eat, who to meet, whether or not to party… You can change your mind as often as you want, you’re the only one that matters.

That being said, there is no one to blame when things go wrong or when certain activities turn out to be dull. This pushes you to rediscover your likes and dislikes, your stronger and weaker points. There is no influence from your most trusted friend, which forces you to hear your own thoughts louder and clearer.

like: spending too much time in modern museums. @Tate Modern

Indulging in those guilty pleasures

Some things, I rather not do when my partner is around. Mostly girly things or stupid quirks like chowing down a burger at Mc Donalds (or any other fast food chain) with a large coke, something he strongly opposes himself to. Even though I’m not a big fan either, every once in a blue moon, when on the road, I like to indulge in a nutrition less meal with a horrible ecological footprint. When he’s not around, I can do so shamelessly and enjoy evil without getting the “I can’t believe you’re actually going to eat this” glare.

those little things you prefer to do alone…

pressure-free shopping in Istanbul

Confidence boost

In a relationship, you form a team, you become interdependent and learn to rely on each other. It’s a beautiful thing. Yet I find it important to remain functional when your other half is not around. We tend to forget how strong and capable we actually are on our own.

Dealing with scams, finding your way around town/a country, bargaining with your taxi driver… So many things are easier when there are two of you. By dealing with everything by myself, I find inner strength and learn to depend on myself again. There is no one to fall back on, you’re the one doing all the “work”. This evokes skills that may have been forgotten and it surely toughens you up. I had forgotten how fiercely I can bargain with hotel management, as Douglas would usually take care of finding a place to stay while I sat with the luggage.

finding my way around East Timor

Taking care of yourself on the road gives you a huge confidence boost. I believe that dealing with all the bullsh*t by yourself, only empowers you and makes you a more complete and interesting individual.

at the summit of my first mountain, Mt. Sinai, Egypt

Exceptional experiences

While this has nothing to do with having a relationship or not, it’s definitely worth a mention. Every time I travel alone, even if just for a few days, I always seem to land invitations to something unexpected or unusual. I’m not sure if the invitations are out of pity for a “lady with no friends or family, forced to travel alone” or if we are simply more approachable as solo travellers, but either way, I seem to find my way into the most -random- diverse activities. Weddings involving elephants, marlin fishing, photo shoots, secret turtle hatching spots, wool spinning, VIP champagne parties, coffee harvesting… As a couple, we get these kinds of invitations too, just not as frequently.

after a Balinese photo shoot during my first solo trip

unexpected invitation to an Indian engagement party

Relationship boost

Admittedly, it’s not really a reason more than it is a consequence. Finding strength in yourself, having time for you as an individual and having the chance to miss each other, are elements that contribute to a warm reunion and a strengthened relationship. You have a suitcase full of new stories to tell each other and a revived realisation of your feelings towards one another. Adding in the heightened dose of trust, you’re left with a strong and healthy relationship. If all goes well, that is.

reunited after a trip

Here are some tips to help things run smoothly…

* Communicate before you leave. What are your expectations from one another, especially in term of communication during the trip. Roughly how often do you want to get a text/mail? Respect the terms.

* Don’t travel to your partner’s dream destination without him/her. Du-uh.

* Don’t stay away too long. Personally I found 10 days a perfect amount of time. Longer than 12 days starts to feel a bit too much. But everyone is different, do what works for you.

*Bring along a picture of you together. Some people will think you’re making up this boyfriend/husband. It might save you a lot of hassle to be able to present a photo of the two of you.

* Ladies, the fake (or real for that matter) wedding ring trick doesn’t cut it anymore! If you’re going to lie, better make it count. Add some fake children to your story to be seen as off the market.

* When approached by someone who seemingly has dodgy ideas, never admit you are traveling alone. Your husband/friends/ whatever are waiting for you in the hotel.

Have you ever leisurely traveled solo while being in a relationship? Would you?

The post “Why I travel solo even when I’m in a relationship” first appeared on Travel Cake.

June 23, 2014
A Short Getaway in Portugal

One of my favourite things about living in Europe is being able to change environments in the blink of an eye. If ever in need of foreign food, unfamiliar faces or a change of surrounding architecture, all you need to do is hop on a short flight out of your country to find yourself in an entirely different backdrop. Whether you’re just staying for the weekend or taking a day or two off work, you return energised and fully replenished thanks to the change of scenery.

During my time in Europe, I’ve done all sorts of short getaways like hitch hiking to Copenhagen, exploring the Irish countryside, learning to drink vodka in Warsaw, clubbing in London, discovering the nooks of Budapest…

..And sampling Portugal’s delights.

change of scenery

Because I wanted to experience as much of the country as I could in a short amount of time, I decided to move around a little. Without having too much of a schedule I managed to see a little more than just one city, unlike usual short getaways.

DAY 1: PORTO

Thanks to the abundance of low cost flights, I was able to snatch return tickets to Porto for less than €60 per person. When it comes to picking a weekend destination, one of my main requirements is low transportation costs.

With its cobbled hilled streets, blue-and white tiled walls and a fantastic river side sunset, I found Porto the ideal place to start a trip in Portugal. Its small size allows you to stroll around and take in the atmosphere without feeling the pressure of having to visit a long list of must-see attractions.

Admire the architecture, try Port wine- the national drink, taste some local staples like grilled sardines or for the more adventurous, “tripas a modo de porto”: tripe cooked with dry beans, vegetables, pig’s trotters and offal. Although the latter dish is probably quite tasty, to me, it translated to ‘guts, pork feet and other organs’-stew, so I didn’t try it. If any of you have, please let me know if I missed out on anything!

The city really livens up in the evenings, cafés and restaurants are full of chitchatting Portuguese and internationals. Bars open late with customers often standing just outside talking, drinking, laughing on the street.

blue-and-white tiled walls of the Capela das Almas

a travel nerd’s dream come true: drinking Port in Porto

sardinhas asadas -charcoaled-grilled sardines

the Douro river banks by night

DAY 2: TRAIN TO LISBON

There are direct trains heading to the country’s capital from Porto every hour. The journey lasts around three hours and costs about €25 one way. We left Porto after breakfast and arrived in Lisbon in time for lunch.

I’ve said this before: I love cities by the ocean or the sea, Lisbon is no exception. The ocean brings a sense of cool and a laid-back atmosphere to the city.

A short visit doesn’t really do Lisbon justice considering all she has to offer; history, unique architecture, delicious comfort food, picturesque neighbourhoods, stylish shops and a vibrant party scene. Nonetheless, it’s a good introduction.

Lisbon’s roofs

hilly streets

Port wine, Portugal’s pride

walking around at night

DAY 3: LISBON ON FOOT AND BY TRAM

Yet another city that lends itself perfectly for exploration on foot. Lisbon is bigger than Porto though, so your feet will be thankful when you jump on to one of the signature yellow trams. We spent the day in and around Belém visiting castles, picnicking in the botanical gardens, trying the famous Pasteis de nata, which are not to be missed.

Monumento a los Descubridores

tram 28 takes you around the histrocial centre of the city

pasteis de nata from Belèm

Belèm Tower

DAY 4: DRIVING TO THE DOURO VALLEY

On day four we rented a car and drove north, enjoying the beautiful scenery on the way to the Douro Valley. This area was recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and is THE place to be for wine tourism in Portugal.

It is crucial to have your own transportation when visiting this region as it allows you to move freely and make as many photo stops needed. As you drive down the scenic route, signs lead the way to a plentitude of vineyards. Pop in and visit one or several of the wine estates. Most of them welcome visitors and even have (free) guided tours around the premises, explaining the types of grapes and the manufacturing process. Sampling is of course, part of the learning process… But don’t get too carried away, you still have to drive! We spent the night in Amarante, one of the towns in the area.

Douro valley during spring

learning about Port at a wine estate

tasting Port straight from the cask

road trip fun

spending the night in Amarante

DAY 5: HOME BOUND

We made sure to use a rental company that allowed us to pick up the car in one city (Lisbon) and drop it in another (Porto). So on day 5 we were able to drive the car to the airport in Porto where we returned it. And so ended a perfect short getaway in Portugal.

IMPORTANT:

Ladies, leaves your heels at home. I’m serious, these parts of the country are absolutely not heel friendly. You’ll ruin your shoes and you’ll be too focussed looking down to enjoy the surroundings!

Have you been to Portugal?

The post “A Short Getaway in Portugal” first appeared on Travel Cake.

June 8, 2014