Here is a quick post with a few pictures from the Philippines where I’m currently exploring the island of Palawan.
So far I can only say, the PHILIPPINES are spectacular, diverse, enchanting… The people are eternal optimists, polite and always up for a laugh. Even though I’ve only been on two provinces of the country, I get the impression the rest of the country shares these traits.
Here is a sneak preview of what we’ve been doing during the past few days
Discovering secret islands in El Nidorice fields and jeepneysmotorcycling through the country sidedelicious foodTaking time for some cheesy romancemonkey loveexploring the underground riverhopping around deserted islandsfresh eels for dinnermind blowing sunsets, no photoshop here!!
I’m excited to discover more in the following week!
First of all let me clarify that by Africa, I mean the sub-Saharan continent. It’s quite different from travel in North Africa which has a different set of “rules” to play by.
“I’d love to go to Africa some day, but I’m afraid it’s unsafe, too expensive and too difficult to get around. Can you really travel around as a backpacker?” That’s a question I’m often asked.
My answer is YES YOU CAN! -and it’s fantastic!
There seems to be general apprehensiveness amongst travellers when it comes to traveling in Africa. It’s a shame because ‘the dark continent’ is most definitely accessible. True, it’s not the easiest area to travel in -especially if you compare it with South East Asia- but it’s still very doable even for the unexperienced traveller. Budget-wise, you can make your trip very affordable if you don’t mind the occasional bucket shower and can handle a few rough edges.
upgraded bucket shower with a view
There are however, a couple of things to keep in mind before you start planning:
1. Realise that Africa is huge. Depending on how much time you have, pick one or two neighbouring countries to explore.
2. It’s essential that you choose the “right country” for you. Intrepid travellers could try places like Sudan, Mozambique, Malawi, Djibouti or any country that’s more or less politically stable. I would recommend beginners to start off with ‘easier’ countries that offer a minimum of tourist infrastructure. Places where you will meet plenty of other travellers and expats to exchange travel tips and ideas with.
Ghana, Senegal or Gambia are good options for West Africa. So are Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia or Kenya in Eastern Africa. In Southern Africa consider Zimbabwe or Botswana. All of these countries allow you to travel around effortlessly by public transportation, lodge in hostels or homestays and they offer Western food options which come in handy when you’re tired of the African staples.
Though South Africa is a possibility as well, I wouldn’t classify it as a typical African country in terms of tourism as it has an endless array of travel possibilities for the visitor and is so modernly developed you could think you’re in Europe of the States.
3. Take into account that you’re looking at slow travel here. It’s quite common for buses, trains and boats to run late. When I say late, I’m not talking about the “crazy” 20 minutes we complain about in the West, but rather 5+ hours. Your vehicle may break down in the middle of nowhere or it may get stuck in a pothole at some point… This means your arrival time can ( and probably will ) get delayed -at least once during your trip. In other words, having a tight schedule is simply not an option.
stuck in the mud
4. The larger the region you want to explore, the more time you will spend on the road. Expect long hours in buses, boats, trains and minivans. Most of which won’t be the most comfortable rides you’ll have in your life. In your average African country, a 5 seat sedan fits 14. Easily. Sometimes you feel like you’re playing human Tetris.
4 people in the front, 10 in the back
5. Africa is not a place where you visit one attraction after the other as you probably would in Europe or Asia. It’s a place you experience by interacting with locals and taking your time to be somewhere without too much of an agenda. Spend several days in the same town to really get the vibe.
getting my hands dirty in the local kitchen
6. The food won’t always be all that. There are non-African dining alternatives especially in big towns and cities, but in most smaller towns you’ll be served the local staples. For truly delicious African food, make sure you score yourself an invitation to a wedding, birthday party, christening or any kind of celebration. That’s when all the mama’s show off their cooking skills.
not so amazingno need to rough it to this degree either,unless you want tothe best sushi I’ve ever had was in Tanzania
7. The accommodation can get quite shabby at times. Unless you’re in a city or large town,there’s not always a midrange option. Often it’s either cheap and crummy or high-end luxury. Go for the cheap places and treat yourself every now and then with a more upscale stay, if your budget allows it.
upscale hotel with view on the national park
8. Whether you’re backpacking or not, safari’s are always an expensive affair. If that is something you want to do, keep a separate budget just for your safari. To give you an idea, at the time of writing the cost for a 2D/1N camping safari in Serengeti NP, Tanzania was $300 per person. And this was a decent deal with a local agent. There are cheaper safari’s available if you stay away from the most renowned parks.
safari
9. There are relatively few solo travellers in Africa so I would suggest you find yourself an awesome travel partner before leaving. Even though you could smoothly journey solo, you will have a better time traveling in pairs. Especially for women. You’ll feel more comfortable, it will dramatically cut the costs and it’s usually more fun when you have someone to talk to while you wait around for *insert anything*.
having fun while waiting for a boat
Traveling in Africa is very rewarding; it lifts your spirits and opens your eyes to some important issues the media hardly ever talk about. There are so many unspoilt spots that simply take your breath away. People are generally welcoming and excited to have a conversation with you. Let yourself get swooped off your feet by the laughter and rhythm in the air. If you’re still doubting whether or not you should backpack in Africa, all I can say, is DO IT! The adventure awaits!
backpackers race
Have you ever backpacked in Africa? Would you give it a try?
Long hikes are really not my cup of tea. But when I found myself in Nepal last year, I noticed all the shops in Kathmandu were selling all kinds of trekking gear and gadgets. Travellers where eagerly stocking up them and they was either excited about their upcoming trek or pumped up about the one they had just returned from. I knew people back home who would KILL to trek in the Himalayas, others who would spend the entire year at their desk jobs, day dreaming of their booked trekking vacation 9 months from then. “They can’t possibly all be nuts?!”, I thought…
So I decided to give it a shot. Might as well, since I was already there…
It was a 7-day teahouse trek, meaning there were small cabins where you could spend the night and buy a cup of noodles. The highest pass we had to conquer was at an altitude of 4,610m. Just to give you an idea of the level of difficulty.
The first 4 days were physically and mentally challenging. We suffered from the cold temperatures, the lack of water and a shortage of food. To add insult to injury, the weather was horrible. It rained, it was foggy and the skies were permanently grey. In other words, the view was non-existent. Even though the trek seemed like pointless suffering at the time, there was no turning back.
waiting for the rain to pass
As we pushed through the hardship, I tried to lift my spirits by coming up with other reasons why I was there. Here are the 8 reasons aside from magnificent scenery and the astonishing views:
1. To see what you will look like in 10 years if you don’t take care of yourself
The dry air at high altitude turns the lines from the grimaces you make while hiking into wrinkles on your face. A lack of showering and grooming, bad nutrition, sleep deprivation and in my case a lack of drinking water, also add marks to your face. There are pimples involved as well as bloated faces, sausage fingers, frizzy hair, cracked lips, filthy nails, smelly armpits and often a general zombie-like expression. You start to look more and more like the crazy cat lady. Staring back at you in the mirror, is an uglier, neglected and aged version of yourself that will make you swear you will vigorously start layering that day cream with SPF factor once you get home.
sparing you from an actual photo
2. To test your relationship
Whether it’s your relationship with a friend, a lover or a family member, committing to a long haul trek together will put that relationship to a test. How will you react to each other’s whining and mood swings? How do you cope with each other’s bad odours resulting from the lack of showering? These treks can be tough and may bring out the worst in you or your travel companion(s). Will you still love and care for one another after seeing each other’s dark sides?
Getting kicked off the mountain
3. To loose weight
I thought walking 6 to 8 hours a day, 5 days a week would instantly shave a few centimetres off my waistline. That’s how it seems to work in those weight loss TV reality shows. Oh how I was wrong. A full day of exercise is quickly neutralised when eating 7 snickers a day for energy… Who would have thought…
deep fried snickers
3. For the breaks in between
I found the moments in between the actual hiking most delightful. Joking around with locals. Sitting around an old fashioned wood stove with a cup of ginger tea trying to keep warm while sharing stories. Exchanging the experiences of the trek so far. Listening to the sounds of nature. Looking up at the millions of stars. Priceless.
ginger tea and funny storieswarming up with new local friends
4. To do penance
Once the physical challenge started to be almost unbearable and my mind started wondering what the heck I was doing here, regretting I had ever started. It was almost easier to just accept the pain. Accept the pain as a punishment for everything I did wrong in the past. I thought of all the people I had wronged or hurt, all the situations I handled badly because of selfishness, the unkind thoughts I’d had… and I apologised. I apologised to some kids I went to elementary school with, ex-lovers, family, friends, myself. I was suffering to do penance for my past sins. I guess is were you see that all those years of catholic school did eventually manage to slip in a few imprints my mind.
having a rough time
5. To remind yourself that you can handle a paramount problem by breaking it down into smaller problems and tackling those one by one.
Problem: one week of hiking. I couldn’t even start to wrap my mind around it. So I took it one hour at the time, one day at the time.
conquering the biggest problem
6. To have a great dinner party story to tell
The more pain you felt and the more horrible moments you had, the better the story will be. At least you’ll have some funny anecdotes to tell.
7. For a full technology detox
Spending a full week off the radar. No wifi, no e-mails, no phone calls, … Exactly the way things were when you were 7 years old. It actually feels quite good. For a while.
8. To revive your appetite for life
Not having running water, electricity, good things to eat, you favourite kind of entertainment, your friends or family around, remind you of all the great things you have. It’s a fantastic feeling to return home and be so thankful for running water, a good meal and a warm soft bed. “You don’t know what you’ve got till it’s gone”, right?
teeth cleaning with a view
For the record, in the end I did get to see the views and it was more than worth it. Just that was reason enough for me to want to go on a long haul trek again. Event hough I don’t really like trekking.
Have you ever gone trekking? Would you consider it?
For those of you who have not recently been inspecting the map of Indonesia, the Gili’s are three small islands just off the coast of Lombok, the island neighbouring Bali. All three Gili’s have that remote island vibe visitors look for. They’re all scooter and car free -which is very refreshing in Indonesia. The diving and snorkelling trips take you to all the good spots around all three islands, no matter which one you’re residing on. Each one of them has gorgeous white sand beaches and crystal clear waters. Yet they’ve each got a very different and unique personality. With only a couple of km’s apart, you could easily navigate from one island to the other. But what if you don’t have time to search for your perfect Gili? How do you choose the one that suits you best? That’s where this article comes in.
Ini mini miny moe, to which Gili island should I go?
1. Gili Meno- the smallest one
You can jog around it in 30minutes.
First impression- “hmm, this whole island is under construction”
About the beaches- there are a couple of patches of sandy beach, but most stretches have a significant amount of dead coral lying around. The shade is minimal. Using beach chairs is essential for basic comfort. Getting in and out of the water can get tricky as you’ll be walking on layers of sharp dead coral and stones. You can also find a couple of “mangrove-like” beaches.
sharp dead coral beachmangrove like beach
Development- there is a limited amount of bars and restaurants, but they are definitely numerous enough for you to consume each meal at a different place for at least 7 days. There are sufficient lodging options to choose from, but the island still feels quite empty. At the time of writing, a few new guest houses were being built and the roads were slowly getting paved. There is very little street lighting so once it’s dark, it’s DARK.
After sunset- nightlife here is non-existent. You might find a few locals jamming on their guitars but basically after dinner, all you hear is the sound of clashing waves and chirping crickets.
Perfect for- the traveller who is serious about his/her tan, the CEO who wants everybody to leave him the F* alone, the semi-celebrity who wants to go incognito, the adulterer with his/her mistress/lover, anyone who wants to get off the grid.
A piece of advice- bring a torch. Bring a lot of a cash as there are no ATM’s on the island. A pair of water sandals will come in handy if you plan on swimming a lot. If you’re traveling solo, bring a Wilson.
Wilson for company
In a nutshell: the general vibe is very laid back. At times you feel like you’re the only person on the island. Ideal if you need some hardcore de-stressing. Watch out for stones and sharp dead coral in the shallow water. The latter being a result of years of dynamite fishing.
Meno sunset
2. Gili Air- the one with a green heart
The only Gili with a fresh water source (‘air’ means ‘water’ in Bahasa Indonesian). Consequently, it’s the greener island.
First impression- “Let the vacation begin”
About the Beaches- take your pick; there are sandy beaches, where you’ll find most people and there are deserted mixed beaches (sand and dead coral mix). The sandy beaches are relatively empty in the morning when everyone is out on snorkelling trips and diving excursion.
sandy beach in the morning
Development- one side of the coast is well developed with guest houses, cafés, dive centers, a yoga and meditation center… The other side has little development and is scattered with a few low key establishments. The centre of the island is rural; farms, family compounds, local eateries…
restaurants on the calm side of the islandsmile includedgreen heart of Airhorse drawn carriages replace cars and scooters
After sunset- don’t count on a wild party. There are however, a few bars offering live music.
Perfect for- the “I don’t really like going to the beach”-types, the traveller who wants the deserted island sensation as well as Western comfort, yogi’s, families, nature lovers.
A piece of advice- rent a bike to explore the island. If you want peace and quiet, look for accommodation on the left side of the island (‘left’ when your back is turned towards the harbour). Go to the other side if you want more human interaction and more swimmable waters.
bicyling around the island
In a nutshell: the atmosphere is relaxed, the beer is cold and the sun puts on quite a performance every evening around 6.00pm. Cheap and decent accommodation is available and easy to find. It’s the place where you forget about time yet know exactly when happy hour starts.
happy hour and sunset
3. Gili Trawangan- but you can call me Gili T
The most popular one.
First impression– “Oh God, I’m old…”
About the Beaches– FULL. Of people, of bars, of restaurants, of club lounges, of shops, of dive centres, of beach vendors… Full of everything. HOWEVER, if you walk (or take a horse drawn carriage) to the other side of the island, the beaches are serene and empty.
full, popular beachesthe emptier beaches
Development- I think the line above explains the level of development well enough. There is a LONG strip by the beach, jam-packed with all that a tourist could ever desire.
After sunset- happy hour, cocktail hour, party, after-party… There are enough places that accommodate all the stages of a pumping party night. Pick up some live music, chill at one of the Ibiza-style beach lounges, grab some popcorn and attend an open-air movie screening or -if that’s your scene- order a couple of ‘magic mushroom shakes’ which are widely and openly available on the island. What ever you do, there is no way you’ll be in your bedroom fluffing your pillow by 10pm. That being said, please note that (during high season) the average age in the party scene is 20-26 years old.
ticket to the moon
Perfect for- the gap year student; the traveller who has spent several months in a remote area and is looking forward to a juicy steak, a good cup of strong coffee and someone to speak their own language with; the package tourist; the traveller who wants to combine party with some quality beach time; anyone under 24 who’s traveling in Asia for the first time.
A piece of advice- get some dark sunglasses for optimal and most discrete people watching. If you’re looking for a Robinson Crusoe experience, don’t choose this Gili.
In a nutshell:it’s the best imagineable summer camp for youngsters, 24 and below.
island rules painted on the wall
Conclusion
Personally, I preferred Gili Air. Although I had a fantastic time in Gili Meno snorkelling with sea turtles, catching up with old friends over a couple cool beers and devouring fresh fish off the BBQ, the island was simply too quiet for me. Gili T on the other hand, I found too busy, too crowded, too commercialised and I could absolutely not connect with the crowd. It’s just not my scene (anymore?). In comparison, Gili air is my kind of perfect. It’s the ultimate island feel featuring the best of both worlds. Of course that’s just my opinion. I’ve heard many travellers claim to have fallen head over heels with Gili Meno and others who swear by the upbeat atmosphere of Gili T. But as the French say, ‘des goûts et des couleurs on ne discute pas’ (there is no accounting for taste)
The best or perhaps the only way of exploring Oman properly is by car/motorcycle. Whether you’re driving a rental, hiring a car with driver, or hitching a ride from friends/strangers doesn’t matter, as long you have some kind of motorised vehicle at your disposal.
Sure, it’s not the cheapest way, but if you choose taking public transport, you’ll miss out on all the natural beauty Oman has to offer. The few available busses will only take you from town A to town B, which means you’ll have to skip all the beautiful wadi’s hidden in between.
The only big cost will be the actual renting fee. Gas in Oman is literally cheaper than water. At the time of writing, the gas prices were at €0.23 per litre and that’s not a typo.
I was lucky enough to meet Zeina, a magnificent Omani lady who had a car called Boxy and was up for a trip with me. Before I knew it, we we’re cruising on the Omani highway on a road trip from Muscat, the capital, to the coastal town of Sur.
Strangely enough, it started raining cats and dogs as soon as we set off. Seriously?! Rain in the deserts of Oman?! The average rainfall is 10cm per year… I assume it all came pouring down that specific day…Our car Boxy, wasn’t even equipped for such a rare event! Zeina, told me she had never used her windshield wipers before. Which explained the state they were in: practically non-existant. We laughed hysterically and waited on the side of the road until the rain showers eased away.
desert rain
As soon as the visibility improved we continued our journey and made our first stop. The sinkhole. Although it didn’t look all that attractive in the rain, I jumped in and took a dip anyway. “Ain’t gonna let a bit a rain scare me off”. It turned out to be a great decision as we had the whole place to ourselves and eventually, as always, there was sunshine after the rain.
swimming in in the rainsunshine after the rain
After a long swim, we resumed our journey to Sur, where we spent the afternoon strolling the corniche.
kids at playlost in translationmen hanging out on the cornichetraditional dhow
Once the sun had set, we tried to find the campsite we had heard about. Quite the challenge, considering the road signs were either missing or not lit. According to local villagers who kindly tried to explain where the campsite was, our poor Boxy wasn’t powerful enough too handle the off road terrain on the way there. The villagers guided us to a ‘better’ camping spot. We lit a fire using the washed up logs and chunks of wood. Suddenly, a fisherman in a pick-up truck popped up and drove us to a specific part of the beach to show us something “special”…
turtles nesting on the beachup close and personal with the sea turtles
The rest of our night on the beach was not uneventful, but that’s a tale I won’t be writing about today. It’s one of those stories that are better told in person, not in writing. The following morning, we kicked off our day in the neighbouring village with a delicious breakfast offered to us by the fisherman. After that, there was a lot of driving, laughing, eating… Your typical road trip scenario with stops in places like these…
ghost townsSurhot pink pick-up truckcity by the seatrying to figure out the mystery of the dead desert cowswadiwadi perfect for a dip
Oman is now one of my favourite destinations. I love the spirit of the people, the laid back atmosphere, the emerald waters, the hospitality and generosity, the dramatic landscapes, the culture- some parts of which are strongly linked with the Swahili culture of Zanzibar…
Shokran jazeelan, Oman and Zeina for an unforgettable trip!
When I told my friends I was traveling to East Timor, most of them had no idea where it was. Some had never even heard of this country. Understandably, since it has only been an independent country for 11 years. Find out more about it here. The country is located in Southeast Asia, but most SEA travellers skip this destination. Of course, that meant I had to go check it out. There was very little travel information to be found online, so I arrived there with little expectations.
I quickly discovered that East Timor is not a travel destination for everyone. If you’re looking for a cheap and easy Southeast Asia experience, this country is absolutely not for you. Or at least, not yet.
Timor-Leste
East Timor is expensive for a traveler.
At least if you compare to its neighbouring countries. The room rates start at $25 for a very basic, dilapidated double room. There is one backpackers place in the capital Dili, where you’ll pay 12$ for a dorm bed. Again, I’m not talking about fancy dorms…
For food in Dili, you can eat at ‘local canteen style eateries‘ and pay 2-3$ for a full plate of meat/fish, rice and vegetables. Expect 4-5$ at a cheap Indian joint. Go to a basic western looking restaurant and your prices will range from 5$ for a sandwich to 12$ for a fish dish. That’s more than double what you’d pay in Indonesia!
Conclusion: you can economise on food if you want, especially once out of Dili where western restaurants become scarce. However, accommodation will take a big bite out of your budget unless you stay put in Dili. Which brings me to my next point…
It’s hard to get around the country.
There are several towns that have semi-good connections by public transport. There are some ferries and busses/trucks. If you want to get anywhere beyond these places you either need a car (which can be difficult to drive since the roads are in such bad condition) or you need a suitcase full of money. Let me give you an example. Four of us were traveling to a town called “Maubisse”. It took us over 4 hours to drive 70 km. Once there two of the travellers decided to go to the next village so they could climb Mt. Ramelau, the country’s highest peak. This village was located 20km away. The journey took them almost three hours and cost 50$ each, traveling on the back of local motorbikes which broke down every half hour.
Timor-Leste is a small country but you need a lot of time and patience to get around it.
>3 HOUR FERRY TO ATAURO ISLAND (10$ RETURN)not so comfy ride to Maubisse
There’s quasi no tourist infrastructure.
Sure, there are a few dive centres in Dili, some restaurants offering good food, bars with live music during the weekends, a couple of club and a few emerging tour companies, but once you leave the capital, you’re pretty much on your own.
Particularly for a woman traveling solo, it definitely felt that way. Even as an experienced traveler, if I may call myself that, who has been in war zones and post-conflict areas several times, I was set on not traveling around the country all by myself as it felt quite uncomfortable. Therefore I traveled with at least one companion and encountered no problem whatsoever.
There is a huge language barrier.
Although English is one of the official languages, most people don’t speak it nor do they understand it. Same goes with Portuguese. In fact, the locals are quite annoyed saying: “we don’t understand why Portuguese tourists come here and speak to us in Portuguese expecting us to understand what they’re saying. They think we still know their language but the colonial days are long gone…”
If you know some Bahasa Indonesian, you won’t have a problem communicating, as it is the language Timorese are taught in school. Tetum and other indigenous languages are widely spoken, but I assume those are probably not in your language repertoire.
trying to arrange transport without words
That being said,
I LOVED EAST TIMOR
And I loved travelling there. It’s a beautiful destination. Very real, very rough.
Just like the other travellers you’ll meet in your backpackers hostel. You don’t hear the classic “I’m taking x months off to do a RTW/SEA trip” or “I’m on a two week holiday”. Here you meet travellers doing internships for NGO’s, people doing freelance work translating for Chinese business men, people hitchhiking through the Middle East, Africa and Asia for an indefinite amount of time, people with an impressive list of ‘off the beaten track’ destinations like Socotra (Yemen), Albania and Pakistan.
The country and its inhabitants keep on surprising you; the religion, the culture, the people, the landscape… I’ll be posting an entry on that soon.
I’ve made it a point to return to East Timor and use the knowledge I have acquired to discover the country in a more thorough manner AND scuba dive. Can’t wait to watch one of thee amazing sunsets again!
the sun sets over Dili
Had you ever heard of East Timor? Do you like traveling to “difficult” places?
I had been dreaming of going to Copehagen for such a long time, it was almost becoming an obsession. However, as we all know, Scandinavia can get quite pricey for us, outsiders. I had some time to spare but no cash to spend. Yet it had become an urge I just couldn’t resist any longer. So I talked to one of my most adventurous and spontaneous friends, K. We put our creative minds together and came up with an idea: Let’s have a fab long weekend in Copenhagen spending only €50.
Challenge accepted!
We managed to do a 4 day getaway from Belgium to Denmark spending no more than €50 each, all costs included. The good time was an added bonus. Here’s our methode…
How to spend a fabulous weekend in Copenhagen armed with only €50 and a smile
# 1 Hitchhike
Neither of us had done it before so we were a little nervous at first. Would we manage to get rides? – I mean after all, we are two little brown girls… What if a creepy looking person stops to pick you up… How do you refuse the ride? “sorry, you look like a rapist, I respectfully refuse your help”… Luckily, we’ve never had to deal with either situation and we quickly realised that when two girls hitchhike, they always catch a ride. The waiting time was so ridiculously short with an average wait of 1-3 minutes!
hitch hike
# 2 Bring along leftovers from your pantry
To reduce costs we brought along some leftovers found in our pantries: a pack of waffles, a couple of dried sausages, 1bag of pasta, 1 bottle of wine, 1 can of Frankfurters, 1 bag of soft sandwiches and couple of tea bags. Perfect for breakfast, lunch or snacks.
breakfast of champions
# 3 Get a ride from Suriname students that offers you a free McDonalds lunch
Some of the people that picked us up were so generous. Going out of their way for us, sharing their food, giving us useful things they had lying in their cars like bottles of booze and an umbrella… Others had interesting stories to tell, like the CEO who traveled around the globe and was bored of the classy 5-star hotels or the polish millionaire that had a semi-dodgy car businesses. The 65 year old truck driver who was madly in love with his wife of 40-something years or the three Suriname students who thought we were insane for hitchhiking and ended up buying us a meal at McDonalds. Each and every one of the drivers asked us the same question: “Isn’t this dangerous?” to which we would reply: “that will depend on you…”
people on the way
# 4 Use cardboard from in the trash to make your signs
making signs as we go
# 5 Use your puppy eyes to catch that ride
PLEASE
#6 To avoid rides from scary, dangerous men, always put on your “street face”.
‘SUP…
# 7 Pyjama party at a local friend’s place
Once in Copenhagen we were welcomed into the home of a friend I had met two summers earlier. At that time she spent a week at my place so she was happy to return the favour and let us crash on her floor for a couple of nights. She was so kind to spoil us with a nice dinner when we arrived and a delicious breakfast in the morning. If you don’t have a local friend I suggest looking for a host/friend on Couchsurfing, hospitality club or BeWelcome.
breakfast with Sofie
# 8 Get your hands on a free city bike to cruise around the city
The free city bicycles of Copenhagen are so popular that they are not very easy to find, but if you look carefully enough you’ll be able to pick one up and leave it behind at one of the many bicycle stations around the city. No complicated ‘credit card registration-type’ arrangements here, you just slip a 20Kr coin into the slot and it unlocks your bicycle. Your coin is returned to you as soon as you park your bike in the foreseen slot. EASY!
free bicycle
# 9 explore the city by foot
Walking around town is always free. There are so much interesting architecture around the city that you don’t necessarily need to go inside any museums and palaces to soak in some of the culture and architectural beauty.
around town
# 10 Ignore the morning flea markets
We started browsing saying “we’re not going to buy anything!!”. Guess how that ended… But if you really can’t help yourself… You can really get a good deal at these markets. Bangkok prices! Alternatively do some window shopping.
flea market
# 11 Visit free art expositions
art expo
# 12 Stumble upon a free (coffee) festival
There is so much going on in the city during the summer time, that you are bound to find some kind of (free) gathering. This mini festival had great artists performing and free coffee samples. We spent a couple of hours listening to Danish-Zanzibari hip hop drinking as many caffeine sample shots we could stomach. A perfect afternoon activity if you ask me.
coffee festival
# 13 Have dinner at ‘Morgenstedet’
It’s an amazing vegetarian restaurant in Christiana where you can share the huge portions with your buddy. The food they serve is made from fresh and organically grown vegetables. Check out this half portion…
half burrito
# 14 People watch in Nyhavn
Or anywhere else by the water. Get yourself a bottle of cheap wine from the supermarket and perhaps a bag of mixed nuts. Sit back, relax and enjoy the view and the company.
NYHAVNchillaxing by the water
And so we concluded our trip with a long hitchhiking day back to Belgium which we managed to do in one day. Although I don’t advise doing this many kilometres at once. It’s extremely exhausting; smiling to catch rides, chatting with the driver during hours, explaining who you are and what your trip is about every time you get in a car…
last leg of the trip in a truck. Yes, that’s a bed.
To remember: getting stuck on the road is part of the trip! Enjoy it!
There were more than 10 things I loved about Istanbul, but I’ve made a list of the most obvious and memorable reasons.
1. The Markets and Bazaars
Visiting markets are by default my favorite thing to do while I’m travelling. It’s where you can get a feel of what local life is all about. It’s the place you are most likely to be overwhelmed with curious smells, a mix of colours,foreign sounds, unfamiliar tastes, big smiles, sharp selling techniques… I hardly ever head to the market to shop, but to more to experience a new city. The markets and bazaars in Istanbul were no different. Although I did end up buying some local delights after sampling some tea’s, sweets, honey, cheeses and herbs.
fish marketlamps at the bazarthe Grand BazarSpice Bazar
2. The Street food + vendors
The street food I found in Istanbul was nothing I’d never seen before (except the stuffed mussels, yummy!), yet there is something very appealing about getting your food off the streets. It’s always very affordable and the vendors in Istanbul seemed to have a great time selling a show along with their product. Whether it’s your grilled sardine being thrown onto your sandwich bun from 5 meters away, or it’s the sweet nothings the vendor whispers into your ear as you reach for your döner, there is nothing ordinary about ordering a portion of street food in Istanbul. Try getting a “dondurma” (chewy Turkish ice cream), you’ll certainly get a complementary show.
kebabgetting a dondurma
3. The views from and around the Bosporus
The river flowing through the city forms the backdrop for a romantic scene. Lovers, fishermen, kids playing, families on their outing, teenagers killing time… There is life around the Bosporus, that’s certain.
romancesunset by the riverview from the Bosporus
4. The hip boutiques in Karaköy, Beyoğlu
Even though these shops where not within my budget range, I had such a good time window shopping and browsing the “sales-racks” hoping to find a steal. I often said to myself: “I’ll come back when I have more money!” The best shops, offering unique pieces by young designers, are off the main roads and near the Galata tower. Prices here are similar to those in western Europe.
boutiques
5. Fresh juice any time of the day
Apple, carrot, pomegranate, raisin, orange, lemon, strawberry, melon, pineapple, peach… All the fruity flavours you can imagine, whenever you want, for a very sharp price. Hello vitamins!
fresh juice
6. The old town
You could spend a whole week (or more) discovering this area, in fact, many tourist never make it to the other parts of town. I didn’t visit all the mosques and museums, nor did I walk all over the old town with a tour guide, so I missed out on the thousands of historical tales and explanations on the city. However, I managed to arrive at the sites before all the other tourist did which allowed me to get a real feel of that part of town… There is such serenity and spirituality in the air. At the crack of dawn, that is…
inside the mosqueby the mosqueblue mosque at dawn
7. The street art
comic muralmural
8. Shops selling the most random things
It makes the city all the more interesting. How often do you see a shop entirely dedicated to growing and selling medicinal leeches? (you place them on your body when you’re ill and they suck out the infested blood…)
BB gunsold personal photos for sale
9. Tea time break
I think I probably had a tea break every hour, two hours max. Just sitting along the road side or a terrace in the shade with a glass of hot tea and a book, watching people get on with their lives. Just wonderful!
tea on a terracetea and cigarettes
10. The surprises
I was often surprised in Istanbul. Small surprises and bigger ones. I don’t want to give away any spoilers, but these are just some of the unexpected elements . Visit Istanbul to discover which surprises the city has in store for you.
heart warming street performancemovie scenecatholic church in the middle of town
Have you ever been to Istanbul? What was your favourite thing?
