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Where to eat Vegan in Ubud, Bali

I’m not a vegan but the recent “clean eating craze”, has left me fascinated by the trending dietary belief systems. Gluten free, low GI, macrobiotic, vegan… I wanted to learn more. Particularly about vegan food.

Growing up with the Belgian/French food culture, I’ve always been a little sceptical towards cooking without “the good stuff”, i.e butter, eggs, milk, cheese, cream…

Like most uninformed non-vegans, I thought vegans generally don’t eat much, that their food consists of boring ol’ carrots and lettuce for breakfast, lunch and dinner. But every vegan I’ve crossed paths with has sworn to me that their meals are rich, tasty and creative. Just as much so as non-vegan dishes. I believed them yet I was still completely unfamiliar with the cuisine. This was something I strongly felt had to change. I couldn’t possible spend another year or so in the healthy food-yoga-medition-hippie town of Ubud without knowing something as ‘basic’ as what modern vegan fare entails.

smoothie bowl for breakfast

As a means to broaden my knowledge of vegan cooking, I challenged myself to eat vegan -and only vegan- for 10 days. I knew committing to an intense trial period was the only way for me to really get into vegan cuisine. I thought the challenge would be relatively easy as we live in Ubud, where we eat out daily and the vegan-friendly restaurants are plentiful. At least easier than if I were to be doing the cooking.

So this blog post could actually be titled:

Vegan restaurants in Ubud that will blow non-vegans’s minds

vegan sushi

The takeaway on being a vegan in Ubud:

Ten days of vegan eating flashed by incredibly fast. I ate refined, creative and bold dishes that certainly satisfied my hunger. I drank frothy coffee based drinks which almost beat the ‘real deal’, indulged in beautiful rich deserts, some of which definitely beat the original recipes. Not once did I miss animal products -ok, maybe once, when everybody was getting French croissants- but generally speaking, it was not hard to eat vegan in Ubud. The whole journey into discovery was so exciting, I was looking forward to the next meal every single day.

Did I physically feel different? Not really, though I felt generally lighter. Now that the trial is over, I’m going on a serious diet. A financial diet, that is. All the restaurants I visited are of great quality and worth their prices but dining there does eat away at your budget. So for the next few days; local nasi goreng (fried rice) every day!

To complete this post, here are the restaurants where I ate – and licked my fingers- during my vegan discovery week. Some of the best vegan spots in Ubud.

1. SAGE

Definitely mine and many of Ubud healthy eating expats’s favourite. Even for meat lovers, this place is a must try. It makes you instantly forget there is such thing as animal products. This is undoubtedly the place to go, for a dabble in vegan cuisine.

vegan cuisine at Sage

Address: Jl. Nyuh Bulan 1, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

2. BELOVED EARTH CAFÉ

A ‘sustainable eco restaurant respecting the earth and striving for harmony’. You’ll find Beloved Earth Café in the lovely gardens of ‘Swasti Eco lodge’. There’s also a pool which is open to restaurant guests.

offering a wide variety of vegan and RAW dishes and deserts

colourful dining area

set in a beautiful eco garden

Address: Jalan Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

3. ALCHEMY

Vegan café, juice bar, health store, holistic clinic, organic farm… Alchemy is more than just a vegan restaurant, it’s almost a small community centre, priding itself in honouring mother nature and its inhabitants. Sound to ‘floaty’ for you? Forget about the latter and just remember this then: they have an excellent breakfast bar you should try.

from the breakfast bar

sustainable delivery boxes

Address: Jl. Penestanan Klod No.75, Ubud

4. YELLOW FLOWER CAFE

The big draw about this eatery is the setting. It feels as though you’ve landed in a Roald Dahl story. Getting there, is just as dreamy, you’ll have to climb a gorgeous set of stairs into Penestanan.

steps into Penestanan

straight out of a children’s book (source)

Address: Sayan, Ubud (Climb the Penestanan steps in Ubud, turn right at the noticeboard, then follow the path)

5. CLEAR

“Eat the food you wish to be”, that’s Clear’s motto. Though I’m having a hard time conceptualise that saying, I’ve enjoyed eating their fresh, organic meals long before this little experiment started. Their juices and elixirs are sublime and worth a try too.

Yumm! (source)

Address: Jalan Campuhan, Ubud

6. KAFÉ and GARDEN KAFÉ

“A culinary innovation in healthy food”. You’ll find little kafé on the grounds of the Yoga Barn, an excellent spot to indulge in vegan renourishment after a sweaty yoga class. Those not into yoga, might feel more at home in the other Kafé which is located in one of the main streets of Ubud.

Macrobiotic bowl of steamed veggies

Address:

Kafé: Jalan Hanoman , Central Ubud

Garden kafé: Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud

7. DAYU’S

Healthy slow food. Now here’s a chilled out place where the chef really gets creative with fresh local produce. Dine here only when you have nowhere urgent to be though.

vegan burrito

porridge with coconut milk

Address: Jalan Sugriwa, Ubud

8. DOWN TO EARTH (‘Earth Café and market’)

Restaurant, health store and (!!) vegan cinema. I bet you haven’t heard of vegan cinemas very often. Check it out!

Middle Eastern influenced dishes

restaurant annex health store

Address: Jalan Goutama selatan, Ubud

9. KISMET

Long before this vegan experiment, Kismet had already conquered a spot in my top 3 favourite restaurants in Ubud. It’s not just the food, it’s the interior, the über cool atmosphere and the beautiful people you’ll find there. My top recommandation is the “asian bowl with noodles and vegan satay”. Enjoy!

Kismet chill out area

asian bowl with vegan satay accompanied by a glass of jasmine kombucha.

hello sandwich and desert counter, nomnomnom

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

10. FRESH (Taksu restaurant)

You’d never suspect you’re seated in the middle of jam packed Ubud. Taksu is a haven of tranquility serving excellent food. You’ll find the RAW and vegan menu in their terrace restaurant “Fresh”, whereas the garden café offers an attractive set of non-vegan meals.

the tranquil garden café

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

11. SOMA

“High vibes, organic delights”. Soma’s tagline summons it up perfectly.

coconut hang out at Soma

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

12. THE SEEDS OF LIFE

WOW! Not only vegan, but also RAW. This place was a true eye opener during my vegan trial period. I was so pleasently surprised by the dishes on the menu, I considered signing up for the Raw chef training they offer. “If this is what I’ll be able to cook, tell me where to sign up!” Unfortunately the “raw chef training” is too much above my budget so I’ll have to satisfy myself with dining in SOL.

dragon fruit chia pudding

the new seeds of life interior

papaya pancakes

I swear I did not JUST eat deserts during my vegan trial period

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

13. BALI BUNDA (Bali Buda)

“Real food by real people”. Restaurant and health store near the yoga studio ‘Radiantly Alive’. Another great place for a satisfying vegan meal possibly in company with your non-vegan friends.

gado gado, an indonesian classic. Mixed veggies, rice and tofu with a spicy peanut sauce.

Address: Jalan Jembawan, Ubud

14. LIVING FOODLAB

You’ll find this place on the grounds of HUBUD, ubud’s first co-working space. With a nice view over rice fields it’ s a great spot to relax while you wait for your food to arrive.

Address: Monkey Forest No.88X, Ubud

There are quite a few more vegan friendly restaurants in Ubud but 10 days was too little time to try them all. Let’s say I’m keeping those for a possible round 2 of vegan eating in the near future.

Have you tried vegan cuisine? Did you like it?

*Special thanks to Sam and Forest for helping me with this post! *

The post “where to eat vegan in Ubud” first appeared on Travel Cake.

June 9, 2016
What to Wear in Iran

Figuring out my wardrobe for my trip to Iran turned out to be a very interesting part of the travel planning. How do you dress in a country where showing your hair in public is illegal? Despite the fact that I had conducted some serious research, I was still feeling insecure about the outfits bulking up my backpack. I crossed my fingers, hoping that my outfits were descent enough and figured I could always buy a more appropriate attire if it wasn’t the case.

I traveled in Iran at the end of autumn and with temperatures dropping significantly, it didn’t feel unnatural covering myself up. You may have a different experience if traveling to Iran during spring or summer.

Enjoying the Iranian autumn scenery

Here’s a short summary of what to wear in Iran…

MEN

As it so often is, the dress code for men is simple as can be. You could sum it up in just a few words: everyday street wear. Leave your shorts and flip flops at home and you’re basically good to go. We found long-sleeved, cotton or linen shirts to be the perfect attire for men. You can roll up the sleeves on hot days and it makes you look relatively classy. Iranian men dress sharp and take good care of their appearances, you’ll fit right in.

when it comes to dressing culturally appropriate, men always have it easier

Let’s move on the the more complex part of the equation:

WOMEN

For women it’s a bit more of an adjustment.

HEADSCARF

Or hijab. When in public, you are obliged by law to cover your hair at all times. So yes, in the hotel lobby and in the restaurant but no, not in your room or at a friend’s house. There is no restriction on how colourful your hijab can be, anything goes. Though most women wear somewhat sober colours; pastels, neutrals or dark scarves with a subtle print or none at all. As a noob, avoid silk headscarves as they tend to slide off your hair very easily. A cotton based scarf will do the trick for us “hijab amateurs”.

wearing loosely wrapped headscarf. I quite enjoyed not having to brush my hair every day

Note: If you look at the Iranian women in cities, you’ll see plenty wearing their scarves as far back as possible, showing off a big part of their hair. By doing so, the majority of them are making a political statement and have taken on the risk of being “scolded” by the morality police (yes, the morality police is real in Iran). Though visitors are not nearly as harshly judged as local women, I’d advise you to comply to the rules and let your hijab cover most of your hair. That being said, it’s totally fine to have a few locks peeking from your headscarf.

MANTEAU

A manteau is a light overcoat which covers your clothing. Manteaus come in a wide variety of shapes and colours but serve the same purpose: hiding your curves. You could buy your manteau in Iran however your everyday coat from home should be could enough. Think ‘trench coat’, ‘parka’ or ‘cloak’. You can also get away with a lengthy oversized sweater. As long as it’s not figure hugging and has a minimal length of just below your ‘derrière’. It feels quite awkward to keep on your jacket while sitting at an indoor restaurant table but you get used to it. Sort of.

my old trusty parka as a manteau

baggy pants and oversized lengthy sweater revealing zero curves

Underneath your manteau, you can wear whatever you want since the manteau stays on in public.

Just make sure that:

– You cover your legs down to the ankle. A loose fitting maxi dress or skirt should do the trick.

– You cover your neckline, arms and body.

Maxi skirt with a knee length cardigan on top.

Tight jeans seem to be accepted and widely worn. Cover up those thighs though!

SHOES AND ACCESSORIES

Open-toed sandals are tolerated though you might feel a little “naked” wearing them. A more comfortable choice would be a flat shoe – a ballerina or a sneaker. Consider a pair of solid flat boots during the colder seasons.

Because I had no other boots in my collection and refused to purchase a new pair solely for this trip -meet a woman who owns just 3 pairs of shoes- I ended up wearing heeled boots on cold days. I definitely stood out in them which made me feel uncomfortable. One guy even told me this was the snobby style for rich girls in the city. I couldn’t in the slightest relate to that. So maybe leave your heels at home.

In terms of accessories, wear what you usually would during any other trip. What works best for me is to keep it minimal and add some local bling along the way.

rich girl heels and a backpack with Persian design, gifted by a local friend

CHADOR

A chador is a large piece of fabric that covers your entire body head to toe. Whilst it is the dress of choice of some Iranian women, you are not required to wear a chador except when visiting certain mosques at certain times. You will be loaned a chador when necessary. Don’t worry if you’re unsure of how to wear it, the women will guide you.

I was handed this bedsheet look-a-like chador at the entrance of the mosque. Most women wear a more upscale, black chador.

MAKE-UP

You will see Iranian women made up beautifully. Make-up is an important part of their style, primarily in big cities. You could join in on the trend and show up at a fast food joint with an extreme cat eye (because there is -at least officially- no party scene in Iran so where else would you show off your face art?) I recommend leaving the heavy make up and flashy lipstick to the local girls who have limited opportunities to publicly “strut their stuff”. Besides, too much make- up can be reason enough to be stopped by the morality police.

It’s actually quite simple to dress correctly in Iran as a traveller. Wear your regular, somewhat conservative every day clothes topped off with a midi jacket. Cover your hair, double check the mirror that you’re figure is concealed et voilà, you’re ready to step outside. Iranian women are generally incredibly well dressed and pull off sophisticated, stylish looks, which you probably won’t be able to mirror, wearing your traveler’s garment. And that’s ok.

However, if you’d like to make an attempt to do so, check out these gorgeous bloggers for inspiration. Note that they are not Persian but many of their outfits would be appropriate to wear in Iran.

Ruba Zai, on Instagram @hijabhills

Summer Albarcha, on Instagram @summeralbarcha

Maryam of sincerelymaryam, on Instagram @sincerelymaryam

Have you ever scratched your head while packing, not knowing exactly which clothes bring? What destination(s) were you packing for?

The post “What to wear in Iran” first appeared on Travel Cake.

May 26, 2016
How living in Bali ruined me

I know the title sounds a little dramatic but hear me out…

After having lived a year in Bali we were sure a change of scenery would do us good. Word around the net was, Ecuador and Colombia were the new buzzing hot spots, perfect for digital nomads like us. So we crossed the globe in search of our new nomadic headquarters. We set foot in South America psyched up and convinced we would find ‘the one’. That one town that would feel like home. The one boasting everything a digital nomad could ever dream of: fast internet, an affordable cost of living, a moderate climate, an effortless visa policy and an amicable general atmosphere. Preferably set in a natural environment and with a variety of great eats. Talk about high standards…

stunning natural scenery

Once in South America, we couldn’t help but compare every potential living spot to our old (romanticised) lives in Bali. We’d always find something that wasn’t quite right; too cold, too urban, too expensive, too loud, too far from civilisation, too much this, not enough that… We didn’t fully realise it then, but we were actually on the look out for a second Bali. A second Ubud to be more precise.

We loved this gem in Ecuador but… there was a but.

Ecuador and Colombia are both absolutely stunning countries with mind blowing and incredibly diverse nature, friendly people, lots of exciting activities, great internet, endless sunshine, top notch food, good vibes… Yet we couldn’t see ourselves living in any of the towns and cities we visited. What was going on? I usually find a great deal of places I’d love to live in during my travels. I puzzled over the issue and finally understood what was going on. There was positively nothing wrong with these places, they just weren’t Ubud.

searching for a home in Ecuador

It was as though we had just gotten through a break up and were still hung up on our ex-love. Still thinking about her, comparing every new encounter to her, secretly wishing we were still with her… So the big question arose: do you return to your old love or do you push through until you’ve completely forgotten about her?

In any other situation, I would opt for the latter, no questions asked. But these were different circumstances; we didn’t leave Bali because we got bored of her or because we needed a break but rather for practical reasons. You could say, we never really broke up. Be it as it may, Bali was still in our heads and in our hearts. We were not done with her.

in Bali somewhere along the road

That is why we decided to move back to Ubud! Back to our old lives, with a new addition. Though our situation, goals and expectations are different this time around, it feels like we’ve landed exactly where we need to be. However, I can’t help but wonder, is this it? Will I never be able to live anywhere else because I’ve idealised life in Bali? Has the island ruined me for other places?

To be continued…

The post “how living in Bali ruined me” first appeared on Travel Cake.

Is there a place you can’t help but compare all the others too?

May 12, 2016
Where to Travel in Iran – our two week itinerary

The moment we entered Iran, we immediately knew: two weeks is way too little time to visit this vast, fascinating country! Unfortunately we can’t always take month-long vacations, so we figured: two weeks is better than nothing! Although it meant we’d have to make some tough decisions regarding the places we’d visit. Considering we were traveling in autumn, the southern loop seemed like the obvious choice. It also happens to be where the country’s highlights are situated.

This is where we spent our 2 weeks in Persia…

TEHRAN – 1 Day

The first thing we did the morning we landed in Teheran was to book a domestic flight South. We aimed to get out of the capital as soon as possible. Now I’m not saying there is nothing interesting to see or do in Tehran but we figured there’d be more intriguing places to visit. Besides, we arrived during Ashura, Iran’s most important religious holiday which meant that the entire city was practically deserted. We managed to reserve seats on a flight that evening, leaving us with a full day to fill in Tehran. Since everything was closed, we spent the day drinking tea and mindlessly strolling down the quiet empty streets of an otherwise buzzing city.

prayers during Ashura

SHIRAZ – 2 Days

Just a short flight later, we arrived in Shiraz also known as the heart of Persian culture. “Shiraz”, that name… I imagined refined art, sophisticated poetry, elegant gardens, nightingales, romance and red wine. And that’s exactly what it was, well except for the wine since alcohol is illegal in Iran nowadays. Once again, due to the festivities of Ashura, we were limited in options of things to do. We mostly wandered around town, visited some iconic mosques, browsed the colourful bazar and shared some incredible meals with newfound local friends. We may have missed some of the city’s highlights but we experienced and learned about the fascinating religious holiday of Ashura, which I won’t go into further detail right now. It would need so much explaining it would have to be a post on its own.

ornate mosques in abundance

with surprising interior design

discovering the sweet stuff in the bazar

almost ripe oranges in the mosque’s court garden

the leaning tower of Shiraz

at one of our many tea breaks

PERSEPOLIS – NAQSH E ROSTAM & NAQSH E RAJAB – 1 Day

As a day trip from Shiraz, we chartered a taxi to another “mystical sounding” spot: Persepolis. I regret thinking we’d learn all there is to know about Persepolis from our guidebook and stories online. Reading about the ancient site is a good start but having a live guide enthusiastically telling stories, pointing out important details and explaining the symbolism on site, would have added value… Nonetheless, guide or no, walking amongst the ruins will spark your imagination.

the entrance of Persepolis

ruins that help you imagine what once was a grand majestic city.

After visiting Persepolis, we drove to Naqsh-e-Rostam & Naqsh-e-Rajab for a quick view of the majestic rock tombs. Impressive! Most taxi drivers or tours will advise you to add “Pasargadae” to your day trip. However, we skipped it and I must say, looking at fellow travellers’ pictures, we made the right decision. Though I’ve only heard good reviews from visitors of Pasargadae, whether you should go or not really depends on your interests and on how many ruins you can handle in one day.

rock tombs Naqsh e Rajab

YAZD – 2 Days

From Shiraz we took a nightbus to Yazd, an enchanting mud-brick desert city. My favourite city in Iran- I think. What made me love Yazd so much was the fact that it is so astonishingly different from any other city I had ever seen. Serene, quiet and entirely made of mud buldings… Come on! According to UNESCO, Yazd’s old town is the oldest city on earth. Can you imagine that?! Standing on the city’s rooftops, you get fairytale-like views over the brown city. Getting lost in Yazd felt truly magical.

exploring the streets of Yazd

sunset view from one of the many rooftops

tea time accompanied by Yazd’s signature sweets

KHARANAQ- MEYBOD – CHAK CHAK – 1 Day

In Yazd we met a driver with whom we arranged a day trip to the surrounding sites. Out of the three stops, despite the beautiful surroundings, we found the pilgrimage site of Chak Chak to be the least interesting to us visitors.

Chak Chak, Zoroastrian pilgrimage site

The 1800-year-old mud castle of Meybod (Narin Castle) was much more to our liking. I’m still puzzled about how a mud castle can be in such good shape after almost 2000 years of existence, surviving invasions, wars, modern changes… WOW!

Following a tasty lunch in a historic caravanserai -where strangely enough we were the only people- we headed to the mud-brick village of Kharanaq. This was by far the highlight of our day. Though I’m sure it’s not for everyone, we just loved “Indiana Jones-ing” in the crumbling, virtually deserted village.

lunch in a caravanserai

Karanaq

rooftops that made us feel like we had landed on another planet

pomegranates surrounding Kharanaq

GARMEH – 2 Days

Getting from Yazd to Garmeh was somewhat challenging but we made it! I’ve already raved about our stay in the desert oasis of Garmeh, it’s still easily one of my best travel experiences so far!

palm trees in the desert

Garmeh, desert oasis of my dreams

MESR – 2 Days

Because Garmeh was such a big hit, we extended our stay in the desert and headed to another, even more remote desert settlement: Mesr. We drove out with the new friends we’d made in Garmeh and had another remarkable stay in the desert! This time around there was dune bashing at sunset, stargazing, chasing renegade camels and desert sand hikes. Iv’e said it before and I’ll say it again: I love the desert!

sand dunes as far as the eye can see

our guesthouse in the middle of nowhere

ESFAHAN – 2 Days

The grandeur of Esfahan left us standing in awe. This is where you’ll find Iran’s most impressive, majestic architecture. You’ll be surrounded by sharply dressed youths having a good time out, families spending time together in parks and lovers dating somewhat publicly… Esfahan is a modern and vibrant city standing in strong contrast with more conservative places like Yazd.

Esfahan

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan

family day on the river banks

ABYANEH – 1 Day

Since we couldn’t find public transportation to the ancient village of Abyaneh, we hitchhiked there. Catching a ride was quite easy. Most people seem to visit Abyaneh as a day trip from Kashan but we figured we might as well spend the night. Apparently we were the only ones with that idea. Though this village is definitely not a “must-see”, we were thrilled to get a glimpse of a different Iran.

Irregular bus service to Abyaneh

streets of Abyaneh

All the locals we encountered in Abyaneh were elderly people dressed in a particular style. They looked very different from the people we had seen throughout the rest of the country.

KASHAN – 2 Days

Kashan, another place I was enamoured with. Whether it was due to the -once again- exceptional rooftops, our charming guesthouse, the abundant rose water, the “secret” gardens, the grand traditional houses or the lively bazars, I don’t know. Kashan really got under my skin.

just can’t get enough of these rooftops!

farmland hidden inside an old fortress in Kashan

traditional house

From Kashan it was a short ride to the end point of our trip: the international airport of Tehran. As you can see, we spent about two days in each destination. Because many of the attractions were closed due to the festivities of Ashura, this was just enough time not to feel rushed. We could have easily spent more time in each of the spots mentioned above and would have loved to visit other parts of the country. That’s why we promised ourselves there would be a next time! But in the end, the beauty of Iran lies, more than its sights or scenery, in its people. So any amount of time spent in the country is enough to at least get a taste of the Persian hospitality.

Have you been to Iran? Would you consider going?

The post “Where to travel in Iran- our two week itinerary” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 1, 2016
2015 Travel Summary

Here we are again, at the beginning of a new year, wondering where time went. Looking back at the past twelve months, thinking how we could have done things better, what is still missing in our lives and wondering where the next 52 weeks will take us. For me, the past year was one full of challenges, enormous changes and tremendous mental growth.

Though 2015 wasn’t as much of a travel whirlwind as 2013 or 2014, it was an intense travel year to say the least. I moved to Latin America, making it the 5th continent I’ve lived in. I finally revisited the USA and Colombia. Then I moved again, this time back to Ghent, my favourite city on earth. I did it all while growing a tiny human. Kind of absurd, now that I think of it.

This was travel in 2015, the year of big changes…

ECUADOR

Quito

I started the year in Quito with the mission to check out whether or not Ecuador was the country where we’d settle in next. Though Quito lacks impressive tourist attractions, I grew very fond of it. I’m not really sure why, but living in Quito turned out to be quite enjoyable.

photo shoot in the historic centre of Quito

one of the most impressive architectures of Quito: la catherdral.

Baños

The capital of adventure sports in Ecuador. Charming in a touristy way… I wasn’t able to partake in any of the adventure sports due to the pregnancy so I experienced the town differently than I normally would. I’d ask myself: “would the average 75-year-old engage in this activity?” If the answer was positive, that meant a “GO” for me. Good thing that -in my mind- the average 75-year-old would have no problem mountain biking down a narrow wining road alongside massive speeding trucks… *ahum*

Devil’s cauldron reached by mountain bike in Baños

approved activity

Cuenca

If it wasn’t for a small incident that changed our entire professional plans, I would probably be writing this post from our house in Cuenca. We found the city to be very pleasant and full of business potential. I was willing to oversee the ever fluctuating weather and settle down in the cobble stone city. But as I said, some issues came up which helped us realise Cuenca was not the place for us to live in. At least not in that moment in time.

colonial architecture in Cuenca

every weekend in Ecuador, there seems to be a parade of some sort…

Vilcabamba

Apparently many people live to be 100 years and longer in this small town nestled in what is nicknamed “the valley of longevity”… There seems to be something about the source water and the fresh air that contributes to a long and healthy life. Now this was a gorgeous piece of paradise! Rolling hills, flowers, fruits, birds and butterflies in abundance. A handful of Westerners have set up shop in this town and opened a few yoga and meditation centres, juice bars and organic restaurants. It’s also the place to be for ayahuasca cleansing ceremonies. We were keen to settle down in Vilcabamba but unfortunately the remoteness of the town also meant the internet wasn’t as reliable as it should be for digital nomads. So we were left with no other choice than to leave the little paradise.

our guesthouse in the valley of longevity

Montañita

Or ‘party central’. Cheap cocktails, good surf, tasty street food, loud pounding beats and killer sunsets. I could imagine myself twisting my hair into dreadlocks in front of a reggae shack, ambling barefooted through the sandy streets and partying till sunrise… 10 years ago! That would have pretty much summed up my dream life. Today, I actually had to retain myself not to complain about the loud (party) noise just outside my window at night! Yikes, it’s official, I’m no longer in my 20’s… Montañita helped me realise just how much I’ve grown/changed. And though I did enjoy some elements of it, places like Montañita are just not my scene anymore.

street breakfast

the way a surf beach town should be; quirky and colourful

sunset in Montañita

Puerto Cayo

A tiny dot on the map. We spent most of our time in Ecuador living and working in this sleepy fishing village. When I say sleepy, I mean really sleepy. An interesting experience, one I would never have guessed I’d be living. If you’ve missed it, read about our life in Puerto Cayo.

sleepy Puerto Cayo

Mindo

My favourite spot in Ecuador. We spent most of our time there eating delicious food, admiring colourful hummingbirds, enjoying the lush greenery and gorgeous waterfalls. Catch up on our time in Mindo lindo.

Greener than green in Mindo

Otavalo and surrounding villages

What I like most about Ecuador is its authenticity, especially in the smaller towns and villages. The people, the culture, the widely worn traditional dress; all incredibly different from what I know. The scenery throughout the country is simply stunning and so exceptionally diverse. Otavalo features one of Ecuador’s largest indigenous markets and since it was our last stop before heading home, I did some serious “no restraints”-shopping.

the colours in Ecuador are most vibrant

crater lakes in abundance

getting some local grub in Otavalo

COLOMBIA

Bogotá

A Drupal conference in Colombia lured us into the country. I had been to the Colombian capital before and just like the first time, I wasn’t crazy about Bogotá. La Candelaria, the old part of town, definitely has some charm but the rest of the city is not my cup of tea. To me the best part of being in Bogotá was the reunion with my local friends after 10 years apart. I also loved discovering some of Bogota’s quirks.

in the old centre

admiring the works one of my favourite artists, Botero

Medellín and surroundings

Such a cool and vibrant city! It’s hard to believe what a hot mess it was just 25 years ago. Medellín has really cleaned up well, turning the worst parts of the city into the best! The fantastic free walking tour by “Real City Tours” helped us understand the city and its history. We spent a few weeks in Medellín working, living and discovering the different neighbourhoods. After a hard week at work, we’d visit some of the surrounding villages and attractions.

Botero sculpture in front of the ‘Uribe palace of culture’ in downtown Medellin, the latter designed by a Flemish architect

in Guatape, daytrip from Medellin

Salento

A travel dream came true the moment we boarded the bus to Salento. The town itself was quaint but it was the Cocora valley that had been peaking on my travel wish list for a while. The hike was everything I expected it to be and more. I had accidentally left my camera’s charger in Ecuador so I could only take a few pictures. Though I was bummed, this major screw up allowed me to really be in the now and take it all in.

hiking in the marvellous Cocora valley

couldn’t get enough of these views

USA

Atlanta

Though this was just a short jaunt on the way to our next destination, I was delighted to be back in the States after 11 years! I hit up some of my favourite American stores, drank sweet tea and had some doughnuts and fried chicken. I know this sounds incredibly cliché -and it is- but it’s what I was craving every time I thought of the USA. Unfortunately I didn’t have enough time to dig deeper and discover the ins and outs of Atlanta. Maybe next time?

BELGIUM

Ghent

We came back to Belgium to be close to family and friends when the baby would make her appearance. I was waggling to my not so exciting desk job every day and getting ready for her arrival every spare minute I had. So nothing exotic here. Yet I was psyched to be living in Ghent again. I had a blast spending time with said family and friends as well as reconnecting with the city. As I’ve mentioned before in my “announcement post” I’ve often found myself comparing the journey to and through parenthood to a crazy travel adventure. That’s definitely what it has felt like… The craziest adventure so far.

Ghent by night

reunited with friends. Picture by Sofie Luyten

NETHERLANDS

Friesland

If someone had told me a few years ago that I would be going to Friesland at least once every year, I would have never believed it. But that’s exactly what has happened over the past two years and will most likely continue to do so in the future. This visit however, wasn’t so much of a touristy one. We drove all the way to northern Holland to witness the wedding of our great Frisian friends. A long drive worth taking!

cosy winter wedding in the Frisian countryside. Congrats to our dear friends!

So you see, 2015 wasn’t the year of endless destinations but it was full of movement!

So what’s in store for 2016? Well, that’s the favourite part of my life: I don’t know yet! Things will inevitably be different now that there is a kid in the picture but pretty much everything still seems possible. I may not know exactly what 2016 will bring but I can already tell you this much;

There is another big move coming up!

When and where? Find out soon through Travel Cake’s Facebook Page or Instagram!

How was your travel year? Happy about the places you visited?

The post “2015 Travel Summary” first appeared on Travel Cake.

January 11, 2016
100 Essential Travel Experiences, Part VI

As a tribute to carefree traveling, I’ve been listing my most memorable travel experiences so far. You can read part 1, part 2, part 3 , part 4 and part 5 in the previous posts.

Without further ado, here are, in no particular order, the last 15 most memorable travel experiences:

15. Shopping and eating in indigenous markets in Ecuador

For a major “market fan” like me, the Ecuadorian indigenous markets were a special treat. They’re loud and bustling with people from various Andean tribes gathering to buy and sell all kinds of goods. Handicrafts, textile, produce, livestock and everything in between. Beside the shopping possibilities, these markets offer the visitor a great opportunity to sample the local staples.

14. Working as a butcher in Muscat, Oman

Ummmm… Sometimes pictures say more than words.

13. Spending a few nights in a refugee camp

Dheisheh Refugee Camp

We spent a few nights in a refugee camp during our visit to Palestine. Unlike in the other refugee camps I’ve seen over the years, the refugees here had cement housing instead of tents which reminded us of how long the situation has been going on. Travel is not just about the pretty sights and the adventurous bus rides, it’s also about trying to understand the world.

12. Hanging out in the meadows of the desolate Solovetsky Islands in Russia

I loved everything about my stay on the small island group in northern Russia; the desolation, the scenery, the midnight sun… Click on th title to read what struck me in Russia

11. Party, beach and sunshine on Isla Margarita, Venezuela

Isla Margarita… Yes, it is as exotic and fun as it sounds! An absolute tourist mecca but entertaining nonetheless. Being only 20 years old, I felt proud to have flown to South America on my own dime and I was eager to party!

10. Climbing holy mount Agung at night to see the sunrise

Our group of 5 were the only people climbing the volcano that night. The hike was so long and strenuous, I cried on the way down. Cried. Like a baby. But as with everything in the world of travel, the toughest experiences are the ones you remember and cherish the most.

9. Walking through the cobbled streets of Berat, Albania

Albania is now on my list of favourite destinations. Partly thanks to the lovely town of Berat where I spent hours on end strolling through the cobbled streets. Click on the title to read why I love Berat.

8. Venturing solo through East-Timor

East-Timor was quite tough to travel in, but I truly loved being there. I was thrilled to be traveling solo in one of the most difficult countries to travel through. I fell for its ruggedness and its authenticity. Click one the title to read more about my thoughts on Timor-Leste.

Reading on the East Timorese beach…

7. Watching the sky fill up with hot air balloons in Cappadocia

I traveled to Turkey on a tight budget so taking a ride in the hot air balloon was not an option for me. However, watching hundreds of balloons soar through the morning sky with a new friend was one of the highlights of my trip. Click on the title to read more about traveling to Cappadocia on a budget.

6. New Year’s eve in Rantepao, Sulawesi

Spending NYE in one of the capital towns of Sulawesi, Indonesia was pure madness, to say the very least. With everyone -including 4-year-olds- randomly shooting off fireworks everywhere, it seemed like we had landed in a ‘post apocalyptic war zone’. Think explosions, smoke, loud music, hundreds of scooters racing around… Words, pictures or video’s couldn’t possibly convey what it was like. A real life Indonesian version of ‘Mad Max’, perhaps..

5. Me-time on the pebbled beach of Sveti Stefan in Montenegro

Montenegro was one of the best travel surprises. I found a deserted beach on Sveti Stefan, where I feasted on my picnic, bathed in the cool water and caught some rays while listening to music! Click on the title to read about my visit to Kotor and surroundings

4. Integrating in the Congolese village life

This one, I’ve been doing every so often while visiting family in DRC. I switch up my Western clothes for local wear and get involved in the daily village life.

3. Meeting sea gypsies in Borneo

Just off the island of Sabah, there are small settlements of “sea gypsies” living on their own terms, not necessarily by choice but by obligation as they are refugees and have no legal documents to enter Malaysia. Meeting these people and learning about their life on the sea left a deep impression on me, one I hope to share with you on this blog one day.

2. Watching the sun go down on African “booze cruises”

Imagine gazing at this view while floating on a small boat. A tropical breeze stroking your sunkissed cheecks, slightly hazed from the cool beers; all you can think about is how incredibly beautiful mother nature is…

1. Meeting incredible people and making friendships along the way

You may only spend a few days with new friends made on the road, but sometimes those few days or hours are enough for a lifelong connection and a treasure chest full of lasting memories!

Though the list goes on, the experiences listed here are the ones I cherish most. You may have noticed that for me, it’s not about the tourist attractions nor is it about the payed activities. To me, it’s about getting out of your comfort zone, embracing the “out of the ordinary”. I hope you enjoyed tagging along memory lane!

If you’ve missed it, read up on part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4 and part 5.

What’s one of your most memorable travel experiences?

The post “100 Essential Travel Experiences, Part VI” first appeared on Travel Cake.

December 21, 2015
100 Essential Travel Experiences, Part V

As a tribute to carefree traveling, I’m listing my most memorable travel experiences so far. You can read part 1, part 2, part 3 and part 4 in the previous posts.

Without further ado, here are the next 15 travel experiences in no particular order:

30. Bicycling on Nicaragua’s Isla de Ometeppe

The Nicaraguan island of Ometepe boasts two volcanic peaks rising from the lake, surrounded by lush greenery. Riding a bicycle crossed the island was simply exhilarating; smelling the colourful tropical flowers, riding through fields of butterflies and ending with a cooling dip in a natural pool.

29. Taking natural mud baths

I’m always up for a “natural mud bath”! It seems to be a reoccurring theme recently. I’ve lathered myself with mud in Turkey, Israel and Colombia so far. Where will my next natural mud bath be?

28. Whisky tasting in Scotland

After having discovered the delicate taste of fine whisky a few years ago, Scotland jumped to the top of my travel wish list. I made it my mission to learn about the different types of Whisky and to sample as many as I possibly could without getting wasted.

27. Bribing my way crossed an African border

I’d like to go back to that country one day, so maybe I should stay vague on this one… Why is it part of my top travel experiences? Because it’s a reminder of how your sense of morality is tied to your culture and situation. As much as corruption pisses me off and as much as I would plead for it to disappear from this world, I gave in that time in Africa as it seemed as though I had no other realistic options. This is one of the many ways travel broadens your world views and makes you reconsider your truths.

26. Being invited to and attending a funeral in Sulawesi

“Good morning m’am, would you like to go to a funeral?” was the unusual way I was greeted in Sulawesi, Indonesia. “Sure”, I replied. Click on the title to read about death rituals and funerals in Tana Toraja.

25. Hawker stall madness in Singapore

What I remember most about Singapore is how much and how well I ate! I spent hours in hawker stalls ordering a plethora of dishes from different vendors, comparing the same dish by different cooks and trying foods that looked unfamiliar. Blue rice, jiggly soup, floating fish heads… My love for Southeast Asian street food was born.

24. “Port Tasting”- road trip in the Douro Valley

Armed with an old-school road map and a box of Portuguese tarts we tackled the wining roads of the Douro Valley in search of the perfect Port wine. Click on the title to read about our short getaway in Portugal.

23. Partying on Tel Aviv’s rooftops

I probably shouldn’t generalise but what the heck; Israelis know how to party! I found that out in Tel Aviv, where we were invited to one party after the other, each time in cool locations like a hidden beach shack, a secret basement, the desert or a boat at sea. My favourites where the rooftop parties.

22. Staying in a luxury lodge in Africa

One of the tips I give people travelling in African countries for more than three weeks, is to splurge at least once on their stay in a luxury lodge. Our top notch lodge in Uganda had an infinity pool with views on the national park. While sipping from our cool beers on our deck, we could spot troops of elephants traversing the plains. WOW!

21. Haggling in markets all over the world

If you ask me, markets are the beating heart of every country and the best school to learn the art of haggling. Going to the local market is what I look forward to most prior a trip.

20. Crossing Zanzibar by motorcycle

With our rented motorcycle we slowly cruised the spice island, stopping in small villages and empty white sand beaches. Pictured here is the fish market in Stone Town. Click on the title to read more about Stone Town.

19. Receiving blessings from holy men/women

No matter the religion or philosophy, I never refuse a blessing. I feel as though the many blessings I’ve received from ‘holy men and women’ throughout the years, have really had their effect.

18. Cooling down in an Iranian desert oasis

Staying in an Iranian desert oasis is exactly as exotic and enchanting as you would imagine. Click on the title to read about my stay in Garmeh, the desert oasis of my dreams.

17. Spending lazy days in love on a South Indian beach

Or any beach for that matter…

16. Taking overnight trains in Zimbabwe

My friend and I were just 18-19 years old and the only tourists on the rusty Zimbabwean trains to Bulawayo and Victoria falls. Two nocturnal journeys talking to local youths, binging on snacks, laughing and doing everything in our power not to go to the extremely unhygienic toilets. Photo by Daryle Dickens

Next, the last 15 items on the list! Curious about Part 1, Part 2 , Part 3 or Part 4 of this list? This series will be continued every other Thursday!

The post “100 Essential Travel Experiences, part IV” first appeared on Travel Cake.

November 19, 2015
100 Essential Travel Experiences, Part IV

As a tribute to carefree traveling, I’m listing my most memorable travel experiences so far. You can read part 1, part 2 and part 3 in the previous posts.

Without further ado, here are the next 15 travel experiences in no particular order:

45. Wild camping in Liechtenstein’s Alps

Unlike in most European countries, wild camping is legal in Lichtenstein. You can walk into the Alps and pitch your tent wherever you want to, away from campsites. Perfect for experiencing the whole “man vs nature” thing…

44. Visiting the cotton castle in Pamukale, Turkey

The cotton castle is just stunning at dawn. Besides, getting there before the crowds is key to this experience! Note that swimming in the main pools is no longer permitted.

You can see why this rock formation is nicknamed cotton castle. In Pamukkale, Turkey.

43. Celebrating Hogmanay in Edinburgh

New Year’s Eve in Edinburgh is a basically a crazy street party with concerts, fireworks, dj’s and dancing in the centre of the city. A fun and casual way to celebrate the new year. Click on the title to read about celebrating Hogmanay in Edinburgh.

42. Climbing an active volcano with streaming lava

The sole’s of my shoes melted off as I carefully stepped on the barely solid lava rocks. I could see and hear the boiling lava streaming right under my feet. I can’t say I felt comfortable on volcano Pacaya in Guatemala.

41. Floating on the Mekong and sipping on white coffee in Vietnam

40. Being spiritually overwhelmed in Jerusalem

Religious or not, witnessing thousands of pilgrims and locals alike sing hand in hand, burst into tears and pray rigorously at the religious sites of Jerusalem, is touching on a deep spiritual level. I too ended up saying a prayer for peace by the Wailing Wall.

39. Bathing in the natural hot springs and waterfalls of Dominica

The tiny island of Dominica has so many exciting nooks with waterfalls, hot springs and swimming holes. Nature on this Caribbean island is so lush and untamed, you feel like a pathfinder. WOW!

I went in for a dip every occasion I got!

38. Connecting with kids in Africa

Kids in Africa LOVE to see visitors passing through their village. Their curiosity leads them to surround you, laugh, sing, dance and call you names (mostly the local slang for ‘white person’ even if, like me, you’re not really white). Connecting with these kids is something you should experience for yourself to know how heartwarming it can be. Picture taken in Rwanda.

37. Learning to cook (and eat) traditional Greek food from a local

When I was in Athens I learned to cook some Greek comfort food. A new world opened up! Click on the title to read about my cooking class in Athens.

36. Standing face to face with wild Orangutans in Sabah

Ok, I cheated a bit; there was a viewing platform… But that doesn’t take away from the wonder of seeing our wild “cousins” swinging from branch to branch. I’m not a particularly big fan of animals yet I stared at the baby orangutans in the rehabilitation centre for at least an hour. Click on the title to read about my visit to Sabah.

35. Shamelessly doing every tourist cliché in Paris

I’ve been to Paris several times and the French culture is quite close to mine (Belgian) but I just had to do it once: act like a cliché tourist in Paris! Barret, Eiffel tower, baguette, cheese, wine, macaroons and a long stroll along the Seine. Cliché or not, I loved it!

34. Swimming in Oman’s sinkhole and climbing around its wadi’s

There are so many reasons to love Oman but what I enjoyed most were the natural pools and wadi’s. I felt so small climbing over rocks and wading in the desert valley pools. Click on the title to read about my road trip through Oman.

33. Visiting the golden temples in Myanmar

When I think of Myanmar, I think of gold. Not even in Dubai or Saudi Arabia did I see as much gold as I did in Myanmar. The Shwedagon Pagoda, pictured here, took the cake. Click on the title to read about the other thing there is in abundance in Myanmar: Buddha depictions.

32. Roadtripping throuh South Morocco

South Morocco is another fantastic place to take a road trip. Fields of roses, ancient towns, traditional villages, interesting desert landscapes and warm welcoming inhabitants, are just a few things you find on the way.

31. Eating strange foods along the way

Little shacks like this, don’t scare me. In my experience, they often serve something interesting to taste. Besides, when hunger strikes…

I love trying all kinds of local foods. The weird and the ugly included. Usually, that translates into unusual meats. So far I’ve tried rat, dog, turtle, camel, grasshoppers, duck embryo, crocodile, toad, hippopotamus, smoked monkey, guinea pig… I think this subject may need a post of its own.

Continue reading part 5 and part 6! Curious about Part 1, Part 2 or Part 3 of this list?

The post “100 Essential Travel Experiences, part IV” first appeared on Travel Cake.

November 6, 2015