Figuring out my wardrobe for my trip to Iran turned out to be a very interesting part of the travel planning. How do you dress in a country where showing your hair in public is illegal? Despite the fact that I had conducted some serious research, I was still feeling insecure about the outfits bulking up my backpack. I crossed my fingers, hoping that my outfits were descent enough and figured I could always buy a more appropriate attire if it wasn’t the case.
I traveled in Iran at the end of autumn and with temperatures dropping significantly, it didn’t feel unnatural covering myself up. You may have a different experience if traveling to Iran during spring or summer.
Enjoying the Iranian autumn scenery
Here’s a short summary of what to wear in Iran…
MEN
As it so often is, the dress code for men is simple as can be. You could sum it up in just a few words: everyday street wear. Leave your shorts and flip flops at home and you’re basically good to go. We found long-sleeved, cotton or linen shirts to be the perfect attire for men. You can roll up the sleeves on hot days and it makes you look relatively classy. Iranian men dress sharp and take good care of their appearances, you’ll fit right in.
when it comes to dressing culturally appropriate, men always have it easier
Let’s move on the the more complex part of the equation:
WOMEN
For women it’s a bit more of an adjustment.
HEADSCARF
Or hijab. When in public, you are obliged by law to cover your hair at all times. So yes, in the hotel lobby and in the restaurant but no, not in your room or at a friend’s house. There is no restriction on how colourful your hijab can be, anything goes. Though most women wear somewhat sober colours; pastels, neutrals or dark scarves with a subtle print or none at all. As a noob, avoid silk headscarves as they tend to slide off your hair very easily. A cotton based scarf will do the trick for us “hijab amateurs”.
wearing loosely wrapped headscarf. I quite enjoyed not having to brush my hair every day
Note: If you look at the Iranian women in cities, you’ll see plenty wearing their scarves as far back as possible, showing off a big part of their hair. By doing so, the majority of them are making a political statement and have taken on the risk of being “scolded” by the morality police (yes, the morality police is real in Iran). Though visitors are not nearly as harshly judged as local women, I’d advise you to comply to the rules and let your hijab cover most of your hair. That being said, it’s totally fine to have a few locks peeking from your headscarf.
MANTEAU
A manteau is a light overcoat which covers your clothing. Manteaus come in a wide variety of shapes and colours but serve the same purpose: hiding your curves. You could buy your manteau in Iran however your everyday coat from home should be could enough. Think ‘trench coat’, ‘parka’ or ‘cloak’. You can also get away with a lengthy oversized sweater. As long as it’s not figure hugging and has a minimal length of just below your ‘derrière’. It feels quite awkward to keep on your jacket while sitting at an indoor restaurant table but you get used to it. Sort of.
my old trusty parka as a manteaubaggy pants and oversized lengthy sweater revealing zero curves
Underneath your manteau, you can wear whatever you want since the manteau stays on in public.
Just make sure that:
– You cover your legs down to the ankle. A loose fitting maxi dress or skirt should do the trick.
– You cover your neckline, arms and body.
Maxi skirt with a knee length cardigan on top.
Tight jeans seem to be accepted and widely worn. Cover up those thighs though!
SHOES AND ACCESSORIES
Open-toed sandals are tolerated though you might feel a little “naked” wearing them. A more comfortable choice would be a flat shoe – a ballerina or a sneaker. Consider a pair of solid flat boots during the colder seasons.
Because I had no other boots in my collection and refused to purchase a new pair solely for this trip -meet a woman who owns just 3 pairs of shoes- I ended up wearing heeled boots on cold days. I definitely stood out in them which made me feel uncomfortable. One guy even told me this was the snobby style for rich girls in the city. I couldn’t in the slightest relate to that. So maybe leave your heels at home.
In terms of accessories, wear what you usually would during any other trip. What works best for me is to keep it minimal and add some local bling along the way.
rich girl heels and a backpack with Persian design, gifted by a local friend
CHADOR
A chador is a large piece of fabric that covers your entire body head to toe. Whilst it is the dress of choice of some Iranian women, you are not required to wear a chador except when visiting certain mosques at certain times. You will be loaned a chador when necessary. Don’t worry if you’re unsure of how to wear it, the women will guide you.
I was handed this bedsheet look-a-like chador at the entrance of the mosque. Most women wear a more upscale, black chador.
MAKE-UP
You will see Iranian women made up beautifully. Make-up is an important part of their style, primarily in big cities. You could join in on the trend and show up at a fast food joint with an extreme cat eye (because there is -at least officially- no party scene in Iran so where else would you show off your face art?) I recommend leaving the heavy make up and flashy lipstick to the local girls who have limited opportunities to publicly “strut their stuff”. Besides, too much make- up can be reason enough to be stopped by the morality police.
It’s actually quite simple to dress correctly in Iran as a traveller. Wear your regular, somewhat conservative every day clothes topped off with a midi jacket. Cover your hair, double check the mirror that you’re figure is concealed et voilà, you’re ready to step outside. Iranian women are generally incredibly well dressed and pull off sophisticated, stylish looks, which you probably won’t be able to mirror, wearing your traveler’s garment. And that’s ok.
However, if you’d like to make an attempt to do so, check out these gorgeous bloggers for inspiration. Note that they are not Persian but many of their outfits would be appropriate to wear in Iran.
The moment we entered Iran, we immediately knew: two weeks is way too little time to visit this vast, fascinating country! Unfortunately we can’t always take month-long vacations, so we figured: two weeks is better than nothing! Although it meant we’d have to make some tough decisions regarding the places we’d visit. Considering we were traveling in autumn, the southern loop seemed like the obvious choice. It also happens to be where the country’s highlights are situated.
This is where we spent our 2 weeks in Persia…
TEHRAN – 1 Day
The first thing we did the morning we landed in Teheran was to book a domestic flight South. We aimed to get out of the capital as soon as possible. Now I’m not saying there is nothing interesting to see or do in Tehran but we figured there’d be more intriguing places to visit. Besides, we arrived during Ashura, Iran’s most important religious holiday which meant that the entire city was practically deserted. We managed to reserve seats on a flight that evening, leaving us with a full day to fill in Tehran. Since everything was closed, we spent the day drinking tea and mindlessly strolling down the quiet empty streets of an otherwise buzzing city.
prayers during Ashura
SHIRAZ – 2 Days
Just a short flight later, we arrived in Shiraz also known as the heart of Persian culture. “Shiraz”, that name… I imagined refined art, sophisticated poetry, elegant gardens, nightingales, romance and red wine. And that’s exactly what it was, well except for the wine since alcohol is illegal in Iran nowadays. Once again, due to the festivities of Ashura, we were limited in options of things to do. We mostly wandered around town, visited some iconic mosques, browsed the colourful bazar and shared some incredible meals with newfound local friends. We may have missed some of the city’s highlights but we experienced and learned about the fascinating religious holiday of Ashura, which I won’t go into further detail right now. It would need so much explaining it would have to be a post on its own.
ornate mosques in abundancewith surprising interior designdiscovering the sweet stuff in the bazaralmost ripe oranges in the mosque’s court gardenthe leaning tower of Shirazat one of our many tea breaks
PERSEPOLIS – NAQSH E ROSTAM & NAQSH E RAJAB – 1 Day
As a day trip from Shiraz, we chartered a taxi to another “mystical sounding” spot: Persepolis. I regret thinking we’d learn all there is to know about Persepolis from our guidebook and stories online. Reading about the ancient site is a good start but having a live guide enthusiastically telling stories, pointing out important details and explaining the symbolism on site, would have added value… Nonetheless, guide or no, walking amongst the ruins will spark your imagination.
the entrance of Persepolisruins that help you imagine what once was a grand majestic city.
After visiting Persepolis, we drove to Naqsh-e-Rostam & Naqsh-e-Rajab for a quick view of the majestic rock tombs. Impressive! Most taxi drivers or tours will advise you to add “Pasargadae” to your day trip. However, we skipped it and I must say, looking at fellow travellers’ pictures, we made the right decision. Though I’ve only heard good reviews from visitors of Pasargadae, whether you should go or not really depends on your interests and on how many ruins you can handle in one day.
rock tombs Naqsh e Rajab
YAZD – 2 Days
From Shiraz we took a nightbus to Yazd, an enchanting mud-brick desert city. My favourite city in Iran- I think. What made me love Yazd so much was the fact that it is so astonishingly different from any other city I had ever seen. Serene, quiet and entirely made of mud buldings… Come on! According to UNESCO, Yazd’s old town is the oldest city on earth. Can you imagine that?! Standing on the city’s rooftops, you get fairytale-like views over the brown city. Getting lost in Yazd felt truly magical.
exploring the streets of Yazdsunset view from one of the many rooftopstea time accompanied by Yazd’s signature sweets
KHARANAQ- MEYBOD – CHAK CHAK – 1 Day
In Yazd we met a driver with whom we arranged a day trip to the surrounding sites. Out of the three stops, despite the beautiful surroundings, we found the pilgrimage site of Chak Chak to be the least interesting to us visitors.
Chak Chak, Zoroastrian pilgrimage site
The 1800-year-old mud castle of Meybod (Narin Castle) was much more to our liking. I’m still puzzled about how a mud castle can be in such good shape after almost 2000 years of existence, surviving invasions, wars, modern changes… WOW!
Following a tasty lunch in a historic caravanserai -where strangely enough we were the only people- we headed to the mud-brick village of Kharanaq. This was by far the highlight of our day. Though I’m sure it’s not for everyone, we just loved “Indiana Jones-ing” in the crumbling, virtually deserted village.
lunch in a caravanseraiKaranaqrooftops that made us feel like we had landed on another planetpomegranates surrounding Kharanaq
palm trees in the desertGarmeh, desert oasis of my dreams
MESR – 2 Days
Because Garmeh was such a big hit, we extended our stay in the desert and headed to another, even more remote desert settlement: Mesr. We drove out with the new friends we’d made in Garmeh and had another remarkable stay in the desert! This time around there was dune bashing at sunset, stargazing, chasing renegade camels and desert sand hikes. Iv’e said it before and I’ll say it again: I love the desert!
sand dunes as far as the eye can seeour guesthouse in the middle of nowhere
ESFAHAN – 2 Days
The grandeur of Esfahan left us standing in awe. This is where you’ll find Iran’s most impressive, majestic architecture. You’ll be surrounded by sharply dressed youths having a good time out, families spending time together in parks and lovers dating somewhat publicly… Esfahan is a modern and vibrant city standing in strong contrast with more conservative places like Yazd.
EsfahanSheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahanfamily day on the river banks
ABYANEH – 1 Day
Since we couldn’t find public transportation to the ancient village of Abyaneh, we hitchhiked there. Catching a ride was quite easy. Most people seem to visit Abyaneh as a day trip from Kashan but we figured we might as well spend the night. Apparently we were the only ones with that idea. Though this village is definitely not a “must-see”, we were thrilled to get a glimpse of a different Iran.
Irregular bus service to Abyanehstreets of AbyanehAll the locals we encountered in Abyaneh were elderly people dressed in a particular style. They looked very different from the people we had seen throughout the rest of the country.
KASHAN – 2 Days
Kashan, another place I was enamoured with. Whether it was due to the -once again- exceptional rooftops, our charming guesthouse, the abundant rose water, the “secret” gardens, the grand traditional houses or the lively bazars, I don’t know. Kashan really got under my skin.
just can’t get enough of these rooftops!farmland hidden inside an old fortress in Kashantraditional house
From Kashan it was a short ride to the end point of our trip: the international airport of Tehran. As you can see, we spent about two days in each destination. Because many of the attractions were closed due to the festivities of Ashura, this was just enough time not to feel rushed. We could have easily spent more time in each of the spots mentioned above and would have loved to visit other parts of the country. That’s why we promised ourselves there would be a next time! But in the end, the beauty of Iran lies, more than its sights or scenery, in its people. So any amount of time spent in the country is enough to at least get a taste of the Persian hospitality.
When I met my husband he charmed me with his vague plan to buy a motorcycle in India with which he’d traverse the country while documenting the journey on film. Ravished as I was, I didn’t really believe he’d pull through. But there I was, ten months later, on a plane to India to join in on the motorcycle adventure. A trip from South to North India on a 1979 Royal Enfield, “Bullet”.
bizarre checkpoint along the way
It would take a short novel to tell you the whole story, so I’ll stick to the most essential parts…
When I arrived in India Douglas and his travel mate had already bought motorcycles, driven through the most insane traffic situations, been severely ill and they’d had a few near death experiences. But worst of all, they’d just been robbed of thousands of dollars worth of filming equipment and the stories they had captured on film. That’s how we got acquainted with India’s police and red tape. I’ve blacked out the details, it really was that horrible.
The silver lining was that robbery happened in Varkala, a popular backpacker beach hangout perched on a steep cliff full of restaurants, bars and shopping stalls. So while we spent days at the police station fighting for paperwork to come through, we’d spend the rest of the time stuffing our faces with banana pancakes, drinking cool beers, joining spontaneous sing-alongs around the campfire and skinny dipping under the full moon with new found Scandinavian friends. You know, the usual backpacker’s stuff.
Varkala beach at sunsetnot a bad way to wait for paperwork to come through…
After a week of frustration, we finally got the paperwork out of the way and were ready to leave the tourist Shangri-La to dig into the “real” India.
let’s go!
With our backpacks strapped securely to the back of our motorcycle, we crossed the palm fringed Kerala. We parked “The Bullet” for a few days to spend some time gliding the backwaters on a houseboat.
view from our houseboat
We continued our trip passing through gorgeous landscapes and majestic cities…
Udaipur
…but also rather dull ones.
the hardest stretches were the ones with boring landscapes
We would drive all day, taking lots of breaks…
dancing with some school kids during the pee/stretch break in the middle of nowhere
…and we’d look for a place to stay once the sun started to set. If we were lucky we’d find a quaint little room with a view but more often than not, we’d have to take whatever was available. Thus we got our fair share of bedroom cockroach encounters, rat dropping surprises and malfunctioning fans in temperatures of 40 C° at night. Or even worse: nosy staff showing up unannounced in our room at night under pretext they’d “need something” from inside… WTF?!
cockroach-free room with a view…
The Bullet tagged along with us where ever we went, giving us the freedom to stop anywhere we wanted.
we took The Bullet on a passenger ferry to cross a river. In india everything is possible, all you need to do is ask.The Bullet got butchered on a a train ride…
Our motorcycle broke down often. We’d have it repaired if we happened to be near a town. If not, we’d fix it ourselves. With tape and rope. Yep, that works sometimes.
in cases of emergency, there is a mechanic in all of us
But usually there were more than enough people spontaneously getting involved, trying everything they could to get The Bullet running.
bystanders always got involved. Whether we’d want it or not.
Traffic in and near cities was absolute madness. You never know what you’ll encounter while driving. Anything goes.
dodging cows became a daily activitytraffic was always interestingelephants: part of every-day encounters on the road…
We met some interesting characters along the way.
talking to fascinating characters like this made our breaks extra compelling. I was drawn by his fabulous top.
We ate where the locals do.
street food
We tried to understand the essence of India. We were far from the tourist path and as close to life in small town India as possible. Even so, we knew we would never be able to truly make sense of things in this country. We are outsiders to the culture and always will be, no matter how hard we tried. To us, that’s the beauty of traveling in India.
beach in Kerala
My part of the journey ended in Delhi after having crossed the States of Kerala, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Gujarat and Rajasthan. Douglas continued further north through the Himalayas to Manali on his own.
having our own set of wheels allowed us to discover forgotten temples and ruins along the way
As you can imagine, insane things happened on this three month trip but as I mentioned earlier, it would take a novel to tell the full story. I would definitely rank this trip under the category “hardcore travel”.
Here are a few tips if you want to motorcycle through India:
1. Don’t. It’s dangerous. But if you really really must…
2. Travel in India without a motorcycle first. That way you’ll get to know the Indian way before taking on the responsibility of having to drive, deal with mechanics and cultural differnces, finding your way in sprawling cities… Only when you find that you can handle the Indian chaos, should you start to consider driving the motorcycle.
3. Upgrade your motorcycle’s horn. Make sure it’s loud enough to overpower the other horns. On Indian roads, it’s survival of the loudest.
4. Pack light, very light. It’s so much easier and more comfortable to drive with a light backseat. You may have noticed I’m wearing the same outfits in almost all of the pictures in this post. Do bring along some tape and rope, they always comes in handy!
5. Avoid cities and crowds. They’re complete mayhem.
6. If you are pressed with time, chose North India as your destination. The mountainous area north of New Delhi is far more laid back to drive through.
6. Finally and most importantly: Go with the flow. You can’t control most of what happens on the road. The sooner you accept that reality and let go, the sooner you’ll start enjoying the experience.
Motorcycling through India was not a relaxing trip. It was challenging, dangerous and frustrating.At the same time it was unlike anything else and incredibly rewarding. An epic journey for ever in our memories.
dirty, smelly and tired but 100% satisfied
Have you traveled by motorcycle? Where? Would you motorcycle India?
Day trips… they’re convenient when you want to see as much of a region as possible in a short amount of time. However, there are quite a lot of these convenient trips that really don’t do the place justice. You find yourself with hundreds if not thousands of day trippers, packed in the same shops and highlighted areas, you miss the perfect lighting for incredible photo’s at dusk or dawn and most importantly, you by-pass the soul of that place.
It happened to me a few times while other on other occasions I saw it happening to others. I’ve put together a list of places where I’ve either been bummed out not to have spent the night or have been extremely happy not to be part of the day tripper groups visiting the town.
1. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Often done as quick side trip from Kathmandu, most visitors only get a glimpse of the cultural gem of Bhaktapur. A day trip here will allow you to spend a few hours in the central area, have lunch in a reputed restaurants’ and shop in one of the many little kiosks surrounding the main square. It’s a small city swarming with monuments, religious shrines, gilded roofs and palaces with elaborate carvings which you could explore in just a day. However…
Bhaktapur is like and open air museum only it’s not staged
What you miss by making it a day trip
The essence of Bhaktapur is only to be experienced at sunrise. That’s when the people change Bhaktapur into a magical place. Women and children step out of their houses with platters full of offerings and start their rounds for the gods. They stop at every shrine and every corner of spiritual importance to bring an offering, say a prayer and conduct complex rituals which you, as an outsider, couldn’t possibly wrap your mind around. The smell of incense fills up the crisp morning air while the weak sun rays highlight some of Bhaktapur’s finest art.
As I mentioned before, Bhaktapur is one of my 12 favourite destinations of all times and the mornings are exactly what made this place more memorable and alluring than others. Coming here on a day trip would mean missing the morning’s enchantment, when the tourists are still in bed in Kathmandu and the town is the playground of the people and their gods.
morning offerings
2. Guatape, Colombia
I visited Guatape as a day trip from Medellin by public transport. About halfway through the day, I kicked myself in the head for not being able to spend the night in this extremely colourful town.
Guatape
What you miss by making it a day trip
Though Guatape is very small and you definitely could see everything in just a few hours, what I missed was the great lighting you would find early in the morning and in the evenings. Even if you’re not into photography, you’ll probably want to extensively photograph Guatape. It might be the cutest, most colourful town I’ve ever seen. The bright sunlight during the day makes it tough to capture all the details without harsh shadows overcasting the scenes. We noticed the town turning even more stunning as the late afternoon sun set in. Unfortunately, that was also our cue to head back since we didn’t want to arrive at the Medellin bus terminal at night. Dinner and a cool beer at sunset would have been the way to end the day in Guatape.
wishing we could captured the town during sunset
3. Bethlehem, West Bank
Busloads of tourists coming from Jerusalem,Israel swarm the central square of Bethlehem in Palestine every day. The tours take care of the border crossing, a visit to the historical/religious sanctuaries and safely return the tourists back to Israel after having visited the supposed birthplace of Jezus Christ. Although I understand the importance for many to visit a place of such significance, there is much more to Bethlem/Palestine…
the wall separating Israel and West-Bank
What you miss by making it a day trip
By staying in Bethlehem we were able to visit (and spent a few nights in) a refugee camp, talk to the people of Palestine, get into the current culture, broaden our knowledge on the complex situation… Missing these experiences is missing the point of going to Bethlehem. If you want to see where Jezus was born, shouldn’t you see and experience the place it is today as well? My stay in Palestine was eye-opening on so many levels, I could only feel regret for the people who were missing out on the enrichment by only being exposed to a particular church and shrines. If you want to know more about travel in West Bank, read my post to find out what’s in Palestine.
kids at school in refugee camp, the market, Douglas getting a shave, Palestinian specialties, having mint tea on the street in Bethlehem (click to enlarge)
4. Pamukkale, Turkey
The cotton castle of Turkey, usually visited as part of a day trip from resorts on the Turkish Riviera. I was surprised to see hundreds of tourists on the site but only a handful of hotels in the town; hello day trippers.
Pamukkale
What you miss by making it a day trip
Stay the night in the town of Pamukkale and you’ll have the otherwise overrun by tourist cotton castle all to yourself at the crack of dawn. I was the first person to enter the site that day and had teary eyes when I was confronted with the natural beauty and serenity of Pamukkale. I hopped barefooted from one white rock formation to the next, laughing like a child. It was as though I had found a hidden treasure.
arriving at the cotton castle at sunrise
Half an hour after my treasure discovery came the first round of day trippers: the Koreans. While they were very respectful of the site and taking their time to look around, I could already feel a change in atmosphere. By the time the buses of Russians took the relay, the serenity was over. People were more interested in snapping themselves looking sexy than in the site. Beers were consumed, hamburgers and ice creams were spilt and what was a place of wonder just a few hours before, turned into a what resembled a crowed outdoors public swimming pool on a hot summer weekend.
I stayed until closing time but the serenity never returned. I understood it could only be there after the site had spent a night recovering from the assault of mass tourism. When I overheard some day trippers complaining about what a tourist trap Pamukkale is, I knew I had made the right move by spending the night and being the first visitor in the morning.
Photo shooting… Quite amusing to watch, but happy that was not ALL I got to see of Pamukkale (click to enlarge)
5. Scottish Highlands, Scotland
What was I thinking, booking a day trip from Edinburgh to The Scottish Highlands?! It seemed to be the only way to visit this area during my short stay in Scotland. Boy, did I regret that decision.
landscape that calls for a hike
What you miss by making it a day trip
As we were driving by the hills that changed colours as the clouds shifted, all I wanted to do was to get out of the van and start walking amongst them. But I couldn’t, we were on a tight schedule. Damn these day trips. So what you miss is basically everything. Yes, I saw Loch Ness and yes, I had a delicious meal (haggis, what else) in one of those typical Scottish pubs but I didn’t get to spend the night in a rustic B&B or a local sheep farm. Nor was I getting my hiking boots dirty or drinking whisky with Scotsmen. By trying to see too much too fast, I missed most of what the Scottish highlands have to offer.
Loch Ness in the rain, in a hurry
6. Mekong Delta, Vietnam
Most travellers wanting to visit the Mekong Delta book a day trip from Saigon. It usually consists of a boat ride down the Mekong (while wearing conical hats) with a few stops along the river banks showcasing “real life” around the Mekong. Sometimes the tours also provide bicycles which you ride along the river following your guide and the 20 other members of your group. After lunch and perhaps a few shots of snake-scorpion liquor, visitors are returned to the big city.
Mekong Delta (click to enlarge)
What you miss by making it a day trip
Making it an overnight trip gives you the freedom to do the same thing minus the groups and the tight schedule. Because guess what? “Real life” along the Mekong doesn’t run on a tight schedule.
We took a public bus to one of the towns by the Mekong then locally booked a boat in the morning -specifically asking for the conical hats. Since no other tourist had apparently spent the night in this town, we had the boat to ourselves. In the afternoon we rented bicycles and randomly started biking. No plan, just me, my friend, the Mekong and its inhabitants. We stopped whenever we wanted, spent an hour hiding from the the rain with a cup of white coffee in a local farmer’s house and headed back when the sun started setting. We drank beer and ordered the old “we’ll have whatever they’re having”. With no tourists in town we were (sort of) part of the Mekong community for two days. That’s something you can’t say if you’re passing by on a touristy day trip.
getting lost around the Mekong (click to enlarge)
7. Berat, Albania
As Berat is listed as a UNESCO hertige site, people tend to just want to tick it off their ‘to do list’ and move on. For some, Berat is mere a day trip from Durres on the coast or from the capital Tirana.
city of a thousand windows
What you miss by making it a day trip
If you’ve been reading this blog, you already know Berat’s beauty made me weep and that it was one of my highlights in Albania. Spending the night in the city of a thousand windows allowed me to take it easy in this gorgeous town and savour its charm.
I met a traveller who had been to Berat right before me and told me she wasn’t impressed. Immediately whereafter she admitted only having spent two hours there and not have made it to the beautiful parts. Because it’s such a slow paced town, it’s best visited at a slow pace. Spending the night allows you to do just that and get in sync with the spirit of Berat.
having time to have a cup of coffee in this nice Albanian lady’s home
8. Ubud, Bali
Don’t be fooled by Ubud’s popularity for long and semi long stays, the town get a lot of day trippers. Big buses clog up the main streets and the day trippers come pouring in. The typical day trip consists of hitting the Monkey Forest, doing some shopping in the main street, having an ice cream or perhaps lunch, then heading to a surrounding temple or viewpoint before returning to the coast.
the ‘oh so popular’ Monkey Forest
What you miss by making it a day trip
You’ll miss the plethora of incredible little restaurants tucked away in surrounding streets and the calm in the rice fields you find just outside the city centre… On a day trip, you’ll only have enough time to hit the main street which is not Ubud’s best asset. For that reason most the day trippers I have spoken with, found Ubud to be too crowded, too commercial and not authentic at all. Yes, that’s because they were in the wrong area during day tripper peak moment (between 10AM and 4PM). Spend the night -or even better, several nights- and you’ll see a completely different face of the town. A much prettier, more genuine and serener one. And please, forget about the Monkey Forest.
you will not find the cool, tranquil spots when coming to Ubud for the day
9. Petra, Jordan
Either from Amman in Jordan or Eilat in Israel, day trippers drive to Petra, spend a few hours exploring the main passageways then return to their hubs or set their journeys onwards.
entering Petra
What you miss by making it a day trip
After spending an entire day exploring Petra, getting lost in majestic caves and climbing the pink rock formations we were happy to casually hang around the site and spend some time with bedouins who had their tents set up near Petra. They offered us tea, played music around a small fire while the sun was disappearing behind the horizon. They shared tales about their families who have been living in the area for centuries. Later, a dinner fit for kings was prepared for us, just down the road from Petra.
On some nights, Petra opens its doors to present a candlelit version of itself. You may not want to dish up the extra cash for the candlelight show, but sleeping in the arid desert area surrounding Petra and meeting the inhabitants is an experience you don’t want to miss out on.
meeting the people, sharing food (click to enlarge)
Have you ever regretted a day trip because it should have been an overnight trip? Where was it?
So you’ve decided to do it, you’re going to venture in what people find the scariest, darkest continent of them all. Let’s start by rectifying this misapprehension straight away, shall we.
Though there are some African countries that could qualify as somewhat “scary”, Africa is a huge continent. Did you know that Africa could easily fit the USA, China, India, Japan and Europe (Eastern and Western) all at once? How could a place this vast, possibly be generalised about, especially when it comes to safety, wealth, travel comfort, landscape or anything else for that matter.
true size of Africa- click to enlarge
Many travellers make it to Morocco, Egypt and Tunisia but never dare to wander more south, mostly out of fear. I won’t deny that the continent has its problems, but in terms of travel there is no reason to hesitate to chose Africa as a backpacking destination. That being said, it’s only natural to be at least a bit nervous about travelling to the ‘unknown’.
Every week I receive e-mails on this subject. Noob Africa travellers wanting to know where to go exactly. So I’ve come up with 5 of Africa’s most accessible countries; easy to backpack in, fantastic highlights, descent transportation, safe and a great introduction to Sub-Saharan Africa.
1. Tanzania: The Classic
Nothing wrong with a good classic. Going to Tanzania, you will not have any problems finding an easy tourist trail to follow while it’s just as easy to get off the beaten track. English is one of the official languages, so you should be able to communicate easily, even in small towns. The country offers a good mix of attractions: pristine beaches, mountains, scuba diving, rich cultural heritage, world class national parks… You’ll have the option to camp or to spoil yourself in the most amazing lodges and resorts. Tanzania has been hosting foreign visitors for decades, leaving it with a well developed tourist infrastructure.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Safari in Serengeti and/or Ngorongoro crater
scenes from Disney’s Lion King in Tanzaniacamping in Serengeti park is a good budget option and tons of funyou’re very likely to spot all your favourite savanna animals
* Chimpanzee tracking, Fishing and snorkelling in and around Tanganyika Lake
* Beaches, dolphins, culture, spices and architecture on the islands of Zanzibar and/or Pemba
white sand beaches of Zanzibarcarvings on the doorscocktails on the beach
* Scaling Mt. Kilimanjaro
if your budget doesn’t allow to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, you can always admire it from afar. photo by Roman Boed
2. Senegal and The Gambia: The beating heart of Western Africa
Since The Gambia lies completely inside of Senegal you could easily visit both countries. Note that they each have very different personalities. Senegal, just like Tanzania, has seen visitors for decades. Though most stick to beach resorts, there is quite a good tourist infrastructure. In terms of communication, French is one of the official languages so unless you speak it, you’ll have to dialogue with gestures, which works just fine, especially in a country where laughter is more important than words. In The Gambia, however, you will be able to get by with English. It’s an up and coming vacation destination often nicknamed ‘Africa for beginners’. Due to its small size, you could experience The Gambia in just one week.
A few backpacker highlights:
* visit Dakar’s markets
Sandaga market, loud and colourful, just like Senegal. photo credits.
* Join a fisherman’s crew in Gambia
ask a fisherman if you can join him for a catch. Or sit back and watch them haul in the nets. Photo by Wendy Moriarty
* Live jazz and strolling around the historical town of Saint-Louis, Senegal
streets of Saint-Louis Senegal. Photo by Jan Dudas
3. Uganda: Mellow and diverse – can be combined with Rwanda:
I was surprised to see how easy it was to navigate through Uganda while lugging around a backpack. At the same time, it feels like an adventure asking people for rides on the back of their motorcycles. In both countries English is widely spoken, which facilitates contacts with locals. Uganda has a lot to offer: Safari’s by foot/4×4/boat, explosive waterfalls, vibrant nightlife, adrenaline sports, lakes and gorgeous hikes. There is a reason why they call it the “Pearl of Africa”. Adding Rwanda to your itinerary will bring contrast to your trip. Both countries have gorgeous lakes, offer the opportunity to go gorilla tracking and are a bird watcher’s paradise, yet they are so different to one another culturally. Keep in mind that you’ll need a higher budget for Rwanda.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Gorilla spotting
face to face with a gorilla in the wild, a one of a kind experience presumably worth that big chunk of your budget. old school picture by G. Vanden Daele
The best thing about Ghana must be its diversity and contrasts. You will find dry lands on one side of the country, lush tropical forests and waterfalls on the other. Muslim, Christians and animists living side by side in harmony. Traditional villages run by a chief versus big bustling cities where you can find high quality australian steak as well as fashionistas parading through the streets. With its position on the West Coast of Africa, Ghana played a crucial role in the slave trade with the Americas. You can learn more about it in the former slave markets on Ghana’s coast. Again, English is one of the official languages and there are plenty of intercity buses giving you the opportunity to travel around the country with minimum plans and good comfort.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Cape Coast and Elmina Castle
immerse yourself in the history of slavery. you can actually still reek the human despair in the castles dungeons.when the history lesson gets too intense, put the past behind you and enjoy a fresh juice on the beach while the fishermen prepare to cast their nets.
* Trekking in Kakum National park
mandatory photo with crocodile
* Experiencing village life and visiting Larabanga mosque
scenes around the villagesnot your typicial mosque, Larabanga. Photo by Felix Krohn
5. South Africa: Western comfort in an African robe
If you are yearning for some African flavour but are not quite ready to leave your western comfort, South Africa is the place for you. It has everything you would find in a modern European country combined with Africa’s typical ‘joie de vivre’. From transportation to hostels and top notch sites, South Africa has everything you need for a surprising backpacking trip. I write surprising because wine tasting, surfing and sharing a beach with penguins are probably not the first things that come in mind when you think of Africa. Note that you may need a slightly higher budget than in the African countries mentioned above.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Cape Town and surroundings
Cape town has something to offer to every type of traveller. Also check out the surrounding vineyards and Robben islands. Foto by Jens
* Hiking in Drakensberg
the Drakensberg plateau borders with the tiny country of Lesotho, so if you’re looking to explore an extra country, why not cross the border. photo by Laurel Robbins
* Wild life spotting in Kruger National Park
because most first time Africa travellers want to see some game during their trip.
Backpacking in Africa is very different than backpacking in places like South East Asia. It’s a little tougher and more expensive. But the interactions with local people is much more intense as is the “I’m an explorer”-feeling. Though intrepid travellers would also very much enjoy the destinations listed above, I would probably add some other, more “edgy” recommendations. That’s for a future blogpost!
Have you backpacked Africa? Would you like/dare to?
I wasn’t sure what “on a budget” in Albania would mean exactly. Would my daily lunches consist of a raw cucumber from the market? Would I be forced to skip the bus fee in order to save a few bucks? Would I be sleeping in dirty dungeons, sharing bathrooms with 10 other people?
None of that was the case, especially not the latter. I stayed in a few memorable and great value spots in Albania that I’ve been recommending to fellow travellers. So why not share them on this platform too?!
One of the important contributors of my mind blowing stay in the Albanian Alps was definitely the Rilinja guesthouse. I was sold the minute I laid eyes on the quaint chalet in the woods.
easy to find
What’s so awesome about it: your own balconied room in a chalet amidst the glorious forest trees, offering views over the mountains and a fast streaming river. Or the crackling fire warming up the reception/restaurant welcoming you after a strenuous hike. The restaurant, located right beneath your room boasting a menu full of delicious Northern Albanian specialities -I happened to have tried almost everything on the menu and I can say with confidence, all the dishes are very tasty.
scrumptious dinner and wine with new friends – click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– the most beautiful hiking trails start near the guesthouse- maps can be provided
one of the hikes starting from the guesthouse
– they serve an excellent home brewed red, which comes in very copious amounts
– the restaurant/reception is a fantastic place to meet and socialise with other travellers.
Extra info: keep in mind that the rooms are small and their walls are paper thin. But in such a beautiful environment, you’ll be out and about all day, using your room only to crash exhaustedly at night.
your back yard
Rates start at €30 for a double including a huge breakfast. Share the room with a travel mate and you’ve got yourself a great budget deal! Prices are lower during the winter. Camping spots are available for €2. Do make a reservation through their website, especially during the weekend as the place can get packed with local tourists.
Florian’s guesthouse and it’s orchards – click to enlarge
On your way to Valbona, you’ll probably have to make an overnight stop in Shkodër, that is if you’re taking the scenic route there. It’s a small town that has a few charms and can be wandered around in a day, two at the most. But it was Florian’s guesthouse that made Shkodër memorable to me.
What’s so awesome about it: the guesthouse is out of town so you will get a bicycle (for free) to ride to the centre. That 5-6 minute ride on the Albanian streets in itself, is an adventure you will not forget. You’ll be eating organic, with produce coming right out of the back yard, straight onto your plate. You can even pick some of the veggies yourself, if you like. It’s the place to be for an authentic Albanian family experience: having “family” dinners with the hosts and other guests while surrounded by orchards and countryside peace. You’ll drink home made wine and rakia while sharing travel tales and have the opportunity to learn about Albania’s past and present through the fascinating stories of your host.
at the dinner table, clockwise: organic home made wine, birthday cake and rakia for desert, dining on home grown produce, veggie soup- click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– fun loving, warm and welcoming host Florian
– free use of bicycles
– full board option for €4 extra. Home made wine included!
laughing, toasting, drinking in true Albanian style
Extra info: the dorm is nothing to write home about, but it’s the cosy atmosphere and that pureness of rural Albania that will make your stay unforgettable.
Countryside scenes right outside your doorstep
Rates start at €11 per person including breakfast. Add €4 and you get lunch, dinner and wine. How’s that for good value?!
adding my pick of the day to my breakfast- click to enlarge
I loved Berat’s charm so much, it brought tears to my eyes. Spending hours breaking a sweat going up and down the cobbled streets, I was happy to end the day in relaxed atmosphere with a cool beer and friendly conversation at the Berat Backpackers hostel.
clean spacious dorm with beautiful views
What’s so awesome about it: a gorgeously renewed Berat style historical house. You won’t just be visiting Berat, but really living in it. A relaxed atmosphere lending itself perfectly for socialising with guests and staff in the hip communal living room or sitting quietly in the courtyard reading a book while plump pomegranates fall from the trees as they ripen.
Bonus points:
– right in the middle of one of the historical centres
view outside the hostel
– option to have a communal dinner in the hostel
– come at the right time and you might be able to help turn the grape/fruit harvest into wine/jams… the traditional way.
the traditional way… Photo by Berat Backpackers
Extra info: I stayed at the hostel during low season so it was very quiet. During the summertime however, it’s very animated. Note that Berat Backpackers is closed during the winter (December 1st 2014- March 15th 2015). Rates start at €6 for camping, €10 for a dorm bed in low season (€12 in high season) and € 12 per person for a private double.
All three of these guesthouses added that extra magic to my Albania travel. If you happen to travel that way, I strongly recommend you checking them out.
Which one would have your fancy? What kind of accommodation do you prefer? Hotels or guesthouses/hostels?
It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.
I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”
“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.
In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.
With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.
While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…
So in no Particular order
1. Oman
I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.
wadi perfect for a dip
2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London
I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.
some amazing food in the area
3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali
This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic
rice fields around Ubud
4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe
As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.
sunset over the Zambezi
5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland
The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.
somewhere along the way
6. Living the island life in Zanzibar
I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.
Zanzibari fishing village
7. Morocco
Every time I go to MoroccoI’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.
Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou
8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste
It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventurethat made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.
coastline in Dili
9. Hiking Dominica
Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.
every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island
10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel
Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.
quiet streets of the old city
11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela
Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.
Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean
12. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!
Bhaktapur in the morning light
I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.
I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.
There is a great misconception that Bali is just another tourist mecca full of beautiful clichés. Granted, there is a great deal of mass tourism, but there is so much more to it than that. Finding authenticity is a walk in the park and going off the beaten track is just as easy. Quirks are plentiful and one needn’t look far to find some. Besides the cultural oddities, there are tonnes of fun off-beat activities you can participate in. These are my favourite quirky things to do in Bali.
1. Mud wrestling under a full moon at the Green school
The greenest school on earth lies somewhere between rice fields and Balinese villages. Built entirely out of bamboo, the Green School boasts an endangered bird rehabilitation program, an organic vegetable garden grown by its students, an enormous crystal radiating positive energy on the playground, a natural swimming pool and… a mud pit. Students, teachers and visitors regularly engage in playful mud wrestling tournaments. Several times a year, a “Mepantigan full moon performance” is held on the school grounds. Mepantigan is a traditional act combining Balinese martial art, fire dance, drama and music. Those who don’t mind getting their clothes dirty, can join the mud fun after the performance.
playing in the mud. Mind the school’s horse in the background. Photo by Ana Baranova
Even if you’re not lucky enough to be in town during the mud fight, I recommend visiting the Green School anyway. A sustainable international school running on solar energy with “a vision of a natural, holistic, student-centered learning environment that empowers and inspires its students to be creative, innovative, green leaders.” A school so incredibly cool, you’d want to turn into a kid just to attend. Visit their website to find out more or to book a tour.
we could all learn something at the green school
2. Party hard… and sober on a Sunday morning
Every Sunday, Ubud’s most popular yoga spot organises a smashing Sunday Dance. Starting at 11AM, expats, locals and visitors come together to party like there is no tomorrow. People let go and let lose, moving their bodies to the music in which ever way they feel like, expressing themselves through movement. There is screaming, crying, laughter, sweaty hugs, glitter… Anything goes. There is only one rule: no talking. As the dance progresses, the music gets more intense and the dancers feed on each other’s energies. Unbelievably powerful!I’ve added this to the list of quirky things because, if you only ever danced in amongst a crowd at a club or at a party and preferably in slightly intoxicated condition, your first minutes there can feel quite awkward and bizarre. As soon as you realise nobody is there to observe or judge, you loose your inhibitions naturally. Put on a smile, dance and spend the rest of your day on cloud nine.
good vibes on Sunday morning
3. Laugh your head off during a laughing yoga session
Laughter strengthens your immune system, boosts your energy, diminishes pain and protects you from the damaging effects of stress. This is the mantra that inspires the biweekly laughing yoga gatherings in Ambar Ashram. Imagine a grass field covered with 100 Balinese on a yoga mat, laughing themselves silly. Doesn’t that sound like the place to be?! Even though it’s a local activity and the spoken language is Indonesian, foreigners are more than welcome… Laughter knows no language. There’s more to the class than laughter, but I don’t want to reveal any spoilers. Classes are free and last an hour. Bring a yoga mat if you have one and leave with a relaxed mind and body!
I haven’t gone mad, I consciously wrote “cat poop coffee”. That’s right, Kopi Luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world, is actually “civet cat poop coffee”. Some explanation… As night falls, wild civets roam around the “Luwak “coffee plantations to feed on the plants’ best coffee beans. The civets having partially digested the beans, excrement them around the plantation. The farmers then search for and pick up the stools. Once dry, the remaining beans are picked out by hand, then peeled and roasted. The result: world’s most exclusive coffee.“Is it any good?”, you want know… Well I’ve heard mixed reviews: some find it exquisite, others find it too bland. It’s not a coffee that will have you bouncing off the walls, but I enjoyed its mildness. It definitely doesn’t taste as gross as the title could have you thinking, but I’m not sure it’s worth the €6/100gr to me.
coffee eating civet, sadly encaged as a show piece for touristsdried civet feceskopi luwak- cat poop coffee
5. For women only: enjoy a steam sauna… for your most intimate organ
This one actually originates from a traditional Javanese beauty and bridal ritual. I’ll keep the story short.Just before marriage or after giving birth, Javanese women undergo a cleansing ritual. Only wearing a sarong, the women are seated on a chair with a hole. In that hole lies a clay plot with heated charcoal and herbs creating rising fog which “cleans” the women’s private parts.This procedure called “ratus”, is also practiced in Bali and is available in local spa’s. You don’t need to be a bride to enjoy the Javanese beauty secret. Now every adventurous woman can give it a go. It takes about 45minutes and in some modern spa’s you will get a shoulder massage while you get “steamed”. My ratus experience was a very pleasant one. After feelings of awkwardness sitting half-naked on a smoking chair, came relaxation and bliss. I felt rejuvenated and fresh. To be repeated! I underwent the treatment at Midas Spa in Ubud.
get the picture?
These are just a few of the unusual things to do in Bali. Plenty more to discover throughout the island and the entire country!
