Tag: Sulawesi

  • An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences

    An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences

    It’s been quiet on Travel Cake these past few months. Some of you have been asking me where I’ve been and what I’ve been up to. Well, I can tell you this much: I haven’t been slacking!

    I’ve moved from Ecuador to Belgium where I have been slaving away at a 9 to 5 desk job. Being back in my hometown has been wonderful in terms of reconnecting with friends, family and the city. You may have read the mini luxury guide to Ghent I wrote for travel blog “Hippie in Heels”. You may also have read what I had to say about travel photography in an article for “Voyager for life“.

    waterfall mindo
    saying my goodbyes to Ecuador

     

    But most importantly, I’ve been preparing for the trip of a lifetime. A new adventure, greater than any I’ve ever been on before.

    Destination?

    Motherhood.

    That’s right,I said motherhood.

    The journey began 10 months ago in Iran and continued in Ecuador and Colombia. It took a turn in the US and passed by the Netherlands. It then continued to Belgium where our daughter was born. Our ‘Mini Travel Cake’ is a sweet and funny baby with a traveller’s spirit. How could it be any different, she is only a month old and has already been to 6 countries!

    front-for-print

    Does this mean Travel Cake is turning into a mommy blog?

    No. Plain and simple. It’s just not my cup of tea. However, I’ll probably publish an article related to kids and travel every once in a while. But in general I plan on publishing the same kind of content as I have so far.

    As my pregnancy came to an end, I was stuck indoors with a swollen face hiding from the summer heat. Knowing that my life will never be exactly the same again, I thought about my passed travels. Motherhood is probably the most intense and life changing adventure of them all and I’m THRILLED not to have rushed into it. Thrilled to have taken time to see and experience as much of the world as possible while being relatively carefree. That’s why, as a tribute to carefree travelling, I will be posting a countdown of my 100 most memorable, essential travel experiences.

    Here goes part 1, in no particular order:

     

    100. Driving miles and miles on the rooftops of Nepali busses. 

    the best spot on the bus is the roof!
    A drink, music blasting from your headphones and wind running through your hair… the best seats are in between the luggage on the roof of the bus!

     

    99.  1001 nights in Morocco

    trying to look the part sippin on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco's fancy riads.
    Morocco’s riads are so romantic, so sophisticated and worth the occational splurge. I tried  looking the part sippin’ on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco’s fancy riads. Click on the title to read about my weekend in Fez, Morocco.

     

    98. Floating through life on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala

    waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways
    Waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways, sigh…

     

    97. Going nuts during Thingyan, Myanmar’s water festival

    party at Black Culture
    Water party in a pop-up day club
    street scene
    This is a common street scene in Yangon during the water festival. Click on the title to read about our experiences during Thingyan.

     

    96. Trekking in the Himalayas

    our first and very ill prepared trek, 4300m altitude. click on the title to read a post related the experience
    Our first and very ill prepared trek at 4300m altitude. Click on the title to read a post related to trekking.

     

    95. Rum cocktails in Castro’s Cuba

    Cuba during Castro's reign was such a bizarre yet enchanting place for a visitor. Things may have changed now, but I'm sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!
    Cuba during Castro’s reign was such a bizarre yet unique and enchanting place. At least for visitors. Things may have changed but I’m sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!

     

    94. Hiking in Valbona, Albania

    after a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption.
    After a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption. Click on the title to read about my hike in the Albanian Alps.

     

    93. Spending the night in the garden of Eden in the Democratic Republic of Congo

    sunset in the garden of Eden
    Watching the sun set after a long walk in what seemed like the garden of Eden. DRC has fantastic nature, I wish I could say the same for the political situation.

     

    92. Seeing Tarsiers in the wild

    tarsier back in his sleeping tree
    A childhood dream came true when we spotted these cuties in the jungle of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Click on the title to read more about our time in Sulawesi.

     

    91. Fishing, sunbathing and drinking on a catamaran in Los Roques, Venezuela

    Los-Roques
    My first time on a caribbean beach, I was overwhelmed by the high tropical factor

     

    90. Traveling by train in Russia

    RUSSIA
    I got to know my cabin mates by communicating with signs on a 40 hour train ride to the Russian Arctic

     

    89. Hiking the Cocora valley in Colombia

    COCORA
    Another long time travel dream come true! Click on the title to read about our hike in the Cocora Valley.

     

    88. Discovering the architectural jewels of Iran

    IRAN2
    Feeling tiny amongst Iranian architectural masterpieces

     

    87. Camping on a beach in Oman and finding nestling turtles

    click on the title to read about my road trip in Oman.
    Camping on a deserted beach in southern Oman.
    up close and personal with the sea turtles
    We stumbled upon some sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Click on the title to read about my road trip to Oman.

     

    86. Learning to scuba dive

    ready for discovery
    Wreck diving in the Philippines, a new world opening up…
    scuba diving in Zanzibar
    My first open water dive in Zanzibar, one of many more to come.

     

    85. Trying to understand the Israeli-Palestinan conflict

    quiet streets of the old city
    The more I talked to local people on both sides of the conflict, the more confused I was on the issues. No matter how much I hung out in the old streets of Jerusalem. Read more about my trip to Israel.
    on my way to Palestine
    Crossing the horrendous border to Palestine. Click on the title to read more about my findings in Palestine.

     

    84. Motorcycling through India

    South to North India by Royal enfield
    An epic drive from South to North India on a 30 year old Royal Enfield. Click on the titel to read about out motorcycle trip through India.

     

    83. Unexpectedly ending up in Paris and attending a crazy party in “la Machine du Moulin Rouge” 

     the evening took an expected turn and I found myself in Paris. Wearing pink fur and a white wig...
    The evening took an unexpected turn and I found myself in Paris. Wearing pink fur and a white wig…

     

    82. Travelling solo 

    traveling solo through Turkey. Click on the title to read why I travel solo even when I'm in a relationship.
    I find traveling solo extremely liberating and enriching. Everybody should try it at least once in their life! Click on the title to read why I travel solo even when I’m in a relationship.

     

    81. Trying to catch a glimpse of Nessie in Loch Ness in the Scottish highlands

    in the Scottish Highlands
    Nessie not found.

     

    So much for part 1 of my favourite travel experiences. Continue reading part 2part 3part4part 5 and part 6!

    Which of these experiences would you want to read more about? 

    The post “An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Journey to the Togean islands, Indonesia

    Journey to the Togean islands, Indonesia

    I’m staring out the bus window with a intense frown covering my face. The lush Andes landscape rolling by, leaves me almost indifferent. I realise what beauty surrounds me, but I just can’t enjoy it. The combination of high altitude and winy mountain roads leading us up and down the hills has left me with the worst feeling of nausea I have ever experienced. I try to remember the last time I felt this way as a reminder that, just like last time, the nausea will eventually go away…

    I dig deep into my memory and then remember… Last time I felt this horrible was over one year ago on the never ending journey to the Togean Islands in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A 16 hour drive swinging through hairpin turns with a sleepy driver that had partied all night, followed by a sleepless night in a cockroach infested hotel with an active karaoke bar right next door to it. The jaunt continued the next morning with a 4 hour boat ride full of seasick people vomiting in plastic bags only to be finished with one more boat ride to our final destination: Kadidiri paradise. And paradise, it was.

    Togean Islands, Sulawesi, Kadidiri Paradise

    I close my eyes in an attempt to day dream away from the motion sickness in the Ecuadorian bus. My thoughts slowly sink to the unspoilt Togean beaches.

    Togean islands, Sulawesi
    sailing past inhabited islands
    Togean islands, Sulawesi
    arriving at our resort
    Togean islands, Sulawesi
    Welcome to paradise…

     

    There was not much to do on these islands. No internet nor phone reception… A total digital detox and relaxation in it’s most original form. Our days were spent snorkelling in the crystal clear waters right outside our doorstep…

    Togean islands, Sulawesi

     

    Saving the coral from the “evil” crown-of-thorns starfish…

    Togean islands, Sulawesi

     

    Daydreaming in a hammock…

    Togean islands, Sulawesi

     

    Catching up on some reading…

    Togean islands, Sulawesi

     

    Scuba diving to some incredible locations like Una Una, an active underwater Volcano…

    Una Una, scuba Sulawesi, Indonesia
    source

     

    Floating in a jelly fish lake (of course, they don’t sting)…

    foto by

     

    Drinking cool (overpriced) beer with friends while watching the sun set into the ocean…

    Togean islands, Sulawesi

     

    The journey to the Togeans was a tough one but most definitely worth it. If you decide to spend a few days or weeks on the Togean islands, I recommend you bring your favourite snacks and maybe a bottle of booze to create your own cocktails on the beach. Kadidiri Paradise has only one tiny shop, selling some Pringles and a few other nibbles. You’ll get bored of them after a few days, I’m sure. Though the price of your room includes three hearty meals a day, you might get hungry in between meals, that’s when the snacks come in handy.

    Don’t forget to pack a good amount of entertainment: frisbee, beach ball, books, notebooks, chess set… Whatever takes your fancy.

    Have you ever done a digital detox? Would you need one?

     

     

    The post “Journey to the Togean island, Indonesia” first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • 2014 Travel Summary

    2014 Travel Summary

    I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.

    I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…

     

    JANUARY…

    SULAWESI- INDONESIA

    I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.

    Torajan funeral
    Torajan funeral
    tarsier back in his sleeping tree
    tarsier

    MALAYSIA

    As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.

    pleasure
    proud devotee
    Thaipusam
    for the sake of devotion
    inside the cave
    the end of the pilgrimage

     

    FEBRUARY…

    BALI

    As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…

    last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences
    last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)

     

    MARCH…

    HONG KONG

    A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!

    Hong Kong
    visiting Chinese temples
    Eating Honk Kong
    order after order of new flavours

    MACAU

    During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.

    wide sunny boulevards
    wide sunny boulevards
    Macau casino
    gamble paradise

     

    APRIL…

    BELGIUM

    Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.

    Julien'ke
    deliciously gross Belgian fare
    a long time since I last saw spring
    a long time since I last saw spring

     

    MAY…

    ITALY

    By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.

    Bologna
    the red city seen from above
    Bologna antipasti
    incredible food and wine in Bologna

     

    JULY-AUGUST…

    DRC

    Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!

    It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.

    Congo's stunning nature
    Congo’s stunning nature
    safety first
    safety first
    kids in the village
    kids in the village
    crossing the Congo-Nile
    crossing the Congo-Nile

    UGANDA

    On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.

    buying goat brochettes from the bus window
    buying goat brochettes from the bus window
    Lake Bunyonyi
    Lake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele

    RWANDA

    Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.

    LAKE kivu, Gisenyi
    sunset in Gisenyi

     

    SEPTEMBER…

    FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS

    To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.

    catching up in front of an old country house
    catching up in front of an old country house
    Friesland
    clog boots
    FRIESLAND
    old fashioned fun

     

    OCTOBER…

    MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO

    Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.

    As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.

    kids in Beirat, Albania
    kids in Beirat, Albania

     

    GREECE

    I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.

    Athens by night
    Athens by night
    wine tasting in the country side
    wine tasting in the country side

     

    NOVEMBER…

    IRAN

    Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!

    Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.

    Sheik Loftollah Mosque
    inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahan
    Kashan
    farmer in Kashan
    Kashan
    out of this world rooftops

     

    DECEMBER…

    ECUADOR

    The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.

    What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…

    on the look out for a new life in Ecuador
    on the look out for a new life in Ecuador

     

    How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?

    The post ‘2014 Travel Summary‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • What’s in Sulawesi?

    What’s in Sulawesi?

    Maybe I should start by answering  the question “where is Sulawesi”. Among the 6000 inhabited islands of Indonesia, lies Sulawesi, one of the country’s largest. Announcing we were off to explore Sulawesi, my friends and I all got the same puzzled reaction: “Oh, how lovely… What’s in Sulawesi?” To be honest, I wasn’t quite sure when we left. I had read a couple of thing here and there, but it was a big question mark to me as well.

    So here’s is what I found on the island of Sulawesi

     

    1. Jaw dropping landscapes

    Mist rolling over hills and valleys, tiny motorways crossing vast plains of rice fields, rugged cliffs, jungles, volcanoes, beaches… Diverse landscapes lending themselves perfectly for hikes and motorbike rides.

    Sulawesi
    around the hills
    black sand beach, Sulawesi
    black sand beach
    on a motorbike, Sulawesi
    driving a motorbike

     

    2. Tana Toraja- remarkable culture and architecture

    Land of the Torajan people. Emerge yourself in the fascinating culture of the Toraja in the southern half of the island. Torajans welcome guests to discover their unique culture and beliefs. I know the word “unique” is often used too loosely to describe pretty much anything, but if there was ever a correct description for this culture, unique would be the one! I found their “death-centric way of life” particularly interesting.

    traditional Torajan jewels, Sulawesi
    traditional Torajan jewellery
    Torajan funeral, Sulawesi
    at a Torajan funeral
    tongkonans, torajan house, Sulawesi
    architecture

     

    3. Gorgeous deserted islands

    The Togean islands for example… If you keep in mind the effort to get there- we drove and sailed for 2 days, non-stops- it will not come as a shock that there is no phone or internet connection on the tiny islands. Great as a digital detox or just a relaxing few days of beach, snorkel, eat, sleep, repeat.

    mangrove beach Bunaken, Sulawesi
    mangrove beach in Bunaken
    beach crabs, Sulawesi
    beach crabs everywhere
    Sulawesi
    romance returns when technology disappears…

     

    4. A dark side

    As mentioned above, death is everywhere around you in Southern Sulawesi. Not in creepy, dangerous way, but as a natural, celebrated part of life. Every now and then you stumble upon a collection of century old bones and coffins. Bodies are buried in cliffs and caves, skeletons are given cigarettes and money. Sometimes I imagined myself on the set of a gothic music video.

    century old skulls, Sulawesi
    surprised by these century old skulls
    cigarettes for the dead , Sulawesi
    cigarettes for the dead

     

    5. Top notch underwater scenery

    Prepare to redefine your perception of colour… Some of the brightest, most colourful coral and fish can be found in Sulawesi. Despite the years of dynamite fishing in the area, there is still a considerable amount of intact coral. The fishes’ patterns, textures and colour schemes inspire a mental creation of a new wardrobe. Such a pity I’m not a designer!

    For the experienced who have had their share of coral gazing and would like to see a different kind of marine habitat, the Lembeh straight offers some world class muck diving opportunities. Snorkel in Bunaken, muck dive in Lembeh and dive around the Togean islands.

    snorkelling togean, Sulawesi
    unfortunately I don’t own a waterproof camera (yet?), so this is the best I can show you. Togean islands

     

    6. Tarsiers

    If you ask me, they are the cutest primates on this planet. Sulawesi houses tarsiers in two of their national parks. We tracked them down with a guide at the crack of dawn in Tangkoko National Park. My nine year old self gave me a big “high five” for seeing them in real life… Childhood dreams come true!

    tarsier, Sulawesi
    tarsier back in his sleeping tree after a night of hunting
    tarsier family, Sulawesi
    aren’t they cute?

     

    7. A new cuisine to try out

    The cuisine in Sulawesi has its own personality. Sure, you can find your typical “mie goreng” or  “nasi campur”, but an abundance of traditional dishes are waiting to be sampled. Vegetarians/vegans beware: Sulawesi dishes are heavy in meats or fish, so you’ll have a hard time finding something other than rice to eat- the rice is exquisite though. I tried “pa’piong”, a Torajan speciality: meat (or fish) with vegetables and traditional black spice, slow cooked in a bamboo tube over an open fire. Incredibly strong and distinct flavours!

    exciting new spices to try...
    exciting new spices to try…
    pa'piong with black rice
    doesn’t look very appetising but worth a try: pa’piong with black rice

     

    8. Jellyfish lake

    On the Togean islands you will find a lake full of stingless colourful jellyfish. You can swim with them, observe them while snorkelling. There are supposedly only three lakes in the world where this is possible! The jellyfish have no natural predators in those waters therefore they’ve lost their traditional defence mechanism, which makes them harmless to you, swimmer. It’s a magnificent experience. I quote my dear husband: “it’s like swimming in a lake full of boobs”.

    foto by
    foto by Nao Nishimiya

     

    9. A Buffalo and Pig market

    Admittedly, this is a rather strange attraction, but definitely worth a visit. I was so impressed I could hardly think. The noises, the smells, the fact that everyone else seemed so much at ease while I was fearing for my life (not really)… I find it enriching to challenge my views of what is “acceptable behaviour”, in this case behaviour towards cattle. Again, maybe not a good idea for vegetarians/vegans…

    buffalo market, Sulawesi
    walking amongst the buffalos
    farmer pigs, Sulawesi
    farmer selling his pigs

     

    10. Beautiful national parks, home to endangered species: crested black macaque

    There are many national parks with impressive fauna and flora. One of the parks is home to the critically endangered crested black macaque. I must say, I had no idea how bad the situation was. These apes are literally on the verge of extinction, even more so than tigers, orang utans or rhinos!

    curly tree roots, Sulawesi
    curly roots
    macaque, Sulawesi
    shameless macaque photograph
    2000 year old tree, Sulawesi
    climbing a 2000 year old tree

     

    11. Fantastic coffee

    The plantations lie in the Torajan highlands and produce a coffee bean that is good enough to be internationally distributed as ‘gourmet coffee’. The premium beans can hardly be found in the rest of the country, they are reserved for export, but we found a restaurant that was serving premium Torajan coffee (Cafe Aras in Rantepao). WOW! If you can’t make it to Sulawesi, why not try a cup of their coffee in your country?

    local coffee
    local coffee

     

    Things to keep in mind

    Sulawesi is not a cheap destination. Transportation is either extremely uncomfortable or pricey. Prices for meals are slightly higher than in Java or in Bali. If you are planning on diving, which is recommended, don’t forget to include that in your budget as well. Most dives are priced at 30US$. Accommodation on the smaller islands start at 20US$ per person, not per room (!) and include three meals.

    To travel in Sulawesi means to wait around a lot. Slow travel is key if you want to see the island. The attractions are scattered around, which creates “dead days” between two attractions; days of travel or waiting for a connection. Take your time or travel by plane. There are 6 airports on the islands: Makassar (South) and Manado (North) being the biggest ones.

    Had I known what I know now, I would have brought to the islands: a frisbee or a ball, a bottle of quality rum to make cocktails which are not served in Togean and extremely expensive in Bunaken. I would have brought more reading material– one novel wasn’t enough and some good snacks from the mainland– I was often hungry before dinner was served and got tired of eating the cookies from the only shop on the island.

     

    Have you heard of Sulawesi as a tourist destination? Would you consider going?

    The post “What’s in Sulawesi” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Torajan Death Rituals

    Torajan Death Rituals

     

    “Would you like to go to a funeral, m’am?”

    Not exactly the question you’d expect when stepping out of a long distance bus… And yet, what this man was proposing, is quite normal in Tana Toraja. In fact, funerals are the “main attraction” in the region. Visitors mostly come to learn about the Torajan culture in which death happens to play a central role. The Torajans are known for their elaborate traditional funeral rites. Tana Toraja, which means land of the Toraja people, is located in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.

    Tana Toraja, Sulawesi
    arriving in Tana Toraja, Sulawesi

     

    Intrigued by this culture, we agreed to the invitation and headed to the funeral only minutes after dropping our bags at the hotel. Luther, our guide, advised us to gift a few packs of cigarettes to the mourning family. “Cigarettes”? How ironic. He also told us we were very lucky; we were going to the funeral of a very rich lady who had long been chief of village…

     “Lucky”? What a confusing use of words…

    The deceased lady’s family welcomed us warmly and insisted we’d sit with them. We were offered tea and biscuits while encouraged to chat about our countries. This was all very awkward. The taboo around death in Western cultures was clearly nowhere to be found around here.

    The Torajans seemed very “relaxed” about it all. That might have something to do with the fact that when people pass, they are not buried straight away. Their families continue to work in order to gather all necessary funds to finance the funeral. It may take months or years before the burying rituals begin, depending on the family’s cash flow.

    Meanwhile, the bodies are embalmed, wrapped in cloth and kept in their traditional houses or ‘tongkonan’, under the same roof with their kin. Their spirits then dwell around the village until the burial. The dead aren’t considered dead, but merely ‘incurably ill’ until the funeral is complete. They are treated as though they were still alive. Family members take turns in sitting with the body, brining it food, water and cigarettes on a daily basis. Not doing so would lead the deceased to think they aren’t cared about and he/she would bring bad luck to the village.

    tongkonans, Sulawesi houses
    tongkonans

    In Torajan culture, the funeral is the most important ceremony in life. One leads his life in order to have the biggest, most elaborate funeral possible. The 100 or more guests always bring a gift: cigarettes, rice, a pig or a buffalo according to their financial ability. The funeral lasts 11 days and consists of serval rites.

    Tanah Toraja, Sulawesi
    highly prized buffalo being gifted to the family
    Toraja funeral, Sulawesi
    chanting and dancing
    Tanah Toraja, Sulawesi, bull fight
    buffalo fighting is part of the funeral rites
    toraja funeral, Sulawesi
    a procession of the closest family members
    spiritual men funeral procession, Sulawesi
    spiritual men lead the procession

     

    Torajan funerals are a bloody affair. The deceased’s soul is believed to travel to the afterlife on a buffalo or horse. How do you bring livestock to your afterlife? By sacrificing it, of course. Therefore, the more buffalo offered, the more reassured the family will be that their loved ones will reach his or her final destination safely. Apart from buffaloes, the dead will also need to bring along their most valuable possessions, including the rest of their livestock. This is one of the most important funeral rites: pigs and buffaloes are slaughtered by the dozens. Their souls join their owners while their flesh is distributed with the living family and guests. How’s that for a party favour, a big bag of meat…

    pigs market, Sulawesi
    gifted pigs
    toraja funeral, Sulawesi
    the meat is shared amongst guest and the blood is kept in bamboo

     

    Because buffaloes come with a high price tag, their horns are cut off and kept as a “trophy”. They are hung up on the deceased tongkonan and represent the family’s wealth. The more horns on your house, the wealthier your family.

    buffalo horns, sulawesi
    small buffalo horns
    tongkonan, toraja house, Sulawesi
    tongkonan of a wealthy family

    When the funeral is completed the bodies are buried. Not under the ground, but in a cave or in a hole carved in a cliff. Family members craft a “tau-tau”; what could be compared to an avatar, representing the deceased. His/her spirit is believed to inhabit the tau-tau. They are placed on a balcony in front of the graves. Several times a year, after the rice harvest, family members ask their ancestors, inhabiting the tau-tau, for well being, good crops and healthy children.

    graves in the cliff, Sulawesi
    graves in the cliff
    tau-tau, toraja, sulawesi
    tau-tau and graves
    tau-tau, Sulawesi
    tau-tau; meaning not human, nor puppet.
    tau-tau, Sulawesi
    more live like tau-tau

     

    The burying ritual for babies is less complex. The lifeless babies are embalmed and placed in a sitting position in a carved hole of a large tree. The type of tree used a for the burying is a specific one; a thick white fluid oozes from its bark when cut. The fluid symbolises the milk the tree will feed the young child with. It embraces the babies by growing around them and closing the hole. It becomes their mother. These trees are considered sacred and may not be approached by outsiders but we were allowed to visit an old tree which is no longer in use.

    baby graves, Sulawesi
    baby graves

     

    Attending a funeral is weirdly enough, a top attraction in Tana Toraja. I found it such an incredible enrichment to experience how this culture deals with death and what place it has in their communities. Watching the slaughtering was bit harsh, however that’s easily put into perspective since it’s so authentic. This is not some show put on for tourists, this is Torajan reality. People are so friendly and open, I quickly felt at ease.

    ‘Funeral season’ is in July and August, but there are funerals throughout the year. Tourists are welcome to attend them and are treated as honoured guests. Make sure you bring a gift to the family! There isn’t really a dress code, but obviously you should dress modestly and respectfully. If you have a black t-shirt, wear it; you’ll fit right in. The city of Rantepao is a good base to explore Tana Toraja.

     

    Would animal sacrificing stop you from attending a local ritual?

    The post ‘Torajan death rituals‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Off the Grid: Exploring Indonesia

    Off the Grid: Exploring Indonesia

    Disapproving looks are thrown my way as I type this article on my tiny phone keyboard. Who spends time on their phones when they are on a small tropical island?! Well… Me.

    I’m in Bunaken, a lush island just off the coast of Sulawesi, Indonesia. The sea is warm, the coconut trees are a great source of shade, the corals are bright and the multi-coloured fish are bountiful. As in most parts of Sulawesi the internet connection is limited or non-existent. Therefore, I will  have to restrain from blogging for two weeks.

    togean island, sulawesi

    I will however, post pictures on Instagram and Facebook. If you want to stay updated, make sure you connect with me, if that’s not the case yet. Just hit the “Like” button the  Travel Cake Facebook-page or find me on Instagram- @mangovoyage

     

    image

    image

    See you in two weeks with new stories!

    How are you spending the first weeks of the year?

     

  • 2013 Travel Summary

    2013 Travel Summary

    2013 flew by so fast, I hardly saw the months pass by. In terms of travel, this year was insane! I moved from Europe to Asia and wound up in a place that “forces” me to leave the country and travel at least every two months. Not the worst deal, right?

     

    Here is part I of my 2013 travel summary:

    JANUARY… Belgium

    I started 2013 in my favourite city of all times: Ghent, living and working in the city centre. It was an extremely busy month but an exciting one with lots quality time with friends and family.

    gent
    frozen city centre

    I conquered one of my biggest (irrational) fears: driving. It was a real challenge for me especially since the lessons took place at night, in the snow! Learning to drive has been on the top of my resolutions list for years. I finally pulled through.

     

    FEBRUARY… Poland

    I took a short trip to Warsaw with one of my best friends. Poland during the winter is no joke, but the snow embellished the city. We had a great time learning all about the Polish vodka drinking etiquette. I had my first experience as a journalist at a Polish radio station and enjoyed a fab jazz concert.

    Warsaw's old town square
    >Warsaw’s old town square
    at Trojia Polskie radio
    at Trojka Polskie radio

    Exactly 3 years earlier, a British girl hitchhiked from London to Berlin and stopped in Ghent on her way there. We met, we hit it off, we became friends and she continued her journey to Berlin. On her way back to London, she passed through Ghent again and stayed with me for a couple of days. Ever since, she has moved to Australia and we never saw each other again. Until… we bumped into each other on Warsaw’s main square. Magical! We spent the little time we had, catching up over food and coffee!

    reunited
    reunited

     

    MARCH… Oman, UAE, Bankok

    I exchanged the everlasting cold temperatures of Europe for the Eastern heat. My voyage started in Oman. A country I had been drawn to for years. When I finally set foot in it, I fell in love head over heels. Oman was everything I hoped it would be and more. I stayed with an awesome woman who introduced me to Omani culture. We partied, gossiped, walked around Muscat, bonded over huge plates of traditional Omani food. During my little road trip I discovered the country’s wonderful and hospitable people, the ancient culture and the stunning nature… I loved it all.

    muscat malecon
    Muscat’s corniche
    digging in
    digging in

     

    United Arab Emirates

    After Oman, I made a stop in the United Arab Emirates. Mainly to visit a friend who had just emigrated there. She showed me around the glam of Dubai. I was expecting it to dislike it, but Dubai surprised me. I enjoyed the fancy cocktails and the high class lunches. I loved the sense of safety and the well dressed tourists. Even though I have strong reservations about energy wasting in he UAE and the whole “bigger is better” attitude, one can’t deny it is a unique place on earth, showcasing human ingenuity. If only they could use that ingenuity in an environmental friendly and fair trade kind of way…

    dubai
    Burj Khalifa, tallest building in the world

    Bangkok

    When my time in Dubai was up, I made way to Bangkok. Again, just a brief encounter which was just long enough to allow me to get a feel of the city. I stayed in a fantastic boutique hostel that blew my mind. Refill Now! is probably the most stylish and clean hostel I’ve ever stayed in. I met some kick-ass ladies whom I explored the city with. I haven’t quite made up my mind about whether or not I like Bangkok. I guess I’ll have to go back to decide.

    Refill Now! hostel
    pool at Refill Now! hostel
    Bangkok by night
    Bangkok by night

     

    APRIL… Myanmar

    I spent three weeks in Myanmar discovering a country that only recently opened its doors to the rest of the world. It’s without a doubt a fascinating country, untouched in so many ways, but I didn’t LOVE the place. I don’t think it has anything to do with me getting a Buddha overdose, but there was just something that didn’t agree with me. Was it the fact that it was so hot you couldn’t move during the day? Or that the food wasn’t all that? Or was it the fact that I longed to stop traveling and settle down for a while? Or yet again, was I too bothered by the current regime? Either way Myanmar and I just didn’t click. I’m not sure why, I never really understood. All I know is; I won’t be going back any time soon.

    Bagan
    beautiful Bagan
    transformed into a Burmese lady
    transformed into a Burmese lady

     

    MAY… Malaysia-Singapore

    In may, I finally got to store away my luggage for a while. Douglas and I settled down in Kuala Lumpur. The stability only lasted a short time as we moved from KL to Georgetown, Penang. Neither cities was the kind of environment we wanted to live in, so we decided to leave mainland Malaysia behind.

    Kuala Lumpur
    view from our window in Kuala Lumpur
    egg oyster
    getting stuffed in George town
    George town by night
    Penang by night

     

    Singapore

    Later that month I revisited Singapore and just like during my first encounter 5 years ago, I loved the country/city. Yes, it’s freakishly clean, strict and (too?) organised, but it’s awesome! It’s an especially welcome break after the chaos of Kuala Lumpur. The food is amazing and I love how three very different ethnicities live together, side by side. If the rent in Singapore wasn’t so damn high, that’s where we’d be living right now.

    mosque in Arab quarter, singapore
    mosque in Arab quarter
    Little India, singapore
    colourful facades of Little India
    China town, singapore
    China town
    Laksa soup
    Laksa

     

    JUNE…Bali

    Aaah, Bali… I found it just as beautiful as when I left it behind 5 years ago. It has changed a lot, but the essence is still present. The smells of frangipani and incense, the sounds of gamelan, the bright green rice fields… We found Ubud the perfect place to spend a few month living and working remotely. So we moved and started a new life on the islands of the gods.

    vanilla pods, Bali
    vanilla pods drying in the Balinese sun
    Balinese gateways
    Balinese gateway

    Stay tuned for part II of the year!