A visit to the indigenous market of Otavalo in Ecuador is probably one of the most advertised activities in Quito’s guest houses and travel agencies. It’s said to be one of the largest and oldest indigenous market of South America and every single guide book will tell you it’s a must-do if you’re visiting the Quito area. That’s exactly the reason why I wasn’t sure if I’d want to go. (more…)
Tag: South America
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What it’s like to live in Puerto Cayo, Ecuador
You’ve probably never heard of Puerto Cayo.
Don’t feel bad, most people haven’t. Puerto Cayo is a sleepy fishing village on the Pacific coast that doesn’t have much more to offer than long stretches of sandy beach spotted with seashells and colourful pebbles. Yet, it’s where we chose to settle down for the largest chunk of our 4 month stay in Ecuador earlier this year. We loved our calm beach life and even though there was absolutely nothing going on, we were sad to leave. . Living in Puerto Cayo was a unique experience. It was life at it’s simplest.
So what is it like to live in an Ecuadorian beach village as a digital nomad?
As usual, we rented in a furnished house – Pasatiempo del Sur. This time, it was a beautiful apartment by the beach with a pool, a garden and a killer view over the sun setting in the ocean.
on the bottom floor, our beautiful apartment/house with shared pool, garden and pets A typical day would look like this:
WAKE UP SLOW – coffee and breakfast on the terrace
What I love and miss most about living in the tropics, is how early the days start. Your biorhythm adjusts to the sun, which rises and sets at approximately the same hour every day. There was no need for an alarm, we’d just wake up naturally around 7AM every morning as the sun brightened the sky. I would get out of bed with enough energy to make a fruit salad for breakfast to accompany our morning coffee/tea.
WORK-WORK-WORK
As the mornings are the coolest time of the day in Ecuador, we’d try to get as much work done as possible before temperatures would rise to their maximums.
Douglas ‘slaving away’ in the morning. LUNCH BREAK + SIESTA
By 11 AM the sun would burn so intensely, it was impossible to get anything done. The entire village would be deserted. Not just for lunch breaks but to escape the heat of the equatorial sun. We’d have a simple lunch at home or take a motor taxi to one of the many restaurants -if I can call them that- on the beach. But truthfully only a mad dog would be out and about around noon.
After lunch comes… siesta time! We would not actually sleep (although that happened a few times) but unwind, digest and escape the burning heat outside.
reading in the hammock BACK TO WORK + BEACH BREAK
By 3PM, it’s still steaming hot outside but more tolerable already. We’d stay inside and get some more work done. Once it started to cool down around 4 or 5 PM, we’d take a break to go for a splash in the ocean. How could you not, when you have a beach all to yourself?! We’d paddle in the waves and swim for about half an hour before returning to our work day.
Splashing around, jumping and screaming like kids. As far as the eye can see, not a soul in sight After our swim, we would work outside; Douglas on his laptop and I cleaning the pool, watering the plants or doing some housework.
while cleaning the pool I would find these crabs, drifted off from the ocean APERO WHILE WATCHING THE SUNSET
We’d end our work day by pouring ourselves an “apero” (a drink before dinner) at sunset. Time to sit back and relax. The fact that there was nothing else to do, helped us appreciate nature’s spectacle. Whether we’d be home or in one of the fish shacks on the beach, we never missed the show!
The sunset in Puerto Cayo was different every evening. I was amazed at how beautiful and -in a way- exciting life can be without entertainment, bars, friends… Just peace and quiet DINNER
Sometimes we’d cook our own dinner, other times we would go to one of the few restaurants in town. Options on their menus were limited to fish, fish, seafood or fish. Meat is a scarce commodity in Puerto Cayo.
The food shacks on the beach during the day offering fish, fish or fish During the weekends we would laze around the pool, take long strolls on the beach, play with the dogs, go out for brunch or visit a neighbouring town. We learned to be content with uneventful weekends and enjoyed the low-keyed weeks as they drifted by.
Fancy and delicious brunch in restaurant ‘El Alebrije’ on a sunday morning. Eggs Benedict and Bloody Mary. Since our lifestyle doesn’t allow us to have pets, we were thrilled to have our landlord’s dogs running around the grounds. Temporary pets to play with! We learned all about the “no-alcohol-on-sundays” policy… On a sunday… Living in Puerto Cayo was a perfect way to get lots of work done and to save some money, as there were no distractions. We took it easy and truly lived in the moment which was a marvellous experience. We laughed and played like unconstrained children. We created our own joy and excitement. We let go of our worries and returned home with renewed energy and a new sense of serenity. In a way, living in Puerto Cayo was like going on one of those “find yourself” retreats. Another enrichment in our lives.
Could you see yourself living in a tiny town where there is nothing to do? Do you think you could find happiness in a place like Puerto Cayo?
The post “what it’s like to live in Puerto Cayo, Ecuador” first appeared on Travel Cake.
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Mindo for the broke, Ecuador
Tucked away in the cloud forest, on the slopes of the Ecuadorian Andes lies the sleepy town of Mindo: the perfect spot for a range of adrenaline sports. Whether it’s tubing, canyoning, mountain biking, canopy flying or hiking, you can do it all in Mindo.
Because I was physically unable to partake in any of these activities, I had a far more mellow “Mindo experience” than most visitors. And yet, Mindo was my favourite place in Ecuador. There is something magical in the air in Mindo.
our cabin in the cloud forest Since adventure sports were not an option for me, I created what I would call a “Mindo for the broke”-itinerary. Though we weren’t actually broke, I figured this is exactly how I would spend my time if I had run out of money: skipping all the pricier adrenaline activities. Despite that they’re relatively cheap in Ecuador, they’ll still eat away at your budget.
My pseudo ‘Mindo for the broke’ itinerary mainly consisted of…
Eating.
Broke or not, a woman’s got to eat, right?!
The restaurants in Mindo serve excellent food! I had a meal in almost every restaurant and café in town -not very hard considering the small size of Mindo. Every single dish I tried blew my socks off. Admittedly, that might have something to do with the fact that we arrived in Mindo after having lived almost two months in a small isolated beach town with limited food options.
Some of the most impressive dishes were the steak in coffee sauce in El Quetzal, and the Mindo burger slathered in chocolate barbecue sauce in Inti Killa. Incredible!
German inspired plate of finger food in ‘the beehive’ delicious veggie burger. Not the best looking plate of food we’ve had but we attacked the best dishes with such haste, it was impossible to photograph them before eating. Coffee and cakes.
This is where you can see this is a pseudo budget itinerary. Because let’s face it, coffee and sweets breaks aren’t really a necessity in life… (or are they?)
But I figured, if I can’t have the adrenaline rush, why not indulge in a sugar and caffeine rush?! As it rains quite often in the cloud forest, what better way to wait for the rain to blow away with a warm drink and some carbs? El Quetzal served the best brownie I’ve ever eaten. EVER! I would go back to Mindo just for that brownie!
on a quest to find Mindo’s best brownie. This wasn’t it. But that view though… carrot cake and a latte while we wait for the rain to stop Joining a chocolate tour.
From bean to chocolate bar to best brownie ever. After having eaten that amazing brownie, I noticed El Quetzal also offers 6$ chocolate tours. It sounds like a cheesy touristy thing to do -and in a way it was- but I was curious to find out all about the chocolate making process. So I caved and joined an elderly group of tourists on the tour.
raw, fermented cacao beans Hiking to the waterfalls.
Just outside of town, there’s a series of alluring waterfalls surrounded by lush forest foliage. The hike was mild enough that we were able to really take in the crisp mountain air, chase butterflies and splash our faces with cool spring water. To get to the waterfall trails, we took a ride in a cable car soaring high above the canopy, side by side with the wild toucans. The ride could be considered an adrenaline inducing activity by an acrophobe but to everyone else, it can only be described as a pleasant and stunning short jaunt. The hike is free, the cable car ride costs just a few bucks.
the cable car to get to the waterfalls an easy trail to follow dense cloud forest chasing waterfalls in Mindo Hummingbird gazing.
My favourite activity in Mindo was relaxing in the hummingbird garden. We paid a dollar or so to enter the garden and had a drink surrounded by hundreds of hungry hummingbirds. I can’t say I’ve ever experienced anything quite like this before. The buzzing sound of their wings flapping at incredible speed, left me tantalised. I could have easily sat there all day just marvelling at nature…
To find the hummingbird garden, walk into any tourist office in town and tell them you want to see the birds. They’ll point you in the right direction.
hungry hummingbirds And thus ended our 4 relaxing days in Mindo lindo. Full stomachs, no adrenaline, lungs filled with fresh air and a warm and fuzzy feeling when thinking about Magical Mindo.
Are you into adventure sports?
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5 Quirky things to do in Bogota, Colombia
Every time I spend a reasonable amount of time in a big city, I try to look for some funny, cool, quirky things to do besides the general tourist attractions. As this was my second time in Bogotá, it didn’t take me long to have completed the list of “must-sees”.
Though I found Latin America to be generally less quirky than Asia, there are still plenty of unusual, zany thing to be found. This is what I found during my week in Bogotá…
1. For women only: Stay at the Women’s Wellness Hostel Spa
The women’s wellness hostel spa focusses on the well being and relaxation of female travellers, more specifically women who have just undergone cosmetic surgery and those travelling to Bogotá for child birth. First of all, let me tell you this: cosmetic surgery tourism, is absolutely a thing in Colombia. You’ll find women from all over the country as well as international travellers flocking to the capital for their ‘grade A’ surgeries. Colombia is reputed to have some of the best cosmetic surgeons in the region at a fair price (about one third of the price in the USA or Europe).
Now, there’s no need to get “work done” to stay at this hostel as they welcome ALL women, surgery vacation or not. They have a small gym, a beauty salon and a homely spa to offer their guest some relaxing “me-time”. I stayed a couple of nights (FYI, I had no surgery done, it just seemed fun to stay at a women’s only hostel for a change) and indulged in a spa night: sauna, massage by the chiminea, full body scrub, chocolate body mask and candlelit jacuzzi. I had the spa all to myself and was guided by a masseuse with golden hands who took care of me so well, I felt like royalty. The rates per night are hostel rates so don’t expect a fancy spa… It’s more like a cosy home stay.
jacuzzi fit for a queen… The room was small but tidy; perfect to reconnect with myself after a lot of traveling. The hostel is far from the centre though, so if your mind is set on exploring the old centre, this is not the place to be. If you’ve already visited Bogotá and are in town just to catch your flight, it’s definitely a spot to consider.
the single room, Colombian breakfast (huevos revueltos, arepa and hot chocolate with panela, fresh juice), the massage table by the chiminea Rates are approx. 26$ for a double room, 21$ for a single, breakfast included. You can book with them directly or through your usual hostel booking site. Calle 159 A N° 22 – 11, Bogotá.
2. Beer and explosives: Play a few rounds of Tejo
A game where beer flows heavily and explosives spark up continuously, what could possibly go wrong? Tejo is one of Colombia’s traditional ancient sports. Though the sport/game in itself doesn’t necessarily involve drinking, the informal tournaments today are often played while consuming (lots) of beer. To play the game’s simplified version, contestants throw a round metal puck, a tejo, across the lane to hit a target about 20 meters away. What’s the target? Small triangular envelopes filled with gun powder secured with clay on a board. Each time your tejo hits the gunpowder an explosion occurs and you score points! With the explosions come cheering, laughing and -there it is- large quantities of beer.
ready to play gunpowder envelope and tejo Tejo has become a popular backpackers’ activity and many hostels organise “tejo nights” with a “drink-all-the-beer-you-can” formula.
3. Dunk your cheese in a cup of hot sugar water: Aguapanela con queso
You can try aguapanela all over the country, you could even find it in other Latin American countries but it’s said to be a Colombian speciality. Hot aguapanela is made by melting some ‘panela’ into hot water. Panela is a product made from sugar cane, tasting somewhat similar to brown sugar. Supposedly, it boasts lot’s of healthy components such as vitamin C (more than in fresh orange juice) and rehydrating minerals. I don’t know, it tasted just like sugar to me. Aguapanela can be drunk cold, perhaps with a squeeze of lemon or hot, with a splash of (chocolate)milk. According to Colombian tradition, hot aguapanela is best enjoyed by dunking a chunk of fermented cheese in your cup. For someone like me, who has mostly given up sugar, this was an absolutely undrinkable concoction. But definitely worth a try if you’re looking to attempt new things and are interested in the country’s traditions.
Aguapanela con queso. Source 4. Quadruple your spare change on the streets: Gamble on a guinea pig
The concept is simple, a man on the street lays a bunch of numbered plastic cups upside down in a circle. You place your bet, thus your spare change, on top of what you think will be the winning cup. The host of the game then releases one of his guinea pigs who will chose the winning cup. If the rodent enters the cup your change is sitting on, you are the winner and you will receive 4 or 5 times the money you bet. You lose your change if the guinea pig doesn’t chose your cup. Of course the odds are not very favourable and these animals are trained, so it’s not really a trustworthy game, as with most street games. It is an entertaining street act however. You should see participating as dropping a few coins in the hat of a street artist. If you are concerned about animal cruelty, I can’t really say what these animals’ lives are like, but they all looked healthy, well fed and groomed.
tourists en locals in full suspense… You can run into these games on the streets of Bogotá as well as in other Colombian cities.
5. Dine and Dance in hell, purgatory or heaven: Andrés D.C.
I wouldn’t know how else to describe this restaurant other than quirky. Andrés D.C. prides itself with 4 floors of total madness. The top floor represents heaven and as you lower down, you’ll reach earth, purgatory and eventually hell. Upon entering the restaurant, you won’t know where to look: the decor is insane featuring all kinds of kitsch trinkets, all matching the floor’s theme. Then, there is the staff bouncing around in wacky outfits (think disco dude or lady from a Botero painting- with fake, disproportioned arms and behinds). Once you’re seated, try to chose an item from the menu… I think it’s the longest menu I’ve ever seen: it’s a bout 30 pages long. While you try to make what seems like an impossible choice, the staff will serenade you, make you dance, bring props for you to wear… They’re not just your waiters, they are your entertainment for the night.
the crazier, the better serenaded by the entertainers You never know what might happen next while you’re sipping on your “lethal mojito”. If the loud music, the laughter and the cocktails have given you an appetite for a dance, just head to hell where you can devilishly swing your hips while you wait for your food. The food is very tasty but let’s face it, you don’ t really dine here for the grub… It’s the atmosphere and the original concept that make this restaurant worthwhile.
lively dance floor (source) Andrés D.C. is extremely popular, so make sure you have a reservation or you’re in for a very long wait. Now that’s what I would call hell. Calle 82, No. 12-21, C.C. El Retiro, Zona Rosa, Bogotá
Have you been to Bogota? What did you think of the city?
The post “5 Quirky things to do in Bogotá” first appeared on Travel Cake.