It was a sunny September friday when we set off to the North of Holland. Having never been that far up our neighbouring country, we starting packing our warmest jumpers and shawls. “After all, with a name that roughly translates to “Freeze land”, it must be exceptionally cold there…” we nodded jokingly.
I had been wanting to check out Friesland for a while, but had never made it happen. This time around, things were different; now that our Frisian friends and neighbours in Bali had just moved to their homeland, we had very good reason to drive all the way out there.
Besides reconnecting with our friends, we were determined to get to know the local culture. Did you know Frisians have their own flag, cultural habits and language? A language incomprehensible to Dutch speakers…
We were lucky to arrive during the Flaeijel cultural festival, celebrating and showcasing traditional and historical Frisian countryside culture. Most attendees were dressed up in traditional garment, speaking Frisian (as they usually do in daily life) and participating in rustic activities. My only regret was not being able to find the costume rental booth or else I would have exchanged my modern clothes for a peasant attire!
We spent a couple of hours learning and experiencing the old ways of the Frisian country side. A trip into the past.
women doing laundry the old-school wayhorseback riding in a dress can be done!veggies for saleFrisian cookingbeans with sweet syrup, bacon and gherkinsstar anise is one of the spices often used for deserts and drinks“spin your own jumping rope”pimped up tractorsclog bootsreal vintagenever realised how small a pony isdistilling the local “moonshine”……and the barkids fun fairtraditional dance and music
What a great way to get to know Friesland! After attending the festival, we continued our journey into Frisian culture through food and drink.
We started with a classic Dutch snack: “Bitterballen“, deep fried balls of bread crumbs with a meat ragout filling. It might not sound appetising but if home made, they can be extremely tasty.
Next we feasted on a juicy Frisian steak from local grass fed cows, absolutely delicious.
For dessert we tried Frisian sugar bread (Fryske sûkerbôle) which apparently has a different recipe than other sugar breads -it’s 40% sugar to be more precise. We continued with “Oranjekoek” another sweet treat -perhaps slighty too sweet- usually served with coffee in the afternoon. To end the evening we drank “Dokkumer coffee“, a coffee infused with sugar and a spiced liquor called Berenburg.
from top left: dokkumer coffee, toasted Frisian sugar bread with ice cream, bitterballen and Heineken, Frisian grass fed beef
Though we didn’t have time to visit much more of Friesland, what we saw did not disappoint. The small quaint villages radiating tranquility, the plentitude of waterways and the slightly different culture really gave me the idea I hadn’t spent the weekend in the Netherlands but in a different country.
The next Flaeijel festival will take place on 24-26th September 2015.
Did you know about Friesland? Have you been to a “live museum”?
The post “a peek into Friesland’s past” first appeared on Travel Cake.
I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.
I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…
JANUARY…
SULAWESI- INDONESIA
I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.
Torajan funeraltarsier
MALAYSIA
As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.
proud devoteefor the sake of devotionthe end of the pilgrimage
FEBRUARY…
BALI
As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…
last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)
MARCH…
HONG KONG
A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!
visiting Chinese templesorder after order of new flavours
MACAU
During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.
wide sunny boulevardsgamble paradise
APRIL…
BELGIUM
Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.
deliciously gross Belgian farea long time since I last saw spring
MAY…
ITALY
By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.
the red city seen from aboveincredible food and wine in Bologna
JULY-AUGUST…
DRC
Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!
It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.
Congo’s stunning naturesafety firstkids in the villagecrossing the Congo-Nile
UGANDA
On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.
buying goat brochettes from the bus windowLake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele
RWANDA
Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.
sunset in Gisenyi
SEPTEMBER…
FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS
To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.
catching up in front of an old country houseclog bootsold fashioned fun
OCTOBER…
MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO
Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.
As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.
kids in Beirat, Albania
GREECE
I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.
Athens by nightwine tasting in the country side
NOVEMBER…
IRAN
Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!
Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.
inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahanfarmer in Kashanout of this world rooftops
DECEMBER…
ECUADOR
The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.
What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…
on the look out for a new life in Ecuador
How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?
Bologna is often referred to as the culinary capital of Italy. Because of its abundance and variety in high quality cuisine, the city was nicknamed “la grassa”or litteraly “the fat” during the Middle Ages. It was this little fact that had me browsing for flights and checking my calendar. Since I’m currently staying in Europe for a few months, I couldn’t possibly resist a food trip to Italy, could I?
So I packed some loose fitting clothes and off I went. Due to work obligations, I only had a short 3 days of spare time, thus limited eating opportunities. I didn’t get a chance to sample all that the Emilia-Romagna region has to offer, but I can tell you this:
La grassa does not disappoint!
Some of the staples I tried:
The Italian cliché: espressos and cappuccinos
It’s probably one of the first things that come to mind when you think of people-watching on an Italian terrace, whether you like coffee or not. The espressos were just as strong and tiny as I’d expected them to be and the cappuccinos had a perfect steamed-milk foam collar. For someone who doesn’t usually drink coffee, I sure had lot lot of caffeine racing through my system. Good thing it’s absolutely not done to order a coffee after 12pm or else I would have been bouncing off the walls all throughout my stay.
pre-breakfast espresso, comes with a glass of water to consume BEFORE the espresso to clear the palatepost breakfast cappuccinoplaying with foam
Cured meats
Cured meats are not my thing. I hardly ever eat any, but these… These I could eat all day, everyday. It made me wonder if we can even call what we’re consuming cured meats. Typical for the region are pancetta, mortadella, different types of salami, prosciutto, zampone… Most eateries offer mixed platters which allows you to sample the different types of artisan meats. For cured meat fans, this is heaven on earth!
delicate and refined in taste
Parmesan
The home of parmesan cheese! This is where the good stuff is made. I wasn’t fortunate enough to visit the parmesan factory, so I did the next best thing; I waited for the crowds to leave and went to the market near closing time. I talked to the vendors who were relaxed since there was no line of people waiting to get served. I asked them questions about the cheese making process and tried different types of parmesan, to find the one I liked best. The vendors were very informative and eager to share their knowledge.
The “real” balsamico vinegar from Modena
Of course I’ve had balsamic vinegar before, but the real balsamic vinegar carries history and is made according to tradition. It tastes similar to your supermarket variety but really, it’s almost a different product. Did you know the traditional balsamic vinegar goes through an ageing process? Well, I didn’t! I tried a 25 year old vinegar. An incredible explosion of aromas! When I heard it pairs well with chunks of parmesan, I just had to try this unusual combination. Just exquisite.
parmesan with balsamic vinegar
Lambrusco
I tried out lots of Italian wines, a frizzante (sparkeling) Lambrusco is my favourite. I was surprised to learn how widely exported this wine is, as it was first I heard of it. There are white and rosé varieties but the sparkling red is really something unusual and particularly tasty.
refreshing glass of Lambrusco
The original Bolognese sauce
So, what we know as spaghetti bolognese turns out to be… a big fat lie. There is no such thing as spaghetti with bolognese sauce. The original sauce, called ragù, was created in Bologna, explaining the ‘Bolognese’ part of the name, but is not -and should never be according to the Italians- served with spaghetti. It has to be served with (preferably fresh) tagliatelle. I must say, I do prefer ragù with tagliatelle than with spaghetti.
ragù alla bolognese
Fresh pasta
Tortellini, tagliatelle, ravioli… You see them in shop windows looking so fresh, so delicious. I couldn’t resist and bought a wide variety to cook at home. Yes, I left Italy with a suitcase full of pasta.
Piadina
A flatbread typical of the Romagna region. It’s what you would have instead of a sandwich or a wrap. The toppings vary, but are mostly local products. It doesn’t look like anything extraordinary but looks can be deceiving. The freshness of the products and their delicate taste elevate this snack to a higher level. Make sure to get a piadina that is freshly made.
piadina on the gofreshly made with local toppings
Parma ham
There are so many different types, with different ageing processes I couldn’t chose which one to get. That’s why I asked the shopkeeper to give me a few slices of his favourite one. There is a factory in the town of Parma open to visitors where you’ll learn all about Parma ham a.k.a proscuitto. I wasn’t able to visit, but the tastings were good enough for me.
shop selling all the local delicacies
Gelatto
Another classic in Italy. So rich, so flavourful.
chocolate-hazelnut gelatto
Aperitivo
This was my favourite part of the trip. Every day, from around 5.30pm to 9pm most places in Bologna offer food with every drink you order. Some places offer a buffet, others have a fixed aperitivo dish of the day. Everybody flocks to these places after work to have drinks, a chat and something to eat. The food is included in the price of the drink. Aperitivo is the social meeting the culinary and that is perhaps why I enjoyed it so much.
aperitivo at Marsalino
Fresh produce
The markets simply impressed me. With fruits and vegetables looking so vibrant and smelling so fresh, all I wanted to do was to cook. The market inspired me to create… Not only dishes, but just about anything. If I lived here, I would never set foot in a supermarket. At least not for produce.
at the marketlearning Italian vocabulary
There are so many other foods typical of the region that I have yet to taste. I like to think it’s a reason to go back.
Have you eaten in Italy? What is your favourite Italian dish?
One of my favourite things about living in Europe is being able to change environments in the blink of an eye. If ever in need of foreign food, unfamiliar faces or a change of surrounding architecture, all you need to do is hop on a short flight out of your country to find yourself in an entirely different backdrop. Whether you’re just staying for the weekend or taking a day or two off work, you return energised and fully replenished thanks to the change of scenery.
Because I wanted to experience as much of the country as I could in a short amount of time, I decided to move around a little. Without having too much of a schedule I managed to see a little more than just one city, unlike usual short getaways.
DAY 1: PORTO
Thanks to the abundance of low cost flights, I was able to snatch return tickets to Porto for less than €60 per person. When it comes to picking a weekend destination, one of my main requirements is low transportation costs.
With its cobbled hilled streets, blue-and white tiled walls and a fantastic river side sunset, I found Porto the ideal place to start a trip in Portugal. Its small size allows you to stroll around and take in the atmosphere without feeling the pressure of having to visit a long list of must-see attractions.
Admire the architecture, try Port wine- the national drink, taste some local staples like grilled sardines or for the more adventurous, “tripas a modo de porto”: tripe cooked with dry beans, vegetables, pig’s trotters and offal. Although the latter dish is probably quite tasty, to me, it translated to ‘guts, pork feet and other organs’-stew, so I didn’t try it. If any of you have, please let me know if I missed out on anything!
The city really livens up in the evenings, cafés and restaurants are full of chitchatting Portuguese and internationals. Bars open late with customers often standing just outside talking, drinking, laughing on the street.
blue-and-white tiled walls of the Capela das Almasa travel nerd’s dream come true: drinking Port in Portosardinhas asadas -charcoaled-grilled sardinesthe Douro river banks by night
DAY 2: TRAIN TO LISBON
There are direct trains heading to the country’s capital from Porto every hour. The journey lasts around three hours and costs about €25 one way. We left Porto after breakfast and arrived in Lisbon in time for lunch.
I’ve said this before: I love cities by the ocean or the sea, Lisbon is no exception. The ocean brings a sense of cool and a laid-back atmosphere to the city.
A short visit doesn’t really do Lisbon justice considering all she has to offer; history, unique architecture, delicious comfort food, picturesque neighbourhoods, stylish shops and a vibrant party scene. Nonetheless, it’s a good introduction.
Lisbon’s roofshilly streetsPort wine, Portugal’s pridewalking around at night
DAY 3: LISBON ON FOOT AND BY TRAM
Yet another city that lends itself perfectly for exploration on foot. Lisbon is bigger than Porto though, so your feet will be thankful when you jump on to one of the signature yellow trams. We spent the day in and around Belém visiting castles, picnicking in the botanical gardens, trying the famous Pasteis de nata, which are not to be missed.
Monumento a los Descubridorestram 28 takes you around the histrocial centre of the citypasteis de nata from BelèmBelèm Tower
DAY 4: DRIVING TO THE DOURO VALLEY
On day four we rented a car and drove north, enjoying the beautiful scenery on the way to the Douro Valley. This area was recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and is THE place to be for wine tourism in Portugal.
It is crucial to have your own transportation when visiting this region as it allows you to move freely and make as many photo stops needed. As you drive down the scenic route, signs lead the way to a plentitude of vineyards. Pop in and visit one or several of the wine estates. Most of them welcome visitors and even have (free) guided tours around the premises, explaining the types of grapes and the manufacturing process. Sampling is of course, part of the learning process… But don’t get too carried away, you still have to drive! We spent the night in Amarante, one of the towns in the area.
Douro valley during springlearning about Port at a wine estatetasting Port straight from the caskroad trip funspending the night in Amarante
DAY 5: HOME BOUND
We made sure to use a rental company that allowed us to pick up the car in one city (Lisbon) and drop it in another (Porto). So on day 5 we were able to drive the car to the airport in Porto where we returned it. And so ended a perfect short getaway in Portugal.
IMPORTANT:
Ladies, leaves your heels at home. I’m serious, these parts of the country are absolutely not heel friendly. You’ll ruin your shoes and you’ll be too focussed looking down to enjoy the surroundings!
“Warsaw? Why are you going to Warsaw? It’s so boring! Go to Krakow instead!”
According to a large poll by Trip Advisor conducted in 2008, Warsaw is the third most boring city in Europe, Brussels being first. I refused to listen to the opinion of connoisseurs and booked a €20 return flight to Warsaw, Poland. I hoped to get sunny winter days, but my friend and I were in for heavy snow and temperatures dropping to -7 °C. Yikes, not the best city trip conditions. We packed our best winter attires and took off.
cold and gloomy
The city surprised me with its young and dynamic atmosphere.This is a city on the rise! There are plenty of quaint bars, restaurants and shops. The food is delicious: well seasoned and hearty. And here I was thinking I’d be eating bland boiled potatoes, cabbage and fatty sausage -aah, the clichés.
plate of delicious Polish treats
Krakow may very well be more exciting, but Warsaw wasn’t boring. Although we did wonder a few times where everyone was; the main shopping street being dead quiet on a Saturday afternoon. I blame the freezing temperatures.
We took the “orange umbrella” free walking tour through the city. That’s where we learned all about Warsaw’s interesting history. Howit was completely devastated during WWII and how architects used paintings and old photo’s to reconstruct the old city centre. I suppose you know you’ve become an adult when stories which used to put you asleep in your high school history class, suddenly sound so fascinating.
the old towncolourful reconstructed facades
As captivating as the tour was, the last 15 minutes were unbearable. The cold was taking its toll. Our hands and feet were completely numbed so we there was “obviously no other choice” than to stop at a bar to warm up. “Vodka will do the trick”, our spirited guide promised… It did. Vodka at 1 pm? In Poland, that’s OK.
vodka at 1 pm in Karmnik
We spent the remainder of the day, meandering the streets of the city centre, taking enough breaks in hip coffee shops to keep warm.
meanderingtea time
We visited the well known “Uprising Museum” which I strongly recommend, especially if you could use a history brush up. It’s such a wonderful source of information and illustration. I was particularly touched by the old video fragments showing some of the war atrocities in loops. The museum is packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage, artefacts… So don’t make the same mistake we did: do come more than 40 minutes before closing time! Entrance is free on Sundays!
We stayed with a fun-loving Varsovian who, one evening, introduced us to the world of Polish vodka. We headed to one of the cheapest bars in town for a lesson in “vodka drinking etiquette”. These are the lessons I somehow managed to remember very clearly:
Lesson 1: never drink vodka alone, it’s supposed to be a social thing
Lesson 2: never refuse a drink unless you’re pregnant or on antibiotics
Lesson 3: preferably drink in public
Lesson 4: only drink your vodka straight. Diluted versions and cocktails are for losers. Flavoured vodka is OK.
flavoured vodka
Lesson 5: the vodka has to be drunk in one gulp, no matter how big the glass is (usually it’s 50 ml though)
Lesson 6: make a toast before you drink. “Na zdrowie” [nazdrovje], meaning health, will do just fine.
bottoms up!
Lesson 7: drinks are immediately refilled
Lesson 8: eat Polish snacks in between the shots
raw minced meat and eggperfect drinking snack
Lesson 9: -one I had to learn on my own- unless you’re Russian, don’t to try to keep up with a Pole
One thing I liked about this destination for a city trip, is the fact that there is no pressure of big highlights you must see in just a few days. This leaves you time to get the feel of the city and spend some quality time with your travel mate.
Four days spent in Warsaw, not one moment of slight boredom. It might not be the most exciting capital to live in, but it’s definitely a pleasant and fun city to visit.
Have you been to Warsaw? Did you find it boring? Have you been surprised by a place recently?
