Tag: Quirky

  • 5 Quirky things to do in Bogota, Colombia

    5 Quirky things to do in Bogota, Colombia

    Every time I spend a reasonable amount of time in a big city, I try to look for some funny, cool, quirky things to do besides the general tourist attractions. As this was my second time in Bogotá, it didn’t take me long to have completed the list of “must-sees”.

    Though I found Latin America to be generally less quirky than Asia, there are still plenty of unusual, zany thing to be found. This is what I found during my week in Bogotá…

     

    1. For women only: Stay at the Women’s Wellness Hostel Spa

    The women’s wellness hostel spa focusses on the well being and relaxation of female travellers, more specifically women who have just undergone cosmetic surgery and those travelling to Bogotá for child birth. First of all, let me tell you this: cosmetic surgery tourism, is absolutely a thing in Colombia. You’ll find women from all over the country as well as international travellers flocking to the capital for their ‘grade A’ surgeries. Colombia is reputed to have some of the best cosmetic surgeons in the region at a fair price (about one third of the price in the USA or Europe).

    Now, there’s no need to get “work done” to stay at this hostel as they welcome ALL women, surgery vacation or not. They have a small gym, a beauty salon and a homely spa to offer their guest some relaxing “me-time”.  I stayed a couple of nights (FYI, I had no surgery done, it just seemed fun to stay at a women’s only hostel for a change) and indulged in a spa night: sauna, massage by the chiminea, full body scrub, chocolate body mask and candlelit jacuzzi. I had the spa all to myself and was guided by a masseuse with golden hands who took care of me so well, I felt like royalty. The rates per night are hostel rates so don’t expect a fancy spa… It’s more like a cosy home stay.

    Women's wellness hostel spa, Bogota
    jacuzzi fit for a queen…

     

    The room was small but tidy; perfect to reconnect with myself after a lot of traveling. The hostel is far from the centre though, so if your mind is set on exploring the old centre, this is not the place to be. If you’ve already visited Bogotá and are in town just to catch your flight, it’s definitely a spot to consider.

    Women's wellness hostel spa, Bogota
    the single room, Colombian breakfast (huevos revueltos, arepa and hot chocolate with panela, fresh juice), the massage table by the chiminea

     

    Rates are approx. 26$ for a double room, 21$ for a single, breakfast included. You can book with them directly or through your usual hostel booking site. Calle 159 A N° 22 – 11, Bogotá.

     

    2. Beer and explosives: Play a few rounds of Tejo

    A game where beer flows heavily and explosives spark up continuously, what could possibly go wrong? Tejo is one of Colombia’s traditional ancient sports. Though the sport/game in itself doesn’t necessarily involve drinking, the informal tournaments today are often played while consuming (lots) of beer. To play the game’s simplified version, contestants throw a round metal puck, a tejo, across the lane to hit a target about 20 meters away. What’s the target? Small triangular envelopes filled with gun powder secured with clay on a board. Each time your tejo hits the gunpowder an explosion occurs and you score points! With the explosions come cheering, laughing and -there it is- large quantities of beer.

    tejo, Bogota
    ready to play
    tejo
    gunpowder envelope and tejo

    Tejo has become a popular backpackers’ activity and many hostels organise “tejo nights” with a “drink-all-the-beer-you-can” formula.

     

    3. Dunk your cheese in a cup of hot sugar water: Aguapanela con queso

    You can try aguapanela all over the country, you could even find it in other Latin American countries but it’s said to be a Colombian speciality. Hot aguapanela is made by melting some ‘panela’ into hot water. Panela is a product made from sugar cane, tasting somewhat similar to brown sugar. Supposedly, it boasts lot’s of healthy components such as vitamin C (more than in fresh orange juice) and rehydrating minerals. I don’t know, it tasted just like sugar to me. Aguapanela can be drunk cold, perhaps with a squeeze of lemon or hot, with a splash of (chocolate)milk. According to Colombian tradition, hot aguapanela is best enjoyed by dunking a chunk of fermented cheese in your cup. For someone like me, who has mostly given up sugar, this was an absolutely undrinkable concoction. But definitely worth a try if you’re looking to attempt new things and are interested in the country’s traditions.

    Aguapanela con queso
    Aguapanela con queso. Source

     

    4. Quadruple your spare change on the streets: Gamble on a guinea pig

    The concept is simple, a man on the street lays a bunch of numbered plastic cups upside down in a circle. You place your bet, thus your spare change, on top of what you think will be the winning cup. The host of the game then releases one of his guinea pigs who will chose the winning cup. If the rodent enters the cup your change is sitting on, you are the winner and you will receive 4 or 5 times the money you bet. You lose your change if the guinea pig doesn’t chose your cup. Of course the odds are not very favourable and these animals are trained, so it’s not really a trustworthy game, as with most street games. It is an entertaining street act however. You should see participating as dropping a few coins in the hat of a street artist. If you are concerned about animal cruelty, I can’t really say what these animals’ lives are like, but they all looked healthy, well fed and groomed.

    Guinea pig Bogota
    tourists en locals in full suspense…

    You can run into these games on the streets of Bogotá as well as in other Colombian cities.

     

    5. Dine and Dance in hell, purgatory or heaven: Andrés D.C.

    I wouldn’t know how else to describe this restaurant other than quirky. Andrés D.C. prides itself with 4 floors of total madness. The top floor represents heaven and as you lower down, you’ll reach earth, purgatory and eventually hell. Upon entering the restaurant, you won’t know where to look: the decor is insane featuring all kinds of kitsch trinkets, all matching the floor’s theme. Then, there is the staff bouncing around in wacky outfits (think disco dude or lady from a Botero painting- with fake, disproportioned arms and behinds). Once you’re seated, try to chose an item from the menu… I think it’s the longest menu I’ve ever seen: it’s a bout 30 pages long. While you try to make what seems like an impossible choice, the staff will serenade you, make you dance, bring props for you to wear… They’re not just your waiters, they are your entertainment for the night.

    the crazier, the better
    the crazier, the better
    Andres D.C., Bogota
    serenaded by the entertainers

     

    You never know what might happen next while you’re sipping on your “lethal mojito”. If the loud music, the laughter and the cocktails have given you an appetite for a dance, just head to hell where you can devilishly swing your hips while you wait for your food. The food is very tasty but let’s face it, you don’ t really dine here for the grub… It’s the atmosphere and the original concept that make this restaurant worthwhile.

    lively dance floor (source)
    lively dance floor (source)

     

    Andrés D.C. is extremely popular, so make sure you have a reservation or you’re in for a very long wait. Now that’s what I would call hell. Calle 82, No. 12-21, C.C. El Retiro, Zona Rosa, Bogotá

    Have you been to Bogota? What did you think of the city?

     

    The post “5 Quirky things to do in Bogotá” first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • A peek into Friesland’s past, The Netherlands

    A peek into Friesland’s past, The Netherlands

    It was a sunny September friday when we set off to the North of Holland. Having never been that far up our neighbouring country, we starting packing our warmest jumpers and shawls. “After all, with a name that roughly translates to “Freeze land”, it must be exceptionally cold there…” we nodded jokingly.

    I had been wanting to check out Friesland for a while, but had never made it happen. This time around, things were different; now that our Frisian friends and neighbours in Bali had just moved to their homeland, we had very good reason to drive all the way out there.

    Besides reconnecting with our friends, we were determined to get to know the local culture. Did you know Frisians have their own flag, cultural habits and language? A language incomprehensible to Dutch speakers…

    We were lucky to arrive during the Flaeijel cultural festival, celebrating and showcasing traditional and historical Frisian countryside culture. Most attendees were dressed up in traditional garment, speaking Frisian (as they usually do in daily life) and participating in rustic activities. My only regret was not being able to find the costume rental booth or else I would have exchanged my modern clothes for a peasant attire!

    We spent a couple of hours learning and experiencing the old ways of the Frisian country side. A trip into the past.

    Friesland traditional
    women doing laundry the old-school way
    Friesland traditional
    horseback riding in a dress can be done!
    Friesland traditional
    veggies for sale
    Friesland traditional
    Frisian cooking
    Friesland tradtional food
    beans with sweet syrup, bacon and gherkins
    Friesland traditional
    star anise is one of the spices often used for deserts and drinks
    Friesland traditional
    “spin your own jumping rope”
    Friesland traditional
    pimped up tractors
    Friesland traditional
    clog boots
    Friesland traditional
    real vintage
    never realised a pony was so small
    never realised how small a pony is
    Friesland traditional
    distilling the local “moonshine”…
    friesland taditional
    …and the bar
    Friesland traditional
    kids fun fair
    Friesland traditional dance
    traditional dance and music

     

    What a great way to get to know Friesland! After attending the festival, we continued our journey into Frisian culture through food and drink.

    We started with a classic Dutch snack: “Bitterballen“, deep fried balls of bread crumbs with a meat ragout filling. It might not sound appetising but if home made, they can be extremely tasty.

    Next we feasted on a juicy Frisian steak from local grass fed cows, absolutely delicious.

    For dessert we tried Frisian sugar bread (Fryske sûkerbôle) which apparently has a different recipe than other sugar breads -it’s 40% sugar to be more precise. We continued with “Oranjekoek” another sweet treat -perhaps slighty too sweet- usually served with coffee in the afternoon. To end the evening we drank “Dokkumer coffee“, a coffee infused with sugar and a spiced liquor called Berenburg.

    Frisian food
    from top left: dokkumer coffee, toasted Frisian sugar bread with ice cream, bitterballen and Heineken, Frisian grass fed beef

     

    Though we didn’t have time to visit much more of Friesland, what we saw did not disappoint. The small quaint villages radiating tranquility, the plentitude of waterways and the slightly different culture really gave me the idea I hadn’t spent the weekend in the Netherlands but in a different country.

    Friesland

    The next Flaeijel festival will take place on 24-26th September 2015.

     

    Did you know about Friesland? Have you been to a “live museum”?

    The post “a peek into Friesland’s past” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • 2014 Travel Summary

    2014 Travel Summary

    I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.

    I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…

     

    JANUARY…

    SULAWESI- INDONESIA

    I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.

    Torajan funeral
    Torajan funeral
    tarsier back in his sleeping tree
    tarsier

    MALAYSIA

    As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.

    pleasure
    proud devotee
    Thaipusam
    for the sake of devotion
    inside the cave
    the end of the pilgrimage

     

    FEBRUARY…

    BALI

    As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…

    last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences
    last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)

     

    MARCH…

    HONG KONG

    A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!

    Hong Kong
    visiting Chinese temples
    Eating Honk Kong
    order after order of new flavours

    MACAU

    During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.

    wide sunny boulevards
    wide sunny boulevards
    Macau casino
    gamble paradise

     

    APRIL…

    BELGIUM

    Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.

    Julien'ke
    deliciously gross Belgian fare
    a long time since I last saw spring
    a long time since I last saw spring

     

    MAY…

    ITALY

    By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.

    Bologna
    the red city seen from above
    Bologna antipasti
    incredible food and wine in Bologna

     

    JULY-AUGUST…

    DRC

    Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!

    It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.

    Congo's stunning nature
    Congo’s stunning nature
    safety first
    safety first
    kids in the village
    kids in the village
    crossing the Congo-Nile
    crossing the Congo-Nile

    UGANDA

    On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.

    buying goat brochettes from the bus window
    buying goat brochettes from the bus window
    Lake Bunyonyi
    Lake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele

    RWANDA

    Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.

    LAKE kivu, Gisenyi
    sunset in Gisenyi

     

    SEPTEMBER…

    FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS

    To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.

    catching up in front of an old country house
    catching up in front of an old country house
    Friesland
    clog boots
    FRIESLAND
    old fashioned fun

     

    OCTOBER…

    MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO

    Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.

    As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.

    kids in Beirat, Albania
    kids in Beirat, Albania

     

    GREECE

    I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.

    Athens by night
    Athens by night
    wine tasting in the country side
    wine tasting in the country side

     

    NOVEMBER…

    IRAN

    Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!

    Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.

    Sheik Loftollah Mosque
    inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahan
    Kashan
    farmer in Kashan
    Kashan
    out of this world rooftops

     

    DECEMBER…

    ECUADOR

    The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.

    What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…

    on the look out for a new life in Ecuador
    on the look out for a new life in Ecuador

     

    How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?

    The post ‘2014 Travel Summary‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • 5 Quirky Things to do in Bali

    5 Quirky Things to do in Bali

    There is a great misconception that Bali is just another tourist mecca full of beautiful clichés. Granted, there is a great deal of mass tourism, but there is so much more to it than that. Finding authenticity is a walk in the park and going off the beaten track is just as easy. Quirks are plentiful and one needn’t look far to find some. Besides the cultural oddities, there are tonnes of fun off-beat activities you can participate in. These are my favourite quirky things to do in Bali.  

    1. Mud wrestling under a full moon at the Green school

    The greenest school on earth lies somewhere between rice fields and Balinese villages. Built entirely out of bamboo, the Green School boasts an endangered bird rehabilitation program, an organic vegetable garden grown by its students, an enormous crystal radiating positive energy on the playground, a natural swimming pool and… a mud pit. Students, teachers and visitors regularly engage in playful mud wrestling tournaments. Several times a year, a “Mepantigan full moon performance” is held on the school grounds. Mepantigan is a traditional act combining Balinese martial art, fire dance, drama and music. Those who don’t mind getting their clothes dirty, can join the mud fun after the performance.

    playing in the mud. photo by Ana Brananova
    playing in the mud. Mind the school’s horse in the background. Photo by Ana Baranova

    Even if you’re not lucky enough to be in town during the mud fight, I recommend visiting the Green School anyway. A sustainable international school running on solar energy with “a vision of a natural, holistic, student-centered learning environment that empowers and inspires its students to be creative, innovative, green leaders.” A school so incredibly cool, you’d want to turn into a kid just to attend. Visit their website to find out more or to book a tour.

    we could all learn something at the green school
    we could all learn something at the green school

     

    2. Party hard… and sober on a Sunday morning

    Every Sunday, Ubud’s most popular yoga spot organises a smashing Sunday Dance. Starting at 11AM, expats, locals and visitors come together to party like there is no tomorrow. People let go and let lose, moving their bodies to the music in which ever way they feel like, expressing themselves through movement. There is screaming, crying, laughter, sweaty hugs, glitter… Anything goes. There is only one rule: no talking. As the dance progresses, the music gets more intense and the dancers feed on each other’s energies. Unbelievably powerful! I’ve added this to the list of quirky things because, if you only ever danced in amongst a crowd at a club or at a party and preferably in slightly intoxicated condition, your first minutes there can feel quite awkward and bizarre. As soon as you realise nobody is there to observe or judge, you loose your inhibitions naturally. Put on a smile, dance and spend the rest of your day on cloud nine.

    good vibes on sunday morning
    good vibes on Sunday morning

     

    3. Laugh your head off during a laughing yoga session

    Laughter strengthens your immune system, boosts your energy, diminishes pain and protects you from the damaging effects of stress. This is the mantra that inspires the biweekly laughing yoga gatherings in Ambar Ashram. Imagine a grass field covered with 100 Balinese on a yoga mat, laughing themselves silly. Doesn’t that sound like the place to be?! Even though it’s a local activity and the spoken language is Indonesian, foreigners are more than welcome… Laughter knows no language. There’s more to the class than laughter, but I don’t want to reveal any spoilers. Classes are free and last an hour. Bring a yoga mat if you have one and leave with a relaxed mind and body!

    After laughing yoga with Peter
    After laughing yoga with Peter
    laughing it out
    laughing it out

     

    4. Sip on fancy ‘cat poop coffee’

    I haven’t gone mad, I consciously  wrote “cat poop coffee”. That’s right, Kopi Luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world, is actually “civet cat poop coffee”. Some explanation… As night falls, wild civets roam around the “Luwak “coffee plantations to feed on the plants’ best coffee beans. The civets having partially digested the beans, excrement them around the plantation. The farmers then search for and pick up the stools. Once dry, the remaining beans are picked out by hand, then peeled and roasted. The result: world’s most exclusive coffee. “Is it any good?”, you want know… Well I’ve heard mixed reviews: some find it exquisite, others find it too bland. It’s not a coffee that will have you bouncing off the walls, but I enjoyed its mildness. It definitely doesn’t taste as gross as the title could have you thinking, but I’m not sure it’s worth the €6/100gr to me.

    coffee eating civet, sadly encaged as a show piece for tourists
    coffee eating civet, sadly encaged as a show piece for tourists
    dried civet feces
    dried civet feces
    kopi luwak- cat poop coffee
    kopi luwak- cat poop coffee

     

    5. For women only: enjoy a steam sauna… for your most intimate organ

    This one actually originates from a traditional Javanese beauty and bridal ritual. I’ll keep the story short. Just before marriage or after giving birth, Javanese women undergo a cleansing ritual. Only wearing a sarong, the women are seated on a chair with a hole. In that hole lies a clay plot with heated charcoal and herbs creating rising fog which “cleans” the women’s private parts. This procedure called “ratus”, is also practiced in Bali and is available in local spa’s. You don’t need to be a bride to enjoy the Javanese beauty secret. Now every adventurous woman can give it a go. It takes about 45minutes and in some modern spa’s you will get a shoulder massage while you get “steamed”. My ratus experience was a very pleasant one. After feelings of awkwardness sitting half-naked on a smoking chair, came relaxation and bliss. I felt rejuvenated and fresh. To be repeated! I underwent the treatment at Midas Spa in Ubud.

    get the picture?
    get the picture?

      These are just a few of the unusual things to do in Bali. Plenty more to discover throughout the island and the entire country!

    Which one of these quirks would you attempt?   

    The post “5 Quirky Things to do in Bali first appeared” on Travel Cake.

     

  • Torajan Death Rituals

    Torajan Death Rituals

     

    “Would you like to go to a funeral, m’am?”

    Not exactly the question you’d expect when stepping out of a long distance bus… And yet, what this man was proposing, is quite normal in Tana Toraja. In fact, funerals are the “main attraction” in the region. Visitors mostly come to learn about the Torajan culture in which death happens to play a central role. The Torajans are known for their elaborate traditional funeral rites. Tana Toraja, which means land of the Toraja people, is located in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.

    Tana Toraja, Sulawesi
    arriving in Tana Toraja, Sulawesi

     

    Intrigued by this culture, we agreed to the invitation and headed to the funeral only minutes after dropping our bags at the hotel. Luther, our guide, advised us to gift a few packs of cigarettes to the mourning family. “Cigarettes”? How ironic. He also told us we were very lucky; we were going to the funeral of a very rich lady who had long been chief of village…

     “Lucky”? What a confusing use of words…

    The deceased lady’s family welcomed us warmly and insisted we’d sit with them. We were offered tea and biscuits while encouraged to chat about our countries. This was all very awkward. The taboo around death in Western cultures was clearly nowhere to be found around here.

    The Torajans seemed very “relaxed” about it all. That might have something to do with the fact that when people pass, they are not buried straight away. Their families continue to work in order to gather all necessary funds to finance the funeral. It may take months or years before the burying rituals begin, depending on the family’s cash flow.

    Meanwhile, the bodies are embalmed, wrapped in cloth and kept in their traditional houses or ‘tongkonan’, under the same roof with their kin. Their spirits then dwell around the village until the burial. The dead aren’t considered dead, but merely ‘incurably ill’ until the funeral is complete. They are treated as though they were still alive. Family members take turns in sitting with the body, brining it food, water and cigarettes on a daily basis. Not doing so would lead the deceased to think they aren’t cared about and he/she would bring bad luck to the village.

    tongkonans, Sulawesi houses
    tongkonans

    In Torajan culture, the funeral is the most important ceremony in life. One leads his life in order to have the biggest, most elaborate funeral possible. The 100 or more guests always bring a gift: cigarettes, rice, a pig or a buffalo according to their financial ability. The funeral lasts 11 days and consists of serval rites.

    Tanah Toraja, Sulawesi
    highly prized buffalo being gifted to the family
    Toraja funeral, Sulawesi
    chanting and dancing
    Tanah Toraja, Sulawesi, bull fight
    buffalo fighting is part of the funeral rites
    toraja funeral, Sulawesi
    a procession of the closest family members
    spiritual men funeral procession, Sulawesi
    spiritual men lead the procession

     

    Torajan funerals are a bloody affair. The deceased’s soul is believed to travel to the afterlife on a buffalo or horse. How do you bring livestock to your afterlife? By sacrificing it, of course. Therefore, the more buffalo offered, the more reassured the family will be that their loved ones will reach his or her final destination safely. Apart from buffaloes, the dead will also need to bring along their most valuable possessions, including the rest of their livestock. This is one of the most important funeral rites: pigs and buffaloes are slaughtered by the dozens. Their souls join their owners while their flesh is distributed with the living family and guests. How’s that for a party favour, a big bag of meat…

    pigs market, Sulawesi
    gifted pigs
    toraja funeral, Sulawesi
    the meat is shared amongst guest and the blood is kept in bamboo

     

    Because buffaloes come with a high price tag, their horns are cut off and kept as a “trophy”. They are hung up on the deceased tongkonan and represent the family’s wealth. The more horns on your house, the wealthier your family.

    buffalo horns, sulawesi
    small buffalo horns
    tongkonan, toraja house, Sulawesi
    tongkonan of a wealthy family

    When the funeral is completed the bodies are buried. Not under the ground, but in a cave or in a hole carved in a cliff. Family members craft a “tau-tau”; what could be compared to an avatar, representing the deceased. His/her spirit is believed to inhabit the tau-tau. They are placed on a balcony in front of the graves. Several times a year, after the rice harvest, family members ask their ancestors, inhabiting the tau-tau, for well being, good crops and healthy children.

    graves in the cliff, Sulawesi
    graves in the cliff
    tau-tau, toraja, sulawesi
    tau-tau and graves
    tau-tau, Sulawesi
    tau-tau; meaning not human, nor puppet.
    tau-tau, Sulawesi
    more live like tau-tau

     

    The burying ritual for babies is less complex. The lifeless babies are embalmed and placed in a sitting position in a carved hole of a large tree. The type of tree used a for the burying is a specific one; a thick white fluid oozes from its bark when cut. The fluid symbolises the milk the tree will feed the young child with. It embraces the babies by growing around them and closing the hole. It becomes their mother. These trees are considered sacred and may not be approached by outsiders but we were allowed to visit an old tree which is no longer in use.

    baby graves, Sulawesi
    baby graves

     

    Attending a funeral is weirdly enough, a top attraction in Tana Toraja. I found it such an incredible enrichment to experience how this culture deals with death and what place it has in their communities. Watching the slaughtering was bit harsh, however that’s easily put into perspective since it’s so authentic. This is not some show put on for tourists, this is Torajan reality. People are so friendly and open, I quickly felt at ease.

    ‘Funeral season’ is in July and August, but there are funerals throughout the year. Tourists are welcome to attend them and are treated as honoured guests. Make sure you bring a gift to the family! There isn’t really a dress code, but obviously you should dress modestly and respectfully. If you have a black t-shirt, wear it; you’ll fit right in. The city of Rantepao is a good base to explore Tana Toraja.

     

    Would animal sacrificing stop you from attending a local ritual?

    The post ‘Torajan death rituals‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Spiritual Tourism: Thaipusam 2014

    Spiritual Tourism: Thaipusam 2014

    “Experiencing the festival of Thaipusam”… Yes!! Another travel wish come true. A few years ago, upon doing some research on my travel destination Malaysia, this festival had spiked my interest. I was quite upset when I found out I was just a few weeks late for one of the country’s biggest cultural/religious festivals. Six years later, I was pressed against strangers on a train to Batu Caves where Thaipusam was taking place.

    Upon arrival I was overwhelmed by strong smells of fried spices, Indian tunes blasting from every stall and an overly excited crowd. I threw myself into the mass to get as close to the action as I possibly could. It was steaming hot and slightly claustrophobic at times, but it was an experience I will never forget.

    fresh chili's
    fresh chili’s

    Thaipusam is a Tamil celebration of faith and gratitude which takes place every year between January 15th an February 15th. It’s the commemoration of the occasion where Hindu goddess ‘Parvati’ gave ‘Murugan’, god of war, a “vel” (spear) so he could vanquish the evil demon ‘Soorapadman’. Devotees make a vow to offer a “kavadi” i.e a physical burden, to request a favour from the god Murugan. The participants then start their journeys 48 days before Thaipusam by ‘cleansing’ themselves through fasting, praying and observing celibacy. On the eve of the big day, devotees carrying their kavadi, start their 15km pilgrimage- in this case from the main temple in the centre of Kuala Lumpur to the Batu Caves. The intensity of the kavadi ranges from carrying jugs of milk (symbol of purity and virtue) to followers taking a vow of sacrifice at every step by piercing their skins with hooks and spears.

    carrying milk to the temple
    carrying milk to the temple
    oranges and miniature milk pots to weigh down the hooks
    oranges and miniature milk pots to weigh down the hooks
    beginners start with lighter weights
    beginners start with lighter weights
    pilgrimage done on the knees with "lime hooks"
    some chose to pilgrim on their knees
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    milk and jasmin flowers
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    cheeks pierced with a spear
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    intense kavadi
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    chains to control pain level intervals

     

    Most of them bring along some kind of an entourage playing music, singing and encouraging them by repeatedly shouting the words “vel vel!” in a trance-like way.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    mersmerizing drum beats
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    dancing to the rythms

     

    Though it’s less common, women and children also take part in the procession. Most of them carry milk, but every now and then you can spot a few of them enduring the pain.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    vow of silence

    Thaipusam, Malaysia

    Thaipusam, Malaysia

    The participants numb their pain with natural herbs and consecrated ashes, moreover helping them to reach a state of trance.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    ashes and ‘special’ cigars
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    taking a smoking break
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    stupefied devotee
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    devotee’s spirit transformed into that of a sleeping snake

    A strange mix of suffering, exhaustion, pleasure, trance, curiosity and spiritual bliss come together to form a peculiar and intense atmosphere during the procession.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    suffering

    Thaipusam, Malaysia

    exhaustion
    exhaustion
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    pleasure
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    trance
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    curiosity
    spiritual bliss, Thaipusam, Malaysia
    spiritual bliss
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    priest attending to devotee before entering the caves

    The final sacrificial act of faith is for devotees to climb up a 272 step stairway to deliver their offerings in the Batu Caves temple.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    Murugan guarding the steps to Batu Caves
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    inside the cave

    Once inside the caves, the milk is offered and the hooks are taken down. Consecrated ash is sprinkled over the devotees’ hooks and piercing before they are removed. No blood is shed during the piercing and removal.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    priest removing the hooks

    TIPS

    Leave your “germophobia” at home. If you want to get a sense of what’s going on, you’ll be close to people. Very close. You’ll be covered in sweat and I guarantee you it won’t necessarily be yours.

    To get to the Batu Caves, take the KTM. It’s not a good idea to take a car or a taxi. Unless you  just love traffic jams.

    The procession goes on all throughout the day. However, it’s best to get an early start as it can get pretty hot during the day; 8.30-9.00AM is a good time to arrive.

    In order to get some good pictures, start at the road, where devotees begin the last leg of their journeys. Then slowly make your way to the entrance of the caves.

    You can climb up the steps with the devotees and enter the caves, but beware, this can be a long process. Unless you’ve never been in the Batu Caves, there not really much to see inside except… People… Oceans of people!

    Once you’re ready to leave the scene, don’t take the KTM back. There is a long queue to enter the train which will be over packed. Instead catch a bus going direction ‘town’.

     

    Would you consider going to a crowed cultural festival like Thaipusam?

     

  • Myanmar: land of infinite Buddhas

    Myanmar: land of infinite Buddhas

    Myanmar is often called “land of a thousand pagodas”. Thousand is definitely inaccurate. It surely feels like ‘a thousand’ should be replaced by “hundreds of thousands”. The Burmese dedicate their lives to honouring Buddha and constructing pagodas/stupas/temples. Each stupa or temple is filled with relics or statues of Buddha. Building a stupa ensures the believers of Myanmar several extra karma points, allowing them to be reincarnated on a higher spiritual level in their next life and eventually reach “nirvana”.

    Traveling through the country, I noticed that the Burmese have a unique way of practicing the Buddhist religion. In this version, there is a heaven and a hell. Hell is depicted as a dark place deep under the ground where sinners reside temporarily before being reincarnated. Terrifying monsters spend their days torturing said sinners. Heaven is portrayed as a beautiful setting in the sky where there is no hunger, no pain and no sadness. It’s both a mental and physical nirvana.

    very graphic depiction of hell
    very graphic depiction of hell

    Back to the stupas and why there are so many. Constructing a stupa dedicated to Buddha clears off a large amount of committed sins. It was confirmed to me that most people in Myanmar believe that building and sustaining several temples outweigh a lifetime of thieving, cheating, misconduct or even murder. Although the latter would require an extra large amount of temples. One still has a good chance of crossing the gates to the afterlife paradise providing he/she has enough cash to build a couple of pagodas.

    I can’t help but wonder if that’s the reason why everywhere you turn, there are stupas, temples and absurd amounts of Buddha statues. Is this evidence of unacceptable behaviour of the rich and powerful throughout the ancient and modern history of Myanmar? I wonder…

    grave Buddha's
    grave Buddhas

    After 3 weeks in Myanmar, I remember thinking: “how is this even possible?!” We would be in the middle of nowhere, not one human soul to be detected, yet there it was… A temple emerging from the untamed wilderness, covered with thousands of tiny Buddhas. Mind blowing at first, overly predictable later. I found out the hard way there is such thing as a “Buddha overdose”. I could no longer be bothered to enter another temple or look at another Buddha.

    Places of prayer are one of my favourite points of interest in foreign countries. I have seen countless temples in India and Nepal, huge amounts of cathedrals in Europe and a large number of mosques in the “Arab world”, but never have I seen this many houses of prayer in one country.

    ancient Buddha's
    ancient Buddhas
    mini
    tiny wall Buddhas
    standingb
    32 storey Buddha
    graves2
    Buddha highway
    can you spot the 15 Buddha's
    can you spot the 15 Buddhas?
    tt
    the smaller the Buddhas, the more you can fit in one temple
    reclining Buddha wth bizarre entrance
    reclining Buddha with bizarre entrance location
    wise
    accidental Buddha

    sitting

    Even though by the end of the trip I had seen enough Buddhas for the next few years; I enjoyed getting to the point of disinterest.

    Buddha wallpaper
    Buddha wallpaper

    Have you ever gotten insensible to a local custom or curiosity while traveling?

     

     

  • 5 Quirky Things To Do in Manila

    5 Quirky Things To Do in Manila

    Manila is a vibrant city where everything seems to be possible. People are loud, full of life and know of no embarrassment- at least that’s what it looks like to an outsider. I only spent a couple of days in the metropolis, but I immediately LOVED it. It’s fun, hectic, crazy and weird. There’s no other place quite like it. So I put together a list of the quirky things I did in Manila, hopefully it inspires you to discover some of Manila’s quirks!


    1. See the pro’s at work after a cockfight 

    Although cockfighting is popular in several countries, there aren’t many places where it’s perfectly legal to do so in the foreseen cockpit arena’s. In these arena’s the cock’s fight till death.

    But what happens to the wounded winner? I always thought they were put out of their misery, plucked and prepared for dinner. But that’s not the way they do it in Manila! The wounded winners are brought to the “cock surgeons” who patch them up quite professionally. Their wounds are examined meticulously, cleaned up with antiseptic and carefully sown up… All right outside the arena. And here I thought the excitement of a cockfighting arena was quirky enough… These improvised surgery stations haven proven to be even more so.

    cockfighting arena
    at the arena
    cockfighting Philippines
    cockfighting as a national sport
    the doctor will fix it
    the doctor will fix it
    chickencut
    cleaning up
    chicken wounded
    closing up the wounded winner

    TIP: “La Loma cockpit” in Quezon City is a great place to see the fights and the surgeons at work.

     

    2. Be a rockstar for a night with “Rockeoke”

    Why would you settle for regular karaoke when you can have a live band headbanging while accompanying your singing? Filipinos take their karaoke very seriously and have taken it to the next level. A live band plays the requested songs and all you have to do is (get drunk first,) look fabulous and sing your heart out.

    everyone can be a rockstar...
    anyone can be a rockstar…

    TIP: during the past decade, at least half a dozen people in the Philippines have been murdered after singing Frank Sinatra’s “My Way”. The ‘my way murders’ have even caused the song to be banned from some karaoke bars. You’ve been warned!

     

    3. Visit the Chinese Cemetery, where graves have toilets and air-con

    The Chinese like to treat their dead well. VERY well. Their graves are mind-boggling! Most are equipped with at least a toilet and a mailbox- how else would you send letters to your deceased family members? Some have air-conditioning, others are two stories high. Some have jacuzzis and wifi, others even have a full time guard standing by their “entrances”… Most of these graves are bigger and more luxurious than my house!

    It’s not everyday you get to roam around endless streets of fancy shmancy zombie cribs”. Visiting this cemetery is not only quirky; it’s a real eye-opener on cultural differences regarding the after-life.

    chinese graveyard, manila
    basic toilet and sink
    chinese graveyard, manila
    wo storey church-like grave
    chinese graves, manila
    personalised simple graves
    chinese graves, manila
    mansion graves with pet dogs

    TIP: the cemetery is enormous. You could walk around for days and still not see everything. Hire a guide at the entrance for a maximised experience. They are caretakers of the cemetery and know the area by heart. They will show you the most impressive graves and will tell you all about the why’s and the how’s. Besides they are hilarious, in true Filipino-style.

     

    4. MC for a night at a Midget Boxing Match

    Yes, midget boxing… It’s a thing. A humorous show where little people get into the boxing ring and smash each other’s faces. Cheering on the fight is the crowd, which consists of one more-or-less lost, older tourist and 30 prostitutes working at the bar. They cheer on their favourite fighter and laugh like the world will end if they don’t. ‘Weird’ doesn’t even begin to describe this. As soon as the fight is over and the “staff” notices you’re not there to get a girl, the prostitutes go back to their seats and continue doing what they were doing before you entered; looking incredibly bored. Four of them enter the ring and perform some badly choreographed dances, similar to the ones you did at a 3rd grade dance recital; very PG.

    Although it’s more an act than an actual fight, it’s bizarre enough to be funny. They might offer you to MC the boxing match. Go ahead if you dare!

    midget boxing, manila
    welcoming sign right outside the bar
    midget boxing, manila
    midget boxing
    midget boxing, Manila
    we have a winner!

    If you care to see a short video Midget Boxing Manila

    TIP: you’ll find this place in the Burgos area. The entrance is free but the drinks are very pricy so order a beer and consider it your entry ticket. 

     

    5. Slurp up the embryonic juices of a young duck

    Walking around in the streets, you will hear vendors shouting: “Balut! Balut!” Street food that’s worth a try, a true delicacy in the Philippines. It’s a developing duck embryo that is boiled alive and eaten in the shell. Add salt and vinegar, slurp up the broth surrounding the embryo, then eat the embryo. Not for the faint of heart!

    TIP: eating this peculiar snack can get pretty messy if you’re not a seasoned balut-eater. Have something ready to wipe your hands and face with.

    note the staring eye
    note the staring eye

     

    A special thanks to my friend Aubrey Aliguyon for pointing me in the right direction for a quirky Manila experience

    Do you enjoy doing quirky things while traveling?

    The post “5 Quirky Things To Do in Manila” first appeared on Travel Cake.