Tag: Photo Essay

Flash visit to Kotor, Montenegro

It hit me on my way to the airport: in just a few hours I would be landing in Montenegro and I knew nothing about the country. I had no idea where to go after my flight would land in Podgorica, the country’s capital. With no guide book at my disposal and flaky internet on my phone, I was left feeling quite careless and well… incredibly stupid. I nervously texted my friends updating them on the situation. Judging from my agitation, some thought I was headed to outer space. There you have it: seasoned travellers get nervous about travel too!

I landed in Podgorica and decided to skip the capital.

Despite the flaky internet I mentioned earlier, I had managed to read a few articles about Podgorica. The reviews were not good. As much as I would have wanted to find out for myself if Podgorica really is a hole, I only had 4 days to spend in the country and I wanted to use them wisely. From the airport, I hopped into a taxi to the bus station where I immediately boarded a bus to Kotor. People spoke some English, they were helpful, the sun was out and the ride was smooth. Easy! “What was I even stressing about?” I smiled the entire ride. Have I been traveling in “difficult” countries so often that I was so amazed at the ease of all this? I wonder.

As we approached Kotor, I was stunned by the incredible views of the bay. I pulled out my glasses (aka my binoculars) and scotched myself to the window. If you ever take this ride, sit on the left side! (drivers side).

approaching the bay of Kotor

I arrived in Kotor after sunset and found my way to a charming hostel where I was warmly greeted with a shot of rakia. Once settled down, I put together a little ‘game plan’ to help me maximise my short time in Montenegro.

LEARN- Visit the old town of Kotor

The fortified city of Kotor is small enough to visit in an hour or two. There is a plentitude of well preserved churches, squares and museums explaining the history and culture. I took my time to wander around the narrow streets of the old town squeezing in lots of coffee breaks to read up on the city’s history. Seeing it was low season, the huge groups of day-trippers were scarce. The old town is so clean and charming, it doesn’t seem real. It has a very high Disneyland factor.

a square in the old town

learning the city’s history

the city’s sailboat marina

on the edge of the old town

Aside from a quick history lesson, I also learned why there is such a large cat population in Kotor. They are everywhere, inside and out. They are accepted by the inhabitants, sometimes even treated as royalty. After bumping into a cat museum and a souvenir shop that sells cat-shaped everything, I just had to know; what’s the deal with these cats?

Apparently the city had a serious rat problem during the Middle Ages. Because the rats were bearer of disease such as the plague, they brought in a bunch of cats to deal with the problem. Till this day, the people of the old town appreciate the help of the cats and treat them well in return. At least so goes the legend…

decoding the ‘cats mystery’

MOVE- Wake up early to get crisp morning view from the fortress

Overlooking the bay of Kotor lies an abandoned fortress which in itself is not specifically beautiful but the view… It took me about 30-45 minutes to reach the top taking lots of photo breaks on the way. I was humming the ‘Game of Thrones’ theme the entire way up. I could have sworn I was on set! But my favourite part was simply sitting on a ridge just below the fortress, catching my breath and enjoying the silence accompanied by a spectacular view.

view from the top

a steep 40 min climb

humming the ‘Game of Thrones’ theme song

TASTE- Visit a market and buy some local produce

Though I wasn’t overwhelmed by Kotor’s produce market located right outside it’s walls, it was an opportunity to taste some of the region’s specialities such as smoked dried ham, home made olives, cheese made from boiled milk… I left the market with a full stomach.

fresh organic produce

cheese sampling

EXPLORE- Take a trip to somewhere amazing

Armed with some of the produce I had bought at the market, I took a bus to Sveti Stefan, a small islet reputed as one of the most stunning sights in Montenegro. I tend not to give too much importance to statements like these, so I was expecting it to be overrated. I was dropped off the bus by the side of the road somewhere near Sveti Stefan. I found my way down to the pebbled beach. Gasp… Gorgeous! The fact that I had the beach all to myself made the place even more impressive! Gotta love low season! The island itself is an expensive hotel (cheapest room starts at €950 a night), so you can’t enter the island unless you’re a guest. The beach was good enough for me though! I swam, pick nicked and let the sun caress my skin. Pure bliss.

Sveti Stefan in the distance

taking a dip on my private beach

glass of local rosé for sunset overlooking the island

LAUGH- Make some friends

Staying at the most popular hostel in town made this task quite easy. There were travellers from all over the world, most of whom were on a long jaunt through Europe or the Balkans. Because I was traveling solo, I didn’t mind joining the group on a pub crawl, even though I was the “grandmother” of the gang. Another night was spent chatting the night away with travellers while drinking beer under the starlit sky with views over the city.

star gazing with new friends

free shot for every beer- pub crawl

DARE- Say yes to something unexpected

After my day in Sveti Stefan, I waited on the side of the road for a bus to take me back to Kotor. There was no schedule, I just waited around, flagging down every passing bus asking if they were headed towards Kotor. After 15 minutes of waiting and the third rejection, I started wondering if I was indeed on the right track. An elderly man must have seen my slightly worried face and gestured me to enter his car. He spoke no English but used his hands to communicate that he wanted to give me a ride to Kotor. I doubted for a few seconds but then… YOLO, I stepped into the car. We didn’t speak each other’s language, but somehow we managed to talk, laugh and listen to music together. He stopped the car at one of the panorama points so I could take pictures. Had I not followed my intuition and accepted the invitation, I would have never experienced this fun Montenegrin encounter. These are the unexpected meetings that make travel so beautiful.

If you can manage to incorporate the 6 magic words during your stay anywhere (learn, move, laugh, taste, explore, dare), I believe your trip is already successful, no matter the length of stay.

Have you been enchanted by a place after a short visit? Where was it?

The post “Flash visit to Kotor, Montenegro” first appeared on Travel Cake.

November 26, 2014
12 Favourite Destinations

It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.

I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”

“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.

In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.

With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.

While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…

So in no Particular order

1. Oman

I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.

wadi perfect for a dip

2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London

I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.

some amazing food in the area

3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali

This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic

rice fields around Ubud

4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe

As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.

sunset over the Zambezi

5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland

The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.

somewhere along the way

6. Living the island life in Zanzibar

I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.

Zanzibari fishing village

7. Morocco

Every time I go to Morocco I’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.

Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou

8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste

It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventure that made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.

coastline in Dili

9. Hiking Dominica

Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.

every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island

10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel

Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.

quiet streets of the old city

11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela

Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.

Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean

12. Bhaktapur, Nepal

Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!

Bhaktapur in the morning light

I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.

I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.

What are your 5 favourite destinations?

The post “12 Favourite Destinations” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 2, 2014
10 Ways Hong Kong Surprised Me

While I spent quite some time browsing through inspiring pictures and reading many informative articles about Hong Kong, the city still managed to surprise me in several ways.

1. Dim sum heaven

For someone who doesn’t even like dim sum, I was amazed to hear myself say: “Let’s have dim sum for breakfast-lunch-dinner… Yes, again!” I can now say pretentious things like: “I only eat dim sum in HK”. Hong Kong boasts a ton of Michelin starred dim sum at affordable prices. Famous chefs and renowned magazines/newspapers award prizes to their favourite dim sum places. I wanted to try them all but unfortunately, my stomach doesn’t stretch that far.

Michelin star dim sum

glutenous beef fat

steamed meet balls at “One Dim Sum”, tastes much better than it looks!

Douglas vs. Anthony Bourdain

2. Antique shopping in the morning

Arriving in Hong Kong, all I could see were tall buildings; banks, offices theatres, malls apartments… The city has such a modern feel to it, I certainly wasn’t expecting to stumble upon quaint alleyways lined with potted plants, cute stairways and rows of knickknack and antiques stalls. Even though I promised myself not to do any shopping in HK -yeah, right- I couldn’t resist purchasing just a few trinkets.

treasure hunt

near “Hollywood road”

3. The goldfish market

At first, it was all excitement seeing the thousands of goldfish racked throughout the long street. Then I felt uncomfortable seeing all the helpless creatures bumping their foreheads against the plastic windows. But then again… it’s local culture and tradition, does that change anything? The goldfish are bought as good luck charms, but they’re also important for good feng shui in a home. In this area, you can find more than just fish… There are frogs, shrimp, turtles, birds, hamsters, rabbits… Basically, it’s the pets neighbourhood.

long street full of “good luck charms”

creepy frogs

free goldie?

4. Helpful, friendly, non-smiling locals

On several occasions, locals stopped their fast paced treads to ask if we needed help -I admit we looked baffled and lost at times. They would ask us the question, we’d answer thinking a small chat starring “where are you from” would follow, but no… They’d resume their default lives only a split second after we’d state we weren’t actually lost. No smile, no “bye”… they’d just off. I liked it: friendly, to the point and no bullsh*t.

5. Egg waffles

Best eaten warm and plain, the eggette is the most popular street food in Hong Kong. Because they are hollow, I thought it wouldn’t be of my liking- I’m quite difficult when it comes to deserts. I can tell you this: I was already ordering seconds while my mouth was still full with the first bite. This egg waffle really hits the spot after a long day in the city! Simple flavour, light and not too sweet… Give me some more bubble waffles!

crunchy egg waffle

6. Chinese tea traditions

Ok, this wasn’t really a surprise, I knew of the existence of the Chinese art of tea. Yet, I had never seen it with my own eyes. The elegance and refinement in which the Chinese lady poured us a cup of Oolong was so captivating I kept pulling out more teas from the rack for “tasting”… If you’re really into tea, you can book a tea tasting tour where you’ll learn more about the process and traditions. If you just want a taste of the magic, you can walk into a traditional tea store and ask to sample some teas. It’s free, but of course you are expected to buy some brew after an elaborate tasting.

Oolong, the traditional way

Chinese tea

7. Double dekker trams

A perfect fusion between the red British buses and the portuguese trams. I marvelled at the city as the tram unveiled its busy streets and quiet neighbourhoods. Hop on hop off anywhere you want with the octopus card, which I strongly suggest you buy if you’ll be spending a couple of days in and around the city. It gives you access to the metro, busses, trams… You can even use it to pay at connivence stores.

driving through the financial district

view from the top of the tram

8. Hygiene comes first

This is definitely not China! Not only are the streets tidy and organised, there are signs everywhere reminding you that certain things/areas are disinfected several times a day. With such a high population density, I can only applaud it ! Public spaces offer free hand sanitizer and public toilets are clean. It’s no Singapore, but still, it would put any germaphobe at ease.

“germ free” escalators

9. The main attractions are kinda lame

At least, the ones I saw were. The avenue of stars where-amongst others- the famous Bruce Lee statue stands, was filled with pushy loud tourists, making it hard to enjoy the Hong Kong skyline. At the same place, there is a free laser and sound show (the symphony of lights) every evening which is promoted as “spectacular”. The first 30 seconds were impressive… but after that I shrugged my shoulders and kept walking. I promise, it’s not because I’m spoiled, HK expats told me the same thing. Maybe they’re spoiled too? Still worth checking it out, just don’t expect “spectacular”.

everybody wants their picture with the life sized Bruce Lee

romantic junk boats

10. Lots of funny random stuff

I was expecting more kitsch and “Hello Kitty”, but apparently, to get more of that, one needs to go to the “Mainland”, which is how locals refer to China. So no real culture shock, but still, I had a few giggles not really understanding things and wondering… “WHY?”

rich birds order fancy food?

restaurant staff on a break. I actually thought this was a show and that they would burst out singing and dancing. Nope, just napping

in a hip (grown up) accessory store… I’m lost, do any of you know this?

instant Brazilian butt lift, just 3$ at the market

Mufasa now serves as a backpack

Which destination has surprised you? Is Hong Kong on your ‘wish list”?

The post “10 ways Hong Kong surprised me” first appeared on Travel Cake.

April 17, 2014
Birthdays Abroad

The past 7 years I’ve been so lucky to celebrate the start of a new life year abroad, either doing something exciting or lazing in the shade of a coconut tree. Because this year was so different, I thought I’d look back on those past birthdays.

Turning…

…22! Stargazing in Liechtenstein’s Alps

As wild camping is legal in Liechtenstein, my then boyfriend and I made our way to the Alps. We pitched a tent in a beautiful meadow and spent the evening celebrating under the stars with bubbles and smoked salmon. It was my first time camping in the wild and I loved being totally isolated in nature. Though I must admit, there were moments at night where I was convinced a mad serial killer was scratching our tent… Tsss, city girls…

the Alps…

bubbles and salmon

“bathing” in nature

…23! Exploring Marrakech and its bazaars

A birthday in the old city of Marrakech was a perfect ending to a two week trip through South Morocco and Western Sahara. We exchanged our dusty desert clothes for urban wear and spent the evening bargaining in the souk and sampling Moroccan wines on rooftop bars.

Djema el-Fna from rooftop

the damage

…24! Solo in Egypt

Instead of flying straight home after a conference in Egypt, I prolonged my stay to see as much of the country as I possibly could. Birthdays are usually spent with friends and/or family, but that time, it was just me. I was proud to be a 24-year-old assertive and mature enough to ‘survive’ the chaos of Caïro. I was proud to be fit enough to climb Mount Sinai for the sunrise. I was proud to be brave enough to travel solo in an unknown, male-dominant country. I felt lucky to have the freedom to do what I was doing.

fighting off touts around the pyramids

loving solo travel

Holy Mount Sinai

…25! On a 40 hour train ride across India

Being crammed on a stuffy Indian train might be one of my most unglamorous birthdays . A group of Indian men sitting on the bed opposite mine, staring at my every move. Rats sprinting across the wagon, passengers loudly clearing their noses by spitting everywhere, toilet floors inundated with urine… It wasn’t much of a celebration, but rather an extremely long two days to get through. After the 40 hour ride, I was treated to a huge cake and beautiful views over Udaipur.

I can stare right back…

delicious personalised birthday cake

Udaipur

…26! Searching for the best “pasteis” and Port in Portugal

What a road trip; driving from city to city and around the country side, sampling on all the goodness Portugal has to offer. Learning about the Portuguese cuisine and culture was my gift to myself.

Port wine served with a selection of fine cheeses

pasteis for the road

Belèm

…27! Love Cake in Kathmandu

We stalled our big hike in the Himalayas to get mentally ready for the trek. So I spent this birthday in Kathmandu visualising myself on the top of a mountain. I can’t remember specific details about that day except… Except the love cake… A famous chocolate cake that has been mentioned as a must-try since the 70’s hippie trail. I wasn’t expecting much -as usual when it comes to chocolate anything outside of Western Europe- but my mind was blown. I was utterly quiet for a few minutes, couldn’t believe I just tasted what I did. Pure bliss! I must admit, my opinion might have been influenced by the fact that I had been eating nothing but flavourless “dahl bhat” and instant noodles for two weeks, but either way, to this day I still think of the Love cake as my favourite chocolate cake EVER!

Kathmandu

Love Cake

…28! By the pool in Myanmar

With temperatures reaching 40°C, there wasn’t much else to do than lie by the pool in Bagan. Temple visits in the mornings and evenings, cooling off in the swimming pool during the day. A lazy 28th. I was surprised with a gorgeous and elaborate cake… with zero flavour -unless ‘fat’ counts as a flavour. I ended up ~~splitting~~ donating the entire cake to the staff members.

the only way to deal with heat

misleading cake

enjoying a good view

…29! Cheese and wine with family

This year no palm trees, no temples and no exotic food, but something that’s at least just as good, maybe even better: stinky cheese and red wine with my family in Belgium. It might not be a dream destination, but it’s exactly where I want to be!

What about you, is celebrating your birthday at home a “must”?

The post “Birthdays Abroad” first appeared on Travel Cake.

April 9, 2014
Nepal in Pictures

When some friends announced their upcoming months long trip to Nepal, I was immediately transported back to its colourful streets clouded with incense. As soon as I arrived home, I browsed through my photo collection to relive my Nepalese journey. I could almost feel the fresh mountain air filling up my lungs and hear a distant “Ohm-ing”. I thought about the captivating myths and stories on super natural beings and Buddhist/Hindu gods.

Originally, Nepal wasn’t my destination of choice, if it was up to me, I would have chosen to dance samba and drink caipirinhas in Rio, but I was expected on the other side of the world, so I put my wish on hold. I wasn’t particularly psyched to explore Nepal, it was the exact opposite of what I was craving; passion, beaches and loud uplifting music. Despite having heard only great things about the “roof of the world”, I expected to be bored with all that peace and serenity -sometimes I wonder who the hell I was…

I never regretted going to Nepal, it was a destination that surprised me in many ways. Looking back at the pictures now, I start dreaming of going back. I’ve seen most of the attractions, so I’d just go back to… BE. I should only be so lucky to catch a whiff of that pure, crisp air!

serenity in the morning

wise “Baba” giving blessings and life advice

morning prayers

animal sacrifice as part of religion

prayer flags

Boudhanath in Kathmandu

laundry in the clouds

enchanted forest

finding religion on the summit of a mountain

The Himalayas

lake in Pokhara

soaking up the energy around the temples

prayers wheels

classic-and illegal- mode of transportation: on bus rooftops

children making offerings

guardians of the temples

riding the elephant temple guard

Is Nepal on your wish list or are you indifferent? If you’ve been, what did you think?

The post “Nepal in Pictures” first appeared on Travel Cake.

March 4, 2014
Remembering Russia

With all the negative publicity given to the host of the Winter Olympics these past weeks, I started thinking about my own experiences in Russia a few years ago. The unbelievable “fail” photo’s and comments that sports journalists in Sochi have been tweeting got me “LOL’ing” as well as thinking: “why am I not surprised?!” During my travels through Northern European Russia I’ve encountered similarly bizarre scenes. However, when I call that trip to mind, I remember so much more than kitchens in the bathrooms or getting a fork to stir my tea with, because they ran out of spoons…

the restaurant gave me a plastic fork. All the metal ones were used up…

I remember…

A very open and elaborate drinking culture

Straight off the airport, we were walking down the street trying to find our host’s apartment. Noticing we were tourists, a random man stopped us and begged us to put down our backpacks for a minute so we could have a drink. He pulled out a large can of beer from the left inner pocket of his jacket. From the right inner pocket he pulled out two cups and started serving us. He made a toast and we drank the beer. We had been on Russian soil for no more than 30 minutes and here we were, standing on a side walk, sharing a beer with a stranger. Talk about a warm welcome!

vodka love

anytime, anywhere!

The stunning metro stations

The metro stations in St-Petersburg and in Moscow are awe-inspiring. We spent a few hours going on and off the metro just to admire the stations. Why don’t all metro halts in the world have ornate chandeliers?

fancy metro hall

metro station

I remember…

The midnight sun

Traveling past the Arctic Circle in July means it doesn’t really get dark at all. We’d stay up all night and chat with fellow travellers watch the sunset last for hours.

2 am sunshine from the train

never ending sunset in North Russia

The unique and diverse architecture

You might associate Russian architecture with massive concrete blocks with zero personality. Granted, these Sovjet blocks are predominant in the street scene but there is so much more to Russian architecture. The unique styles left a permanent impression on me.

St-Petersburg

St-Petersburg

St-Petersburg

Tver

Moscow

Moscow

I remember…

Staying with locals

We spent most of our nights either on the train or at locals’ houses. Some hosts we found through CouchSurfing, others randomly on the street -such hospitable people! My favourite host, we met and stayed with by chance. He was a man of few words, but when he said something… As you can see from the photograph below, he stayed true to the Russian ‘no smiling in pictures’ rule… Is it because smiling gives you wrinkles? A double chin maybe?

clearly, I have yet to learn how to “smeyes”

Weird breakfasts in hotels

The few times we did stay in hotels, we were offered the strangest breakfasts. It was probably due to our careless hotel choices, but every breakfast that was served to us seemed like a cluster of edibles found in the back of the fridge, stacked on a plate. Once we got a chocolate bar for breakfast…

tiny slice of bread, leftover cumcumber, chocolate covered twinkies, eggs, a large chunk of butter and ham.

I remember…

The Russian delicacies

I was on such an extremely tight budget, I didn’t get to sample much of the staples but I did have the opportunity to try some fine vodka and caviar. Two items I wasn’t fond of before the trip. I realised I probably disliked these because so far I had only tasted a ‘crap quality’ version of them! Also delicious, borscht (beet-cabbage-soup), Pelmeni (the Russian answer to ravioli), blini (Russian pancakes) and the chocolate, which is a big deal for a Belgian to admit.

exquisite vodka

caviar

The old school countryside… On the Solovetsky islands

Picking wild flower from a meadow, wooden cabins, washing our faces in a babbling creek, eating berries all day long, lying in the long grass spotting shapes in the clouds… The Russian country life brings a sense of carefree childhood. It’s probably one of the most cliché descriptions but it really does feel like traveling back in time. There were hardly any cars or telephones, women were washing laundry by hand, kids were running around laughing. It seemed so far away from modern reality, well, the Solovetsky islands are literally far from the modern world.

Solovetsky islands

wooden cabin

fresh strawberries sold on the side of the road

sauna toilet

picking wild flowers

Unfortunately the bad reputation Russia is making for itself is not just about poor accommodation in the olympic village. It’s about corruption, homophobia, violence… Yet, traveling around Russia was one of the most exciting journeys I’ve done so far. I could hardly read the signs and nobody spoke a word of English in most of the places we visited, but somehow we managed to communicate and get along very well despite the fact that I am an obviously foreign-looking woman. This brings me hope that someday- sooner rather than later- Russia will grow to be a more open-minded and tolerant nation.

Have you ever been to Russia? Would you consider going?

The post “Remembering Russia” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 17, 2014
What it’s like to live in Ubud, Bali

I’ve been asked the question dozens of times: “what does your life in Bali look like?” I always answer with a detailed description of Ubud, the beautiful spiritual and artsy town we live in. Either I’m not finding descriptive enough words or words just don’t cut it; the reply usually says: “I still don’t really know what you’re doing there, but you sound happy.”

I guess sometimes, you really need more graphic illustrations…

rice fields around Ubud

We live in a house surrounded by a lush tropical garden where flowers and fruits grow freely.

frangipani, bugainvillea, aloe vera and orchids in the garden

pineapple

banana’s

daily dose of Balinese passion fruit from our garden

It’s cheaper to eat at a local restaurant then to cook your food at home. Since most of the restaurant food is organic and freshly prepared, we eat out most of the time.

gluten free vegetarian burrito

fruit salad with yogurt

tofu and brown rice salad

“healthy” treats

Even though the food is healthy, there are a lot of treats to indulge on; shakes, baked goods, pizza, ice cream, delicious chocolate- approved by Belgians. I try to stay active to minimise the damage. Jogging, dancing and yoga help.

fantastic pizza

We work comfortably from home, every day of the week unless we don’t feel like it; that’s when we “do weekend”.

my office…

The town is quite small and you could walk everywhere, but it gets so hot sometimes, walking is not an options- unless you don’t mind arriving at you destination drenched in sweat. We prefer to drive a scooter.

driving down our car free street

the gas station

Besides work, I’ve been learning Indonesian and taking yoga classes.

Indonesian class

Every now and then, I treat myself to a fancy coffee or a spa treatment.

Sunday capuccino

hot springs

We spend our evenings and weekends pretty much in the same way we used to in Europe: concerts, talks, parties and outings with friends… Only the setting is a little more exotic.

BBQ with friends

dancing at a concert

brunch

a day at the beach

Ubud is an artsy town. Balinese as well as foreigners inspire and get inspired to create.

Blanco museum

anyone can be an artist

The Balinese are very spiritual. They honour their gods with daily rituals and offerings containing food (often rice), flowers, coffee, cigarettes… and incense. Every minute of the day, somewhere there is a stick of incense burning and filling the air with a mystic aroma of frangipani and sandalwood. It leaves you sighing: “Ah… Bali…”

ready for the royal cremation

ceremony

offerings everywhere all the time

A growing New Age community has settled down in Ubud. There are holistic healing centres, energy readings, tantric workshops, Tibetan bowl meditation sessions, energy crystal shops, Kirtan chanting, vegetarian-vegan-raw restaurants. Now, I have an open mind about exploring spirituality and every now and then I join the party, but I must admit I’ve been stunned more than once by some of the methods I hear about in the “neo hippie” community.

event posters

Of course there are some down sides of living in Ubud. Like the construction everywhere, all the time. The traffic jams. The fact that the centre is super touristy-in a cheesy kind of way. The fact that every time I walk down the street, I get at least 10 “taxi maybe?”’s. Just to name a few. That being said, I love living in Ubud and I gladly accept the negatives.

ducks and rice fields

Have you ever lived abroad? Would you like to?

The post “What it’s like to live in Ubud, Bali” first appeared on Travel Cake.

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December 23, 2013
8 Days in South Vietnam

My trip to Vietnam was somewhat of a failed mission. Over the past few years, I have heard so many negative stories about the country and the hospitality of its people. I had heard about absurd scams, aggressive vendors, rigged taxi meters…

The large majority of Vietnam travelers I met, told me horror stories and/or found it the least likable country in Southeast Asia. Then I found out Vietnam had a returning rate of only 5% where as in Thailand for example, the returning rate is 50%.

What gives? I wanted to experience this first hand, to understand. I was ready to face the madness and let my overly assertive alter ego scream back at anyone scolding me for not buying their goods. I wanted to scam the scammer. So I flew to Saigon, eyes wide open to spot the scams, claws out, ready to scratch back.

So what did I find? Nothing of such sorts. I didn’t get scammed, mugged, scolded nor pushed into doing something against my will.

What I found were friendly people who, as opposed to neighboring countries, do a lot less “ass kissing” towards the tourist. I found this attitude rather refreshing, much more natural.

My “mission” didn’t fail entirely; the trip did allow me to get some insights on why so many people have negative experiences in Vietnam. But that should be a blog post on its own.

Meanwhile, I had a “jolly good time” in South Vietnam.

Here is how I spent my 8 days in South Vietnam

Drinking Vietnamese white coffee

Strong black coffee with condensed milk and ice. I wouldn’t normally go for it, but I had no idea what I was ordering. I guess I was just intrigued by the name. Wow! I was immediately hooked and had a least two white coffees a day, every day.

white Vietnamese coffee, an intense pick-me up

Strolling around the old quarter of Hoi An in the evening

Brightly lit lanterns, motor free streets, wishing candles by the river… Even without a love interest around, the streets scream ‘romance’ and had me daydreaming the following days.

lanterns

Hoi An by night

Admiring colourful dilapidated walls

It took my travel partner a short while to understand my fascination with these walls, but in the end she was enthusiastically pointing out these alluring walls to me. “Have you seen that one? What a beauty…”

Contemplating a meal at every street corner

It’s clear that Vietnamese love to eat and preferably do so on the streets. Every other corner, I was greeted by the mouthwatering smells of a steaming bowl of food. All I needed to do was grab one of the tiny chairs, join the locals and dig in. I tried to restrain myself as often as possible, but… They say you should have 5 meals a day, right?

street stall

street dining

puppies love street food

Getting lost in Hoi An’s tiny streets

Of course I didn’t have a map. And I loved it.

narrow streets

Waking up at the crack of dawn to visit the hustle and bustle of the morning markets

surprising popularity of the conical hats

fresh herbs used royally in every dish

“I love the smell of duck and nicotine in the morning…”

the one that got away

Being in awe of the dramatic landscape changes

From the mountainous greenery to flooded rice fields to quiet beaches to… Impressive sand dunes and red dirt! I couldn’t have suspected I was still in Vietnam. Unfortunately, the dunes were partially ruined by mass tourism. Standing among the tall yellow dunes could have been -and probably once was- a mind boggling experience. But the dozens of deafening quads zooming by killed the marvel. The dunes of Mui Né are still worth a visit though.

from coastal villages…

…to sand dunes covered in quad tracks

Discovering a new kind of stress free work ethic

no clients? no stress!

fruit stall napping

taking a break from work

“I’ll be in my hammock, if you need anything”

Exploring the Mekong delta by boat and by bicycle

an easy float on the Mekong

Mekong by bicycle

Indulging in Vietnamese cuisine in Saigon

I met up with a “foodie friend” of mine who has been living in Saigon for ten years. She took me from one incredible restaurant to the next, sampling Vietnamese cuisine, one dish at the time. Vietnamese food was new to me and was an incredible revelation. It tickled my taste buds and I’m hungry for more.

food sampling in Saigon

Downing shots of “cobra eats scorpion” liquor

You read that right. Strong alcohol infused with a dead cobra and scorpion. To make the drink more spectacular, the scorpion’s tail is inserted into the cobra’s mouth. Way more impressive! It tasted like rotting fish eaten out of the stomach of an alcoholic. I paid a heavy price for my curiosity; hours on the loo with severe cramps.

“cobra bites scorpion” infused liquor

Having sandals custom made

As it turns out, it’s not simple to chose a design, material and colour. Hats off to designers out there! After nervous contemplation I put together the elements resulting in some very cute sandals. The shoe maker drew around the soles of my feet and measured each foot individually. Fifteen dollars bought me a pair of sandals that fit me like a glove. However, with the shoe being made in only a couple of hours, I wasn’t surprised to get footwear of dubious quality.

existing models to chose from and customize

Trying a new and exciting kind of “exotic meat”

After my dog story in East-Timor, you might be aware of the fact that I love trying unusual foods. So when I got this new opportunity, I seized it with both hands. I must admit, I had doubts about this one, I even had to sleep on it. Once again, my curiosity got the better of me and I ordered a portion. It was simply delicious! What it was? I’ll tell you some day.

the mystery meat

Have you been to Vietnam? Is it on your bucket list?

The post “8 days in South Vietnam” first appeared on Travel Cake.

December 15, 2013