While preparing for my solo trip to Timor Leste, I noticed there was barley any online information on tourism and travel in East Timor. Though I was desperately hoping to find some inspiration from other travellers to prepare my journey, I found it exhilarating not to be in the know. I had no expectations and let everything surprise me.
Since those fruitless google searches, I’ve told myself I’d share everything I could about my travel experiences in East Timor. It’s a destination that deserves some more attention and that is worth a visit. I’ve already written an article on how travelling in East Timor can be quite challenging. I’ve also shared my bizarre culinary experience in Timor Leste, but since it’s not a cookie-cutter destination, you may need some visual information to help you take the plunge.
East Timor is a great stop over for a seasoned traveler looking for a little edge
Though I’m far from being an expert on East Timor and the issues the country is facing, I found it to be a particularly interesting travel destination. One that doesn’t just inspire “ooh’s and ahh’s” but rather makes you question global politics and forces you to reflect on human nature. Traveling in East Timor was a reality check reminding me of the basics in travel as well as the basics in life. I know, that sounds like pretty heavy shizzle for a weeklong stint but then again, isn’t that the whole point of travel?
As heavy hearted or challenging as travel in East Timor can be, there is plenty of light and colour waiting to be discovered.
Here is travel in East Timor in a few of my favourite snaps
Cristo rei, a giant statue of Jesus Christ standing on a globe overlooking Dili’s bay. Ascend the hill for some mild exercise and a face to face with JC.
The view from Cristo Rei is worth the climb. Cape Fatucama (pictured below) offers white sand beach and clear waters.
Cruising by Dili’s seafront.
Making friends with local beachgoers while hanging out at the beaches just outside the centre,
The market, as always, one of the most colourful spots to pick up the local vibe.
At times, the people in East Timor may seem a little grumpy but once you connect with them, the facade drops and magic happens.
A day trip from Dili or overnight stint to Atauro island flashes you to another era. Back to basics. It’s also a superb scuba diving location.
On the road to Maubisse we traversed winding roads over steep hills dotted with coffee plantations.
The centre of Maubisse has a certain charm to it. Why, I can’t quite put a finger on.
Colour and creativity are features I appreciate in my means of transport.
A local sunset beach activity: foraging shellfish at low tide.
Have you travelled to a destination you knew next to nothing about? Where was it?
Here we are again, at the beginning of a new year, wondering where time went. Looking back at the past twelve months, thinking how we could have done things better, what is still missing in our lives and wondering where the next 52 weeks will take us. For me, the past year was one full of challenges, enormous changes and tremendous mental growth.
Though 2015 wasn’t as much of a travel whirlwind as 2013 or 2014, it was an intense travel year to say the least. I moved to Latin America, making it the 5th continent I’ve lived in. I finally revisited the USA and Colombia. Then I moved again, this time back to Ghent, my favourite city on earth. I did it all while growing a tiny human. Kind of absurd, now that I think of it.
This was travel in 2015, the year of big changes…
ECUADOR
Quito
I started the year in Quito with the mission to check out whether or not Ecuador was the country where we’d settle in next. Though Quito lacks impressive tourist attractions, I grew very fond of it. I’m not really sure why, but living in Quito turned out to be quite enjoyable.
photo shoot in the historic centre of Quitoone of the most impressive architectures of Quito: la catherdral.
Baños
The capital of adventure sports in Ecuador. Charming in a touristy way… I wasn’t able to partake in any of the adventure sports due to the pregnancy so I experienced the town differently than I normally would. I’d ask myself: “would the average 75-year-old engage in this activity?” If the answer was positive, that meant a “GO” for me. Good thing that -in my mind- the average 75-year-old would have no problem mountain biking down a narrow wining road alongside massive speeding trucks… *ahum*
Devil’s cauldron reached by mountain bike in Bañosapproved activity
Cuenca
If it wasn’t for a small incident that changed our entire professional plans, I would probably be writing this post from our house in Cuenca. We found the city to be very pleasant and full of business potential. I was willing to oversee the ever fluctuating weather and settle down in the cobble stone city. But as I said, some issues came up which helped us realise Cuenca was not the place for us to live in. At least not in that moment in time.
colonial architecture in Cuencaevery weekend in Ecuador, there seems to be a parade of some sort…
Vilcabamba
Apparently many people live to be 100 years and longer in this small town nestled in what is nicknamed “the valley of longevity”… There seems to be something about the source water and the fresh air that contributes to a long and healthy life. Now this was a gorgeous piece of paradise! Rolling hills, flowers, fruits, birds and butterflies in abundance. A handful of Westerners have set up shop in this town and opened a few yoga and meditation centres, juice bars and organic restaurants. It’s also the place to be for ayahuasca cleansing ceremonies. We were keen to settle down in Vilcabamba but unfortunately the remoteness of the town also meant the internet wasn’t as reliable as it should be for digital nomads. So we were left with no other choice than to leave the little paradise.
our guesthouse in the valley of longevity
Montañita
Or ‘party central’. Cheap cocktails, good surf, tasty street food, loud pounding beats and killer sunsets. I could imagine myself twisting my hair into dreadlocks in front of a reggae shack, ambling barefooted through the sandy streets and partying till sunrise… 10 years ago! That would have pretty much summed up my dream life. Today, I actually had to retain myself not to complain about the loud (party) noise just outside my window at night! Yikes, it’s official, I’m no longer in my 20’s… Montañita helped me realise just how much I’ve grown/changed. And though I did enjoy some elements of it, places like Montañita are just not my scene anymore.
street breakfastthe way a surf beach town should be; quirky and colourfulsunset in Montañita
Puerto Cayo
A tiny dot on the map. We spent most of our time in Ecuador living and working in this sleepy fishing village. When I say sleepy, I mean really sleepy. An interesting experience, one I would never have guessed I’d be living. If you’ve missed it, read about our life in Puerto Cayo.
sleepy Puerto Cayo
Mindo
My favourite spot in Ecuador. We spent most of our time there eating delicious food, admiring colourful hummingbirds, enjoying the lush greenery and gorgeous waterfalls. Catch up on our time in Mindo lindo.
Greener than green in Mindo
Otavalo and surrounding villages
What I like most about Ecuador is its authenticity, especially in the smaller towns and villages. The people, the culture, the widely worn traditional dress; all incredibly different from what I know. The scenery throughout the country is simply stunning and so exceptionally diverse. Otavalo features one of Ecuador’s largest indigenous markets and since it was our last stop before heading home, I did some serious “no restraints”-shopping.
the colours in Ecuador are most vibrantcrater lakes in abundancegetting some local grub in Otavalo
COLOMBIA
Bogotá
A Drupal conference in Colombia lured us into the country. I had been to the Colombian capital before and just like the first time, I wasn’t crazy about Bogotá. La Candelaria, the old part of town, definitely has some charm but the rest of the city is not my cup of tea. To me the best part of being in Bogotá was the reunion with my local friends after 10 years apart. I also loved discovering some of Bogota’s quirks.
in the old centreadmiring the works one of my favourite artists, Botero
Medellín and surroundings
Such a cool and vibrant city! It’s hard to believe what a hot mess it was just 25 years ago. Medellín has really cleaned up well, turning the worst parts of the city into the best! The fantastic free walking tour by “Real City Tours” helped us understand the city and its history. We spent a few weeks in Medellín working, living and discovering the different neighbourhoods. After a hard week at work, we’d visit some of the surrounding villages and attractions.
Botero sculpture in front of the ‘Uribe palace of culture’ in downtown Medellin, the latter designed by a Flemish architectin Guatape, daytrip from Medellin
Salento
A travel dream came true the moment we boarded the bus to Salento. The town itself was quaint but it was the Cocora valley that had been peaking on my travel wish list for a while. The hike was everything I expected it to be and more. I had accidentally left my camera’s charger in Ecuador so I could only take a few pictures. Though I was bummed, this major screw up allowed me to really be in the now and take it all in.
hiking in the marvellous Cocora valleycouldn’t get enough of these views
USA
Atlanta
Though this was just a short jaunt on the way to our next destination, I was delighted to be back in the States after 11 years! I hit up some of my favourite American stores, drank sweet tea and had some doughnuts and fried chicken. I know this sounds incredibly cliché -and it is- but it’s what I was craving every time I thought of the USA. Unfortunately I didn’t have enough time to dig deeper and discover the ins and outs of Atlanta. Maybe next time?
BELGIUM
Ghent
We came back to Belgium to be close to family and friends when the baby would make her appearance. I was waggling to my not so exciting desk job every day and getting ready for her arrival every spare minute I had. So nothing exotic here. Yet I was psyched to be living in Ghent again. I had a blast spending time with said family and friends as well as reconnecting with the city. As I’ve mentioned before in my “announcement post” I’ve often found myself comparing the journey to and through parenthood to a crazy travel adventure. That’s definitely what it has felt like… The craziest adventure so far.
Ghent by nightreunited with friends. Picture by Sofie Luyten
NETHERLANDS
Friesland
If someone had told me a few years ago that I would be going to Friesland at least once every year, I would have never believed it. But that’s exactly what has happened over the past two years and will most likely continue to do so in the future. This visit however, wasn’t so much of a touristy one. We drove all the way to northern Holland to witness the wedding of our great Frisian friends. A long drive worth taking!
cosy winter wedding in the Frisian countryside. Congrats to our dear friends!
So you see, 2015 wasn’t the year of endless destinations but it was full of movement!
So what’s in store for 2016? Well, that’s the favourite part of my life: I don’t know yet! Things will inevitably be different now that there is a kid in the picture but pretty much everything still seems possible. I may not know exactly what 2016 will bring but I can already tell you this much;
As a tribute to carefree traveling, I’ve been listing my most memorable travel experiences so far. You can read part 1,part 2, part 3 , part 4 and part 5 in the previous posts.
Without further ado, here are, in no particular order, the last 15 most memorable travel experiences:
For a major “market fan” like me, the Ecuadorian indigenous markets were a special treat. They’re loud and bustling with people from various Andean tribes gathering to buy and sell all kinds of goods. Handicrafts, textile, produce, livestock and everything in between. Beside the shopping possibilities, these markets offer the visitor a great opportunity to sample the local staples.
14. Working as a butcher in Muscat, Oman
Ummmm… Sometimes pictures say more than words.
13. Spending a few nights in a refugee camp
Dheisheh Refugee CampWe spent a few nights in a refugee camp during our visit to Palestine. Unlike in the other refugee camps I’ve seen over the years, the refugees here had cement housing instead of tents which reminded us of how long the situation has been going on. Travel is not just about the pretty sights and the adventurous bus rides, it’s also about trying to understand the world.
I loved everything about my stay on the small island group in northern Russia; the desolation, the scenery, the midnight sun… Click on th title to read what struck me in Russia
11. Party, beach and sunshine on Isla Margarita, Venezuela
Isla Margarita… Yes, it is as exotic and fun as it sounds! An absolute tourist mecca but entertaining nonetheless. Being only 20 years old, I felt proud to have flown to South America on my own dime and I was eager to party!
10. Climbing holy mount Agung at night to see the sunrise
Our group of 5 were the only people climbing the volcano that night. The hike was so long and strenuous, I cried on the way down. Cried. Like a baby. But as with everything in the world of travel, the toughest experiences are the ones you remember and cherish the most.
Albania is now on my list of favourite destinations. Partly thanks to the lovely town of Berat where I spent hours on end strolling through the cobbled streets. Click on the title to read why I love Berat.
East-Timor was quite tough to travel in, but I truly loved being there. I was thrilled to be traveling solo in one of the most difficult countries to travel through. I fell for its ruggedness and its authenticity. Click one the title to read more about my thoughts on Timor-Leste.Reading on the East Timorese beach…
I traveled to Turkey on a tight budget so taking a ride in the hot air balloon was not an option for me. However, watching hundreds of balloons soar through the morning sky with a new friend was one of the highlights of my trip. Click on the title to read more about traveling to Cappadocia on a budget.
6. New Year’s eve in Rantepao, Sulawesi
Spending NYE in one of the capital towns of Sulawesi, Indonesia was pure madness, to say the very least. With everyone -including 4-year-olds- randomly shooting off fireworks everywhere, it seemed like we had landed in a ‘post apocalyptic war zone’. Think explosions, smoke, loud music, hundreds of scooters racing around… Words, pictures or video’s couldn’t possibly convey what it was like. A real life Indonesian version of ‘Mad Max’, perhaps..
Montenegro was one of the best travel surprises. I found a deserted beach on Sveti Stefan, where I feasted on my picnic, bathed in the cool water and caught some rays while listening to music! Click on the title to read about my visit to Kotor and surroundings
4. Integrating in the Congolese village life
This one, I’ve been doing every so often while visiting family in DRC. I switch up my Western clothes for local wear and get involved in the daily village life.
3. Meeting sea gypsies in Borneo
Just off the island of Sabah, there are small settlements of “sea gypsies” living on their own terms, not necessarily by choice but by obligation as they are refugees and have no legal documents to enter Malaysia. Meeting these people and learning about their life on the sea left a deep impression on me, one I hope to share with you on this blog one day.
2. Watching the sun go down on African “booze cruises”
Imagine gazing at this view while floating on a small boat. A tropical breeze stroking your sunkissed cheecks, slightly hazed from the cool beers; all you can think about is how incredibly beautiful mother nature is…
1. Meeting incredible people and making friendships along the way
You may only spend a few days with new friends made on the road, but sometimes those few days or hours are enough for a lifelong connection and a treasure chest full of lasting memories!
Though the list goes on, the experiences listed here are the ones I cherish most. You may have noticed that for me, it’s not about the tourist attractions nor is it about the payed activities. To me, it’s about getting out of your comfort zone, embracing the “out of the ordinary”. I hope you enjoyed tagging along memory lane!
As a tribute to carefree traveling, I’m listing my most memorable travel experiences so far. You can read part 1,part 2, part 3 and part 4 in the previous posts.
Without further ado, here are the next 15 travel experiences in no particular order:
30. Bicycling on Nicaragua’s Isla de Ometeppe
The Nicaraguan island of Ometepe boasts two volcanic peaks rising from the lake, surrounded by lush greenery. Riding a bicycle crossed the island was simply exhilarating; smelling the colourful tropical flowers, riding through fields of butterflies and ending with a cooling dip in a natural pool.
29. Taking natural mud baths
I’m always up for a “natural mud bath”! It seems to be a reoccurring theme recently. I’ve lathered myself with mud in Turkey, Israel and Colombia so far. Where will my next natural mud bath be?
28. Whisky tasting in Scotland
After having discovered the delicate taste of fine whisky a few years ago, Scotland jumped to the top of my travel wish list. I made it my mission to learn about the different types of Whisky and to sample as many as I possibly could without getting wasted.
27. Bribing my way crossed an African border
I’d like to go back to that country one day, so maybe I should stay vague on this one… Why is it part of my top travel experiences? Because it’s a reminder of how your sense of morality is tied to your culture and situation. As much as corruption pisses me off and as much as I would plead for it to disappear from this world, I gave in that time in Africa as it seemed as though I had no other realistic options. This is one of the many ways travel broadens your world views and makes you reconsider your truths.
“Good morning m’am, would you like to go to a funeral?” was the unusual way I was greeted in Sulawesi, Indonesia. “Sure”, I replied. Click on the title to read about death rituals and funerals in Tana Toraja.
25. Hawker stall madness in Singapore
What I remember most about Singapore is how much and how well I ate! I spent hours in hawker stalls ordering a plethora of dishes from different vendors, comparing the same dish by different cooks and trying foods that looked unfamiliar. Blue rice, jiggly soup, floating fish heads… My love for Southeast Asian street food was born.
Armed with an old-school road map and a box of Portuguese tarts we tackled the wining roads of the Douro Valley in search of the perfect Port wine. Click on the title to read about our short getaway in Portugal.
23. Partying on Tel Aviv’s rooftops
I probably shouldn’t generalise but what the heck; Israelis know how to party! I found that out in Tel Aviv, where we were invited to one party after the other, each time in cool locations like a hidden beach shack, a secret basement, the desert or a boat at sea. My favourites where the rooftop parties.
22. Staying in a luxury lodge in Africa
One of the tips I give people travelling in African countries for more than three weeks, is to splurge at least once on their stay in a luxury lodge. Our top notch lodge in Uganda had an infinity pool with views on the national park. While sipping from our cool beers on our deck, we could spot troops of elephants traversing the plains. WOW!
21. Haggling in markets all over the world
If you ask me, markets are the beating heart of every country and the best school to learn the art of haggling. Going to the local market is what I look forward to most prior a trip.
With our rented motorcycle we slowly cruised the spice island, stopping in small villages and empty white sand beaches. Pictured here is the fish market in Stone Town. Click on the title to read more about Stone Town.
19. Receiving blessings from holy men/women
No matter the religion or philosophy, I never refuse a blessing. I feel as though the many blessings I’ve received from ‘holy men and women’ throughout the years, have really had their effect.
17. Spending lazy days in love on a South Indian beach
Or any beach for that matter…
16. Taking overnight trains in Zimbabwe
My friend and I were just 18-19 years old and the only tourists on the rusty Zimbabwean trains to Bulawayo and Victoria falls. Two nocturnal journeys talking to local youths, binging on snacks, laughing and doing everything in our power not to go to the extremely unhygienic toilets. Photo by Daryle Dickens
Next, the last 15 items on the list! Curious about Part 1, Part 2 , Part 3 or Part 4 of this list? This series will be continued every other Thursday!
As a tribute to carefree traveling, I’m listing my most memorable travel experiences so far. You can read part 1,part 2 and part 3 in the previous posts.
Without further ado, here are the next 15 travel experiences in no particular order:
45. Wild camping in Liechtenstein’s Alps
Unlike in most European countries, wild camping is legal in Lichtenstein. You can walk into the Alps and pitch your tent wherever you want to, away from campsites. Perfect for experiencing the whole “man vs nature” thing…
44. Visiting the cotton castle in Pamukale, Turkey
The cotton castle is just stunning at dawn. Besides, getting there before the crowds is key to this experience! Note that swimming in the main pools is no longer permitted.You can see why this rock formation is nicknamed cotton castle. In Pamukkale, Turkey.
New Year’s Eve in Edinburgh is a basically a crazy street party with concerts, fireworks, dj’s and dancing in the centre of the city. A fun and casual way to celebrate the new year. Click on the title to read about celebrating Hogmanay in Edinburgh.
42. Climbing an active volcano with streaming lava
The sole’s of my shoes melted off as I carefully stepped on the barely solid lava rocks. I could see and hear the boiling lava streaming right under my feet. I can’t say I felt comfortable on volcano Pacaya in Guatemala.
41. Floating on the Mekong and sipping on white coffee in Vietnam
40. Being spiritually overwhelmed in Jerusalem
Religious or not, witnessing thousands of pilgrims and locals alike sing hand in hand, burst into tears and pray rigorously at the religious sites of Jerusalem, is touching on a deep spiritual level. I too ended up saying a prayer for peace by the Wailing Wall.
39. Bathing in the natural hot springs and waterfalls of Dominica
The tiny island of Dominica has so many exciting nooks with waterfalls, hot springs and swimming holes. Nature on this Caribbean island is so lush and untamed, you feel like a pathfinder. WOW!I went in for a dip every occasion I got!
38. Connecting with kids in Africa
Kids in Africa LOVE to see visitors passing through their village. Their curiosity leads them to surround you, laugh, sing, dance and call you names (mostly the local slang for ‘white person’ even if, like me, you’re not really white). Connecting with these kids is something you should experience for yourself to know how heartwarming it can be. Picture taken in Rwanda.
Ok, I cheated a bit; there was a viewing platform… But that doesn’t take away from the wonder of seeing our wild “cousins” swinging from branch to branch. I’m not a particularly big fan of animals yet I stared at the baby orangutans in the rehabilitation centre for at least an hour. Click on the title to read about my visit to Sabah.
35. Shamelessly doing every tourist cliché in Paris
I’ve been to Paris several times and the French culture is quite close to mine (Belgian) but I just had to do it once: act like a cliché tourist in Paris! Barret, Eiffel tower, baguette, cheese, wine, macaroons and a long stroll along the Seine. Cliché or not, I loved it!
There are so many reasons to love Oman but what I enjoyed most were the natural pools and wadi’s. I felt so small climbing over rocks and wading in the desert valley pools. Click on the title to read about my road trip through Oman.
When I think of Myanmar, I think of gold. Not even in Dubai or Saudi Arabia did I see as much gold as I did in Myanmar. The Shwedagon Pagoda, pictured here, took the cake. Click on the title to read about the other thing there is in abundance in Myanmar: Buddha depictions.
32. Roadtripping throuh South Morocco
South Morocco is another fantastic place to take a road trip. Fields of roses, ancient towns, traditional villages, interesting desert landscapes and warm welcoming inhabitants, are just a few things you find on the way.
31. Eating strange foods along the way
Little shacks like this, don’t scare me. In my experience, they often serve something interesting to taste. Besides, when hunger strikes…I love trying all kinds of local foods. The weird and the ugly included. Usually, that translates into unusual meats. So far I’ve tried rat, dog, turtle, camel, grasshoppers, duck embryo, crocodile, toad, hippopotamus, smoked monkey, guinea pig… I think this subject may need a post of its own.
As a tribute to carefree traveling, I’m listing my most memorable travel experiences so far. You can read the first 20 items and the next 20 in the previous posts.
Without further ado, here are the next 15 travel experiences in no particular order:
60. Bicycling amongst the ancient temples of Bagan (Myanmar)
We rented some bicycles to explore the temples and pagodas of Bagan in Myanmar. To get the best light and avoid the crowds we left just after dawn and got a taste of what finding these masterpieces must have been like for western explorers back in the days.
59. Wandering and climbing around Petra
Instead of sticking to Petra’s main tourist route to see its remains, we drifted off and climbed ourselves to the “outskirts” of the Pink City. With no other visitors in sight for miles, we experienced ultimate freedom (to goof off).Of course we also visited the famous sites, like “The Treasury”.
Our Polish friend intrduced us to the fine art of vodka drinking. It’s not as straight forward as you would think! Click on the title to read about the rules of drinking vodka.
57. Camping in the African Savannah
After the safari, we pitched a tent in the savannah. Though it was an official campsite, we were still in the middle of the bush. Some hungry hippos came by at night and the hyena’s were laughing behind our tents.
56. Having a naked hamam experience somewhere in Turkey
Umm, I don’t have a picture of this… But unless you’re a bit of a prude, I do recommend going to a hammam in Turkey! Yes, you’re expected to be naked…
55. Tasting local rum mixes on the beaches of Guadeloupe
Not only does Guadeloupe produce some fine rum, they also have tasty homemade infusions like this one: lemon, honey and cinnamon rum. Can you imagine spending the day on a caribbean beach sipping on this?! Paradise!
I wasn’t consciously looking for it but living in Bali for a year helped me find a certain peace of mind. There is something in the air on that island.
53. Having traditional Shabbat dinner in Jerusalem
We were surprised by an Orthodox Jewish man blowing a horn on Friday afternoon in a market in Jerusalem. Shabbat was starting; according to this man’s faith, everyone needed to drop everything and close their shops immediately. He was yelling at the non-Orthodox shopkeepers, blowing the horn in their faces. It was quite an absurd sight to us, which we discussed in detail during the Shabbat dinner we were invited to.
52. Swimming with wild dolphins in Zanzibar
We spotted some dolphins near the wooden fishing boat we were sailing on. I tried to capture them on photo but it was so much more fun to jump in and swim along with them. I had no idea dolphins were so big, bigger than me it seemed!
51. Backpacking through Central America
From Guatemala to Panama with a backpack and a small budget. Honduras and Nicaragua were my favourite countries of the region.
Looking back, I can’t believe I made my way through this crowd without fainting.Thaipusam is an intense pilgrimage in Malaysia which involves hooks, chains, lemons and milk to name a few. Read all about the madness of Thaipusam by clicking on the title.
49. Sleeping under the Saharan star spangled sky
I rode a camel to an isolated spot in the Tunisian Sahara where our group camped and danced around a bonfire to the beat of the djembe. Though we had pitched some Bedouin tents, most of us fell a sleep in open air while gazing at the the countless stars.
48. Quite literally rolling in foreign money
OK, this one may need some explaining… I’ve often traveled to countries with strongly devaluated currency. In these cases, I’ve had to lug around lots of cash just to buy a a simple loaf of bread. Quite a hassle, for sure but on the other hand, it has allowed me to live out a childhood dream: rolling around in money like they do in the cartoons! *hello DuckTales* Cheers to living your childhood dreams!
Another absurd and oh-so memorable night… Midget boxing in the red light district of Manila. Click on the title to read more about the quirky things we did in Manila.
The food in Bologna is incredible; simple, fresh and local. A real foodie paradise! Click on the title to read about my foodie weekend in Bologna, Eataly!Fresh Italian produce
Without further ado, here are the next 20 travel experiences in no particular order:
80. Bathing in Budapest’s public baths in the snow
There is something incredibly ‘exotic’ to bathing in the outdoors with outside temperatures of -3°C . Add a stunning architectural backdrop and a blanket of snow and the picture is complete! At Széchenyi Thermal Baths
We tracked down the restaurants serving Michelin starred dim sum. “If I don’t like those, I can officially say I don’t like dim sum.” As it turns out, I do like dim sum! Click on title to read about surprising Hong Kong.
78. Floating in the dead sea in Israel
It’s a strange feeling to be almost completely weightless. Unlike anything else!
Swimming, eating, relaxing with cool beers, waking up to the chirp of little birds… That’s what our time in Bunyonyi was all about. Click on the title to read more about Lake Bunyonyi.
76. Crashing a grand Indian engagement party
The night I arrived in Delhi, my host took me to a party. Once there I realised it was a huge engagement party with incredible food, an open bar and blasting Bollywood music. Though totally underdressed and tired from my flight, I was warmly welcomed by my new friends.
75. Pick-nicking in the Summer Palace in St-Petersburg
As it was my travel mate’s birthday, we took the opportunity to indulge in a blini and caviar pick-nick with the Summer Palace as a backdrop. I don’t even like caviar but it seemed like the most appropriate thing to eat.
74. Spending 24 hours in Qatar with people I had never met before
A midnight drive around, shisha in the souq, Lebanese brunch and shopping in a recreation of Venice… Thanks to local expats who took me under their wings for 24 hours, I really enjoyed the city of Doha in Qatar.
73. Discovering the bizarre ghost towns of Western Sahara
Western Sahara is a peculiar country. The town seems deserted and overrun by desert sand, yet there is a certain mystique in the air… Notice this woman shovelling sand from her front door. The Saharan winds bring the dunes right into people’s homes…
The hummingbirds of Mindo touched my soul and brought back some inner peace . Click on the title to read more about magical Mindo.
71. Road tripping the Irish countryside
I was stunned by the natural beauty of the Irish country side. Stopping for a pint of Guiness and a minced meat pie in a local pub made the experience all the more memorable. A road trip not to be missed!
The rain doesn’t take hitchhikers into account… We hitched rides from Belgium to Denmark through The Netherlands and Germany. Even though we had it relatively easy being two women asking for a ride, hitch hiking turned out to be hard work! The exciting and fun kind of hard work. Click on the title to read about doing Copenhagen on the cheap.
68. Getting pampered with fantastic massages in Southeast Asia
Incredible how a luxury service in the West can be such an ordinary one in the East. Long live affordable massages and the soothing tea’s that follow!
67. Finding evidence of the slave trade in Ghana
Behind the walls of this fort, lie the dungeons where Ghanian men and women were held captive to be sold as slaves and shipped off in those parts of the world. You can actually still smell the human distress in the dungeons. very confronting…
66. Meeting the Garifuna tribe in Honduras
The Garifuna are descendants of the West African people living on the Central American Caribbean coast. They speak their own language and live in communities which reminded me very much of the African villages. Even their food and music have obvious African influences. It felt a little like home after having spent some time in Latin America.
65. Hiking to the top of Mt. Sinai to see the sunrise
The hike started in the middle of the night, following a trail of candle holding pilgrims. Once at the top we had just enough time to catch our breaths before the first rays of light made their appearance. Being surrounded by pilgrims singing, praying, crying and admiring the sun, it was almost a religious experience.
64. Fishing in South India
Though I didn’t work quite as hard as the fisherman, taking part of their daily activity and sharing the (slim) catch was nothing short of enriching.20 years earlier, I was doing the exact same thing (yes, that little girl in the bathing suit is me) Photo by A. Van Den Daele
63. Transforming into a Burmese lady in Myanmar
In a beauty parlour of small town in Myanmar, I found out the techniques Burmese ladies and ladyboys use to achieve their beauty ideal. Lightening the skin is just one of them. Here is the Burmese version of me and my talented make-up artist.
62. Snorkelling with manta rays
They’re so much bigger than I could have imagined, I was frightened. These majestic creatures slide under the surface of the ocean, not slightly fearing the clumsy “human fish”. Photo by Shawn Heinrichs
61. Going on spontaneous trips
There’s nothing more exciting than deciding to take a trip on a whim. Decide today, leave tomorrow… That’s how I ended up in Warsaw, Denmark, Paris, Kosovo, Brunei, Amsterdam, Cuba…
Continue reading part 3, part 4, part 5 and part 6! If you’ve mist the part 1, catch up here… I’ll be posting the rest of the list every other Thursday!
Are any of these experiences on your “been there done that” list?
When I met my husband he charmed me with his vague plan to buy a motorcycle in India with which he’d traverse the country while documenting the journey on film. Ravished as I was, I didn’t really believe he’d pull through. But there I was, ten months later, on a plane to India to join in on the motorcycle adventure. A trip from South to North India on a 1979 Royal Enfield, “Bullet”.
bizarre checkpoint along the way
It would take a short novel to tell you the whole story, so I’ll stick to the most essential parts…
When I arrived in India Douglas and his travel mate had already bought motorcycles, driven through the most insane traffic situations, been severely ill and they’d had a few near death experiences. But worst of all, they’d just been robbed of thousands of dollars worth of filming equipment and the stories they had captured on film. That’s how we got acquainted with India’s police and red tape. I’ve blacked out the details, it really was that horrible.
The silver lining was that robbery happened in Varkala, a popular backpacker beach hangout perched on a steep cliff full of restaurants, bars and shopping stalls. So while we spent days at the police station fighting for paperwork to come through, we’d spend the rest of the time stuffing our faces with banana pancakes, drinking cool beers, joining spontaneous sing-alongs around the campfire and skinny dipping under the full moon with new found Scandinavian friends. You know, the usual backpacker’s stuff.
Varkala beach at sunsetnot a bad way to wait for paperwork to come through…
After a week of frustration, we finally got the paperwork out of the way and were ready to leave the tourist Shangri-La to dig into the “real” India.
let’s go!
With our backpacks strapped securely to the back of our motorcycle, we crossed the palm fringed Kerala. We parked “The Bullet” for a few days to spend some time gliding the backwaters on a houseboat.
view from our houseboat
We continued our trip passing through gorgeous landscapes and majestic cities…
Udaipur
…but also rather dull ones.
the hardest stretches were the ones with boring landscapes
We would drive all day, taking lots of breaks…
dancing with some school kids during the pee/stretch break in the middle of nowhere
…and we’d look for a place to stay once the sun started to set. If we were lucky we’d find a quaint little room with a view but more often than not, we’d have to take whatever was available. Thus we got our fair share of bedroom cockroach encounters, rat dropping surprises and malfunctioning fans in temperatures of 40 C° at night. Or even worse: nosy staff showing up unannounced in our room at night under pretext they’d “need something” from inside… WTF?!
cockroach-free room with a view…
The Bullet tagged along with us where ever we went, giving us the freedom to stop anywhere we wanted.
we took The Bullet on a passenger ferry to cross a river. In india everything is possible, all you need to do is ask.The Bullet got butchered on a a train ride…
Our motorcycle broke down often. We’d have it repaired if we happened to be near a town. If not, we’d fix it ourselves. With tape and rope. Yep, that works sometimes.
in cases of emergency, there is a mechanic in all of us
But usually there were more than enough people spontaneously getting involved, trying everything they could to get The Bullet running.
bystanders always got involved. Whether we’d want it or not.
Traffic in and near cities was absolute madness. You never know what you’ll encounter while driving. Anything goes.
dodging cows became a daily activitytraffic was always interestingelephants: part of every-day encounters on the road…
We met some interesting characters along the way.
talking to fascinating characters like this made our breaks extra compelling. I was drawn by his fabulous top.
We ate where the locals do.
street food
We tried to understand the essence of India. We were far from the tourist path and as close to life in small town India as possible. Even so, we knew we would never be able to truly make sense of things in this country. We are outsiders to the culture and always will be, no matter how hard we tried. To us, that’s the beauty of traveling in India.
beach in Kerala
My part of the journey ended in Delhi after having crossed the States of Kerala, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Gujarat and Rajasthan. Douglas continued further north through the Himalayas to Manali on his own.
having our own set of wheels allowed us to discover forgotten temples and ruins along the way
As you can imagine, insane things happened on this three month trip but as I mentioned earlier, it would take a novel to tell the full story. I would definitely rank this trip under the category “hardcore travel”.
Here are a few tips if you want to motorcycle through India:
1. Don’t. It’s dangerous. But if you really really must…
2. Travel in India without a motorcycle first. That way you’ll get to know the Indian way before taking on the responsibility of having to drive, deal with mechanics and cultural differnces, finding your way in sprawling cities… Only when you find that you can handle the Indian chaos, should you start to consider driving the motorcycle.
3. Upgrade your motorcycle’s horn. Make sure it’s loud enough to overpower the other horns. On Indian roads, it’s survival of the loudest.
4. Pack light, very light. It’s so much easier and more comfortable to drive with a light backseat. You may have noticed I’m wearing the same outfits in almost all of the pictures in this post. Do bring along some tape and rope, they always comes in handy!
5. Avoid cities and crowds. They’re complete mayhem.
6. If you are pressed with time, chose North India as your destination. The mountainous area north of New Delhi is far more laid back to drive through.
6. Finally and most importantly: Go with the flow. You can’t control most of what happens on the road. The sooner you accept that reality and let go, the sooner you’ll start enjoying the experience.
Motorcycling through India was not a relaxing trip. It was challenging, dangerous and frustrating.At the same time it was unlike anything else and incredibly rewarding. An epic journey for ever in our memories.
dirty, smelly and tired but 100% satisfied
Have you traveled by motorcycle? Where? Would you motorcycle India?
