It was a sunny September friday when we set off to the North of Holland. Having never been that far up our neighbouring country, we starting packing our warmest jumpers and shawls. “After all, with a name that roughly translates to “Freeze land”, it must be exceptionally cold there…” we nodded jokingly.
I had been wanting to check out Friesland for a while, but had never made it happen. This time around, things were different; now that our Frisian friends and neighbours in Bali had just moved to their homeland, we had very good reason to drive all the way out there.
Besides reconnecting with our friends, we were determined to get to know the local culture. Did you know Frisians have their own flag, cultural habits and language? A language incomprehensible to Dutch speakers…
We were lucky to arrive during the Flaeijel cultural festival, celebrating and showcasing traditional and historical Frisian countryside culture. Most attendees were dressed up in traditional garment, speaking Frisian (as they usually do in daily life) and participating in rustic activities. My only regret was not being able to find the costume rental booth or else I would have exchanged my modern clothes for a peasant attire!
We spent a couple of hours learning and experiencing the old ways of the Frisian country side. A trip into the past.
women doing laundry the old-school wayhorseback riding in a dress can be done!veggies for saleFrisian cookingbeans with sweet syrup, bacon and gherkinsstar anise is one of the spices often used for deserts and drinks“spin your own jumping rope”pimped up tractorsclog bootsreal vintagenever realised how small a pony isdistilling the local “moonshine”……and the barkids fun fairtraditional dance and music
What a great way to get to know Friesland! After attending the festival, we continued our journey into Frisian culture through food and drink.
We started with a classic Dutch snack: “Bitterballen“, deep fried balls of bread crumbs with a meat ragout filling. It might not sound appetising but if home made, they can be extremely tasty.
Next we feasted on a juicy Frisian steak from local grass fed cows, absolutely delicious.
For dessert we tried Frisian sugar bread (Fryske sûkerbôle) which apparently has a different recipe than other sugar breads -it’s 40% sugar to be more precise. We continued with “Oranjekoek” another sweet treat -perhaps slighty too sweet- usually served with coffee in the afternoon. To end the evening we drank “Dokkumer coffee“, a coffee infused with sugar and a spiced liquor called Berenburg.
from top left: dokkumer coffee, toasted Frisian sugar bread with ice cream, bitterballen and Heineken, Frisian grass fed beef
Though we didn’t have time to visit much more of Friesland, what we saw did not disappoint. The small quaint villages radiating tranquility, the plentitude of waterways and the slightly different culture really gave me the idea I hadn’t spent the weekend in the Netherlands but in a different country.
The next Flaeijel festival will take place on 24-26th September 2015.
Did you know about Friesland? Have you been to a “live museum”?
The post “a peek into Friesland’s past” first appeared on Travel Cake.
I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.
I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…
JANUARY…
SULAWESI- INDONESIA
I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.
Torajan funeraltarsier
MALAYSIA
As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.
proud devoteefor the sake of devotionthe end of the pilgrimage
FEBRUARY…
BALI
As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…
last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)
MARCH…
HONG KONG
A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!
visiting Chinese templesorder after order of new flavours
MACAU
During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.
wide sunny boulevardsgamble paradise
APRIL…
BELGIUM
Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.
deliciously gross Belgian farea long time since I last saw spring
MAY…
ITALY
By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.
the red city seen from aboveincredible food and wine in Bologna
JULY-AUGUST…
DRC
Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!
It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.
Congo’s stunning naturesafety firstkids in the villagecrossing the Congo-Nile
UGANDA
On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.
buying goat brochettes from the bus windowLake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele
RWANDA
Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.
sunset in Gisenyi
SEPTEMBER…
FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS
To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.
catching up in front of an old country houseclog bootsold fashioned fun
OCTOBER…
MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO
Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.
As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.
kids in Beirat, Albania
GREECE
I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.
Athens by nightwine tasting in the country side
NOVEMBER…
IRAN
Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!
Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.
inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahanfarmer in Kashanout of this world rooftops
DECEMBER…
ECUADOR
The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.
What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…
on the look out for a new life in Ecuador
How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?
The journey started in pitch darkness on the side of an Albanian dirt road. Luckily, I wasn’t alone; I was in company of a new friend I had met in a hostel. The owner of our guest house in Shkoder had promised a bus would make a detour to pick us up and drop us at the ferry docks. “Just stand by the side of the road around 6 AM”, he had told us the night before, “it’ll pass by”. So there we stood, no bus stop in sight and no other people around, hoping the driver hadn’t forgotten about us. The bus turned up 20 minutes late, just when we were about to give up the wait.
We arrived in Fierze after a few hours of zigzagging up and down the mountains, stopping for coffee and rakija (yes, at 7AM… apparently, it’s the normal thing to do in Albania) and listening to the local passengers have heated discussions about Serbia -that’s as little as my Albanian language skills allowed me to know. Once there, we embarked on a small boat taking us over the majestic Lake Koman, which according to the Bradt guide, is “one of the great boat trips of the world”. Despite the somewhat gloomy weather that morning, I can’t say I disagree.
Lake Koman, gorgeous despite the grey skies
The last leg of the journey was a short overland haul with 5 other travellers who had also found their ways to this lesser known part of Europe. After an 8 hour jaunt, we finally approached our final destination; the mountain village of Valbona. I had heard it was ravishing, but I wasn’t expecting to get completely taken aback by its beauty and serenity.
arriving in Valbona
After checking into my room, I took a brisk walk through the fall foliage to visit the town which is only a few houses large. I was smitten.
the restaurant and guesthouseexploring the areameeting the cows in Valbona village
My days in Valbona were all about breathing in some fresh air and getting close and personal with nature.
Valbona, where getting out of bed is exciting
There are plenty of hikes you can undertake in Valbona. From strenuous, overnight treks to hikes for ‘beginners’ lasting only an hour. Short in time for an overnight trek, I chose to do a 3 hour hike (one way), one that I am not likely to forget. I was out in the Albanian Alps all by myself, finding my way to the top through flower filled pastures, passing by cows grazing freely, picking sweet wild grapes, all the while smiling to myself thinking “how is this real?”.
horses along the way
I arrived at a house/farm where an Albanian family was running their usual chores. Chopping wood, making cheese, cooking, taking care of the animals… I was invited inside for some tea and accepted to share the meal the hostess was preparing. She showed me around the property and I dipped my toes in the world of cheese making- with freshly squeezed milk of course. An American family happened to pass by and ended up joining the fun. We roasted and peeled chestnuts side by side and enjoyed a “family dinner” together.
the farm in the mountainsmaking cheesetea, nuts and wild grapeschopping wood and roasting chestnutspeeling chestnutsfamily meal
The evenings in Valbona were all about feasting on home cooked meals and having conversations with the other travellers by the crackling fireplace. The home made wine would flow while our laughter would fill up the cosy wooden chalet.
satisfied
Spending a few days in Valbona was definitely a highlight of my trip to Albania. If you’re ever in the neighbourhood, I highly recommend you undertake the long but beautiful journey to Valbona.
I stayed in the Rilindja Alpine Rooms with rates from €20 (single) to €30 (double). You can just as well stay in a more expensive deluxe room or in a simple dorm. For more information on the region, hikes, sleeping facilities and activities, check out the ‘journey to Valbona’ website which has very detailed information covering everything you need to know.
It hit me on my way to the airport: in just a few hours I would be landing in Montenegro and I knew nothing about the country. I had no idea where to go after my flight would land in Podgorica, the country’s capital. With no guide book at my disposal and flaky internet on my phone, I was left feeling quite careless and well… incredibly stupid. I nervously texted my friends updating them on the situation. Judging from my agitation, some thought I was headed to outer space. There you have it: seasoned travellers get nervous about travel too!
I landed in Podgorica and decided to skip the capital.
Despite the flaky internet I mentioned earlier, I had managed to read a few articles about Podgorica. The reviews were not good. As much as I would have wanted to find out for myself if Podgorica really is a hole, I only had 4 days to spend in the country and I wanted to use them wisely. From the airport, I hopped into a taxi to the bus station where I immediately boarded a bus to Kotor. People spoke some English, they were helpful, the sun was out and the ride was smooth. Easy! “What was I even stressing about?” I smiled the entire ride. Have I been traveling in “difficult” countries so often that I was so amazed at the ease of all this? I wonder.
As we approached Kotor, I was stunned by the incredible views of the bay. I pulled out my glasses (aka my binoculars) and scotched myself to the window. If you ever take this ride, sit on the left side! (drivers side).
approaching the bay of Kotor
I arrived in Kotor after sunset and found my way to a charming hostel where I was warmly greeted with a shot of rakia. Once settled down, I put together a little ‘game plan’ to help me maximise my short time in Montenegro.
LEARN- Visit the old town of Kotor
The fortified city of Kotor is small enough to visit in an hour or two. There is a plentitude of well preserved churches, squares and museums explaining the history and culture. I took my time to wander around the narrow streets of the old town squeezing in lots of coffee breaks to read up on the city’s history. Seeing it was low season, the huge groups of day-trippers were scarce. The old town is so clean and charming, it doesn’t seem real. It has a very high Disneyland factor.
a square in the old townlearning the city’s historythe city’s sailboat marinaon the edge of the old town
Aside from a quick history lesson, I also learned why there is such a large cat population in Kotor. They are everywhere, inside and out. They are accepted by the inhabitants, sometimes even treated as royalty. After bumping into a cat museum and a souvenir shop that sells cat-shaped everything, I just had to know; what’s the deal with these cats?
Apparently the city had a serious rat problem during the Middle Ages. Because the rats were bearer of disease such as the plague, they brought in a bunch of cats to deal with the problem. Till this day, the people of the old town appreciate the help of the cats and treat them well in return. At least so goes the legend…
decoding the ‘cats mystery’
MOVE- Wake up early to get crisp morning view from the fortress
Overlooking the bay of Kotor lies an abandoned fortress which in itself is not specifically beautiful but the view… It took me about 30-45 minutes to reach the top taking lots of photo breaks on the way. I was humming the ‘Game of Thrones’ theme the entire way up. I could have sworn I was on set! But my favourite part was simply sitting on a ridge just below the fortress, catching my breath and enjoying the silence accompanied by a spectacular view.
view from the topa steep 40 min climbhumming the ‘Game of Thrones’ theme song
TASTE- Visit a market and buy some local produce
Though I wasn’t overwhelmed by Kotor’s produce market located right outside it’s walls, it was an opportunity to taste some of the region’s specialities such as smoked dried ham, home made olives, cheese made from boiled milk… I left the market with a full stomach.
fresh organic producecheese sampling
EXPLORE- Take a trip to somewhere amazing
Armed with some of the produce I had bought at the market, I took a bus to Sveti Stefan, a small islet reputed as one of the most stunning sights in Montenegro. I tend not to give too much importance to statements like these, so I was expecting it to be overrated. I was dropped off the bus by the side of the road somewhere near Sveti Stefan. I found my way down to the pebbled beach. Gasp… Gorgeous! The fact that I had the beach all to myself made the place even more impressive! Gotta love low season! The island itself is an expensive hotel (cheapest room starts at €950 a night), so you can’t enter the island unless you’re a guest. The beach was good enough for me though! I swam, pick nicked and let the sun caress my skin. Pure bliss.
Sveti Stefan in the distancetaking a dip on my private beachglass of local rosé for sunset overlooking the island
LAUGH- Make some friends
Staying at the most popular hostel in town made this task quite easy. There were travellers from all over the world, most of whom were on a long jaunt through Europe or the Balkans. Because I was traveling solo, I didn’t mind joining the group on a pub crawl, even though I was the “grandmother” of the gang. Another night was spent chatting the night away with travellers while drinking beer under the starlit sky with views over the city.
star gazing with new friendsfree shot for every beer- pub crawl
DARE- Say yes to something unexpected
After my day in Sveti Stefan, I waited on the side of the road for a bus to take me back to Kotor. There was no schedule, I just waited around, flagging down every passing bus asking if they were headed towards Kotor. After 15 minutes of waiting and the third rejection, I started wondering if I was indeed on the right track. An elderly man must have seen my slightly worried face and gestured me to enter his car. He spoke no English but used his hands to communicate that he wanted to give me a ride to Kotor. I doubted for a few seconds but then… YOLO, I stepped into the car. We didn’t speak each other’s language, but somehow we managed to talk, laugh and listen to music together. He stopped the car at one of the panorama points so I could take pictures. Had I not followed my intuition and accepted the invitation, I would have never experienced this fun Montenegrin encounter. These are the unexpected meetings that make travel so beautiful.
If you can manage to incorporate the 6 magic words during your stay anywhere (learn, move, laugh, taste, explore, dare), I believe your trip is already successful, no matter the length of stay.
Have you been enchanted by a place after a short visit? Where was it?
If there is one thing you’ll find in abundance in Rwanda, it’s pleasant, laid back towns. Perhaps so laid back , you might have to dig deep to find something to do. There is a fine line between chilling and being bored and that was my general state of mind in Rwanda; I was never sure if I was relaxing or slightly bored. Chances are, I’m just spoiled.
As I’ve mentioned in my previous article about Rwanda, it’s a country worth visiting, but maybe not as a main destination. If you’re in the area for gorilla trekking or volcano hiking, I highly recommend you swing by the lake side town of Gisenyi. Though I might be a little biased, having spent a few years of my childhood there, I think it may be Rwanda’s best town to hang out it in. 24 hours would suffice to sample the vibe. Add an extra day or two if you need some downtime.
This is how I would spend 24 hours in Gisenyi
Check in at Paradise Malahide hotel.
This popular hotel houses a staff that tries their hardest to make you feel at home. Clean small bungalows with an African inspired interior serve as rooms, all facing the hotel’s tiny beach. It’s located quite far from the centre of town so if you don’t have your own set of wheels, you’ll have to take the motor taxi which is an adventure in itself. It’s the right place to be if you’re looking for a peaceful stay. Rooms are quite pricey, but most accommodation in Rwanda is.
If there is one dish Rwandans are great at, it’s BBQ’ed meat and fish. Go to a local bar and order some “brochettes and frites” with your beer. Bam, you’ve integrated in the local culture. The fries are served with mayonnaise -the good kind- something every Belgian will rejoice himself of.
We walked to an open air bar/restaurant right next to Paradise Malahide hotel and feasted on grilled beef skewers, fries and beer while enjoying the sun setting in the lake.
sun setting in Kivu lake
Breakfast in Paradise
Even if you haven’t spent the night in Malahide, it’s worth stopping by for breakfast. The presentation combined with the setting make their breakfast feel like such a treat. Again, it comes with a price tag but you get used to that in Rwanda.
organic omelette, crèpes, toasts, homemade jam and local thee/coffee… with a viewwake up slow
Head to the market
It’s basically your average big bustling African market, but if you’re anything like me and find all markets fun and interesting, you’ll want to hit this one too. It’s a great place to buy local fabric, which you can have tailored into a fashionable piece of clothing right on the spot. Bring an existing piece to have copied or have them make you a local statement piece. Rwandans are known throughout the region to be excellent tailors.
This organisation was founded by a French nun in the 80’s. Her goals was to provide widows with sowing skills and an opportunity to make an income. The atelier has been in the same place in Gisenyi ever since. The women make dolls with African skin tones, bags, wallets, and stuffed animals. All with recycled fabric. Every single item is made by hand and you can get a bag or doll custom made for a reasonable price. It’s small initiatives like these that I love to support.
signature dollsleftover fabrics put to good use
Buffet for lunch
Buffets are the prefered dining style in Rwanda… And they should be! You get to load up your plate as much as you can and sample all the different dishes for a fixed price. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants offering buffets for lunch. Ask around to find out which ones are popular. Try Sambaza if you get the chance; literally meaning “small fish”, they are indeed tiny fish, usually deep fried and served with lemon and pili pili. A typical Kivu lake snack.
Though Rwanda is landlocked, Gisenyi has a decent beach by the shores of Lake Kivu. In the afternoons and during the weekends, the public beach is animated with children coming for an after school dip, showing off their salto skills. The calm lake is perfect for a swim and a lay in the sand. Some places rent out jet ski’s and motorboats; ideal if you need a little more action. Bring a Frisbee or a beach ball; you’ll make new friends instantly. Stay for sunset and you’ll see swarms of bats leaving their nests to start their evening hunt.
crown birds on the beach. photo by Alex Van den Daele
Catch a traditional dance show in a big tourist hotel
I know how this sounds; cheesy and ‘unauthentic’. But if you want to see the tall black men with blond hair do their traditional dance, these are the only places you will find them. These dances are hardly ever found in modern Rwandese society unless it’s for a wedding, birthday or as an opening act of an official event. The dancers are hired to put on a traditional show for parties and for visitors. It is still part of the culture but not so much in a spontaneous way.
We were lucky to see a show for free in our hotel. Though I found it quite impressive, I wouldn’t necessarily have paid for it or have changed my itinerary to see it. But that’s just me, I’m not particularly fond of cultural dances.
not used to watching traditional shows with tourist but fun either way
For the party animals: clubbing at White Rock
In my experience, travel in Africa leaves you dead beat at the end of the day. I rarely have any energy left to go clubbing, unless I’m staying in the same place for a week or so.
Loosing my edge? Maybe.
If you’re still feeling energised at the end of the day, white rock is probably the best place to shake your booty to the beat of Nigerian pop and American hip hop. There are several other places that will cater to your dancing needs. Things can change quite fast so ask locals which is the current ‘happening’ club.
A morning and lunch at Serena hotel
Whether you want to splash around in the pool or want to hit the gym, the Serena hotel is the place to be. They charge 10$ to spend a day at the pool included towels and a drink. The hotel is not just a glitzy place for a swim, it’s also of historical significance. It briefly served as the headquarters of the interim government that presided over the genocide of ’94.
Since you’re already paying for entrance, you might as well stay a little longer and have lunch on the terrace or by the pool. Get the grilled tilapia, it is incredible. The fish comes straight out of the lake on to your plate. The hotel restaurant offers many other dishes I wasn’t able to taste but judging from the other guests’ reactions as they took a bite of their dish, the food here is delicious.
Serena’s swimming poolfresh tilapia
Leading up to the hotel is the ‘Avenue de la coopération’ perfect for a long stroll to digest the food and check out some of the crafts on sale along the way.
It’s been awfully quiet on Travel Cake these past few week. So quiet in fact, some of you have been wondering if maybe I’d left the blogging scene.
If you’re following on Instagram or on Facebook you’ll already know that’s not the case.
So what have I been doing? Why the silence?
I’ve been traveling…
…IN MONTENEGRO
My trip started in Montenegro where I spent a couple of days exploring the South of the country. I must admit, I was a bit nervous when I set off as I knew almost nothing about Montenegro and hadn’t planned anything besides my flight. I had no idea what to expect: do the locals speak a few words of English? How far is the centre from the airport and what’s the best way to get there? What are the inhabitants of this country called? Monte-negr***?
This was going to be the ultimate “winging-it” trip. Never have I been this badly prepared. You know what? As it turns out, it’s not really a problem. I smoothly found my way to the lovely town of Kotor and stayed in a charming hostel where I met some inspiring people. I learned about the history, culture, food, language and how to catch a bus, right there on the spot. I was marveling at EVERYTHING because I had no expectations what so ever.
hiking in Kotor
I spent my days walking through medieval towns and gaping at majestic mountain scapes. I reconnected with myself during a solo pick-nick on a pebbled beach and had a “YOLO- moment” when I jumped in some icy waters with no one around to tell me whether it was safe or not.
All I could think about is going back. With a car, more time and perhaps a friend. By the way, the inhabitants of Montenegro are called ‘Montenegrins’, in case you were wondering.
…IN ALBANIA
Now I know Albania is not your typical ‘top of the wish list’ kind of destination but I had always been curious about this country. Once again, I crossed the border with next to no expectations.
Albania’s overwhelmingly stunning scenery, its taste, mostly organic food and its welcoming people took me aback. It is a rugged land with an edge. Everything I would try to undertake, no matter how banal, seemed like an adventure. Cycling to town, buying a loaf of bread in the corner shop or catching a bus suddenly became challenging activities. It wasn’t the easiest travel destination for a female solo traveller but it wasn’t too hard either. I don’t think I’ve uttered exclamatory WOW’s as often as I did in Albania. It’s a country that fascinates, mystifies. Another place, I can’t wait to go back.
slanted slopes of the Albanian “Alps”
…IN KOSOVO
Due to an unexpected turn of events, I suddenly found myself in Kosovo. I spent 24 hours in the city of Prizren trying to find Kosovo’s unique characteristics. Though I didn’t have enough time to find out, I enjoyed a sunny day by the river banks and an animated night in this charming city.
snacks in Prizren
I’ve attended TBEX, a travel bloggers conference
TBEX is the most renowned conference for travel bloggers taking place in North America and Europe every year. This year, it was the city of Athens hosting the conference and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to meet fellow bloggers and visit Greece for the first time. So off to Athens I went. The sessions at the conference taught me a lot about the ‘art’ of travel blogging: the social and the technical aspects. More importantly, the conference presented a chance to connect with colleagues and people in the industry. I met a wonderful community: creative people with strong drives looking to move forward, looking to inspire.
at TBEX in Athenssunset over Athens
What’s next? A PARTNERSHIP WITH VizEat
I’m happy to announce my partnership with VizEat, a revolutionized way of sharing a meal with a local during your travels or at home.. It’s a concept which I think will interest the traveling foodies out there. The idea is simple: you book a home cooked meal with a local in the country you’re visiting. The host dines with you, which creates a cosy opportunity for you get to know one another (and get the inside scoop of the place). Of course it works the other way too: you can have travellers dine at your house while you share food, stories and friendship. I’m excited to try it out and sharing the experience with you.
A TRAVEL DREAM COME TRUE
I’m writing this post at the airport. Waiting to board the flight to a destination which has been one of my dream destination for years. I’m off to… Iran!
I’m looking forward to experiencing first hand what it’s really like there, to meet the people, to roam the bazaars and to find myself amidst the relic remainders of ancient Persian myths and culture. I’ll be blogging about my experiences when I return.
WE’RE MOVING AGAIN!
Although we loved living in Bali, it’s time to try something new. So we’ve decided to settle on the other side of the world. We’re moving to Latin America!
I’ll be sharing more details by the end of the year.
If you can’t wait that long, make sure follow Travel Cake on Facebook or join the free monthly newsletter to get the scoop.
Have you been traveling recently? Where have you been? Any travel plans coming up?
It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.
I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”
“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.
In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.
With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.
While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…
So in no Particular order
1. Oman
I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.
wadi perfect for a dip
2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London
I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.
some amazing food in the area
3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali
This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic
rice fields around Ubud
4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe
As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.
sunset over the Zambezi
5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland
The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.
somewhere along the way
6. Living the island life in Zanzibar
I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.
Zanzibari fishing village
7. Morocco
Every time I go to MoroccoI’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.
Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou
8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste
It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventurethat made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.
coastline in Dili
9. Hiking Dominica
Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.
every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island
10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel
Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.
quiet streets of the old city
11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela
Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.
Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean
12. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!
Bhaktapur in the morning light
I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.
I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.
Rwanda is tiny African country sandwiched between some of East and Central Africa’s biggest: Uganda, Tanzania and The Congo. Its landlocked position, recent turbulent past and small size could be reason to question its tourism potential.
Having lived in Rwanda during my childhood and remembering the places we’d visit during the weekends and holidays, I could only regard Rwanda as a fantastic tourist destination. However, when I returned to Rwanda two weeks ago, I saw the country in a different light. I was no longer the expat getting the most out of my country of residence: this time around I was just a simple visitor. The country has changed so much since I left in ’94, so I got to reevaluate it completely, almost as if it was my first time there.
visiting my primary school
Although I enjoyed my stay in Rwanda, I heard many travellers complain about theirs. Most of them were let down because the country didn’t meet their expectations. Their disappointment led me to reflect on some of the things to anticipate when you’re considering to put Rwanda on your travel itinerary.
It’s expensive
Well, at least compared to neighbouring Uganda and Tanzania. Everything is more pricey: transportation, food, drinks, safaris, activities… Especially hotel costs will eat away at your budget. To give you an idea, we were charged about €23 to sleep in a standard tent- breakfast not included. A budget private double room cost about €40 per night. Cheaper rooms aren’t hard to come by, but it usually translates to sleeping in a stuffy, windowless closet. You can easily get around on a tighter budget if you’re prepared to rough it. Either way, in terms of value for money, Rwanda just doesn’t deliver.
from our expensive tent
Rules are rules and you will respect them
Rwanda has implemented strict rules and regulations which people follow well. For example, it’s the first non-Western country where I’ve seen motorcycle taxi drivers consistently wearing protective helmets and carrying around a second one for their passengers. The driver will not accept a passenger if he/she does not wear the helmet. Believe me, I’ve tried. The Rwandese seem to respect the new laws which minimises chaos and disorder throughout the country.
helmets are mandatory
It’s modern and well organised
Especially in the capital Kigali. There are street signs, a movie theatre, several coffeehouse franchises, wi-fi everywhere, taxis look new, the streets are clean and alined with tall flowery trees, there are side walks… Buses run on time and are filled to capacity- as opposed to double or triple in Uganda. This is less the case in rural areas and smaller cities but even so, it’s still relatively modern and organised.
Kigali city towermost establishments have decent wi-fi and 3G network works well
It’s quite safe- even after dark
There are many areas with street lighting in the cities and it’s not odd to see an expat jogging after sunset. That says a lot about safety if you ask me.
Non-biodegradable plastic bags are banned
They’re downright illegal. Upon arrival in the country, visitors’ luggages are checked for plastic bags. Anyone caught in the country using a plastic bag can get fined up to 150$. Store owners stocking them face one year of prison. It’s a harsh law but an effective one; you won’t see mountains of rubbish as you would in other African capitals. Rwanda is striving to become the world’s first plastic-free nation. A part from the thriving underground trade in plastic bags, it’s going in the right direction.
The roads are windy but in excellent condition
I would even say they are better than the ones in Belgium, Rwanda’s ex-metropole. Once you get off the beaten track standards drop but they remain OK. Driving a rental car should not be a problem unless you have a serious fear of heights. The road’s windiness can get to your stomach so if you’re prone to motion sickness, don’t forget to bring your pills.
well maintained, exotic roads
There is a strange language situation
English has only been an official language in Rwanda since 1994 and only in 2008 was the entire education system switched from French to English. French is still an official language alongside Kinyarwanda. It makes communication confusing; some people only know English -mostly in Kigali, others only know French and people with very little education only speak Kinyarwanda. As an English and French speaker, I found it awkward to start every single conversation guessing which language to use, mostly choosing the wrong one first.
So, is Rwanda a good travel destination or should you skip it?
The disappointed travellers I spoke to were looking for something Rwanda is not. They were looking for the raw, authentic, traditional Africa. They found Rwanda too clean, too sterile, too modern and to Westernised. Although these things are true, I found it rather refreshing to see a different Africa! A progressive Africa that is quickly moving forward, that is considerate towards the environment, that values expression through art, where thing are going well- at least on the surface.
That being said, I wouldn’t recommend it as a main destination for travellers looking for an essential Africa experience. It’s worth a detour when you’re in the area for example in combination with a trip to Uganda or Tanzania. If your trip is all about having a “gorillas in the mist” moment, then Rwanda is a must yet I’d still advise to add an extra destination to the trip.
Have you ever though of Rwanda as a destination? Africa in general?
