Without further ado, here are the next 20 travel experiences in no particular order:
80. Bathing in Budapest’s public baths in the snow
There is something incredibly ‘exotic’ to bathing in the outdoors with outside temperatures of -3°C . Add a stunning architectural backdrop and a blanket of snow and the picture is complete! At Széchenyi Thermal Baths
We tracked down the restaurants serving Michelin starred dim sum. “If I don’t like those, I can officially say I don’t like dim sum.” As it turns out, I do like dim sum! Click on title to read about surprising Hong Kong.
78. Floating in the dead sea in Israel
It’s a strange feeling to be almost completely weightless. Unlike anything else!
Swimming, eating, relaxing with cool beers, waking up to the chirp of little birds… That’s what our time in Bunyonyi was all about. Click on the title to read more about Lake Bunyonyi.
76. Crashing a grand Indian engagement party
The night I arrived in Delhi, my host took me to a party. Once there I realised it was a huge engagement party with incredible food, an open bar and blasting Bollywood music. Though totally underdressed and tired from my flight, I was warmly welcomed by my new friends.
75. Pick-nicking in the Summer Palace in St-Petersburg
As it was my travel mate’s birthday, we took the opportunity to indulge in a blini and caviar pick-nick with the Summer Palace as a backdrop. I don’t even like caviar but it seemed like the most appropriate thing to eat.
74. Spending 24 hours in Qatar with people I had never met before
A midnight drive around, shisha in the souq, Lebanese brunch and shopping in a recreation of Venice… Thanks to local expats who took me under their wings for 24 hours, I really enjoyed the city of Doha in Qatar.
73. Discovering the bizarre ghost towns of Western Sahara
Western Sahara is a peculiar country. The town seems deserted and overrun by desert sand, yet there is a certain mystique in the air… Notice this woman shovelling sand from her front door. The Saharan winds bring the dunes right into people’s homes…
The hummingbirds of Mindo touched my soul and brought back some inner peace . Click on the title to read more about magical Mindo.
71. Road tripping the Irish countryside
I was stunned by the natural beauty of the Irish country side. Stopping for a pint of Guiness and a minced meat pie in a local pub made the experience all the more memorable. A road trip not to be missed!
The rain doesn’t take hitchhikers into account… We hitched rides from Belgium to Denmark through The Netherlands and Germany. Even though we had it relatively easy being two women asking for a ride, hitch hiking turned out to be hard work! The exciting and fun kind of hard work. Click on the title to read about doing Copenhagen on the cheap.
68. Getting pampered with fantastic massages in Southeast Asia
Incredible how a luxury service in the West can be such an ordinary one in the East. Long live affordable massages and the soothing tea’s that follow!
67. Finding evidence of the slave trade in Ghana
Behind the walls of this fort, lie the dungeons where Ghanian men and women were held captive to be sold as slaves and shipped off in those parts of the world. You can actually still smell the human distress in the dungeons. very confronting…
66. Meeting the Garifuna tribe in Honduras
The Garifuna are descendants of the West African people living on the Central American Caribbean coast. They speak their own language and live in communities which reminded me very much of the African villages. Even their food and music have obvious African influences. It felt a little like home after having spent some time in Latin America.
65. Hiking to the top of Mt. Sinai to see the sunrise
The hike started in the middle of the night, following a trail of candle holding pilgrims. Once at the top we had just enough time to catch our breaths before the first rays of light made their appearance. Being surrounded by pilgrims singing, praying, crying and admiring the sun, it was almost a religious experience.
64. Fishing in South India
Though I didn’t work quite as hard as the fisherman, taking part of their daily activity and sharing the (slim) catch was nothing short of enriching.20 years earlier, I was doing the exact same thing (yes, that little girl in the bathing suit is me) Photo by A. Van Den Daele
63. Transforming into a Burmese lady in Myanmar
In a beauty parlour of small town in Myanmar, I found out the techniques Burmese ladies and ladyboys use to achieve their beauty ideal. Lightening the skin is just one of them. Here is the Burmese version of me and my talented make-up artist.
62. Snorkelling with manta rays
They’re so much bigger than I could have imagined, I was frightened. These majestic creatures slide under the surface of the ocean, not slightly fearing the clumsy “human fish”. Photo by Shawn Heinrichs
61. Going on spontaneous trips
There’s nothing more exciting than deciding to take a trip on a whim. Decide today, leave tomorrow… That’s how I ended up in Warsaw, Denmark, Paris, Kosovo, Brunei, Amsterdam, Cuba…
Continue reading part 3, part 4, part 5 and part 6! If you’ve mist the part 1, catch up here… I’ll be posting the rest of the list every other Thursday!
Are any of these experiences on your “been there done that” list?
As I previously mentioned in my post on backpacking in Africa, travelling in that part of the world can add up to be quite pricey. But with a little imagination and a sense of adventure you can travel/backpack in Africa on a relatively low budget. Of course, it will never be as low as India, Nepal or South East Asia but still cheap enough that anyone could afford it.
One of the African destinations that lends itself perfectly for an interesting, budget friendly Africa vacation is Uganda. I’ve visited the country twice, both times as a backpacker using public transportation.
This is what our budget backpack trip in Uganda looked like:
COUCHSURFING IN KAMPALA
I’ve quite often used Couch Surfing in my “travelling career”; both as the guest and as the host. When I Couch Surf, I usually do so in big cities as they can be quite overwhelming when you first arrive and I prefer experiencing sprawling urban area’s through the eyes of a local or expat instead of following a guide book.
As it usually goes with CS, you don’t always know where you will end up. We were in luck in Kampala and stayed with an awesome expat in one of the city’s fanciest areas, Kololo. Our host took us to his favourite spots in town where we chatted and laughed over some cool beers and fresh tilapia.
spending the night in a stylish loft with a view over Kampalaweekend at one of Kampala’s lake side beaches with beers and new friends
On the second trip, I stayed in a quaint hostel (ICU guesthouse, dorm 15$) on the edge of town where many semi-long term volunteers reside. Alternatively you could stay at Red Chili Hideway, it’s also outside of town but with a swimming pool and a free daily shuttle to the city centre. Red Chili offers a good deal on trips to Murchison Falls as well.
EATING ROLEX AND OTHER STREET FOOD
When on a budget, street food is the way to go. In Uganda, you’ll find grilled kebabs and barbecued bananas/corn -to name a few- sizzling on every street corner. The most popular (and in my opinion most tasty) street side snack are rolex (comes from ‘roll eggs’): a tomato-onion-paprika omelette rolled onto a freshly baked chapati. One would really have to have two left hands to mess this snack up! We’d eat rolex from the street almost every day for lunch and it never disappointed.
getting rolex by the lake, a shocking sight for Ugandans as rolex is considered a snack for the poor. Some find it hard to understand why a “rich” tourist would choose to eat rolex.the smell of the grilling meat is often much better than the quality of the pieces on your stick, unless you like bouncy, chewy meat …I know these deep fried grasshoppers don’t look particularly appealing, but they’re delicious! Like a cross between salted nuts and potato crisps. Anyways, they’re much cheaper than the ones you get in trendy restaurants in the West nowadays!
SAFARI’S AND HIKES IN QUEEN ELISABETH NATIONAL PARK
Just having just crossed the border form DRC (that’s a story for another post) we were in desperate need for some luxury and internet. So we threw our budget out of the window (for a day) and checked into a higher end lodge. Considering most lodges in and around the African national parks often have rates starting at €250 per night, this lodge – Kingfisher Lodge Kichwamba- was a bargain at €160 a night, breakfast and dinner included for both of us!
Disclaimer: these were the rates in 2011, converted with an interesting currency exchange from US Dollar to Euro. Today’s rates in Kingfisher Kichwamba start at 205$ for a double room, half board.
R&R in paradise after roughing it in DRC.
It was exactly what we needed: relaxing by the pool, a western meal á la carte, getting some work done, a much needed wifi fix and a view to die for.
infinity pool with endless views over Queen Elisabeth National Parkspotted some elephants from our room’s porchnot a bad way to get some work done!
After soaking in as much as possible from our splurge, we returned to our backpacker’s reality the next day. We hitchhiked to Simba Safari Camp where we stayed in a dorm, talk about contrasts! It’s a great budget place to stay, they also offer private rooms.
hitchhiking on the equator
From there we arranged a boat safari on the Kazinga Channel, bringing along a cold beer to enjoy with the scenery. You don’t need to book a package tour, you can easily arrange transport to the departure point and buy a ticket for the boat trip once you are there. Though I can’t recall the exact price, I can tell you it was definitely less than 30$ per person.
crusing down the channel, spotting wild life and having a cold one… What a chilled out way to spend an afternoon!
Instead of booking a multi-day safari package, we hired a car with driver to take us on a game drive in the national park. Though Queen Elisabeth NP may be far from the most impressive safari I’ve been on, it very well is the cheapest. Perfect for animal lovers on a budget!
crown birds at dawncrater lakegetting close to some lazy lions
There’s plenty to do in QE National Park like chimp tracking or looking for tree climbing lions but we opted for a more economical activity: hiking in ‘Maramagambo Forest’. Since we already had a car and driver for the day, the only cost left was that of the entrance fee to the forest and a tip for the guide taking you along the trails, pointing out various species of primates, birds and medicinal plants.
Our main reason to hit the forest, was to see the massive python living in a bat cave. Apparently, it doesn’t hunt, it just opens its mouth and waits for one of the thousands of bats to fly in. This is all the python does, all day long. Therefore it has gotten so fat, it can hardly move. We were keen on seeing the spectacle. Unfortunately we missed the freak show as the python had already returned deep inside the cave after its daily suntanning moment, when it drags itself out of the cave.
a beautiful walk through the forest in search of the fat lazy pythonnow that’s what I call a bat cave!
TOTAL RELAXATION BY LAKE BUNYONYI
Next we headed to Lake Bunyonyi, if you’ve been following this blog for a while, you might have read my post on Lake Bunyonyi, my favourite spot in Africa so far.
Lake Bunyonyi
Both times we stayed in a magical place called Byoona Amagara, definitely the best value lodge I’ve stayed in. For just 15$ per person per night, we had a small geodome with private bathroom and a stunning view over the Ugandan lake. They also provide dorms (7$) if you’re really tight on cash but the beauty of staying here is undoubtedly the geodome experience. There are plenty of other places to stay on Lake Bunyonyi, I haven’t tried any of them as I’m totally hooked on Byoona Amagara…
(clockwise) typical Bunyonyi flowery tree, stretching with my sister on our geodome’s sun deck, boating on the lake, view from the bed in the large geodomethe small geodome, no doors. Just a mosquito net between nature and yourself.eco-shower with a view
The entire trip in Uganda took us about 10 days, travelling quite slowly, spending enough time at each destination. You could backpack the same trip in fewer days but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. If you have more time, why not add a stop in Jinja and/or a jaunt to Murchison falls to see more animals and a stunning waterfall.
Have you been to Uganda? Would you consider going?
Almost every time I excitedly announced I was headed to Iran, the most puzzled looks thrown my way. Reactions ranging from “Are you nuts?! You’re gonna get yourself killed!” to a calmer “Iran? What’s in Iran?”. No one ever asks you that when you say you’re going to Thailand or France… It seems like “war, nuclear bombs, danger, terror and veiled women” are what spring to most people’s mind when they think of Iran.
Since so little people know about Iran as a tourist destination, I’ve decided to help chase this incorrect image of Iran out of the world. The way popular media is portraying the country at the moment, is far from the reality I have seen and experienced. It’s time to bust the misconception.
not so scary
So what’s in Iran worth travelling for?
Divine architecture
No matter which city or town you go to, you’ll surely find yourself facing a building in total awe at some point. Palaces, mosques, mansions… They’ll draw your attention with their ornate facades and colourful domes. This was the original reason why I wanted to travel to Iran even though I’m not particularly an architecture buff.
Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahanjust a few examples of Iran’s divine architecture (click to enlarge)
Tea and delicious treats
We stopped for tea breaks at least twice a day, every day. Alcohol is not officially available so instead of having a beer or a glass of wine on a terrace, in Iran you’ll sip on tea -usually served in beautiful cups and accompanied by an assortment of sweets typical of the region. A simple tea break then turns into such a treat, especially if held in one of the many pretty tea gardens or courtyards.
tea with saffron sugarin a tea garden with fresh dates on the sidetea with regional sweets
Warm and welcoming people
I was recently asked where I found the friendliest people during my travels. It’s a hard question to answer as I’ve encountered so many friendly nations but I must say, Iran is definitely in my top 3. Not only were the people genuinely friendly and interested in the visitor, they’d invite us to have dinner at their house, they’d talk to us on the street- just to say welcome, they’d pay for our bus rides- just because. No hidden agenda, just out of hospitality. Iranians did everything in their power to make us feel at home in their country. Seldom have I seen a nation as giving and as enthusiastic about welcoming visitors. For meeting the people alone, Iran is worth a trip; you wouldn’t even need to visit anything.
women taking time off work to welcome us to their countryso much love…
Cool rooftops
One of my favourite things to do in Iran was to climb up to the roof of a building. Unlike any of the roofs I have seen before, I often imagined I had landed on another planet. The interesting part is that the unusual constructions on the roofs all have a well thought purpose for you to find out. The rooftops are ideal places to watch the sun set over the city.
rooftop, free tourist attraction… (click to enlarge)
Lively bazars where you can shop in peace
I’m a big fan of browsing bazars and I generally accept the hassle that often comes with it. Every town in Iran boasts at least one bazar featuring some top notch goods. The best part however, is that they are pretty much hassle free! You can browse the stands in peace without feeling pressure from the salesman to buy every item you glance at. The shopkeeper will take his time to explain things if you ask, to show you other options if you’re interested and to give you a taste if you seem puzzled. All the while giving you a genuine smiling nod if you walk away. This is bazar shopping at its best!
bazar shopping (click to enlarge)
A great variety of landscapes
You can’t put Iran in a box when it comes to landscapes: snowy mountains (where you can ski in winter!), flower clad hills, arid desert plains, moon landscapes, palm fringed islands, woodlands… You’ll find it all within the borders of the country. If you enjoy the outdoors, you’ll probably have a tough time deciding where to go.
sandduneswoodlands and waterfalls, yes this too is Iran! (source)dried up salt lake
UNESCO heritage sites
There are 17 UNESCO heritage site in Iran at the moment and you’ll probably have an opinion on which sites should be added to the list once you start visiting the country. I’m not a UNESCO site hunter but the list is usually a great indicator of how impressive/valuable a site is. The most renowned one must be Persepolis, the name alone would have you dreaming. Walking through it and listening to the tales of ancient Persia only continues to bring your imagination in overdrive.
gates of PersepolisPersepolis
An exciting food adventure
The Persian cuisine is unlike any of the cuisines I have tasted so far. The ingredients are relatively standard but the way they are put together results in flavours that were entirely new to my tastebuds. I tried finding significant similarities with other cuisines but failed to do so. If you’re not too lazy to look beyond the widely available fast food (pizza, hamburger, kebab and Turkish dürüm) there is a huge array of local dishes that will take you through an exciting food adventure.
a culinary discovery with every meal (click to enlarge)
3000+ year old mud castles to explore
Yes, that’s 3000, no typo here. That’s how old some of the Persian mud castles are. Some are still in a good enough state for you to enter, wander around and get lost. No guards, no ropes, Indiana Jones style minus the booby traps. You’ll probably be the only one there which make the experience even more fascinating.
one of the many mud castles we played instill in good state
A refined and interesting culture
Persian culture is very elegant and refined. Poetry, fine music, great literature… It has a very distinct identity which, contrary to what many people believe, is nothing like the Arab or Ottoman culture. As a regular tourist, you’ll just be scrapping of the surface, but it’s enough to get a taste or to get hooked and start digging deeper.
The people of Iran are very aware of the bad reputation their country is receiving abroad and they try everything they can to show travellers that Iran is not a bloodthirsty, dangerous nation full of criminals or terrorists. We were often asked what people back home thought of Iran. Unfortunately we had to confirm their fear and admit most people didn’t have a great image of the country. They asked us to tell our story, to tell people the truth about Iran and its people since they can’t. I hope this post convinces even just one person, that Iran is a beautiful, interesting and safe place to travel to.
Every time I spend a reasonable amount of time in a big city, I try to look for some funny, cool, quirky things to do besides the general tourist attractions. As this was my second time in Bogotá, it didn’t take me long to have completed the list of “must-sees”.
Though I found Latin America to be generally less quirky than Asia, there are still plenty of unusual, zany thing to be found. This is what I found during my week in Bogotá…
The women’s wellness hostel spa focusses on the well being and relaxation of female travellers, more specifically women who have just undergone cosmetic surgery and those travelling to Bogotá for child birth. First of all, let me tell you this: cosmetic surgery tourism, is absolutely a thing in Colombia. You’ll find women from all over the country as well as international travellers flocking to the capital for their ‘grade A’ surgeries. Colombia is reputed to have some of the best cosmetic surgeons in the region at a fair price (about one third of the price in the USA or Europe).
Now, there’s no need to get “work done” to stay at this hostel as they welcome ALL women, surgery vacation or not. They have a small gym, a beauty salon and a homely spa to offer their guest some relaxing “me-time”. I stayed a couple of nights (FYI, I had no surgery done, it just seemed fun to stay at a women’s only hostel for a change) and indulged in a spa night: sauna, massage by the chiminea, full body scrub, chocolate body mask and candlelit jacuzzi. I had the spa all to myself and was guided by a masseuse with golden hands who took care of me so well, I felt like royalty. The rates per night are hostel rates so don’t expect a fancy spa… It’s more like a cosy home stay.
jacuzzi fit for a queen…
The room was small but tidy; perfect to reconnect with myself after a lot of traveling. The hostel is far from the centre though, so if your mind is set on exploring the old centre, this is not the place to be. If you’ve already visited Bogotá and are in town just to catch your flight, it’s definitely a spot to consider.
the single room, Colombian breakfast (huevos revueltos, arepa and hot chocolate with panela, fresh juice), the massage table by the chiminea
Rates are approx. 26$ for a double room, 21$ for a single, breakfast included. You can book with them directly or through your usual hostel booking site. Calle 159 A N° 22 – 11, Bogotá.
2. Beer and explosives: Play a few rounds of Tejo
A game where beer flows heavily and explosives spark up continuously, what could possibly go wrong? Tejo is one of Colombia’s traditional ancient sports. Though the sport/game in itself doesn’t necessarily involve drinking, the informal tournaments today are often played while consuming (lots) of beer. To play the game’s simplified version, contestants throw a round metal puck, a tejo, across the lane to hit a target about 20 meters away. What’s the target? Small triangular envelopes filled with gun powder secured with clay on a board. Each time your tejo hits the gunpowder an explosion occurs and you score points! With the explosions come cheering, laughing and -there it is- large quantities of beer.
ready to playgunpowder envelope and tejo
Tejo has become a popular backpackers’ activity and many hostels organise “tejo nights” with a “drink-all-the-beer-you-can” formula.
3. Dunk your cheese in a cup of hot sugar water: Aguapanela con queso
You can try aguapanela all over the country, you could even find it in other Latin American countries but it’s said to be a Colombian speciality. Hot aguapanela is made by melting some ‘panela’ into hot water. Panela is a product made from sugar cane, tasting somewhat similar to brown sugar. Supposedly, it boasts lot’s of healthy components such as vitamin C (more than in fresh orange juice) and rehydrating minerals. I don’t know, it tasted just like sugar to me. Aguapanela can be drunk cold, perhaps with a squeeze of lemon or hot, with a splash of (chocolate)milk. According to Colombian tradition, hot aguapanela is best enjoyed by dunking a chunk of fermented cheese in your cup. For someone like me, who has mostly given up sugar, this was an absolutely undrinkable concoction. But definitely worth a try if you’re looking to attempt new things and are interested in the country’s traditions.
4. Quadruple your spare change on the streets: Gamble on a guinea pig
The concept is simple, a man on the street lays a bunch of numbered plastic cups upside down in a circle. You place your bet, thus your spare change, on top of what you think will be the winning cup. The host of the game then releases one of his guinea pigs who will chose the winning cup. If the rodent enters the cup your change is sitting on, you are the winner and you will receive 4 or 5 times the money you bet. You lose your change if the guinea pig doesn’t chose your cup. Of course the odds are not very favourable and these animals are trained, so it’s not really a trustworthy game, as with most street games. It is an entertaining street act however. You should see participating as dropping a few coins in the hat of a street artist. If you are concerned about animal cruelty, I can’t really say what these animals’ lives are like, but they all looked healthy, well fed and groomed.
tourists en locals in full suspense…
You can run into these games on the streets of Bogotá as well as in other Colombian cities.
5. Dine and Dance in hell, purgatory or heaven: Andrés D.C.
I wouldn’t know how else to describe this restaurant other than quirky. Andrés D.C. prides itself with 4 floors of total madness. The top floor represents heaven and as you lower down, you’ll reach earth, purgatory and eventually hell. Upon entering the restaurant, you won’t know where to look: the decor is insane featuring all kinds of kitsch trinkets, all matching the floor’s theme. Then, there is the staff bouncing around in wacky outfits (think disco dude or lady from a Botero painting- with fake, disproportioned arms and behinds). Once you’re seated, try to chose an item from the menu… I think it’s the longest menu I’ve ever seen: it’s a bout 30 pages long. While you try to make what seems like an impossible choice, the staff will serenade you, make you dance, bring props for you to wear… They’re not just your waiters, they are your entertainment for the night.
the crazier, the betterserenaded by the entertainers
You never know what might happen next while you’re sipping on your “lethal mojito”. If the loud music, the laughter and the cocktails have given you an appetite for a dance, just head to hell where you can devilishly swing your hips while you wait for your food. The food is very tasty but let’s face it, you don’ t really dine here for the grub… It’s the atmosphere and the original concept that make this restaurant worthwhile.
Andrés D.C. is extremely popular, so make sure you have a reservation or you’re in for a very long wait. Now that’s what I would call hell. Calle 82, No. 12-21, C.C. El Retiro, Zona Rosa, Bogotá
Have you been to Bogota? What did you think of the city?
I’m staring out the bus window with a intense frown covering my face. The lush Andes landscape rolling by, leaves me almost indifferent. I realise what beauty surrounds me, but I just can’t enjoy it. The combination of high altitude and winy mountain roads leading us up and down the hills has left me with the worst feeling of nausea I have ever experienced. I try to remember the last time I felt this way as a reminder that, just like last time, the nausea will eventually go away…
I dig deep into my memory and then remember… Last time I felt this horrible was over one year ago on the never ending journey to the Togean Islands in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A 16 hour drive swinging through hairpin turns with a sleepy driver that had partied all night, followed by a sleepless night in a cockroach infested hotel with an active karaoke bar right next door to it. The jaunt continued the next morning with a 4 hour boat ride full of seasick people vomiting in plastic bags only to be finished with one more boat ride to our final destination: Kadidiri paradise. And paradise, it was.
I close my eyes in an attempt to day dream away from the motion sickness in the Ecuadorian bus. My thoughts slowly sink to the unspoilt Togean beaches.
sailing past inhabited islandsarriving at our resortWelcome to paradise…
There was not much to do on these islands. No internet nor phone reception… A total digital detox and relaxation in it’s most original form. Our days were spent snorkelling in the crystal clear waters right outside our doorstep…
Saving the coral from the “evil” crown-of-thorns starfish…
Daydreaming in a hammock…
Catching up on some reading…
Scuba diving to some incredible locations like Una Una, an active underwater Volcano…
Floating in a jelly fish lake (of course, they don’t sting)…
Drinking cool (overpriced) beer with friends while watching the sun set into the ocean…
The journey to the Togeans was a tough one but most definitely worth it. If you decide to spend a few days or weeks on the Togean islands, I recommend you bring your favourite snacks and maybe a bottle of booze to create your own cocktails on the beach. Kadidiri Paradise has only one tiny shop, selling some Pringles and a few other nibbles. You’ll get bored of them after a few days, I’m sure. Though the price of your room includes three hearty meals a day, you might get hungry in between meals, that’s when the snacks come in handy.
Don’t forget to pack a good amount of entertainment: frisbee, beach ball, books, notebooks, chess set… Whatever takes your fancy.
Have you ever done a digital detox? Would you need one?
For as long as I can remember, I’ve always dreamt of going to a “real” oasis in the desert. You know, like the ones you seen in movies or cartoons: a palm tree clad village with an abundance of water and crops, smack in the middle of sand plains and dust. A place where you could sit by a well in the shadow of a tree in total silence and watch the occasional heard of sheep pass by.
That’s exactly what Garmeh is like. Somewhere in Iran’s central desert, Dashte- kavir, lies this tiny village irrigated by a small mountain spring. Garmeh has been welcoming and accommodating travellers for hundreds of years as it was one of the pitstops on the famous silk road.
the oasis of Garmeh- click to enlarge
Getting there and away was far from easy. It entailed several vehicles switches, each time leaving us on the side of a dusty road. Thanks to our non-existent Persian language skills, we only had our hands and smiles to ask for direction and communicate with people on the way. But Iranians, friendly and helpful as they are, always found a way to make us feel at ease and see us through to the next leg of our journey.
one of the most unique looking guesthouses I’ve ever stayed inpet’s at Ateshooni
Our days were filled with walks, relaxation and interesting conversations with other travelleres- half of which were young Iranians.
walking around the villagereading, discussing, laughing with travellers in the guesthouse’s living roomin the village
Our nights were spent entranced by Maziar Ale Davoud’s live music, artist and owner of the guest house. Followed by stargazing and eye-opening conversations whilst sipping tea in miniature cups and nibbling on fresh dates.
We were spoilt with incredible meals three times a day.
getting acquainted with the unique flavours of Persian cuisine
It was so idyllic we ended up booking an extra night- which would have turned into a week were our days in Iran not restricted by a tourist visa.
couldn’t resist spending another day in this little paradise
After a few days in Garmeh, I was not ready to kiss the desert sands goodbye. So we extended our trip by spending the night in another settlement in the desert; “Mesr” near Farahzad. We stayed in ‘Barandaz lodge’, another family run guesthouse with an attached farm. Though the oasis was not as picture perfect as in Garmeh, what we got here was another classic desert scene; enormous sand dunes. Perfect for dune bashing at sunset.
romance at its bestour play ground just after sunsetwarming up our feet after running around barefooted in the dunescamel burgers for dinner
The mornings were just as magical. As the sun rose, you could feel the entire farm and its surrounding rising too. Cows and sheep enjoying(?) their morning milking sessions, camels being taken out for their morning walk, the sun slowly heating up the yellow sand and tea getting to a boil on an open fire.
chasing the rebellious camel that got away from the pack
While this all was going on, there was silence. That strange kind of silence where you do hear things are going on, but their sound disappear in the greater silence. The loudest noise around are your thoughts. Eventually those too quiet down until they are completely mute.
“I think I’m in love with the desert”, I confessed to Douglas. He shot me a jealous look and we never spoke of it again.
photo by Douglas Deleu
We left Dashte-Kavir too soon, but then again, same thing goes for pretty much every destination we visited in Iran.
How do you feel about the desert? Is it an environment you like?
The post “Desert Oasis of your Dreams: Garmeh, Iran” first appeared on Travel Cake.
I wasn’t sure what “on a budget” in Albania would mean exactly. Would my daily lunches consist of a raw cucumber from the market? Would I be forced to skip the bus fee in order to save a few bucks? Would I be sleeping in dirty dungeons, sharing bathrooms with 10 other people?
None of that was the case, especially not the latter. I stayed in a few memorable and great value spots in Albania that I’ve been recommending to fellow travellers. So why not share them on this platform too?!
One of the important contributors of my mind blowing stay in the Albanian Alps was definitely the Rilinja guesthouse. I was sold the minute I laid eyes on the quaint chalet in the woods.
easy to find
What’s so awesome about it: your own balconied room in a chalet amidst the glorious forest trees, offering views over the mountains and a fast streaming river. Or the crackling fire warming up the reception/restaurant welcoming you after a strenuous hike. The restaurant, located right beneath your room boasting a menu full of delicious Northern Albanian specialities -I happened to have tried almost everything on the menu and I can say with confidence, all the dishes are very tasty.
scrumptious dinner and wine with new friends – click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– the most beautiful hiking trails start near the guesthouse- maps can be provided
one of the hikes starting from the guesthouse
– they serve an excellent home brewed red, which comes in very copious amounts
– the restaurant/reception is a fantastic place to meet and socialise with other travellers.
Extra info: keep in mind that the rooms are small and their walls are paper thin. But in such a beautiful environment, you’ll be out and about all day, using your room only to crash exhaustedly at night.
your back yard
Rates start at €30 for a double including a huge breakfast. Share the room with a travel mate and you’ve got yourself a great budget deal! Prices are lower during the winter. Camping spots are available for €2. Do make a reservation through their website, especially during the weekend as the place can get packed with local tourists.
Florian’s guesthouse and it’s orchards – click to enlarge
On your way to Valbona, you’ll probably have to make an overnight stop in Shkodër, that is if you’re taking the scenic route there. It’s a small town that has a few charms and can be wandered around in a day, two at the most. But it was Florian’s guesthouse that made Shkodër memorable to me.
What’s so awesome about it: the guesthouse is out of town so you will get a bicycle (for free) to ride to the centre. That 5-6 minute ride on the Albanian streets in itself, is an adventure you will not forget. You’ll be eating organic, with produce coming right out of the back yard, straight onto your plate. You can even pick some of the veggies yourself, if you like. It’s the place to be for an authentic Albanian family experience: having “family” dinners with the hosts and other guests while surrounded by orchards and countryside peace. You’ll drink home made wine and rakia while sharing travel tales and have the opportunity to learn about Albania’s past and present through the fascinating stories of your host.
at the dinner table, clockwise: organic home made wine, birthday cake and rakia for desert, dining on home grown produce, veggie soup- click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– fun loving, warm and welcoming host Florian
– free use of bicycles
– full board option for €4 extra. Home made wine included!
laughing, toasting, drinking in true Albanian style
Extra info: the dorm is nothing to write home about, but it’s the cosy atmosphere and that pureness of rural Albania that will make your stay unforgettable.
Countryside scenes right outside your doorstep
Rates start at €11 per person including breakfast. Add €4 and you get lunch, dinner and wine. How’s that for good value?!
adding my pick of the day to my breakfast- click to enlarge
I loved Berat’s charm so much, it brought tears to my eyes. Spending hours breaking a sweat going up and down the cobbled streets, I was happy to end the day in relaxed atmosphere with a cool beer and friendly conversation at the Berat Backpackers hostel.
clean spacious dorm with beautiful views
What’s so awesome about it: a gorgeously renewed Berat style historical house. You won’t just be visiting Berat, but really living in it. A relaxed atmosphere lending itself perfectly for socialising with guests and staff in the hip communal living room or sitting quietly in the courtyard reading a book while plump pomegranates fall from the trees as they ripen.
Bonus points:
– right in the middle of one of the historical centres
view outside the hostel
– option to have a communal dinner in the hostel
– come at the right time and you might be able to help turn the grape/fruit harvest into wine/jams… the traditional way.
the traditional way… Photo by Berat Backpackers
Extra info: I stayed at the hostel during low season so it was very quiet. During the summertime however, it’s very animated. Note that Berat Backpackers is closed during the winter (December 1st 2014- March 15th 2015). Rates start at €6 for camping, €10 for a dorm bed in low season (€12 in high season) and € 12 per person for a private double.
All three of these guesthouses added that extra magic to my Albania travel. If you happen to travel that way, I strongly recommend you checking them out.
Which one would have your fancy? What kind of accommodation do you prefer? Hotels or guesthouses/hostels?
Weeping in the name of overwhelming charm and beauty is a thing, right? Well it was for me: I definitely had to hold back a tear or two. They might have been tears of general happiness in combination with the setting I was walking around in. Berat was deserted as the tourist season had completely ended. It was the best autumn weather you can imagine; warm, sunny and slightly golden.
As I was walking through Berat’s narrow UNESCO protected alleys, I thought of this incredible solo trip I was undertaking. I had stumbled from one unexpected beauty onto the next. A certain peace came over me, I knew this was the end of an era. I knew this was the closing of my 20’s, even though that chapter wasn’t officially over 6 months from then. I smiled. I thought about everything I had done during the past decade: the people I had met, the unique place I had visited… No regrets, well maybe just a few. But I’m getting into another story here. Back to Berat. Loved it. Undoubtedly a place to put on your radar.
It’s quite a low key town, so you won’t have that pressure to tick off must see items. The best way to explore is just by wandering the streets.
the old townbroad sidewalks fringed with cafés and local fast food jointsleisurely walks all dayfishing
During the day you meet children at play, grandmothers carrying big baskets of fresh produce, grazing donkeys, fruits sellers and the odd bystander who curiously asks why you came to Albania and, of course, if you like the country. Though people don’t speak much English, the younger generation loves to practice the few key phrases they’ve been learning at school. When it comes to slightly older Albanians, you have a better chance at communicating in Italian or German.
fruit selling with a viewhide and seekdonkey on the way home
A relatively easy hike to the top of the town’s hill will bring you to the castle overlooking Berat. Inside the castle is an entire neighbourhood called Kalasa. Imagine white washed stone houses with pretty flowery yards and fruit orchards, old ladies selling bobbin lace and home made jams from seasonal organic fruit… So pure.
Get lost in the picturesque streets and at one point or another, you will find yourself on the top of the hill, by the ruins of the Inner Fortress. That’s where you take in the magnificent views over Berat and its surroundings. A stop in the tiny Onufri museum is worth the €2 if there aren’t many other visitors.
walking in Kalasaview from the top
Don’t forget to take lots of breaks to replenish with some Albanian coffee and delicious food. I was invited several times by locals for a coffee at their house. Free coffee with a moral obligation to at least buy some sweet home made jam.
just paint “Kafe” on the side of your house et voilà…my hostess carefully brewing me a cupthick strong coffee and jams, what else do you need?exquisite stuffed eggplant at Mangalemi restaurant
Each time I’d head back to my hostel, I’d stop by the fruit stand to contribute (a little) to the local economy by buying some pomegranates and apples. Dirt cheap and incredibly juicy, how could you resist?!
daily dose of vitamins
I don’t know what Berat looks like in summer (probably full of tourists) but I do know that October was a perfect time of the year to visit. The “Town of a Thousand Windows”, what an enchanting place.
