Almost every time I excitedly announced I was headed to Iran, the most puzzled looks thrown my way. Reactions ranging from “Are you nuts?! You’re gonna get yourself killed!” to a calmer “Iran? What’s in Iran?”. No one ever asks you that when you say you’re going to Thailand or France… It seems like “war, nuclear bombs, danger, terror and veiled women” are what spring to most people’s mind when they think of Iran.
Since so little people know about Iran as a tourist destination, I’ve decided to help chase this incorrect image of Iran out of the world. The way popular media is portraying the country at the moment, is far from the reality I have seen and experienced. It’s time to bust the misconception.
not so scary
So what’s in Iran worth travelling for?
Divine architecture
No matter which city or town you go to, you’ll surely find yourself facing a building in total awe at some point. Palaces, mosques, mansions… They’ll draw your attention with their ornate facades and colourful domes. This was the original reason why I wanted to travel to Iran even though I’m not particularly an architecture buff.
Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahanjust a few examples of Iran’s divine architecture (click to enlarge)
Tea and delicious treats
We stopped for tea breaks at least twice a day, every day. Alcohol is not officially available so instead of having a beer or a glass of wine on a terrace, in Iran you’ll sip on tea -usually served in beautiful cups and accompanied by an assortment of sweets typical of the region. A simple tea break then turns into such a treat, especially if held in one of the many pretty tea gardens or courtyards.
tea with saffron sugarin a tea garden with fresh dates on the sidetea with regional sweets
Warm and welcoming people
I was recently asked where I found the friendliest people during my travels. It’s a hard question to answer as I’ve encountered so many friendly nations but I must say, Iran is definitely in my top 3. Not only were the people genuinely friendly and interested in the visitor, they’d invite us to have dinner at their house, they’d talk to us on the street- just to say welcome, they’d pay for our bus rides- just because. No hidden agenda, just out of hospitality. Iranians did everything in their power to make us feel at home in their country. Seldom have I seen a nation as giving and as enthusiastic about welcoming visitors. For meeting the people alone, Iran is worth a trip; you wouldn’t even need to visit anything.
women taking time off work to welcome us to their countryso much love…
Cool rooftops
One of my favourite things to do in Iran was to climb up to the roof of a building. Unlike any of the roofs I have seen before, I often imagined I had landed on another planet. The interesting part is that the unusual constructions on the roofs all have a well thought purpose for you to find out. The rooftops are ideal places to watch the sun set over the city.
rooftop, free tourist attraction… (click to enlarge)
Lively bazars where you can shop in peace
I’m a big fan of browsing bazars and I generally accept the hassle that often comes with it. Every town in Iran boasts at least one bazar featuring some top notch goods. The best part however, is that they are pretty much hassle free! You can browse the stands in peace without feeling pressure from the salesman to buy every item you glance at. The shopkeeper will take his time to explain things if you ask, to show you other options if you’re interested and to give you a taste if you seem puzzled. All the while giving you a genuine smiling nod if you walk away. This is bazar shopping at its best!
bazar shopping (click to enlarge)
A great variety of landscapes
You can’t put Iran in a box when it comes to landscapes: snowy mountains (where you can ski in winter!), flower clad hills, arid desert plains, moon landscapes, palm fringed islands, woodlands… You’ll find it all within the borders of the country. If you enjoy the outdoors, you’ll probably have a tough time deciding where to go.
sandduneswoodlands and waterfalls, yes this too is Iran! (source)dried up salt lake
UNESCO heritage sites
There are 17 UNESCO heritage site in Iran at the moment and you’ll probably have an opinion on which sites should be added to the list once you start visiting the country. I’m not a UNESCO site hunter but the list is usually a great indicator of how impressive/valuable a site is. The most renowned one must be Persepolis, the name alone would have you dreaming. Walking through it and listening to the tales of ancient Persia only continues to bring your imagination in overdrive.
gates of PersepolisPersepolis
An exciting food adventure
The Persian cuisine is unlike any of the cuisines I have tasted so far. The ingredients are relatively standard but the way they are put together results in flavours that were entirely new to my tastebuds. I tried finding significant similarities with other cuisines but failed to do so. If you’re not too lazy to look beyond the widely available fast food (pizza, hamburger, kebab and Turkish dürüm) there is a huge array of local dishes that will take you through an exciting food adventure.
a culinary discovery with every meal (click to enlarge)
3000+ year old mud castles to explore
Yes, that’s 3000, no typo here. That’s how old some of the Persian mud castles are. Some are still in a good enough state for you to enter, wander around and get lost. No guards, no ropes, Indiana Jones style minus the booby traps. You’ll probably be the only one there which make the experience even more fascinating.
one of the many mud castles we played instill in good state
A refined and interesting culture
Persian culture is very elegant and refined. Poetry, fine music, great literature… It has a very distinct identity which, contrary to what many people believe, is nothing like the Arab or Ottoman culture. As a regular tourist, you’ll just be scrapping of the surface, but it’s enough to get a taste or to get hooked and start digging deeper.
The people of Iran are very aware of the bad reputation their country is receiving abroad and they try everything they can to show travellers that Iran is not a bloodthirsty, dangerous nation full of criminals or terrorists. We were often asked what people back home thought of Iran. Unfortunately we had to confirm their fear and admit most people didn’t have a great image of the country. They asked us to tell our story, to tell people the truth about Iran and its people since they can’t. I hope this post convinces even just one person, that Iran is a beautiful, interesting and safe place to travel to.
Day trips… they’re convenient when you want to see as much of a region as possible in a short amount of time. However, there are quite a lot of these convenient trips that really don’t do the place justice. You find yourself with hundreds if not thousands of day trippers, packed in the same shops and highlighted areas, you miss the perfect lighting for incredible photo’s at dusk or dawn and most importantly, you by-pass the soul of that place.
It happened to me a few times while other on other occasions I saw it happening to others. I’ve put together a list of places where I’ve either been bummed out not to have spent the night or have been extremely happy not to be part of the day tripper groups visiting the town.
1. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Often done as quick side trip from Kathmandu, most visitors only get a glimpse of the cultural gem of Bhaktapur. A day trip here will allow you to spend a few hours in the central area, have lunch in a reputed restaurants’ and shop in one of the many little kiosks surrounding the main square. It’s a small city swarming with monuments, religious shrines, gilded roofs and palaces with elaborate carvings which you could explore in just a day. However…
Bhaktapur is like and open air museum only it’s not staged
What you miss by making it a day trip
The essence of Bhaktapur is only to be experienced at sunrise. That’s when the people change Bhaktapur into a magical place. Women and children step out of their houses with platters full of offerings and start their rounds for the gods. They stop at every shrine and every corner of spiritual importance to bring an offering, say a prayer and conduct complex rituals which you, as an outsider, couldn’t possibly wrap your mind around. The smell of incense fills up the crisp morning air while the weak sun rays highlight some of Bhaktapur’s finest art.
As I mentioned before, Bhaktapur is one of my 12 favourite destinations of all times and the mornings are exactly what made this place more memorable and alluring than others. Coming here on a day trip would mean missing the morning’s enchantment, when the tourists are still in bed in Kathmandu and the town is the playground of the people and their gods.
morning offerings
2. Guatape, Colombia
I visited Guatape as a day trip from Medellin by public transport. About halfway through the day, I kicked myself in the head for not being able to spend the night in this extremely colourful town.
Guatape
What you miss by making it a day trip
Though Guatape is very small and you definitely could see everything in just a few hours, what I missed was the great lighting you would find early in the morning and in the evenings. Even if you’re not into photography, you’ll probably want to extensively photograph Guatape. It might be the cutest, most colourful town I’ve ever seen. The bright sunlight during the day makes it tough to capture all the details without harsh shadows overcasting the scenes. We noticed the town turning even more stunning as the late afternoon sun set in. Unfortunately, that was also our cue to head back since we didn’t want to arrive at the Medellin bus terminal at night. Dinner and a cool beer at sunset would have been the way to end the day in Guatape.
wishing we could captured the town during sunset
3. Bethlehem, West Bank
Busloads of tourists coming from Jerusalem,Israel swarm the central square of Bethlehem in Palestine every day. The tours take care of the border crossing, a visit to the historical/religious sanctuaries and safely return the tourists back to Israel after having visited the supposed birthplace of Jezus Christ. Although I understand the importance for many to visit a place of such significance, there is much more to Bethlem/Palestine…
the wall separating Israel and West-Bank
What you miss by making it a day trip
By staying in Bethlehem we were able to visit (and spent a few nights in) a refugee camp, talk to the people of Palestine, get into the current culture, broaden our knowledge on the complex situation… Missing these experiences is missing the point of going to Bethlehem. If you want to see where Jezus was born, shouldn’t you see and experience the place it is today as well? My stay in Palestine was eye-opening on so many levels, I could only feel regret for the people who were missing out on the enrichment by only being exposed to a particular church and shrines. If you want to know more about travel in West Bank, read my post to find out what’s in Palestine.
kids at school in refugee camp, the market, Douglas getting a shave, Palestinian specialties, having mint tea on the street in Bethlehem (click to enlarge)
4. Pamukkale, Turkey
The cotton castle of Turkey, usually visited as part of a day trip from resorts on the Turkish Riviera. I was surprised to see hundreds of tourists on the site but only a handful of hotels in the town; hello day trippers.
Pamukkale
What you miss by making it a day trip
Stay the night in the town of Pamukkale and you’ll have the otherwise overrun by tourist cotton castle all to yourself at the crack of dawn. I was the first person to enter the site that day and had teary eyes when I was confronted with the natural beauty and serenity of Pamukkale. I hopped barefooted from one white rock formation to the next, laughing like a child. It was as though I had found a hidden treasure.
arriving at the cotton castle at sunrise
Half an hour after my treasure discovery came the first round of day trippers: the Koreans. While they were very respectful of the site and taking their time to look around, I could already feel a change in atmosphere. By the time the buses of Russians took the relay, the serenity was over. People were more interested in snapping themselves looking sexy than in the site. Beers were consumed, hamburgers and ice creams were spilt and what was a place of wonder just a few hours before, turned into a what resembled a crowed outdoors public swimming pool on a hot summer weekend.
I stayed until closing time but the serenity never returned. I understood it could only be there after the site had spent a night recovering from the assault of mass tourism. When I overheard some day trippers complaining about what a tourist trap Pamukkale is, I knew I had made the right move by spending the night and being the first visitor in the morning.
Photo shooting… Quite amusing to watch, but happy that was not ALL I got to see of Pamukkale (click to enlarge)
5. Scottish Highlands, Scotland
What was I thinking, booking a day trip from Edinburgh to The Scottish Highlands?! It seemed to be the only way to visit this area during my short stay in Scotland. Boy, did I regret that decision.
landscape that calls for a hike
What you miss by making it a day trip
As we were driving by the hills that changed colours as the clouds shifted, all I wanted to do was to get out of the van and start walking amongst them. But I couldn’t, we were on a tight schedule. Damn these day trips. So what you miss is basically everything. Yes, I saw Loch Ness and yes, I had a delicious meal (haggis, what else) in one of those typical Scottish pubs but I didn’t get to spend the night in a rustic B&B or a local sheep farm. Nor was I getting my hiking boots dirty or drinking whisky with Scotsmen. By trying to see too much too fast, I missed most of what the Scottish highlands have to offer.
Loch Ness in the rain, in a hurry
6. Mekong Delta, Vietnam
Most travellers wanting to visit the Mekong Delta book a day trip from Saigon. It usually consists of a boat ride down the Mekong (while wearing conical hats) with a few stops along the river banks showcasing “real life” around the Mekong. Sometimes the tours also provide bicycles which you ride along the river following your guide and the 20 other members of your group. After lunch and perhaps a few shots of snake-scorpion liquor, visitors are returned to the big city.
Mekong Delta (click to enlarge)
What you miss by making it a day trip
Making it an overnight trip gives you the freedom to do the same thing minus the groups and the tight schedule. Because guess what? “Real life” along the Mekong doesn’t run on a tight schedule.
We took a public bus to one of the towns by the Mekong then locally booked a boat in the morning -specifically asking for the conical hats. Since no other tourist had apparently spent the night in this town, we had the boat to ourselves. In the afternoon we rented bicycles and randomly started biking. No plan, just me, my friend, the Mekong and its inhabitants. We stopped whenever we wanted, spent an hour hiding from the the rain with a cup of white coffee in a local farmer’s house and headed back when the sun started setting. We drank beer and ordered the old “we’ll have whatever they’re having”. With no tourists in town we were (sort of) part of the Mekong community for two days. That’s something you can’t say if you’re passing by on a touristy day trip.
getting lost around the Mekong (click to enlarge)
7. Berat, Albania
As Berat is listed as a UNESCO hertige site, people tend to just want to tick it off their ‘to do list’ and move on. For some, Berat is mere a day trip from Durres on the coast or from the capital Tirana.
city of a thousand windows
What you miss by making it a day trip
If you’ve been reading this blog, you already know Berat’s beauty made me weep and that it was one of my highlights in Albania. Spending the night in the city of a thousand windows allowed me to take it easy in this gorgeous town and savour its charm.
I met a traveller who had been to Berat right before me and told me she wasn’t impressed. Immediately whereafter she admitted only having spent two hours there and not have made it to the beautiful parts. Because it’s such a slow paced town, it’s best visited at a slow pace. Spending the night allows you to do just that and get in sync with the spirit of Berat.
having time to have a cup of coffee in this nice Albanian lady’s home
8. Ubud, Bali
Don’t be fooled by Ubud’s popularity for long and semi long stays, the town get a lot of day trippers. Big buses clog up the main streets and the day trippers come pouring in. The typical day trip consists of hitting the Monkey Forest, doing some shopping in the main street, having an ice cream or perhaps lunch, then heading to a surrounding temple or viewpoint before returning to the coast.
the ‘oh so popular’ Monkey Forest
What you miss by making it a day trip
You’ll miss the plethora of incredible little restaurants tucked away in surrounding streets and the calm in the rice fields you find just outside the city centre… On a day trip, you’ll only have enough time to hit the main street which is not Ubud’s best asset. For that reason most the day trippers I have spoken with, found Ubud to be too crowded, too commercial and not authentic at all. Yes, that’s because they were in the wrong area during day tripper peak moment (between 10AM and 4PM). Spend the night -or even better, several nights- and you’ll see a completely different face of the town. A much prettier, more genuine and serener one. And please, forget about the Monkey Forest.
you will not find the cool, tranquil spots when coming to Ubud for the day
9. Petra, Jordan
Either from Amman in Jordan or Eilat in Israel, day trippers drive to Petra, spend a few hours exploring the main passageways then return to their hubs or set their journeys onwards.
entering Petra
What you miss by making it a day trip
After spending an entire day exploring Petra, getting lost in majestic caves and climbing the pink rock formations we were happy to casually hang around the site and spend some time with bedouins who had their tents set up near Petra. They offered us tea, played music around a small fire while the sun was disappearing behind the horizon. They shared tales about their families who have been living in the area for centuries. Later, a dinner fit for kings was prepared for us, just down the road from Petra.
On some nights, Petra opens its doors to present a candlelit version of itself. You may not want to dish up the extra cash for the candlelight show, but sleeping in the arid desert area surrounding Petra and meeting the inhabitants is an experience you don’t want to miss out on.
meeting the people, sharing food (click to enlarge)
Have you ever regretted a day trip because it should have been an overnight trip? Where was it?
For as long as I can remember, I’ve always dreamt of going to a “real” oasis in the desert. You know, like the ones you seen in movies or cartoons: a palm tree clad village with an abundance of water and crops, smack in the middle of sand plains and dust. A place where you could sit by a well in the shadow of a tree in total silence and watch the occasional heard of sheep pass by.
That’s exactly what Garmeh is like. Somewhere in Iran’s central desert, Dashte- kavir, lies this tiny village irrigated by a small mountain spring. Garmeh has been welcoming and accommodating travellers for hundreds of years as it was one of the pitstops on the famous silk road.
the oasis of Garmeh- click to enlarge
Getting there and away was far from easy. It entailed several vehicles switches, each time leaving us on the side of a dusty road. Thanks to our non-existent Persian language skills, we only had our hands and smiles to ask for direction and communicate with people on the way. But Iranians, friendly and helpful as they are, always found a way to make us feel at ease and see us through to the next leg of our journey.
one of the most unique looking guesthouses I’ve ever stayed inpet’s at Ateshooni
Our days were filled with walks, relaxation and interesting conversations with other travelleres- half of which were young Iranians.
walking around the villagereading, discussing, laughing with travellers in the guesthouse’s living roomin the village
Our nights were spent entranced by Maziar Ale Davoud’s live music, artist and owner of the guest house. Followed by stargazing and eye-opening conversations whilst sipping tea in miniature cups and nibbling on fresh dates.
We were spoilt with incredible meals three times a day.
getting acquainted with the unique flavours of Persian cuisine
It was so idyllic we ended up booking an extra night- which would have turned into a week were our days in Iran not restricted by a tourist visa.
couldn’t resist spending another day in this little paradise
After a few days in Garmeh, I was not ready to kiss the desert sands goodbye. So we extended our trip by spending the night in another settlement in the desert; “Mesr” near Farahzad. We stayed in ‘Barandaz lodge’, another family run guesthouse with an attached farm. Though the oasis was not as picture perfect as in Garmeh, what we got here was another classic desert scene; enormous sand dunes. Perfect for dune bashing at sunset.
romance at its bestour play ground just after sunsetwarming up our feet after running around barefooted in the dunescamel burgers for dinner
The mornings were just as magical. As the sun rose, you could feel the entire farm and its surrounding rising too. Cows and sheep enjoying(?) their morning milking sessions, camels being taken out for their morning walk, the sun slowly heating up the yellow sand and tea getting to a boil on an open fire.
chasing the rebellious camel that got away from the pack
While this all was going on, there was silence. That strange kind of silence where you do hear things are going on, but their sound disappear in the greater silence. The loudest noise around are your thoughts. Eventually those too quiet down until they are completely mute.
“I think I’m in love with the desert”, I confessed to Douglas. He shot me a jealous look and we never spoke of it again.
photo by Douglas Deleu
We left Dashte-Kavir too soon, but then again, same thing goes for pretty much every destination we visited in Iran.
How do you feel about the desert? Is it an environment you like?
The post “Desert Oasis of your Dreams: Garmeh, Iran” first appeared on Travel Cake.
It’s been awfully quiet on Travel Cake these past few week. So quiet in fact, some of you have been wondering if maybe I’d left the blogging scene.
If you’re following on Instagram or on Facebook you’ll already know that’s not the case.
So what have I been doing? Why the silence?
I’ve been traveling…
…IN MONTENEGRO
My trip started in Montenegro where I spent a couple of days exploring the South of the country. I must admit, I was a bit nervous when I set off as I knew almost nothing about Montenegro and hadn’t planned anything besides my flight. I had no idea what to expect: do the locals speak a few words of English? How far is the centre from the airport and what’s the best way to get there? What are the inhabitants of this country called? Monte-negr***?
This was going to be the ultimate “winging-it” trip. Never have I been this badly prepared. You know what? As it turns out, it’s not really a problem. I smoothly found my way to the lovely town of Kotor and stayed in a charming hostel where I met some inspiring people. I learned about the history, culture, food, language and how to catch a bus, right there on the spot. I was marveling at EVERYTHING because I had no expectations what so ever.
hiking in Kotor
I spent my days walking through medieval towns and gaping at majestic mountain scapes. I reconnected with myself during a solo pick-nick on a pebbled beach and had a “YOLO- moment” when I jumped in some icy waters with no one around to tell me whether it was safe or not.
All I could think about is going back. With a car, more time and perhaps a friend. By the way, the inhabitants of Montenegro are called ‘Montenegrins’, in case you were wondering.
…IN ALBANIA
Now I know Albania is not your typical ‘top of the wish list’ kind of destination but I had always been curious about this country. Once again, I crossed the border with next to no expectations.
Albania’s overwhelmingly stunning scenery, its taste, mostly organic food and its welcoming people took me aback. It is a rugged land with an edge. Everything I would try to undertake, no matter how banal, seemed like an adventure. Cycling to town, buying a loaf of bread in the corner shop or catching a bus suddenly became challenging activities. It wasn’t the easiest travel destination for a female solo traveller but it wasn’t too hard either. I don’t think I’ve uttered exclamatory WOW’s as often as I did in Albania. It’s a country that fascinates, mystifies. Another place, I can’t wait to go back.
slanted slopes of the Albanian “Alps”
…IN KOSOVO
Due to an unexpected turn of events, I suddenly found myself in Kosovo. I spent 24 hours in the city of Prizren trying to find Kosovo’s unique characteristics. Though I didn’t have enough time to find out, I enjoyed a sunny day by the river banks and an animated night in this charming city.
snacks in Prizren
I’ve attended TBEX, a travel bloggers conference
TBEX is the most renowned conference for travel bloggers taking place in North America and Europe every year. This year, it was the city of Athens hosting the conference and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to meet fellow bloggers and visit Greece for the first time. So off to Athens I went. The sessions at the conference taught me a lot about the ‘art’ of travel blogging: the social and the technical aspects. More importantly, the conference presented a chance to connect with colleagues and people in the industry. I met a wonderful community: creative people with strong drives looking to move forward, looking to inspire.
at TBEX in Athenssunset over Athens
What’s next? A PARTNERSHIP WITH VizEat
I’m happy to announce my partnership with VizEat, a revolutionized way of sharing a meal with a local during your travels or at home.. It’s a concept which I think will interest the traveling foodies out there. The idea is simple: you book a home cooked meal with a local in the country you’re visiting. The host dines with you, which creates a cosy opportunity for you get to know one another (and get the inside scoop of the place). Of course it works the other way too: you can have travellers dine at your house while you share food, stories and friendship. I’m excited to try it out and sharing the experience with you.
A TRAVEL DREAM COME TRUE
I’m writing this post at the airport. Waiting to board the flight to a destination which has been one of my dream destination for years. I’m off to… Iran!
I’m looking forward to experiencing first hand what it’s really like there, to meet the people, to roam the bazaars and to find myself amidst the relic remainders of ancient Persian myths and culture. I’ll be blogging about my experiences when I return.
WE’RE MOVING AGAIN!
Although we loved living in Bali, it’s time to try something new. So we’ve decided to settle on the other side of the world. We’re moving to Latin America!
I’ll be sharing more details by the end of the year.
If you can’t wait that long, make sure follow Travel Cake on Facebook or join the free monthly newsletter to get the scoop.
Have you been traveling recently? Where have you been? Any travel plans coming up?
It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.
I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”
“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.
In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.
With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.
While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…
So in no Particular order
1. Oman
I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.
wadi perfect for a dip
2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London
I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.
some amazing food in the area
3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali
This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic
rice fields around Ubud
4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe
As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.
sunset over the Zambezi
5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland
The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.
somewhere along the way
6. Living the island life in Zanzibar
I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.
Zanzibari fishing village
7. Morocco
Every time I go to MoroccoI’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.
Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou
8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste
It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventurethat made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.
coastline in Dili
9. Hiking Dominica
Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.
every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island
10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel
Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.
quiet streets of the old city
11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela
Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.
Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean
12. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!
Bhaktapur in the morning light
I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.
I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.
2013 flew by so fast, I hardly saw the months pass by. In terms of travel, this year was insane! I moved from Europe to Asia and wound up in a place that “forces” me to leave the country and travel at least every two months. Not the worst deal, right?
Here is part I of my 2013 travel summary:
JANUARY… Belgium
I started 2013 in my favourite city of all times: Ghent, living and working in the city centre. It was an extremely busy month but an exciting one with lots quality time with friends and family.
frozen city centre
I conquered one of my biggest (irrational) fears: driving. It was a real challenge for me especially since the lessons took place at night, in the snow! Learning to drive has been on the top of my resolutions list for years. I finally pulled through.
FEBRUARY… Poland
I took a short trip to Warsaw with one of my best friends. Poland during the winter is no joke, but the snow embellished the city. We had a great time learning all about the Polish vodka drinking etiquette. I had my first experience as a journalist at a Polish radio station and enjoyed a fab jazz concert.
>Warsaw’s old town squareat Trojka Polskie radio
Exactly 3 years earlier, a British girl hitchhiked from London to Berlin and stopped in Ghent on her way there. We met, we hit it off, we became friends and she continued her journey to Berlin. On her way back to London, she passed through Ghent again and stayed with me for a couple of days. Ever since, she has moved to Australia and we never saw each other again. Until… we bumped into each other on Warsaw’s main square. Magical! We spent the little time we had, catching up over food and coffee!
reunited
MARCH… Oman, UAE, Bankok
I exchanged the everlasting cold temperatures of Europe for the Eastern heat. My voyage started in Oman. A country I had been drawn to for years. When I finally set foot in it, I fell in love head over heels. Oman was everything I hoped it would be and more. I stayed with an awesome woman who introduced me to Omani culture. We partied, gossiped, walked around Muscat, bonded over huge plates of traditional Omani food. During my little road trip I discovered the country’s wonderful and hospitable people, the ancient culture and the stunning nature… I loved it all.
Muscat’s cornichedigging in
United Arab Emirates
After Oman, I made a stop in the United ArabEmirates. Mainly to visit a friend who had just emigrated there. She showed me around the glam of Dubai. I was expecting it to dislike it, but Dubai surprised me. I enjoyed the fancy cocktails and the high class lunches. I loved the sense of safety and the well dressed tourists. Even though I have strong reservations about energy wasting in he UAE and the whole “bigger is better” attitude, one can’t deny it is a unique place on earth, showcasing human ingenuity. If only they could use that ingenuity in an environmental friendly and fair trade kind of way…
Burj Khalifa, tallest building in the world
Bangkok
When my time in Dubai was up, I made way to Bangkok. Again, just a brief encounter which was just long enough to allow me to get a feel of the city. I stayed in a fantastic boutique hostel that blew my mind. Refill Now! is probably the most stylish and clean hostel I’ve ever stayed in. I met some kick-ass ladies whom I explored the city with. I haven’t quite made up my mind about whether or not I like Bangkok. I guess I’ll have to go back to decide.
pool at Refill Now! hostelBangkok by night
APRIL… Myanmar
I spent three weeks in Myanmar discovering a country that only recently opened its doors to the rest of the world. It’s without a doubt a fascinating country, untouched in so many ways, but I didn’t LOVE the place. I don’t think it has anything to do with me getting a Buddha overdose, but there was just something that didn’t agree with me. Was it the fact that it was so hot you couldn’t move during the day? Or that the food wasn’t all that? Or was it the fact that I longed to stop traveling and settle down for a while? Or yet again, was I too bothered by the current regime? Either way Myanmar and I just didn’t click. I’m not sure why, I never really understood. All I know is; I won’t be going back any time soon.
beautiful Bagantransformed into a Burmese lady
MAY… Malaysia-Singapore
In may, I finally got to store away my luggage for a while. Douglas and I settled down in Kuala Lumpur. The stability only lasted a short time as we moved from KL to Georgetown, Penang. Neither cities was the kind of environment we wanted to live in, so we decided to leave mainland Malaysia behind.
view from our window in Kuala Lumpurgetting stuffed in George townPenang by night
Singapore
Later that month I revisited Singapore and just like during my first encounter 5 years ago, I loved the country/city. Yes, it’s freakishly clean, strict and (too?) organised, but it’s awesome! It’s an especially welcome break after the chaos of Kuala Lumpur. The food is amazing and I love how three very different ethnicities live together, side by side. If the rent in Singapore wasn’t so damn high, that’s where we’d be living right now.
mosque in Arab quartercolourful facades of Little IndiaChina townLaksa
JUNE…Bali
Aaah, Bali… I found it just as beautiful as when I left it behind 5 years ago. It has changed a lot, but the essence is still present. The smells of frangipani and incense, the sounds of gamelan, the bright green rice fields… We found Ubud the perfect place to spend a few month living and working remotely. So we moved and started a new life on the islands of the gods.
vanilla pods drying in the Balinese sunBalinese gateway
Israel is, agreeably, a popular travel destination that sees millions of visitor each year. But what about Palestine? As it is often forgotten by travellers or ignored because of its size, ‘danger’ or whatever the reasons may be.
I felt the need to find out…
What’s in palestine?
Very competent barbers.
Like in the olden days, they use a sharp knife to shave every single facial hair off the surface. Complementary head massage at the end.
trust the barber
Bethlehem and Nazareth; birthplace and hometown of Jezus Christ.
Pilgrims cross the border from Israel and make a quick stop to Jezus Christ’s place of birth. A grand basilica -church of Nativity- was built on the spot where said birth supposedly took place. As you can imagine, the town has a plethora of kitsch souvenirs on sale everywhere.
Hummus and falafel galore!
There is some argument between Israel and Palestine on the origin of these dishes, but let’s not nitpick about who started it or who did it better… At the end of the day, you will find top-notch hummus and falafel in Palestine. Some of the best I’ve ever eaten!
hummus and falafel
Lively market scenes…
As in every Middle Eastern country, there is shouting, haggling, laughter and various smells of spices, meat and fruit whisking by.
at the markethaving a hot mint tea just outside the market
Israeli military men and women armed to the teeth
This is a phenomenon you see in both Palestine and in Israel. It’s very unusual for most of us to see heavy ammunition resting on the hip of a 19 year-old, while they’re having a laugh and a smoke. You get used to it… eventually.
army
A concrete wall that’s 8 meter tall and segregates Israelis from Palestinians.
The extensive wall surrounds the Occupied Territories and is equipped with militarised watch towers overlooking both sides as well as snipers making sure nothing or nobody tries to cross. Palestinians use the wall space to express their dreams, wishes and the injustice they feel is done to them.
walking around the endless wallwatch tower and palestinian artexpression and protest via street artwall art
Massive refugee camps
When I heard about the ‘refugee camp’, I thought of the camps I had seen before in war zones; temporary blue tents, white bags of rice and flour, people standing in line to get some food. That’s not what the Palestinian camps are like. They are “permanent” refugee camps. Small concrete houses/rooms next to one another, housing several member of the extended family. They have schools, mosques and playgrounds. People have been living in these camps for years and probably will keep living that way for a while.
We stayed in one of the camps and were shown around by a resident; a 25 year-old man who has been living there his entire life. He told us about his struggles, his daily life and openly shared his opinions. If you have the opportunity to visit the West Bank, make sure to visit Dheisheh Refugee Camp. Even if you don’t spend the night, it might help you get some insight on the conflict’s history and the current developments.
Dheisheh Refugee Campkids at school in the camp
So what else is in Palestine?
Things you would never believe if I told you so.
So is Palestine worth a visit? Absolutely.
Contrary to popular belief, it’s fairly easy for many nationalities to enter Palestine and the locals are very pleased to receive independent visitors.
Is it dangerous? Some places are. Beyond the protests happening in some villages, life goes on. Generally speaking, if you stay away from the protests, there is not much danger for you as an outsider. Check the current political situation before you decide to cross the border!
peace…
After years of traveling, this is one of the off -the-beaten-track destinations that really touched me. It’s a place we’ve heard so much about in the news and it seems as though the “shock value is gone down and so has the media coverage. Eventually, it has been “forgotten”.
I choose not to write politics, but visiting Israel and Palestine, is a trip involving politics to some degree whether you like it or not. Both places are impressive in their own ways, couldn’t we all just get along? *Dreams…
Have you ever considered visiting Palestine? Do countries with an unstable political character scare you off as travel destinations?
After more or less getting kicked off the market place by the orthodox jewish man blowing his “you better close your shop coz it’s Shabbat”-horn, we headed to our Israeli friends’s home where we were welcomed with an extensive and delicious Shabbat dinner. We learned about Shabbat practices and rituals. If you’re heading to Israel: get yourself invited for Shabbat!
announcing shabbatShabbat dinner
2. Bicycling in Tel Aviv
It’s certainly the best way of exploring the city. Especially during Shabbat when there is significantly less traffic. The city is flat and features long bicycle lanes and cycling routes that lead you to the city’s highlights or allow you to enjoy the back alleys. Cruising the empty streets and beach boulevard while the warm sun caresses your shoulders and the wind gently re-styles your hair, I can’t think of anything more pleasant to do in a big city. Stop anywhere interesting for a snack, a drink or a power nap.
beach boulevard
3. Tel Aviv’s hip but laid back night life
Semi-spontaneous rooftop parties, clubs you may enter wearing flip flops and quirky underground bars with retro ms. Pac-man machines. That’s the kind of nightlife I enjoy! Everyone is out doing what they like, not caring about what you’re doing or how you’re dressed. I mean how many clubs allow you to enter while carrying a huge backpack?
clubbing in backpack
4. Daily doses of hummus, falafel and charcoal grilled meat
Not a single day went by without consuming one of these staples, preferably all of them. Why? Because they’re just that tasty! I’m usually not the biggest hummus or falafel fan, but I quickly realised that what I knew as hummus and falafel, were just the ugly stepsisters of the real thing. Don’t even get started on the grilled meat…
hummus and falafel
5. Wandering the streets of Jerusalem’s old city
Despite the massive amounts of tourists, there are still plenty of back streets to be discovered by the independent traveller. There is a unusual yet calm and somewhat charged atmosphere hanging around the old city. Almost as if you could feel the weight of a thick millennia old history book pressing on you. At times, once away from the crowds, you get the impression you’ve stepped back 2000+ years. I hardly visited any churches/buildings. Just strolling through the quiet streets had a much greater impact on me.
quiet streets of the old city
6. Watching the religious and pilgrims reaching spiritual bliss in Jerusalem
Muslim, Jewish or Christian, people from all three religions have a good reason to pilgrim to Jerusalem. Christians flock to TheChurch of the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus Christ was allegedly crucified and buried. The Jewish community pleads by the Wailing Wall while Muslims pray in the Dome of Rock. I found it fascinating to see people complete their pilgrimages in full ecstasy and tears. Others were sliding their written requests to god into the cracks of the holy wall. I spent several hours marvelling at the way people were so intensely and positively touched by religion.
pilgrims at their point of arrivalemotions running high at J.C’s tombsecret messages
7. Crossing into Palestine and back
It was a very bizarre and uncomfortable border crossing. One that involves strong men and women carrying heavy machine guns, endless rolls of barbed wire, an uncountable amount of security cameras, intense passport checks, high concrete walls and firmly gated passageways. It’s how I imagine a heavily guarded prison to be like. It wasn’t really a fun experience but definitely an important one; a real eye opener. I won’t get deeper into the issue, as I chose not to talk politics on this blog.
on my way to Palestine
So on a lighter note:
8. Floating in the dead sea
A big touristic cliché, but still… Such a peculiar feeling! I tried going underwater, I really couldn’t! The floating was the main draw, but I also found it quite interesting to amble on a salt beach. More fun yet, when it was time to play around in the mud!
dead sea floatsalt beach natural mud bath
9. Talking politics over beers and nargileh
When in Israel, at one point or another, politics do come up. The discussions I had with locals were so interesting and surprising, that they made my ‘top-experiences’ list. Meeting new Israeli friends made the entire trip much more fascinating… intriguing even. The beers and double apple flavoured nargileh (water pipe) added spice to the conversations. As it did to all the following conversations, for that matter. Smoking nargileh is a crucial part of the regional culture, so when in Rome…
new friends, nargileh and beer
10. Learning, Learning, Learning (and being confused)
I could cite another tourist attraction here, but one of the things that really set this trip apart from others was the amount of new things I learnt. About conflicts, about people, about religion, about history, about peace, about beliefs, about the human race… It was overwhelming and memorable. I realised that during a trip to Israel one must really open his mind and heart to get the most out of it.
What I wish I had done in Israel: stay at a kibbutz; have a drink in the underwater restaurant in Eilat; party at a secret desert psy trance gathering and explore the Galilee, land of milk and honey. I guess I’ll have to go back.
