Tag: Indonesia

Where to eat Vegan in Ubud, Bali

I’m not a vegan but the recent “clean eating craze”, has left me fascinated by the trending dietary belief systems. Gluten free, low GI, macrobiotic, vegan… I wanted to learn more. Particularly about vegan food.

Growing up with the Belgian/French food culture, I’ve always been a little sceptical towards cooking without “the good stuff”, i.e butter, eggs, milk, cheese, cream…

Like most uninformed non-vegans, I thought vegans generally don’t eat much, that their food consists of boring ol’ carrots and lettuce for breakfast, lunch and dinner. But every vegan I’ve crossed paths with has sworn to me that their meals are rich, tasty and creative. Just as much so as non-vegan dishes. I believed them yet I was still completely unfamiliar with the cuisine. This was something I strongly felt had to change. I couldn’t possible spend another year or so in the healthy food-yoga-medition-hippie town of Ubud without knowing something as ‘basic’ as what modern vegan fare entails.

smoothie bowl for breakfast

As a means to broaden my knowledge of vegan cooking, I challenged myself to eat vegan -and only vegan- for 10 days. I knew committing to an intense trial period was the only way for me to really get into vegan cuisine. I thought the challenge would be relatively easy as we live in Ubud, where we eat out daily and the vegan-friendly restaurants are plentiful. At least easier than if I were to be doing the cooking.

So this blog post could actually be titled:

Vegan restaurants in Ubud that will blow non-vegans’s minds

vegan sushi

The takeaway on being a vegan in Ubud:

Ten days of vegan eating flashed by incredibly fast. I ate refined, creative and bold dishes that certainly satisfied my hunger. I drank frothy coffee based drinks which almost beat the ‘real deal’, indulged in beautiful rich deserts, some of which definitely beat the original recipes. Not once did I miss animal products -ok, maybe once, when everybody was getting French croissants- but generally speaking, it was not hard to eat vegan in Ubud. The whole journey into discovery was so exciting, I was looking forward to the next meal every single day.

Did I physically feel different? Not really, though I felt generally lighter. Now that the trial is over, I’m going on a serious diet. A financial diet, that is. All the restaurants I visited are of great quality and worth their prices but dining there does eat away at your budget. So for the next few days; local nasi goreng (fried rice) every day!

To complete this post, here are the restaurants where I ate – and licked my fingers- during my vegan discovery week. Some of the best vegan spots in Ubud.

1. SAGE

Definitely mine and many of Ubud healthy eating expats’s favourite. Even for meat lovers, this place is a must try. It makes you instantly forget there is such thing as animal products. This is undoubtedly the place to go, for a dabble in vegan cuisine.

vegan cuisine at Sage

Address: Jl. Nyuh Bulan 1, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

2. BELOVED EARTH CAFÉ

A ‘sustainable eco restaurant respecting the earth and striving for harmony’. You’ll find Beloved Earth Café in the lovely gardens of ‘Swasti Eco lodge’. There’s also a pool which is open to restaurant guests.

offering a wide variety of vegan and RAW dishes and deserts

colourful dining area

set in a beautiful eco garden

Address: Jalan Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

3. ALCHEMY

Vegan café, juice bar, health store, holistic clinic, organic farm… Alchemy is more than just a vegan restaurant, it’s almost a small community centre, priding itself in honouring mother nature and its inhabitants. Sound to ‘floaty’ for you? Forget about the latter and just remember this then: they have an excellent breakfast bar you should try.

from the breakfast bar

sustainable delivery boxes

Address: Jl. Penestanan Klod No.75, Ubud

4. YELLOW FLOWER CAFE

The big draw about this eatery is the setting. It feels as though you’ve landed in a Roald Dahl story. Getting there, is just as dreamy, you’ll have to climb a gorgeous set of stairs into Penestanan.

steps into Penestanan

straight out of a children’s book (source)

Address: Sayan, Ubud (Climb the Penestanan steps in Ubud, turn right at the noticeboard, then follow the path)

5. CLEAR

“Eat the food you wish to be”, that’s Clear’s motto. Though I’m having a hard time conceptualise that saying, I’ve enjoyed eating their fresh, organic meals long before this little experiment started. Their juices and elixirs are sublime and worth a try too.

Yumm! (source)

Address: Jalan Campuhan, Ubud

6. KAFÉ and GARDEN KAFÉ

“A culinary innovation in healthy food”. You’ll find little kafé on the grounds of the Yoga Barn, an excellent spot to indulge in vegan renourishment after a sweaty yoga class. Those not into yoga, might feel more at home in the other Kafé which is located in one of the main streets of Ubud.

Macrobiotic bowl of steamed veggies

Address:

Kafé: Jalan Hanoman , Central Ubud

Garden kafé: Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud

7. DAYU’S

Healthy slow food. Now here’s a chilled out place where the chef really gets creative with fresh local produce. Dine here only when you have nowhere urgent to be though.

vegan burrito

porridge with coconut milk

Address: Jalan Sugriwa, Ubud

8. DOWN TO EARTH (‘Earth Café and market’)

Restaurant, health store and (!!) vegan cinema. I bet you haven’t heard of vegan cinemas very often. Check it out!

Middle Eastern influenced dishes

restaurant annex health store

Address: Jalan Goutama selatan, Ubud

9. KISMET

Long before this vegan experiment, Kismet had already conquered a spot in my top 3 favourite restaurants in Ubud. It’s not just the food, it’s the interior, the über cool atmosphere and the beautiful people you’ll find there. My top recommandation is the “asian bowl with noodles and vegan satay”. Enjoy!

Kismet chill out area

asian bowl with vegan satay accompanied by a glass of jasmine kombucha.

hello sandwich and desert counter, nomnomnom

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

10. FRESH (Taksu restaurant)

You’d never suspect you’re seated in the middle of jam packed Ubud. Taksu is a haven of tranquility serving excellent food. You’ll find the RAW and vegan menu in their terrace restaurant “Fresh”, whereas the garden café offers an attractive set of non-vegan meals.

the tranquil garden café

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

11. SOMA

“High vibes, organic delights”. Soma’s tagline summons it up perfectly.

coconut hang out at Soma

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

12. THE SEEDS OF LIFE

WOW! Not only vegan, but also RAW. This place was a true eye opener during my vegan trial period. I was so pleasently surprised by the dishes on the menu, I considered signing up for the Raw chef training they offer. “If this is what I’ll be able to cook, tell me where to sign up!” Unfortunately the “raw chef training” is too much above my budget so I’ll have to satisfy myself with dining in SOL.

dragon fruit chia pudding

the new seeds of life interior

papaya pancakes

I swear I did not JUST eat deserts during my vegan trial period

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

13. BALI BUNDA (Bali Buda)

“Real food by real people”. Restaurant and health store near the yoga studio ‘Radiantly Alive’. Another great place for a satisfying vegan meal possibly in company with your non-vegan friends.

gado gado, an indonesian classic. Mixed veggies, rice and tofu with a spicy peanut sauce.

Address: Jalan Jembawan, Ubud

14. LIVING FOODLAB

You’ll find this place on the grounds of HUBUD, ubud’s first co-working space. With a nice view over rice fields it’ s a great spot to relax while you wait for your food to arrive.

Address: Monkey Forest No.88X, Ubud

There are quite a few more vegan friendly restaurants in Ubud but 10 days was too little time to try them all. Let’s say I’m keeping those for a possible round 2 of vegan eating in the near future.

Have you tried vegan cuisine? Did you like it?

*Special thanks to Sam and Forest for helping me with this post! *

The post “where to eat vegan in Ubud” first appeared on Travel Cake.

June 9, 2016
An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences

It’s been quiet on Travel Cake these past few months. Some of you have been asking me where I’ve been and what I’ve been up to. Well, I can tell you this much: I haven’t been slacking!

I’ve moved from Ecuador to Belgium where I have been slaving away at a 9 to 5 desk job. Being back in my hometown has been wonderful in terms of reconnecting with friends, family and the city. You may have read the mini luxury guide to Ghent I wrote for travel blog “Hippie in Heels”. You may also have read what I had to say about travel photography in an article for “Voyager for life“.

saying my goodbyes to Ecuador

But most importantly, I’ve been preparing for the trip of a lifetime. A new adventure, greater than any I’ve ever been on before.

Destination?

Motherhood.

That’s right,I said motherhood.

The journey began 10 months ago in Iran and continued in Ecuador and Colombia. It took a turn in the US and passed by the Netherlands. It then continued to Belgium where our daughter was born. Our ‘Mini Travel Cake’ is a sweet and funny baby with a traveller’s spirit. How could it be any different, she is only a month old and has already been to 6 countries!

Does this mean Travel Cake is turning into a mommy blog?

No. Plain and simple. It’s just not my cup of tea. However, I’ll probably publish an article related to kids and travel every once in a while. But in general I plan on publishing the same kind of content as I have so far.

As my pregnancy came to an end, I was stuck indoors with a swollen face hiding from the summer heat. Knowing that my life will never be exactly the same again, I thought about my passed travels. Motherhood is probably the most intense and life changing adventure of them all and I’m THRILLED not to have rushed into it. Thrilled to have taken time to see and experience as much of the world as possible while being relatively carefree. That’s why, as a tribute to carefree travelling, I will be posting a countdown of my 100 most memorable, essential travel experiences.

Here goes part 1, in no particular order:

100. Driving miles and miles on the rooftops of Nepali busses.

A drink, music blasting from your headphones and wind running through your hair… the best seats are in between the luggage on the roof of the bus!

99. 1001 nights in Morocco

Morocco’s riads are so romantic, so sophisticated and worth the occational splurge. I tried looking the part sippin’ on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco’s fancy riads. Click on the title to read about my weekend in Fez, Morocco.

98. Floating through life on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala

Waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways, sigh…

97. Going nuts during Thingyan, Myanmar’s water festival

Water party in a pop-up day club

This is a common street scene in Yangon during the water festival. Click on the title to read about our experiences during Thingyan.

96. Trekking in the Himalayas

Our first and very ill prepared trek at 4300m altitude. Click on the title to read a post related to trekking.

95. Rum cocktails in Castro’s Cuba

Cuba during Castro’s reign was such a bizarre yet unique and enchanting place. At least for visitors. Things may have changed but I’m sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!

94. Hiking in Valbona, Albania

After a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption. Click on the title to read about my hike in the Albanian Alps.

93. Spending the night in the garden of Eden in the Democratic Republic of Congo

Watching the sun set after a long walk in what seemed like the garden of Eden. DRC has fantastic nature, I wish I could say the same for the political situation.

92. Seeing Tarsiers in the wild

A childhood dream came true when we spotted these cuties in the jungle of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Click on the title to read more about our time in Sulawesi.

91. Fishing, sunbathing and drinking on a catamaran in Los Roques, Venezuela

My first time on a caribbean beach, I was overwhelmed by the high tropical factor

90. Traveling by train in Russia

I got to know my cabin mates by communicating with signs on a 40 hour train ride to the Russian Arctic

89. Hiking the Cocora valley in Colombia

Another long time travel dream come true! Click on the title to read about our hike in the Cocora Valley.

88. Discovering the architectural jewels of Iran

Feeling tiny amongst Iranian architectural masterpieces

87. Camping on a beach in Oman and finding nestling turtles

Camping on a deserted beach in southern Oman.

We stumbled upon some sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Click on the title to read about my road trip to Oman.

86. Learning to scuba dive

Wreck diving in the Philippines, a new world opening up…

My first open water dive in Zanzibar, one of many more to come.

85. Trying to understand the Israeli-Palestinan conflict

The more I talked to local people on both sides of the conflict, the more confused I was on the issues. No matter how much I hung out in the old streets of Jerusalem. Read more about my trip to Israel.

Crossing the horrendous border to Palestine. Click on the title to read more about my findings in Palestine.

84. Motorcycling through India

An epic drive from South to North India on a 30 year old Royal Enfield. Click on the titel to read about out motorcycle trip through India.

83. Unexpectedly ending up in Paris and attending a crazy party in “la Machine du Moulin Rouge”

The evening took an unexpected turn and I found myself in Paris. Wearing pink fur and a white wig…

82. Travelling solo

I find traveling solo extremely liberating and enriching. Everybody should try it at least once in their life! Click on the title to read why I travel solo even when I’m in a relationship.

81. Trying to catch a glimpse of Nessie in Loch Ness in the Scottish highlands

Nessie not found.

So much for part 1 of my favourite travel experiences. Continue reading part 2, part 3, part4, part 5 and part 6!

Which of these experiences would you want to read more about?

The post “An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 24, 2015
Journey to the Togean islands, Indonesia

I’m staring out the bus window with a intense frown covering my face. The lush Andes landscape rolling by, leaves me almost indifferent. I realise what beauty surrounds me, but I just can’t enjoy it. The combination of high altitude and winy mountain roads leading us up and down the hills has left me with the worst feeling of nausea I have ever experienced. I try to remember the last time I felt this way as a reminder that, just like last time, the nausea will eventually go away…

I dig deep into my memory and then remember… Last time I felt this horrible was over one year ago on the never ending journey to the Togean Islands in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A 16 hour drive swinging through hairpin turns with a sleepy driver that had partied all night, followed by a sleepless night in a cockroach infested hotel with an active karaoke bar right next door to it. The jaunt continued the next morning with a 4 hour boat ride full of seasick people vomiting in plastic bags only to be finished with one more boat ride to our final destination: Kadidiri paradise. And paradise, it was.

I close my eyes in an attempt to day dream away from the motion sickness in the Ecuadorian bus. My thoughts slowly sink to the unspoilt Togean beaches.

sailing past inhabited islands

arriving at our resort

Welcome to paradise…

There was not much to do on these islands. No internet nor phone reception… A total digital detox and relaxation in it’s most original form. Our days were spent snorkelling in the crystal clear waters right outside our doorstep…

Saving the coral from the “evil” crown-of-thorns starfish…

Daydreaming in a hammock…

Catching up on some reading…

Scuba diving to some incredible locations like Una Una, an active underwater Volcano…

source

Floating in a jelly fish lake (of course, they don’t sting)…

Drinking cool (overpriced) beer with friends while watching the sun set into the ocean…

The journey to the Togeans was a tough one but most definitely worth it. If you decide to spend a few days or weeks on the Togean islands, I recommend you bring your favourite snacks and maybe a bottle of booze to create your own cocktails on the beach. Kadidiri Paradise has only one tiny shop, selling some Pringles and a few other nibbles. You’ll get bored of them after a few days, I’m sure. Though the price of your room includes three hearty meals a day, you might get hungry in between meals, that’s when the snacks come in handy.

Don’t forget to pack a good amount of entertainment: frisbee, beach ball, books, notebooks, chess set… Whatever takes your fancy.

Have you ever done a digital detox? Would you need one?

The post “Journey to the Togean island, Indonesia” first appeared on Travel Cake.

March 5, 2015
2014 Travel Summary

I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.

I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…

JANUARY…

SULAWESI- INDONESIA

I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.

Torajan funeral

tarsier

MALAYSIA

As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.

proud devotee

for the sake of devotion

the end of the pilgrimage

FEBRUARY…

BALI

As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…

last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)

MARCH…

HONG KONG

A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!

visiting Chinese temples

order after order of new flavours

MACAU

During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.

wide sunny boulevards

gamble paradise

APRIL…

BELGIUM

Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.

deliciously gross Belgian fare

a long time since I last saw spring

MAY…

ITALY

By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.

the red city seen from above

incredible food and wine in Bologna

JULY-AUGUST…

DRC

Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!

It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.

Congo’s stunning nature

safety first

kids in the village

crossing the Congo-Nile

UGANDA

On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.

buying goat brochettes from the bus window

Lake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele

RWANDA

Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.

sunset in Gisenyi

SEPTEMBER…

FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS

To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.

catching up in front of an old country house

clog boots

old fashioned fun

OCTOBER…

MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO

Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.

As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.

kids in Beirat, Albania

GREECE

I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.

Athens by night

wine tasting in the country side

NOVEMBER…

IRAN

Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!

Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.

inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahan

farmer in Kashan

out of this world rooftops

DECEMBER…

ECUADOR

The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.

What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…

on the look out for a new life in Ecuador

How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?

The post ‘2014 Travel Summary‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

January 5, 2015
Where to go in Bali – 10 Insider Tips

When I was living in Bali, my mailbox was flooded with e-mails from friends and acquaintances planning a trip to the island of gods, asking me which spots to hit. I probably should have written a standard answer to copy paste in every reply but just thinking about these places got me so excited, I didn’t mind carefully hand-picking the places that would suit my correspondents. Today, the same question continues to pop up regularly in my inbox and I’ve noticed I tend to recommend the same places on a loop. Anyone can open up a guide book or browse the internet for ‘things to do in Bali’, but these are the picks I recommend acquaintances, friends and readers.

Scooter trip Tirta Gangga to Amed & Bathing in Tirta Gangga’s holy water

Eastern Bali is an excellent area to drive around by scooter. The little roads lead you through picturesque villages and breathtaking landscapes. Somewhere in the midst of it all lies the ‘Tirta Gangga Water Palace’. Though the palace is alluring, it’s the soak in holy water that adds “pazzaz” to the scene. Spend the night in one of the charming guest houses in Tirta Gangga and visit the palace very early in the morning, before the day trippers arrive. There is something transcendental about taking a dip in a pool of sacred water surrounded by nothing else but sounds of nature awakening. From there drive to Amed and take in the natural beauty as well as scenes of rural Bali.

Tirta Gangga Water Palace

holy water pool

a divine feeling

view from my guesthouse

a ceremony on the way to Amed

Amed’s coast

Learn to dive in Tulamben

If you’re a seasoned diver, you might not love any of the dive spots in Bali. It’s just not the most impressive place to scuba. There are however, some beautiful submarine sites worth exploring.

Tulamben lends itself superbly as a place to get scuba certified. The fish and coral are both bountiful and colourful, there is excellent visibility and the water is warm. Right by the shore, at only a few meters depth lies a shipwreck in outstanding condition. It’s one of the few places where you have the opportunity to ship wreck dive as a beginner. Most of the dive spots are near the shore, so there’s no need to jump off a boat; you can just shuffle your way to the sea and gradually ease into deeper waters. Ideal for a nervous beginner. Not into diving? You can access some parts of the wreck by snorkelling too!

USAT Liberty Wreck (photo credits)

Exploring Jatiluwih rice terraces on foot

The rice terraces of Jatiluwih reflect the beauty of the Balinese agriculture. I drove to the UNESCO protected fields using the back roads and found myself at a non-official entrance. The only other people there were the occasional farmers working the land. Get got off the scooter/car and walk through the paddies of endless green. The further you walk, the less people and the better the experience.

cooking a batch of basmati rice, I never realising what beauty it came from

photo’s don’t even begin do it justice

Coffee, cloves and strawberries in Munduk

Anyone referring to Bali as an over-touristed hellhole, clearly hasn’t been to the Northern part of the island. In Munduk the air is cool and the soil is fertile. Perfect circumstances to cultivate coffee, strawberries and cloves. Munduk may be different from typical Balinese towns, nonetheless it’s not very memorable. It’s where the dutch held mountain retreats during colonial times to escape the Indonesian heat. That is still the main reason to head up there; a breath of fresh air, the hilly scenery, the waterfalls, the coffee plantations and eating strawberry covered everything -even pizza.

all what is good grows in Munduk

Gitgit water fall in Munduk

A Deep soul massage in Ubud

Ubud is a great hub to explore the verdant centre of the island. Base yourself here and enjoy all it has to offer: culture, art, spas, every type of yoga you can imagine, meditation, healing, delightful guest houses, organic restaurants catering to every allergy/food trend… Be warned, the town is extremely touristed. However it’s not too hard to get away from the over-commercialised areas and activities. As long as you know to expect a tiny but busy 10-street city, you won’t mind the crowed centre of Ubud too much. Let your hair down, join a yoga class, get a massage and a flower bath, eat an organic meal accompanied by a health shake and have a chat with locals. All the while wearing loose flowy pants and flipflop. Groovy?

spirituality everywhere you turn

yoga barn; the yoga supermarket

organic, locally produced, healthy food

Sunset in Pantai Suluban

Narrow steps in between cliffs bring you down to this tiny beach which disappears with high tide. The setting between the tall escarpment, the soft sand between your toes and unbelievably talented surfers riding impressive waves in the backdrop; It all comes together magnificently when the sun starts to sink in the sea. Strangely enough I didn’t carry my camera with me when I caught my favourite sunset in Bali! Perhaps that’s what made it even more enjoyable?

Suluban beach near Uluwatu (source)

Snorkelling with manta rays on Lembogan island

Nusa Lembongan is a small, tranquil island where you can truly spoil yourself. Be it with stylish yet affordable accommodation or with cliff hung spa’s overlooking the turquoise sea. Still, the best treat Lembongan has to offer is that of underwater splendour. Experienced divers may be able to encounter mola mola (giant moon fish) given the right season. But not all is reserved for divers. In fact all you need is a mask, a snorkel and a pair of fins. Try “drift snorkelling” where currents do the heavy paddling for you and carry you crossed the corals. Marvel at what looks like the worlds biggest aquarium drifting by and with you. The absolute highlight is snorkelling with 2 meter wide manta rays: so exhilarating!

R&R on Nusa Lembongan

not even the honeymoon suite

snorkelling with mantas. photo by Shawn Heinrichs

Beach Bumming on the Gili islands

Although technically not Bali but Lombok, the Gili islands are often visited as part of a trip to Bali. And they should. It’s THE place to be for the classic exotic beach vacation. No motorised vehicles, rustic shacks serving food and drinks, parties, beaches and all that goes with it. There are three Gili islands with very different personalities to chose from. Check out my Gili post to find out which one is right for you.

sandy Gili beach

Sunrise atop or at the foot of Mount Batur

Scaling Mt Batur to see the sun come up is one of the top attractions in Bali. Fit hikers can reach the summit (1717m) in a short two hour climb and can enjoy the sunrise from the top of an active volcano. However, I found that hanging around the slopes of Mt. Batur is just as pleasant. You can watch the sunrise from the foot of the volcano by the crater lake, have breakfast on its hillsides and bathe in the surrounding hot springs. Either way the Kintamani region promises a spectacular scenery.

watching sunrise over Batur’s craterlake with friends, leaving the hiking boots at home

volcanic hot springs near Mt.Batur

For the insane: ascending Mount Agung

As I mentioned above, the most popular volcano sunrise trek is on Mt. Batur. Let me just say this, from the top of Mt. Agung, Batur looks like a joke. Mt. Agung (3031 m) is the holiest place in Bali and although the Balinese tolerate foreigners ascending it, they themselves will not do so. It’s just that sacred. The climb starts around midnight and takes about 7 hours. From the top you have views over the entire island and you can even spot Lombok’s coastline and volcanoes. It’s a strenuous climb, to say the least and an even more taxing, somewhat dangerous descent. Pray for clear skies. If you’re looking for a physical challenge, this is it. I’ll admit it, I cried of desperation during this hike but I don’t regret doing it. Would I do it again? Nope!

For more “insane” activities in Bali, read my article “5 quirky things to do in Bali“.

thinking I’m almost at the top, I notice the pointy shadow telling me there’s still a long way to go

on top of Bali

Bali is packed with remarkable places, secret beaches, stunning temples, lush green valleys… So wherever you decide to go, there is no wrong answer. Except Kuta. Please, stay away from Kuta. It’s crowded, polluted, full of drunk teenagers, pimps and dealers. Mc Donalds, O’Neil and other chain companies rule the town. It’s the only part of Bali I really disliked.

One last tip: as you know by now, Bali is full of tourists, at times too full. I recommend you to visit the more popular sites as early in the morning as you possibly can. This is the only way to avoid the crowds and not return home pissed that you’ve seen too many -insert Western nationality. True, waking up at the crack of dawn is no pick-nick but if it means having ancient sites to yourself and the best lighting for photos, it’s 100% worth it! Don’t worry, there is always a quaint café nearby where you can take a nap later during the day.

unless this is your idea of a dream beach, stay away from Kuta

Which part of Bali have you enjoyed visiting or would you like to visit?

The post “Where to go in Bali – 10 insider tips” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 18, 2014
12 Favourite Destinations

It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.

I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”

“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.

In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.

With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.

While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…

So in no Particular order

1. Oman

I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.

wadi perfect for a dip

2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London

I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.

some amazing food in the area

3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali

This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic

rice fields around Ubud

4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe

As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.

sunset over the Zambezi

5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland

The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.

somewhere along the way

6. Living the island life in Zanzibar

I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.

Zanzibari fishing village

7. Morocco

Every time I go to Morocco I’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.

Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou

8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste

It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventure that made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.

coastline in Dili

9. Hiking Dominica

Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.

every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island

10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel

Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.

quiet streets of the old city

11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela

Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.

Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean

12. Bhaktapur, Nepal

Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!

Bhaktapur in the morning light

I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.

I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.

What are your 5 favourite destinations?

The post “12 Favourite Destinations” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 2, 2014
5 Quirky Things to do in Bali

There is a great misconception that Bali is just another tourist mecca full of beautiful clichés. Granted, there is a great deal of mass tourism, but there is so much more to it than that. Finding authenticity is a walk in the park and going off the beaten track is just as easy. Quirks are plentiful and one needn’t look far to find some. Besides the cultural oddities, there are tonnes of fun off-beat activities you can participate in. These are my favourite quirky things to do in Bali.

1. Mud wrestling under a full moon at the Green school

The greenest school on earth lies somewhere between rice fields and Balinese villages. Built entirely out of bamboo, the Green School boasts an endangered bird rehabilitation program, an organic vegetable garden grown by its students, an enormous crystal radiating positive energy on the playground, a natural swimming pool and… a mud pit. Students, teachers and visitors regularly engage in playful mud wrestling tournaments. Several times a year, a “Mepantigan full moon performance” is held on the school grounds. Mepantigan is a traditional act combining Balinese martial art, fire dance, drama and music. Those who don’t mind getting their clothes dirty, can join the mud fun after the performance.

playing in the mud. Mind the school’s horse in the background. Photo by Ana Baranova

Even if you’re not lucky enough to be in town during the mud fight, I recommend visiting the Green School anyway. A sustainable international school running on solar energy with “a vision of a natural, holistic, student-centered learning environment that empowers and inspires its students to be creative, innovative, green leaders.” A school so incredibly cool, you’d want to turn into a kid just to attend. Visit their website to find out more or to book a tour.

we could all learn something at the green school

2. Party hard… and sober on a Sunday morning

Every Sunday, Ubud’s most popular yoga spot organises a smashing Sunday Dance. Starting at 11AM, expats, locals and visitors come together to party like there is no tomorrow. People let go and let lose, moving their bodies to the music in which ever way they feel like, expressing themselves through movement. There is screaming, crying, laughter, sweaty hugs, glitter… Anything goes. There is only one rule: no talking. As the dance progresses, the music gets more intense and the dancers feed on each other’s energies. Unbelievably powerful! I’ve added this to the list of quirky things because, if you only ever danced in amongst a crowd at a club or at a party and preferably in slightly intoxicated condition, your first minutes there can feel quite awkward and bizarre. As soon as you realise nobody is there to observe or judge, you loose your inhibitions naturally. Put on a smile, dance and spend the rest of your day on cloud nine.

good vibes on Sunday morning

3. Laugh your head off during a laughing yoga session

Laughter strengthens your immune system, boosts your energy, diminishes pain and protects you from the damaging effects of stress. This is the mantra that inspires the biweekly laughing yoga gatherings in Ambar Ashram. Imagine a grass field covered with 100 Balinese on a yoga mat, laughing themselves silly. Doesn’t that sound like the place to be?! Even though it’s a local activity and the spoken language is Indonesian, foreigners are more than welcome… Laughter knows no language. There’s more to the class than laughter, but I don’t want to reveal any spoilers. Classes are free and last an hour. Bring a yoga mat if you have one and leave with a relaxed mind and body!

After laughing yoga with Peter

laughing it out

4. Sip on fancy ‘cat poop coffee’

I haven’t gone mad, I consciously wrote “cat poop coffee”. That’s right, Kopi Luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world, is actually “civet cat poop coffee”. Some explanation… As night falls, wild civets roam around the “Luwak “coffee plantations to feed on the plants’ best coffee beans. The civets having partially digested the beans, excrement them around the plantation. The farmers then search for and pick up the stools. Once dry, the remaining beans are picked out by hand, then peeled and roasted. The result: world’s most exclusive coffee. “Is it any good?”, you want know… Well I’ve heard mixed reviews: some find it exquisite, others find it too bland. It’s not a coffee that will have you bouncing off the walls, but I enjoyed its mildness. It definitely doesn’t taste as gross as the title could have you thinking, but I’m not sure it’s worth the €6/100gr to me.

coffee eating civet, sadly encaged as a show piece for tourists

dried civet feces

kopi luwak- cat poop coffee

5. For women only: enjoy a steam sauna… for your most intimate organ

This one actually originates from a traditional Javanese beauty and bridal ritual. I’ll keep the story short. Just before marriage or after giving birth, Javanese women undergo a cleansing ritual. Only wearing a sarong, the women are seated on a chair with a hole. In that hole lies a clay plot with heated charcoal and herbs creating rising fog which “cleans” the women’s private parts. This procedure called “ratus”, is also practiced in Bali and is available in local spa’s. You don’t need to be a bride to enjoy the Javanese beauty secret. Now every adventurous woman can give it a go. It takes about 45minutes and in some modern spa’s you will get a shoulder massage while you get “steamed”. My ratus experience was a very pleasant one. After feelings of awkwardness sitting half-naked on a smoking chair, came relaxation and bliss. I felt rejuvenated and fresh. To be repeated! I underwent the treatment at Midas Spa in Ubud.

get the picture?

These are just a few of the unusual things to do in Bali. Plenty more to discover throughout the island and the entire country!

Which one of these quirks would you attempt?

The post “5 Quirky Things to do in Bali first appeared” on Travel Cake.

April 2, 2014
What’s in Sulawesi?

Maybe I should start by answering the question “where is Sulawesi”. Among the 6000 inhabited islands of Indonesia, lies Sulawesi, one of the country’s largest. Announcing we were off to explore Sulawesi, my friends and I all got the same puzzled reaction: “Oh, how lovely… What’s in Sulawesi?” To be honest, I wasn’t quite sure when we left. I had read a couple of thing here and there, but it was a big question mark to me as well.

So here’s is what I found on the island of Sulawesi

1. Jaw dropping landscapes

Mist rolling over hills and valleys, tiny motorways crossing vast plains of rice fields, rugged cliffs, jungles, volcanoes, beaches… Diverse landscapes lending themselves perfectly for hikes and motorbike rides.

around the hills

black sand beach

driving a motorbike

2. Tana Toraja- remarkable culture and architecture

Land of the Torajan people. Emerge yourself in the fascinating culture of the Toraja in the southern half of the island. Torajans welcome guests to discover their unique culture and beliefs. I know the word “unique” is often used too loosely to describe pretty much anything, but if there was ever a correct description for this culture, unique would be the one! I found their “death-centric way of life” particularly interesting.

traditional Torajan jewellery

at a Torajan funeral

architecture

3. Gorgeous deserted islands

The Togean islands for example… If you keep in mind the effort to get there- we drove and sailed for 2 days, non-stops- it will not come as a shock that there is no phone or internet connection on the tiny islands. Great as a digital detox or just a relaxing few days of beach, snorkel, eat, sleep, repeat.

mangrove beach in Bunaken

beach crabs everywhere

romance returns when technology disappears…

4. A dark side

As mentioned above, death is everywhere around you in Southern Sulawesi. Not in creepy, dangerous way, but as a natural, celebrated part of life. Every now and then you stumble upon a collection of century old bones and coffins. Bodies are buried in cliffs and caves, skeletons are given cigarettes and money. Sometimes I imagined myself on the set of a gothic music video.

surprised by these century old skulls

cigarettes for the dead

5. Top notch underwater scenery

Prepare to redefine your perception of colour… Some of the brightest, most colourful coral and fish can be found in Sulawesi. Despite the years of dynamite fishing in the area, there is still a considerable amount of intact coral. The fishes’ patterns, textures and colour schemes inspire a mental creation of a new wardrobe. Such a pity I’m not a designer!

For the experienced who have had their share of coral gazing and would like to see a different kind of marine habitat, the Lembeh straight offers some world class muck diving opportunities. Snorkel in Bunaken, muck dive in Lembeh and dive around the Togean islands.

unfortunately I don’t own a waterproof camera (yet?), so this is the best I can show you. Togean islands

6. Tarsiers

If you ask me, they are the cutest primates on this planet. Sulawesi houses tarsiers in two of their national parks. We tracked them down with a guide at the crack of dawn in Tangkoko National Park. My nine year old self gave me a big “high five” for seeing them in real life… Childhood dreams come true!

tarsier back in his sleeping tree after a night of hunting

aren’t they cute?

7. A new cuisine to try out

The cuisine in Sulawesi has its own personality. Sure, you can find your typical “mie goreng” or “nasi campur”, but an abundance of traditional dishes are waiting to be sampled. Vegetarians/vegans beware: Sulawesi dishes are heavy in meats or fish, so you’ll have a hard time finding something other than rice to eat- the rice is exquisite though. I tried “pa’piong”, a Torajan speciality: meat (or fish) with vegetables and traditional black spice, slow cooked in a bamboo tube over an open fire. Incredibly strong and distinct flavours!

exciting new spices to try…

doesn’t look very appetising but worth a try: pa’piong with black rice

8. Jellyfish lake

On the Togean islands you will find a lake full of stingless colourful jellyfish. You can swim with them, observe them while snorkelling. There are supposedly only three lakes in the world where this is possible! The jellyfish have no natural predators in those waters therefore they’ve lost their traditional defence mechanism, which makes them harmless to you, swimmer. It’s a magnificent experience. I quote my dear husband: “it’s like swimming in a lake full of boobs”.

foto by Nao Nishimiya

9. A Buffalo and Pig market

Admittedly, this is a rather strange attraction, but definitely worth a visit. I was so impressed I could hardly think. The noises, the smells, the fact that everyone else seemed so much at ease while I was fearing for my life (not really)… I find it enriching to challenge my views of what is “acceptable behaviour”, in this case behaviour towards cattle. Again, maybe not a good idea for vegetarians/vegans…

walking amongst the buffalos

farmer selling his pigs

10. Beautiful national parks, home to endangered species: crested black macaque

There are many national parks with impressive fauna and flora. One of the parks is home to the critically endangered crested black macaque. I must say, I had no idea how bad the situation was. These apes are literally on the verge of extinction, even more so than tigers, orang utans or rhinos!

curly roots

shameless macaque photograph

climbing a 2000 year old tree

11. Fantastic coffee

The plantations lie in the Torajan highlands and produce a coffee bean that is good enough to be internationally distributed as ‘gourmet coffee’. The premium beans can hardly be found in the rest of the country, they are reserved for export, but we found a restaurant that was serving premium Torajan coffee (Cafe Aras in Rantepao). WOW! If you can’t make it to Sulawesi, why not try a cup of their coffee in your country?

local coffee

Things to keep in mind

Sulawesi is not a cheap destination. Transportation is either extremely uncomfortable or pricey. Prices for meals are slightly higher than in Java or in Bali. If you are planning on diving, which is recommended, don’t forget to include that in your budget as well. Most dives are priced at 30US$. Accommodation on the smaller islands start at 20US$ per person, not per room (!) and include three meals.

To travel in Sulawesi means to wait around a lot. Slow travel is key if you want to see the island. The attractions are scattered around, which creates “dead days” between two attractions; days of travel or waiting for a connection. Take your time or travel by plane. There are 6 airports on the islands: Makassar (South) and Manado (North) being the biggest ones.

Had I known what I know now, I would have brought to the islands: a frisbee or a ball, a bottle of quality rum to make cocktails which are not served in Togean and extremely expensive in Bunaken. I would have brought more reading material– one novel wasn’t enough and some good snacks from the mainland– I was often hungry before dinner was served and got tired of eating the cookies from the only shop on the island.

Have you heard of Sulawesi as a tourist destination? Would you consider going?

The post “What’s in Sulawesi” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 24, 2014