Tag: food

Fez, Morocco: a Perfect Quick Getaway

What is the perfect getaway anyway? For me, it’s spending a couple of days in a new environment. Leaving the old and familiar to take in new and exciting smells, tastes, sights and sounds. It’s getting a sensory overload, bringing you a renewed ‘joie de vivre’. It’s returning home relaxed, energized and inspired. I found it all during my December getaway to Fez, Morocco. Four days in Fez was all I needed to overcome the winter gloom creeping over my mood and to get the necessary strength to tackle the cold days awaiting in Europe.

There is nothing sunshine, Moroccan cuisine, a good dose of exotic culture and quality time with a loved one can’t fix!

Here’s how I experienced the perfect getaway in Fez.

Dump the city map

There is only one way to experience the old medina of Fez and that’s by getting lost in it. Just wander and enjoy not knowing where you’re going. Every corner feels like an important discovery especially since there are hardly any tourists during the winter.

narrow streets

markets

beautiful gateways

Shop or window shop

Fez has some gorgeous locally produced goods. High quality leather goods, silver jewellery, nougat, lamps, precious stones, argan oil from the South… The shop keepers are ferocious and cunning, so bring up your most assertive alter ego and operate your best bargaining skills.

buying nougat

beautiful lamps

selfie while drooling over lamps

Spend the night in a riad

The traditional Moroccan house (riad) really transports you to another world with its exotic grandeur. Riads are characterized by their (usually well decorated) inner garden/courtyard. When used as guest houses, you can be sure they are furnished in the most refined possible way, using local handicrafts. It’s the place to be for a relaxing “1001 nights” experience. Although many riads are luxurious and expensive, plenty of them offer budget/mid-range options.

budget riad room

breakfast in the December sunshine

If you can’t afford to stay in a riad…

Have drinks in a fancy Riad

If you can’t afford to spend the night, splurge for a drink! Dress up, get a drink and make the night count. Not something you do in everyday life.

fancy riad

inner court with pool

martini at the fancy riad

expensive but worth it

Taste “Pastilla”

Pronounced Bastila, the sweet and savoury meat pie has Andalusian-Arab origins. Slow cooked pigeon meat- although chicken is more commonly used nowadays- seasoned with a wide array of spices among which cinnamon, cardamon and black pepper. The meat mixture is wrapped in a blanket of phyllo dough, baked and finally topped with crushed almonds and icing sugar. Very unusual, one to try!

pastilla

Marvel at the golden gates of the Royal Palace

Or at least at its doors. The palace is not open for public, so you’re likely to be standing in front of closed gates. I found them beautiful, others found it a lame sight as you can not see the inside of the palace. I say, leave that to your imagination and check out the golden gates. They’re at least worth a photo stop, if you ask me.

royal palace

knocking at the golden gates

Visit a tannery

It’s fascinating to find out about the origin of your beautiful leather bag/shoes/insert almost anything. Visit the tannery, ask a few questions and learn all about the leather making process. It’s easy to get there: follow the arrows and follow your nose. As soon as you start smelling leather and piss, you’ll know you’ve reached your destination. Small tips for the guard or the worker explaining his craft are well appreciated, not to say expected.

meat rotting off the skin

drying skins

tannery in the medina

hard labor at the tannery

Learn to cook a tajine dish

Tajine dishes can be quite simple to make and easy to learn. All you need are fresh ingredients and the right spices. A secret recipe helps too. I got mine from a Moroccan CouchSurfer at a house party somewhere in the heart of the Medina. Alternatively, there are plenty of official cooking courses to attend in Fez. Recreating the dish once you’re back home, takes you back to your getaway within seconds.

learning to cook a simple tajine dish

to be enjoyed with friends

Get out of town

Walking around in Fez can take up a lot of your energy. Exchange the bustle of the city for a more peaceful setting in the partly excavated Roman city of Volubilis. Just 70 km away from Fez, you can find yourself in the middle of a stunning UNESCO sight, full of ancient ruins. Either take a taxi (1 hour) or catch the train heading to Meknès. It’s worth the trouble even for people who have a tendency to fall a sleep at archaeological sights!

out of town

Volubilis

Would you consider Fez as a (weekend) getaway? Where was your last getaway?

The post “Fez, Morocco: a Perfect Quick Getaway” first appeared on Travel Cake.

December 8, 2013
Eating dog in East Timor

It was no mistake, but a conscious choice I made under the motto: don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!

There I sat, in the hostels’ common room, chatting away with all the interesting travellers who were exploring a relatively unknown destination: East-Timor.

As we discussed our experiences in the country so far, a new found friend mentioned he had stumbled upon a canteen that served dog meat. I was intrigued! Especially when the Chinese girl sitting across me affirmed that it was a must-try dish! She described vividly how good dog meat tastes and how it’s served in the form of pudding in China. Wide-eyed, I listened and grew more and more curious. I’m the type of person who will try any food once -maggots and cockroaches being the only exceptions. I felt compelled to try it. I wasn’t likely to ever order it off a menu but now the opportunity laid right in front of me… slow cooked in a red and green chili sauce, just waiting to be eaten.

Hey, don’t judge…

slow cooked in red and geen chili

Maybe a little bit of background first. East Timor – officially Timor Leste– underwent a long and painful bloody invasion that only ended 16 years ago. The country suffered from famine during the long lasting war and people were left with no option but to eat anything edible they could lay hands on, such as dogs.

Once the situation improved, people had gotten accustomed to the taste of dog meat and truly enjoyed it. We spoke with a local Timorese who explained that even though they would see the dogs eating the human corpses lying on the street, they’d still choose eat the dogs. Partly out of necessity and partly because they liked meat.

first bite is the hardest?

Since 2002, Timor-Leste is recognised by the UN as an independent country and things have been looking up. Even though the economic situation is still deplorable, dog meat is no longer a necessity. Yet, many Timorese still enjoy a good serving of dog while others refuse to consume it, as it reminds them of bad times…

Timor-Leste is a catholic country where a significant amount of muslims reside; Indonesians, Indians, expats and locals. Since dog is ‘haram’ in islamic culture, the Timorese keep the dog meat (RW) in a separate cabinet, so it wouldn’t ‘contaminate’ the rest of the food.

know your meats… “RW” is no chicken!

Anyways… I ate dog stew. How was it?

The sauce was delightful; it had a nice little kick to it but overpowered the gamey flavour of the meat, which was tough and chewy. Its texture was comparable to that of an old piece of beef you find at the bottom of your freezer. This wasn’t a beautifully cut steak I got, just some random squares of meat, consisting mostly fat and skin… I wanted to be brave and I didn’t want to waste food, but… I couldn’t finish my plate. With every bite, I couldn’t help but picture myself nibbling on one of those scabby streets dogs. So, I put down my fork and drank a litre of water. I’ve tried it and now know for sure; I do not like dog meat.

What’s the most unusual meat you’ve ever eaten?

The post “Eating dog in East Timor” first appeared on Travel Cake.

October 15, 2013
Eating Penang

As I write this, I’m lying in the sofa, pants half open, thinking maybe I’ve overdone it. I’m on Pulau Penang, a small island off the coast of Malaysia, connected to the mainland by a 13.7km bridge. Charming! Chinese influence meets western colonial style. And of course there is the lush greenery around every corner, breath taking sunsets and knowing that there is a large body of water not too far away, is always a win, if you ask me.

So why am I slouched in the couch feeling like I’m carrying the love child of grease and sugar.

Well, the other thing Penang is famous for is its food. It is said to be one of the top places to experience ‘Pernakan cuisine’.

As a matter of fact, as I was doing my research on what to do in Penang, most suggestions I got involved food in one way or another.

So, what else could I do but to go on a street food frenzy?!

The hawker culture is such a big part of the local way of life. The food is cheap, tasty and the portions are just right. So off I went…

10 AM: BREAKFAST- DIM SUM

DIM SUM

This place was not on the plan, but the place where I was supposed to have breakfast was quite far away and I needed food FAST! Good dim sum, although I now realise I’m simply not a big ‘dumpling fan’.

11 AM: POST BREAKFAST SNACK- FRIED OYSTERS

FRIED OYSTERS

Deliciously crunchy. I experienced an entirely new texture and flavour. I must admit, I normally don’t like oysters at all- shame on me- but this dish has no connection to the oyster flavour I am accustomed to.

THE MAKING OF

THE MAKING OF

12.15 PM: LUNCH- EEL FISH BALL KOAY TEOW SOUP

eel fish ball soup

What you get is handmade eel fish balls, handmade pork filet and rice noodles swimming in a light and tasty broth garnished with lettuce and fried garlic. I was reluctant to try this one because I’m not too fond of fishballs (they are more or less in the dim sum family). Once again, I was pleasantly surprised by a new set of flavours.

Pitt Street Homemade Fish Ball Koay Teow Th’ng

183, Carnarvon Street

9am – 4.30pm. Closed on Sun & Mon

1.30 PM: DESERT/REFRESHMENT- AIS TINKAP

AIS TINKAP

At this point of the day, temperatures arose and I needed a serious cooldown. That is exactly what this drink did. It’s a concoction of shaved ice, coconut water, Indian herbs and rose essence. Texture is added with basil seeds and coconut flesh. I enjoyed this sweet Penang classic.

Tamil Street, Penang

12pm to 8pm (Closed on Sundays)

2.30 PM: AFTERNOON SNACK- TROPICAL FRUIT EXTRAVAGANZA

EXOTIC FRUIT

I had planned to go for curry around this time, but the heat was too intense to be eating hot and spicy sauces. I decided to go healthy instead and try some of that alluring exotic fruit that’s omnipresent in the street scene.

I went for the classics: mango, watermelon and pineapple. But I also tried the less familiar ones: starfruit, dragon fruit, guava, water apple and mangosteen.

4.00 PM: EARLY DINNER-CHAR KOAY TEOW

char keow teow

An incredibly rich blend of noodles, fresh veggies, sweet lard, egg, tiny clams and shrimp fried on a strong charcoal flame. As you empty your plate all the flavours really come together, making this dish taste like a greasy touch of heaven. I just HAD TO order seconds!

Located at the end of Siam Road

3pm to 11pm (Closed on Mondays)

The stall is insanely popular, the cook get dozens of orders every hour, yet he prepares every order separately so the dish wouldn’t loose its personal touch. Wonderful! This also means I had to wait 30 minutes (twice) to get my food. Absolutely worth it!

I left the hawker stall at 6.00 PM wondering if I was going to keep eating…

6.30 PM: “CAN’T EAT ANYMORE BUT MUST TRY SOMETHING NEW-BREAK”- NUTMEG JUICE

nutmeg juice

Now that is something new! The sign said it was refreshing and rejuvenating, just what I was looking for. It looks a bit strange and that’s also how it tasted. I’m not sure whether I liked this fresh tangy juice or not. It has such a unique and peculiar taste, it’s just something you must try to understand.

Shall I keep eating?

8 PM: DINNER- FAST SUSHI

sushi with cheese

I was tired and in need of some hardcore aircon, so I cave and exchanged one street food meal for a less greasy dinner. I thought I was going for something more familiar, but as it turns out, this sushi was unique in it’s own way. It had a cheese topping. Cheese. Is this normal??

The sushi wasn’t that great, I quickly regretted not having stuck to the street food plan!

Sushi King

1st Avenue Mall (LG-71, Underground)

I was meant to go for a “post dinner” meal, but I was DONE. No more. I turned around and left the food scene. What a fantastic day!

Have you ever tried an “eating-only” day?

The post “Eating Penang” first appeared on Travel Cake.

June 30, 2013