Tag: destination guide

Where to eat Vegan in Ubud, Bali

I’m not a vegan but the recent “clean eating craze”, has left me fascinated by the trending dietary belief systems. Gluten free, low GI, macrobiotic, vegan… I wanted to learn more. Particularly about vegan food.

Growing up with the Belgian/French food culture, I’ve always been a little sceptical towards cooking without “the good stuff”, i.e butter, eggs, milk, cheese, cream…

Like most uninformed non-vegans, I thought vegans generally don’t eat much, that their food consists of boring ol’ carrots and lettuce for breakfast, lunch and dinner. But every vegan I’ve crossed paths with has sworn to me that their meals are rich, tasty and creative. Just as much so as non-vegan dishes. I believed them yet I was still completely unfamiliar with the cuisine. This was something I strongly felt had to change. I couldn’t possible spend another year or so in the healthy food-yoga-medition-hippie town of Ubud without knowing something as ‘basic’ as what modern vegan fare entails.

smoothie bowl for breakfast

As a means to broaden my knowledge of vegan cooking, I challenged myself to eat vegan -and only vegan- for 10 days. I knew committing to an intense trial period was the only way for me to really get into vegan cuisine. I thought the challenge would be relatively easy as we live in Ubud, where we eat out daily and the vegan-friendly restaurants are plentiful. At least easier than if I were to be doing the cooking.

So this blog post could actually be titled:

Vegan restaurants in Ubud that will blow non-vegans’s minds

vegan sushi

The takeaway on being a vegan in Ubud:

Ten days of vegan eating flashed by incredibly fast. I ate refined, creative and bold dishes that certainly satisfied my hunger. I drank frothy coffee based drinks which almost beat the ‘real deal’, indulged in beautiful rich deserts, some of which definitely beat the original recipes. Not once did I miss animal products -ok, maybe once, when everybody was getting French croissants- but generally speaking, it was not hard to eat vegan in Ubud. The whole journey into discovery was so exciting, I was looking forward to the next meal every single day.

Did I physically feel different? Not really, though I felt generally lighter. Now that the trial is over, I’m going on a serious diet. A financial diet, that is. All the restaurants I visited are of great quality and worth their prices but dining there does eat away at your budget. So for the next few days; local nasi goreng (fried rice) every day!

To complete this post, here are the restaurants where I ate – and licked my fingers- during my vegan discovery week. Some of the best vegan spots in Ubud.

1. SAGE

Definitely mine and many of Ubud healthy eating expats’s favourite. Even for meat lovers, this place is a must try. It makes you instantly forget there is such thing as animal products. This is undoubtedly the place to go, for a dabble in vegan cuisine.

vegan cuisine at Sage

Address: Jl. Nyuh Bulan 1, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

2. BELOVED EARTH CAFÉ

A ‘sustainable eco restaurant respecting the earth and striving for harmony’. You’ll find Beloved Earth Café in the lovely gardens of ‘Swasti Eco lodge’. There’s also a pool which is open to restaurant guests.

offering a wide variety of vegan and RAW dishes and deserts

colourful dining area

set in a beautiful eco garden

Address: Jalan Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

3. ALCHEMY

Vegan café, juice bar, health store, holistic clinic, organic farm… Alchemy is more than just a vegan restaurant, it’s almost a small community centre, priding itself in honouring mother nature and its inhabitants. Sound to ‘floaty’ for you? Forget about the latter and just remember this then: they have an excellent breakfast bar you should try.

from the breakfast bar

sustainable delivery boxes

Address: Jl. Penestanan Klod No.75, Ubud

4. YELLOW FLOWER CAFE

The big draw about this eatery is the setting. It feels as though you’ve landed in a Roald Dahl story. Getting there, is just as dreamy, you’ll have to climb a gorgeous set of stairs into Penestanan.

steps into Penestanan

straight out of a children’s book (source)

Address: Sayan, Ubud (Climb the Penestanan steps in Ubud, turn right at the noticeboard, then follow the path)

5. CLEAR

“Eat the food you wish to be”, that’s Clear’s motto. Though I’m having a hard time conceptualise that saying, I’ve enjoyed eating their fresh, organic meals long before this little experiment started. Their juices and elixirs are sublime and worth a try too.

Yumm! (source)

Address: Jalan Campuhan, Ubud

6. KAFÉ and GARDEN KAFÉ

“A culinary innovation in healthy food”. You’ll find little kafé on the grounds of the Yoga Barn, an excellent spot to indulge in vegan renourishment after a sweaty yoga class. Those not into yoga, might feel more at home in the other Kafé which is located in one of the main streets of Ubud.

Macrobiotic bowl of steamed veggies

Address:

Kafé: Jalan Hanoman , Central Ubud

Garden kafé: Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud

7. DAYU’S

Healthy slow food. Now here’s a chilled out place where the chef really gets creative with fresh local produce. Dine here only when you have nowhere urgent to be though.

vegan burrito

porridge with coconut milk

Address: Jalan Sugriwa, Ubud

8. DOWN TO EARTH (‘Earth Café and market’)

Restaurant, health store and (!!) vegan cinema. I bet you haven’t heard of vegan cinemas very often. Check it out!

Middle Eastern influenced dishes

restaurant annex health store

Address: Jalan Goutama selatan, Ubud

9. KISMET

Long before this vegan experiment, Kismet had already conquered a spot in my top 3 favourite restaurants in Ubud. It’s not just the food, it’s the interior, the über cool atmosphere and the beautiful people you’ll find there. My top recommandation is the “asian bowl with noodles and vegan satay”. Enjoy!

Kismet chill out area

asian bowl with vegan satay accompanied by a glass of jasmine kombucha.

hello sandwich and desert counter, nomnomnom

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

10. FRESH (Taksu restaurant)

You’d never suspect you’re seated in the middle of jam packed Ubud. Taksu is a haven of tranquility serving excellent food. You’ll find the RAW and vegan menu in their terrace restaurant “Fresh”, whereas the garden café offers an attractive set of non-vegan meals.

the tranquil garden café

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

11. SOMA

“High vibes, organic delights”. Soma’s tagline summons it up perfectly.

coconut hang out at Soma

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

12. THE SEEDS OF LIFE

WOW! Not only vegan, but also RAW. This place was a true eye opener during my vegan trial period. I was so pleasently surprised by the dishes on the menu, I considered signing up for the Raw chef training they offer. “If this is what I’ll be able to cook, tell me where to sign up!” Unfortunately the “raw chef training” is too much above my budget so I’ll have to satisfy myself with dining in SOL.

dragon fruit chia pudding

the new seeds of life interior

papaya pancakes

I swear I did not JUST eat deserts during my vegan trial period

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

13. BALI BUNDA (Bali Buda)

“Real food by real people”. Restaurant and health store near the yoga studio ‘Radiantly Alive’. Another great place for a satisfying vegan meal possibly in company with your non-vegan friends.

gado gado, an indonesian classic. Mixed veggies, rice and tofu with a spicy peanut sauce.

Address: Jalan Jembawan, Ubud

14. LIVING FOODLAB

You’ll find this place on the grounds of HUBUD, ubud’s first co-working space. With a nice view over rice fields it’ s a great spot to relax while you wait for your food to arrive.

Address: Monkey Forest No.88X, Ubud

There are quite a few more vegan friendly restaurants in Ubud but 10 days was too little time to try them all. Let’s say I’m keeping those for a possible round 2 of vegan eating in the near future.

Have you tried vegan cuisine? Did you like it?

*Special thanks to Sam and Forest for helping me with this post! *

The post “where to eat vegan in Ubud” first appeared on Travel Cake.

June 9, 2016
Where to Travel in Iran – our two week itinerary

The moment we entered Iran, we immediately knew: two weeks is way too little time to visit this vast, fascinating country! Unfortunately we can’t always take month-long vacations, so we figured: two weeks is better than nothing! Although it meant we’d have to make some tough decisions regarding the places we’d visit. Considering we were traveling in autumn, the southern loop seemed like the obvious choice. It also happens to be where the country’s highlights are situated.

This is where we spent our 2 weeks in Persia…

TEHRAN – 1 Day

The first thing we did the morning we landed in Teheran was to book a domestic flight South. We aimed to get out of the capital as soon as possible. Now I’m not saying there is nothing interesting to see or do in Tehran but we figured there’d be more intriguing places to visit. Besides, we arrived during Ashura, Iran’s most important religious holiday which meant that the entire city was practically deserted. We managed to reserve seats on a flight that evening, leaving us with a full day to fill in Tehran. Since everything was closed, we spent the day drinking tea and mindlessly strolling down the quiet empty streets of an otherwise buzzing city.

prayers during Ashura

SHIRAZ – 2 Days

Just a short flight later, we arrived in Shiraz also known as the heart of Persian culture. “Shiraz”, that name… I imagined refined art, sophisticated poetry, elegant gardens, nightingales, romance and red wine. And that’s exactly what it was, well except for the wine since alcohol is illegal in Iran nowadays. Once again, due to the festivities of Ashura, we were limited in options of things to do. We mostly wandered around town, visited some iconic mosques, browsed the colourful bazar and shared some incredible meals with newfound local friends. We may have missed some of the city’s highlights but we experienced and learned about the fascinating religious holiday of Ashura, which I won’t go into further detail right now. It would need so much explaining it would have to be a post on its own.

ornate mosques in abundance

with surprising interior design

discovering the sweet stuff in the bazar

almost ripe oranges in the mosque’s court garden

the leaning tower of Shiraz

at one of our many tea breaks

PERSEPOLIS – NAQSH E ROSTAM & NAQSH E RAJAB – 1 Day

As a day trip from Shiraz, we chartered a taxi to another “mystical sounding” spot: Persepolis. I regret thinking we’d learn all there is to know about Persepolis from our guidebook and stories online. Reading about the ancient site is a good start but having a live guide enthusiastically telling stories, pointing out important details and explaining the symbolism on site, would have added value… Nonetheless, guide or no, walking amongst the ruins will spark your imagination.

the entrance of Persepolis

ruins that help you imagine what once was a grand majestic city.

After visiting Persepolis, we drove to Naqsh-e-Rostam & Naqsh-e-Rajab for a quick view of the majestic rock tombs. Impressive! Most taxi drivers or tours will advise you to add “Pasargadae” to your day trip. However, we skipped it and I must say, looking at fellow travellers’ pictures, we made the right decision. Though I’ve only heard good reviews from visitors of Pasargadae, whether you should go or not really depends on your interests and on how many ruins you can handle in one day.

rock tombs Naqsh e Rajab

YAZD – 2 Days

From Shiraz we took a nightbus to Yazd, an enchanting mud-brick desert city. My favourite city in Iran- I think. What made me love Yazd so much was the fact that it is so astonishingly different from any other city I had ever seen. Serene, quiet and entirely made of mud buldings… Come on! According to UNESCO, Yazd’s old town is the oldest city on earth. Can you imagine that?! Standing on the city’s rooftops, you get fairytale-like views over the brown city. Getting lost in Yazd felt truly magical.

exploring the streets of Yazd

sunset view from one of the many rooftops

tea time accompanied by Yazd’s signature sweets

KHARANAQ- MEYBOD – CHAK CHAK – 1 Day

In Yazd we met a driver with whom we arranged a day trip to the surrounding sites. Out of the three stops, despite the beautiful surroundings, we found the pilgrimage site of Chak Chak to be the least interesting to us visitors.

Chak Chak, Zoroastrian pilgrimage site

The 1800-year-old mud castle of Meybod (Narin Castle) was much more to our liking. I’m still puzzled about how a mud castle can be in such good shape after almost 2000 years of existence, surviving invasions, wars, modern changes… WOW!

Following a tasty lunch in a historic caravanserai -where strangely enough we were the only people- we headed to the mud-brick village of Kharanaq. This was by far the highlight of our day. Though I’m sure it’s not for everyone, we just loved “Indiana Jones-ing” in the crumbling, virtually deserted village.

lunch in a caravanserai

Karanaq

rooftops that made us feel like we had landed on another planet

pomegranates surrounding Kharanaq

GARMEH – 2 Days

Getting from Yazd to Garmeh was somewhat challenging but we made it! I’ve already raved about our stay in the desert oasis of Garmeh, it’s still easily one of my best travel experiences so far!

palm trees in the desert

Garmeh, desert oasis of my dreams

MESR – 2 Days

Because Garmeh was such a big hit, we extended our stay in the desert and headed to another, even more remote desert settlement: Mesr. We drove out with the new friends we’d made in Garmeh and had another remarkable stay in the desert! This time around there was dune bashing at sunset, stargazing, chasing renegade camels and desert sand hikes. Iv’e said it before and I’ll say it again: I love the desert!

sand dunes as far as the eye can see

our guesthouse in the middle of nowhere

ESFAHAN – 2 Days

The grandeur of Esfahan left us standing in awe. This is where you’ll find Iran’s most impressive, majestic architecture. You’ll be surrounded by sharply dressed youths having a good time out, families spending time together in parks and lovers dating somewhat publicly… Esfahan is a modern and vibrant city standing in strong contrast with more conservative places like Yazd.

Esfahan

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan

family day on the river banks

ABYANEH – 1 Day

Since we couldn’t find public transportation to the ancient village of Abyaneh, we hitchhiked there. Catching a ride was quite easy. Most people seem to visit Abyaneh as a day trip from Kashan but we figured we might as well spend the night. Apparently we were the only ones with that idea. Though this village is definitely not a “must-see”, we were thrilled to get a glimpse of a different Iran.

Irregular bus service to Abyaneh

streets of Abyaneh

All the locals we encountered in Abyaneh were elderly people dressed in a particular style. They looked very different from the people we had seen throughout the rest of the country.

KASHAN – 2 Days

Kashan, another place I was enamoured with. Whether it was due to the -once again- exceptional rooftops, our charming guesthouse, the abundant rose water, the “secret” gardens, the grand traditional houses or the lively bazars, I don’t know. Kashan really got under my skin.

just can’t get enough of these rooftops!

farmland hidden inside an old fortress in Kashan

traditional house

From Kashan it was a short ride to the end point of our trip: the international airport of Tehran. As you can see, we spent about two days in each destination. Because many of the attractions were closed due to the festivities of Ashura, this was just enough time not to feel rushed. We could have easily spent more time in each of the spots mentioned above and would have loved to visit other parts of the country. That’s why we promised ourselves there would be a next time! But in the end, the beauty of Iran lies, more than its sights or scenery, in its people. So any amount of time spent in the country is enough to at least get a taste of the Persian hospitality.

Have you been to Iran? Would you consider going?

The post “Where to travel in Iran- our two week itinerary” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 1, 2016
First Time Africa Travel: Where to Backpack

So you’ve decided to do it, you’re going to venture in what people find the scariest, darkest continent of them all. Let’s start by rectifying this misapprehension straight away, shall we.

Though there are some African countries that could qualify as somewhat “scary”, Africa is a huge continent. Did you know that Africa could easily fit the USA, China, India, Japan and Europe (Eastern and Western) all at once? How could a place this vast, possibly be generalised about, especially when it comes to safety, wealth, travel comfort, landscape or anything else for that matter.

true size of Africa- click to enlarge

Many travellers make it to Morocco, Egypt and Tunisia but never dare to wander more south, mostly out of fear. I won’t deny that the continent has its problems, but in terms of travel there is no reason to hesitate to chose Africa as a backpacking destination. That being said, it’s only natural to be at least a bit nervous about travelling to the ‘unknown’.

Every week I receive e-mails on this subject. Noob Africa travellers wanting to know where to go exactly. So I’ve come up with 5 of Africa’s most accessible countries; easy to backpack in, fantastic highlights, descent transportation, safe and a great introduction to Sub-Saharan Africa.

1. Tanzania: The Classic

Nothing wrong with a good classic. Going to Tanzania, you will not have any problems finding an easy tourist trail to follow while it’s just as easy to get off the beaten track. English is one of the official languages, so you should be able to communicate easily, even in small towns. The country offers a good mix of attractions: pristine beaches, mountains, scuba diving, rich cultural heritage, world class national parks… You’ll have the option to camp or to spoil yourself in the most amazing lodges and resorts. Tanzania has been hosting foreign visitors for decades, leaving it with a well developed tourist infrastructure.

A few backpacker highlights:

* Safari in Serengeti and/or Ngorongoro crater

scenes from Disney’s Lion King in Tanzania

camping in Serengeti park is a good budget option and tons of fun

you’re very likely to spot all your favourite savanna animals

* Chimpanzee tracking, Fishing and snorkelling in and around Tanganyika Lake

* Beaches, dolphins, culture, spices and architecture on the islands of Zanzibar and/or Pemba

white sand beaches of Zanzibar

carvings on the doors

cocktails on the beach

* Scaling Mt. Kilimanjaro

if your budget doesn’t allow to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, you can always admire it from afar. photo by Roman Boed

2. Senegal and The Gambia: The beating heart of Western Africa

Since The Gambia lies completely inside of Senegal you could easily visit both countries. Note that they each have very different personalities. Senegal, just like Tanzania, has seen visitors for decades. Though most stick to beach resorts, there is quite a good tourist infrastructure. In terms of communication, French is one of the official languages so unless you speak it, you’ll have to dialogue with gestures, which works just fine, especially in a country where laughter is more important than words. In The Gambia, however, you will be able to get by with English. It’s an up and coming vacation destination often nicknamed ‘Africa for beginners’. Due to its small size, you could experience The Gambia in just one week.

A few backpacker highlights:

* visit Dakar’s markets

Sandaga market, loud and colourful, just like Senegal. photo credits.

* Join a fisherman’s crew in Gambia

ask a fisherman if you can join him for a catch. Or sit back and watch them haul in the nets. Photo by Wendy Moriarty

* Live jazz and strolling around the historical town of Saint-Louis, Senegal

streets of Saint-Louis Senegal. Photo by Jan Dudas

3. Uganda: Mellow and diverse – can be combined with Rwanda:

I was surprised to see how easy it was to navigate through Uganda while lugging around a backpack. At the same time, it feels like an adventure asking people for rides on the back of their motorcycles. In both countries English is widely spoken, which facilitates contacts with locals. Uganda has a lot to offer: Safari’s by foot/4×4/boat, explosive waterfalls, vibrant nightlife, adrenaline sports, lakes and gorgeous hikes. There is a reason why they call it the “Pearl of Africa”. Adding Rwanda to your itinerary will bring contrast to your trip. Both countries have gorgeous lakes, offer the opportunity to go gorilla tracking and are a bird watcher’s paradise, yet they are so different to one another culturally. Keep in mind that you’ll need a higher budget for Rwanda.

A few backpacker highlights:

* Gorilla spotting

face to face with a gorilla in the wild, a one of a kind experience presumably worth that big chunk of your budget. old school picture by G. Vanden Daele

* Relaxing and bird watching in Lake Bunyonyi

waking up to this… Lake Bunyonyi, one of my favourite spots in Africa.

* Giraffes and waterfalls; Murchison Falls

sunset on Murchison Falls. Photo by Chris Moore

4. Ghana: The Gold Coast of Africa

The best thing about Ghana must be its diversity and contrasts. You will find dry lands on one side of the country, lush tropical forests and waterfalls on the other. Muslim, Christians and animists living side by side in harmony. Traditional villages run by a chief versus big bustling cities where you can find high quality australian steak as well as fashionistas parading through the streets. With its position on the West Coast of Africa, Ghana played a crucial role in the slave trade with the Americas. You can learn more about it in the former slave markets on Ghana’s coast. Again, English is one of the official languages and there are plenty of intercity buses giving you the opportunity to travel around the country with minimum plans and good comfort.

A few backpacker highlights:

* Cape Coast and Elmina Castle

immerse yourself in the history of slavery. you can actually still reek the human despair in the castles dungeons.

when the history lesson gets too intense, put the past behind you and enjoy a fresh juice on the beach while the fishermen prepare to cast their nets.

* Trekking in Kakum National park

mandatory photo with crocodile

* Experiencing village life and visiting Larabanga mosque

scenes around the villages

not your typicial mosque, Larabanga. Photo by Felix Krohn

5. South Africa: Western comfort in an African robe

If you are yearning for some African flavour but are not quite ready to leave your western comfort, South Africa is the place for you. It has everything you would find in a modern European country combined with Africa’s typical ‘joie de vivre’. From transportation to hostels and top notch sites, South Africa has everything you need for a surprising backpacking trip. I write surprising because wine tasting, surfing and sharing a beach with penguins are probably not the first things that come in mind when you think of Africa. Note that you may need a slightly higher budget than in the African countries mentioned above.

A few backpacker highlights:

* Cape Town and surroundings

Cape town has something to offer to every type of traveller. Also check out the surrounding vineyards and Robben islands. Foto by Jens

* Hiking in Drakensberg

the Drakensberg plateau borders with the tiny country of Lesotho, so if you’re looking to explore an extra country, why not cross the border. photo by Laurel Robbins

* Wild life spotting in Kruger National Park

because most first time Africa travellers want to see some game during their trip.

Backpacking in Africa is very different than backpacking in places like South East Asia. It’s a little tougher and more expensive. But the interactions with local people is much more intense as is the “I’m an explorer”-feeling. Though intrepid travellers would also very much enjoy the destinations listed above, I would probably add some other, more “edgy” recommendations. That’s for a future blogpost!

Have you backpacked Africa? Would you like/dare to?

The post “First time Africa Travel: where to backpack” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 12, 2015
Up close and personal with the Albanian Mountains in Valbona

The journey started in pitch darkness on the side of an Albanian dirt road. Luckily, I wasn’t alone; I was in company of a new friend I had met in a hostel. The owner of our guest house in Shkoder had promised a bus would make a detour to pick us up and drop us at the ferry docks. “Just stand by the side of the road around 6 AM”, he had told us the night before, “it’ll pass by”. So there we stood, no bus stop in sight and no other people around, hoping the driver hadn’t forgotten about us. The bus turned up 20 minutes late, just when we were about to give up the wait.

We arrived in Fierze after a few hours of zigzagging up and down the mountains, stopping for coffee and rakija (yes, at 7AM… apparently, it’s the normal thing to do in Albania) and listening to the local passengers have heated discussions about Serbia -that’s as little as my Albanian language skills allowed me to know. Once there, we embarked on a small boat taking us over the majestic Lake Koman, which according to the Bradt guide, is “one of the great boat trips of the world”. Despite the somewhat gloomy weather that morning, I can’t say I disagree.

Lake Koman, gorgeous despite the grey skies

The last leg of the journey was a short overland haul with 5 other travellers who had also found their ways to this lesser known part of Europe. After an 8 hour jaunt, we finally approached our final destination; the mountain village of Valbona. I had heard it was ravishing, but I wasn’t expecting to get completely taken aback by its beauty and serenity.

arriving in Valbona

After checking into my room, I took a brisk walk through the fall foliage to visit the town which is only a few houses large. I was smitten.

the restaurant and guesthouse

exploring the area

meeting the cows in Valbona village

My days in Valbona were all about breathing in some fresh air and getting close and personal with nature.

Valbona, where getting out of bed is exciting

There are plenty of hikes you can undertake in Valbona. From strenuous, overnight treks to hikes for ‘beginners’ lasting only an hour. Short in time for an overnight trek, I chose to do a 3 hour hike (one way), one that I am not likely to forget. I was out in the Albanian Alps all by myself, finding my way to the top through flower filled pastures, passing by cows grazing freely, picking sweet wild grapes, all the while smiling to myself thinking “how is this real?”.

horses along the way

I arrived at a house/farm where an Albanian family was running their usual chores. Chopping wood, making cheese, cooking, taking care of the animals… I was invited inside for some tea and accepted to share the meal the hostess was preparing. She showed me around the property and I dipped my toes in the world of cheese making- with freshly squeezed milk of course. An American family happened to pass by and ended up joining the fun. We roasted and peeled chestnuts side by side and enjoyed a “family dinner” together.

the farm in the mountains

making cheese

tea, nuts and wild grapes

chopping wood and roasting chestnuts

peeling chestnuts

family meal

The evenings in Valbona were all about feasting on home cooked meals and having conversations with the other travellers by the crackling fireplace. The home made wine would flow while our laughter would fill up the cosy wooden chalet.

satisfied

Spending a few days in Valbona was definitely a highlight of my trip to Albania. If you’re ever in the neighbourhood, I highly recommend you undertake the long but beautiful journey to Valbona.

I stayed in the Rilindja Alpine Rooms with rates from €20 (single) to €30 (double). You can just as well stay in a more expensive deluxe room or in a simple dorm. For more information on the region, hikes, sleeping facilities and activities, check out the ‘journey to Valbona’ website which has very detailed information covering everything you need to know.

What about you, do you enjoy hiking?

The post “Up close and personal with the Albanian mountains in Valbona” first appeared on Travel Cake.

December 11, 2014
Where to go in Bali – 10 Insider Tips

When I was living in Bali, my mailbox was flooded with e-mails from friends and acquaintances planning a trip to the island of gods, asking me which spots to hit. I probably should have written a standard answer to copy paste in every reply but just thinking about these places got me so excited, I didn’t mind carefully hand-picking the places that would suit my correspondents. Today, the same question continues to pop up regularly in my inbox and I’ve noticed I tend to recommend the same places on a loop. Anyone can open up a guide book or browse the internet for ‘things to do in Bali’, but these are the picks I recommend acquaintances, friends and readers.

Scooter trip Tirta Gangga to Amed & Bathing in Tirta Gangga’s holy water

Eastern Bali is an excellent area to drive around by scooter. The little roads lead you through picturesque villages and breathtaking landscapes. Somewhere in the midst of it all lies the ‘Tirta Gangga Water Palace’. Though the palace is alluring, it’s the soak in holy water that adds “pazzaz” to the scene. Spend the night in one of the charming guest houses in Tirta Gangga and visit the palace very early in the morning, before the day trippers arrive. There is something transcendental about taking a dip in a pool of sacred water surrounded by nothing else but sounds of nature awakening. From there drive to Amed and take in the natural beauty as well as scenes of rural Bali.

Tirta Gangga Water Palace

holy water pool

a divine feeling

view from my guesthouse

a ceremony on the way to Amed

Amed’s coast

Learn to dive in Tulamben

If you’re a seasoned diver, you might not love any of the dive spots in Bali. It’s just not the most impressive place to scuba. There are however, some beautiful submarine sites worth exploring.

Tulamben lends itself superbly as a place to get scuba certified. The fish and coral are both bountiful and colourful, there is excellent visibility and the water is warm. Right by the shore, at only a few meters depth lies a shipwreck in outstanding condition. It’s one of the few places where you have the opportunity to ship wreck dive as a beginner. Most of the dive spots are near the shore, so there’s no need to jump off a boat; you can just shuffle your way to the sea and gradually ease into deeper waters. Ideal for a nervous beginner. Not into diving? You can access some parts of the wreck by snorkelling too!

USAT Liberty Wreck (photo credits)

Exploring Jatiluwih rice terraces on foot

The rice terraces of Jatiluwih reflect the beauty of the Balinese agriculture. I drove to the UNESCO protected fields using the back roads and found myself at a non-official entrance. The only other people there were the occasional farmers working the land. Get got off the scooter/car and walk through the paddies of endless green. The further you walk, the less people and the better the experience.

cooking a batch of basmati rice, I never realising what beauty it came from

photo’s don’t even begin do it justice

Coffee, cloves and strawberries in Munduk

Anyone referring to Bali as an over-touristed hellhole, clearly hasn’t been to the Northern part of the island. In Munduk the air is cool and the soil is fertile. Perfect circumstances to cultivate coffee, strawberries and cloves. Munduk may be different from typical Balinese towns, nonetheless it’s not very memorable. It’s where the dutch held mountain retreats during colonial times to escape the Indonesian heat. That is still the main reason to head up there; a breath of fresh air, the hilly scenery, the waterfalls, the coffee plantations and eating strawberry covered everything -even pizza.

all what is good grows in Munduk

Gitgit water fall in Munduk

A Deep soul massage in Ubud

Ubud is a great hub to explore the verdant centre of the island. Base yourself here and enjoy all it has to offer: culture, art, spas, every type of yoga you can imagine, meditation, healing, delightful guest houses, organic restaurants catering to every allergy/food trend… Be warned, the town is extremely touristed. However it’s not too hard to get away from the over-commercialised areas and activities. As long as you know to expect a tiny but busy 10-street city, you won’t mind the crowed centre of Ubud too much. Let your hair down, join a yoga class, get a massage and a flower bath, eat an organic meal accompanied by a health shake and have a chat with locals. All the while wearing loose flowy pants and flipflop. Groovy?

spirituality everywhere you turn

yoga barn; the yoga supermarket

organic, locally produced, healthy food

Sunset in Pantai Suluban

Narrow steps in between cliffs bring you down to this tiny beach which disappears with high tide. The setting between the tall escarpment, the soft sand between your toes and unbelievably talented surfers riding impressive waves in the backdrop; It all comes together magnificently when the sun starts to sink in the sea. Strangely enough I didn’t carry my camera with me when I caught my favourite sunset in Bali! Perhaps that’s what made it even more enjoyable?

Suluban beach near Uluwatu (source)

Snorkelling with manta rays on Lembogan island

Nusa Lembongan is a small, tranquil island where you can truly spoil yourself. Be it with stylish yet affordable accommodation or with cliff hung spa’s overlooking the turquoise sea. Still, the best treat Lembongan has to offer is that of underwater splendour. Experienced divers may be able to encounter mola mola (giant moon fish) given the right season. But not all is reserved for divers. In fact all you need is a mask, a snorkel and a pair of fins. Try “drift snorkelling” where currents do the heavy paddling for you and carry you crossed the corals. Marvel at what looks like the worlds biggest aquarium drifting by and with you. The absolute highlight is snorkelling with 2 meter wide manta rays: so exhilarating!

R&R on Nusa Lembongan

not even the honeymoon suite

snorkelling with mantas. photo by Shawn Heinrichs

Beach Bumming on the Gili islands

Although technically not Bali but Lombok, the Gili islands are often visited as part of a trip to Bali. And they should. It’s THE place to be for the classic exotic beach vacation. No motorised vehicles, rustic shacks serving food and drinks, parties, beaches and all that goes with it. There are three Gili islands with very different personalities to chose from. Check out my Gili post to find out which one is right for you.

sandy Gili beach

Sunrise atop or at the foot of Mount Batur

Scaling Mt Batur to see the sun come up is one of the top attractions in Bali. Fit hikers can reach the summit (1717m) in a short two hour climb and can enjoy the sunrise from the top of an active volcano. However, I found that hanging around the slopes of Mt. Batur is just as pleasant. You can watch the sunrise from the foot of the volcano by the crater lake, have breakfast on its hillsides and bathe in the surrounding hot springs. Either way the Kintamani region promises a spectacular scenery.

watching sunrise over Batur’s craterlake with friends, leaving the hiking boots at home

volcanic hot springs near Mt.Batur

For the insane: ascending Mount Agung

As I mentioned above, the most popular volcano sunrise trek is on Mt. Batur. Let me just say this, from the top of Mt. Agung, Batur looks like a joke. Mt. Agung (3031 m) is the holiest place in Bali and although the Balinese tolerate foreigners ascending it, they themselves will not do so. It’s just that sacred. The climb starts around midnight and takes about 7 hours. From the top you have views over the entire island and you can even spot Lombok’s coastline and volcanoes. It’s a strenuous climb, to say the least and an even more taxing, somewhat dangerous descent. Pray for clear skies. If you’re looking for a physical challenge, this is it. I’ll admit it, I cried of desperation during this hike but I don’t regret doing it. Would I do it again? Nope!

For more “insane” activities in Bali, read my article “5 quirky things to do in Bali“.

thinking I’m almost at the top, I notice the pointy shadow telling me there’s still a long way to go

on top of Bali

Bali is packed with remarkable places, secret beaches, stunning temples, lush green valleys… So wherever you decide to go, there is no wrong answer. Except Kuta. Please, stay away from Kuta. It’s crowded, polluted, full of drunk teenagers, pimps and dealers. Mc Donalds, O’Neil and other chain companies rule the town. It’s the only part of Bali I really disliked.

One last tip: as you know by now, Bali is full of tourists, at times too full. I recommend you to visit the more popular sites as early in the morning as you possibly can. This is the only way to avoid the crowds and not return home pissed that you’ve seen too many -insert Western nationality. True, waking up at the crack of dawn is no pick-nick but if it means having ancient sites to yourself and the best lighting for photos, it’s 100% worth it! Don’t worry, there is always a quaint café nearby where you can take a nap later during the day.

unless this is your idea of a dream beach, stay away from Kuta

Which part of Bali have you enjoyed visiting or would you like to visit?

The post “Where to go in Bali – 10 insider tips” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 18, 2014
Fez, Morocco: a Perfect Quick Getaway

What is the perfect getaway anyway? For me, it’s spending a couple of days in a new environment. Leaving the old and familiar to take in new and exciting smells, tastes, sights and sounds. It’s getting a sensory overload, bringing you a renewed ‘joie de vivre’. It’s returning home relaxed, energized and inspired. I found it all during my December getaway to Fez, Morocco. Four days in Fez was all I needed to overcome the winter gloom creeping over my mood and to get the necessary strength to tackle the cold days awaiting in Europe.

There is nothing sunshine, Moroccan cuisine, a good dose of exotic culture and quality time with a loved one can’t fix!

Here’s how I experienced the perfect getaway in Fez.

Dump the city map

There is only one way to experience the old medina of Fez and that’s by getting lost in it. Just wander and enjoy not knowing where you’re going. Every corner feels like an important discovery especially since there are hardly any tourists during the winter.

narrow streets

markets

beautiful gateways

Shop or window shop

Fez has some gorgeous locally produced goods. High quality leather goods, silver jewellery, nougat, lamps, precious stones, argan oil from the South… The shop keepers are ferocious and cunning, so bring up your most assertive alter ego and operate your best bargaining skills.

buying nougat

beautiful lamps

selfie while drooling over lamps

Spend the night in a riad

The traditional Moroccan house (riad) really transports you to another world with its exotic grandeur. Riads are characterized by their (usually well decorated) inner garden/courtyard. When used as guest houses, you can be sure they are furnished in the most refined possible way, using local handicrafts. It’s the place to be for a relaxing “1001 nights” experience. Although many riads are luxurious and expensive, plenty of them offer budget/mid-range options.

budget riad room

breakfast in the December sunshine

If you can’t afford to stay in a riad…

Have drinks in a fancy Riad

If you can’t afford to spend the night, splurge for a drink! Dress up, get a drink and make the night count. Not something you do in everyday life.

fancy riad

inner court with pool

martini at the fancy riad

expensive but worth it

Taste “Pastilla”

Pronounced Bastila, the sweet and savoury meat pie has Andalusian-Arab origins. Slow cooked pigeon meat- although chicken is more commonly used nowadays- seasoned with a wide array of spices among which cinnamon, cardamon and black pepper. The meat mixture is wrapped in a blanket of phyllo dough, baked and finally topped with crushed almonds and icing sugar. Very unusual, one to try!

pastilla

Marvel at the golden gates of the Royal Palace

Or at least at its doors. The palace is not open for public, so you’re likely to be standing in front of closed gates. I found them beautiful, others found it a lame sight as you can not see the inside of the palace. I say, leave that to your imagination and check out the golden gates. They’re at least worth a photo stop, if you ask me.

royal palace

knocking at the golden gates

Visit a tannery

It’s fascinating to find out about the origin of your beautiful leather bag/shoes/insert almost anything. Visit the tannery, ask a few questions and learn all about the leather making process. It’s easy to get there: follow the arrows and follow your nose. As soon as you start smelling leather and piss, you’ll know you’ve reached your destination. Small tips for the guard or the worker explaining his craft are well appreciated, not to say expected.

meat rotting off the skin

drying skins

tannery in the medina

hard labor at the tannery

Learn to cook a tajine dish

Tajine dishes can be quite simple to make and easy to learn. All you need are fresh ingredients and the right spices. A secret recipe helps too. I got mine from a Moroccan CouchSurfer at a house party somewhere in the heart of the Medina. Alternatively, there are plenty of official cooking courses to attend in Fez. Recreating the dish once you’re back home, takes you back to your getaway within seconds.

learning to cook a simple tajine dish

to be enjoyed with friends

Get out of town

Walking around in Fez can take up a lot of your energy. Exchange the bustle of the city for a more peaceful setting in the partly excavated Roman city of Volubilis. Just 70 km away from Fez, you can find yourself in the middle of a stunning UNESCO sight, full of ancient ruins. Either take a taxi (1 hour) or catch the train heading to Meknès. It’s worth the trouble even for people who have a tendency to fall a sleep at archaeological sights!

out of town

Volubilis

Would you consider Fez as a (weekend) getaway? Where was your last getaway?

The post “Fez, Morocco: a Perfect Quick Getaway” first appeared on Travel Cake.

December 8, 2013
Gili mini miny moe

Finding the right Gili

For those of you who have not recently been inspecting the map of Indonesia, the Gili’s are three small islands just off the coast of Lombok, the island neighbouring Bali. All three Gili’s have that remote island vibe visitors look for. They’re all scooter and car free -which is very refreshing in Indonesia. The diving and snorkelling trips take you to all the good spots around all three islands, no matter which one you’re residing on. Each one of them has gorgeous white sand beaches and crystal clear waters. Yet they’ve each got a very different and unique personality. With only a couple of km’s apart, you could easily navigate from one island to the other. But what if you don’t have time to search for your perfect Gili? How do you choose the one that suits you best? That’s where this article comes in.

Ini mini miny moe, to which Gili island should I go?

1. Gili Meno- the smallest one

You can jog around it in 30minutes.

First impression- “hmm, this whole island is under construction”

About the beaches- there are a couple of patches of sandy beach, but most stretches have a significant amount of dead coral lying around. The shade is minimal. Using beach chairs is essential for basic comfort. Getting in and out of the water can get tricky as you’ll be walking on layers of sharp dead coral and stones. You can also find a couple of “mangrove-like” beaches.

sharp dead coral beach

mangrove like beach

Development- there is a limited amount of bars and restaurants, but they are definitely numerous enough for you to consume each meal at a different place for at least 7 days. There are sufficient lodging options to choose from, but the island still feels quite empty. At the time of writing, a few new guest houses were being built and the roads were slowly getting paved. There is very little street lighting so once it’s dark, it’s DARK.

After sunset- nightlife here is non-existent. You might find a few locals jamming on their guitars but basically after dinner, all you hear is the sound of clashing waves and chirping crickets.

Perfect for- the traveller who is serious about his/her tan, the CEO who wants everybody to leave him the F* alone, the semi-celebrity who wants to go incognito, the adulterer with his/her mistress/lover, anyone who wants to get off the grid.

A piece of advice- bring a torch. Bring a lot of a cash as there are no ATM’s on the island. A pair of water sandals will come in handy if you plan on swimming a lot. If you’re traveling solo, bring a Wilson.

Wilson for company

In a nutshell: the general vibe is very laid back. At times you feel like you’re the only person on the island. Ideal if you need some hardcore de-stressing. Watch out for stones and sharp dead coral in the shallow water. The latter being a result of years of dynamite fishing.

Meno sunset

2. Gili Air- the one with a green heart

The only Gili with a fresh water source (‘air’ means ‘water’ in Bahasa Indonesian). Consequently, it’s the greener island.

First impression- “Let the vacation begin”

About the Beaches- take your pick; there are sandy beaches, where you’ll find most people and there are deserted mixed beaches (sand and dead coral mix). The sandy beaches are relatively empty in the morning when everyone is out on snorkelling trips and diving excursion.

sandy beach in the morning

Development- one side of the coast is well developed with guest houses, cafés, dive centers, a yoga and meditation center… The other side has little development and is scattered with a few low key establishments. The centre of the island is rural; farms, family compounds, local eateries…

restaurants on the calm side of the island

smile included

green heart of Air

horse drawn carriages replace cars and scooters

After sunset- don’t count on a wild party. There are however, a few bars offering live music.

Perfect for- the “I don’t really like going to the beach”-types, the traveller who wants the deserted island sensation as well as Western comfort, yogi’s, families, nature lovers.

A piece of advice- rent a bike to explore the island. If you want peace and quiet, look for accommodation on the left side of the island (‘left’ when your back is turned towards the harbour). Go to the other side if you want more human interaction and more swimmable waters.

bicyling around the island

In a nutshell: the atmosphere is relaxed, the beer is cold and the sun puts on quite a performance every evening around 6.00pm. Cheap and decent accommodation is available and easy to find. It’s the place where you forget about time yet know exactly when happy hour starts.

happy hour and sunset

3. Gili Trawangan- but you can call me Gili T

The most popular one.

First impression– “Oh God, I’m old…”

About the Beaches– FULL. Of people, of bars, of restaurants, of club lounges, of shops, of dive centres, of beach vendors… Full of everything. HOWEVER, if you walk (or take a horse drawn carriage) to the other side of the island, the beaches are serene and empty.

full, popular beaches

the emptier beaches

Development- I think the line above explains the level of development well enough. There is a LONG strip by the beach, jam-packed with all that a tourist could ever desire.

After sunset- happy hour, cocktail hour, party, after-party… There are enough places that accommodate all the stages of a pumping party night. Pick up some live music, chill at one of the Ibiza-style beach lounges, grab some popcorn and attend an open-air movie screening or -if that’s your scene- order a couple of ‘magic mushroom shakes’ which are widely and openly available on the island. What ever you do, there is no way you’ll be in your bedroom fluffing your pillow by 10pm. That being said, please note that (during high season) the average age in the party scene is 20-26 years old.

ticket to the moon

Perfect for- the gap year student; the traveller who has spent several months in a remote area and is looking forward to a juicy steak, a good cup of strong coffee and someone to speak their own language with; the package tourist; the traveller who wants to combine party with some quality beach time; anyone under 24 who’s traveling in Asia for the first time.

A piece of advice- get some dark sunglasses for optimal and most discrete people watching. If you’re looking for a Robinson Crusoe experience, don’t choose this Gili.

In a nutshell: it’s the best imagineable summer camp for youngsters, 24 and below.

island rules painted on the wall

Conclusion

Personally, I preferred Gili Air. Although I had a fantastic time in Gili Meno snorkelling with sea turtles, catching up with old friends over a couple cool beers and devouring fresh fish off the BBQ, the island was simply too quiet for me. Gili T on the other hand, I found too busy, too crowded, too commercialised and I could absolutely not connect with the crowd. It’s just not my scene (anymore?). In comparison, Gili air is my kind of perfect. It’s the ultimate island feel featuring the best of both worlds. Of course that’s just my opinion. I’ve heard many travellers claim to have fallen head over heels with Gili Meno and others who swear by the upbeat atmosphere of Gili T. But as the French say, ‘des goûts et des couleurs on ne discute pas’ (there is no accounting for taste)

Which Gili would have your preference?

August 8, 2013