Tucked away in the cloud forest, on the slopes of the Ecuadorian Andes lies the sleepy town of Mindo: the perfect spot for a range of adrenaline sports. Whether it’s tubing, canyoning, mountain biking, canopy flying or hiking, you can do it all in Mindo.
Because I was physically unable to partake in any of these activities, I had a far more mellow “Mindo experience” than most visitors. And yet, Mindo was my favourite place in Ecuador. There is something magical in the air in Mindo.
our cabin in the cloud forest
Since adventure sports were not an option for me, I created what I would call a “Mindo for the broke”-itinerary. Though we weren’t actually broke, I figured this is exactly how I would spend my time if I had run out of money: skipping all the pricier adrenaline activities. Despite that they’re relatively cheap in Ecuador, they’ll still eat away at your budget.
My pseudo ‘Mindo for the broke’ itinerary mainly consisted of…
Eating.
Broke or not, a woman’s got to eat, right?!
The restaurants in Mindo serve excellent food! I had a meal in almost every restaurant and café in town -not very hard considering the small size of Mindo. Every single dish I tried blew my socks off. Admittedly, that might have something to do with the fact that we arrived in Mindo after having lived almost two months in a small isolated beach town with limited food options.
Some of the most impressive dishes were the steak in coffee sauce in El Quetzal, and the Mindo burger slathered in chocolate barbecue sauce in Inti Killa. Incredible!
German inspired plate of finger food in ‘the beehive’delicious veggie burger. Not the best looking plate of food we’ve had but we attacked the best dishes with such haste, it was impossible to photograph them before eating.
Coffee and cakes.
This is where you can see this is a pseudo budget itinerary. Because let’s face it, coffee and sweets breaks aren’t really a necessity in life… (or are they?)
But I figured, if I can’t have the adrenaline rush, why not indulge in a sugar and caffeine rush?! As it rains quite often in the cloud forest, what better way to wait for the rain to blow away with a warm drink and some carbs? El Quetzal served the best brownie I’ve ever eaten. EVER! I would go back to Mindo just for that brownie!
on a quest to find Mindo’s best brownie. This wasn’t it. But that view though…carrot cake and a latte while we wait for the rain to stop
Joining a chocolate tour.
From bean to chocolate bar to best brownie ever. After having eaten that amazing brownie, I noticed El Quetzal also offers 6$ chocolate tours. It sounds like a cheesy touristy thing to do -and in a way it was- but I was curious to find out all about the chocolate making process. So I caved and joined an elderly group of tourists on the tour.
raw, fermented cacao beans
Hiking to the waterfalls.
Just outside of town, there’s a series of alluring waterfalls surrounded by lush forest foliage. The hike was mild enough that we were able to really take in the crisp mountain air, chase butterflies and splash our faces with cool spring water. To get to the waterfall trails, we took a ride in a cable car soaring high above the canopy, side by side with the wild toucans. The ride could be considered an adrenaline inducing activity by an acrophobe but to everyone else, it can only be described as a pleasant and stunning short jaunt. The hike is free, the cable car ride costs just a few bucks.
the cable car to get to the waterfallsan easy trail to followdense cloud forestchasing waterfalls in Mindo
Hummingbird gazing.
My favourite activity in Mindo was relaxing in the hummingbird garden. We paid a dollar or so to enter the garden and had a drink surrounded by hundreds of hungry hummingbirds. I can’t say I’ve ever experienced anything quite like this before. The buzzing sound of their wings flapping at incredible speed, left me tantalised. I could have easily sat there all day just marvelling at nature…
To find the hummingbird garden, walk into any tourist office in town and tell them you want to see the birds. They’ll point you in the right direction.
hungry hummingbirds
And thus ended our 4 relaxing days in Mindo lindo. Full stomachs, no adrenaline, lungs filled with fresh air and a warm and fuzzy feeling when thinking about Magical Mindo.
As I previously mentioned in my post on backpacking in Africa, travelling in that part of the world can add up to be quite pricey. But with a little imagination and a sense of adventure you can travel/backpack in Africa on a relatively low budget. Of course, it will never be as low as India, Nepal or South East Asia but still cheap enough that anyone could afford it.
One of the African destinations that lends itself perfectly for an interesting, budget friendly Africa vacation is Uganda. I’ve visited the country twice, both times as a backpacker using public transportation.
This is what our budget backpack trip in Uganda looked like:
COUCHSURFING IN KAMPALA
I’ve quite often used Couch Surfing in my “travelling career”; both as the guest and as the host. When I Couch Surf, I usually do so in big cities as they can be quite overwhelming when you first arrive and I prefer experiencing sprawling urban area’s through the eyes of a local or expat instead of following a guide book.
As it usually goes with CS, you don’t always know where you will end up. We were in luck in Kampala and stayed with an awesome expat in one of the city’s fanciest areas, Kololo. Our host took us to his favourite spots in town where we chatted and laughed over some cool beers and fresh tilapia.
spending the night in a stylish loft with a view over Kampalaweekend at one of Kampala’s lake side beaches with beers and new friends
On the second trip, I stayed in a quaint hostel (ICU guesthouse, dorm 15$) on the edge of town where many semi-long term volunteers reside. Alternatively you could stay at Red Chili Hideway, it’s also outside of town but with a swimming pool and a free daily shuttle to the city centre. Red Chili offers a good deal on trips to Murchison Falls as well.
EATING ROLEX AND OTHER STREET FOOD
When on a budget, street food is the way to go. In Uganda, you’ll find grilled kebabs and barbecued bananas/corn -to name a few- sizzling on every street corner. The most popular (and in my opinion most tasty) street side snack are rolex (comes from ‘roll eggs’): a tomato-onion-paprika omelette rolled onto a freshly baked chapati. One would really have to have two left hands to mess this snack up! We’d eat rolex from the street almost every day for lunch and it never disappointed.
getting rolex by the lake, a shocking sight for Ugandans as rolex is considered a snack for the poor. Some find it hard to understand why a “rich” tourist would choose to eat rolex.the smell of the grilling meat is often much better than the quality of the pieces on your stick, unless you like bouncy, chewy meat …I know these deep fried grasshoppers don’t look particularly appealing, but they’re delicious! Like a cross between salted nuts and potato crisps. Anyways, they’re much cheaper than the ones you get in trendy restaurants in the West nowadays!
SAFARI’S AND HIKES IN QUEEN ELISABETH NATIONAL PARK
Just having just crossed the border form DRC (that’s a story for another post) we were in desperate need for some luxury and internet. So we threw our budget out of the window (for a day) and checked into a higher end lodge. Considering most lodges in and around the African national parks often have rates starting at €250 per night, this lodge – Kingfisher Lodge Kichwamba- was a bargain at €160 a night, breakfast and dinner included for both of us!
Disclaimer: these were the rates in 2011, converted with an interesting currency exchange from US Dollar to Euro. Today’s rates in Kingfisher Kichwamba start at 205$ for a double room, half board.
R&R in paradise after roughing it in DRC.
It was exactly what we needed: relaxing by the pool, a western meal á la carte, getting some work done, a much needed wifi fix and a view to die for.
infinity pool with endless views over Queen Elisabeth National Parkspotted some elephants from our room’s porchnot a bad way to get some work done!
After soaking in as much as possible from our splurge, we returned to our backpacker’s reality the next day. We hitchhiked to Simba Safari Camp where we stayed in a dorm, talk about contrasts! It’s a great budget place to stay, they also offer private rooms.
hitchhiking on the equator
From there we arranged a boat safari on the Kazinga Channel, bringing along a cold beer to enjoy with the scenery. You don’t need to book a package tour, you can easily arrange transport to the departure point and buy a ticket for the boat trip once you are there. Though I can’t recall the exact price, I can tell you it was definitely less than 30$ per person.
crusing down the channel, spotting wild life and having a cold one… What a chilled out way to spend an afternoon!
Instead of booking a multi-day safari package, we hired a car with driver to take us on a game drive in the national park. Though Queen Elisabeth NP may be far from the most impressive safari I’ve been on, it very well is the cheapest. Perfect for animal lovers on a budget!
crown birds at dawncrater lakegetting close to some lazy lions
There’s plenty to do in QE National Park like chimp tracking or looking for tree climbing lions but we opted for a more economical activity: hiking in ‘Maramagambo Forest’. Since we already had a car and driver for the day, the only cost left was that of the entrance fee to the forest and a tip for the guide taking you along the trails, pointing out various species of primates, birds and medicinal plants.
Our main reason to hit the forest, was to see the massive python living in a bat cave. Apparently, it doesn’t hunt, it just opens its mouth and waits for one of the thousands of bats to fly in. This is all the python does, all day long. Therefore it has gotten so fat, it can hardly move. We were keen on seeing the spectacle. Unfortunately we missed the freak show as the python had already returned deep inside the cave after its daily suntanning moment, when it drags itself out of the cave.
a beautiful walk through the forest in search of the fat lazy pythonnow that’s what I call a bat cave!
TOTAL RELAXATION BY LAKE BUNYONYI
Next we headed to Lake Bunyonyi, if you’ve been following this blog for a while, you might have read my post on Lake Bunyonyi, my favourite spot in Africa so far.
Lake Bunyonyi
Both times we stayed in a magical place called Byoona Amagara, definitely the best value lodge I’ve stayed in. For just 15$ per person per night, we had a small geodome with private bathroom and a stunning view over the Ugandan lake. They also provide dorms (7$) if you’re really tight on cash but the beauty of staying here is undoubtedly the geodome experience. There are plenty of other places to stay on Lake Bunyonyi, I haven’t tried any of them as I’m totally hooked on Byoona Amagara…
(clockwise) typical Bunyonyi flowery tree, stretching with my sister on our geodome’s sun deck, boating on the lake, view from the bed in the large geodomethe small geodome, no doors. Just a mosquito net between nature and yourself.eco-shower with a view
The entire trip in Uganda took us about 10 days, travelling quite slowly, spending enough time at each destination. You could backpack the same trip in fewer days but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. If you have more time, why not add a stop in Jinja and/or a jaunt to Murchison falls to see more animals and a stunning waterfall.
Have you been to Uganda? Would you consider going?
So you’ve decided to do it, you’re going to venture in what people find the scariest, darkest continent of them all. Let’s start by rectifying this misapprehension straight away, shall we.
Though there are some African countries that could qualify as somewhat “scary”, Africa is a huge continent. Did you know that Africa could easily fit the USA, China, India, Japan and Europe (Eastern and Western) all at once? How could a place this vast, possibly be generalised about, especially when it comes to safety, wealth, travel comfort, landscape or anything else for that matter.
true size of Africa- click to enlarge
Many travellers make it to Morocco, Egypt and Tunisia but never dare to wander more south, mostly out of fear. I won’t deny that the continent has its problems, but in terms of travel there is no reason to hesitate to chose Africa as a backpacking destination. That being said, it’s only natural to be at least a bit nervous about travelling to the ‘unknown’.
Every week I receive e-mails on this subject. Noob Africa travellers wanting to know where to go exactly. So I’ve come up with 5 of Africa’s most accessible countries; easy to backpack in, fantastic highlights, descent transportation, safe and a great introduction to Sub-Saharan Africa.
1. Tanzania: The Classic
Nothing wrong with a good classic. Going to Tanzania, you will not have any problems finding an easy tourist trail to follow while it’s just as easy to get off the beaten track. English is one of the official languages, so you should be able to communicate easily, even in small towns. The country offers a good mix of attractions: pristine beaches, mountains, scuba diving, rich cultural heritage, world class national parks… You’ll have the option to camp or to spoil yourself in the most amazing lodges and resorts. Tanzania has been hosting foreign visitors for decades, leaving it with a well developed tourist infrastructure.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Safari in Serengeti and/or Ngorongoro crater
scenes from Disney’s Lion King in Tanzaniacamping in Serengeti park is a good budget option and tons of funyou’re very likely to spot all your favourite savanna animals
* Chimpanzee tracking, Fishing and snorkelling in and around Tanganyika Lake
* Beaches, dolphins, culture, spices and architecture on the islands of Zanzibar and/or Pemba
white sand beaches of Zanzibarcarvings on the doorscocktails on the beach
* Scaling Mt. Kilimanjaro
if your budget doesn’t allow to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, you can always admire it from afar. photo by Roman Boed
2. Senegal and The Gambia: The beating heart of Western Africa
Since The Gambia lies completely inside of Senegal you could easily visit both countries. Note that they each have very different personalities. Senegal, just like Tanzania, has seen visitors for decades. Though most stick to beach resorts, there is quite a good tourist infrastructure. In terms of communication, French is one of the official languages so unless you speak it, you’ll have to dialogue with gestures, which works just fine, especially in a country where laughter is more important than words. In The Gambia, however, you will be able to get by with English. It’s an up and coming vacation destination often nicknamed ‘Africa for beginners’. Due to its small size, you could experience The Gambia in just one week.
A few backpacker highlights:
* visit Dakar’s markets
Sandaga market, loud and colourful, just like Senegal. photo credits.
* Join a fisherman’s crew in Gambia
ask a fisherman if you can join him for a catch. Or sit back and watch them haul in the nets. Photo by Wendy Moriarty
* Live jazz and strolling around the historical town of Saint-Louis, Senegal
streets of Saint-Louis Senegal. Photo by Jan Dudas
3. Uganda: Mellow and diverse – can be combined with Rwanda:
I was surprised to see how easy it was to navigate through Uganda while lugging around a backpack. At the same time, it feels like an adventure asking people for rides on the back of their motorcycles. In both countries English is widely spoken, which facilitates contacts with locals. Uganda has a lot to offer: Safari’s by foot/4×4/boat, explosive waterfalls, vibrant nightlife, adrenaline sports, lakes and gorgeous hikes. There is a reason why they call it the “Pearl of Africa”. Adding Rwanda to your itinerary will bring contrast to your trip. Both countries have gorgeous lakes, offer the opportunity to go gorilla tracking and are a bird watcher’s paradise, yet they are so different to one another culturally. Keep in mind that you’ll need a higher budget for Rwanda.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Gorilla spotting
face to face with a gorilla in the wild, a one of a kind experience presumably worth that big chunk of your budget. old school picture by G. Vanden Daele
The best thing about Ghana must be its diversity and contrasts. You will find dry lands on one side of the country, lush tropical forests and waterfalls on the other. Muslim, Christians and animists living side by side in harmony. Traditional villages run by a chief versus big bustling cities where you can find high quality australian steak as well as fashionistas parading through the streets. With its position on the West Coast of Africa, Ghana played a crucial role in the slave trade with the Americas. You can learn more about it in the former slave markets on Ghana’s coast. Again, English is one of the official languages and there are plenty of intercity buses giving you the opportunity to travel around the country with minimum plans and good comfort.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Cape Coast and Elmina Castle
immerse yourself in the history of slavery. you can actually still reek the human despair in the castles dungeons.when the history lesson gets too intense, put the past behind you and enjoy a fresh juice on the beach while the fishermen prepare to cast their nets.
* Trekking in Kakum National park
mandatory photo with crocodile
* Experiencing village life and visiting Larabanga mosque
scenes around the villagesnot your typicial mosque, Larabanga. Photo by Felix Krohn
5. South Africa: Western comfort in an African robe
If you are yearning for some African flavour but are not quite ready to leave your western comfort, South Africa is the place for you. It has everything you would find in a modern European country combined with Africa’s typical ‘joie de vivre’. From transportation to hostels and top notch sites, South Africa has everything you need for a surprising backpacking trip. I write surprising because wine tasting, surfing and sharing a beach with penguins are probably not the first things that come in mind when you think of Africa. Note that you may need a slightly higher budget than in the African countries mentioned above.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Cape Town and surroundings
Cape town has something to offer to every type of traveller. Also check out the surrounding vineyards and Robben islands. Foto by Jens
* Hiking in Drakensberg
the Drakensberg plateau borders with the tiny country of Lesotho, so if you’re looking to explore an extra country, why not cross the border. photo by Laurel Robbins
* Wild life spotting in Kruger National Park
because most first time Africa travellers want to see some game during their trip.
Backpacking in Africa is very different than backpacking in places like South East Asia. It’s a little tougher and more expensive. But the interactions with local people is much more intense as is the “I’m an explorer”-feeling. Though intrepid travellers would also very much enjoy the destinations listed above, I would probably add some other, more “edgy” recommendations. That’s for a future blogpost!
Have you backpacked Africa? Would you like/dare to?
I wasn’t sure what “on a budget” in Albania would mean exactly. Would my daily lunches consist of a raw cucumber from the market? Would I be forced to skip the bus fee in order to save a few bucks? Would I be sleeping in dirty dungeons, sharing bathrooms with 10 other people?
None of that was the case, especially not the latter. I stayed in a few memorable and great value spots in Albania that I’ve been recommending to fellow travellers. So why not share them on this platform too?!
One of the important contributors of my mind blowing stay in the Albanian Alps was definitely the Rilinja guesthouse. I was sold the minute I laid eyes on the quaint chalet in the woods.
easy to find
What’s so awesome about it: your own balconied room in a chalet amidst the glorious forest trees, offering views over the mountains and a fast streaming river. Or the crackling fire warming up the reception/restaurant welcoming you after a strenuous hike. The restaurant, located right beneath your room boasting a menu full of delicious Northern Albanian specialities -I happened to have tried almost everything on the menu and I can say with confidence, all the dishes are very tasty.
scrumptious dinner and wine with new friends – click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– the most beautiful hiking trails start near the guesthouse- maps can be provided
one of the hikes starting from the guesthouse
– they serve an excellent home brewed red, which comes in very copious amounts
– the restaurant/reception is a fantastic place to meet and socialise with other travellers.
Extra info: keep in mind that the rooms are small and their walls are paper thin. But in such a beautiful environment, you’ll be out and about all day, using your room only to crash exhaustedly at night.
your back yard
Rates start at €30 for a double including a huge breakfast. Share the room with a travel mate and you’ve got yourself a great budget deal! Prices are lower during the winter. Camping spots are available for €2. Do make a reservation through their website, especially during the weekend as the place can get packed with local tourists.
Florian’s guesthouse and it’s orchards – click to enlarge
On your way to Valbona, you’ll probably have to make an overnight stop in Shkodër, that is if you’re taking the scenic route there. It’s a small town that has a few charms and can be wandered around in a day, two at the most. But it was Florian’s guesthouse that made Shkodër memorable to me.
What’s so awesome about it: the guesthouse is out of town so you will get a bicycle (for free) to ride to the centre. That 5-6 minute ride on the Albanian streets in itself, is an adventure you will not forget. You’ll be eating organic, with produce coming right out of the back yard, straight onto your plate. You can even pick some of the veggies yourself, if you like. It’s the place to be for an authentic Albanian family experience: having “family” dinners with the hosts and other guests while surrounded by orchards and countryside peace. You’ll drink home made wine and rakia while sharing travel tales and have the opportunity to learn about Albania’s past and present through the fascinating stories of your host.
at the dinner table, clockwise: organic home made wine, birthday cake and rakia for desert, dining on home grown produce, veggie soup- click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– fun loving, warm and welcoming host Florian
– free use of bicycles
– full board option for €4 extra. Home made wine included!
laughing, toasting, drinking in true Albanian style
Extra info: the dorm is nothing to write home about, but it’s the cosy atmosphere and that pureness of rural Albania that will make your stay unforgettable.
Countryside scenes right outside your doorstep
Rates start at €11 per person including breakfast. Add €4 and you get lunch, dinner and wine. How’s that for good value?!
adding my pick of the day to my breakfast- click to enlarge
I loved Berat’s charm so much, it brought tears to my eyes. Spending hours breaking a sweat going up and down the cobbled streets, I was happy to end the day in relaxed atmosphere with a cool beer and friendly conversation at the Berat Backpackers hostel.
clean spacious dorm with beautiful views
What’s so awesome about it: a gorgeously renewed Berat style historical house. You won’t just be visiting Berat, but really living in it. A relaxed atmosphere lending itself perfectly for socialising with guests and staff in the hip communal living room or sitting quietly in the courtyard reading a book while plump pomegranates fall from the trees as they ripen.
Bonus points:
– right in the middle of one of the historical centres
view outside the hostel
– option to have a communal dinner in the hostel
– come at the right time and you might be able to help turn the grape/fruit harvest into wine/jams… the traditional way.
the traditional way… Photo by Berat Backpackers
Extra info: I stayed at the hostel during low season so it was very quiet. During the summertime however, it’s very animated. Note that Berat Backpackers is closed during the winter (December 1st 2014- March 15th 2015). Rates start at €6 for camping, €10 for a dorm bed in low season (€12 in high season) and € 12 per person for a private double.
All three of these guesthouses added that extra magic to my Albania travel. If you happen to travel that way, I strongly recommend you checking them out.
Which one would have your fancy? What kind of accommodation do you prefer? Hotels or guesthouses/hostels?
One of my favourite things about living in Europe is being able to change environments in the blink of an eye. If ever in need of foreign food, unfamiliar faces or a change of surrounding architecture, all you need to do is hop on a short flight out of your country to find yourself in an entirely different backdrop. Whether you’re just staying for the weekend or taking a day or two off work, you return energised and fully replenished thanks to the change of scenery.
Because I wanted to experience as much of the country as I could in a short amount of time, I decided to move around a little. Without having too much of a schedule I managed to see a little more than just one city, unlike usual short getaways.
DAY 1: PORTO
Thanks to the abundance of low cost flights, I was able to snatch return tickets to Porto for less than €60 per person. When it comes to picking a weekend destination, one of my main requirements is low transportation costs.
With its cobbled hilled streets, blue-and white tiled walls and a fantastic river side sunset, I found Porto the ideal place to start a trip in Portugal. Its small size allows you to stroll around and take in the atmosphere without feeling the pressure of having to visit a long list of must-see attractions.
Admire the architecture, try Port wine- the national drink, taste some local staples like grilled sardines or for the more adventurous, “tripas a modo de porto”: tripe cooked with dry beans, vegetables, pig’s trotters and offal. Although the latter dish is probably quite tasty, to me, it translated to ‘guts, pork feet and other organs’-stew, so I didn’t try it. If any of you have, please let me know if I missed out on anything!
The city really livens up in the evenings, cafés and restaurants are full of chitchatting Portuguese and internationals. Bars open late with customers often standing just outside talking, drinking, laughing on the street.
blue-and-white tiled walls of the Capela das Almasa travel nerd’s dream come true: drinking Port in Portosardinhas asadas -charcoaled-grilled sardinesthe Douro river banks by night
DAY 2: TRAIN TO LISBON
There are direct trains heading to the country’s capital from Porto every hour. The journey lasts around three hours and costs about €25 one way. We left Porto after breakfast and arrived in Lisbon in time for lunch.
I’ve said this before: I love cities by the ocean or the sea, Lisbon is no exception. The ocean brings a sense of cool and a laid-back atmosphere to the city.
A short visit doesn’t really do Lisbon justice considering all she has to offer; history, unique architecture, delicious comfort food, picturesque neighbourhoods, stylish shops and a vibrant party scene. Nonetheless, it’s a good introduction.
Lisbon’s roofshilly streetsPort wine, Portugal’s pridewalking around at night
DAY 3: LISBON ON FOOT AND BY TRAM
Yet another city that lends itself perfectly for exploration on foot. Lisbon is bigger than Porto though, so your feet will be thankful when you jump on to one of the signature yellow trams. We spent the day in and around Belém visiting castles, picnicking in the botanical gardens, trying the famous Pasteis de nata, which are not to be missed.
Monumento a los Descubridorestram 28 takes you around the histrocial centre of the citypasteis de nata from BelèmBelèm Tower
DAY 4: DRIVING TO THE DOURO VALLEY
On day four we rented a car and drove north, enjoying the beautiful scenery on the way to the Douro Valley. This area was recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and is THE place to be for wine tourism in Portugal.
It is crucial to have your own transportation when visiting this region as it allows you to move freely and make as many photo stops needed. As you drive down the scenic route, signs lead the way to a plentitude of vineyards. Pop in and visit one or several of the wine estates. Most of them welcome visitors and even have (free) guided tours around the premises, explaining the types of grapes and the manufacturing process. Sampling is of course, part of the learning process… But don’t get too carried away, you still have to drive! We spent the night in Amarante, one of the towns in the area.
Douro valley during springlearning about Port at a wine estatetasting Port straight from the caskroad trip funspending the night in Amarante
DAY 5: HOME BOUND
We made sure to use a rental company that allowed us to pick up the car in one city (Lisbon) and drop it in another (Porto). So on day 5 we were able to drive the car to the airport in Porto where we returned it. And so ended a perfect short getaway in Portugal.
IMPORTANT:
Ladies, leaves your heels at home. I’m serious, these parts of the country are absolutely not heel friendly. You’ll ruin your shoes and you’ll be too focussed looking down to enjoy the surroundings!
Desperately needing to spend some time in nature and to get a dose of exoticism, I set off to Turkey. My budget was rather tight, but according to my research, I wouldn’t be needing much spending money in Turkey’s easternmost province, near the border with Iran. Perfect, I thought…
As I arrived in Istanbul, I found out that unfortunately, recent political turmoil had turned the area I wanted to visit into a temporary ‘no-go zone’. I seriously considered persevering my trip despite the issues, but the travel agent almost refused to sell me a bus ticket and insisted I change plans. Eventually, the flexible and sensible traveller in me arose and I decided to go to Cappadocia instead.
Cappadocia, historical region in central Turkey
Cappadocia being one of the most popular areas in Turkey, I knew it would be trickier with my small budget. Since I managed to stay within budget, I thought I’d share some of the tricks that could allow you to have a cheap Cappadocia trip.
1. The classic: take the overnight bus to get there
Obviously, it saves you a night at the hotel. Taking the long distance bus from Istanbul to Göreme, the “hub” in Cappadocia, is like flying business class. Think wide reclinable seats with lots of leg space, a complementary blanket and a personal screen displaying movies- in Turkish. During the ride, a “bus attendant” strides through the vehicle’s aisle serving drinks/snacks and makes sure the bus is always tidy. The downside: there’s a toilet/smoke break every hour or so and all lights are turned on at each stop. So, maybe not the best night of sleep.
2. Walkto enjoy the magical landscapes
There are plenty of tours designed to show you the area, but honestly, you can do without. Just pick up a map and start walking. One of the tours might be worth paying for (the Green Tour) as the attractions are spread out over a large area. However, taking this tour reminded me how much I hate group tours. Important: if you don’t take any kind of tour, make sure you read up on the history of the area. It’s fascinating!
easy to find your waythe love valleyvisiting 11th century murals with green tour
3. Hitchhike
You might be discouraged to go for a long walk because that would also mean a long hike back to town. However, people in the area are generally open to hitchhikers and chances are you’ll get picked up by the first car/truck with an open seat.
waiting for a ride…
4. Lodge in a cave
Not only is it part of the whole Cappadocia experience, it can also be very affordable. Many of the cave houses have been transformed into home stays and pensions. You can easily find an inexpensive dorm room (+- €7, at the time of writing) in a cave hotel with swimming pool. Most of these places additionally offer a generous breakfast buffet, leaving you full until the afternoon.
feeling like the Flinstonesnot bad for a hostel…
5. It’s OK to skip the hot air balloon flight
It seems as though every single visitor to the region embarks in a hot air balloon during their visits… “an essential Cappadocia experience”. Admittedly, it’s probably gorgeous, memorable and what not. But with prices starting at €120 for a one hour flight in a crammed basket, the budget traveller starts to doubt… That’s food for a week! A great alternative is to wake up at dawn and watch the balloons float through the morning sky. Dozens of balloons amongst the fairy chimneys. Stunning! At no point did I wish to be inside a balloon… This view was just perfect -and free.
the town at dawnsunrise, hot air balloons and a new friend…priceless
6. Cappadocian wine tasting
Wait, what is wine tasting doing on a “budget tip” list? First of all because… Turkish wine? Who knew?! That’s just an exciting must-try! Regardless of your budget. Second, a glass of Cappadocian wine is moderately priced and -in my humble opinion- not that great (yet?), so you’re not likely to go for seconds. Still worth a taste!
wine tasting along the way
7. Skip the Hammam
The Hammam in Göreme is pricey. Unless that’s where you want to splurge, I suggest you hold that experience for a larger city in Turkey.
8. Relax and Enjoy the silence
Although you’re in a touristy area, it’s still a quiet environment. Order a pot of tea and do some people watching or read that book you’ve been carrying around… Savour the peace and quite while soaking in the surroundings. This is probably my favourite thing about traveling on a budget: the monetary restrictions force you to spend at least one day not spending and consuming but slowing down and enjoying the beautiful, small things in this world.
customary tulip tea glassin silence
9. Donate a strand of hair to win a trip back to Cappadocia
There is a tiny ‘hair museum’ in the town of Avanos. It’s basically a cave with over 16.000 hair strands hanging from the walls and ceiling. Female visitors from all over the world donate a lock of hair to which their names and address is adhered. Twice a year, Mr. Galip, potter and owner of the museum, picks a lucky winner to return to Cappadocia and learn the art of pottery, all expenses paid. He has not mailed me yet. Entrance to the museum is free.
One week lay over in ‘Kota Kinabalu’ or ‘KK’ for friends, capital of Sabah, the second largest state of Malaysia. Located on the island of Borneo, the state is reputed for its rich natural diversity.
It boasts Malaysia’s highest peak, a UNESCO world heritage tropical jungle, pristine beaches, world-class dive sites and orangutans in the wild.
Amazing!
Who wouldn’t want a weeklong layover in what sounds like an ecological paradise?! You would be mad not to grasp the opportunity to explore the riches of Sabah. Yet here I was, comfortably settled in my hostel dorm room, not planning any activities at all.
What happened?
Sabah does indeed have some gems, but like most treasures, they are highly protected. This means you mostly need to book packaged tours to explore the majority of them. That’s right, forget the ‘National Geographic-type’ scene of you and your local guide machetting your way through the lush steamy rainforest. There are clearly marked paths and lots of other tourists.
entrance to the park
To climb Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia’s highest mountain, you need to book your overnight expedition months ahead and it will set you back €270.
Kinabalu peak from a safe distance
During your organised canoe safari through the jungle rivers, your guide tells you he can’t stop the boat for you to check out the monkey posing by the river bank because it’s already 6.05pm and your tour ends at 6pm. (True story from several travellers I met)
You’re obviously not the only one taking the tours, so you can expect hordes of (Chinese) tourists, island hopping with you and leaving trash all over the not so deserted beaches.
arrival of a tourist group
For a guaranteed sighting of orangutangs swinging freely through the treetops you need to make way to the rehabilitation centre… Why spend seven hours on the road only to have to fight off a crowd of tourists on the viewing platform.
Don’t get me wrong, there are possibilities to have a more authentic Borneo experience and not use tours, but it will take you quite some time, effort and money.
So what happened?
I was simply not in the mood for extensive travel nor did I want a disneyland-type outing despite the fact that the attractions are unique in the world. I decided not to partake in the “mandatory” tourist trail. I spent most my days in Kota Kinabalu working from the hostel, getting massages, eating, socialising with travellers and the hostel personnel.
daily dose of Malaysian staples
After a while I started feeling some traveler’s guilt, thinking “I really ought to visit something...ANYTHING!”
So I took 3 short trips from KK and as it turns out, you can perfectly “fake” the tourist trail bygoing on day trips!
Even though I was being a lazy traveler, I still managed to see most of Sabah’s highlights!
One of the trips, which was actually an overnight trip, took me to Kinabalu National park
I didn’t climb Mt. Kinabalu but I did mount some sloping hills around it and got some great views
views
I hiked a few km’s through the rainforest
light hiking
A 15 minute boat ride just off KK’s coast took me to some unspoilt beaches.
deserted beachperfect for a beer
The last outing, took me to Rasa Ria, a five star resort which has its own nature reserve. It’s a short 45 minute taxi ride away from KK, which allowed me to spend a few a hours getting close and personal with our orangutan cousins. The resort’s rehabilitation centre is in close coöperation with the larger and more popular Sepilok Nature Reserve. There are much less orangutans in Rasa Ria, but also less tourists and the monkeys play around closer to the viewing platform.
happy and freebuddies
Unfortunately, diving was the only activity missing from my ‘lazy travel itinerary’. It takes an extra flight, a bus trip and truckload of cash (at least €500) to reach the underwater paradise of Sipidan. Although it would have undoubtedly been worth the trouble, I didn’t have the money. I still managed to see a lot of fish… on my plate!
yellow fin tunalobsterblowfishtropical fishblue spotted stingray
I spoke with many travellers in Sabah and they all confirmed my thoughts: by visiting this part of Borneo, you probably won’t be in for a rugged, authentic and unique adventure. Unless you have an abundance of time and resources, that is.
Sabah is a great destination if you long to comfortably experience what Borneo has to offer minus the hassle of organising permits, transportation… I would advice you to combine a visit to Sabah with –time permitting- Sarawak, the other Malaysian state on the island.
For a more unspoilt cultural and natural Bornean experience, head to Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo.
Have you ever skipped the main tourist attractions because you just didn’t feel like it?
I had been dreaming of going to Copehagen for such a long time, it was almost becoming an obsession. However, as we all know, Scandinavia can get quite pricey for us, outsiders. I had some time to spare but no cash to spend. Yet it had become an urge I just couldn’t resist any longer. So I talked to one of my most adventurous and spontaneous friends, K. We put our creative minds together and came up with an idea: Let’s have a fab long weekend in Copenhagen spending only €50.
Challenge accepted!
We managed to do a 4 day getaway from Belgium to Denmark spending no more than €50 each, all costs included. The good time was an added bonus. Here’s our methode…
How to spend a fabulous weekend in Copenhagen armed with only €50 and a smile
# 1 Hitchhike
Neither of us had done it before so we were a little nervous at first. Would we manage to get rides? – I mean after all, we are two little brown girls… What if a creepy looking person stops to pick you up… How do you refuse the ride? “sorry, you look like a rapist, I respectfully refuse your help”… Luckily, we’ve never had to deal with either situation and we quickly realised that when two girls hitchhike, they always catch a ride. The waiting time was so ridiculously short with an average wait of 1-3 minutes!
hitch hike
# 2 Bring along leftovers from your pantry
To reduce costs we brought along some leftovers found in our pantries: a pack of waffles, a couple of dried sausages, 1bag of pasta, 1 bottle of wine, 1 can of Frankfurters, 1 bag of soft sandwiches and couple of tea bags. Perfect for breakfast, lunch or snacks.
breakfast of champions
# 3 Get a ride from Suriname students that offers you a free McDonalds lunch
Some of the people that picked us up were so generous. Going out of their way for us, sharing their food, giving us useful things they had lying in their cars like bottles of booze and an umbrella… Others had interesting stories to tell, like the CEO who traveled around the globe and was bored of the classy 5-star hotels or the polish millionaire that had a semi-dodgy car businesses. The 65 year old truck driver who was madly in love with his wife of 40-something years or the three Suriname students who thought we were insane for hitchhiking and ended up buying us a meal at McDonalds. Each and every one of the drivers asked us the same question: “Isn’t this dangerous?” to which we would reply: “that will depend on you…”
people on the way
# 4 Use cardboard from in the trash to make your signs
making signs as we go
# 5 Use your puppy eyes to catch that ride
PLEASE
#6 To avoid rides from scary, dangerous men, always put on your “street face”.
‘SUP…
# 7 Pyjama party at a local friend’s place
Once in Copenhagen we were welcomed into the home of a friend I had met two summers earlier. At that time she spent a week at my place so she was happy to return the favour and let us crash on her floor for a couple of nights. She was so kind to spoil us with a nice dinner when we arrived and a delicious breakfast in the morning. If you don’t have a local friend I suggest looking for a host/friend on Couchsurfing, hospitality club or BeWelcome.
breakfast with Sofie
# 8 Get your hands on a free city bike to cruise around the city
The free city bicycles of Copenhagen are so popular that they are not very easy to find, but if you look carefully enough you’ll be able to pick one up and leave it behind at one of the many bicycle stations around the city. No complicated ‘credit card registration-type’ arrangements here, you just slip a 20Kr coin into the slot and it unlocks your bicycle. Your coin is returned to you as soon as you park your bike in the foreseen slot. EASY!
free bicycle
# 9 explore the city by foot
Walking around town is always free. There are so much interesting architecture around the city that you don’t necessarily need to go inside any museums and palaces to soak in some of the culture and architectural beauty.
around town
# 10 Ignore the morning flea markets
We started browsing saying “we’re not going to buy anything!!”. Guess how that ended… But if you really can’t help yourself… You can really get a good deal at these markets. Bangkok prices! Alternatively do some window shopping.
flea market
# 11 Visit free art expositions
art expo
# 12 Stumble upon a free (coffee) festival
There is so much going on in the city during the summer time, that you are bound to find some kind of (free) gathering. This mini festival had great artists performing and free coffee samples. We spent a couple of hours listening to Danish-Zanzibari hip hop drinking as many caffeine sample shots we could stomach. A perfect afternoon activity if you ask me.
coffee festival
# 13 Have dinner at ‘Morgenstedet’
It’s an amazing vegetarian restaurant in Christiana where you can share the huge portions with your buddy. The food they serve is made from fresh and organically grown vegetables. Check out this half portion…
half burrito
# 14 People watch in Nyhavn
Or anywhere else by the water. Get yourself a bottle of cheap wine from the supermarket and perhaps a bag of mixed nuts. Sit back, relax and enjoy the view and the company.
NYHAVNchillaxing by the water
And so we concluded our trip with a long hitchhiking day back to Belgium which we managed to do in one day. Although I don’t advise doing this many kilometres at once. It’s extremely exhausting; smiling to catch rides, chatting with the driver during hours, explaining who you are and what your trip is about every time you get in a car…
last leg of the trip in a truck. Yes, that’s a bed.
To remember: getting stuck on the road is part of the trip! Enjoy it!
