Tag: Bali

Where to eat Vegan in Ubud, Bali

I’m not a vegan but the recent “clean eating craze”, has left me fascinated by the trending dietary belief systems. Gluten free, low GI, macrobiotic, vegan… I wanted to learn more. Particularly about vegan food.

Growing up with the Belgian/French food culture, I’ve always been a little sceptical towards cooking without “the good stuff”, i.e butter, eggs, milk, cheese, cream…

Like most uninformed non-vegans, I thought vegans generally don’t eat much, that their food consists of boring ol’ carrots and lettuce for breakfast, lunch and dinner. But every vegan I’ve crossed paths with has sworn to me that their meals are rich, tasty and creative. Just as much so as non-vegan dishes. I believed them yet I was still completely unfamiliar with the cuisine. This was something I strongly felt had to change. I couldn’t possible spend another year or so in the healthy food-yoga-medition-hippie town of Ubud without knowing something as ‘basic’ as what modern vegan fare entails.

smoothie bowl for breakfast

As a means to broaden my knowledge of vegan cooking, I challenged myself to eat vegan -and only vegan- for 10 days. I knew committing to an intense trial period was the only way for me to really get into vegan cuisine. I thought the challenge would be relatively easy as we live in Ubud, where we eat out daily and the vegan-friendly restaurants are plentiful. At least easier than if I were to be doing the cooking.

So this blog post could actually be titled:

Vegan restaurants in Ubud that will blow non-vegans’s minds

vegan sushi

The takeaway on being a vegan in Ubud:

Ten days of vegan eating flashed by incredibly fast. I ate refined, creative and bold dishes that certainly satisfied my hunger. I drank frothy coffee based drinks which almost beat the ‘real deal’, indulged in beautiful rich deserts, some of which definitely beat the original recipes. Not once did I miss animal products -ok, maybe once, when everybody was getting French croissants- but generally speaking, it was not hard to eat vegan in Ubud. The whole journey into discovery was so exciting, I was looking forward to the next meal every single day.

Did I physically feel different? Not really, though I felt generally lighter. Now that the trial is over, I’m going on a serious diet. A financial diet, that is. All the restaurants I visited are of great quality and worth their prices but dining there does eat away at your budget. So for the next few days; local nasi goreng (fried rice) every day!

To complete this post, here are the restaurants where I ate – and licked my fingers- during my vegan discovery week. Some of the best vegan spots in Ubud.

1. SAGE

Definitely mine and many of Ubud healthy eating expats’s favourite. Even for meat lovers, this place is a must try. It makes you instantly forget there is such thing as animal products. This is undoubtedly the place to go, for a dabble in vegan cuisine.

vegan cuisine at Sage

Address: Jl. Nyuh Bulan 1, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

2. BELOVED EARTH CAFÉ

A ‘sustainable eco restaurant respecting the earth and striving for harmony’. You’ll find Beloved Earth Café in the lovely gardens of ‘Swasti Eco lodge’. There’s also a pool which is open to restaurant guests.

offering a wide variety of vegan and RAW dishes and deserts

colourful dining area

set in a beautiful eco garden

Address: Jalan Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud

3. ALCHEMY

Vegan café, juice bar, health store, holistic clinic, organic farm… Alchemy is more than just a vegan restaurant, it’s almost a small community centre, priding itself in honouring mother nature and its inhabitants. Sound to ‘floaty’ for you? Forget about the latter and just remember this then: they have an excellent breakfast bar you should try.

from the breakfast bar

sustainable delivery boxes

Address: Jl. Penestanan Klod No.75, Ubud

4. YELLOW FLOWER CAFE

The big draw about this eatery is the setting. It feels as though you’ve landed in a Roald Dahl story. Getting there, is just as dreamy, you’ll have to climb a gorgeous set of stairs into Penestanan.

steps into Penestanan

straight out of a children’s book (source)

Address: Sayan, Ubud (Climb the Penestanan steps in Ubud, turn right at the noticeboard, then follow the path)

5. CLEAR

“Eat the food you wish to be”, that’s Clear’s motto. Though I’m having a hard time conceptualise that saying, I’ve enjoyed eating their fresh, organic meals long before this little experiment started. Their juices and elixirs are sublime and worth a try too.

Yumm! (source)

Address: Jalan Campuhan, Ubud

6. KAFÉ and GARDEN KAFÉ

“A culinary innovation in healthy food”. You’ll find little kafé on the grounds of the Yoga Barn, an excellent spot to indulge in vegan renourishment after a sweaty yoga class. Those not into yoga, might feel more at home in the other Kafé which is located in one of the main streets of Ubud.

Macrobiotic bowl of steamed veggies

Address:

Kafé: Jalan Hanoman , Central Ubud

Garden kafé: Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud

7. DAYU’S

Healthy slow food. Now here’s a chilled out place where the chef really gets creative with fresh local produce. Dine here only when you have nowhere urgent to be though.

vegan burrito

porridge with coconut milk

Address: Jalan Sugriwa, Ubud

8. DOWN TO EARTH (‘Earth Café and market’)

Restaurant, health store and (!!) vegan cinema. I bet you haven’t heard of vegan cinemas very often. Check it out!

Middle Eastern influenced dishes

restaurant annex health store

Address: Jalan Goutama selatan, Ubud

9. KISMET

Long before this vegan experiment, Kismet had already conquered a spot in my top 3 favourite restaurants in Ubud. It’s not just the food, it’s the interior, the über cool atmosphere and the beautiful people you’ll find there. My top recommandation is the “asian bowl with noodles and vegan satay”. Enjoy!

Kismet chill out area

asian bowl with vegan satay accompanied by a glass of jasmine kombucha.

hello sandwich and desert counter, nomnomnom

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

10. FRESH (Taksu restaurant)

You’d never suspect you’re seated in the middle of jam packed Ubud. Taksu is a haven of tranquility serving excellent food. You’ll find the RAW and vegan menu in their terrace restaurant “Fresh”, whereas the garden café offers an attractive set of non-vegan meals.

the tranquil garden café

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

11. SOMA

“High vibes, organic delights”. Soma’s tagline summons it up perfectly.

coconut hang out at Soma

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

12. THE SEEDS OF LIFE

WOW! Not only vegan, but also RAW. This place was a true eye opener during my vegan trial period. I was so pleasently surprised by the dishes on the menu, I considered signing up for the Raw chef training they offer. “If this is what I’ll be able to cook, tell me where to sign up!” Unfortunately the “raw chef training” is too much above my budget so I’ll have to satisfy myself with dining in SOL.

dragon fruit chia pudding

the new seeds of life interior

papaya pancakes

I swear I did not JUST eat deserts during my vegan trial period

Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud

13. BALI BUNDA (Bali Buda)

“Real food by real people”. Restaurant and health store near the yoga studio ‘Radiantly Alive’. Another great place for a satisfying vegan meal possibly in company with your non-vegan friends.

gado gado, an indonesian classic. Mixed veggies, rice and tofu with a spicy peanut sauce.

Address: Jalan Jembawan, Ubud

14. LIVING FOODLAB

You’ll find this place on the grounds of HUBUD, ubud’s first co-working space. With a nice view over rice fields it’ s a great spot to relax while you wait for your food to arrive.

Address: Monkey Forest No.88X, Ubud

There are quite a few more vegan friendly restaurants in Ubud but 10 days was too little time to try them all. Let’s say I’m keeping those for a possible round 2 of vegan eating in the near future.

Have you tried vegan cuisine? Did you like it?

*Special thanks to Sam and Forest for helping me with this post! *

The post “where to eat vegan in Ubud” first appeared on Travel Cake.

June 9, 2016
How living in Bali ruined me

I know the title sounds a little dramatic but hear me out…

After having lived a year in Bali we were sure a change of scenery would do us good. Word around the net was, Ecuador and Colombia were the new buzzing hot spots, perfect for digital nomads like us. So we crossed the globe in search of our new nomadic headquarters. We set foot in South America psyched up and convinced we would find ‘the one’. That one town that would feel like home. The one boasting everything a digital nomad could ever dream of: fast internet, an affordable cost of living, a moderate climate, an effortless visa policy and an amicable general atmosphere. Preferably set in a natural environment and with a variety of great eats. Talk about high standards…

stunning natural scenery

Once in South America, we couldn’t help but compare every potential living spot to our old (romanticised) lives in Bali. We’d always find something that wasn’t quite right; too cold, too urban, too expensive, too loud, too far from civilisation, too much this, not enough that… We didn’t fully realise it then, but we were actually on the look out for a second Bali. A second Ubud to be more precise.

We loved this gem in Ecuador but… there was a but.

Ecuador and Colombia are both absolutely stunning countries with mind blowing and incredibly diverse nature, friendly people, lots of exciting activities, great internet, endless sunshine, top notch food, good vibes… Yet we couldn’t see ourselves living in any of the towns and cities we visited. What was going on? I usually find a great deal of places I’d love to live in during my travels. I puzzled over the issue and finally understood what was going on. There was positively nothing wrong with these places, they just weren’t Ubud.

searching for a home in Ecuador

It was as though we had just gotten through a break up and were still hung up on our ex-love. Still thinking about her, comparing every new encounter to her, secretly wishing we were still with her… So the big question arose: do you return to your old love or do you push through until you’ve completely forgotten about her?

In any other situation, I would opt for the latter, no questions asked. But these were different circumstances; we didn’t leave Bali because we got bored of her or because we needed a break but rather for practical reasons. You could say, we never really broke up. Be it as it may, Bali was still in our heads and in our hearts. We were not done with her.

in Bali somewhere along the road

That is why we decided to move back to Ubud! Back to our old lives, with a new addition. Though our situation, goals and expectations are different this time around, it feels like we’ve landed exactly where we need to be. However, I can’t help but wonder, is this it? Will I never be able to live anywhere else because I’ve idealised life in Bali? Has the island ruined me for other places?

To be continued…

The post “how living in Bali ruined me” first appeared on Travel Cake.

Is there a place you can’t help but compare all the others too?

May 12, 2016
2014 Travel Summary

I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.

I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…

JANUARY…

SULAWESI- INDONESIA

I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.

Torajan funeral

tarsier

MALAYSIA

As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.

proud devotee

for the sake of devotion

the end of the pilgrimage

FEBRUARY…

BALI

As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…

last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)

MARCH…

HONG KONG

A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!

visiting Chinese temples

order after order of new flavours

MACAU

During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.

wide sunny boulevards

gamble paradise

APRIL…

BELGIUM

Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.

deliciously gross Belgian fare

a long time since I last saw spring

MAY…

ITALY

By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.

the red city seen from above

incredible food and wine in Bologna

JULY-AUGUST…

DRC

Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!

It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.

Congo’s stunning nature

safety first

kids in the village

crossing the Congo-Nile

UGANDA

On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.

buying goat brochettes from the bus window

Lake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele

RWANDA

Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.

sunset in Gisenyi

SEPTEMBER…

FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS

To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.

catching up in front of an old country house

clog boots

old fashioned fun

OCTOBER…

MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO

Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.

As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.

kids in Beirat, Albania

GREECE

I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.

Athens by night

wine tasting in the country side

NOVEMBER…

IRAN

Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!

Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.

inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahan

farmer in Kashan

out of this world rooftops

DECEMBER…

ECUADOR

The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.

What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…

on the look out for a new life in Ecuador

How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?

The post ‘2014 Travel Summary‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

January 5, 2015
Where to go in Bali – 10 Insider Tips

When I was living in Bali, my mailbox was flooded with e-mails from friends and acquaintances planning a trip to the island of gods, asking me which spots to hit. I probably should have written a standard answer to copy paste in every reply but just thinking about these places got me so excited, I didn’t mind carefully hand-picking the places that would suit my correspondents. Today, the same question continues to pop up regularly in my inbox and I’ve noticed I tend to recommend the same places on a loop. Anyone can open up a guide book or browse the internet for ‘things to do in Bali’, but these are the picks I recommend acquaintances, friends and readers.

Scooter trip Tirta Gangga to Amed & Bathing in Tirta Gangga’s holy water

Eastern Bali is an excellent area to drive around by scooter. The little roads lead you through picturesque villages and breathtaking landscapes. Somewhere in the midst of it all lies the ‘Tirta Gangga Water Palace’. Though the palace is alluring, it’s the soak in holy water that adds “pazzaz” to the scene. Spend the night in one of the charming guest houses in Tirta Gangga and visit the palace very early in the morning, before the day trippers arrive. There is something transcendental about taking a dip in a pool of sacred water surrounded by nothing else but sounds of nature awakening. From there drive to Amed and take in the natural beauty as well as scenes of rural Bali.

Tirta Gangga Water Palace

holy water pool

a divine feeling

view from my guesthouse

a ceremony on the way to Amed

Amed’s coast

Learn to dive in Tulamben

If you’re a seasoned diver, you might not love any of the dive spots in Bali. It’s just not the most impressive place to scuba. There are however, some beautiful submarine sites worth exploring.

Tulamben lends itself superbly as a place to get scuba certified. The fish and coral are both bountiful and colourful, there is excellent visibility and the water is warm. Right by the shore, at only a few meters depth lies a shipwreck in outstanding condition. It’s one of the few places where you have the opportunity to ship wreck dive as a beginner. Most of the dive spots are near the shore, so there’s no need to jump off a boat; you can just shuffle your way to the sea and gradually ease into deeper waters. Ideal for a nervous beginner. Not into diving? You can access some parts of the wreck by snorkelling too!

USAT Liberty Wreck (photo credits)

Exploring Jatiluwih rice terraces on foot

The rice terraces of Jatiluwih reflect the beauty of the Balinese agriculture. I drove to the UNESCO protected fields using the back roads and found myself at a non-official entrance. The only other people there were the occasional farmers working the land. Get got off the scooter/car and walk through the paddies of endless green. The further you walk, the less people and the better the experience.

cooking a batch of basmati rice, I never realising what beauty it came from

photo’s don’t even begin do it justice

Coffee, cloves and strawberries in Munduk

Anyone referring to Bali as an over-touristed hellhole, clearly hasn’t been to the Northern part of the island. In Munduk the air is cool and the soil is fertile. Perfect circumstances to cultivate coffee, strawberries and cloves. Munduk may be different from typical Balinese towns, nonetheless it’s not very memorable. It’s where the dutch held mountain retreats during colonial times to escape the Indonesian heat. That is still the main reason to head up there; a breath of fresh air, the hilly scenery, the waterfalls, the coffee plantations and eating strawberry covered everything -even pizza.

all what is good grows in Munduk

Gitgit water fall in Munduk

A Deep soul massage in Ubud

Ubud is a great hub to explore the verdant centre of the island. Base yourself here and enjoy all it has to offer: culture, art, spas, every type of yoga you can imagine, meditation, healing, delightful guest houses, organic restaurants catering to every allergy/food trend… Be warned, the town is extremely touristed. However it’s not too hard to get away from the over-commercialised areas and activities. As long as you know to expect a tiny but busy 10-street city, you won’t mind the crowed centre of Ubud too much. Let your hair down, join a yoga class, get a massage and a flower bath, eat an organic meal accompanied by a health shake and have a chat with locals. All the while wearing loose flowy pants and flipflop. Groovy?

spirituality everywhere you turn

yoga barn; the yoga supermarket

organic, locally produced, healthy food

Sunset in Pantai Suluban

Narrow steps in between cliffs bring you down to this tiny beach which disappears with high tide. The setting between the tall escarpment, the soft sand between your toes and unbelievably talented surfers riding impressive waves in the backdrop; It all comes together magnificently when the sun starts to sink in the sea. Strangely enough I didn’t carry my camera with me when I caught my favourite sunset in Bali! Perhaps that’s what made it even more enjoyable?

Suluban beach near Uluwatu (source)

Snorkelling with manta rays on Lembogan island

Nusa Lembongan is a small, tranquil island where you can truly spoil yourself. Be it with stylish yet affordable accommodation or with cliff hung spa’s overlooking the turquoise sea. Still, the best treat Lembongan has to offer is that of underwater splendour. Experienced divers may be able to encounter mola mola (giant moon fish) given the right season. But not all is reserved for divers. In fact all you need is a mask, a snorkel and a pair of fins. Try “drift snorkelling” where currents do the heavy paddling for you and carry you crossed the corals. Marvel at what looks like the worlds biggest aquarium drifting by and with you. The absolute highlight is snorkelling with 2 meter wide manta rays: so exhilarating!

R&R on Nusa Lembongan

not even the honeymoon suite

snorkelling with mantas. photo by Shawn Heinrichs

Beach Bumming on the Gili islands

Although technically not Bali but Lombok, the Gili islands are often visited as part of a trip to Bali. And they should. It’s THE place to be for the classic exotic beach vacation. No motorised vehicles, rustic shacks serving food and drinks, parties, beaches and all that goes with it. There are three Gili islands with very different personalities to chose from. Check out my Gili post to find out which one is right for you.

sandy Gili beach

Sunrise atop or at the foot of Mount Batur

Scaling Mt Batur to see the sun come up is one of the top attractions in Bali. Fit hikers can reach the summit (1717m) in a short two hour climb and can enjoy the sunrise from the top of an active volcano. However, I found that hanging around the slopes of Mt. Batur is just as pleasant. You can watch the sunrise from the foot of the volcano by the crater lake, have breakfast on its hillsides and bathe in the surrounding hot springs. Either way the Kintamani region promises a spectacular scenery.

watching sunrise over Batur’s craterlake with friends, leaving the hiking boots at home

volcanic hot springs near Mt.Batur

For the insane: ascending Mount Agung

As I mentioned above, the most popular volcano sunrise trek is on Mt. Batur. Let me just say this, from the top of Mt. Agung, Batur looks like a joke. Mt. Agung (3031 m) is the holiest place in Bali and although the Balinese tolerate foreigners ascending it, they themselves will not do so. It’s just that sacred. The climb starts around midnight and takes about 7 hours. From the top you have views over the entire island and you can even spot Lombok’s coastline and volcanoes. It’s a strenuous climb, to say the least and an even more taxing, somewhat dangerous descent. Pray for clear skies. If you’re looking for a physical challenge, this is it. I’ll admit it, I cried of desperation during this hike but I don’t regret doing it. Would I do it again? Nope!

For more “insane” activities in Bali, read my article “5 quirky things to do in Bali“.

thinking I’m almost at the top, I notice the pointy shadow telling me there’s still a long way to go

on top of Bali

Bali is packed with remarkable places, secret beaches, stunning temples, lush green valleys… So wherever you decide to go, there is no wrong answer. Except Kuta. Please, stay away from Kuta. It’s crowded, polluted, full of drunk teenagers, pimps and dealers. Mc Donalds, O’Neil and other chain companies rule the town. It’s the only part of Bali I really disliked.

One last tip: as you know by now, Bali is full of tourists, at times too full. I recommend you to visit the more popular sites as early in the morning as you possibly can. This is the only way to avoid the crowds and not return home pissed that you’ve seen too many -insert Western nationality. True, waking up at the crack of dawn is no pick-nick but if it means having ancient sites to yourself and the best lighting for photos, it’s 100% worth it! Don’t worry, there is always a quaint café nearby where you can take a nap later during the day.

unless this is your idea of a dream beach, stay away from Kuta

Which part of Bali have you enjoyed visiting or would you like to visit?

The post “Where to go in Bali – 10 insider tips” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 18, 2014
12 Favourite Destinations

It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.

I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”

“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.

In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.

With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.

While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…

So in no Particular order

1. Oman

I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.

wadi perfect for a dip

2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London

I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.

some amazing food in the area

3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali

This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic

rice fields around Ubud

4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe

As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.

sunset over the Zambezi

5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland

The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.

somewhere along the way

6. Living the island life in Zanzibar

I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.

Zanzibari fishing village

7. Morocco

Every time I go to Morocco I’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.

Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou

8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste

It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventure that made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.

coastline in Dili

9. Hiking Dominica

Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.

every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island

10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel

Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.

quiet streets of the old city

11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela

Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.

Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean

12. Bhaktapur, Nepal

Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!

Bhaktapur in the morning light

I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.

I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.

What are your 5 favourite destinations?

The post “12 Favourite Destinations” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 2, 2014
5 Quirky Things to do in Bali

There is a great misconception that Bali is just another tourist mecca full of beautiful clichés. Granted, there is a great deal of mass tourism, but there is so much more to it than that. Finding authenticity is a walk in the park and going off the beaten track is just as easy. Quirks are plentiful and one needn’t look far to find some. Besides the cultural oddities, there are tonnes of fun off-beat activities you can participate in. These are my favourite quirky things to do in Bali.

1. Mud wrestling under a full moon at the Green school

The greenest school on earth lies somewhere between rice fields and Balinese villages. Built entirely out of bamboo, the Green School boasts an endangered bird rehabilitation program, an organic vegetable garden grown by its students, an enormous crystal radiating positive energy on the playground, a natural swimming pool and… a mud pit. Students, teachers and visitors regularly engage in playful mud wrestling tournaments. Several times a year, a “Mepantigan full moon performance” is held on the school grounds. Mepantigan is a traditional act combining Balinese martial art, fire dance, drama and music. Those who don’t mind getting their clothes dirty, can join the mud fun after the performance.

playing in the mud. Mind the school’s horse in the background. Photo by Ana Baranova

Even if you’re not lucky enough to be in town during the mud fight, I recommend visiting the Green School anyway. A sustainable international school running on solar energy with “a vision of a natural, holistic, student-centered learning environment that empowers and inspires its students to be creative, innovative, green leaders.” A school so incredibly cool, you’d want to turn into a kid just to attend. Visit their website to find out more or to book a tour.

we could all learn something at the green school

2. Party hard… and sober on a Sunday morning

Every Sunday, Ubud’s most popular yoga spot organises a smashing Sunday Dance. Starting at 11AM, expats, locals and visitors come together to party like there is no tomorrow. People let go and let lose, moving their bodies to the music in which ever way they feel like, expressing themselves through movement. There is screaming, crying, laughter, sweaty hugs, glitter… Anything goes. There is only one rule: no talking. As the dance progresses, the music gets more intense and the dancers feed on each other’s energies. Unbelievably powerful! I’ve added this to the list of quirky things because, if you only ever danced in amongst a crowd at a club or at a party and preferably in slightly intoxicated condition, your first minutes there can feel quite awkward and bizarre. As soon as you realise nobody is there to observe or judge, you loose your inhibitions naturally. Put on a smile, dance and spend the rest of your day on cloud nine.

good vibes on Sunday morning

3. Laugh your head off during a laughing yoga session

Laughter strengthens your immune system, boosts your energy, diminishes pain and protects you from the damaging effects of stress. This is the mantra that inspires the biweekly laughing yoga gatherings in Ambar Ashram. Imagine a grass field covered with 100 Balinese on a yoga mat, laughing themselves silly. Doesn’t that sound like the place to be?! Even though it’s a local activity and the spoken language is Indonesian, foreigners are more than welcome… Laughter knows no language. There’s more to the class than laughter, but I don’t want to reveal any spoilers. Classes are free and last an hour. Bring a yoga mat if you have one and leave with a relaxed mind and body!

After laughing yoga with Peter

laughing it out

4. Sip on fancy ‘cat poop coffee’

I haven’t gone mad, I consciously wrote “cat poop coffee”. That’s right, Kopi Luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world, is actually “civet cat poop coffee”. Some explanation… As night falls, wild civets roam around the “Luwak “coffee plantations to feed on the plants’ best coffee beans. The civets having partially digested the beans, excrement them around the plantation. The farmers then search for and pick up the stools. Once dry, the remaining beans are picked out by hand, then peeled and roasted. The result: world’s most exclusive coffee. “Is it any good?”, you want know… Well I’ve heard mixed reviews: some find it exquisite, others find it too bland. It’s not a coffee that will have you bouncing off the walls, but I enjoyed its mildness. It definitely doesn’t taste as gross as the title could have you thinking, but I’m not sure it’s worth the €6/100gr to me.

coffee eating civet, sadly encaged as a show piece for tourists

dried civet feces

kopi luwak- cat poop coffee

5. For women only: enjoy a steam sauna… for your most intimate organ

This one actually originates from a traditional Javanese beauty and bridal ritual. I’ll keep the story short. Just before marriage or after giving birth, Javanese women undergo a cleansing ritual. Only wearing a sarong, the women are seated on a chair with a hole. In that hole lies a clay plot with heated charcoal and herbs creating rising fog which “cleans” the women’s private parts. This procedure called “ratus”, is also practiced in Bali and is available in local spa’s. You don’t need to be a bride to enjoy the Javanese beauty secret. Now every adventurous woman can give it a go. It takes about 45minutes and in some modern spa’s you will get a shoulder massage while you get “steamed”. My ratus experience was a very pleasant one. After feelings of awkwardness sitting half-naked on a smoking chair, came relaxation and bliss. I felt rejuvenated and fresh. To be repeated! I underwent the treatment at Midas Spa in Ubud.

get the picture?

These are just a few of the unusual things to do in Bali. Plenty more to discover throughout the island and the entire country!

Which one of these quirks would you attempt?

The post “5 Quirky Things to do in Bali first appeared” on Travel Cake.

April 2, 2014
2013 Travel Summary, Part II

Resuming the travel summary of 2013, the nomadic year… Read part I here.

JULY… Timor-Leste- Gili islands

If you have to leave Bali for a few days, where do you go? Ummm… Timor-Leste? Why not… Practical information online about Timor-Leste is scarce, so I left without any expectations. That might be why I loved it so much. If not because I have a tendency towards raw and unknown places. I enjoyed the fact that it was a trip for “advanced” travellers , I had plenty of new experiences- like eating dog and I met some awesome people. Another destination on my top 10 best trips-list!

stunning landscapes

socialising with the Timorese

Gili islands

Douglas and I took a few days off to meet-up with friends from England vacationing in the Gili islands. I made it a point to visit all three of the islands so I could compare and decide which one to choose for future trips! Read about my findings here. We spent lazy days on the beach, eating freshly caught fish, drinking beers and snorkelling with turtles. It was the ideal lazy beach holiday.

lazy days

happy island kids

AUGUST… Borneo

I spent the last week of August in Sabah, Borneo. You might not believe it, but traveling around so much can get quite tiring. So I did what any burnt out traveler would do; I traveled lazily! I got massages, relaxed at white sand beaches, ate tonnes of fresh seafood, did mountain hikes, saw orang utans in the wild… Finally, I visited a refugee village on stilts, but that story deserves its own post. By the end of my stay in Kota Kinabalu, I had gotten quite a attached to the place. A place which seemed incredibly bland at first glance.

village on stilts

wild orang utang

SEPTEMBER… The Philippines

I had a travel dream. It took me 13 years to make it happen, but at last… I went to the Philippines… and I was not disappointed. I spent most of my time there in Palawan. Every single day, my dear Douglas had to listen to me say: “Look at this!! How is this possible?? I can’t believe this beauty is real?!”

island hopping

driving in the country side

The Philippines are really close to my heart, not only because I loved everything about this flavourful country; the good, the bad and the ugly. But also because of my Pinoy friends who have shown me the true spirit of the Philipino community. If you’ve missed my posts resuming our vacation in Palawan, check out part I and part II.

paradise beaches

Oh yes… and Manila is absolutely wacky!

OCTOBER… Home sweet home, Bali

Peace and quiet in Bali. For the first time in months I spent a full 4 weeks in the same spot. I used this time to explore the island further. I went on diving and snorkelling trips with friends in Lembongan and swam with graciously beautiful wild manta rays. I started practicing yoga and participated in a writing workshop during the Ubud writers festival. I woke up at the crack of dawn to visit Balinese temples minus the tourists. I wanted to learn Indonesian, so I enrolled in a class and finished the course. Now, I’m not fluent, but I can hold my head up high while having a basic conversation. I also know a fair amount of obscene words. What more do you need?

visiting temples

immersing ourselves in the culture

NOVEMBER… Vietnam

Once again I had to leave Indonesia. This time around, I visited South Vietnam on a quest to understand why so many visitors dislike it as a destination. Though I understand why, I only experienced rainbows, sparkles and chocolate covered kittens. I was taken aback by a fragrant cuisine that was new to me. Vietnamese food… WOW! Read about my trip here.

Mui Ne beach front

Vietnamese food

DECEMBER… Sulawesi

I’m writing you from Sulawesi, Indonesia where a couple of friends and I will be celebrating the end of a fantastic year and welcoming a new one. Hopefully a new year filled with laughter, friendship, love, adventure and realisation of goals and dreams. Those are my wishes or you.

Happy New Year, Everyone!

What was the travel highlight of your year?

December 30, 2013
What it’s like to live in Ubud, Bali

I’ve been asked the question dozens of times: “what does your life in Bali look like?” I always answer with a detailed description of Ubud, the beautiful spiritual and artsy town we live in. Either I’m not finding descriptive enough words or words just don’t cut it; the reply usually says: “I still don’t really know what you’re doing there, but you sound happy.”

I guess sometimes, you really need more graphic illustrations…

rice fields around Ubud

We live in a house surrounded by a lush tropical garden where flowers and fruits grow freely.

frangipani, bugainvillea, aloe vera and orchids in the garden

pineapple

banana’s

daily dose of Balinese passion fruit from our garden

It’s cheaper to eat at a local restaurant then to cook your food at home. Since most of the restaurant food is organic and freshly prepared, we eat out most of the time.

gluten free vegetarian burrito

fruit salad with yogurt

tofu and brown rice salad

“healthy” treats

Even though the food is healthy, there are a lot of treats to indulge on; shakes, baked goods, pizza, ice cream, delicious chocolate- approved by Belgians. I try to stay active to minimise the damage. Jogging, dancing and yoga help.

fantastic pizza

We work comfortably from home, every day of the week unless we don’t feel like it; that’s when we “do weekend”.

my office…

The town is quite small and you could walk everywhere, but it gets so hot sometimes, walking is not an options- unless you don’t mind arriving at you destination drenched in sweat. We prefer to drive a scooter.

driving down our car free street

the gas station

Besides work, I’ve been learning Indonesian and taking yoga classes.

Indonesian class

Every now and then, I treat myself to a fancy coffee or a spa treatment.

Sunday capuccino

hot springs

We spend our evenings and weekends pretty much in the same way we used to in Europe: concerts, talks, parties and outings with friends… Only the setting is a little more exotic.

BBQ with friends

dancing at a concert

brunch

a day at the beach

Ubud is an artsy town. Balinese as well as foreigners inspire and get inspired to create.

Blanco museum

anyone can be an artist

The Balinese are very spiritual. They honour their gods with daily rituals and offerings containing food (often rice), flowers, coffee, cigarettes… and incense. Every minute of the day, somewhere there is a stick of incense burning and filling the air with a mystic aroma of frangipani and sandalwood. It leaves you sighing: “Ah… Bali…”

ready for the royal cremation

ceremony

offerings everywhere all the time

A growing New Age community has settled down in Ubud. There are holistic healing centres, energy readings, tantric workshops, Tibetan bowl meditation sessions, energy crystal shops, Kirtan chanting, vegetarian-vegan-raw restaurants. Now, I have an open mind about exploring spirituality and every now and then I join the party, but I must admit I’ve been stunned more than once by some of the methods I hear about in the “neo hippie” community.

event posters

Of course there are some down sides of living in Ubud. Like the construction everywhere, all the time. The traffic jams. The fact that the centre is super touristy-in a cheesy kind of way. The fact that every time I walk down the street, I get at least 10 “taxi maybe?”’s. Just to name a few. That being said, I love living in Ubud and I gladly accept the negatives.

ducks and rice fields

Have you ever lived abroad? Would you like to?

The post “What it’s like to live in Ubud, Bali” first appeared on Travel Cake.

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December 23, 2013