Tag: Backpacking

  • Things you might want to know before going to Rwanda

    Things you might want to know before going to Rwanda

    Rwanda is tiny African country sandwiched between some of East and Central Africa’s biggest: Uganda, Tanzania and The Congo. Its landlocked position, recent turbulent past and small size could be reason to question its tourism potential.

    Having lived in Rwanda during my childhood and remembering the places we’d visit during the weekends and holidays, I could only regard Rwanda as a fantastic tourist destination. However, when I returned to Rwanda two weeks ago, I saw the country in a different light. I was no longer the expat getting the most out of my country of residence: this time around I was just a simple visitor. The country has changed so much since I left in ’94, so I got to reevaluate it completely, almost as if it was my first time there.

    visiting my primary school
    visiting my primary school

    Although I enjoyed my stay in Rwanda, I heard many travellers complain about theirs. Most of them were let down because the country didn’t meet their expectations. Their disappointment led me to reflect on some of the things to anticipate when you’re considering to put Rwanda on your travel itinerary.

     

    It’s expensive

    Well, at least compared to neighbouring Uganda and Tanzania. Everything is more pricey: transportation, food, drinks, safaris, activities… Especially hotel costs will eat away at your budget. To give you an idea, we were charged about €23 to sleep in a standard tent- breakfast not included. A budget private double room cost about €40 per night. Cheaper rooms aren’t hard to come by, but it usually translates to sleeping in a stuffy, windowless closet. You can easily get around on a tighter budget if you’re prepared to rough it. Either way, in terms of value for money, Rwanda just doesn’t deliver.

    from our expensive tent
    from our expensive tent

     

    Rules are rules and you will respect them

    Rwanda has implemented strict rules and regulations which people follow well. For example, it’s the first non-Western country where I’ve seen motorcycle taxi drivers consistently wearing protective helmets and carrying around a second one for their passengers. The driver will not accept a passenger if he/she does not wear the helmet. Believe me, I’ve tried. The Rwandese seem to respect the new laws which minimises chaos and disorder throughout the country.

    helmets are mandatory
    helmets are mandatory

     

    It’s modern and well organised

    Especially in the capital Kigali. There are street signs, a movie theatre, several coffeehouse franchises, wi-fi everywhere, taxis look new, the streets are clean and alined with tall flowery trees, there are side walks… Buses run on time and are filled to capacity- as opposed to double or triple in Uganda. This is less the case in rural areas and smaller cities but even so, it’s still relatively modern and organised.

    Kigali city tower
    Kigali city tower
    most establishments have decent wifi
    most establishments have decent wi-fi and 3G network works well

     

    It’s quite safe- even after dark

    There are many areas with street lighting in the cities and it’s not odd to see an expat jogging after sunset. That says a lot about safety if you ask me.

     

    Non-biodegradable plastic bags are banned

    They’re downright illegal. Upon arrival in the country, visitors’ luggages are checked for plastic bags. Anyone caught in the country using a plastic bag can get fined up to 150$. Store owners stocking them face one year of prison. It’s a harsh law but an effective one; you won’t see mountains of rubbish as you would in other African capitals. Rwanda is striving to become the world’s first plastic-free nation. A part from the thriving underground trade in plastic bags, it’s going in the right direction.

     

    The roads are windy but in excellent condition

    I would even say they are better than the ones in Belgium, Rwanda’s ex-metropole. Once you get off the beaten track standards drop but they remain OK. Driving a rental car should not be a problem unless you have a serious fear of heights. The road’s windiness can get to your stomach so if you’re prone to motion sickness, don’t forget to bring your pills.

    well maintained, exotic roads
    well maintained, exotic roads

     

    There is a strange language situation

    English has only been an official language in Rwanda since 1994 and only in 2008 was the entire education system switched from French to English. French is still an official language alongside Kinyarwanda. It makes communication confusing; some people only know English -mostly in Kigali, others only know French and people with very little education only speak Kinyarwanda. As an English and French speaker, I found it awkward to start every single conversation guessing which language to use, mostly choosing the wrong one first.

     

    So, is Rwanda a good travel destination or should you skip it? 

    The disappointed travellers I spoke to were looking for something Rwanda is not. They were looking for the raw, authentic, traditional Africa. They found Rwanda too clean, too sterile, too modern and to Westernised. Although these things are true, I found it rather refreshing to see a different Africa! A progressive Africa that is quickly moving forward, that is considerate towards the environment, that values expression through art, where thing are going well- at least on the surface.

    end

    That being said, I wouldn’t recommend it as a main destination for travellers looking for an essential Africa experience. It’s worth a detour when you’re in the area for example in combination with a trip to Uganda or Tanzania. If your trip is all about having a “gorillas in the mist” moment, then Rwanda is a must yet I’d still advise to add an extra destination to the trip.

     

    Have you ever though of Rwanda as a destination? Africa in general?

    The post “Things you need might want to know before going to Rwanda” first appeared on Travel Cake

  • Cappadocia on a Budget

    Cappadocia on a Budget

    Desperately needing to spend some time in nature and to get a dose of exoticism, I set off to Turkey. My budget was rather tight, but according to my research, I wouldn’t be needing much spending money in Turkey’s easternmost province, near the border with Iran. Perfect, I thought…

    As I arrived in Istanbul, I found out that unfortunately, recent political turmoil had turned the area I wanted to visit into a temporary ‘no-go zone’. I seriously considered persevering my trip despite the issues, but the travel agent almost refused to sell me a bus ticket and insisted I change plans. Eventually, the flexible and sensible traveller in me arose and I decided to go to Cappadocia instead.

    Cappadocia, historical region in central Turkey
    Cappadocia, historical region in central Turkey

     

    Cappadocia being one of the most popular areas in Turkey, I knew it would be trickier with my small budget. Since I managed to stay within budget, I thought I’d share some of the tricks that could allow you to have a cheap Cappadocia trip.

    1. The classic: take the overnight bus to get there

    Obviously, it saves you a night at the hotel. Taking the long distance bus from Istanbul to Göreme, the “hub” in Cappadocia, is like flying business class. Think wide reclinable seats with lots of leg space, a complementary blanket and a personal screen displaying movies- in Turkish. During the ride, a “bus attendant” strides through the vehicle’s aisle serving drinks/snacks and makes sure the bus is always tidy. The downside: there’s a toilet/smoke break every hour or so and all lights are turned on at each stop. So, maybe not the best night of sleep.

    2. Walk to enjoy the magical landscapes

    There are plenty of tours designed to show you the area, but honestly, you can do without. Just pick up a map and start walking. One of the tours might be worth paying for (the Green Tour) as the attractions are spread out over a large area. However, taking this tour reminded me how much I hate group tours. Important: if you don’t take any kind of tour, make sure you read up on the history of the area. It’s fascinating!

    easy to find your way
    easy to find your way
    the love valley
    the love valley
    visiting preserved church murals with green tour
    visiting 11th century murals with green tour

     

    3. Hitchhike

    You might be discouraged to go for a long walk because that would also mean a long hike back to town. However, people in the area are generally open to hitchhikers and chances are you’ll get picked up by the first car/truck with an open seat.

    waiting for a ride...
    waiting for a ride…

     

    4. Lodge in a cave

    Not only is it part of the whole Cappadocia experience, it can also be very affordable. Many of the cave houses have been transformed into home stays and pensions. You can easily find an inexpensive dorm room (+- €7, at the time of writing) in a cave hotel with swimming pool. Most of these places additionally offer a generous breakfast buffet, leaving you full until the afternoon.

    unusual place to stay
    feeling like the Flinstones
    not bad for a hostel...
    not bad for a hostel…

     

    5. It’s OK to skip the hot air balloon flight

    It seems as though every single visitor to the region embarks in a hot air balloon during their visits… “an essential Cappadocia experience”. Admittedly, it’s probably gorgeous, memorable and what not. But with prices starting at €120 for a one hour flight in a crammed basket, the budget traveller starts to doubt… That’s food for a week! A great alternative is to wake up at dawn and watch the balloons float through the morning sky. Dozens of balloons amongst the fairy chimneys. Stunning! At no point did I wish to be inside a balloon… This view was just perfect -and free.

    the town at dawn
    the town at dawn
    sunrise, hot air balloons and a new friend...priceless
    sunrise, hot air balloons and a new friend…priceless

     

    6. Cappadocian wine tasting

    Wait, what is wine tasting doing on a “budget tip” list? First of all because… Turkish wine? Who knew?! That’s just an exciting must-try! Regardless of your budget. Second, a glass of Cappadocian wine is moderately priced and -in my humble opinion- not that great (yet?), so you’re not likely to go for seconds. Still worth a taste!

    wine tasting along the way
    wine tasting along the way

     

    7. Skip the Hammam

    The Hammam in Göreme is pricey. Unless that’s where you want to splurge, I suggest you hold that experience for a larger city in Turkey.

    8. Relax and Enjoy the silence 

    Although you’re in a touristy area, it’s still a quiet environment. Order a pot of tea and do some people watching or read that book you’ve been carrying around… Savour the peace and quite while soaking in the surroundings. This is probably my favourite thing about traveling on a budget: the monetary restrictions force you to spend at least one day not spending and consuming but slowing down and enjoying the beautiful, small things in this world.

    TEA ON A TERRACE
    customary tulip tea glass
    in silence
    in silence

     

    9. Donate a strand of hair to win a trip back to Cappadocia

    There is a tiny ‘hair museum’ in the town of Avanos. It’s basically a cave with over 16.000 hair strands hanging from the walls and ceiling. Female visitors from all over the world donate a lock of hair to which their names and address is adhered. Twice a year, Mr. Galip, potter and owner of the museum, picks a lucky winner to return to Cappadocia and learn the art of pottery, all expenses paid. He has not mailed me yet. Entrance to the museum is free.

    walls of hair
    walls of hair (photo credits)

     

    Have you been to Cappadocia? 

    The post “Cappadocia on a budget” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • 8 Days in South Vietnam

    8 Days in South Vietnam

    My trip to Vietnam was somewhat of a failed mission. Over the past few years, I have heard so many negative stories about the country and the hospitality of its people. I had heard about absurd scams, aggressive vendors, rigged taxi meters…

    The large majority of Vietnam travelers I met, told me horror stories and/or found it the least likable country in Southeast Asia. Then I found out Vietnam had a returning rate of only  5% where as in Thailand for example, the returning rate is 50%.

    What gives? I wanted to experience this first hand, to understand. I was ready to face the madness and let my overly assertive alter ego scream back at anyone scolding me for not buying their goods. I wanted to scam the scammer. So I flew to Saigon, eyes wide open to spot the scams, claws out, ready to scratch back.

    So what did I find? Nothing of such sorts. I didn’t get scammed, mugged, scolded nor pushed into doing something against my will.

    What I found were friendly people who, as opposed to neighboring countries, do a lot less “ass kissing” towards the tourist. I found this attitude rather refreshing, much more natural.

    My “mission” didn’t fail entirely; the trip did allow me to get some insights on why so many people have negative experiences in Vietnam. But that should be a blog post on its own.

    Meanwhile, I had a “jolly good time” in South Vietnam.

     

    Here is how I spent my 8 days in South Vietnam

     

    Drinking Vietnamese white coffee

    Strong black coffee with condensed milk and ice. I wouldn’t normally go for it, but I had no idea what I was ordering. I guess I was just intrigued by the name. Wow! I was immediately hooked and had a least two white coffees a day, every day.

    white Vietnamese coffee
    white Vietnamese coffee, an intense pick-me up

     

    Strolling around the old quarter of Hoi An in the evening

    Brightly lit lanterns, motor free streets, wishing candles by the river… Even without a love interest around, the streets scream ‘romance’ and had me daydreaming the following days.

    lanterns vietnam
    lanterns
    Hoi An by night
    Hoi An by night

     

    Admiring colourful dilapidated walls

    It took my travel partner a short while to understand my fascination with these walls, but in the end she was enthusiastically pointing out these alluring walls to me. “Have you seen that one? What a beauty…”

     

    Contemplating a meal at every street corner

    It’s clear that Vietnamese love to eat and preferably do so on the streets. Every other corner, I was greeted by the mouthwatering smells of a steaming bowl of food. All I needed to do was grab one of the tiny chairs, join the locals and dig in. I tried to restrain myself as often as possible, but… They say you should have 5 meals a day, right?

    street stall, vietnam
    street stall
    street dining
    street dining
    puppies love street food
    puppies love street food

     

    Getting lost in Hoi An’s tiny streets

    Of course I didn’t have a map. And I loved it.

    narrow streets vietnam
    narrow streets

     

    Waking up at the crack of dawn to visit the hustle and bustle of the morning markets

    market vietnam
    surprising popularity of the conical hats
    fresh herbs vietnam market
    fresh herbs used royally in every dish
     duck market
    “I love the smell of duck and nicotine in the morning…”
    ducklings
    the one that got away

     

    Being in awe of the dramatic landscape changes

    From the mountainous greenery to flooded rice fields to quiet beaches to… Impressive sand dunes and red dirt! I couldn’t have suspected I was still in Vietnam. Unfortunately, the dunes were partially ruined by mass tourism. Standing among the tall yellow dunes could have been -and probably once was- a mind boggling experience. But the dozens of deafening quads zooming by killed the marvel. The dunes of Mui Né are still worth a visit though.

     coastal village vietnam
    from coastal villages…
    sand dunes vietnam
    …to sand dunes covered in quad tracks

     

    Discovering a new kind of stress free work ethic

    no stress
    no clients? no stress!
    fruit stall napping
    fruit stall napping
    taking a break from work
    taking a break from work
     hammock vietnam
    “I’ll be in my hammock, if you need anything”

     

    Exploring the Mekong delta by boat and by bicycle

    float on Mekong
    an easy float on the Mekong
    Mekong by bicycle
    Mekong by bicycle

     

    Indulging in Vietnamese cuisine in Saigon

    I met up with a “foodie friend” of mine who has been living in Saigon for ten years. She took me from one incredible restaurant to the next, sampling Vietnamese cuisine, one dish at the time. Vietnamese food was new to me and was an incredible revelation. It tickled my taste buds and I’m hungry for more.

    food Saigon
    food sampling in Saigon

     

    Downing shots of “cobra eats scorpion” liquor

    You read that right. Strong alcohol infused with a dead cobra and scorpion. To make the drink more spectacular, the scorpion’s tail is inserted into the cobra’s mouth. Way more impressive! It tasted like rotting fish eaten out of the stomach of an alcoholic. I paid a heavy price for my curiosity; hours on the loo with severe cramps.

    snake cobra infused liquor
    “cobra bites scorpion” infused liquor

     

    Having sandals custom made

    As it turns out, it’s not simple to chose a design, material and colour. Hats off to designers out there! After nervous contemplation I put together the elements resulting in some very cute sandals. The shoe maker drew around the soles of my feet and measured each foot individually. Fifteen dollars bought me a pair of sandals that fit me like a glove. However, with the shoe being made in only a couple of hours, I wasn’t surprised to get footwear of dubious quality.

    hoi an shopping
    existing models to chose from and customize

     

    Trying a new and exciting kind of “exotic meat”

    After my dog story in East-Timor, you might be aware of the fact that I love trying unusual foods. So when I got this new opportunity, I seized it with both hands. I must admit, I had doubts about this one, I even had to sleep on it. Once again, my curiosity got the better of me and I ordered a portion. It was simply delicious! What it was? I’ll tell you some day.

    the mystery meat
    the mystery meat

     

    Have you been to Vietnam? Is it on your bucket list?

     The post “8 days in South Vietnam” first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • Backpacking in Africa? Yes you can!

    Backpacking in Africa? Yes you can!

    First of all let me clarify that by Africa, I mean the sub-Saharan continent. It’s quite different from travel in North Africa which has a different set of “rules” to play by.

    “I’d love to go to Africa some day, but I’m afraid it’s unsafe, too expensive and too difficult to get around. Can you really travel around as a backpacker?” That’s a question I’m often asked.

    My answer is YES YOU CAN! -and it’s fantastic!

    There seems to be general apprehensiveness amongst travellers when it comes to traveling in Africa. It’s a shame because ‘the dark continent’ is most definitely accessible. True, it’s not the easiest area to travel in -especially if you compare it with South East Asia- but it’s still very doable even for the unexperienced traveller. Budget-wise, you can make your trip very affordable if you don’t mind the occasional bucket shower and can handle a few rough edges.

     bucket shower
    upgraded bucket shower with a view

     

    There are however, a couple of things to keep in mind before you start planning:

    1. Realise that Africa is huge.  Depending on how much time you have, pick one or two neighbouring countries to explore. 

    2. It’s essential that you choose the “right country” for you. Intrepid travellers could try places like Sudan, Mozambique, Malawi, Djibouti or any country that’s more or less politically stable. I would recommend beginners to start off with ‘easier’ countries that offer a minimum of tourist infrastructure. Places where you will meet plenty of other travellers and expats to exchange travel tips and ideas with.

    Ghana, Senegal or Gambia are good options for West Africa. So are Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia or Kenya in Eastern Africa. In Southern Africa consider Zimbabwe or Botswana. All of these countries allow you to travel around effortlessly by public transportation, lodge in hostels or homestays and they offer Western food options which come in handy when you’re tired of the African staples.

    Though South Africa is a possibility as well, I wouldn’t classify it as a typical African country in terms of tourism as it has an endless array of travel possibilities for the visitor and is so modernly developed you could think you’re in Europe of the States.

    3. Take into account that you’re looking at slow travel here.  It’s quite common for buses, trains and boats to run late. When I say late, I’m not talking about the “crazy” 20 minutes we complain about in the West, but rather 5+ hours. Your vehicle may break down in the middle of nowhere or it  may get stuck in a pothole at some point… This means your arrival time can ( and probably will ) get delayed -at least once during your trip. In other words, having a tight schedule is simply not an option.

    stuck in the mud
    stuck in the mud

     

    4. The larger the region you want to explore, the more time you will spend on the road. Expect long hours in buses, boats, trains and minivans. Most of which won’t be the most comfortable rides you’ll have in your life. In your average African country, a 5 seat sedan fits 14. Easily. Sometimes you feel like you’re playing human Tetris.

    Backpacking africa
    4 people in the front, 10 in the back

     

    5. Africa is not a place where you visit one attraction after the other as you probably would in Europe or Asia. It’s a place you experience by interacting with locals and taking your time to be somewhere without too much of an agenda. Spend several days in the same town to really get the vibe.

    Backpacking africa
    getting my hands dirty in the local kitchen

     

    6. The food won’t always be all that. There are non-African dining alternatives especially in big towns and cities, but in most smaller towns you’ll be served the local staples. For truly delicious African food, make sure you score yourself an invitation to a wedding, birthday party, christening or any kind of celebration. That’s when all the mama’s show off their cooking skills. 

    Backpacking africa food
    not so amazing
    Backpacking africa
    no need to rough it to this degree either,unless you want to
    the best sushi I've ever had was in Tanzania
    the best sushi I’ve ever had was in Tanzania

     

    7. The accommodation can get quite shabby at times. Unless you’re in a city or large town, there’s not always a midrange option. Often it’s either cheap and crummy or high-end luxury. Go for the cheap places and treat yourself every now and then with a more upscale stay, if your budget allows it.

    Backpacking africa
    upscale hotel with view on the national park

     

    8. Whether you’re backpacking or not, safari’s are always an expensive affair. If that is something you want to do, keep a separate budget just for your safari. To give you an idea, at the time of writing the cost for a 2D/1N camping safari in Serengeti NP, Tanzania was $300 per person. And this was a decent deal with a local agent. There are cheaper safari’s available if you stay away from the most renowned parks.

    safari, Backpacking africa
    safari

     

    9. There are relatively few solo travellers in Africa so I would suggest you find yourself an awesome travel partner before leaving. Even though you could smoothly journey solo, you will have a better time traveling in pairs. Especially for women. You’ll feel more comfortable, it will dramatically cut the costs and it’s usually more fun when you have someone to talk to while you wait around for *insert anything*.

     waiting for a boat
    having fun while waiting for a boat

     

    Traveling in Africa is very rewarding; it lifts your spirits and opens your eyes to some important issues the media hardly ever talk about. There are so many unspoilt spots that simply take your breath away. People are generally welcoming and excited to have a conversation with you. Let yourself get swooped off your feet by the laughter and rhythm in the air. If you’re still doubting whether or not you should backpack in Africa, all I can say, is DO IT! The adventure awaits!

    Backpacking africa
    backpackers race

     

    Have you ever backpacked in Africa? Would you give it a try?

    The post “Backpacking in Africa? Yes you can!‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.