I was never a big hiker until I undertook a multi-day trek in Nepal a few years ago. While I still can’t really claim to be a hardcore hiker, I do take time for hikes a lot more often now. The distances, the physical challenge and the long hours don’t scare me anymore… In fact, it’s now what I’m drawn to!
Ten years ago, when I visited Colombia, I spent the little time I had in the country visiting my local friends instead of visiting the country. Though I never regretted that decision, I was bummed to have missed out on what seemed like one of Colombia’s highlights: the Cocora valley. “I’ll just have to come back one day” I said…
And come back I did! Ten years later, I finally had the chance to visit the Cocora valley in Colombia! What was even better, this time around I was actually into hiking!
This hike was not only a highlight in Colombia for me, it was one of my favourites of all times. Not too long, not too strenuous and full of gorgeous and unique views.
We headed to the town of Salento, the hub for hikes in the valley. I found the town itself to be very touristy but extremely charming. We spent our first day in Salento wandering around, walking in and out of little boutiques, eating tasty dishes and drinking incredible coffee, straight from the source.
Colombian coffee on the side of the roadtaking multiple food breaks a day…
The next day we woke up shortly after dawn to start our hike. From the town square, a bunch of jeeps were waiting to bring hikers to the valley. The ride to the valley in itself was absolutely stunning! I would have loved to walk there like some people did, but I figured walking those extra kilometres would be pushing it. Besides, a ride hanging from the back of a willy jeep seemed so much cooler!
the jeep to Cocora
Because it had been raining the days before our arrival, we rented some rubber boots from a kiosk at the beginning of the trail. They turned out not to be necessary but I was happy I could walk freely, jump into mud pools and cross small creeks without a second thought.
getting the most out of my rubber boots
The scenery kept changing as our hike progressed. From farms, to jungle, over hanging bridges, through flower fields…
farmer on his way to his fincafarmsmud puddles in the morning lightin the woods…over the bridgeshigh altitude flowers
Finally we arrived in an exotic fairy tale setting…
hello wax palms!enjoying the unique view
The tall wax palms skyline. Just incredible!
I could have stayed for hours!
I never really understood how it was possible that we didn’t see any of the other hiker during our whole time in the valley. Especially because we started out with so many. We did the somewhat shorter version of the hike, skipping the hummingbird station, Acaime. No regrets here as we saw lots of humming birds on the way.
a dream come true
A word of advice for anyone thinking about doing this hike, leave as early in the morning as possible. You’ll have magical morning light to start your hike with, you’ll be less likely to get caught in the rain (it often comes down pouring the afternoon) and you’ll avoid the crowds. Just check when the first jeeps leave and make sure you catch one. It’s a half day hike so don’t forget to bring water and some snacks!
Did you know about the Cocora Valley? Would you put it on your bucket list?
As I previously mentioned in my post on backpacking in Africa, travelling in that part of the world can add up to be quite pricey. But with a little imagination and a sense of adventure you can travel/backpack in Africa on a relatively low budget. Of course, it will never be as low as India, Nepal or South East Asia but still cheap enough that anyone could afford it.
One of the African destinations that lends itself perfectly for an interesting, budget friendly Africa vacation is Uganda. I’ve visited the country twice, both times as a backpacker using public transportation.
This is what our budget backpack trip in Uganda looked like:
COUCHSURFING IN KAMPALA
I’ve quite often used Couch Surfing in my “travelling career”; both as the guest and as the host. When I Couch Surf, I usually do so in big cities as they can be quite overwhelming when you first arrive and I prefer experiencing sprawling urban area’s through the eyes of a local or expat instead of following a guide book.
As it usually goes with CS, you don’t always know where you will end up. We were in luck in Kampala and stayed with an awesome expat in one of the city’s fanciest areas, Kololo. Our host took us to his favourite spots in town where we chatted and laughed over some cool beers and fresh tilapia.
spending the night in a stylish loft with a view over Kampalaweekend at one of Kampala’s lake side beaches with beers and new friends
On the second trip, I stayed in a quaint hostel (ICU guesthouse, dorm 15$) on the edge of town where many semi-long term volunteers reside. Alternatively you could stay at Red Chili Hideway, it’s also outside of town but with a swimming pool and a free daily shuttle to the city centre. Red Chili offers a good deal on trips to Murchison Falls as well.
EATING ROLEX AND OTHER STREET FOOD
When on a budget, street food is the way to go. In Uganda, you’ll find grilled kebabs and barbecued bananas/corn -to name a few- sizzling on every street corner. The most popular (and in my opinion most tasty) street side snack are rolex (comes from ‘roll eggs’): a tomato-onion-paprika omelette rolled onto a freshly baked chapati. One would really have to have two left hands to mess this snack up! We’d eat rolex from the street almost every day for lunch and it never disappointed.
getting rolex by the lake, a shocking sight for Ugandans as rolex is considered a snack for the poor. Some find it hard to understand why a “rich” tourist would choose to eat rolex.the smell of the grilling meat is often much better than the quality of the pieces on your stick, unless you like bouncy, chewy meat …I know these deep fried grasshoppers don’t look particularly appealing, but they’re delicious! Like a cross between salted nuts and potato crisps. Anyways, they’re much cheaper than the ones you get in trendy restaurants in the West nowadays!
SAFARI’S AND HIKES IN QUEEN ELISABETH NATIONAL PARK
Just having just crossed the border form DRC (that’s a story for another post) we were in desperate need for some luxury and internet. So we threw our budget out of the window (for a day) and checked into a higher end lodge. Considering most lodges in and around the African national parks often have rates starting at €250 per night, this lodge – Kingfisher Lodge Kichwamba- was a bargain at €160 a night, breakfast and dinner included for both of us!
Disclaimer: these were the rates in 2011, converted with an interesting currency exchange from US Dollar to Euro. Today’s rates in Kingfisher Kichwamba start at 205$ for a double room, half board.
R&R in paradise after roughing it in DRC.
It was exactly what we needed: relaxing by the pool, a western meal á la carte, getting some work done, a much needed wifi fix and a view to die for.
infinity pool with endless views over Queen Elisabeth National Parkspotted some elephants from our room’s porchnot a bad way to get some work done!
After soaking in as much as possible from our splurge, we returned to our backpacker’s reality the next day. We hitchhiked to Simba Safari Camp where we stayed in a dorm, talk about contrasts! It’s a great budget place to stay, they also offer private rooms.
hitchhiking on the equator
From there we arranged a boat safari on the Kazinga Channel, bringing along a cold beer to enjoy with the scenery. You don’t need to book a package tour, you can easily arrange transport to the departure point and buy a ticket for the boat trip once you are there. Though I can’t recall the exact price, I can tell you it was definitely less than 30$ per person.
crusing down the channel, spotting wild life and having a cold one… What a chilled out way to spend an afternoon!
Instead of booking a multi-day safari package, we hired a car with driver to take us on a game drive in the national park. Though Queen Elisabeth NP may be far from the most impressive safari I’ve been on, it very well is the cheapest. Perfect for animal lovers on a budget!
crown birds at dawncrater lakegetting close to some lazy lions
There’s plenty to do in QE National Park like chimp tracking or looking for tree climbing lions but we opted for a more economical activity: hiking in ‘Maramagambo Forest’. Since we already had a car and driver for the day, the only cost left was that of the entrance fee to the forest and a tip for the guide taking you along the trails, pointing out various species of primates, birds and medicinal plants.
Our main reason to hit the forest, was to see the massive python living in a bat cave. Apparently, it doesn’t hunt, it just opens its mouth and waits for one of the thousands of bats to fly in. This is all the python does, all day long. Therefore it has gotten so fat, it can hardly move. We were keen on seeing the spectacle. Unfortunately we missed the freak show as the python had already returned deep inside the cave after its daily suntanning moment, when it drags itself out of the cave.
a beautiful walk through the forest in search of the fat lazy pythonnow that’s what I call a bat cave!
TOTAL RELAXATION BY LAKE BUNYONYI
Next we headed to Lake Bunyonyi, if you’ve been following this blog for a while, you might have read my post on Lake Bunyonyi, my favourite spot in Africa so far.
Lake Bunyonyi
Both times we stayed in a magical place called Byoona Amagara, definitely the best value lodge I’ve stayed in. For just 15$ per person per night, we had a small geodome with private bathroom and a stunning view over the Ugandan lake. They also provide dorms (7$) if you’re really tight on cash but the beauty of staying here is undoubtedly the geodome experience. There are plenty of other places to stay on Lake Bunyonyi, I haven’t tried any of them as I’m totally hooked on Byoona Amagara…
(clockwise) typical Bunyonyi flowery tree, stretching with my sister on our geodome’s sun deck, boating on the lake, view from the bed in the large geodomethe small geodome, no doors. Just a mosquito net between nature and yourself.eco-shower with a view
The entire trip in Uganda took us about 10 days, travelling quite slowly, spending enough time at each destination. You could backpack the same trip in fewer days but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. If you have more time, why not add a stop in Jinja and/or a jaunt to Murchison falls to see more animals and a stunning waterfall.
Have you been to Uganda? Would you consider going?
Every time I spend a reasonable amount of time in a big city, I try to look for some funny, cool, quirky things to do besides the general tourist attractions. As this was my second time in Bogotá, it didn’t take me long to have completed the list of “must-sees”.
Though I found Latin America to be generally less quirky than Asia, there are still plenty of unusual, zany thing to be found. This is what I found during my week in Bogotá…
The women’s wellness hostel spa focusses on the well being and relaxation of female travellers, more specifically women who have just undergone cosmetic surgery and those travelling to Bogotá for child birth. First of all, let me tell you this: cosmetic surgery tourism, is absolutely a thing in Colombia. You’ll find women from all over the country as well as international travellers flocking to the capital for their ‘grade A’ surgeries. Colombia is reputed to have some of the best cosmetic surgeons in the region at a fair price (about one third of the price in the USA or Europe).
Now, there’s no need to get “work done” to stay at this hostel as they welcome ALL women, surgery vacation or not. They have a small gym, a beauty salon and a homely spa to offer their guest some relaxing “me-time”. I stayed a couple of nights (FYI, I had no surgery done, it just seemed fun to stay at a women’s only hostel for a change) and indulged in a spa night: sauna, massage by the chiminea, full body scrub, chocolate body mask and candlelit jacuzzi. I had the spa all to myself and was guided by a masseuse with golden hands who took care of me so well, I felt like royalty. The rates per night are hostel rates so don’t expect a fancy spa… It’s more like a cosy home stay.
jacuzzi fit for a queen…
The room was small but tidy; perfect to reconnect with myself after a lot of traveling. The hostel is far from the centre though, so if your mind is set on exploring the old centre, this is not the place to be. If you’ve already visited Bogotá and are in town just to catch your flight, it’s definitely a spot to consider.
the single room, Colombian breakfast (huevos revueltos, arepa and hot chocolate with panela, fresh juice), the massage table by the chiminea
Rates are approx. 26$ for a double room, 21$ for a single, breakfast included. You can book with them directly or through your usual hostel booking site. Calle 159 A N° 22 – 11, Bogotá.
2. Beer and explosives: Play a few rounds of Tejo
A game where beer flows heavily and explosives spark up continuously, what could possibly go wrong? Tejo is one of Colombia’s traditional ancient sports. Though the sport/game in itself doesn’t necessarily involve drinking, the informal tournaments today are often played while consuming (lots) of beer. To play the game’s simplified version, contestants throw a round metal puck, a tejo, across the lane to hit a target about 20 meters away. What’s the target? Small triangular envelopes filled with gun powder secured with clay on a board. Each time your tejo hits the gunpowder an explosion occurs and you score points! With the explosions come cheering, laughing and -there it is- large quantities of beer.
ready to playgunpowder envelope and tejo
Tejo has become a popular backpackers’ activity and many hostels organise “tejo nights” with a “drink-all-the-beer-you-can” formula.
3. Dunk your cheese in a cup of hot sugar water: Aguapanela con queso
You can try aguapanela all over the country, you could even find it in other Latin American countries but it’s said to be a Colombian speciality. Hot aguapanela is made by melting some ‘panela’ into hot water. Panela is a product made from sugar cane, tasting somewhat similar to brown sugar. Supposedly, it boasts lot’s of healthy components such as vitamin C (more than in fresh orange juice) and rehydrating minerals. I don’t know, it tasted just like sugar to me. Aguapanela can be drunk cold, perhaps with a squeeze of lemon or hot, with a splash of (chocolate)milk. According to Colombian tradition, hot aguapanela is best enjoyed by dunking a chunk of fermented cheese in your cup. For someone like me, who has mostly given up sugar, this was an absolutely undrinkable concoction. But definitely worth a try if you’re looking to attempt new things and are interested in the country’s traditions.
4. Quadruple your spare change on the streets: Gamble on a guinea pig
The concept is simple, a man on the street lays a bunch of numbered plastic cups upside down in a circle. You place your bet, thus your spare change, on top of what you think will be the winning cup. The host of the game then releases one of his guinea pigs who will chose the winning cup. If the rodent enters the cup your change is sitting on, you are the winner and you will receive 4 or 5 times the money you bet. You lose your change if the guinea pig doesn’t chose your cup. Of course the odds are not very favourable and these animals are trained, so it’s not really a trustworthy game, as with most street games. It is an entertaining street act however. You should see participating as dropping a few coins in the hat of a street artist. If you are concerned about animal cruelty, I can’t really say what these animals’ lives are like, but they all looked healthy, well fed and groomed.
tourists en locals in full suspense…
You can run into these games on the streets of Bogotá as well as in other Colombian cities.
5. Dine and Dance in hell, purgatory or heaven: Andrés D.C.
I wouldn’t know how else to describe this restaurant other than quirky. Andrés D.C. prides itself with 4 floors of total madness. The top floor represents heaven and as you lower down, you’ll reach earth, purgatory and eventually hell. Upon entering the restaurant, you won’t know where to look: the decor is insane featuring all kinds of kitsch trinkets, all matching the floor’s theme. Then, there is the staff bouncing around in wacky outfits (think disco dude or lady from a Botero painting- with fake, disproportioned arms and behinds). Once you’re seated, try to chose an item from the menu… I think it’s the longest menu I’ve ever seen: it’s a bout 30 pages long. While you try to make what seems like an impossible choice, the staff will serenade you, make you dance, bring props for you to wear… They’re not just your waiters, they are your entertainment for the night.
the crazier, the betterserenaded by the entertainers
You never know what might happen next while you’re sipping on your “lethal mojito”. If the loud music, the laughter and the cocktails have given you an appetite for a dance, just head to hell where you can devilishly swing your hips while you wait for your food. The food is very tasty but let’s face it, you don’ t really dine here for the grub… It’s the atmosphere and the original concept that make this restaurant worthwhile.
Andrés D.C. is extremely popular, so make sure you have a reservation or you’re in for a very long wait. Now that’s what I would call hell. Calle 82, No. 12-21, C.C. El Retiro, Zona Rosa, Bogotá
Have you been to Bogota? What did you think of the city?
For as long as I can remember, I’ve always dreamt of going to a “real” oasis in the desert. You know, like the ones you seen in movies or cartoons: a palm tree clad village with an abundance of water and crops, smack in the middle of sand plains and dust. A place where you could sit by a well in the shadow of a tree in total silence and watch the occasional heard of sheep pass by.
That’s exactly what Garmeh is like. Somewhere in Iran’s central desert, Dashte- kavir, lies this tiny village irrigated by a small mountain spring. Garmeh has been welcoming and accommodating travellers for hundreds of years as it was one of the pitstops on the famous silk road.
the oasis of Garmeh- click to enlarge
Getting there and away was far from easy. It entailed several vehicles switches, each time leaving us on the side of a dusty road. Thanks to our non-existent Persian language skills, we only had our hands and smiles to ask for direction and communicate with people on the way. But Iranians, friendly and helpful as they are, always found a way to make us feel at ease and see us through to the next leg of our journey.
one of the most unique looking guesthouses I’ve ever stayed inpet’s at Ateshooni
Our days were filled with walks, relaxation and interesting conversations with other travelleres- half of which were young Iranians.
walking around the villagereading, discussing, laughing with travellers in the guesthouse’s living roomin the village
Our nights were spent entranced by Maziar Ale Davoud’s live music, artist and owner of the guest house. Followed by stargazing and eye-opening conversations whilst sipping tea in miniature cups and nibbling on fresh dates.
We were spoilt with incredible meals three times a day.
getting acquainted with the unique flavours of Persian cuisine
It was so idyllic we ended up booking an extra night- which would have turned into a week were our days in Iran not restricted by a tourist visa.
couldn’t resist spending another day in this little paradise
After a few days in Garmeh, I was not ready to kiss the desert sands goodbye. So we extended our trip by spending the night in another settlement in the desert; “Mesr” near Farahzad. We stayed in ‘Barandaz lodge’, another family run guesthouse with an attached farm. Though the oasis was not as picture perfect as in Garmeh, what we got here was another classic desert scene; enormous sand dunes. Perfect for dune bashing at sunset.
romance at its bestour play ground just after sunsetwarming up our feet after running around barefooted in the dunescamel burgers for dinner
The mornings were just as magical. As the sun rose, you could feel the entire farm and its surrounding rising too. Cows and sheep enjoying(?) their morning milking sessions, camels being taken out for their morning walk, the sun slowly heating up the yellow sand and tea getting to a boil on an open fire.
chasing the rebellious camel that got away from the pack
While this all was going on, there was silence. That strange kind of silence where you do hear things are going on, but their sound disappear in the greater silence. The loudest noise around are your thoughts. Eventually those too quiet down until they are completely mute.
“I think I’m in love with the desert”, I confessed to Douglas. He shot me a jealous look and we never spoke of it again.
photo by Douglas Deleu
We left Dashte-Kavir too soon, but then again, same thing goes for pretty much every destination we visited in Iran.
How do you feel about the desert? Is it an environment you like?
The post “Desert Oasis of your Dreams: Garmeh, Iran” first appeared on Travel Cake.
So you’ve decided to do it, you’re going to venture in what people find the scariest, darkest continent of them all. Let’s start by rectifying this misapprehension straight away, shall we.
Though there are some African countries that could qualify as somewhat “scary”, Africa is a huge continent. Did you know that Africa could easily fit the USA, China, India, Japan and Europe (Eastern and Western) all at once? How could a place this vast, possibly be generalised about, especially when it comes to safety, wealth, travel comfort, landscape or anything else for that matter.
true size of Africa- click to enlarge
Many travellers make it to Morocco, Egypt and Tunisia but never dare to wander more south, mostly out of fear. I won’t deny that the continent has its problems, but in terms of travel there is no reason to hesitate to chose Africa as a backpacking destination. That being said, it’s only natural to be at least a bit nervous about travelling to the ‘unknown’.
Every week I receive e-mails on this subject. Noob Africa travellers wanting to know where to go exactly. So I’ve come up with 5 of Africa’s most accessible countries; easy to backpack in, fantastic highlights, descent transportation, safe and a great introduction to Sub-Saharan Africa.
1. Tanzania: The Classic
Nothing wrong with a good classic. Going to Tanzania, you will not have any problems finding an easy tourist trail to follow while it’s just as easy to get off the beaten track. English is one of the official languages, so you should be able to communicate easily, even in small towns. The country offers a good mix of attractions: pristine beaches, mountains, scuba diving, rich cultural heritage, world class national parks… You’ll have the option to camp or to spoil yourself in the most amazing lodges and resorts. Tanzania has been hosting foreign visitors for decades, leaving it with a well developed tourist infrastructure.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Safari in Serengeti and/or Ngorongoro crater
scenes from Disney’s Lion King in Tanzaniacamping in Serengeti park is a good budget option and tons of funyou’re very likely to spot all your favourite savanna animals
* Chimpanzee tracking, Fishing and snorkelling in and around Tanganyika Lake
* Beaches, dolphins, culture, spices and architecture on the islands of Zanzibar and/or Pemba
white sand beaches of Zanzibarcarvings on the doorscocktails on the beach
* Scaling Mt. Kilimanjaro
if your budget doesn’t allow to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, you can always admire it from afar. photo by Roman Boed
2. Senegal and The Gambia: The beating heart of Western Africa
Since The Gambia lies completely inside of Senegal you could easily visit both countries. Note that they each have very different personalities. Senegal, just like Tanzania, has seen visitors for decades. Though most stick to beach resorts, there is quite a good tourist infrastructure. In terms of communication, French is one of the official languages so unless you speak it, you’ll have to dialogue with gestures, which works just fine, especially in a country where laughter is more important than words. In The Gambia, however, you will be able to get by with English. It’s an up and coming vacation destination often nicknamed ‘Africa for beginners’. Due to its small size, you could experience The Gambia in just one week.
A few backpacker highlights:
* visit Dakar’s markets
Sandaga market, loud and colourful, just like Senegal. photo credits.
* Join a fisherman’s crew in Gambia
ask a fisherman if you can join him for a catch. Or sit back and watch them haul in the nets. Photo by Wendy Moriarty
* Live jazz and strolling around the historical town of Saint-Louis, Senegal
streets of Saint-Louis Senegal. Photo by Jan Dudas
3. Uganda: Mellow and diverse – can be combined with Rwanda:
I was surprised to see how easy it was to navigate through Uganda while lugging around a backpack. At the same time, it feels like an adventure asking people for rides on the back of their motorcycles. In both countries English is widely spoken, which facilitates contacts with locals. Uganda has a lot to offer: Safari’s by foot/4×4/boat, explosive waterfalls, vibrant nightlife, adrenaline sports, lakes and gorgeous hikes. There is a reason why they call it the “Pearl of Africa”. Adding Rwanda to your itinerary will bring contrast to your trip. Both countries have gorgeous lakes, offer the opportunity to go gorilla tracking and are a bird watcher’s paradise, yet they are so different to one another culturally. Keep in mind that you’ll need a higher budget for Rwanda.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Gorilla spotting
face to face with a gorilla in the wild, a one of a kind experience presumably worth that big chunk of your budget. old school picture by G. Vanden Daele
The best thing about Ghana must be its diversity and contrasts. You will find dry lands on one side of the country, lush tropical forests and waterfalls on the other. Muslim, Christians and animists living side by side in harmony. Traditional villages run by a chief versus big bustling cities where you can find high quality australian steak as well as fashionistas parading through the streets. With its position on the West Coast of Africa, Ghana played a crucial role in the slave trade with the Americas. You can learn more about it in the former slave markets on Ghana’s coast. Again, English is one of the official languages and there are plenty of intercity buses giving you the opportunity to travel around the country with minimum plans and good comfort.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Cape Coast and Elmina Castle
immerse yourself in the history of slavery. you can actually still reek the human despair in the castles dungeons.when the history lesson gets too intense, put the past behind you and enjoy a fresh juice on the beach while the fishermen prepare to cast their nets.
* Trekking in Kakum National park
mandatory photo with crocodile
* Experiencing village life and visiting Larabanga mosque
scenes around the villagesnot your typicial mosque, Larabanga. Photo by Felix Krohn
5. South Africa: Western comfort in an African robe
If you are yearning for some African flavour but are not quite ready to leave your western comfort, South Africa is the place for you. It has everything you would find in a modern European country combined with Africa’s typical ‘joie de vivre’. From transportation to hostels and top notch sites, South Africa has everything you need for a surprising backpacking trip. I write surprising because wine tasting, surfing and sharing a beach with penguins are probably not the first things that come in mind when you think of Africa. Note that you may need a slightly higher budget than in the African countries mentioned above.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Cape Town and surroundings
Cape town has something to offer to every type of traveller. Also check out the surrounding vineyards and Robben islands. Foto by Jens
* Hiking in Drakensberg
the Drakensberg plateau borders with the tiny country of Lesotho, so if you’re looking to explore an extra country, why not cross the border. photo by Laurel Robbins
* Wild life spotting in Kruger National Park
because most first time Africa travellers want to see some game during their trip.
Backpacking in Africa is very different than backpacking in places like South East Asia. It’s a little tougher and more expensive. But the interactions with local people is much more intense as is the “I’m an explorer”-feeling. Though intrepid travellers would also very much enjoy the destinations listed above, I would probably add some other, more “edgy” recommendations. That’s for a future blogpost!
Have you backpacked Africa? Would you like/dare to?
I wasn’t sure what “on a budget” in Albania would mean exactly. Would my daily lunches consist of a raw cucumber from the market? Would I be forced to skip the bus fee in order to save a few bucks? Would I be sleeping in dirty dungeons, sharing bathrooms with 10 other people?
None of that was the case, especially not the latter. I stayed in a few memorable and great value spots in Albania that I’ve been recommending to fellow travellers. So why not share them on this platform too?!
One of the important contributors of my mind blowing stay in the Albanian Alps was definitely the Rilinja guesthouse. I was sold the minute I laid eyes on the quaint chalet in the woods.
easy to find
What’s so awesome about it: your own balconied room in a chalet amidst the glorious forest trees, offering views over the mountains and a fast streaming river. Or the crackling fire warming up the reception/restaurant welcoming you after a strenuous hike. The restaurant, located right beneath your room boasting a menu full of delicious Northern Albanian specialities -I happened to have tried almost everything on the menu and I can say with confidence, all the dishes are very tasty.
scrumptious dinner and wine with new friends – click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– the most beautiful hiking trails start near the guesthouse- maps can be provided
one of the hikes starting from the guesthouse
– they serve an excellent home brewed red, which comes in very copious amounts
– the restaurant/reception is a fantastic place to meet and socialise with other travellers.
Extra info: keep in mind that the rooms are small and their walls are paper thin. But in such a beautiful environment, you’ll be out and about all day, using your room only to crash exhaustedly at night.
your back yard
Rates start at €30 for a double including a huge breakfast. Share the room with a travel mate and you’ve got yourself a great budget deal! Prices are lower during the winter. Camping spots are available for €2. Do make a reservation through their website, especially during the weekend as the place can get packed with local tourists.
Florian’s guesthouse and it’s orchards – click to enlarge
On your way to Valbona, you’ll probably have to make an overnight stop in Shkodër, that is if you’re taking the scenic route there. It’s a small town that has a few charms and can be wandered around in a day, two at the most. But it was Florian’s guesthouse that made Shkodër memorable to me.
What’s so awesome about it: the guesthouse is out of town so you will get a bicycle (for free) to ride to the centre. That 5-6 minute ride on the Albanian streets in itself, is an adventure you will not forget. You’ll be eating organic, with produce coming right out of the back yard, straight onto your plate. You can even pick some of the veggies yourself, if you like. It’s the place to be for an authentic Albanian family experience: having “family” dinners with the hosts and other guests while surrounded by orchards and countryside peace. You’ll drink home made wine and rakia while sharing travel tales and have the opportunity to learn about Albania’s past and present through the fascinating stories of your host.
at the dinner table, clockwise: organic home made wine, birthday cake and rakia for desert, dining on home grown produce, veggie soup- click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– fun loving, warm and welcoming host Florian
– free use of bicycles
– full board option for €4 extra. Home made wine included!
laughing, toasting, drinking in true Albanian style
Extra info: the dorm is nothing to write home about, but it’s the cosy atmosphere and that pureness of rural Albania that will make your stay unforgettable.
Countryside scenes right outside your doorstep
Rates start at €11 per person including breakfast. Add €4 and you get lunch, dinner and wine. How’s that for good value?!
adding my pick of the day to my breakfast- click to enlarge
I loved Berat’s charm so much, it brought tears to my eyes. Spending hours breaking a sweat going up and down the cobbled streets, I was happy to end the day in relaxed atmosphere with a cool beer and friendly conversation at the Berat Backpackers hostel.
clean spacious dorm with beautiful views
What’s so awesome about it: a gorgeously renewed Berat style historical house. You won’t just be visiting Berat, but really living in it. A relaxed atmosphere lending itself perfectly for socialising with guests and staff in the hip communal living room or sitting quietly in the courtyard reading a book while plump pomegranates fall from the trees as they ripen.
Bonus points:
– right in the middle of one of the historical centres
view outside the hostel
– option to have a communal dinner in the hostel
– come at the right time and you might be able to help turn the grape/fruit harvest into wine/jams… the traditional way.
the traditional way… Photo by Berat Backpackers
Extra info: I stayed at the hostel during low season so it was very quiet. During the summertime however, it’s very animated. Note that Berat Backpackers is closed during the winter (December 1st 2014- March 15th 2015). Rates start at €6 for camping, €10 for a dorm bed in low season (€12 in high season) and € 12 per person for a private double.
All three of these guesthouses added that extra magic to my Albania travel. If you happen to travel that way, I strongly recommend you checking them out.
Which one would have your fancy? What kind of accommodation do you prefer? Hotels or guesthouses/hostels?
Weeping in the name of overwhelming charm and beauty is a thing, right? Well it was for me: I definitely had to hold back a tear or two. They might have been tears of general happiness in combination with the setting I was walking around in. Berat was deserted as the tourist season had completely ended. It was the best autumn weather you can imagine; warm, sunny and slightly golden.
As I was walking through Berat’s narrow UNESCO protected alleys, I thought of this incredible solo trip I was undertaking. I had stumbled from one unexpected beauty onto the next. A certain peace came over me, I knew this was the end of an era. I knew this was the closing of my 20’s, even though that chapter wasn’t officially over 6 months from then. I smiled. I thought about everything I had done during the past decade: the people I had met, the unique place I had visited… No regrets, well maybe just a few. But I’m getting into another story here. Back to Berat. Loved it. Undoubtedly a place to put on your radar.
It’s quite a low key town, so you won’t have that pressure to tick off must see items. The best way to explore is just by wandering the streets.
the old townbroad sidewalks fringed with cafés and local fast food jointsleisurely walks all dayfishing
During the day you meet children at play, grandmothers carrying big baskets of fresh produce, grazing donkeys, fruits sellers and the odd bystander who curiously asks why you came to Albania and, of course, if you like the country. Though people don’t speak much English, the younger generation loves to practice the few key phrases they’ve been learning at school. When it comes to slightly older Albanians, you have a better chance at communicating in Italian or German.
fruit selling with a viewhide and seekdonkey on the way home
A relatively easy hike to the top of the town’s hill will bring you to the castle overlooking Berat. Inside the castle is an entire neighbourhood called Kalasa. Imagine white washed stone houses with pretty flowery yards and fruit orchards, old ladies selling bobbin lace and home made jams from seasonal organic fruit… So pure.
Get lost in the picturesque streets and at one point or another, you will find yourself on the top of the hill, by the ruins of the Inner Fortress. That’s where you take in the magnificent views over Berat and its surroundings. A stop in the tiny Onufri museum is worth the €2 if there aren’t many other visitors.
walking in Kalasaview from the top
Don’t forget to take lots of breaks to replenish with some Albanian coffee and delicious food. I was invited several times by locals for a coffee at their house. Free coffee with a moral obligation to at least buy some sweet home made jam.
just paint “Kafe” on the side of your house et voilà…my hostess carefully brewing me a cupthick strong coffee and jams, what else do you need?exquisite stuffed eggplant at Mangalemi restaurant
Each time I’d head back to my hostel, I’d stop by the fruit stand to contribute (a little) to the local economy by buying some pomegranates and apples. Dirt cheap and incredibly juicy, how could you resist?!
daily dose of vitamins
I don’t know what Berat looks like in summer (probably full of tourists) but I do know that October was a perfect time of the year to visit. The “Town of a Thousand Windows”, what an enchanting place.
It’s been awfully quiet on Travel Cake these past few week. So quiet in fact, some of you have been wondering if maybe I’d left the blogging scene.
If you’re following on Instagram or on Facebook you’ll already know that’s not the case.
So what have I been doing? Why the silence?
I’ve been traveling…
…IN MONTENEGRO
My trip started in Montenegro where I spent a couple of days exploring the South of the country. I must admit, I was a bit nervous when I set off as I knew almost nothing about Montenegro and hadn’t planned anything besides my flight. I had no idea what to expect: do the locals speak a few words of English? How far is the centre from the airport and what’s the best way to get there? What are the inhabitants of this country called? Monte-negr***?
This was going to be the ultimate “winging-it” trip. Never have I been this badly prepared. You know what? As it turns out, it’s not really a problem. I smoothly found my way to the lovely town of Kotor and stayed in a charming hostel where I met some inspiring people. I learned about the history, culture, food, language and how to catch a bus, right there on the spot. I was marveling at EVERYTHING because I had no expectations what so ever.
hiking in Kotor
I spent my days walking through medieval towns and gaping at majestic mountain scapes. I reconnected with myself during a solo pick-nick on a pebbled beach and had a “YOLO- moment” when I jumped in some icy waters with no one around to tell me whether it was safe or not.
All I could think about is going back. With a car, more time and perhaps a friend. By the way, the inhabitants of Montenegro are called ‘Montenegrins’, in case you were wondering.
…IN ALBANIA
Now I know Albania is not your typical ‘top of the wish list’ kind of destination but I had always been curious about this country. Once again, I crossed the border with next to no expectations.
Albania’s overwhelmingly stunning scenery, its taste, mostly organic food and its welcoming people took me aback. It is a rugged land with an edge. Everything I would try to undertake, no matter how banal, seemed like an adventure. Cycling to town, buying a loaf of bread in the corner shop or catching a bus suddenly became challenging activities. It wasn’t the easiest travel destination for a female solo traveller but it wasn’t too hard either. I don’t think I’ve uttered exclamatory WOW’s as often as I did in Albania. It’s a country that fascinates, mystifies. Another place, I can’t wait to go back.
slanted slopes of the Albanian “Alps”
…IN KOSOVO
Due to an unexpected turn of events, I suddenly found myself in Kosovo. I spent 24 hours in the city of Prizren trying to find Kosovo’s unique characteristics. Though I didn’t have enough time to find out, I enjoyed a sunny day by the river banks and an animated night in this charming city.
snacks in Prizren
I’ve attended TBEX, a travel bloggers conference
TBEX is the most renowned conference for travel bloggers taking place in North America and Europe every year. This year, it was the city of Athens hosting the conference and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to meet fellow bloggers and visit Greece for the first time. So off to Athens I went. The sessions at the conference taught me a lot about the ‘art’ of travel blogging: the social and the technical aspects. More importantly, the conference presented a chance to connect with colleagues and people in the industry. I met a wonderful community: creative people with strong drives looking to move forward, looking to inspire.
at TBEX in Athenssunset over Athens
What’s next? A PARTNERSHIP WITH VizEat
I’m happy to announce my partnership with VizEat, a revolutionized way of sharing a meal with a local during your travels or at home.. It’s a concept which I think will interest the traveling foodies out there. The idea is simple: you book a home cooked meal with a local in the country you’re visiting. The host dines with you, which creates a cosy opportunity for you get to know one another (and get the inside scoop of the place). Of course it works the other way too: you can have travellers dine at your house while you share food, stories and friendship. I’m excited to try it out and sharing the experience with you.
A TRAVEL DREAM COME TRUE
I’m writing this post at the airport. Waiting to board the flight to a destination which has been one of my dream destination for years. I’m off to… Iran!
I’m looking forward to experiencing first hand what it’s really like there, to meet the people, to roam the bazaars and to find myself amidst the relic remainders of ancient Persian myths and culture. I’ll be blogging about my experiences when I return.
WE’RE MOVING AGAIN!
Although we loved living in Bali, it’s time to try something new. So we’ve decided to settle on the other side of the world. We’re moving to Latin America!
I’ll be sharing more details by the end of the year.
If you can’t wait that long, make sure follow Travel Cake on Facebook or join the free monthly newsletter to get the scoop.
Have you been traveling recently? Where have you been? Any travel plans coming up?
