It was no mistake, but a conscious choice I made under the motto: don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!
There I sat, in the hostels’ common room, chatting away with all the interesting travellers who were exploring a relatively unknown destination: East-Timor.
As we discussed our experiences in the country so far, a new found friend mentioned he had stumbled upon a canteen that served dog meat. I was intrigued! Especially when the Chinese girl sitting across me affirmed that it was a must-try dish! She described vividly how good dog meat tastes and how it’s served in the form of pudding in China. Wide-eyed, I listened and grew more and more curious. I’m the type of person who will try any food once -maggots and cockroaches being the only exceptions. I felt compelled to try it. I wasn’t likely to ever order it off a menu but now the opportunity laid right in front of me… slow cooked in a red and green chili sauce, just waiting to be eaten.
Hey, don’t judge…
slow cooked in red and geen chili
Maybe a little bit of background first. East Timor – officially Timor Leste– underwent a long and painful bloody invasion that only ended 16 years ago. The country suffered from famine during the long lasting war and people were left with no option but to eat anything edible they could lay hands on, such as dogs.
Once the situation improved, people had gotten accustomed to the taste of dog meat and truly enjoyed it. We spoke with a local Timorese who explained that even though they would see the dogs eating the human corpses lying on the street, they’d still choose eat the dogs. Partly out of necessity and partly because they liked meat.
first bite is the hardest?
Since 2002, Timor-Leste is recognised by the UN as an independent country and things have been looking up. Even though the economic situation is still deplorable, dog meat is no longer a necessity. Yet, many Timorese still enjoy a good serving of dog while others refuse to consume it, as it reminds them of bad times…
Timor-Leste is a catholic country where a significant amount of muslims reside; Indonesians, Indians, expats and locals. Since dog is ‘haram’ in islamic culture, the Timorese keep the dog meat (RW) in a separate cabinet, so it wouldn’t ‘contaminate’ the rest of the food.
know your meats… “RW” is no chicken!
Anyways… I ate dog stew. How was it?
The sauce was delightful; it had a nice little kick to it but overpowered the gamey flavour of the meat, which was tough and chewy. Its texture was comparable to that of an old piece of beef you find at the bottom of your freezer. This wasn’t a beautifully cut steak I got, just some random squares of meat, consisting mostly fat and skin… I wanted to be brave and I didn’t want to waste food, but… I couldn’t finish my plate. With every bite, I couldn’t help but picture myself nibbling on one of those scabby streets dogs. So, I put down my fork and drank a litre of water. I’ve tried it and now know for sure; I do not like dog meat.
A couple of days ago, I started listing the 20 best things of Palawan, the Philippines. Today, I’m finishing off the list (Read part I here)
In no particular order,
What else makes Palawan so great?
11. Motorcycling through the country side
Hire a motorcycle/scooter in El Nido or Coron and drive off into the horizon. Feel the wind through your hair while taking in the beauty of the landscapes, the villages… Kids on the side of the road scream ‘HELLOOO!’ or put their hands out for a full driving speed high-five. The motorbike gives you the freedom to stop anywhere you like; an unexpected mangrove river or a little-visited kingfisher park… Beware of the half-finished roads full of potholes, especially right after big rains. If you don’t drive, you can always bat your eyes at someone with a motorcycle and get a ride. Yes, even guys might get lucky! Do what ever you can, because it’s a ride not to be missed!
red dirt roadsmangrove rivera minimum driving skills needed
12. The seafood curry at “Squido’s”, El Nido town
It’s huge, it’s messy, dirt cheap and absolutely delicious. The curry paste used for the dish comes straight from Madras and the seafood is as fresh as can be. With “Squido’s” being a French-Philippino fusion restaurant, guess what the curry is served with? Mashed potatoes! A surprising combo that leaves you wanting more. Check out this portion for two…
“fruits de mer curry”
13. The warm smiles
Smiles are not thrown around all the time, everywhere for no apparent reason, like in some Asian countries, but they are warm, wide and genuine. It’s the ideal place for portrait photography. Especially since people in the Philippines love to strike a pose!
a child’s smilephoto as requested by these girls
14. Sleeping and working in beach shacks
I don’t know about you, but I’m crazy about beach shacks. To me they crown the beach life experience. Sleeping on the beach is fabulous, so what about working with the sounds of nature in the background?
The internet is not all that on Palawan, but if you can do without, it’s the perfect place to get some work done or draft a couple of thesis chapters.
getting some work done…
15. Waterfalls and hot springs
Two of my weak spots. When I hear either of those words, I interestedly spring up, ready to make my way there. There are several waterfalls and natural hot springs across the island, most of them are low key and little visited.
low key waterfallsno pushy tourists
16. It’s Jurassic Park, minus the dinosaurs
JP is real and it’s in Palawan! OK, technically, it’s not; the film was mostly shot in Hawaii… Either way, I often saw myself in a Jurassic park scene and that’s just too exciting!
approaching jurassic park
17. Finding paradise around every corner
You walk and all of the sudden…
You drive your bicycle and all of the sudden…
You row your kayak and all of the sudden…
surprise!
…A little corner of paradise surprises you and welcomes you to sit back and relax…
18. The snorkelling
Those who don’t dive or don’t have the budget to do so, are also in for a treat in Palawan. The snorkel sites are at least as impressive as the dive sites. The coral is in excellent shape, colourful tropical fish are abound and the water is crystal clear. Sometimes you don’t even need to snorkel to admire the underwater world, you can just look down from the boat and get a glimpse of what lies beneath. As discussed in my previous post, there are a few shipwrecks you can discover by snorkelling.
wreck ready to be snorkledif you don’t feel like hitting the water, just look out of the boat
19. Having a cool beer on a deserted beach
Even if you are in the middle of nowhere in Palawan, chances are, there is a small house or shop nearby, the owner has a cold beer in his fridge and he’ll sell it to you for a reasonable price. This means you can have your ice cold beer in a deserted area! If you’re lucky, they might even throw in a couple of salted peanuts…
cold San Miguel on the beach
20. The insane sunsets
I still can’t get over how intense these were. Just for that, I’d return to Palawan. The following picture has not been altered in Photoshop! This is real!
sunset over El Nido
There you have it, the 20 best things about Palawan.Why have you not booked your ticket yet?
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I recently vacationed in Palawan, a gorgeous island province of the Philippines. Its natural beauty and its remarkable people blew me away. Words can’t begin to explain the experience, but I hope some of these pictures can, to some extent. So, here is part I of the best things in Palawan.
In no particular order,
What makes Palawan so great?
1. El Nido’s rock formations
Limestone spikes emerging from azure waters against a backdrop of lush greenery; that’s what you see when venturing in the bays around El Nido town. Astonishing!
Heart Island, El Nido
2. Kinilaw
It’s a popular dish throughout the Philippines, but particularly available in Palawan. Diced fresh fish or shrimp, gently cooked by the acid of its marinade; vinegar and calamansi (or lime) juice. Finished off with spices and herbs; salt, pepper, garlic, onion and chillies, it’s the Asian version of ‘ceviche’. It’s served cold and is the perfect lunch or starter. Every restaurant adds a personal touch to the recipe, which makes it different each time you order the dish. I ate my weight in kinilaw and I never got bored of it!
non-stop kinilaw
3. Being in Palawan during low season
Going to Palawan during low season, means the weather is not at its best. I was worried we would spend our entire vacation playing cards in our rooms waiting for the endless rain to stop. After all, we are talking about typhoon season here. Although it did rain almost every other day, the showers usually lasted between 20 minutes and two hours. Except for a few cloudy days, the sun shone brightly enough to burn my skin several times.
The best part about low season though, is the tiny amount of tourists on the island. We had most of the attractions all to ourselves! I strongly dislike all-in group tours, but we had no other choice than to book a couple, to save a few bucks. What a wonderful surprise it was, to find out the ‘group’ consisted of just Douglas and I. A private boat for the price of a 15 pax shared one?! That’s worth withstanding some rain! Low season also ensures cheaper hotel prices and the good deals are just waiting to be made! If you’re on a budget and like to escape the crowds, low season is the time to go! If you can handle the occasional tropical storm, that is…
tropical storm brewing uptyphoon sea
4. BBQ-lunches on the beach
With every island hopping trip, whether it’s private or in group, a lunch stop on one of the islands is included. The boat crew whips out some charcoal, a couple of fishes, fruits, veggies, some meat and transforms that into a scrumptious meal. And here I was thinking (knowing?) that organised tours only serve you mediocre to horrible food! Everything is freshly prepared on the boat, or on the island beach. A delicious barbecued lunch on a deserted beach, what else could you ask for?
BBQ on the beachbuffet
5. Kayangan lake- Coron island
How about a refreshing swim in what is said to be one of the cleanest lakes in Asia? The lake’s cool turquoise water is a mixture of fresh and salt water and is one of the seven enchanted lakes of Coron. Yes, I wrote ‘enchanted’. The indigenous Tagbanua tribe believes that spirits use to dwell here and therefore performed rituals to transfer these spirits to larger lakes. You can now enjoy a tranquil, spirit-free swim and enjoy the scenery. Very important tip: make sure you arrive here early in the morning, before the big masses of tourists do!
Kayangan lakeview from the top
6. The simple life
Life in Palawan is slow and simple. People spend a lot of time with family and friends, taking each day as it comes. It’s contagious. The “tomorrow is another day “-attitude and the “what will be, will be” -philosophy, makes you unwind and slow down. You think about what’s important in life, appreciate the good things you have while realising you don’t know how long it’s all going to last. It’s a typical island attitude from which we could all learn a little. That makes Palawan also attractive for the spirit.
boat washed up in a tree, but it’s all good…
7. The religion
As you may or may not know, the Philippines are, for the most part, a catholic country. I must say, it was very refreshing to see signs of Christianity again after being in Asia for 6 months. Not that I’m tired of pagoda’s, stuppah’s, mosques, temples and ashrams, it just feels so familiar to be surrounded by (kitsch) Maria statuettes, big crosses, people saying grace before a meal and church bells on a sunday morning. Who would have thought?
JCcountryside gate
8. The rice fields
Palawan is not all beaches, lakes and waterholes. There are also bright green rice fields all over the island, diffusing some sort of serenity. Although it’s not particularly THE place to be in The Philippines for impressive rice terraces and rice fields, they’re beautiful nonetheless. The greenery is a nice change from the beach scene. Take a walk around or drive through the countryside and take in the fields zooming by.
little house in the rice fieldperfect for a walk
9. Wreck diving
More than 20 Japanese ships sunk in the waters of Palawan during WWII. The entities where death once prevailed are now full of life. Coral has incrusted the ship decks and marine life has found a perfect nook to create their biotopes in. Some shipwrecks are as deep as 40m others lie as shallow as 10m deep and are perfectly snorkleable. Although we didn’t see much marine activity during our shipwreck dives, floating from one room to the next with a tiny torch in the hand was an intense experience. 100% Jacques Cousteau- feel.
ready for discoverywreck diving
10. Drop dead gorgeous beaches
I’ve seen a lot of paradise beaches, but these… These are without a doubt, in my top 3 list! Perfect for cliché photo shoots!
approaching helicopter beachwith a backdrop like that, who could resist a photo shoot?
Stay tuned for part II with more great things about Palawan!
One week lay over in ‘Kota Kinabalu’ or ‘KK’ for friends, capital of Sabah, the second largest state of Malaysia. Located on the island of Borneo, the state is reputed for its rich natural diversity.
It boasts Malaysia’s highest peak, a UNESCO world heritage tropical jungle, pristine beaches, world-class dive sites and orangutans in the wild.
Amazing!
Who wouldn’t want a weeklong layover in what sounds like an ecological paradise?! You would be mad not to grasp the opportunity to explore the riches of Sabah. Yet here I was, comfortably settled in my hostel dorm room, not planning any activities at all.
What happened?
Sabah does indeed have some gems, but like most treasures, they are highly protected. This means you mostly need to book packaged tours to explore the majority of them. That’s right, forget the ‘National Geographic-type’ scene of you and your local guide machetting your way through the lush steamy rainforest. There are clearly marked paths and lots of other tourists.
entrance to the park
To climb Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia’s highest mountain, you need to book your overnight expedition months ahead and it will set you back €270.
Kinabalu peak from a safe distance
During your organised canoe safari through the jungle rivers, your guide tells you he can’t stop the boat for you to check out the monkey posing by the river bank because it’s already 6.05pm and your tour ends at 6pm. (True story from several travellers I met)
You’re obviously not the only one taking the tours, so you can expect hordes of (Chinese) tourists, island hopping with you and leaving trash all over the not so deserted beaches.
arrival of a tourist group
For a guaranteed sighting of orangutangs swinging freely through the treetops you need to make way to the rehabilitation centre… Why spend seven hours on the road only to have to fight off a crowd of tourists on the viewing platform.
Don’t get me wrong, there are possibilities to have a more authentic Borneo experience and not use tours, but it will take you quite some time, effort and money.
So what happened?
I was simply not in the mood for extensive travel nor did I want a disneyland-type outing despite the fact that the attractions are unique in the world. I decided not to partake in the “mandatory” tourist trail. I spent most my days in Kota Kinabalu working from the hostel, getting massages, eating, socialising with travellers and the hostel personnel.
daily dose of Malaysian staples
After a while I started feeling some traveler’s guilt, thinking “I really ought to visit something...ANYTHING!”
So I took 3 short trips from KK and as it turns out, you can perfectly “fake” the tourist trail bygoing on day trips!
Even though I was being a lazy traveler, I still managed to see most of Sabah’s highlights!
One of the trips, which was actually an overnight trip, took me to Kinabalu National park
I didn’t climb Mt. Kinabalu but I did mount some sloping hills around it and got some great views
views
I hiked a few km’s through the rainforest
light hiking
A 15 minute boat ride just off KK’s coast took me to some unspoilt beaches.
deserted beachperfect for a beer
The last outing, took me to Rasa Ria, a five star resort which has its own nature reserve. It’s a short 45 minute taxi ride away from KK, which allowed me to spend a few a hours getting close and personal with our orangutan cousins. The resort’s rehabilitation centre is in close coöperation with the larger and more popular Sepilok Nature Reserve. There are much less orangutans in Rasa Ria, but also less tourists and the monkeys play around closer to the viewing platform.
happy and freebuddies
Unfortunately, diving was the only activity missing from my ‘lazy travel itinerary’. It takes an extra flight, a bus trip and truckload of cash (at least €500) to reach the underwater paradise of Sipidan. Although it would have undoubtedly been worth the trouble, I didn’t have the money. I still managed to see a lot of fish… on my plate!
yellow fin tunalobsterblowfishtropical fishblue spotted stingray
I spoke with many travellers in Sabah and they all confirmed my thoughts: by visiting this part of Borneo, you probably won’t be in for a rugged, authentic and unique adventure. Unless you have an abundance of time and resources, that is.
Sabah is a great destination if you long to comfortably experience what Borneo has to offer minus the hassle of organising permits, transportation… I would advice you to combine a visit to Sabah with –time permitting- Sarawak, the other Malaysian state on the island.
For a more unspoilt cultural and natural Bornean experience, head to Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo.
Have you ever skipped the main tourist attractions because you just didn’t feel like it?
Here is a quick post with a few pictures from the Philippines where I’m currently exploring the island of Palawan.
So far I can only say, the PHILIPPINES are spectacular, diverse, enchanting… The people are eternal optimists, polite and always up for a laugh. Even though I’ve only been on two provinces of the country, I get the impression the rest of the country shares these traits.
Here is a sneak preview of what we’ve been doing during the past few days
Discovering secret islands in El Nidorice fields and jeepneysmotorcycling through the country sidedelicious foodTaking time for some cheesy romancemonkey loveexploring the underground riverhopping around deserted islandsfresh eels for dinnermind blowing sunsets, no photoshop here!!
I’m excited to discover more in the following week!
For those of you who have not recently been inspecting the map of Indonesia, the Gili’s are three small islands just off the coast of Lombok, the island neighbouring Bali. All three Gili’s have that remote island vibe visitors look for. They’re all scooter and car free -which is very refreshing in Indonesia. The diving and snorkelling trips take you to all the good spots around all three islands, no matter which one you’re residing on. Each one of them has gorgeous white sand beaches and crystal clear waters. Yet they’ve each got a very different and unique personality. With only a couple of km’s apart, you could easily navigate from one island to the other. But what if you don’t have time to search for your perfect Gili? How do you choose the one that suits you best? That’s where this article comes in.
Ini mini miny moe, to which Gili island should I go?
1. Gili Meno- the smallest one
You can jog around it in 30minutes.
First impression- “hmm, this whole island is under construction”
About the beaches- there are a couple of patches of sandy beach, but most stretches have a significant amount of dead coral lying around. The shade is minimal. Using beach chairs is essential for basic comfort. Getting in and out of the water can get tricky as you’ll be walking on layers of sharp dead coral and stones. You can also find a couple of “mangrove-like” beaches.
sharp dead coral beachmangrove like beach
Development- there is a limited amount of bars and restaurants, but they are definitely numerous enough for you to consume each meal at a different place for at least 7 days. There are sufficient lodging options to choose from, but the island still feels quite empty. At the time of writing, a few new guest houses were being built and the roads were slowly getting paved. There is very little street lighting so once it’s dark, it’s DARK.
After sunset- nightlife here is non-existent. You might find a few locals jamming on their guitars but basically after dinner, all you hear is the sound of clashing waves and chirping crickets.
Perfect for- the traveller who is serious about his/her tan, the CEO who wants everybody to leave him the F* alone, the semi-celebrity who wants to go incognito, the adulterer with his/her mistress/lover, anyone who wants to get off the grid.
A piece of advice- bring a torch. Bring a lot of a cash as there are no ATM’s on the island. A pair of water sandals will come in handy if you plan on swimming a lot. If you’re traveling solo, bring a Wilson.
Wilson for company
In a nutshell: the general vibe is very laid back. At times you feel like you’re the only person on the island. Ideal if you need some hardcore de-stressing. Watch out for stones and sharp dead coral in the shallow water. The latter being a result of years of dynamite fishing.
Meno sunset
2. Gili Air- the one with a green heart
The only Gili with a fresh water source (‘air’ means ‘water’ in Bahasa Indonesian). Consequently, it’s the greener island.
First impression- “Let the vacation begin”
About the Beaches- take your pick; there are sandy beaches, where you’ll find most people and there are deserted mixed beaches (sand and dead coral mix). The sandy beaches are relatively empty in the morning when everyone is out on snorkelling trips and diving excursion.
sandy beach in the morning
Development- one side of the coast is well developed with guest houses, cafés, dive centers, a yoga and meditation center… The other side has little development and is scattered with a few low key establishments. The centre of the island is rural; farms, family compounds, local eateries…
restaurants on the calm side of the islandsmile includedgreen heart of Airhorse drawn carriages replace cars and scooters
After sunset- don’t count on a wild party. There are however, a few bars offering live music.
Perfect for- the “I don’t really like going to the beach”-types, the traveller who wants the deserted island sensation as well as Western comfort, yogi’s, families, nature lovers.
A piece of advice- rent a bike to explore the island. If you want peace and quiet, look for accommodation on the left side of the island (‘left’ when your back is turned towards the harbour). Go to the other side if you want more human interaction and more swimmable waters.
bicyling around the island
In a nutshell: the atmosphere is relaxed, the beer is cold and the sun puts on quite a performance every evening around 6.00pm. Cheap and decent accommodation is available and easy to find. It’s the place where you forget about time yet know exactly when happy hour starts.
happy hour and sunset
3. Gili Trawangan- but you can call me Gili T
The most popular one.
First impression– “Oh God, I’m old…”
About the Beaches– FULL. Of people, of bars, of restaurants, of club lounges, of shops, of dive centres, of beach vendors… Full of everything. HOWEVER, if you walk (or take a horse drawn carriage) to the other side of the island, the beaches are serene and empty.
full, popular beachesthe emptier beaches
Development- I think the line above explains the level of development well enough. There is a LONG strip by the beach, jam-packed with all that a tourist could ever desire.
After sunset- happy hour, cocktail hour, party, after-party… There are enough places that accommodate all the stages of a pumping party night. Pick up some live music, chill at one of the Ibiza-style beach lounges, grab some popcorn and attend an open-air movie screening or -if that’s your scene- order a couple of ‘magic mushroom shakes’ which are widely and openly available on the island. What ever you do, there is no way you’ll be in your bedroom fluffing your pillow by 10pm. That being said, please note that (during high season) the average age in the party scene is 20-26 years old.
ticket to the moon
Perfect for- the gap year student; the traveller who has spent several months in a remote area and is looking forward to a juicy steak, a good cup of strong coffee and someone to speak their own language with; the package tourist; the traveller who wants to combine party with some quality beach time; anyone under 24 who’s traveling in Asia for the first time.
A piece of advice- get some dark sunglasses for optimal and most discrete people watching. If you’re looking for a Robinson Crusoe experience, don’t choose this Gili.
In a nutshell:it’s the best imagineable summer camp for youngsters, 24 and below.
island rules painted on the wall
Conclusion
Personally, I preferred Gili Air. Although I had a fantastic time in Gili Meno snorkelling with sea turtles, catching up with old friends over a couple cool beers and devouring fresh fish off the BBQ, the island was simply too quiet for me. Gili T on the other hand, I found too busy, too crowded, too commercialised and I could absolutely not connect with the crowd. It’s just not my scene (anymore?). In comparison, Gili air is my kind of perfect. It’s the ultimate island feel featuring the best of both worlds. Of course that’s just my opinion. I’ve heard many travellers claim to have fallen head over heels with Gili Meno and others who swear by the upbeat atmosphere of Gili T. But as the French say, ‘des goûts et des couleurs on ne discute pas’ (there is no accounting for taste)
When I told my friends I was traveling to East Timor, most of them had no idea where it was. Some had never even heard of this country. Understandably, since it has only been an independent country for 11 years. Find out more about it here. The country is located in Southeast Asia, but most SEA travellers skip this destination. Of course, that meant I had to go check it out. There was very little travel information to be found online, so I arrived there with little expectations.
I quickly discovered that East Timor is not a travel destination for everyone. If you’re looking for a cheap and easy Southeast Asia experience, this country is absolutely not for you. Or at least, not yet.
Timor-Leste
East Timor is expensive for a traveler.
At least if you compare to its neighbouring countries. The room rates start at $25 for a very basic, dilapidated double room. There is one backpackers place in the capital Dili, where you’ll pay 12$ for a dorm bed. Again, I’m not talking about fancy dorms…
For food in Dili, you can eat at ‘local canteen style eateries‘ and pay 2-3$ for a full plate of meat/fish, rice and vegetables. Expect 4-5$ at a cheap Indian joint. Go to a basic western looking restaurant and your prices will range from 5$ for a sandwich to 12$ for a fish dish. That’s more than double what you’d pay in Indonesia!
Conclusion: you can economise on food if you want, especially once out of Dili where western restaurants become scarce. However, accommodation will take a big bite out of your budget unless you stay put in Dili. Which brings me to my next point…
It’s hard to get around the country.
There are several towns that have semi-good connections by public transport. There are some ferries and busses/trucks. If you want to get anywhere beyond these places you either need a car (which can be difficult to drive since the roads are in such bad condition) or you need a suitcase full of money. Let me give you an example. Four of us were traveling to a town called “Maubisse”. It took us over 4 hours to drive 70 km. Once there two of the travellers decided to go to the next village so they could climb Mt. Ramelau, the country’s highest peak. This village was located 20km away. The journey took them almost three hours and cost 50$ each, traveling on the back of local motorbikes which broke down every half hour.
Timor-Leste is a small country but you need a lot of time and patience to get around it.
>3 HOUR FERRY TO ATAURO ISLAND (10$ RETURN)not so comfy ride to Maubisse
There’s quasi no tourist infrastructure.
Sure, there are a few dive centres in Dili, some restaurants offering good food, bars with live music during the weekends, a couple of club and a few emerging tour companies, but once you leave the capital, you’re pretty much on your own.
Particularly for a woman traveling solo, it definitely felt that way. Even as an experienced traveler, if I may call myself that, who has been in war zones and post-conflict areas several times, I was set on not traveling around the country all by myself as it felt quite uncomfortable. Therefore I traveled with at least one companion and encountered no problem whatsoever.
There is a huge language barrier.
Although English is one of the official languages, most people don’t speak it nor do they understand it. Same goes with Portuguese. In fact, the locals are quite annoyed saying: “we don’t understand why Portuguese tourists come here and speak to us in Portuguese expecting us to understand what they’re saying. They think we still know their language but the colonial days are long gone…”
If you know some Bahasa Indonesian, you won’t have a problem communicating, as it is the language Timorese are taught in school. Tetum and other indigenous languages are widely spoken, but I assume those are probably not in your language repertoire.
trying to arrange transport without words
That being said,
I LOVED EAST TIMOR
And I loved travelling there. It’s a beautiful destination. Very real, very rough.
Just like the other travellers you’ll meet in your backpackers hostel. You don’t hear the classic “I’m taking x months off to do a RTW/SEA trip” or “I’m on a two week holiday”. Here you meet travellers doing internships for NGO’s, people doing freelance work translating for Chinese business men, people hitchhiking through the Middle East, Africa and Asia for an indefinite amount of time, people with an impressive list of ‘off the beaten track’ destinations like Socotra (Yemen), Albania and Pakistan.
The country and its inhabitants keep on surprising you; the religion, the culture, the people, the landscape… I’ll be posting an entry on that soon.
I’ve made it a point to return to East Timor and use the knowledge I have acquired to discover the country in a more thorough manner AND scuba dive. Can’t wait to watch one of thee amazing sunsets again!
the sun sets over Dili
Had you ever heard of East Timor? Do you like traveling to “difficult” places?
As I write this, I’m lying in the sofa, pants half open, thinking maybe I’ve overdone it. I’m on Pulau Penang, a small island off the coast of Malaysia, connected to the mainland by a 13.7km bridge. Charming! Chinese influence meets western colonial style. And of course there is the lush greenery around every corner, breath taking sunsets and knowing that there is a large body of water not too far away, is always a win, if you ask me.
So why am I slouched in the couch feeling like I’m carrying the love child of grease and sugar.
Well, the other thing Penang is famous for is its food. It is said to be one of the top places to experience ‘Pernakan cuisine’.
As a matter of fact, as I was doing my research on what to do in Penang, most suggestions I got involved food in one way or another.
So, what else could I do but to go on a street food frenzy?!
The hawker culture is such a big part of the local way of life. The food is cheap, tasty and the portions are just right. So off I went…
10 AM: BREAKFAST- DIM SUM
DIM SUM
This place was not on the plan, but the place where I was supposed to have breakfast was quite far away and I needed food FAST! Good dim sum, although I now realise I’m simply not a big ‘dumpling fan’.
11 AM: POST BREAKFAST SNACK- FRIED OYSTERS
FRIED OYSTERS
Deliciously crunchy. I experienced an entirely new texture and flavour. I must admit, I normally don’t like oysters at all- shame on me- but this dish has no connection to the oyster flavour I am accustomed to.
THE MAKING OFTHE MAKING OF
12.15 PM: LUNCH- EEL FISH BALL KOAY TEOW SOUP
eel fish ball soup
What you get is handmade eel fish balls, handmade pork filet and rice noodles swimming in a light and tasty broth garnished with lettuce and fried garlic. I was reluctant to try this one because I’m not too fond of fishballs (they are more or less in the dim sum family). Once again, I was pleasantly surprised by a new set of flavours.
Pitt Street Homemade Fish Ball Koay Teow Th’ng183, Carnarvon Street 9am – 4.30pm. Closed on Sun & Mon
1.30 PM: DESERT/REFRESHMENT- AIS TINKAP
AIS TINKAP
At this point of the day, temperatures arose and I needed a serious cooldown. That is exactly what this drink did. It’s a concoction of shaved ice, coconut water, Indian herbs and rose essence. Texture is added with basil seeds and coconut flesh. I enjoyed this sweet Penang classic.
Tamil Street, Penang12pm to 8pm (Closed on Sundays)
2.30 PM: AFTERNOON SNACK- TROPICAL FRUIT EXTRAVAGANZA
EXOTIC FRUIT
I had planned to go for curry around this time, but the heat was too intense to be eating hot and spicy sauces. I decided to go healthy instead and try some of that alluring exotic fruit that’s omnipresent in the street scene.
I went for the classics: mango, watermelon and pineapple. But I also tried the less familiar ones: starfruit, dragon fruit, guava, water apple and mangosteen.
4.00 PM: EARLY DINNER-CHAR KOAY TEOW
char keow teow
An incredibly rich blend of noodles, fresh veggies, sweet lard, egg, tiny clams and shrimp fried on a strong charcoal flame. As you empty your plate all the flavours really come together, making this dish taste like a greasy touch of heaven. I just HAD TO order seconds!
Located at the end of Siam Road3pm to 11pm (Closed on Mondays)
The stall is insanely popular, the cook get dozens of orders every hour, yet he prepares every order separately so the dish wouldn’t loose its personal touch. Wonderful! This also means I had to wait 30 minutes (twice) to get my food. Absolutely worth it!
I left the hawker stall at 6.00 PM wondering if I was going to keep eating…
6.30 PM: “CAN’T EAT ANYMORE BUT MUST TRY SOMETHING NEW-BREAK”- NUTMEG JUICE
nutmeg juice
Now that is something new! The sign said it was refreshing and rejuvenating, just what I was looking for. It looks a bit strange and that’s also how it tasted. I’m not sure whether I liked this fresh tangy juice or not. It has such a unique and peculiar taste, it’s just something you must try to understand.
Shall I keep eating?
8 PM: DINNER- FAST SUSHI
sushi with cheese
I was tired and in need of some hardcore aircon, so I cave and exchanged one street food meal for a less greasy dinner. I thought I was going for something more familiar, but as it turns out, this sushi was unique in it’s own way. It had a cheese topping. Cheese. Is this normal??
The sushi wasn’t that great, I quickly regretted not having stuck to the street food plan!
Sushi King1st Avenue Mall (LG-71, Underground)
I was meant to go for a “post dinner” meal, but I was DONE. No more. I turned around and left the food scene. What a fantastic day!
