After a quick calculation, I came to the realisation that a day-trip to Macau from Hong Kong would cost me a rough €85 just in transportation costs for two. Woops, this was supposed to be a budget trip! As every so often, I was torn between saving money or discovering a new corner of our planet. During the decision making process -which really only lasted a minute- I found myself wandering: “What’s in Macau anyway? Is it worth blowing my budget over this rarely mentioned destination?”
You tell me…
This is what I found in Macau:
Futuristic scenes
On the way from Macau’s harbour to town, we we’re greeted by futuristic views of the city. My face and hand palms were pressed against the bus window; eyes wide open, lips slightly apart. I could have sworn I had tele-transported to a “city in the clouds” in a distant future. Sure, the smog/mist might have had their effect. Maybe I should lay off the sci-fi films for a while…
Macau in the clouds
Fabulous food
Macanese cuisine is a delicate fusion between Chinese, Portuguese and African flavours. Slow cooked food brought to taste with spices like chili, tumeric, cinnamon, coconut milk… Dishes like Galinha à Africana (African spicy chicken), bacalhau, minchi and pasteis de nata are staples that can easily be found all over Macau. Scrumptious comfort food demonstrating a union between distinct corners of the world, now that’s my cup of tea!
Portuguese BacalhauChinese sweet pork jerkypasteis de nata- I preferred the Portuguese version
Unseen parallels with the old colony, Portugal
Aside from the food, I was stunned by the ubiquitous Portuguese influences. Cute alleys, Portuguese street signs, wide boulevards, fortresses, churches and the familiar European sound of cars driving over cobbled roads… I felt as though I was in Europe; Portugal with a lot of Chinese tourist.
colourful alleywaysa mix of both worldsPortuguese tile muralssunny wide boulevards
Classic Asian elements
Even though you could really believe you’re in Europe, there are enough elements that remind you that, you are indeed still in Asia. Smells, food, photo crazed tourists, Buddhist temples with burning incense, Chinese signs…
special animal partsthe classic asian fan clubtricycle taxi
Lots and lots of gambling
Gambling in Macau has been legal for over a century, alluring big spenders and investors hoping to turn a few dimes into a king’s ransom. Being Asia’s gambling mecca, the casinos are majestic and plentiful. As you walk down the streets, you can almost hear money flying out the windows. Even if you’re not into games of chance, you might enjoy walking around and getting a taste of the atmosphere.
“under the sea”- themed extravaganza at the casinomirrored casino facadelively night sceneGrand Lisboa
A dark sea of tourists
With features like “bling bling” casinos, European flair and delicious food, it’s only natural the city attracts enormous amounts of tourists every day. Most of them come from Mainland China and Hong Kong. On top of that, Macau is the world’s most densely populated place on earth (20 497 people per km²). As you can imagine, it can get quite claustrophobic at times but there is a silver lining: acting shamelessly like a cliché tourist is ok! Take elaborate food pictures, sample local fare for free, strike a ridiculous photo pose wherever, whenever. Nobody cares, everybody’s doing it. Get off the main streets and you’ll find peace and quiet.
where’s Waldo?
Macau is the kind of place you wouldn’t choose as your main travel destination, nonetheless it is certainly worth a visit, regardless of the price tag. Curiosity is what drove me to Macau and I wasn’t disappointed. So should you take a side trip from Hong Kong or Mainland China to visit Macau? For me, that’s a yes. What about you,
While I spent quite some time browsing through inspiring pictures and reading many informative articles about Hong Kong, the city still managed to surprise me in several ways.
1. Dim sum heaven
For someone who doesn’t even like dim sum, I was amazed to hear myself say: “Let’s have dim sum for breakfast-lunch-dinner… Yes, again!” I can now say pretentious things like: “I only eat dim sum in HK”. Hong Kong boasts a ton of Michelin starred dim sum at affordable prices. Famous chefs and renowned magazines/newspapers award prizes to their favourite dim sum places. I wanted to try them all but unfortunately, my stomach doesn’t stretch that far.
Michelin star dim sumglutenous beef fatsteamed meet balls at “One Dim Sum”, tastes much better than it looks!Douglas vs. Anthony Bourdain
2. Antique shopping in the morning
Arriving in Hong Kong, all I could see were tall buildings; banks, offices theatres, malls apartments… The city has such a modern feel to it, I certainly wasn’t expecting to stumble upon quaint alleyways lined with potted plants, cute stairways and rows of knickknack and antiques stalls. Even though I promised myself not to do any shopping in HK -yeah, right- I couldn’t resist purchasing just a few trinkets.
treasure huntnear “Hollywood road”
3. The goldfish market
At first, it was all excitement seeing the thousands of goldfish racked throughout the long street. Then I felt uncomfortable seeing all the helpless creatures bumping their foreheads against the plastic windows. But then again… it’s local culture and tradition, does that change anything? The goldfish are bought as good luck charms, but they’re also important for good feng shui in a home. In this area, you can find more than just fish… There are frogs, shrimp, turtles, birds, hamsters, rabbits… Basically, it’s the pets neighbourhood.
long street full of “good luck charms”creepy frogsfree goldie?
4. Helpful, friendly, non-smiling locals
On several occasions, locals stopped their fast paced treads to ask if we needed help -I admit we looked baffled and lost at times. They would ask us the question, we’d answer thinking a small chat starring “where are you from” would follow, but no… They’d resume their default lives only a split second after we’d state we weren’t actually lost. No smile, no “bye”… they’d just off. I liked it: friendly, to the point and no bullsh*t.
5. Egg waffles
Best eaten warm and plain, the eggette is the most popular street food in Hong Kong. Because they are hollow, I thought it wouldn’t be of my liking- I’m quite difficult when it comes to deserts. I can tell you this: I was already ordering seconds while my mouth was still full with the first bite. This egg waffle really hits the spot after a long day in the city! Simple flavour, light and not too sweet… Give me some more bubble waffles!
crunchy egg waffle
6. Chinese tea traditions
Ok, this wasn’t really a surprise, I knew of the existence of the Chinese art of tea. Yet, I had never seen it with my own eyes. The elegance and refinement in which the Chinese lady poured us a cup of Oolong was so captivating I kept pulling out more teas from the rack for “tasting”… If you’re really into tea, you can book a tea tasting tour where you’ll learn more about the process and traditions. If you just want a taste of the magic, you can walk into a traditional tea store and ask to sample some teas. It’s free, but of course you are expected to buy some brew after an elaborate tasting.
Oolong, the traditional wayChinese tea
7. Double dekker trams
A perfect fusion between the red British buses and the portuguese trams. I marvelled at the city as the tram unveiled its busy streets and quiet neighbourhoods. Hop on hop off anywhere you want with the octopus card, which I strongly suggest you buy if you’ll be spending a couple of days in and around the city. It gives you access to the metro, busses, trams… You can even use it to pay at connivence stores.
driving through the financial districtview from the top of the tram
8. Hygiene comes first
This is definitely not China! Not only are the streets tidy and organised, there are signs everywhere reminding you that certain things/areas are disinfected several times a day. With such a high population density, I can only applaud it ! Public spaces offer free hand sanitizer and public toilets are clean. It’s no Singapore, but still, it would put any germaphobe at ease.
“germ free” escalators
9. The main attractions are kinda lame
At least, the ones I saw were. The avenue of stars where-amongst others- the famous Bruce Lee statue stands, was filled with pushy loud tourists, making it hard to enjoy the Hong Kong skyline. At the same place, there is a free laser and sound show (the symphony of lights) every evening which is promoted as “spectacular”. The first 30 seconds were impressive… but after that I shrugged my shoulders and kept walking. I promise, it’s not because I’m spoiled, HK expats told me the same thing. Maybe they’re spoiled too? Still worth checking it out, just don’t expect “spectacular”.
everybody wants their picture with the life sized Bruce Leeromantic junk boats
10. Lots of funny random stuff
I was expecting more kitsch and “Hello Kitty”, but apparently, to get more of that, one needs to go to the “Mainland”, which is how locals refer to China. So no real culture shock, but still, I had a few giggles not really understanding things and wondering… “WHY?”
rich birds order fancy food?restaurant staff on a break. I actually thought this was a show and that they would burst out singing and dancing. Nope, just nappingin a hip (grown up) accessory store… I’m lost, do any of you know this?instant Brazilian butt lift, just 3$ at the marketMufasa now serves as a backpack
Which destination has surprised you? Is Hong Kong on your ‘wish list”?
The past 7 years I’ve been so lucky to celebrate the start of a new life year abroad, either doing something exciting or lazing in the shade of a coconut tree. Because this year was so different, I thought I’d look back on those past birthdays.
Turning…
…22! Stargazing in Liechtenstein’s Alps
As wild camping is legal in Liechtenstein, my then boyfriend and I made our way to the Alps. We pitched a tent in a beautiful meadow and spent the evening celebrating under the stars with bubbles and smoked salmon. It was my first time camping in the wild and I loved being totally isolated in nature. Though I must admit, there were moments at night where I was convinced a mad serial killer was scratching our tent… Tsss, city girls…
the Alps…bubbles and salmon“bathing” in nature
…23! Exploring Marrakech and its bazaars
A birthday in the old city of Marrakech was a perfect ending to a two week trip through South Morocco and Western Sahara. We exchanged our dusty desert clothes for urban wear and spent the evening bargaining in the souk and sampling Moroccan wines on rooftop bars.
Djema el-Fna from rooftopthe damage
…24! Solo in Egypt
Instead of flying straight home after a conference in Egypt, I prolonged my stay to see as much of the country as I possibly could. Birthdays are usually spent with friends and/or family, but that time, it was just me. I was proud to be a 24-year-old assertive and mature enough to ‘survive’ the chaos of Caïro. I was proud to be fit enough to climb Mount Sinai for the sunrise. I was proud to be brave enough to travel solo in an unknown, male-dominant country. I felt lucky to have the freedom to do what I was doing.
fighting off touts around the pyramidsloving solo travelHoly Mount Sinai
…25! On a 40 hour train ride across India
Being crammed on a stuffy Indian train might be one of my most unglamorous birthdays . A group of Indian men sitting on the bed opposite mine, staring at my every move. Rats sprinting across the wagon, passengers loudly clearing their noses by spitting everywhere, toilet floors inundated with urine… It wasn’t much of a celebration, but rather an extremely long two days to get through. After the 40 hour ride, I was treated to a huge cake and beautiful views over Udaipur.
I can stare right back…delicious personalised birthday cakeUdaipur
…26! Searching for the best “pasteis” and Port in Portugal
What a road trip; driving from city to city and around the country side, sampling on all the goodness Portugal has to offer. Learning about the Portuguese cuisine and culture was my gift to myself.
Port wine served with a selection of fine cheesespasteis for the roadBelèm
…27! Love Cake in Kathmandu
We stalled our big hike in the Himalayas to get mentally ready for the trek. So I spent this birthday in Kathmandu visualising myself on the top of a mountain. I can’t remember specific details about that day except… Except the love cake… A famous chocolate cake that has been mentioned as a must-try since the 70’s hippie trail. I wasn’t expecting much -as usual when it comes to chocolate anything outside of Western Europe- but my mind was blown. I was utterly quiet for a few minutes, couldn’t believe I just tasted what I did. Pure bliss! I must admit, my opinion might have been influenced by the fact that I had been eating nothing but flavourless “dahl bhat” and instant noodles for two weeks, but either way, to this day I still think of the Love cake as my favourite chocolate cake EVER!
KathmanduLove Cake
…28! By the pool in Myanmar
With temperatures reaching 40°C, there wasn’t much else to do than lie by the pool in Bagan. Temple visits in the mornings and evenings, cooling off in the swimming pool during the day. A lazy 28th. I was surprised with a gorgeous and elaborate cake… with zero flavour -unless ‘fat’ counts as a flavour. I ended up splitting donating the entire cake to the staff members.
the only way to deal with heatmisleading cakeenjoying a good view
…29! Cheese and wine with family
This year no palm trees, no temples and no exotic food, but something that’s at least just as good, maybe even better: stinky cheese and red wine with my family in Belgium. It might not be a dream destination, but it’s exactly where I want to be!
What about you, is celebrating your birthday at home a “must”?
There is a great misconception that Bali is just another tourist mecca full of beautiful clichés. Granted, there is a great deal of mass tourism, but there is so much more to it than that. Finding authenticity is a walk in the park and going off the beaten track is just as easy. Quirks are plentiful and one needn’t look far to find some. Besides the cultural oddities, there are tonnes of fun off-beat activities you can participate in. These are my favourite quirky things to do in Bali.
1. Mud wrestling under a full moon at the Green school
The greenest school on earth lies somewhere between rice fields and Balinese villages. Built entirely out of bamboo, the Green School boasts an endangered bird rehabilitation program, an organic vegetable garden grown by its students, an enormous crystal radiating positive energy on the playground, a natural swimming pool and… a mud pit. Students, teachers and visitors regularly engage in playful mud wrestling tournaments. Several times a year, a “Mepantigan full moon performance” is held on the school grounds. Mepantigan is a traditional act combining Balinese martial art, fire dance, drama and music. Those who don’t mind getting their clothes dirty, can join the mud fun after the performance.
playing in the mud. Mind the school’s horse in the background. Photo by Ana Baranova
Even if you’re not lucky enough to be in town during the mud fight, I recommend visiting the Green School anyway. A sustainable international school running on solar energy with “a vision of a natural, holistic, student-centered learning environment that empowers and inspires its students to be creative, innovative, green leaders.” A school so incredibly cool, you’d want to turn into a kid just to attend. Visit their website to find out more or to book a tour.
we could all learn something at the green school
2. Party hard… and sober on a Sunday morning
Every Sunday, Ubud’s most popular yoga spot organises a smashing Sunday Dance. Starting at 11AM, expats, locals and visitors come together to party like there is no tomorrow. People let go and let lose, moving their bodies to the music in which ever way they feel like, expressing themselves through movement. There is screaming, crying, laughter, sweaty hugs, glitter… Anything goes. There is only one rule: no talking. As the dance progresses, the music gets more intense and the dancers feed on each other’s energies. Unbelievably powerful!I’ve added this to the list of quirky things because, if you only ever danced in amongst a crowd at a club or at a party and preferably in slightly intoxicated condition, your first minutes there can feel quite awkward and bizarre. As soon as you realise nobody is there to observe or judge, you loose your inhibitions naturally. Put on a smile, dance and spend the rest of your day on cloud nine.
good vibes on Sunday morning
3. Laugh your head off during a laughing yoga session
Laughter strengthens your immune system, boosts your energy, diminishes pain and protects you from the damaging effects of stress. This is the mantra that inspires the biweekly laughing yoga gatherings in Ambar Ashram. Imagine a grass field covered with 100 Balinese on a yoga mat, laughing themselves silly. Doesn’t that sound like the place to be?! Even though it’s a local activity and the spoken language is Indonesian, foreigners are more than welcome… Laughter knows no language. There’s more to the class than laughter, but I don’t want to reveal any spoilers. Classes are free and last an hour. Bring a yoga mat if you have one and leave with a relaxed mind and body!
I haven’t gone mad, I consciously wrote “cat poop coffee”. That’s right, Kopi Luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world, is actually “civet cat poop coffee”. Some explanation… As night falls, wild civets roam around the “Luwak “coffee plantations to feed on the plants’ best coffee beans. The civets having partially digested the beans, excrement them around the plantation. The farmers then search for and pick up the stools. Once dry, the remaining beans are picked out by hand, then peeled and roasted. The result: world’s most exclusive coffee.“Is it any good?”, you want know… Well I’ve heard mixed reviews: some find it exquisite, others find it too bland. It’s not a coffee that will have you bouncing off the walls, but I enjoyed its mildness. It definitely doesn’t taste as gross as the title could have you thinking, but I’m not sure it’s worth the €6/100gr to me.
coffee eating civet, sadly encaged as a show piece for touristsdried civet feceskopi luwak- cat poop coffee
5. For women only: enjoy a steam sauna… for your most intimate organ
This one actually originates from a traditional Javanese beauty and bridal ritual. I’ll keep the story short.Just before marriage or after giving birth, Javanese women undergo a cleansing ritual. Only wearing a sarong, the women are seated on a chair with a hole. In that hole lies a clay plot with heated charcoal and herbs creating rising fog which “cleans” the women’s private parts.This procedure called “ratus”, is also practiced in Bali and is available in local spa’s. You don’t need to be a bride to enjoy the Javanese beauty secret. Now every adventurous woman can give it a go. It takes about 45minutes and in some modern spa’s you will get a shoulder massage while you get “steamed”. My ratus experience was a very pleasant one. After feelings of awkwardness sitting half-naked on a smoking chair, came relaxation and bliss. I felt rejuvenated and fresh. To be repeated! I underwent the treatment at Midas Spa in Ubud.
get the picture?
These are just a few of the unusual things to do in Bali. Plenty more to discover throughout the island and the entire country!
When some friends announced their upcoming months long trip to Nepal, I was immediately transported back to its colourful streets clouded with incense. As soon as I arrived home, I browsed through my photo collection to relive my Nepalese journey. I could almost feel the fresh mountain air filling up my lungs and hear a distant “Ohm-ing”. I thought about the captivating myths and stories on super natural beings and Buddhist/Hindu gods.
Originally, Nepal wasn’t my destination of choice, if it was up to me, I would have chosen to dance samba and drink caipirinhas in Rio, but I was expected on the other side of the world, so I put my wish on hold. I wasn’t particularly psyched to explore Nepal, it was the exact opposite of what I was craving; passion, beaches and loud uplifting music. Despite having heard only great things about the “roof of the world”, I expected to be bored with all that peace and serenity -sometimes I wonder who the hell I was…
I never regretted going to Nepal, it was a destination that surprised me in many ways. Looking back at the pictures now, I start dreaming of going back. I’ve seen most of the attractions, so I’d just go back to… BE. I should only be so lucky to catch a whiff of that pure, crisp air!
serenity in the morningwise “Baba” giving blessings and life advicemorning prayersanimal sacrifice as part of religionprayer flagsBoudhanath in Kathmandulaundry in the cloudsenchanted forestfinding religion on the summit of a mountainThe Himalayaslake in Pokharasoaking up the energy around the templesprayers wheelsclassic-and illegal- mode of transportation: on bus rooftopschildren making offeringsguardians of the templesriding the elephant temple guard
Is Nepal on your wish list or are you indifferent? If you’ve been, what did you think?
Maybe I should start by answering the question “where is Sulawesi”. Among the 6000 inhabited islands of Indonesia, lies Sulawesi, one of the country’s largest. Announcing we were off to explore Sulawesi, my friends and I all got the same puzzled reaction: “Oh, how lovely… What’s in Sulawesi?” To be honest, I wasn’t quite sure when we left. I had read a couple of thing here and there, but it was a big question mark to me as well.
So here’s is what I found on the island of Sulawesi
1. Jaw dropping landscapes
Mist rolling over hills and valleys, tiny motorways crossing vast plains of rice fields, rugged cliffs, jungles, volcanoes, beaches… Diverse landscapes lending themselves perfectly for hikes and motorbike rides.
around the hillsblack sand beachdriving a motorbike
2. Tana Toraja- remarkable culture and architecture
Land of the Torajan people. Emerge yourself in the fascinating culture of the Toraja in the southern half of the island. Torajans welcome guests to discover their unique culture and beliefs. I know the word “unique” is often used too loosely to describe pretty much anything, but if there was ever a correct description for this culture, unique would be the one! I found their “death-centric way of life” particularly interesting.
traditional Torajan jewelleryat a Torajan funeralarchitecture
3. Gorgeous deserted islands
The Togean islands for example… If you keep in mind the effort to get there- we drove and sailed for 2 days, non-stops- it will not come as a shock that there is no phone or internet connection on the tiny islands. Great as a digital detox or just a relaxing few days of beach, snorkel, eat, sleep, repeat.
mangrove beach in Bunakenbeach crabs everywhereromance returns when technology disappears…
4. A dark side
As mentioned above, death is everywhere around you in Southern Sulawesi. Not in creepy, dangerous way, but as a natural, celebrated part of life. Every now and then you stumble upon a collection of century old bones and coffins. Bodies are buried in cliffs and caves, skeletons are given cigarettes and money. Sometimes I imagined myself on the set of a gothic music video.
surprised by these century old skullscigarettes for the dead
5. Top notch underwater scenery
Prepare to redefine your perception of colour… Some of the brightest, most colourful coral and fish can be found in Sulawesi. Despite the years of dynamite fishing in the area, there is still a considerable amount of intact coral. The fishes’ patterns, textures and colour schemes inspire a mental creation of a new wardrobe. Such a pity I’m not a designer!
For the experienced who have had their share of coral gazing and would like to see a different kind of marine habitat, the Lembeh straight offers some world class muck diving opportunities. Snorkel in Bunaken, muck dive in Lembeh and dive around the Togean islands.
unfortunately I don’t own a waterproof camera (yet?), so this is the best I can show you. Togean islands
6. Tarsiers
If you ask me, they are the cutest primates on this planet. Sulawesi houses tarsiers in two of their national parks. We tracked them down with a guide at the crack of dawn in Tangkoko National Park. My nine year old self gave me a big “high five” for seeing them in real life… Childhood dreams come true!
tarsier back in his sleeping tree after a night of huntingaren’t they cute?
7. A new cuisine to try out
The cuisine in Sulawesi has its own personality. Sure, you can find your typical “mie goreng” or “nasi campur”, but an abundance of traditional dishes are waiting to be sampled. Vegetarians/vegans beware: Sulawesi dishes are heavy in meats or fish, so you’ll have a hard time finding something other than rice to eat- the rice is exquisite though. I tried “pa’piong”, a Torajan speciality: meat (or fish) with vegetables and traditional black spice, slow cooked in a bamboo tube over an open fire. Incredibly strong and distinct flavours!
exciting new spices to try…doesn’t look very appetising but worth a try: pa’piong with black rice
8. Jellyfish lake
On the Togean islands you will find a lake full of stingless colourful jellyfish. You can swim with them, observe them while snorkelling. There are supposedly only three lakes in the world where this is possible! The jellyfish have no natural predators in those waters therefore they’ve lost their traditional defence mechanism, which makes them harmless to you, swimmer. It’s a magnificent experience. I quote my dear husband: “it’s like swimming in a lake full of boobs”.
foto by Nao Nishimiya
9. A Buffalo and Pig market
Admittedly, this is a rather strange attraction, but definitely worth a visit. I was so impressed I could hardly think. The noises, the smells, the fact that everyone else seemed so much at ease while I was fearing for my life (not really)… I find it enriching to challenge my views of what is “acceptable behaviour”, in this case behaviour towards cattle. Again, maybe not a good idea for vegetarians/vegans…
walking amongst the buffalosfarmer selling his pigs
10. Beautiful national parks, home to endangered species: crested black macaque
There are many national parks with impressive fauna and flora. One of the parks is home to the critically endangered crested black macaque. I must say, I had no idea how bad the situation was. These apes are literally on the verge of extinction, even more so than tigers, orang utans or rhinos!
curly rootsshameless macaque photographclimbing a 2000 year old tree
11. Fantastic coffee
The plantations lie in the Torajan highlands and produce a coffee bean that is good enough to be internationally distributed as ‘gourmet coffee’. The premium beans can hardly be found in the rest of the country, they are reserved for export, but we found a restaurant that was serving premium Torajan coffee (Cafe Aras in Rantepao). WOW! If you can’t make it to Sulawesi, why not try a cup of their coffee in your country?
local coffee
Things to keep in mind
Sulawesi is not a cheap destination. Transportation is either extremely uncomfortable or pricey. Prices for meals are slightly higher than in Java or in Bali. If you are planning on diving, which is recommended, don’t forget to include that in your budget as well. Most dives are priced at 30US$. Accommodation on the smaller islands start at 20US$ per person, not per room (!) and include three meals.
To travel in Sulawesi means to wait around a lot. Slow travel is key if you want to see the island. The attractions are scattered around, which creates “dead days” between two attractions; days of travel or waiting for a connection. Take your time or travel by plane. There are 6 airports on the islands: Makassar (South) and Manado (North) being the biggest ones.
Had I known what I know now, I would have brought to the islands: a frisbee or a ball, a bottle of quality rum to make cocktails which are not served in Togean and extremely expensive in Bunaken. I would have brought more reading material– one novel wasn’t enough and some good snacks from the mainland– I was often hungry before dinner was served and got tired of eating the cookies from the only shop on the island.
Have you heard of Sulawesi as a tourist destination? Would you consider going?
Not exactly the question you’d expect when stepping out of a long distance bus… And yet, what this man was proposing, is quite normal in Tana Toraja. In fact, funerals are the “main attraction” in the region. Visitors mostly come to learn about the Torajan culture in which death happens to play a central role. The Torajans are known for their elaborate traditional funeral rites. Tana Toraja, which means land of the Toraja people, is located in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.
arriving in Tana Toraja, Sulawesi
Intrigued by this culture, we agreed to the invitation and headed to the funeral only minutes after dropping our bags at the hotel. Luther, our guide, advised us to gift a few packs of cigarettes to the mourning family. “Cigarettes”? How ironic. He also told us we were verylucky; we were going to the funeral of a very rich lady who had long been chief of village…
“Lucky”? What a confusing use of words…
The deceased lady’s family welcomed us warmly and insisted we’d sit with them. We were offered tea and biscuits while encouraged to chat about our countries. This was all very awkward. The taboo around death in Western cultures was clearly nowhere to be found around here.
The Torajans seemed very “relaxed” about it all. That might have something to do with the fact that when people pass, they are not buried straight away. Their families continue to work in order to gather all necessary funds to finance the funeral. It may take months or years before the burying rituals begin, depending on the family’s cash flow.
Meanwhile, the bodies are embalmed, wrapped in cloth and kept in their traditional houses or ‘tongkonan’, under the same roof with their kin. Their spirits then dwell around the village until the burial. The dead aren’t considered dead, but merely ‘incurably ill’ until the funeral is complete. They are treated as though they were still alive. Family members take turns in sitting with the body, brining it food, water and cigarettes on a daily basis. Not doing so would lead the deceased to think they aren’t cared about and he/she would bring bad luck to the village.
tongkonans
In Torajan culture, the funeral is the most important ceremony in life. One leads his life in order to have the biggest, most elaborate funeral possible. The 100 or more guests always bring a gift: cigarettes, rice, a pig or a buffalo according to their financial ability. The funeral lasts 11 days and consists of serval rites.
highly prized buffalo being gifted to the familychanting and dancingbuffalo fighting is part of the funeral ritesa procession of the closest family membersspiritual men lead the procession
Torajan funerals are a bloody affair. The deceased’s soul is believed to travel to the afterlife on a buffalo or horse. How do you bring livestock to your afterlife? By sacrificing it, of course. Therefore, the more buffalo offered, the more reassured the family will be that their loved ones will reach his or her final destination safely. Apart from buffaloes, the dead will also need to bring along their most valuable possessions, including the rest of their livestock. This is one of the most important funeral rites: pigs and buffaloes are slaughtered by the dozens. Their souls join their owners while their flesh is distributed with the living family and guests. How’s that for a party favour, a big bag of meat…
gifted pigsthe meat is shared amongst guest and the blood is kept in bamboo
Because buffaloes come with a high price tag, their horns are cut off and kept as a “trophy”. They are hung up on the deceased tongkonan and represent the family’s wealth. The more horns on your house, the wealthier your family.
small buffalo hornstongkonan of a wealthy family
When the funeral is completed the bodies are buried. Not under the ground, but in a cave or in a hole carved in a cliff. Family members craft a “tau-tau”; what could be compared to an avatar, representing the deceased. His/her spirit is believed to inhabit the tau-tau. They are placed on a balcony in front of the graves. Several times a year, after the rice harvest, family members ask their ancestors, inhabiting the tau-tau, for well being, good crops and healthy children.
graves in the clifftau-tau and gravestau-tau; meaning not human, nor puppet.more live like tau-tau
The burying ritual for babies is less complex. The lifeless babies are embalmed and placed in a sitting position in a carved hole of a large tree. The type of tree used a for the burying is a specific one; a thick white fluid oozes from its bark when cut. The fluid symbolises the milk the tree will feed the young child with. It embraces the babies by growing around them and closing the hole. It becomes their mother. These trees are considered sacred and may not be approached by outsiders but we were allowed to visit an old tree which is no longer in use.
baby graves
Attending a funeral is weirdly enough, a top attraction in Tana Toraja. I found it such an incredible enrichment to experience how this culture deals with death and what place it has in their communities. Watching the slaughtering was bit harsh, however that’s easily put into perspective since it’s so authentic. This is not some show put on for tourists, this is Torajan reality. People are so friendly and open, I quickly felt at ease.
‘Funeral season’ is in July and August, but there are funerals throughout the year. Tourists are welcome to attend them and are treated as honoured guests. Make sure you bring a gift to the family! There isn’t really a dress code, but obviously you should dress modestly and respectfully. If you have a black t-shirt, wear it; you’ll fit right in. The city of Rantepao is a good base to explore Tana Toraja.
Would animal sacrificing stop you from attending a local ritual?
Who doesn’t love a smashing new year’s party? What if I told you this party lasts a few days, takes place in the sunny outdoors and involves insane amounts of water… That’s Thingyan, the water festival leading to the Burmese New Year. The festival takes place throughout Myanmar around mid april, during the country’s hottest period. Similar waterfestivals are celebrated in the neighbouring buddhist countries Thailand, Laos (Songkran) and Cambodia (Chaul Chnam Thmey).
We were lucky enough to be in Myanmar for Thingyan. It’s the most important public holiday in the country and we were told that the best place to celebrate, is in the capital. So we set off to Yangon a couple of days before the festival as there is very limited transportation during the festival.
I hadn’t expected the water festival to be a big deal. Boy, was I wrong! It started in the taxi on the way to the centre. The driver had covered the seats and dashboard with plastic.
stupidly thinking I stood a chance with my super soaker…
I asked him: “why is you car completely covered in pla…”
SPLASH!
An excited young man standing by the side of the road had just emptied a full bucket of ice water over my head. The taxi driver roared with laughter. “Happy happy?” he asked.
“Yes, happy…” I replied startled.
And so the tone was set…
ready for Thingyan
Although there is water thrown around absolutely everywhere, all the time -walking down the street in dry clothes is impossible- there are several areas where entertainment is provided. Most tourists found their way to the main square where a stage was set up featuring traditional dancers and water hoses. The dancing was beautiful but compared to what was going on in other parts of town this was quite boring.
THE place to be for Thingyan in Yangon is at theKandawgyi Lake. That’s where all the cool kids go. It’s fun, loud, and utter madness. Dozens of temporary water spraying stations are set up and double as dance stages. Pop and electro music blares from the speakers as the people dance, play and sing under what can only be described as the world’s largest shower. Every two steps a cheerful Burmese shakes your hand and asks “happy happy?”. You reply “happy happy!”.
world’s largest shower (1.5km long)
Every single person is soaking wet and carries some kind of container filled with water. When you’re not standing under the “mega shower” someone empties their container over you and simultaneously wishes you a ‘Happy New Year’.
The water is pumped out of the lake and is flowing morning to sunset, non-stop. Hoses used to soak festivalgoers vary from regular garden hoses to fire hoses! At some point I was even sprayed down with a high-pressure washer which was quiet painful. But it’s for a good cause: thefestival is held to wash away evil deeds, bad luck and sins from the past year before entering the new. Many of the adolescents take advantage of the more or less ‘free pass’ to commit some last minute “sins”. Drinking in public, walking hand in hand with their crushes, dressing and dancing provocatively…
the cool kids in town
Black Culture, organiser of one of the spraying stations, invited us to party on their dance floor. The DJ played some good beats and we mingled with the teenagers, hosing down passers-by. It reminded me of the City Parade, plus shower.
from the spraying platformon the dance/hose down stage, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineauparty at Black Culture, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau
The enthusiasm, excitement and happiness of the people were mind blowing. But then again, not really… This is the only time a year where the Burmese government permits crowds to gather in public areas. It’s the only time where colour, rank and status have little or no significance. Everyone is included; kids, grand-parents, business men in suits, tourists, bus drivers…
hiding under dad’s coat
The Burmese usually come across as soft-spoken, shy people, however, during Thingyan, they change into a fun-loving, outgoing crowd. Seeing this metamorphosis -maybe partly due to their alcohol consumption- is one of the things I enjoyed most about the water festival.
joking around with local women, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau
The festival lasts 3 to 5 days and the parties are mainly during day light. After sunset the participants return home and get a good night’s rest to resume the festivities the following day.
ending a fun day with a sleeping smile, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau
TIPS
It’s important to really participate. Let go of your inhibitions and dance, jump, party… Get in there, allow people to talk to you. Go just as nuts as they do!
Those wanting to take a break from the madness or wish to take it easy, there are funfairs and (wet) food stands around the premises.
greasy snacks
Don’t forget to protect your camera and other tech stuff from the water!
If you do manage to take a train or bus during Thingyan, don’t think your safe. You will get hosed down in there too!
Celebrate Thingyan in 2014 from Sunday April 13th to Wednesday April 16th.
Have you heard of Thingyan? Would you enjoy such a festival?
