Category: Destinations

The Best of Palawan, Philippines. Part I.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I recently vacationed in Palawan, a gorgeous island province of the Philippines. Its natural beauty and its remarkable people blew me away. Words can’t begin to explain the experience, but I hope some of these pictures can, to some extent. So, here is part I of the best things in Palawan.

In no particular order,

What makes Palawan so great?

1. El Nido’s rock formations

Limestone spikes emerging from azure waters against a backdrop of lush greenery; that’s what you see when venturing in the bays around El Nido town. Astonishing!

Heart Island, El Nido

2. Kinilaw

It’s a popular dish throughout the Philippines, but particularly available in Palawan. Diced fresh fish or shrimp, gently cooked by the acid of its marinade; vinegar and calamansi (or lime) juice. Finished off with spices and herbs; salt, pepper, garlic, onion and chillies, it’s the Asian version of ‘ceviche’. It’s served cold and is the perfect lunch or starter. Every restaurant adds a personal touch to the recipe, which makes it different each time you order the dish. I ate my weight in kinilaw and I never got bored of it!

non-stop kinilaw

3. Being in Palawan during low season

Going to Palawan during low season, means the weather is not at its best. I was worried we would spend our entire vacation playing cards in our rooms waiting for the endless rain to stop. After all, we are talking about typhoon season here. Although it did rain almost every other day, the showers usually lasted between 20 minutes and two hours. Except for a few cloudy days, the sun shone brightly enough to burn my skin several times.

The best part about low season though, is the tiny amount of tourists on the island. We had most of the attractions all to ourselves! I strongly dislike all-in group tours, but we had no other choice than to book a couple, to save a few bucks. What a wonderful surprise it was, to find out the ‘group’ consisted of just Douglas and I. A private boat for the price of a 15 pax shared one?! That’s worth withstanding some rain! Low season also ensures cheaper hotel prices and the good deals are just waiting to be made! If you’re on a budget and like to escape the crowds, low season is the time to go! If you can handle the occasional tropical storm, that is…

tropical storm brewing up

typhoon sea

4. BBQ-lunches on the beach

With every island hopping trip, whether it’s private or in group, a lunch stop on one of the islands is included. The boat crew whips out some charcoal, a couple of fishes, fruits, veggies, some meat and transforms that into a scrumptious meal. And here I was thinking (knowing?) that organised tours only serve you mediocre to horrible food! Everything is freshly prepared on the boat, or on the island beach. A delicious barbecued lunch on a deserted beach, what else could you ask for?

BBQ on the beach

buffet

5. Kayangan lake- Coron island

How about a refreshing swim in what is said to be one of the cleanest lakes in Asia? The lake’s cool turquoise water is a mixture of fresh and salt water and is one of the seven enchanted lakes of Coron. Yes, I wrote ‘enchanted’. The indigenous Tagbanua tribe believes that spirits use to dwell here and therefore performed rituals to transfer these spirits to larger lakes. You can now enjoy a tranquil, spirit-free swim and enjoy the scenery. Very important tip: make sure you arrive here early in the morning, before the big masses of tourists do!

Kayangan lake

view from the top

6. The simple life

Life in Palawan is slow and simple. People spend a lot of time with family and friends, taking each day as it comes. It’s contagious. The “tomorrow is another day “-attitude and the “what will be, will be” -philosophy, makes you unwind and slow down. You think about what’s important in life, appreciate the good things you have while realising you don’t know how long it’s all going to last. It’s a typical island attitude from which we could all learn a little. That makes Palawan also attractive for the spirit.

boat washed up in a tree, but it’s all good…

7. The religion

As you may or may not know, the Philippines are, for the most part, a catholic country. I must say, it was very refreshing to see signs of Christianity again after being in Asia for 6 months. Not that I’m tired of pagoda’s, stuppah’s, mosques, temples and ashrams, it just feels so familiar to be surrounded by (kitsch) Maria statuettes, big crosses, people saying grace before a meal and church bells on a sunday morning. Who would have thought?

JC

countryside gate

8. The rice fields

Palawan is not all beaches, lakes and waterholes. There are also bright green rice fields all over the island, diffusing some sort of serenity. Although it’s not particularly THE place to be in The Philippines for impressive rice terraces and rice fields, they’re beautiful nonetheless. The greenery is a nice change from the beach scene. Take a walk around or drive through the countryside and take in the fields zooming by.

little house in the rice field

perfect for a walk

9. Wreck diving

More than 20 Japanese ships sunk in the waters of Palawan during WWII. The entities where death once prevailed are now full of life. Coral has incrusted the ship decks and marine life has found a perfect nook to create their biotopes in. Some shipwrecks are as deep as 40m others lie as shallow as 10m deep and are perfectly snorkleable. Although we didn’t see much marine activity during our shipwreck dives, floating from one room to the next with a tiny torch in the hand was an intense experience. 100% Jacques Cousteau- feel.

ready for discovery

wreck diving

10. Drop dead gorgeous beaches

I’ve seen a lot of paradise beaches, but these… These are without a doubt, in my top 3 list! Perfect for cliché photo shoots!

approaching helicopter beach

with a backdrop like that, who could resist a photo shoot?

Stay tuned for part II with more great things about Palawan!

Have you ever heard of Palawan?

The post “The Best of Palawan, Philippines. Part I.” first appeared on Travel Cake.

October 6, 2013
My Top Ten Experiences in Israel

In no particular order:

1. Shabbat dinner with an Israeli family

After more or less getting kicked off the market place by the orthodox jewish man blowing his “you better close your shop coz it’s Shabbat”-horn, we headed to our Israeli friends’s home where we were welcomed with an extensive and delicious Shabbat dinner. We learned about Shabbat practices and rituals. If you’re heading to Israel: get yourself invited for Shabbat!

announcing shabbat

Shabbat dinner

2. Bicycling in Tel Aviv

It’s certainly the best way of exploring the city. Especially during Shabbat when there is significantly less traffic. The city is flat and features long bicycle lanes and cycling routes that lead you to the city’s highlights or allow you to enjoy the back alleys. Cruising the empty streets and beach boulevard while the warm sun caresses your shoulders and the wind gently re-styles your hair, I can’t think of anything more pleasant to do in a big city. Stop anywhere interesting for a snack, a drink or a power nap.

beach boulevard

3. Tel Aviv’s hip but laid back night life

Semi-spontaneous rooftop parties, clubs you may enter wearing flip flops and quirky underground bars with retro ms. Pac-man machines. That’s the kind of nightlife I enjoy! Everyone is out doing what they like, not caring about what you’re doing or how you’re dressed. I mean how many clubs allow you to enter while carrying a huge backpack?

clubbing in backpack

4. Daily doses of hummus, falafel and charcoal grilled meat

Not a single day went by without consuming one of these staples, preferably all of them. Why? Because they’re just that tasty! I’m usually not the biggest hummus or falafel fan, but I quickly realised that what I knew as hummus and falafel, were just the ugly stepsisters of the real thing. Don’t even get started on the grilled meat…

hummus and falafel

5. Wandering the streets of Jerusalem’s old city

Despite the massive amounts of tourists, there are still plenty of back streets to be discovered by the independent traveller. There is a unusual yet calm and somewhat charged atmosphere hanging around the old city. Almost as if you could feel the weight of a thick millennia old history book pressing on you. At times, once away from the crowds, you get the impression you’ve stepped back 2000+ years. I hardly visited any churches/buildings. Just strolling through the quiet streets had a much greater impact on me.

quiet streets of the old city

6. Watching the religious and pilgrims reaching spiritual bliss in Jerusalem

Muslim, Jewish or Christian, people from all three religions have a good reason to pilgrim to Jerusalem. Christians flock to The Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus Christ was allegedly crucified and buried. The Jewish community pleads by the Wailing Wall while Muslims pray in the Dome of Rock. I found it fascinating to see people complete their pilgrimages in full ecstasy and tears. Others were sliding their written requests to god into the cracks of the holy wall. I spent several hours marvelling at the way people were so intensely and positively touched by religion.

pilgrims at their point of arrival

emotions running high at J.C’s tomb

secret messages

7. Crossing into Palestine and back

It was a very bizarre and uncomfortable border crossing. One that involves strong men and women carrying heavy machine guns, endless rolls of barbed wire, an uncountable amount of security cameras, intense passport checks, high concrete walls and firmly gated passageways. It’s how I imagine a heavily guarded prison to be like. It wasn’t really a fun experience but definitely an important one; a real eye opener. I won’t get deeper into the issue, as I chose not to talk politics on this blog.

on my way to Palestine

So on a lighter note:

8. Floating in the dead sea

A big touristic cliché, but still… Such a peculiar feeling! I tried going underwater, I really couldn’t! The floating was the main draw, but I also found it quite interesting to amble on a salt beach. More fun yet, when it was time to play around in the mud!

dead sea float

salt beach

natural mud bath

9. Talking politics over beers and nargileh

When in Israel, at one point or another, politics do come up. The discussions I had with locals were so interesting and surprising, that they made my ‘top-experiences’ list. Meeting new Israeli friends made the entire trip much more fascinating… intriguing even. The beers and double apple flavoured nargileh (water pipe) added spice to the conversations. As it did to all the following conversations, for that matter. Smoking nargileh is a crucial part of the regional culture, so when in Rome…

new friends, nargileh and beer

10. Learning, Learning, Learning (and being confused)

I could cite another tourist attraction here, but one of the things that really set this trip apart from others was the amount of new things I learnt. About conflicts, about people, about religion, about history, about peace, about beliefs, about the human race… It was overwhelming and memorable. I realised that during a trip to Israel one must really open his mind and heart to get the most out of it.

What I wish I had done in Israel: stay at a kibbutz; have a drink in the underwater restaurant in Eilat; party at a secret desert psy trance gathering and explore the Galilee, land of milk and honey. I guess I’ll have to go back.

Have you been to Israel? Would you ever go?

The post “My Top Ten Experiences in Israel” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 19, 2013
Lazy travel: Sabah, Borneo

One week lay over in ‘Kota Kinabalu’ or ‘KK’ for friends, capital of Sabah, the second largest state of Malaysia. Located on the island of Borneo, the state is reputed for its rich natural diversity.

It boasts Malaysia’s highest peak, a UNESCO world heritage tropical jungle, pristine beaches, world-class dive sites and orangutans in the wild.

Amazing!

Who wouldn’t want a weeklong layover in what sounds like an ecological paradise?! You would be mad not to grasp the opportunity to explore the riches of Sabah. Yet here I was, comfortably settled in my hostel dorm room, not planning any activities at all.

What happened?

Sabah does indeed have some gems, but like most treasures, they are highly protected. This means you mostly need to book packaged tours to explore the majority of them. That’s right, forget the ‘National Geographic-type’ scene of you and your local guide machetting your way through the lush steamy rainforest. There are clearly marked paths and lots of other tourists.

entrance to the park

To climb Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia’s highest mountain, you need to book your overnight expedition months ahead and it will set you back €270.

Kinabalu peak from a safe distance

During your organised canoe safari through the jungle rivers, your guide tells you he can’t stop the boat for you to check out the monkey posing by the river bank because it’s already 6.05pm and your tour ends at 6pm. (True story from several travellers I met)

You’re obviously not the only one taking the tours, so you can expect hordes of (Chinese) tourists, island hopping with you and leaving trash all over the not so deserted beaches.

arrival of a tourist group

For a guaranteed sighting of orangutangs swinging freely through the treetops you need to make way to the rehabilitation centre… Why spend seven hours on the road only to have to fight off a crowd of tourists on the viewing platform.

Don’t get me wrong, there are possibilities to have a more authentic Borneo experience and not use tours, but it will take you quite some time, effort and money.

So what happened?

I was simply not in the mood for extensive travel nor did I want a disneyland-type outing despite the fact that the attractions are unique in the world. I decided not to partake in the “mandatory” tourist trail. I spent most my days in Kota Kinabalu working from the hostel, getting massages, eating, socialising with travellers and the hostel personnel.

daily dose of Malaysian staples

After a while I started feeling some traveler’s guilt, thinking “I really ought to visit something...ANYTHING!”

So I took 3 short trips from KK and as it turns out, you can perfectly “fake” the tourist trail by going on day trips!

Even though I was being a lazy traveler, I still managed to see most of Sabah’s highlights!

One of the trips, which was actually an overnight trip, took me to Kinabalu National park

I didn’t climb Mt. Kinabalu but I did mount some sloping hills around it and got some great views

views

I hiked a few km’s through the rainforest

light hiking

A 15 minute boat ride just off KK’s coast took me to some unspoilt beaches.

deserted beach

perfect for a beer

The last outing, took me to Rasa Ria, a five star resort which has its own nature reserve. It’s a short 45 minute taxi ride away from KK, which allowed me to spend a few a hours getting close and personal with our orangutan cousins. The resort’s rehabilitation centre is in close coöperation with the larger and more popular Sepilok Nature Reserve. There are much less orangutans in Rasa Ria, but also less tourists and the monkeys play around closer to the viewing platform.

happy and free

buddies

Unfortunately, diving was the only activity missing from my ‘lazy travel itinerary’. It takes an extra flight, a bus trip and truckload of cash (at least €500) to reach the underwater paradise of Sipidan. Although it would have undoubtedly been worth the trouble, I didn’t have the money. I still managed to see a lot of fish… on my plate!

yellow fin tuna

lobster

blowfish

tropical fish

blue spotted stingray

I spoke with many travellers in Sabah and they all confirmed my thoughts: by visiting this part of Borneo, you probably won’t be in for a rugged, authentic and unique adventure. Unless you have an abundance of time and resources, that is.

Sabah is a great destination if you long to comfortably experience what Borneo has to offer minus the hassle of organising permits, transportation… I would advice you to combine a visit to Sabah with –time permitting- Sarawak, the other Malaysian state on the island.

For a more unspoilt cultural and natural Bornean experience, head to Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo.

Have you ever skipped the main tourist attractions because you just didn’t feel like it?

The post “Lazy travel: Sabah, Borneo” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 16, 2013
Sneak Preview The Philippines

Here is a quick post with a few pictures from the Philippines where I’m currently exploring the island of Palawan.

So far I can only say, the PHILIPPINES are spectacular, diverse, enchanting… The people are eternal optimists, polite and always up for a laugh. Even though I’ve only been on two provinces of the country, I get the impression the rest of the country shares these traits.

Here is a sneak preview of what we’ve been doing during the past few days

Discovering secret islands in El Nido

rice fields and jeepneys

motorcycling through the country side

delicious food

Taking time for some cheesy romance

monkey love

exploring the underground river

hopping around deserted islands

fresh eels for dinner

mind blowing sunsets, no photoshop here!!

I’m excited to discover more in the following week!

Have you ever been to Palawan or The Philippines?

The post “Sneak Preview The Philippines” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 7, 2013
Backpacking in Africa? Yes you can!

First of all let me clarify that by Africa, I mean the sub-Saharan continent. It’s quite different from travel in North Africa which has a different set of “rules” to play by.

“I’d love to go to Africa some day, but I’m afraid it’s unsafe, too expensive and too difficult to get around. Can you really travel around as a backpacker?” That’s a question I’m often asked.

My answer is YES YOU CAN! -and it’s fantastic!

There seems to be general apprehensiveness amongst travellers when it comes to traveling in Africa. It’s a shame because ‘the dark continent’ is most definitely accessible. True, it’s not the easiest area to travel in -especially if you compare it with South East Asia- but it’s still very doable even for the unexperienced traveller. Budget-wise, you can make your trip very affordable if you don’t mind the occasional bucket shower and can handle a few rough edges.

upgraded bucket shower with a view

There are however, a couple of things to keep in mind before you start planning:

1. Realise that Africa is huge. Depending on how much time you have, pick one or two neighbouring countries to explore.

2. It’s essential that you choose the “right country” for you. Intrepid travellers could try places like Sudan, Mozambique, Malawi, Djibouti or any country that’s more or less politically stable. I would recommend beginners to start off with ‘easier’ countries that offer a minimum of tourist infrastructure. Places where you will meet plenty of other travellers and expats to exchange travel tips and ideas with.

Ghana, Senegal or Gambia are good options for West Africa. So are Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia or Kenya in Eastern Africa. In Southern Africa consider Zimbabwe or Botswana. All of these countries allow you to travel around effortlessly by public transportation, lodge in hostels or homestays and they offer Western food options which come in handy when you’re tired of the African staples.

Though South Africa is a possibility as well, I wouldn’t classify it as a typical African country in terms of tourism as it has an endless array of travel possibilities for the visitor and is so modernly developed you could think you’re in Europe of the States.

3. Take into account that you’re looking at slow travel here. It’s quite common for buses, trains and boats to run late. When I say late, I’m not talking about the “crazy” 20 minutes we complain about in the West, but rather 5+ hours. Your vehicle may break down in the middle of nowhere or it may get stuck in a pothole at some point… This means your arrival time can ( and probably will ) get delayed -at least once during your trip. In other words, having a tight schedule is simply not an option.

stuck in the mud

4. The larger the region you want to explore, the more time you will spend on the road. Expect long hours in buses, boats, trains and minivans. Most of which won’t be the most comfortable rides you’ll have in your life. In your average African country, a 5 seat sedan fits 14. Easily. Sometimes you feel like you’re playing human Tetris.

4 people in the front, 10 in the back

5. Africa is not a place where you visit one attraction after the other as you probably would in Europe or Asia. It’s a place you experience by interacting with locals and taking your time to be somewhere without too much of an agenda. Spend several days in the same town to really get the vibe.

getting my hands dirty in the local kitchen

6. The food won’t always be all that. There are non-African dining alternatives especially in big towns and cities, but in most smaller towns you’ll be served the local staples. For truly delicious African food, make sure you score yourself an invitation to a wedding, birthday party, christening or any kind of celebration. That’s when all the mama’s show off their cooking skills.

not so amazing

no need to rough it to this degree either,unless you want to

the best sushi I’ve ever had was in Tanzania

7. The accommodation can get quite shabby at times. Unless you’re in a city or large town, there’s not always a midrange option. Often it’s either cheap and crummy or high-end luxury. Go for the cheap places and treat yourself every now and then with a more upscale stay, if your budget allows it.

upscale hotel with view on the national park

8. Whether you’re backpacking or not, safari’s are always an expensive affair. If that is something you want to do, keep a separate budget just for your safari. To give you an idea, at the time of writing the cost for a 2D/1N camping safari in Serengeti NP, Tanzania was $300 per person. And this was a decent deal with a local agent. There are cheaper safari’s available if you stay away from the most renowned parks.

safari

9. There are relatively few solo travellers in Africa so I would suggest you find yourself an awesome travel partner before leaving. Even though you could smoothly journey solo, you will have a better time traveling in pairs. Especially for women. You’ll feel more comfortable, it will dramatically cut the costs and it’s usually more fun when you have someone to talk to while you wait around for *insert anything*.

having fun while waiting for a boat

Traveling in Africa is very rewarding; it lifts your spirits and opens your eyes to some important issues the media hardly ever talk about. There are so many unspoilt spots that simply take your breath away. People are generally welcoming and excited to have a conversation with you. Let yourself get swooped off your feet by the laughter and rhythm in the air. If you’re still doubting whether or not you should backpack in Africa, all I can say, is DO IT! The adventure awaits!

backpackers race

Have you ever backpacked in Africa? Would you give it a try?

The post “Backpacking in Africa? Yes you can!‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

August 28, 2013
Gili mini miny moe

Finding the right Gili

For those of you who have not recently been inspecting the map of Indonesia, the Gili’s are three small islands just off the coast of Lombok, the island neighbouring Bali. All three Gili’s have that remote island vibe visitors look for. They’re all scooter and car free -which is very refreshing in Indonesia. The diving and snorkelling trips take you to all the good spots around all three islands, no matter which one you’re residing on. Each one of them has gorgeous white sand beaches and crystal clear waters. Yet they’ve each got a very different and unique personality. With only a couple of km’s apart, you could easily navigate from one island to the other. But what if you don’t have time to search for your perfect Gili? How do you choose the one that suits you best? That’s where this article comes in.

Ini mini miny moe, to which Gili island should I go?

1. Gili Meno- the smallest one

You can jog around it in 30minutes.

First impression- “hmm, this whole island is under construction”

About the beaches- there are a couple of patches of sandy beach, but most stretches have a significant amount of dead coral lying around. The shade is minimal. Using beach chairs is essential for basic comfort. Getting in and out of the water can get tricky as you’ll be walking on layers of sharp dead coral and stones. You can also find a couple of “mangrove-like” beaches.

sharp dead coral beach

mangrove like beach

Development- there is a limited amount of bars and restaurants, but they are definitely numerous enough for you to consume each meal at a different place for at least 7 days. There are sufficient lodging options to choose from, but the island still feels quite empty. At the time of writing, a few new guest houses were being built and the roads were slowly getting paved. There is very little street lighting so once it’s dark, it’s DARK.

After sunset- nightlife here is non-existent. You might find a few locals jamming on their guitars but basically after dinner, all you hear is the sound of clashing waves and chirping crickets.

Perfect for- the traveller who is serious about his/her tan, the CEO who wants everybody to leave him the F* alone, the semi-celebrity who wants to go incognito, the adulterer with his/her mistress/lover, anyone who wants to get off the grid.

A piece of advice- bring a torch. Bring a lot of a cash as there are no ATM’s on the island. A pair of water sandals will come in handy if you plan on swimming a lot. If you’re traveling solo, bring a Wilson.

Wilson for company

In a nutshell: the general vibe is very laid back. At times you feel like you’re the only person on the island. Ideal if you need some hardcore de-stressing. Watch out for stones and sharp dead coral in the shallow water. The latter being a result of years of dynamite fishing.

Meno sunset

2. Gili Air- the one with a green heart

The only Gili with a fresh water source (‘air’ means ‘water’ in Bahasa Indonesian). Consequently, it’s the greener island.

First impression- “Let the vacation begin”

About the Beaches- take your pick; there are sandy beaches, where you’ll find most people and there are deserted mixed beaches (sand and dead coral mix). The sandy beaches are relatively empty in the morning when everyone is out on snorkelling trips and diving excursion.

sandy beach in the morning

Development- one side of the coast is well developed with guest houses, cafés, dive centers, a yoga and meditation center… The other side has little development and is scattered with a few low key establishments. The centre of the island is rural; farms, family compounds, local eateries…

restaurants on the calm side of the island

smile included

green heart of Air

horse drawn carriages replace cars and scooters

After sunset- don’t count on a wild party. There are however, a few bars offering live music.

Perfect for- the “I don’t really like going to the beach”-types, the traveller who wants the deserted island sensation as well as Western comfort, yogi’s, families, nature lovers.

A piece of advice- rent a bike to explore the island. If you want peace and quiet, look for accommodation on the left side of the island (‘left’ when your back is turned towards the harbour). Go to the other side if you want more human interaction and more swimmable waters.

bicyling around the island

In a nutshell: the atmosphere is relaxed, the beer is cold and the sun puts on quite a performance every evening around 6.00pm. Cheap and decent accommodation is available and easy to find. It’s the place where you forget about time yet know exactly when happy hour starts.

happy hour and sunset

3. Gili Trawangan- but you can call me Gili T

The most popular one.

First impression– “Oh God, I’m old…”

About the Beaches– FULL. Of people, of bars, of restaurants, of club lounges, of shops, of dive centres, of beach vendors… Full of everything. HOWEVER, if you walk (or take a horse drawn carriage) to the other side of the island, the beaches are serene and empty.

full, popular beaches

the emptier beaches

Development- I think the line above explains the level of development well enough. There is a LONG strip by the beach, jam-packed with all that a tourist could ever desire.

After sunset- happy hour, cocktail hour, party, after-party… There are enough places that accommodate all the stages of a pumping party night. Pick up some live music, chill at one of the Ibiza-style beach lounges, grab some popcorn and attend an open-air movie screening or -if that’s your scene- order a couple of ‘magic mushroom shakes’ which are widely and openly available on the island. What ever you do, there is no way you’ll be in your bedroom fluffing your pillow by 10pm. That being said, please note that (during high season) the average age in the party scene is 20-26 years old.

ticket to the moon

Perfect for- the gap year student; the traveller who has spent several months in a remote area and is looking forward to a juicy steak, a good cup of strong coffee and someone to speak their own language with; the package tourist; the traveller who wants to combine party with some quality beach time; anyone under 24 who’s traveling in Asia for the first time.

A piece of advice- get some dark sunglasses for optimal and most discrete people watching. If you’re looking for a Robinson Crusoe experience, don’t choose this Gili.

In a nutshell: it’s the best imagineable summer camp for youngsters, 24 and below.

island rules painted on the wall

Conclusion

Personally, I preferred Gili Air. Although I had a fantastic time in Gili Meno snorkelling with sea turtles, catching up with old friends over a couple cool beers and devouring fresh fish off the BBQ, the island was simply too quiet for me. Gili T on the other hand, I found too busy, too crowded, too commercialised and I could absolutely not connect with the crowd. It’s just not my scene (anymore?). In comparison, Gili air is my kind of perfect. It’s the ultimate island feel featuring the best of both worlds. Of course that’s just my opinion. I’ve heard many travellers claim to have fallen head over heels with Gili Meno and others who swear by the upbeat atmosphere of Gili T. But as the French say, ‘des goûts et des couleurs on ne discute pas’ (there is no accounting for taste)

Which Gili would have your preference?

August 8, 2013
Road tripping Oman

The best or perhaps the only way of exploring Oman properly is by car/motorcycle. Whether you’re driving a rental, hiring a car with driver, or hitching a ride from friends/strangers doesn’t matter, as long you have some kind of motorised vehicle at your disposal.

Sure, it’s not the cheapest way, but if you choose taking public transport, you’ll miss out on all the natural beauty Oman has to offer. The few available busses will only take you from town A to town B, which means you’ll have to skip all the beautiful wadi’s hidden in between.

The only big cost will be the actual renting fee. Gas in Oman is literally cheaper than water. At the time of writing, the gas prices were at €0.23 per litre and that’s not a typo.

I was lucky enough to meet Zeina, a magnificent Omani lady who had a car called Boxy and was up for a trip with me. Before I knew it, we we’re cruising on the Omani highway on a road trip from Muscat, the capital, to the coastal town of Sur.

Strangely enough, it started raining cats and dogs as soon as we set off. Seriously?! Rain in the deserts of Oman?! The average rainfall is 10cm per year… I assume it all came pouring down that specific day…Our car Boxy, wasn’t even equipped for such a rare event! Zeina, told me she had never used her windshield wipers before. Which explained the state they were in: practically non-existant. We laughed hysterically and waited on the side of the road until the rain showers eased away.

desert rain

As soon as the visibility improved we continued our journey and made our first stop. The sinkhole. Although it didn’t look all that attractive in the rain, I jumped in and took a dip anyway. “Ain’t gonna let a bit a rain scare me off”. It turned out to be a great decision as we had the whole place to ourselves and eventually, as always, there was sunshine after the rain.

swimming in in the rain

sunshine after the rain

After a long swim, we resumed our journey to Sur, where we spent the afternoon strolling the corniche.

kids at play

lost in translation

men hanging out on the corniche

traditional dhow

Once the sun had set, we tried to find the campsite we had heard about. Quite the challenge, considering the road signs were either missing or not lit. According to local villagers who kindly tried to explain where the campsite was, our poor Boxy wasn’t powerful enough too handle the off road terrain on the way there. The villagers guided us to a ‘better’ camping spot. We lit a fire using the washed up logs and chunks of wood. Suddenly, a fisherman in a pick-up truck popped up and drove us to a specific part of the beach to show us something “special”…

turtles nesting on the beach

up close and personal with the sea turtles

The rest of our night on the beach was not uneventful, but that’s a tale I won’t be writing about today. It’s one of those stories that are better told in person, not in writing. The following morning, we kicked off our day in the neighbouring village with a delicious breakfast offered to us by the fisherman. After that, there was a lot of driving, laughing, eating… Your typical road trip scenario with stops in places like these…

ghost towns

Sur

hot pink pick-up truck

city by the sea

trying to figure out the mystery of the dead desert cows

wadi

wadi perfect for a dip

Oman is now one of my favourite destinations. I love the spirit of the people, the laid back atmosphere, the emerald waters, the hospitality and generosity, the dramatic landscapes, the culture- some parts of which are strongly linked with the Swahili culture of Zanzibar…

Shokran jazeelan, Oman and Zeina for an unforgettable trip!

Would you consider vacationing in Oman?

The post “Road tripping Oman” first appeared on Travel Cake.

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August 6, 2013
Stone Town Street Scenes

It’s been two years since I was in Africa and I miss it. The warm atmosphere, the infectious laughter on the streets, kids singing and dancing all throughout the day, the sweet taste of exotic fruits, the sun that gives you that healthy glow… I even miss the pungent smell of sweaty African armpits -or maybe not so much. It’s a place I call home in some respects, it’s a place that makes me feel good and that lifts my spirits despite all the problems the continent is facing. Since I was feeling so nostalgic, I decided to share some photo’s of one of my favourite cities/town in Africa: Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania.

Let’s take a stroll through the winding streets of the old town

typical street

You could consider the town to be a maze of houses, boutiques, dive centers, mosques, restaurants, bazars… The streets are narrow and the architecture is a unique blend of African, Arab, Persian, Indian and European elements that come together in a remarkable, almost mystical way. I must add that most of the buildings are almost in ruins on the outside. I chose to consider it part of the charm.

carvings on the doors

Zanzibari door

I must have taken over a hundred photo’s of doors. The detailing is just awe-inspiring. Should I ever design a house, I would have the door imported from Zanzibar. And no, not just because that sounds cool!

beautiful mulata

cheeky kid

Another wonderful sight in Stone Town- and in the rest of the island- is the people. Kids are running around the streets, playing, laughing, batting their long lush eyelashes at you…

As for the adults, they are taking their time, doing their thing, living the island life… “Endesha Pole Pole”, swahili for ‘go slowly’.

locals taking their time

peek-a-boo

A walk through town is never complete without a visit to the market. It’s my favorite place at any destination to roam about.

market scene

rice- take your pick

sun dried octopuses

fresh marlin

There are a couple of classic tourist attractions to visit i.e historical building and monuments, but it all felt a bit forced for me to visit. I did have a quick look at some of them, but I soon realised that I’m just not that kind of tourist/traveler. There was one monument however, that really spoke to me. The ‘slavery memorial’ is situated in the old slave market. Stone Town was THE place to be for spice and slave trade back in the days. The memorial not only reminds us of these practices but also shows us how the slaves were sold; standing in a ditch, connected with heavy chains. It’s hard to believe this was reality.

former slave market

Back to getting lost in the narrow streets… Stone Town is relatively small which means that it never takes to long to find your way if you get tired of “being lost”. When the latter occurs, either turn to a local and ask for directions, you’re never more than 15minutes walk away from where you want to be. OR, an even better idea, take a coffee break. Production and consumption of coffee is an ancient Zanzibari tradition. Try a cup of ‘Liberica’, a rich and spicy blend found only on this island. I must say, this was one of the best cups of coffee I’ve ever had! Not to be missed!

walking the streets

coffee break

If you’re ever in Zanzibar and want to try the Liberica, this is a lovely place where you can have a few sips.

When the sun starts to set in Stone Town, it’s not time to go home yet. Sit on the beach for sunset, then keep walking until you reach the ‘ Forodhani Gardens’, a lively food market/ open air restaurant that starts after sunset. All sorts of skewered treats from the sea are presented to you and grilled on demand. Finnish off with a glass of freshly made sugarcane juice with a squeeze of lemon. Pure bliss!

dhows at sunset

fresh sugar cane juice

night market

I spent four days is Stone Town, which is more than the average visitor, but I never got bored. I took things easy, walked a lot, ate and drank like Swahili queen. The whole island has made it to my ‘return-list’.

Have you ever been to Zanzibar? Did you like Stone Town?

sisters

July 16, 2013