Category: Destinations

Where to go in Bali – 10 Insider Tips

When I was living in Bali, my mailbox was flooded with e-mails from friends and acquaintances planning a trip to the island of gods, asking me which spots to hit. I probably should have written a standard answer to copy paste in every reply but just thinking about these places got me so excited, I didn’t mind carefully hand-picking the places that would suit my correspondents. Today, the same question continues to pop up regularly in my inbox and I’ve noticed I tend to recommend the same places on a loop. Anyone can open up a guide book or browse the internet for ‘things to do in Bali’, but these are the picks I recommend acquaintances, friends and readers.

Scooter trip Tirta Gangga to Amed & Bathing in Tirta Gangga’s holy water

Eastern Bali is an excellent area to drive around by scooter. The little roads lead you through picturesque villages and breathtaking landscapes. Somewhere in the midst of it all lies the ‘Tirta Gangga Water Palace’. Though the palace is alluring, it’s the soak in holy water that adds “pazzaz” to the scene. Spend the night in one of the charming guest houses in Tirta Gangga and visit the palace very early in the morning, before the day trippers arrive. There is something transcendental about taking a dip in a pool of sacred water surrounded by nothing else but sounds of nature awakening. From there drive to Amed and take in the natural beauty as well as scenes of rural Bali.

Tirta Gangga Water Palace

holy water pool

a divine feeling

view from my guesthouse

a ceremony on the way to Amed

Amed’s coast

Learn to dive in Tulamben

If you’re a seasoned diver, you might not love any of the dive spots in Bali. It’s just not the most impressive place to scuba. There are however, some beautiful submarine sites worth exploring.

Tulamben lends itself superbly as a place to get scuba certified. The fish and coral are both bountiful and colourful, there is excellent visibility and the water is warm. Right by the shore, at only a few meters depth lies a shipwreck in outstanding condition. It’s one of the few places where you have the opportunity to ship wreck dive as a beginner. Most of the dive spots are near the shore, so there’s no need to jump off a boat; you can just shuffle your way to the sea and gradually ease into deeper waters. Ideal for a nervous beginner. Not into diving? You can access some parts of the wreck by snorkelling too!

USAT Liberty Wreck (photo credits)

Exploring Jatiluwih rice terraces on foot

The rice terraces of Jatiluwih reflect the beauty of the Balinese agriculture. I drove to the UNESCO protected fields using the back roads and found myself at a non-official entrance. The only other people there were the occasional farmers working the land. Get got off the scooter/car and walk through the paddies of endless green. The further you walk, the less people and the better the experience.

cooking a batch of basmati rice, I never realising what beauty it came from

photo’s don’t even begin do it justice

Coffee, cloves and strawberries in Munduk

Anyone referring to Bali as an over-touristed hellhole, clearly hasn’t been to the Northern part of the island. In Munduk the air is cool and the soil is fertile. Perfect circumstances to cultivate coffee, strawberries and cloves. Munduk may be different from typical Balinese towns, nonetheless it’s not very memorable. It’s where the dutch held mountain retreats during colonial times to escape the Indonesian heat. That is still the main reason to head up there; a breath of fresh air, the hilly scenery, the waterfalls, the coffee plantations and eating strawberry covered everything -even pizza.

all what is good grows in Munduk

Gitgit water fall in Munduk

A Deep soul massage in Ubud

Ubud is a great hub to explore the verdant centre of the island. Base yourself here and enjoy all it has to offer: culture, art, spas, every type of yoga you can imagine, meditation, healing, delightful guest houses, organic restaurants catering to every allergy/food trend… Be warned, the town is extremely touristed. However it’s not too hard to get away from the over-commercialised areas and activities. As long as you know to expect a tiny but busy 10-street city, you won’t mind the crowed centre of Ubud too much. Let your hair down, join a yoga class, get a massage and a flower bath, eat an organic meal accompanied by a health shake and have a chat with locals. All the while wearing loose flowy pants and flipflop. Groovy?

spirituality everywhere you turn

yoga barn; the yoga supermarket

organic, locally produced, healthy food

Sunset in Pantai Suluban

Narrow steps in between cliffs bring you down to this tiny beach which disappears with high tide. The setting between the tall escarpment, the soft sand between your toes and unbelievably talented surfers riding impressive waves in the backdrop; It all comes together magnificently when the sun starts to sink in the sea. Strangely enough I didn’t carry my camera with me when I caught my favourite sunset in Bali! Perhaps that’s what made it even more enjoyable?

Suluban beach near Uluwatu (source)

Snorkelling with manta rays on Lembogan island

Nusa Lembongan is a small, tranquil island where you can truly spoil yourself. Be it with stylish yet affordable accommodation or with cliff hung spa’s overlooking the turquoise sea. Still, the best treat Lembongan has to offer is that of underwater splendour. Experienced divers may be able to encounter mola mola (giant moon fish) given the right season. But not all is reserved for divers. In fact all you need is a mask, a snorkel and a pair of fins. Try “drift snorkelling” where currents do the heavy paddling for you and carry you crossed the corals. Marvel at what looks like the worlds biggest aquarium drifting by and with you. The absolute highlight is snorkelling with 2 meter wide manta rays: so exhilarating!

R&R on Nusa Lembongan

not even the honeymoon suite

snorkelling with mantas. photo by Shawn Heinrichs

Beach Bumming on the Gili islands

Although technically not Bali but Lombok, the Gili islands are often visited as part of a trip to Bali. And they should. It’s THE place to be for the classic exotic beach vacation. No motorised vehicles, rustic shacks serving food and drinks, parties, beaches and all that goes with it. There are three Gili islands with very different personalities to chose from. Check out my Gili post to find out which one is right for you.

sandy Gili beach

Sunrise atop or at the foot of Mount Batur

Scaling Mt Batur to see the sun come up is one of the top attractions in Bali. Fit hikers can reach the summit (1717m) in a short two hour climb and can enjoy the sunrise from the top of an active volcano. However, I found that hanging around the slopes of Mt. Batur is just as pleasant. You can watch the sunrise from the foot of the volcano by the crater lake, have breakfast on its hillsides and bathe in the surrounding hot springs. Either way the Kintamani region promises a spectacular scenery.

watching sunrise over Batur’s craterlake with friends, leaving the hiking boots at home

volcanic hot springs near Mt.Batur

For the insane: ascending Mount Agung

As I mentioned above, the most popular volcano sunrise trek is on Mt. Batur. Let me just say this, from the top of Mt. Agung, Batur looks like a joke. Mt. Agung (3031 m) is the holiest place in Bali and although the Balinese tolerate foreigners ascending it, they themselves will not do so. It’s just that sacred. The climb starts around midnight and takes about 7 hours. From the top you have views over the entire island and you can even spot Lombok’s coastline and volcanoes. It’s a strenuous climb, to say the least and an even more taxing, somewhat dangerous descent. Pray for clear skies. If you’re looking for a physical challenge, this is it. I’ll admit it, I cried of desperation during this hike but I don’t regret doing it. Would I do it again? Nope!

For more “insane” activities in Bali, read my article “5 quirky things to do in Bali“.

thinking I’m almost at the top, I notice the pointy shadow telling me there’s still a long way to go

on top of Bali

Bali is packed with remarkable places, secret beaches, stunning temples, lush green valleys… So wherever you decide to go, there is no wrong answer. Except Kuta. Please, stay away from Kuta. It’s crowded, polluted, full of drunk teenagers, pimps and dealers. Mc Donalds, O’Neil and other chain companies rule the town. It’s the only part of Bali I really disliked.

One last tip: as you know by now, Bali is full of tourists, at times too full. I recommend you to visit the more popular sites as early in the morning as you possibly can. This is the only way to avoid the crowds and not return home pissed that you’ve seen too many -insert Western nationality. True, waking up at the crack of dawn is no pick-nick but if it means having ancient sites to yourself and the best lighting for photos, it’s 100% worth it! Don’t worry, there is always a quaint café nearby where you can take a nap later during the day.

unless this is your idea of a dream beach, stay away from Kuta

Which part of Bali have you enjoyed visiting or would you like to visit?

The post “Where to go in Bali – 10 insider tips” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 18, 2014
12 Favourite Destinations

It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.

I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”

“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.

In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.

With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.

While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…

So in no Particular order

1. Oman

I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.

wadi perfect for a dip

2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London

I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.

some amazing food in the area

3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali

This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic

rice fields around Ubud

4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe

As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.

sunset over the Zambezi

5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland

The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.

somewhere along the way

6. Living the island life in Zanzibar

I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.

Zanzibari fishing village

7. Morocco

Every time I go to Morocco I’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.

Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou

8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste

It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventure that made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.

coastline in Dili

9. Hiking Dominica

Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.

every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island

10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel

Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.

quiet streets of the old city

11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela

Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.

Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean

12. Bhaktapur, Nepal

Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!

Bhaktapur in the morning light

I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.

I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.

What are your 5 favourite destinations?

The post “12 Favourite Destinations” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 2, 2014
Things you might want to know before going to Rwanda

Rwanda is tiny African country sandwiched between some of East and Central Africa’s biggest: Uganda, Tanzania and The Congo. Its landlocked position, recent turbulent past and small size could be reason to question its tourism potential.

Having lived in Rwanda during my childhood and remembering the places we’d visit during the weekends and holidays, I could only regard Rwanda as a fantastic tourist destination. However, when I returned to Rwanda two weeks ago, I saw the country in a different light. I was no longer the expat getting the most out of my country of residence: this time around I was just a simple visitor. The country has changed so much since I left in ’94, so I got to reevaluate it completely, almost as if it was my first time there.

visiting my primary school

Although I enjoyed my stay in Rwanda, I heard many travellers complain about theirs. Most of them were let down because the country didn’t meet their expectations. Their disappointment led me to reflect on some of the things to anticipate when you’re considering to put Rwanda on your travel itinerary.

It’s expensive

Well, at least compared to neighbouring Uganda and Tanzania. Everything is more pricey: transportation, food, drinks, safaris, activities… Especially hotel costs will eat away at your budget. To give you an idea, we were charged about €23 to sleep in a standard tent- breakfast not included. A budget private double room cost about €40 per night. Cheaper rooms aren’t hard to come by, but it usually translates to sleeping in a stuffy, windowless closet. You can easily get around on a tighter budget if you’re prepared to rough it. Either way, in terms of value for money, Rwanda just doesn’t deliver.

from our expensive tent

Rules are rules and you will respect them

Rwanda has implemented strict rules and regulations which people follow well. For example, it’s the first non-Western country where I’ve seen motorcycle taxi drivers consistently wearing protective helmets and carrying around a second one for their passengers. The driver will not accept a passenger if he/she does not wear the helmet. Believe me, I’ve tried. The Rwandese seem to respect the new laws which minimises chaos and disorder throughout the country.

helmets are mandatory

It’s modern and well organised

Especially in the capital Kigali. There are street signs, a movie theatre, several coffeehouse franchises, wi-fi everywhere, taxis look new, the streets are clean and alined with tall flowery trees, there are side walks… Buses run on time and are filled to capacity- as opposed to double or triple in Uganda. This is less the case in rural areas and smaller cities but even so, it’s still relatively modern and organised.

Kigali city tower

most establishments have decent wi-fi and 3G network works well

It’s quite safe- even after dark

There are many areas with street lighting in the cities and it’s not odd to see an expat jogging after sunset. That says a lot about safety if you ask me.

Non-biodegradable plastic bags are banned

They’re downright illegal. Upon arrival in the country, visitors’ luggages are checked for plastic bags. Anyone caught in the country using a plastic bag can get fined up to 150$. Store owners stocking them face one year of prison. It’s a harsh law but an effective one; you won’t see mountains of rubbish as you would in other African capitals. Rwanda is striving to become the world’s first plastic-free nation. A part from the thriving underground trade in plastic bags, it’s going in the right direction.

The roads are windy but in excellent condition

I would even say they are better than the ones in Belgium, Rwanda’s ex-metropole. Once you get off the beaten track standards drop but they remain OK. Driving a rental car should not be a problem unless you have a serious fear of heights. The road’s windiness can get to your stomach so if you’re prone to motion sickness, don’t forget to bring your pills.

well maintained, exotic roads

There is a strange language situation

English has only been an official language in Rwanda since 1994 and only in 2008 was the entire education system switched from French to English. French is still an official language alongside Kinyarwanda. It makes communication confusing; some people only know English -mostly in Kigali, others only know French and people with very little education only speak Kinyarwanda. As an English and French speaker, I found it awkward to start every single conversation guessing which language to use, mostly choosing the wrong one first.

So, is Rwanda a good travel destination or should you skip it?

The disappointed travellers I spoke to were looking for something Rwanda is not. They were looking for the raw, authentic, traditional Africa. They found Rwanda too clean, too sterile, too modern and to Westernised. Although these things are true, I found it rather refreshing to see a different Africa! A progressive Africa that is quickly moving forward, that is considerate towards the environment, that values expression through art, where thing are going well- at least on the surface.

That being said, I wouldn’t recommend it as a main destination for travellers looking for an essential Africa experience. It’s worth a detour when you’re in the area for example in combination with a trip to Uganda or Tanzania. If your trip is all about having a “gorillas in the mist” moment, then Rwanda is a must yet I’d still advise to add an extra destination to the trip.

Have you ever though of Rwanda as a destination? Africa in general?

The post “Things you need might want to know before going to Rwanda” first appeared on Travel Cake

August 22, 2014
Bologna “la grassa”, a foodie’s paradise

Bologna is often referred to as the culinary capital of Italy. Because of its abundance and variety in high quality cuisine, the city was nicknamed “la grassa”or litteraly “the fat” during the Middle Ages. It was this little fact that had me browsing for flights and checking my calendar. Since I’m currently staying in Europe for a few months, I couldn’t possibly resist a food trip to Italy, could I?

So I packed some loose fitting clothes and off I went. Due to work obligations, I only had a short 3 days of spare time, thus limited eating opportunities. I didn’t get a chance to sample all that the Emilia-Romagna region has to offer, but I can tell you this:

La grassa does not disappoint!

Some of the staples I tried:

The Italian cliché: espressos and cappuccinos

It’s probably one of the first things that come to mind when you think of people-watching on an Italian terrace, whether you like coffee or not. The espressos were just as strong and tiny as I’d expected them to be and the cappuccinos had a perfect steamed-milk foam collar. For someone who doesn’t usually drink coffee, I sure had lot lot of caffeine racing through my system. Good thing it’s absolutely not done to order a coffee after 12pm or else I would have been bouncing off the walls all throughout my stay.

pre-breakfast espresso, comes with a glass of water to consume BEFORE the espresso to clear the palate

post breakfast cappuccino

playing with foam

Cured meats

Cured meats are not my thing. I hardly ever eat any, but these… These I could eat all day, everyday. It made me wonder if we can even call what we’re consuming cured meats. Typical for the region are pancetta, mortadella, different types of salami, prosciutto, zampone… Most eateries offer mixed platters which allows you to sample the different types of artisan meats. For cured meat fans, this is heaven on earth!

delicate and refined in taste

Parmesan

The home of parmesan cheese! This is where the good stuff is made. I wasn’t fortunate enough to visit the parmesan factory, so I did the next best thing; I waited for the crowds to leave and went to the market near closing time. I talked to the vendors who were relaxed since there was no line of people waiting to get served. I asked them questions about the cheese making process and tried different types of parmesan, to find the one I liked best. The vendors were very informative and eager to share their knowledge.

The “real” balsamico vinegar from Modena

Of course I’ve had balsamic vinegar before, but the real balsamic vinegar carries history and is made according to tradition. It tastes similar to your supermarket variety but really, it’s almost a different product. Did you know the traditional balsamic vinegar goes through an ageing process? Well, I didn’t! I tried a 25 year old vinegar. An incredible explosion of aromas! When I heard it pairs well with chunks of parmesan, I just had to try this unusual combination. Just exquisite.

parmesan with balsamic vinegar

Lambrusco

I tried out lots of Italian wines, a frizzante (sparkeling) Lambrusco is my favourite. I was surprised to learn how widely exported this wine is, as it was first I heard of it. There are white and rosé varieties but the sparkling red is really something unusual and particularly tasty.

refreshing glass of Lambrusco

The original Bolognese sauce

So, what we know as spaghetti bolognese turns out to be… a big fat lie. There is no such thing as spaghetti with bolognese sauce. The original sauce, called ragù, was created in Bologna, explaining the ‘Bolognese’ part of the name, but is not -and should never be according to the Italians- served with spaghetti. It has to be served with (preferably fresh) tagliatelle. I must say, I do prefer ragù with tagliatelle than with spaghetti.

ragù alla bolognese

Fresh pasta

Tortellini, tagliatelle, ravioli… You see them in shop windows looking so fresh, so delicious. I couldn’t resist and bought a wide variety to cook at home. Yes, I left Italy with a suitcase full of pasta.

Piadina

A flatbread typical of the Romagna region. It’s what you would have instead of a sandwich or a wrap. The toppings vary, but are mostly local products. It doesn’t look like anything extraordinary but looks can be deceiving. The freshness of the products and their delicate taste elevate this snack to a higher level. Make sure to get a piadina that is freshly made.

piadina on the go

freshly made with local toppings

Parma ham

There are so many different types, with different ageing processes I couldn’t chose which one to get. That’s why I asked the shopkeeper to give me a few slices of his favourite one. There is a factory in the town of Parma open to visitors where you’ll learn all about Parma ham a.k.a proscuitto. I wasn’t able to visit, but the tastings were good enough for me.

shop selling all the local delicacies

Gelatto

Another classic in Italy. So rich, so flavourful.

chocolate-hazelnut gelatto

Aperitivo

This was my favourite part of the trip. Every day, from around 5.30pm to 9pm most places in Bologna offer food with every drink you order. Some places offer a buffet, others have a fixed aperitivo dish of the day. Everybody flocks to these places after work to have drinks, a chat and something to eat. The food is included in the price of the drink. Aperitivo is the social meeting the culinary and that is perhaps why I enjoyed it so much.

aperitivo at Marsalino

Fresh produce

The markets simply impressed me. With fruits and vegetables looking so vibrant and smelling so fresh, all I wanted to do was to cook. The market inspired me to create… Not only dishes, but just about anything. If I lived here, I would never set foot in a supermarket. At least not for produce.

at the market

learning Italian vocabulary

There are so many other foods typical of the region that I have yet to taste. I like to think it’s a reason to go back.

Have you eaten in Italy? What is your favourite Italian dish?

The post “Bologna la grassa, a foodie’s paradise” first appeared on Travel Cake.

July 21, 2014
A Short Getaway in Portugal

One of my favourite things about living in Europe is being able to change environments in the blink of an eye. If ever in need of foreign food, unfamiliar faces or a change of surrounding architecture, all you need to do is hop on a short flight out of your country to find yourself in an entirely different backdrop. Whether you’re just staying for the weekend or taking a day or two off work, you return energised and fully replenished thanks to the change of scenery.

During my time in Europe, I’ve done all sorts of short getaways like hitch hiking to Copenhagen, exploring the Irish countryside, learning to drink vodka in Warsaw, clubbing in London, discovering the nooks of Budapest…

..And sampling Portugal’s delights.

change of scenery

Because I wanted to experience as much of the country as I could in a short amount of time, I decided to move around a little. Without having too much of a schedule I managed to see a little more than just one city, unlike usual short getaways.

DAY 1: PORTO

Thanks to the abundance of low cost flights, I was able to snatch return tickets to Porto for less than €60 per person. When it comes to picking a weekend destination, one of my main requirements is low transportation costs.

With its cobbled hilled streets, blue-and white tiled walls and a fantastic river side sunset, I found Porto the ideal place to start a trip in Portugal. Its small size allows you to stroll around and take in the atmosphere without feeling the pressure of having to visit a long list of must-see attractions.

Admire the architecture, try Port wine- the national drink, taste some local staples like grilled sardines or for the more adventurous, “tripas a modo de porto”: tripe cooked with dry beans, vegetables, pig’s trotters and offal. Although the latter dish is probably quite tasty, to me, it translated to ‘guts, pork feet and other organs’-stew, so I didn’t try it. If any of you have, please let me know if I missed out on anything!

The city really livens up in the evenings, cafés and restaurants are full of chitchatting Portuguese and internationals. Bars open late with customers often standing just outside talking, drinking, laughing on the street.

blue-and-white tiled walls of the Capela das Almas

a travel nerd’s dream come true: drinking Port in Porto

sardinhas asadas -charcoaled-grilled sardines

the Douro river banks by night

DAY 2: TRAIN TO LISBON

There are direct trains heading to the country’s capital from Porto every hour. The journey lasts around three hours and costs about €25 one way. We left Porto after breakfast and arrived in Lisbon in time for lunch.

I’ve said this before: I love cities by the ocean or the sea, Lisbon is no exception. The ocean brings a sense of cool and a laid-back atmosphere to the city.

A short visit doesn’t really do Lisbon justice considering all she has to offer; history, unique architecture, delicious comfort food, picturesque neighbourhoods, stylish shops and a vibrant party scene. Nonetheless, it’s a good introduction.

Lisbon’s roofs

hilly streets

Port wine, Portugal’s pride

walking around at night

DAY 3: LISBON ON FOOT AND BY TRAM

Yet another city that lends itself perfectly for exploration on foot. Lisbon is bigger than Porto though, so your feet will be thankful when you jump on to one of the signature yellow trams. We spent the day in and around Belém visiting castles, picnicking in the botanical gardens, trying the famous Pasteis de nata, which are not to be missed.

Monumento a los Descubridores

tram 28 takes you around the histrocial centre of the city

pasteis de nata from Belèm

Belèm Tower

DAY 4: DRIVING TO THE DOURO VALLEY

On day four we rented a car and drove north, enjoying the beautiful scenery on the way to the Douro Valley. This area was recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and is THE place to be for wine tourism in Portugal.

It is crucial to have your own transportation when visiting this region as it allows you to move freely and make as many photo stops needed. As you drive down the scenic route, signs lead the way to a plentitude of vineyards. Pop in and visit one or several of the wine estates. Most of them welcome visitors and even have (free) guided tours around the premises, explaining the types of grapes and the manufacturing process. Sampling is of course, part of the learning process… But don’t get too carried away, you still have to drive! We spent the night in Amarante, one of the towns in the area.

Douro valley during spring

learning about Port at a wine estate

tasting Port straight from the cask

road trip fun

spending the night in Amarante

DAY 5: HOME BOUND

We made sure to use a rental company that allowed us to pick up the car in one city (Lisbon) and drop it in another (Porto). So on day 5 we were able to drive the car to the airport in Porto where we returned it. And so ended a perfect short getaway in Portugal.

IMPORTANT:

Ladies, leaves your heels at home. I’m serious, these parts of the country are absolutely not heel friendly. You’ll ruin your shoes and you’ll be too focussed looking down to enjoy the surroundings!

Have you been to Portugal?

The post “A Short Getaway in Portugal” first appeared on Travel Cake.

June 8, 2014
What’s in Macau?

After a quick calculation, I came to the realisation that a day-trip to Macau from Hong Kong would cost me a rough €85 just in transportation costs for two. Woops, this was supposed to be a budget trip! As every so often, I was torn between saving money or discovering a new corner of our planet. During the decision making process -which really only lasted a minute- I found myself wandering: “What’s in Macau anyway? Is it worth blowing my budget over this rarely mentioned destination?”

You tell me…

This is what I found in Macau:

Futuristic scenes

On the way from Macau’s harbour to town, we we’re greeted by futuristic views of the city. My face and hand palms were pressed against the bus window; eyes wide open, lips slightly apart. I could have sworn I had tele-transported to a “city in the clouds” in a distant future. Sure, the smog/mist might have had their effect. Maybe I should lay off the sci-fi films for a while…

Macau in the clouds

Fabulous food

Macanese cuisine is a delicate fusion between Chinese, Portuguese and African flavours. Slow cooked food brought to taste with spices like chili, tumeric, cinnamon, coconut milk… Dishes like Galinha à Africana (African spicy chicken), bacalhau, minchi and pasteis de nata are staples that can easily be found all over Macau. Scrumptious comfort food demonstrating a union between distinct corners of the world, now that’s my cup of tea!

Portuguese Bacalhau

Chinese sweet pork jerky

pasteis de nata- I preferred the Portuguese version

Unseen parallels with the old colony, Portugal

Aside from the food, I was stunned by the ubiquitous Portuguese influences. Cute alleys, Portuguese street signs, wide boulevards, fortresses, churches and the familiar European sound of cars driving over cobbled roads… I felt as though I was in Europe; Portugal with a lot of Chinese tourist.

colourful alleyways

a mix of both worlds

Portuguese tile murals

sunny wide boulevards

Classic Asian elements

Even though you could really believe you’re in Europe, there are enough elements that remind you that, you are indeed still in Asia. Smells, food, photo crazed tourists, Buddhist temples with burning incense, Chinese signs…

special animal parts

the classic asian fan club

tricycle taxi

Lots and lots of gambling

Gambling in Macau has been legal for over a century, alluring big spenders and investors hoping to turn a few dimes into a king’s ransom. Being Asia’s gambling mecca, the casinos are majestic and plentiful. As you walk down the streets, you can almost hear money flying out the windows. Even if you’re not into games of chance, you might enjoy walking around and getting a taste of the atmosphere.

“under the sea”- themed extravaganza at the casino

mirrored casino facade

lively night scene

Grand Lisboa

A dark sea of tourists

With features like “bling bling” casinos, European flair and delicious food, it’s only natural the city attracts enormous amounts of tourists every day. Most of them come from Mainland China and Hong Kong. On top of that, Macau is the world’s most densely populated place on earth (20 497 people per km²). As you can imagine, it can get quite claustrophobic at times but there is a silver lining: acting shamelessly like a cliché tourist is ok! Take elaborate food pictures, sample local fare for free, strike a ridiculous photo pose wherever, whenever. Nobody cares, everybody’s doing it. Get off the main streets and you’ll find peace and quiet.

where’s Waldo?

Macau is the kind of place you wouldn’t choose as your main travel destination, nonetheless it is certainly worth a visit, regardless of the price tag. Curiosity is what drove me to Macau and I wasn’t disappointed. So should you take a side trip from Hong Kong or Mainland China to visit Macau? For me, that’s a yes. What about you,

Would you blow your budget to check out Macau?

The post “What’s in Macau” first appeared on Travel Cake

May 5, 2014
10 Ways Hong Kong Surprised Me

While I spent quite some time browsing through inspiring pictures and reading many informative articles about Hong Kong, the city still managed to surprise me in several ways.

1. Dim sum heaven

For someone who doesn’t even like dim sum, I was amazed to hear myself say: “Let’s have dim sum for breakfast-lunch-dinner… Yes, again!” I can now say pretentious things like: “I only eat dim sum in HK”. Hong Kong boasts a ton of Michelin starred dim sum at affordable prices. Famous chefs and renowned magazines/newspapers award prizes to their favourite dim sum places. I wanted to try them all but unfortunately, my stomach doesn’t stretch that far.

Michelin star dim sum

glutenous beef fat

steamed meet balls at “One Dim Sum”, tastes much better than it looks!

Douglas vs. Anthony Bourdain

2. Antique shopping in the morning

Arriving in Hong Kong, all I could see were tall buildings; banks, offices theatres, malls apartments… The city has such a modern feel to it, I certainly wasn’t expecting to stumble upon quaint alleyways lined with potted plants, cute stairways and rows of knickknack and antiques stalls. Even though I promised myself not to do any shopping in HK -yeah, right- I couldn’t resist purchasing just a few trinkets.

treasure hunt

near “Hollywood road”

3. The goldfish market

At first, it was all excitement seeing the thousands of goldfish racked throughout the long street. Then I felt uncomfortable seeing all the helpless creatures bumping their foreheads against the plastic windows. But then again… it’s local culture and tradition, does that change anything? The goldfish are bought as good luck charms, but they’re also important for good feng shui in a home. In this area, you can find more than just fish… There are frogs, shrimp, turtles, birds, hamsters, rabbits… Basically, it’s the pets neighbourhood.

long street full of “good luck charms”

creepy frogs

free goldie?

4. Helpful, friendly, non-smiling locals

On several occasions, locals stopped their fast paced treads to ask if we needed help -I admit we looked baffled and lost at times. They would ask us the question, we’d answer thinking a small chat starring “where are you from” would follow, but no… They’d resume their default lives only a split second after we’d state we weren’t actually lost. No smile, no “bye”… they’d just off. I liked it: friendly, to the point and no bullsh*t.

5. Egg waffles

Best eaten warm and plain, the eggette is the most popular street food in Hong Kong. Because they are hollow, I thought it wouldn’t be of my liking- I’m quite difficult when it comes to deserts. I can tell you this: I was already ordering seconds while my mouth was still full with the first bite. This egg waffle really hits the spot after a long day in the city! Simple flavour, light and not too sweet… Give me some more bubble waffles!

crunchy egg waffle

6. Chinese tea traditions

Ok, this wasn’t really a surprise, I knew of the existence of the Chinese art of tea. Yet, I had never seen it with my own eyes. The elegance and refinement in which the Chinese lady poured us a cup of Oolong was so captivating I kept pulling out more teas from the rack for “tasting”… If you’re really into tea, you can book a tea tasting tour where you’ll learn more about the process and traditions. If you just want a taste of the magic, you can walk into a traditional tea store and ask to sample some teas. It’s free, but of course you are expected to buy some brew after an elaborate tasting.

Oolong, the traditional way

Chinese tea

7. Double dekker trams

A perfect fusion between the red British buses and the portuguese trams. I marvelled at the city as the tram unveiled its busy streets and quiet neighbourhoods. Hop on hop off anywhere you want with the octopus card, which I strongly suggest you buy if you’ll be spending a couple of days in and around the city. It gives you access to the metro, busses, trams… You can even use it to pay at connivence stores.

driving through the financial district

view from the top of the tram

8. Hygiene comes first

This is definitely not China! Not only are the streets tidy and organised, there are signs everywhere reminding you that certain things/areas are disinfected several times a day. With such a high population density, I can only applaud it ! Public spaces offer free hand sanitizer and public toilets are clean. It’s no Singapore, but still, it would put any germaphobe at ease.

“germ free” escalators

9. The main attractions are kinda lame

At least, the ones I saw were. The avenue of stars where-amongst others- the famous Bruce Lee statue stands, was filled with pushy loud tourists, making it hard to enjoy the Hong Kong skyline. At the same place, there is a free laser and sound show (the symphony of lights) every evening which is promoted as “spectacular”. The first 30 seconds were impressive… but after that I shrugged my shoulders and kept walking. I promise, it’s not because I’m spoiled, HK expats told me the same thing. Maybe they’re spoiled too? Still worth checking it out, just don’t expect “spectacular”.

everybody wants their picture with the life sized Bruce Lee

romantic junk boats

10. Lots of funny random stuff

I was expecting more kitsch and “Hello Kitty”, but apparently, to get more of that, one needs to go to the “Mainland”, which is how locals refer to China. So no real culture shock, but still, I had a few giggles not really understanding things and wondering… “WHY?”

rich birds order fancy food?

restaurant staff on a break. I actually thought this was a show and that they would burst out singing and dancing. Nope, just napping

in a hip (grown up) accessory store… I’m lost, do any of you know this?

instant Brazilian butt lift, just 3$ at the market

Mufasa now serves as a backpack

Which destination has surprised you? Is Hong Kong on your ‘wish list”?

The post “10 ways Hong Kong surprised me” first appeared on Travel Cake.

April 17, 2014
Birthdays Abroad

The past 7 years I’ve been so lucky to celebrate the start of a new life year abroad, either doing something exciting or lazing in the shade of a coconut tree. Because this year was so different, I thought I’d look back on those past birthdays.

Turning…

…22! Stargazing in Liechtenstein’s Alps

As wild camping is legal in Liechtenstein, my then boyfriend and I made our way to the Alps. We pitched a tent in a beautiful meadow and spent the evening celebrating under the stars with bubbles and smoked salmon. It was my first time camping in the wild and I loved being totally isolated in nature. Though I must admit, there were moments at night where I was convinced a mad serial killer was scratching our tent… Tsss, city girls…

the Alps…

bubbles and salmon

“bathing” in nature

…23! Exploring Marrakech and its bazaars

A birthday in the old city of Marrakech was a perfect ending to a two week trip through South Morocco and Western Sahara. We exchanged our dusty desert clothes for urban wear and spent the evening bargaining in the souk and sampling Moroccan wines on rooftop bars.

Djema el-Fna from rooftop

the damage

…24! Solo in Egypt

Instead of flying straight home after a conference in Egypt, I prolonged my stay to see as much of the country as I possibly could. Birthdays are usually spent with friends and/or family, but that time, it was just me. I was proud to be a 24-year-old assertive and mature enough to ‘survive’ the chaos of Caïro. I was proud to be fit enough to climb Mount Sinai for the sunrise. I was proud to be brave enough to travel solo in an unknown, male-dominant country. I felt lucky to have the freedom to do what I was doing.

fighting off touts around the pyramids

loving solo travel

Holy Mount Sinai

…25! On a 40 hour train ride across India

Being crammed on a stuffy Indian train might be one of my most unglamorous birthdays . A group of Indian men sitting on the bed opposite mine, staring at my every move. Rats sprinting across the wagon, passengers loudly clearing their noses by spitting everywhere, toilet floors inundated with urine… It wasn’t much of a celebration, but rather an extremely long two days to get through. After the 40 hour ride, I was treated to a huge cake and beautiful views over Udaipur.

I can stare right back…

delicious personalised birthday cake

Udaipur

…26! Searching for the best “pasteis” and Port in Portugal

What a road trip; driving from city to city and around the country side, sampling on all the goodness Portugal has to offer. Learning about the Portuguese cuisine and culture was my gift to myself.

Port wine served with a selection of fine cheeses

pasteis for the road

Belèm

…27! Love Cake in Kathmandu

We stalled our big hike in the Himalayas to get mentally ready for the trek. So I spent this birthday in Kathmandu visualising myself on the top of a mountain. I can’t remember specific details about that day except… Except the love cake… A famous chocolate cake that has been mentioned as a must-try since the 70’s hippie trail. I wasn’t expecting much -as usual when it comes to chocolate anything outside of Western Europe- but my mind was blown. I was utterly quiet for a few minutes, couldn’t believe I just tasted what I did. Pure bliss! I must admit, my opinion might have been influenced by the fact that I had been eating nothing but flavourless “dahl bhat” and instant noodles for two weeks, but either way, to this day I still think of the Love cake as my favourite chocolate cake EVER!

Kathmandu

Love Cake

…28! By the pool in Myanmar

With temperatures reaching 40°C, there wasn’t much else to do than lie by the pool in Bagan. Temple visits in the mornings and evenings, cooling off in the swimming pool during the day. A lazy 28th. I was surprised with a gorgeous and elaborate cake… with zero flavour -unless ‘fat’ counts as a flavour. I ended up ~~splitting~~ donating the entire cake to the staff members.

the only way to deal with heat

misleading cake

enjoying a good view

…29! Cheese and wine with family

This year no palm trees, no temples and no exotic food, but something that’s at least just as good, maybe even better: stinky cheese and red wine with my family in Belgium. It might not be a dream destination, but it’s exactly where I want to be!

What about you, is celebrating your birthday at home a “must”?

The post “Birthdays Abroad” first appeared on Travel Cake.

April 9, 2014