Category: Destinations

9 Day Trips you should Never Take

… Because they should be overnight trips!

Day trips… they’re convenient when you want to see as much of a region as possible in a short amount of time. However, there are quite a lot of these convenient trips that really don’t do the place justice. You find yourself with hundreds if not thousands of day trippers, packed in the same shops and highlighted areas, you miss the perfect lighting for incredible photo’s at dusk or dawn and most importantly, you by-pass the soul of that place.

It happened to me a few times while other on other occasions I saw it happening to others. I’ve put together a list of places where I’ve either been bummed out not to have spent the night or have been extremely happy not to be part of the day tripper groups visiting the town.

1. Bhaktapur, Nepal

Often done as quick side trip from Kathmandu, most visitors only get a glimpse of the cultural gem of Bhaktapur. A day trip here will allow you to spend a few hours in the central area, have lunch in a reputed restaurants’ and shop in one of the many little kiosks surrounding the main square. It’s a small city swarming with monuments, religious shrines, gilded roofs and palaces with elaborate carvings which you could explore in just a day. However…

Bhaktapur is like and open air museum only it’s not staged

What you miss by making it a day trip

The essence of Bhaktapur is only to be experienced at sunrise. That’s when the people change Bhaktapur into a magical place. Women and children step out of their houses with platters full of offerings and start their rounds for the gods. They stop at every shrine and every corner of spiritual importance to bring an offering, say a prayer and conduct complex rituals which you, as an outsider, couldn’t possibly wrap your mind around. The smell of incense fills up the crisp morning air while the weak sun rays highlight some of Bhaktapur’s finest art.

As I mentioned before, Bhaktapur is one of my 12 favourite destinations of all times and the mornings are exactly what made this place more memorable and alluring than others. Coming here on a day trip would mean missing the morning’s enchantment, when the tourists are still in bed in Kathmandu and the town is the playground of the people and their gods.

morning offerings

2. Guatape, Colombia

I visited Guatape as a day trip from Medellin by public transport. About halfway through the day, I kicked myself in the head for not being able to spend the night in this extremely colourful town.

Guatape

What you miss by making it a day trip

Though Guatape is very small and you definitely could see everything in just a few hours, what I missed was the great lighting you would find early in the morning and in the evenings. Even if you’re not into photography, you’ll probably want to extensively photograph Guatape. It might be the cutest, most colourful town I’ve ever seen. The bright sunlight during the day makes it tough to capture all the details without harsh shadows overcasting the scenes. We noticed the town turning even more stunning as the late afternoon sun set in. Unfortunately, that was also our cue to head back since we didn’t want to arrive at the Medellin bus terminal at night. Dinner and a cool beer at sunset would have been the way to end the day in Guatape.

wishing we could captured the town during sunset

3. Bethlehem, West Bank

Busloads of tourists coming from Jerusalem,Israel swarm the central square of Bethlehem in Palestine every day. The tours take care of the border crossing, a visit to the historical/religious sanctuaries and safely return the tourists back to Israel after having visited the supposed birthplace of Jezus Christ. Although I understand the importance for many to visit a place of such significance, there is much more to Bethlem/Palestine…

the wall separating Israel and West-Bank

What you miss by making it a day trip

By staying in Bethlehem we were able to visit (and spent a few nights in) a refugee camp, talk to the people of Palestine, get into the current culture, broaden our knowledge on the complex situation… Missing these experiences is missing the point of going to Bethlehem. If you want to see where Jezus was born, shouldn’t you see and experience the place it is today as well? My stay in Palestine was eye-opening on so many levels, I could only feel regret for the people who were missing out on the enrichment by only being exposed to a particular church and shrines. If you want to know more about travel in West Bank, read my post to find out what’s in Palestine.

kids at school in refugee camp, the market, Douglas getting a shave, Palestinian specialties, having mint tea on the street in Bethlehem (click to enlarge)

4. Pamukkale, Turkey

The cotton castle of Turkey, usually visited as part of a day trip from resorts on the Turkish Riviera. I was surprised to see hundreds of tourists on the site but only a handful of hotels in the town; hello day trippers.

Pamukkale

What you miss by making it a day trip

Stay the night in the town of Pamukkale and you’ll have the otherwise overrun by tourist cotton castle all to yourself at the crack of dawn. I was the first person to enter the site that day and had teary eyes when I was confronted with the natural beauty and serenity of Pamukkale. I hopped barefooted from one white rock formation to the next, laughing like a child. It was as though I had found a hidden treasure.

arriving at the cotton castle at sunrise

Half an hour after my treasure discovery came the first round of day trippers: the Koreans. While they were very respectful of the site and taking their time to look around, I could already feel a change in atmosphere. By the time the buses of Russians took the relay, the serenity was over. People were more interested in snapping themselves looking sexy than in the site. Beers were consumed, hamburgers and ice creams were spilt and what was a place of wonder just a few hours before, turned into a what resembled a crowed outdoors public swimming pool on a hot summer weekend.

I stayed until closing time but the serenity never returned. I understood it could only be there after the site had spent a night recovering from the assault of mass tourism. When I overheard some day trippers complaining about what a tourist trap Pamukkale is, I knew I had made the right move by spending the night and being the first visitor in the morning.

Photo shooting… Quite amusing to watch, but happy that was not ALL I got to see of Pamukkale (click to enlarge)

5. Scottish Highlands, Scotland

What was I thinking, booking a day trip from Edinburgh to The Scottish Highlands?! It seemed to be the only way to visit this area during my short stay in Scotland. Boy, did I regret that decision.

landscape that calls for a hike

What you miss by making it a day trip

As we were driving by the hills that changed colours as the clouds shifted, all I wanted to do was to get out of the van and start walking amongst them. But I couldn’t, we were on a tight schedule. Damn these day trips. So what you miss is basically everything. Yes, I saw Loch Ness and yes, I had a delicious meal (haggis, what else) in one of those typical Scottish pubs but I didn’t get to spend the night in a rustic B&B or a local sheep farm. Nor was I getting my hiking boots dirty or drinking whisky with Scotsmen. By trying to see too much too fast, I missed most of what the Scottish highlands have to offer.

Loch Ness in the rain, in a hurry

6. Mekong Delta, Vietnam

Most travellers wanting to visit the Mekong Delta book a day trip from Saigon. It usually consists of a boat ride down the Mekong (while wearing conical hats) with a few stops along the river banks showcasing “real life” around the Mekong. Sometimes the tours also provide bicycles which you ride along the river following your guide and the 20 other members of your group. After lunch and perhaps a few shots of snake-scorpion liquor, visitors are returned to the big city.

Mekong Delta (click to enlarge)

What you miss by making it a day trip

Making it an overnight trip gives you the freedom to do the same thing minus the groups and the tight schedule. Because guess what? “Real life” along the Mekong doesn’t run on a tight schedule.

We took a public bus to one of the towns by the Mekong then locally booked a boat in the morning -specifically asking for the conical hats. Since no other tourist had apparently spent the night in this town, we had the boat to ourselves. In the afternoon we rented bicycles and randomly started biking. No plan, just me, my friend, the Mekong and its inhabitants. We stopped whenever we wanted, spent an hour hiding from the the rain with a cup of white coffee in a local farmer’s house and headed back when the sun started setting. We drank beer and ordered the old “we’ll have whatever they’re having”. With no tourists in town we were (sort of) part of the Mekong community for two days. That’s something you can’t say if you’re passing by on a touristy day trip.

getting lost around the Mekong (click to enlarge)

7. Berat, Albania

As Berat is listed as a UNESCO hertige site, people tend to just want to tick it off their ‘to do list’ and move on. For some, Berat is mere a day trip from Durres on the coast or from the capital Tirana.

city of a thousand windows

What you miss by making it a day trip

If you’ve been reading this blog, you already know Berat’s beauty made me weep and that it was one of my highlights in Albania. Spending the night in the city of a thousand windows allowed me to take it easy in this gorgeous town and savour its charm.

I met a traveller who had been to Berat right before me and told me she wasn’t impressed. Immediately whereafter she admitted only having spent two hours there and not have made it to the beautiful parts. Because it’s such a slow paced town, it’s best visited at a slow pace. Spending the night allows you to do just that and get in sync with the spirit of Berat.

having time to have a cup of coffee in this nice Albanian lady’s home

8. Ubud, Bali

Don’t be fooled by Ubud’s popularity for long and semi long stays, the town get a lot of day trippers. Big buses clog up the main streets and the day trippers come pouring in. The typical day trip consists of hitting the Monkey Forest, doing some shopping in the main street, having an ice cream or perhaps lunch, then heading to a surrounding temple or viewpoint before returning to the coast.

the ‘oh so popular’ Monkey Forest

What you miss by making it a day trip

You’ll miss the plethora of incredible little restaurants tucked away in surrounding streets and the calm in the rice fields you find just outside the city centre… On a day trip, you’ll only have enough time to hit the main street which is not Ubud’s best asset. For that reason most the day trippers I have spoken with, found Ubud to be too crowded, too commercial and not authentic at all. Yes, that’s because they were in the wrong area during day tripper peak moment (between 10AM and 4PM). Spend the night -or even better, several nights- and you’ll see a completely different face of the town. A much prettier, more genuine and serener one. And please, forget about the Monkey Forest.

you will not find the cool, tranquil spots when coming to Ubud for the day

9. Petra, Jordan

Either from Amman in Jordan or Eilat in Israel, day trippers drive to Petra, spend a few hours exploring the main passageways then return to their hubs or set their journeys onwards.

entering Petra

What you miss by making it a day trip

After spending an entire day exploring Petra, getting lost in majestic caves and climbing the pink rock formations we were happy to casually hang around the site and spend some time with bedouins who had their tents set up near Petra. They offered us tea, played music around a small fire while the sun was disappearing behind the horizon. They shared tales about their families who have been living in the area for centuries. Later, a dinner fit for kings was prepared for us, just down the road from Petra.

On some nights, Petra opens its doors to present a candlelit version of itself. You may not want to dish up the extra cash for the candlelight show, but sleeping in the arid desert area surrounding Petra and meeting the inhabitants is an experience you don’t want to miss out on.

meeting the people, sharing food (click to enlarge)

Have you ever regretted a day trip because it should have been an overnight trip? Where was it?

The post “9 day trips you should never take“, first appeared on Travel Cake.

March 25, 2015
Explore the Elements

One of the photography goals I’ve recently set for myself, is to focus more on themes: to capture recurring colours, patterns or situation. I find most of the themes I’ve been working around so far, quite average. I usually collect pictures of exotic drinks, dishes, mistranslations, strange signs and a couple of funny ones I’ll be sharing in future posts. That’s why it was quite a challenge to find suitable photographs to enter the “Explore the elements” contest organised by Thomas Cook.

Fellow travel blogger Colleen of “Colleen Brynn Travels“ nominated me to join the competition and it took me quite some time to browse through thousands of pictures, looking for shots that reflect the four elements, a theme that never really crossed my mind before. Since I love a good challenge, I kept searching and came up with these:

EARTH

After the rain (click to enlarge)

I took this picture in a small village in the hills of North Kivu in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Most of the children in this village spend their days exploring this earth shoeless. Visitors often wonder how these children are so full of laughter and happiness when they can’t even afford to buy shoes. My theory: being connected with nature and having the freedom to play unrestrictedly outside, brings greater joy than any material thing could ever.

WATER

Water brings life (click to enlarge)

A man in Myanmar teaches his 7 year old son how to catch dinner. Presence of lakes, seas and oceans make us feel happy and calm because we know that where there is water, there is life.

FIRE

Burmese woman and her guilty pleasure (click to enlarge)

I met this lady near a temple in Myanmar. We didn’t speak each other’s language but we shared laughter and exchanged sunscreens- traditional natural Burmese sun protection for a squirt of western SPF20. We didn’t connect through words but through spirit and energy. When she lit up her big cigar, I just sat next to her and together we watched the smoke dance around us.

AIR

Clothes above the clouds (click to enlarge)

This shot comes from the Himalayas in Nepal. As a visitor, covered head to toe in (expensive?) hiking gear, you pass by small places like these… Reminding you that what is a physical adventure and a vacation to you, is someone else’s daily life with quotidian routines and chores just like yours but in a different setting.

So as it turns out, I did find a secondary theme while “exploring the elements”… That of daily life. These are all travel pictures, but they’re not of tourist attractions or cultural festivals… They all reflect life in local communities which is exactly what the elements do: they are part of our lives, we deal with them on a day to day basis, we need them. Such great power!

Though I’m posting this rather close to the deadline, I’ll still nominate a few bloggers to enter the competition. -All very cool travel blogs, if you want to check them out

1. Dana from Time Travel Plans

2. Karlijn of Karlijn Travels (Dutch)

3. Kim of “Vrouw op reis” (Dutch)

4. Chanel of “Cultural Xplorer”

5. Jarrell and Amirah of “Cool Young History”

Which is your favourite photograph?

March 15, 2015
5 Quirky things to do in Bogota, Colombia

Every time I spend a reasonable amount of time in a big city, I try to look for some funny, cool, quirky things to do besides the general tourist attractions. As this was my second time in Bogotá, it didn’t take me long to have completed the list of “must-sees”.

Though I found Latin America to be generally less quirky than Asia, there are still plenty of unusual, zany thing to be found. This is what I found during my week in Bogotá…

1. For women only: Stay at the Women’s Wellness Hostel Spa

The women’s wellness hostel spa focusses on the well being and relaxation of female travellers, more specifically women who have just undergone cosmetic surgery and those travelling to Bogotá for child birth. First of all, let me tell you this: cosmetic surgery tourism, is absolutely a thing in Colombia. You’ll find women from all over the country as well as international travellers flocking to the capital for their ‘grade A’ surgeries. Colombia is reputed to have some of the best cosmetic surgeons in the region at a fair price (about one third of the price in the USA or Europe).

Now, there’s no need to get “work done” to stay at this hostel as they welcome ALL women, surgery vacation or not. They have a small gym, a beauty salon and a homely spa to offer their guest some relaxing “me-time”. I stayed a couple of nights (FYI, I had no surgery done, it just seemed fun to stay at a women’s only hostel for a change) and indulged in a spa night: sauna, massage by the chiminea, full body scrub, chocolate body mask and candlelit jacuzzi. I had the spa all to myself and was guided by a masseuse with golden hands who took care of me so well, I felt like royalty. The rates per night are hostel rates so don’t expect a fancy spa… It’s more like a cosy home stay.

jacuzzi fit for a queen…

The room was small but tidy; perfect to reconnect with myself after a lot of traveling. The hostel is far from the centre though, so if your mind is set on exploring the old centre, this is not the place to be. If you’ve already visited Bogotá and are in town just to catch your flight, it’s definitely a spot to consider.

the single room, Colombian breakfast (huevos revueltos, arepa and hot chocolate with panela, fresh juice), the massage table by the chiminea

Rates are approx. 26$ for a double room, 21$ for a single, breakfast included. You can book with them directly or through your usual hostel booking site. Calle 159 A N° 22 – 11, Bogotá.

2. Beer and explosives: Play a few rounds of Tejo

A game where beer flows heavily and explosives spark up continuously, what could possibly go wrong? Tejo is one of Colombia’s traditional ancient sports. Though the sport/game in itself doesn’t necessarily involve drinking, the informal tournaments today are often played while consuming (lots) of beer. To play the game’s simplified version, contestants throw a round metal puck, a tejo, across the lane to hit a target about 20 meters away. What’s the target? Small triangular envelopes filled with gun powder secured with clay on a board. Each time your tejo hits the gunpowder an explosion occurs and you score points! With the explosions come cheering, laughing and -there it is- large quantities of beer.

ready to play

gunpowder envelope and tejo

Tejo has become a popular backpackers’ activity and many hostels organise “tejo nights” with a “drink-all-the-beer-you-can” formula.

3. Dunk your cheese in a cup of hot sugar water: Aguapanela con queso

You can try aguapanela all over the country, you could even find it in other Latin American countries but it’s said to be a Colombian speciality. Hot aguapanela is made by melting some ‘panela’ into hot water. Panela is a product made from sugar cane, tasting somewhat similar to brown sugar. Supposedly, it boasts lot’s of healthy components such as vitamin C (more than in fresh orange juice) and rehydrating minerals. I don’t know, it tasted just like sugar to me. Aguapanela can be drunk cold, perhaps with a squeeze of lemon or hot, with a splash of (chocolate)milk. According to Colombian tradition, hot aguapanela is best enjoyed by dunking a chunk of fermented cheese in your cup. For someone like me, who has mostly given up sugar, this was an absolutely undrinkable concoction. But definitely worth a try if you’re looking to attempt new things and are interested in the country’s traditions.

Aguapanela con queso. Source

4. Quadruple your spare change on the streets: Gamble on a guinea pig

The concept is simple, a man on the street lays a bunch of numbered plastic cups upside down in a circle. You place your bet, thus your spare change, on top of what you think will be the winning cup. The host of the game then releases one of his guinea pigs who will chose the winning cup. If the rodent enters the cup your change is sitting on, you are the winner and you will receive 4 or 5 times the money you bet. You lose your change if the guinea pig doesn’t chose your cup. Of course the odds are not very favourable and these animals are trained, so it’s not really a trustworthy game, as with most street games. It is an entertaining street act however. You should see participating as dropping a few coins in the hat of a street artist. If you are concerned about animal cruelty, I can’t really say what these animals’ lives are like, but they all looked healthy, well fed and groomed.

tourists en locals in full suspense…

You can run into these games on the streets of Bogotá as well as in other Colombian cities.

5. Dine and Dance in hell, purgatory or heaven: Andrés D.C.

I wouldn’t know how else to describe this restaurant other than quirky. Andrés D.C. prides itself with 4 floors of total madness. The top floor represents heaven and as you lower down, you’ll reach earth, purgatory and eventually hell. Upon entering the restaurant, you won’t know where to look: the decor is insane featuring all kinds of kitsch trinkets, all matching the floor’s theme. Then, there is the staff bouncing around in wacky outfits (think disco dude or lady from a Botero painting- with fake, disproportioned arms and behinds). Once you’re seated, try to chose an item from the menu… I think it’s the longest menu I’ve ever seen: it’s a bout 30 pages long. While you try to make what seems like an impossible choice, the staff will serenade you, make you dance, bring props for you to wear… They’re not just your waiters, they are your entertainment for the night.

the crazier, the better

serenaded by the entertainers

You never know what might happen next while you’re sipping on your “lethal mojito”. If the loud music, the laughter and the cocktails have given you an appetite for a dance, just head to hell where you can devilishly swing your hips while you wait for your food. The food is very tasty but let’s face it, you don’ t really dine here for the grub… It’s the atmosphere and the original concept that make this restaurant worthwhile.

lively dance floor (source)

Andrés D.C. is extremely popular, so make sure you have a reservation or you’re in for a very long wait. Now that’s what I would call hell. Calle 82, No. 12-21, C.C. El Retiro, Zona Rosa, Bogotá

Have you been to Bogota? What did you think of the city?

The post “5 Quirky things to do in Bogotá” first appeared on Travel Cake.

March 9, 2015
Journey to the Togean islands, Indonesia

I’m staring out the bus window with a intense frown covering my face. The lush Andes landscape rolling by, leaves me almost indifferent. I realise what beauty surrounds me, but I just can’t enjoy it. The combination of high altitude and winy mountain roads leading us up and down the hills has left me with the worst feeling of nausea I have ever experienced. I try to remember the last time I felt this way as a reminder that, just like last time, the nausea will eventually go away…

I dig deep into my memory and then remember… Last time I felt this horrible was over one year ago on the never ending journey to the Togean Islands in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A 16 hour drive swinging through hairpin turns with a sleepy driver that had partied all night, followed by a sleepless night in a cockroach infested hotel with an active karaoke bar right next door to it. The jaunt continued the next morning with a 4 hour boat ride full of seasick people vomiting in plastic bags only to be finished with one more boat ride to our final destination: Kadidiri paradise. And paradise, it was.

I close my eyes in an attempt to day dream away from the motion sickness in the Ecuadorian bus. My thoughts slowly sink to the unspoilt Togean beaches.

sailing past inhabited islands

arriving at our resort

Welcome to paradise…

There was not much to do on these islands. No internet nor phone reception… A total digital detox and relaxation in it’s most original form. Our days were spent snorkelling in the crystal clear waters right outside our doorstep…

Saving the coral from the “evil” crown-of-thorns starfish…

Daydreaming in a hammock…

Catching up on some reading…

Scuba diving to some incredible locations like Una Una, an active underwater Volcano…

source

Floating in a jelly fish lake (of course, they don’t sting)…

Drinking cool (overpriced) beer with friends while watching the sun set into the ocean…

The journey to the Togeans was a tough one but most definitely worth it. If you decide to spend a few days or weeks on the Togean islands, I recommend you bring your favourite snacks and maybe a bottle of booze to create your own cocktails on the beach. Kadidiri Paradise has only one tiny shop, selling some Pringles and a few other nibbles. You’ll get bored of them after a few days, I’m sure. Though the price of your room includes three hearty meals a day, you might get hungry in between meals, that’s when the snacks come in handy.

Don’t forget to pack a good amount of entertainment: frisbee, beach ball, books, notebooks, chess set… Whatever takes your fancy.

Have you ever done a digital detox? Would you need one?

The post “Journey to the Togean island, Indonesia” first appeared on Travel Cake.

March 5, 2015
Desert Oasis of your Dreams: Garmeh, Iran

For as long as I can remember, I’ve always dreamt of going to a “real” oasis in the desert. You know, like the ones you seen in movies or cartoons: a palm tree clad village with an abundance of water and crops, smack in the middle of sand plains and dust. A place where you could sit by a well in the shadow of a tree in total silence and watch the occasional heard of sheep pass by.

That’s exactly what Garmeh is like. Somewhere in Iran’s central desert, Dashte- kavir, lies this tiny village irrigated by a small mountain spring. Garmeh has been welcoming and accommodating travellers for hundreds of years as it was one of the pitstops on the famous silk road.

the oasis of Garmeh- click to enlarge

Getting there and away was far from easy. It entailed several vehicles switches, each time leaving us on the side of a dusty road. Thanks to our non-existent Persian language skills, we only had our hands and smiles to ask for direction and communicate with people on the way. But Iranians, friendly and helpful as they are, always found a way to make us feel at ease and see us through to the next leg of our journey.

on the road…

We stayed in Ateshooni, a family run guesthouse right in the middle of Garmeh.

one of the most unique looking guesthouses I’ve ever stayed in

pet’s at Ateshooni

Our days were filled with walks, relaxation and interesting conversations with other travelleres- half of which were young Iranians.

walking around the village

reading, discussing, laughing with travellers in the guesthouse’s living room

in the village

Our nights were spent entranced by Maziar Ale Davoud’s live music, artist and owner of the guest house. Followed by stargazing and eye-opening conversations whilst sipping tea in miniature cups and nibbling on fresh dates.

We were spoilt with incredible meals three times a day.

getting acquainted with the unique flavours of Persian cuisine

It was so idyllic we ended up booking an extra night- which would have turned into a week were our days in Iran not restricted by a tourist visa.

couldn’t resist spending another day in this little paradise

After a few days in Garmeh, I was not ready to kiss the desert sands goodbye. So we extended our trip by spending the night in another settlement in the desert; “Mesr” near Farahzad. We stayed in ‘Barandaz lodge’, another family run guesthouse with an attached farm. Though the oasis was not as picture perfect as in Garmeh, what we got here was another classic desert scene; enormous sand dunes. Perfect for dune bashing at sunset.

romance at its best

our play ground just after sunset

warming up our feet after running around barefooted in the dunes

camel burgers for dinner

The mornings were just as magical. As the sun rose, you could feel the entire farm and its surrounding rising too. Cows and sheep enjoying(?) their morning milking sessions, camels being taken out for their morning walk, the sun slowly heating up the yellow sand and tea getting to a boil on an open fire.

chasing the rebellious camel that got away from the pack

While this all was going on, there was silence. That strange kind of silence where you do hear things are going on, but their sound disappear in the greater silence. The loudest noise around are your thoughts. Eventually those too quiet down until they are completely mute.

“I think I’m in love with the desert”, I confessed to Douglas. He shot me a jealous look and we never spoke of it again.

photo by Douglas Deleu

We left Dashte-Kavir too soon, but then again, same thing goes for pretty much every destination we visited in Iran.

How do you feel about the desert? Is it an environment you like?

The post “Desert Oasis of your Dreams: Garmeh, Iran” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 22, 2015
First Time Africa Travel: Where to Backpack

So you’ve decided to do it, you’re going to venture in what people find the scariest, darkest continent of them all. Let’s start by rectifying this misapprehension straight away, shall we.

Though there are some African countries that could qualify as somewhat “scary”, Africa is a huge continent. Did you know that Africa could easily fit the USA, China, India, Japan and Europe (Eastern and Western) all at once? How could a place this vast, possibly be generalised about, especially when it comes to safety, wealth, travel comfort, landscape or anything else for that matter.

true size of Africa- click to enlarge

Many travellers make it to Morocco, Egypt and Tunisia but never dare to wander more south, mostly out of fear. I won’t deny that the continent has its problems, but in terms of travel there is no reason to hesitate to chose Africa as a backpacking destination. That being said, it’s only natural to be at least a bit nervous about travelling to the ‘unknown’.

Every week I receive e-mails on this subject. Noob Africa travellers wanting to know where to go exactly. So I’ve come up with 5 of Africa’s most accessible countries; easy to backpack in, fantastic highlights, descent transportation, safe and a great introduction to Sub-Saharan Africa.

1. Tanzania: The Classic

Nothing wrong with a good classic. Going to Tanzania, you will not have any problems finding an easy tourist trail to follow while it’s just as easy to get off the beaten track. English is one of the official languages, so you should be able to communicate easily, even in small towns. The country offers a good mix of attractions: pristine beaches, mountains, scuba diving, rich cultural heritage, world class national parks… You’ll have the option to camp or to spoil yourself in the most amazing lodges and resorts. Tanzania has been hosting foreign visitors for decades, leaving it with a well developed tourist infrastructure.

A few backpacker highlights:

* Safari in Serengeti and/or Ngorongoro crater

scenes from Disney’s Lion King in Tanzania

camping in Serengeti park is a good budget option and tons of fun

you’re very likely to spot all your favourite savanna animals

* Chimpanzee tracking, Fishing and snorkelling in and around Tanganyika Lake

* Beaches, dolphins, culture, spices and architecture on the islands of Zanzibar and/or Pemba

white sand beaches of Zanzibar

carvings on the doors

cocktails on the beach

* Scaling Mt. Kilimanjaro

if your budget doesn’t allow to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, you can always admire it from afar. photo by Roman Boed

2. Senegal and The Gambia: The beating heart of Western Africa

Since The Gambia lies completely inside of Senegal you could easily visit both countries. Note that they each have very different personalities. Senegal, just like Tanzania, has seen visitors for decades. Though most stick to beach resorts, there is quite a good tourist infrastructure. In terms of communication, French is one of the official languages so unless you speak it, you’ll have to dialogue with gestures, which works just fine, especially in a country where laughter is more important than words. In The Gambia, however, you will be able to get by with English. It’s an up and coming vacation destination often nicknamed ‘Africa for beginners’. Due to its small size, you could experience The Gambia in just one week.

A few backpacker highlights:

* visit Dakar’s markets

Sandaga market, loud and colourful, just like Senegal. photo credits.

* Join a fisherman’s crew in Gambia

ask a fisherman if you can join him for a catch. Or sit back and watch them haul in the nets. Photo by Wendy Moriarty

* Live jazz and strolling around the historical town of Saint-Louis, Senegal

streets of Saint-Louis Senegal. Photo by Jan Dudas

3. Uganda: Mellow and diverse – can be combined with Rwanda:

I was surprised to see how easy it was to navigate through Uganda while lugging around a backpack. At the same time, it feels like an adventure asking people for rides on the back of their motorcycles. In both countries English is widely spoken, which facilitates contacts with locals. Uganda has a lot to offer: Safari’s by foot/4×4/boat, explosive waterfalls, vibrant nightlife, adrenaline sports, lakes and gorgeous hikes. There is a reason why they call it the “Pearl of Africa”. Adding Rwanda to your itinerary will bring contrast to your trip. Both countries have gorgeous lakes, offer the opportunity to go gorilla tracking and are a bird watcher’s paradise, yet they are so different to one another culturally. Keep in mind that you’ll need a higher budget for Rwanda.

A few backpacker highlights:

* Gorilla spotting

face to face with a gorilla in the wild, a one of a kind experience presumably worth that big chunk of your budget. old school picture by G. Vanden Daele

* Relaxing and bird watching in Lake Bunyonyi

waking up to this… Lake Bunyonyi, one of my favourite spots in Africa.

* Giraffes and waterfalls; Murchison Falls

sunset on Murchison Falls. Photo by Chris Moore

4. Ghana: The Gold Coast of Africa

The best thing about Ghana must be its diversity and contrasts. You will find dry lands on one side of the country, lush tropical forests and waterfalls on the other. Muslim, Christians and animists living side by side in harmony. Traditional villages run by a chief versus big bustling cities where you can find high quality australian steak as well as fashionistas parading through the streets. With its position on the West Coast of Africa, Ghana played a crucial role in the slave trade with the Americas. You can learn more about it in the former slave markets on Ghana’s coast. Again, English is one of the official languages and there are plenty of intercity buses giving you the opportunity to travel around the country with minimum plans and good comfort.

A few backpacker highlights:

* Cape Coast and Elmina Castle

immerse yourself in the history of slavery. you can actually still reek the human despair in the castles dungeons.

when the history lesson gets too intense, put the past behind you and enjoy a fresh juice on the beach while the fishermen prepare to cast their nets.

* Trekking in Kakum National park

mandatory photo with crocodile

* Experiencing village life and visiting Larabanga mosque

scenes around the villages

not your typicial mosque, Larabanga. Photo by Felix Krohn

5. South Africa: Western comfort in an African robe

If you are yearning for some African flavour but are not quite ready to leave your western comfort, South Africa is the place for you. It has everything you would find in a modern European country combined with Africa’s typical ‘joie de vivre’. From transportation to hostels and top notch sites, South Africa has everything you need for a surprising backpacking trip. I write surprising because wine tasting, surfing and sharing a beach with penguins are probably not the first things that come in mind when you think of Africa. Note that you may need a slightly higher budget than in the African countries mentioned above.

A few backpacker highlights:

* Cape Town and surroundings

Cape town has something to offer to every type of traveller. Also check out the surrounding vineyards and Robben islands. Foto by Jens

* Hiking in Drakensberg

the Drakensberg plateau borders with the tiny country of Lesotho, so if you’re looking to explore an extra country, why not cross the border. photo by Laurel Robbins

* Wild life spotting in Kruger National Park

because most first time Africa travellers want to see some game during their trip.

Backpacking in Africa is very different than backpacking in places like South East Asia. It’s a little tougher and more expensive. But the interactions with local people is much more intense as is the “I’m an explorer”-feeling. Though intrepid travellers would also very much enjoy the destinations listed above, I would probably add some other, more “edgy” recommendations. That’s for a future blogpost!

Have you backpacked Africa? Would you like/dare to?

The post “First time Africa Travel: where to backpack” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 12, 2015
3 Awesome Budget Accomodations in Albania

I wasn’t sure what “on a budget” in Albania would mean exactly. Would my daily lunches consist of a raw cucumber from the market? Would I be forced to skip the bus fee in order to save a few bucks? Would I be sleeping in dirty dungeons, sharing bathrooms with 10 other people?

None of that was the case, especially not the latter. I stayed in a few memorable and great value spots in Albania that I’ve been recommending to fellow travellers. So why not share them on this platform too?!

Cabin in the woods: Rilindja, Valbona

The guesthouse, info centre and restaurant

One of the important contributors of my mind blowing stay in the Albanian Alps was definitely the Rilinja guesthouse. I was sold the minute I laid eyes on the quaint chalet in the woods.

easy to find

What’s so awesome about it: your own balconied room in a chalet amidst the glorious forest trees, offering views over the mountains and a fast streaming river. Or the crackling fire warming up the reception/restaurant welcoming you after a strenuous hike. The restaurant, located right beneath your room boasting a menu full of delicious Northern Albanian specialities -I happened to have tried almost everything on the menu and I can say with confidence, all the dishes are very tasty.

scrumptious dinner and wine with new friends – click to enlarge

Bonus points:

– the most beautiful hiking trails start near the guesthouse- maps can be provided

one of the hikes starting from the guesthouse

– they serve an excellent home brewed red, which comes in very copious amounts

– the restaurant/reception is a fantastic place to meet and socialise with other travellers.

Extra info: keep in mind that the rooms are small and their walls are paper thin. But in such a beautiful environment, you’ll be out and about all day, using your room only to crash exhaustedly at night.

your back yard

Rates start at €30 for a double including a huge breakfast. Share the room with a travel mate and you’ve got yourself a great budget deal! Prices are lower during the winter. Camping spots are available for €2. Do make a reservation through their website, especially during the weekend as the place can get packed with local tourists.

A home amongst the orchards: Florian’s guesthouse, Shkodër

Florian’s guesthouse and it’s orchards – click to enlarge

On your way to Valbona, you’ll probably have to make an overnight stop in Shkodër, that is if you’re taking the scenic route there. It’s a small town that has a few charms and can be wandered around in a day, two at the most. But it was Florian’s guesthouse that made Shkodër memorable to me.

What’s so awesome about it: the guesthouse is out of town so you will get a bicycle (for free) to ride to the centre. That 5-6 minute ride on the Albanian streets in itself, is an adventure you will not forget. You’ll be eating organic, with produce coming right out of the back yard, straight onto your plate. You can even pick some of the veggies yourself, if you like. It’s the place to be for an authentic Albanian family experience: having “family” dinners with the hosts and other guests while surrounded by orchards and countryside peace. You’ll drink home made wine and rakia while sharing travel tales and have the opportunity to learn about Albania’s past and present through the fascinating stories of your host.

at the dinner table, clockwise: organic home made wine, birthday cake and rakia for desert, dining on home grown produce, veggie soup- click to enlarge

Bonus points:

– fun loving, warm and welcoming host Florian

– free use of bicycles

– full board option for €4 extra. Home made wine included!

laughing, toasting, drinking in true Albanian style

Extra info: the dorm is nothing to write home about, but it’s the cosy atmosphere and that pureness of rural Albania that will make your stay unforgettable.

Countryside scenes right outside your doorstep

Rates start at €11 per person including breakfast. Add €4 and you get lunch, dinner and wine. How’s that for good value?!

adding my pick of the day to my breakfast- click to enlarge

Historical house of relaxation: Berat Backpackers, Berat

who wouldn’t want to chill on this rooftop

I loved Berat’s charm so much, it brought tears to my eyes. Spending hours breaking a sweat going up and down the cobbled streets, I was happy to end the day in relaxed atmosphere with a cool beer and friendly conversation at the Berat Backpackers hostel.

clean spacious dorm with beautiful views

What’s so awesome about it: a gorgeously renewed Berat style historical house. You won’t just be visiting Berat, but really living in it. A relaxed atmosphere lending itself perfectly for socialising with guests and staff in the hip communal living room or sitting quietly in the courtyard reading a book while plump pomegranates fall from the trees as they ripen.

Bonus points:

– right in the middle of one of the historical centres

view outside the hostel

– option to have a communal dinner in the hostel

– come at the right time and you might be able to help turn the grape/fruit harvest into wine/jams… the traditional way.

the traditional way… Photo by Berat Backpackers

Extra info: I stayed at the hostel during low season so it was very quiet. During the summertime however, it’s very animated. Note that Berat Backpackers is closed during the winter (December 1st 2014- March 15th 2015). Rates start at €6 for camping, €10 for a dorm bed in low season (€12 in high season) and € 12 per person for a private double.

All three of these guesthouses added that extra magic to my Albania travel. If you happen to travel that way, I strongly recommend you checking them out.

Which one would have your fancy? What kind of accommodation do you prefer? Hotels or guesthouses/hostels?

The post “3 Awesome Budget Accommodations in Albania” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 2, 2015
Wine Tasting in Corinth, Greece

When I think of “wine countries”, I immediately think France, South Africa, Chile, Australia, California… Greece doesn’t even spring to mind. Strange, because after all, during the antiquity, the Greeks were one of the largest wine producers in the region and their ancient techniques still form the bases of modern wine culture today! Greek mythology and history show us that wine played an essential role in ancient Greek civilisations. The Greeks even worshiped a wine god, Dionysus.

I knew all this from history and Latin classes in high school yet I still found myself surprised that there was such thing as good Greek wine. I guess it’s just not much promoted internationally.

Curious about this Greek wine, I decided to join a wine tour in Corinth to taste what was originally known as the nectar of the gods. I’m usually not a fan of bus tours, but this one was leaving from Athens, making a few stops in the old city of Corinth and finishing off in the countryside taking us to two wineries. Since it was quite far from Athens and you can’t possibly drive after a wine tasting, I thought I’d give it a chance.

driving to the Corinthian countryside

On our way to the winery, our guide Stella fascinated us with some of the myths taking place in the region. She topped off the storytelling with some personal anecdotes. She remembered that in the 70’s the farmers of this region were running low on food resources. Since they were using so much energy working the land, they looked for alternative ways to bump up their daily calorie intake. The answer: adding wine to their milk. Even children were given this concoction before staring their mile long walking journey to school.

the Greek “winebelt”

We arrived at the Seméli winery. Gorgeously set on a hilltop with incredible views over the Peloponnesian countryside. First, we got the wine estate’s grand tour, we say it all: the vineyards, the wine making process, the bottling, labelling and storing. By the time we got to the storage cellar, all we could think about was: “Wine. Must. Taste. Now.”

end of season grapes

learning about the wine making process

and the different types

beautiful storage cellar

Wish granted. We started with the lightest white wine and ended with a more mature, robust red wine. Now I’m absolutely not a connoisseur, so I don’t think it would make much sense for me to try to tell you how the wines tasted, would it? I can confidently say though, that I found them to be exquisite. My tour mates agreed. I bought their most expensive bottle as a gift, the reserve -which was a steal at only €8- and I would have bought a bottle of white and rosé for myself, were I not backpacking and flying out of the country the next day.

Nemea wine turned out to be an incredible value for money wine

tasting my favourite white over and over again

wine tasting with a view

After the tasting, a light lunch was provided. Deliciously fresh and simple Greek staples.

Greek delights to accompany the wine

On our way to the second winery, our guide received a call informing her that the second winery could no longer accomodate us due to an unexpected event. What a bummer! Especially because we could have stayed longer in Seméli.

Loosing flexibility is one of the reasons why I’m not too fond of tours. So we started our journey back to Athens, a little disappointed. However, that disappointment was soon forgotten when we managed to convince Stella and the bus driver to stop on the way so we could enjoy some more of the countryside.

olives on the side of the road

running through the grapevines

I LOVED the whole wine tasting experience, just like I thought I would. I will definitely be doing it again in the next wine country I visit. Tours are still not my cup of tea, but because the other participants were fun and interesting, I did very much enjoy the arranged excursion. Besides, as said earlier, there is really no other way to do a wine tasting than to be driven around unless you’re spending the night at the winery.

You can visit Seméli independently though, just make an appointment by contacting them. Order lunch with them or bring your own. If you would like a day tour from Athens (including wine, lunch and a visit to ancient Corinth and Nemea), there are several companies offering the same tour with prices ranging from €77 to €100 per adult.

This tour was offered to me by the association of tourist guides as part of TBEX activities.

Have you taken a wine tasting tour before? Where was it?

The post “Wine Tasting in Corinth” first appeared on Travel Cake.

January 19, 2015