Category: Destinations

What it’s like to live in Puerto Cayo, Ecuador

You’ve probably never heard of Puerto Cayo.

Don’t feel bad, most people haven’t. Puerto Cayo is a sleepy fishing village on the Pacific coast that doesn’t have much more to offer than long stretches of sandy beach spotted with seashells and colourful pebbles. Yet, it’s where we chose to settle down for the largest chunk of our 4 month stay in Ecuador earlier this year. We loved our calm beach life and even though there was absolutely nothing going on, we were sad to leave. . Living in Puerto Cayo was a unique experience. It was life at it’s simplest.

So what is it like to live in an Ecuadorian beach village as a digital nomad?

As usual, we rented in a furnished house – Pasatiempo del Sur. This time, it was a beautiful apartment by the beach with a pool, a garden and a killer view over the sun setting in the ocean.

on the bottom floor, our beautiful apartment/house with shared pool, garden and pets

A typical day would look like this:

WAKE UP SLOW – coffee and breakfast on the terrace

What I love and miss most about living in the tropics, is how early the days start. Your biorhythm adjusts to the sun, which rises and sets at approximately the same hour every day. There was no need for an alarm, we’d just wake up naturally around 7AM every morning as the sun brightened the sky. I would get out of bed with enough energy to make a fruit salad for breakfast to accompany our morning coffee/tea.

WORK-WORK-WORK

As the mornings are the coolest time of the day in Ecuador, we’d try to get as much work done as possible before temperatures would rise to their maximums.

Douglas ‘slaving away’ in the morning.

LUNCH BREAK + SIESTA

By 11 AM the sun would burn so intensely, it was impossible to get anything done. The entire village would be deserted. Not just for lunch breaks but to escape the heat of the equatorial sun. We’d have a simple lunch at home or take a motor taxi to one of the many restaurants -if I can call them that- on the beach. But truthfully only a mad dog would be out and about around noon.

After lunch comes… siesta time! We would not actually sleep (although that happened a few times) but unwind, digest and escape the burning heat outside.

reading in the hammock

BACK TO WORK + BEACH BREAK

By 3PM, it’s still steaming hot outside but more tolerable already. We’d stay inside and get some more work done. Once it started to cool down around 4 or 5 PM, we’d take a break to go for a splash in the ocean. How could you not, when you have a beach all to yourself?! We’d paddle in the waves and swim for about half an hour before returning to our work day.

Splashing around, jumping and screaming like kids. As far as the eye can see, not a soul in sight

After our swim, we would work outside; Douglas on his laptop and I cleaning the pool, watering the plants or doing some housework.

while cleaning the pool I would find these crabs, drifted off from the ocean

APERO WHILE WATCHING THE SUNSET

We’d end our work day by pouring ourselves an “apero” (a drink before dinner) at sunset. Time to sit back and relax. The fact that there was nothing else to do, helped us appreciate nature’s spectacle. Whether we’d be home or in one of the fish shacks on the beach, we never missed the show!

The sunset in Puerto Cayo was different every evening. I was amazed at how beautiful and -in a way- exciting life can be without entertainment, bars, friends… Just peace and quiet

DINNER

Sometimes we’d cook our own dinner, other times we would go to one of the few restaurants in town. Options on their menus were limited to fish, fish, seafood or fish. Meat is a scarce commodity in Puerto Cayo.

The food shacks on the beach during the day offering fish, fish or fish

During the weekends we would laze around the pool, take long strolls on the beach, play with the dogs, go out for brunch or visit a neighbouring town. We learned to be content with uneventful weekends and enjoyed the low-keyed weeks as they drifted by.

Fancy and delicious brunch in restaurant ‘El Alebrije’ on a sunday morning. Eggs Benedict and Bloody Mary.

Since our lifestyle doesn’t allow us to have pets, we were thrilled to have our landlord’s dogs running around the grounds. Temporary pets to play with!

We learned all about the “no-alcohol-on-sundays” policy… On a sunday…

Living in Puerto Cayo was a perfect way to get lots of work done and to save some money, as there were no distractions. We took it easy and truly lived in the moment which was a marvellous experience. We laughed and played like unconstrained children. We created our own joy and excitement. We let go of our worries and returned home with renewed energy and a new sense of serenity. In a way, living in Puerto Cayo was like going on one of those “find yourself” retreats. Another enrichment in our lives.

Could you see yourself living in a tiny town where there is nothing to do? Do you think you could find happiness in a place like Puerto Cayo?

The post “what it’s like to live in Puerto Cayo, Ecuador” first appeared on Travel Cake.

November 1, 2015
Motorcycling India

When I met my husband he charmed me with his vague plan to buy a motorcycle in India with which he’d traverse the country while documenting the journey on film. Ravished as I was, I didn’t really believe he’d pull through. But there I was, ten months later, on a plane to India to join in on the motorcycle adventure. A trip from South to North India on a 1979 Royal Enfield, “Bullet”.

bizarre checkpoint along the way

It would take a short novel to tell you the whole story, so I’ll stick to the most essential parts…

When I arrived in India Douglas and his travel mate had already bought motorcycles, driven through the most insane traffic situations, been severely ill and they’d had a few near death experiences. But worst of all, they’d just been robbed of thousands of dollars worth of filming equipment and the stories they had captured on film. That’s how we got acquainted with India’s police and red tape. I’ve blacked out the details, it really was that horrible.

The silver lining was that robbery happened in Varkala, a popular backpacker beach hangout perched on a steep cliff full of restaurants, bars and shopping stalls. So while we spent days at the police station fighting for paperwork to come through, we’d spend the rest of the time stuffing our faces with banana pancakes, drinking cool beers, joining spontaneous sing-alongs around the campfire and skinny dipping under the full moon with new found Scandinavian friends. You know, the usual backpacker’s stuff.

Varkala beach at sunset

not a bad way to wait for paperwork to come through…

After a week of frustration, we finally got the paperwork out of the way and were ready to leave the tourist Shangri-La to dig into the “real” India.

let’s go!

With our backpacks strapped securely to the back of our motorcycle, we crossed the palm fringed Kerala. We parked “The Bullet” for a few days to spend some time gliding the backwaters on a houseboat.

view from our houseboat

We continued our trip passing through gorgeous landscapes and majestic cities…

Udaipur

…but also rather dull ones.

the hardest stretches were the ones with boring landscapes

We would drive all day, taking lots of breaks…

dancing with some school kids during the pee/stretch break in the middle of nowhere

…and we’d look for a place to stay once the sun started to set. If we were lucky we’d find a quaint little room with a view but more often than not, we’d have to take whatever was available. Thus we got our fair share of bedroom cockroach encounters, rat dropping surprises and malfunctioning fans in temperatures of 40 C° at night. Or even worse: nosy staff showing up unannounced in our room at night under pretext they’d “need something” from inside… WTF?!

cockroach-free room with a view…

The Bullet tagged along with us where ever we went, giving us the freedom to stop anywhere we wanted.

we took The Bullet on a passenger ferry to cross a river. In india everything is possible, all you need to do is ask.

The Bullet got butchered on a a train ride…

Our motorcycle broke down often. We’d have it repaired if we happened to be near a town. If not, we’d fix it ourselves. With tape and rope. Yep, that works sometimes.

in cases of emergency, there is a mechanic in all of us

But usually there were more than enough people spontaneously getting involved, trying everything they could to get The Bullet running.

bystanders always got involved. Whether we’d want it or not.

Traffic in and near cities was absolute madness. You never know what you’ll encounter while driving. Anything goes.

dodging cows became a daily activity

traffic was always interesting

elephants: part of every-day encounters on the road…

We met some interesting characters along the way.

talking to fascinating characters like this made our breaks extra compelling. I was drawn by his fabulous top.

We ate where the locals do.

street food

We tried to understand the essence of India. We were far from the tourist path and as close to life in small town India as possible. Even so, we knew we would never be able to truly make sense of things in this country. We are outsiders to the culture and always will be, no matter how hard we tried. To us, that’s the beauty of traveling in India.

beach in Kerala

My part of the journey ended in Delhi after having crossed the States of Kerala, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Gujarat and Rajasthan. Douglas continued further north through the Himalayas to Manali on his own.

having our own set of wheels allowed us to discover forgotten temples and ruins along the way

As you can imagine, insane things happened on this three month trip but as I mentioned earlier, it would take a novel to tell the full story. I would definitely rank this trip under the category “hardcore travel”.

Here are a few tips if you want to motorcycle through India:

1. Don’t. It’s dangerous. But if you really really must…

2. Travel in India without a motorcycle first. That way you’ll get to know the Indian way before taking on the responsibility of having to drive, deal with mechanics and cultural differnces, finding your way in sprawling cities… Only when you find that you can handle the Indian chaos, should you start to consider driving the motorcycle.

3. Upgrade your motorcycle’s horn. Make sure it’s loud enough to overpower the other horns. On Indian roads, it’s survival of the loudest.

4. Pack light, very light. It’s so much easier and more comfortable to drive with a light backseat. You may have noticed I’m wearing the same outfits in almost all of the pictures in this post. Do bring along some tape and rope, they always comes in handy!

5. Avoid cities and crowds. They’re complete mayhem.

6. If you are pressed with time, chose North India as your destination. The mountainous area north of New Delhi is far more laid back to drive through.

6. Finally and most importantly: Go with the flow. You can’t control most of what happens on the road. The sooner you accept that reality and let go, the sooner you’ll start enjoying the experience.

Motorcycling through India was not a relaxing trip. It was challenging, dangerous and frustrating. At the same time it was unlike anything else and incredibly rewarding. An epic journey for ever in our memories.

dirty, smelly and tired but 100% satisfied

Have you traveled by motorcycle? Where? Would you motorcycle India?

The post “Motorcycling India” first appeared on Travel Cake.

October 4, 2015
An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences

It’s been quiet on Travel Cake these past few months. Some of you have been asking me where I’ve been and what I’ve been up to. Well, I can tell you this much: I haven’t been slacking!

I’ve moved from Ecuador to Belgium where I have been slaving away at a 9 to 5 desk job. Being back in my hometown has been wonderful in terms of reconnecting with friends, family and the city. You may have read the mini luxury guide to Ghent I wrote for travel blog “Hippie in Heels”. You may also have read what I had to say about travel photography in an article for “Voyager for life“.

saying my goodbyes to Ecuador

But most importantly, I’ve been preparing for the trip of a lifetime. A new adventure, greater than any I’ve ever been on before.

Destination?

Motherhood.

That’s right,I said motherhood.

The journey began 10 months ago in Iran and continued in Ecuador and Colombia. It took a turn in the US and passed by the Netherlands. It then continued to Belgium where our daughter was born. Our ‘Mini Travel Cake’ is a sweet and funny baby with a traveller’s spirit. How could it be any different, she is only a month old and has already been to 6 countries!

Does this mean Travel Cake is turning into a mommy blog?

No. Plain and simple. It’s just not my cup of tea. However, I’ll probably publish an article related to kids and travel every once in a while. But in general I plan on publishing the same kind of content as I have so far.

As my pregnancy came to an end, I was stuck indoors with a swollen face hiding from the summer heat. Knowing that my life will never be exactly the same again, I thought about my passed travels. Motherhood is probably the most intense and life changing adventure of them all and I’m THRILLED not to have rushed into it. Thrilled to have taken time to see and experience as much of the world as possible while being relatively carefree. That’s why, as a tribute to carefree travelling, I will be posting a countdown of my 100 most memorable, essential travel experiences.

Here goes part 1, in no particular order:

100. Driving miles and miles on the rooftops of Nepali busses.

A drink, music blasting from your headphones and wind running through your hair… the best seats are in between the luggage on the roof of the bus!

99. 1001 nights in Morocco

Morocco’s riads are so romantic, so sophisticated and worth the occational splurge. I tried looking the part sippin’ on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco’s fancy riads. Click on the title to read about my weekend in Fez, Morocco.

98. Floating through life on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala

Waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways, sigh…

97. Going nuts during Thingyan, Myanmar’s water festival

Water party in a pop-up day club

This is a common street scene in Yangon during the water festival. Click on the title to read about our experiences during Thingyan.

96. Trekking in the Himalayas

Our first and very ill prepared trek at 4300m altitude. Click on the title to read a post related to trekking.

95. Rum cocktails in Castro’s Cuba

Cuba during Castro’s reign was such a bizarre yet unique and enchanting place. At least for visitors. Things may have changed but I’m sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!

94. Hiking in Valbona, Albania

After a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption. Click on the title to read about my hike in the Albanian Alps.

93. Spending the night in the garden of Eden in the Democratic Republic of Congo

Watching the sun set after a long walk in what seemed like the garden of Eden. DRC has fantastic nature, I wish I could say the same for the political situation.

92. Seeing Tarsiers in the wild

A childhood dream came true when we spotted these cuties in the jungle of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Click on the title to read more about our time in Sulawesi.

91. Fishing, sunbathing and drinking on a catamaran in Los Roques, Venezuela

My first time on a caribbean beach, I was overwhelmed by the high tropical factor

90. Traveling by train in Russia

I got to know my cabin mates by communicating with signs on a 40 hour train ride to the Russian Arctic

89. Hiking the Cocora valley in Colombia

Another long time travel dream come true! Click on the title to read about our hike in the Cocora Valley.

88. Discovering the architectural jewels of Iran

Feeling tiny amongst Iranian architectural masterpieces

87. Camping on a beach in Oman and finding nestling turtles

Camping on a deserted beach in southern Oman.

We stumbled upon some sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Click on the title to read about my road trip to Oman.

86. Learning to scuba dive

Wreck diving in the Philippines, a new world opening up…

My first open water dive in Zanzibar, one of many more to come.

85. Trying to understand the Israeli-Palestinan conflict

The more I talked to local people on both sides of the conflict, the more confused I was on the issues. No matter how much I hung out in the old streets of Jerusalem. Read more about my trip to Israel.

Crossing the horrendous border to Palestine. Click on the title to read more about my findings in Palestine.

84. Motorcycling through India

An epic drive from South to North India on a 30 year old Royal Enfield. Click on the titel to read about out motorcycle trip through India.

83. Unexpectedly ending up in Paris and attending a crazy party in “la Machine du Moulin Rouge”

The evening took an unexpected turn and I found myself in Paris. Wearing pink fur and a white wig…

82. Travelling solo

I find traveling solo extremely liberating and enriching. Everybody should try it at least once in their life! Click on the title to read why I travel solo even when I’m in a relationship.

81. Trying to catch a glimpse of Nessie in Loch Ness in the Scottish highlands

Nessie not found.

So much for part 1 of my favourite travel experiences. Continue reading part 2, part 3, part4, part 5 and part 6!

Which of these experiences would you want to read more about?

The post “An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 24, 2015
Mindo for the broke, Ecuador

Tucked away in the cloud forest, on the slopes of the Ecuadorian Andes lies the sleepy town of Mindo: the perfect spot for a range of adrenaline sports. Whether it’s tubing, canyoning, mountain biking, canopy flying or hiking, you can do it all in Mindo.

Because I was physically unable to partake in any of these activities, I had a far more mellow “Mindo experience” than most visitors. And yet, Mindo was my favourite place in Ecuador. There is something magical in the air in Mindo.

our cabin in the cloud forest

Since adventure sports were not an option for me, I created what I would call a “Mindo for the broke”-itinerary. Though we weren’t actually broke, I figured this is exactly how I would spend my time if I had run out of money: skipping all the pricier adrenaline activities. Despite that they’re relatively cheap in Ecuador, they’ll still eat away at your budget.

My pseudo ‘Mindo for the broke’ itinerary mainly consisted of…

Eating.

Broke or not, a woman’s got to eat, right?!

The restaurants in Mindo serve excellent food! I had a meal in almost every restaurant and café in town -not very hard considering the small size of Mindo. Every single dish I tried blew my socks off. Admittedly, that might have something to do with the fact that we arrived in Mindo after having lived almost two months in a small isolated beach town with limited food options.

Some of the most impressive dishes were the steak in coffee sauce in El Quetzal, and the Mindo burger slathered in chocolate barbecue sauce in Inti Killa. Incredible!

German inspired plate of finger food in ‘the beehive’

delicious veggie burger. Not the best looking plate of food we’ve had but we attacked the best dishes with such haste, it was impossible to photograph them before eating.

Coffee and cakes.

This is where you can see this is a pseudo budget itinerary. Because let’s face it, coffee and sweets breaks aren’t really a necessity in life… (or are they?)

But I figured, if I can’t have the adrenaline rush, why not indulge in a sugar and caffeine rush?! As it rains quite often in the cloud forest, what better way to wait for the rain to blow away with a warm drink and some carbs? El Quetzal served the best brownie I’ve ever eaten. EVER! I would go back to Mindo just for that brownie!

on a quest to find Mindo’s best brownie. This wasn’t it. But that view though…

carrot cake and a latte while we wait for the rain to stop

Joining a chocolate tour.

From bean to chocolate bar to best brownie ever. After having eaten that amazing brownie, I noticed El Quetzal also offers 6$ chocolate tours. It sounds like a cheesy touristy thing to do -and in a way it was- but I was curious to find out all about the chocolate making process. So I caved and joined an elderly group of tourists on the tour.

raw, fermented cacao beans

Hiking to the waterfalls.

Just outside of town, there’s a series of alluring waterfalls surrounded by lush forest foliage. The hike was mild enough that we were able to really take in the crisp mountain air, chase butterflies and splash our faces with cool spring water. To get to the waterfall trails, we took a ride in a cable car soaring high above the canopy, side by side with the wild toucans. The ride could be considered an adrenaline inducing activity by an acrophobe but to everyone else, it can only be described as a pleasant and stunning short jaunt. The hike is free, the cable car ride costs just a few bucks.

the cable car to get to the waterfalls

an easy trail to follow

dense cloud forest

chasing waterfalls in Mindo

Hummingbird gazing.

My favourite activity in Mindo was relaxing in the hummingbird garden. We paid a dollar or so to enter the garden and had a drink surrounded by hundreds of hungry hummingbirds. I can’t say I’ve ever experienced anything quite like this before. The buzzing sound of their wings flapping at incredible speed, left me tantalised. I could have easily sat there all day just marvelling at nature…

To find the hummingbird garden, walk into any tourist office in town and tell them you want to see the birds. They’ll point you in the right direction.

hungry hummingbirds

And thus ended our 4 relaxing days in Mindo lindo. Full stomachs, no adrenaline, lungs filled with fresh air and a warm and fuzzy feeling when thinking about Magical Mindo.

Are you into adventure sports?

The post “Mindo for the broke ” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 10, 2015
Hiking the Cocora Valley in Colombia

I was never a big hiker until I undertook a multi-day trek in Nepal a few years ago. While I still can’t really claim to be a hardcore hiker, I do take time for hikes a lot more often now. The distances, the physical challenge and the long hours don’t scare me anymore… In fact, it’s now what I’m drawn to!

Ten years ago, when I visited Colombia, I spent the little time I had in the country visiting my local friends instead of visiting the country. Though I never regretted that decision, I was bummed to have missed out on what seemed like one of Colombia’s highlights: the Cocora valley. “I’ll just have to come back one day” I said…

And come back I did! Ten years later, I finally had the chance to visit the Cocora valley in Colombia! What was even better, this time around I was actually into hiking!

This hike was not only a highlight in Colombia for me, it was one of my favourites of all times. Not too long, not too strenuous and full of gorgeous and unique views.

We headed to the town of Salento, the hub for hikes in the valley. I found the town itself to be very touristy but extremely charming. We spent our first day in Salento wandering around, walking in and out of little boutiques, eating tasty dishes and drinking incredible coffee, straight from the source.

Colombian coffee on the side of the road

taking multiple food breaks a day…

The next day we woke up shortly after dawn to start our hike. From the town square, a bunch of jeeps were waiting to bring hikers to the valley. The ride to the valley in itself was absolutely stunning! I would have loved to walk there like some people did, but I figured walking those extra kilometres would be pushing it. Besides, a ride hanging from the back of a willy jeep seemed so much cooler!

the jeep to Cocora

Because it had been raining the days before our arrival, we rented some rubber boots from a kiosk at the beginning of the trail. They turned out not to be necessary but I was happy I could walk freely, jump into mud pools and cross small creeks without a second thought.

getting the most out of my rubber boots

The scenery kept changing as our hike progressed. From farms, to jungle, over hanging bridges, through flower fields…

farmer on his way to his finca

farms

mud puddles in the morning light

in the woods…

over the bridges

high altitude flowers

Finally we arrived in an exotic fairy tale setting…

hello wax palms!

enjoying the unique view

The tall wax palms skyline. Just incredible!

I could have stayed for hours!

I never really understood how it was possible that we didn’t see any of the other hiker during our whole time in the valley. Especially because we started out with so many. We did the somewhat shorter version of the hike, skipping the hummingbird station, Acaime. No regrets here as we saw lots of humming birds on the way.

a dream come true

A word of advice for anyone thinking about doing this hike, leave as early in the morning as possible. You’ll have magical morning light to start your hike with, you’ll be less likely to get caught in the rain (it often comes down pouring the afternoon) and you’ll avoid the crowds. Just check when the first jeeps leave and make sure you catch one. It’s a half day hike so don’t forget to bring water and some snacks!

Did you know about the Cocora Valley? Would you put it on your bucket list?

The post “Hiking the Cocora Valley, Colombia” first appeared on Travel Cake.

August 28, 2015
Backpacking Uganda in Photo’s

As I previously mentioned in my post on backpacking in Africa, travelling in that part of the world can add up to be quite pricey. But with a little imagination and a sense of adventure you can travel/backpack in Africa on a relatively low budget. Of course, it will never be as low as India, Nepal or South East Asia but still cheap enough that anyone could afford it.

One of the African destinations that lends itself perfectly for an interesting, budget friendly Africa vacation is Uganda. I’ve visited the country twice, both times as a backpacker using public transportation.

This is what our budget backpack trip in Uganda looked like:

COUCHSURFING IN KAMPALA

I’ve quite often used Couch Surfing in my “travelling career”; both as the guest and as the host. When I Couch Surf, I usually do so in big cities as they can be quite overwhelming when you first arrive and I prefer experiencing sprawling urban area’s through the eyes of a local or expat instead of following a guide book.

As it usually goes with CS, you don’t always know where you will end up. We were in luck in Kampala and stayed with an awesome expat in one of the city’s fanciest areas, Kololo. Our host took us to his favourite spots in town where we chatted and laughed over some cool beers and fresh tilapia.

spending the night in a stylish loft with a view over Kampala

weekend at one of Kampala’s lake side beaches with beers and new friends

On the second trip, I stayed in a quaint hostel (ICU guesthouse, dorm 15$) on the edge of town where many semi-long term volunteers reside. Alternatively you could stay at Red Chili Hideway, it’s also outside of town but with a swimming pool and a free daily shuttle to the city centre. Red Chili offers a good deal on trips to Murchison Falls as well.

EATING ROLEX AND OTHER STREET FOOD

When on a budget, street food is the way to go. In Uganda, you’ll find grilled kebabs and barbecued bananas/corn -to name a few- sizzling on every street corner. The most popular (and in my opinion most tasty) street side snack are rolex (comes from ‘roll eggs’): a tomato-onion-paprika omelette rolled onto a freshly baked chapati. One would really have to have two left hands to mess this snack up! We’d eat rolex from the street almost every day for lunch and it never disappointed.

getting rolex by the lake, a shocking sight for Ugandans as rolex is considered a snack for the poor. Some find it hard to understand why a “rich” tourist would choose to eat rolex.

the smell of the grilling meat is often much better than the quality of the pieces on your stick, unless you like bouncy, chewy meat …

I know these deep fried grasshoppers don’t look particularly appealing, but they’re delicious! Like a cross between salted nuts and potato crisps. Anyways, they’re much cheaper than the ones you get in trendy restaurants in the West nowadays!

SAFARI’S AND HIKES IN QUEEN ELISABETH NATIONAL PARK

Just having just crossed the border form DRC (that’s a story for another post) we were in desperate need for some luxury and internet. So we threw our budget out of the window (for a day) and checked into a higher end lodge. Considering most lodges in and around the African national parks often have rates starting at €250 per night, this lodge – Kingfisher Lodge Kichwamba- was a bargain at €160 a night, breakfast and dinner included for both of us!

Disclaimer: these were the rates in 2011, converted with an interesting currency exchange from US Dollar to Euro. Today’s rates in Kingfisher Kichwamba start at 205$ for a double room, half board.

R&R in paradise after roughing it in DRC.

It was exactly what we needed: relaxing by the pool, a western meal á la carte, getting some work done, a much needed wifi fix and a view to die for.

infinity pool with endless views over Queen Elisabeth National Park

spotted some elephants from our room’s porch

not a bad way to get some work done!

After soaking in as much as possible from our splurge, we returned to our backpacker’s reality the next day. We hitchhiked to Simba Safari Camp where we stayed in a dorm, talk about contrasts! It’s a great budget place to stay, they also offer private rooms.

hitchhiking on the equator

From there we arranged a boat safari on the Kazinga Channel, bringing along a cold beer to enjoy with the scenery. You don’t need to book a package tour, you can easily arrange transport to the departure point and buy a ticket for the boat trip once you are there. Though I can’t recall the exact price, I can tell you it was definitely less than 30$ per person.

crusing down the channel, spotting wild life and having a cold one… What a chilled out way to spend an afternoon!

Instead of booking a multi-day safari package, we hired a car with driver to take us on a game drive in the national park. Though Queen Elisabeth NP may be far from the most impressive safari I’ve been on, it very well is the cheapest. Perfect for animal lovers on a budget!

crown birds at dawn

crater lake

getting close to some lazy lions

There’s plenty to do in QE National Park like chimp tracking or looking for tree climbing lions but we opted for a more economical activity: hiking in ‘Maramagambo Forest’. Since we already had a car and driver for the day, the only cost left was that of the entrance fee to the forest and a tip for the guide taking you along the trails, pointing out various species of primates, birds and medicinal plants.

Our main reason to hit the forest, was to see the massive python living in a bat cave. Apparently, it doesn’t hunt, it just opens its mouth and waits for one of the thousands of bats to fly in. This is all the python does, all day long. Therefore it has gotten so fat, it can hardly move. We were keen on seeing the spectacle. Unfortunately we missed the freak show as the python had already returned deep inside the cave after its daily suntanning moment, when it drags itself out of the cave.

a beautiful walk through the forest in search of the fat lazy python

now that’s what I call a bat cave!

TOTAL RELAXATION BY LAKE BUNYONYI

Next we headed to Lake Bunyonyi, if you’ve been following this blog for a while, you might have read my post on Lake Bunyonyi, my favourite spot in Africa so far.

Lake Bunyonyi

Both times we stayed in a magical place called Byoona Amagara, definitely the best value lodge I’ve stayed in. For just 15$ per person per night, we had a small geodome with private bathroom and a stunning view over the Ugandan lake. They also provide dorms (7$) if you’re really tight on cash but the beauty of staying here is undoubtedly the geodome experience. There are plenty of other places to stay on Lake Bunyonyi, I haven’t tried any of them as I’m totally hooked on Byoona Amagara…

(clockwise) typical Bunyonyi flowery tree, stretching with my sister on our geodome’s sun deck, boating on the lake, view from the bed in the large geodome

the small geodome, no doors. Just a mosquito net between nature and yourself.

eco-shower with a view

The entire trip in Uganda took us about 10 days, travelling quite slowly, spending enough time at each destination. You could backpack the same trip in fewer days but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. If you have more time, why not add a stop in Jinja and/or a jaunt to Murchison falls to see more animals and a stunning waterfall.

Have you been to Uganda? Would you consider going?

The post “Backpacking Uganda in Photo’s” first appeared on Travel Cake.

April 23, 2015
Eating Nepal

While Nepal is not particularly reputed for its “haute cuisine”, it does offer a few dishes that can tickle the taste buds.

Finding a tasty meal in Kathmandu is easy; there are foreign and local restaurants in abundance around the city. I had some authentic tasting Mexican food in a back ally somewhere in town, spent days ordering heavenly platters of goodness in a psychedelic vegetarian Israeli joint and savoured the best chocolate cake of Asia in a quaint road side café. All without much of a search. In Pokhara as well, there are enough great restaurants to make you gain the weight back you lost on a trek.

pancakes for breakfast in Kathmandu

The quest for a tasty meal becomes quite a bit harder once you leave the big cities. There is relatively little variation in the dishes and whether they’ll be bland or not, is always a gamble. These are the most common options you will find in Nepal.

Momo’s

This your surest option if you want to have a descent quick meal. A succulent ball of meat wrapped in a blanket of glutinous dough; momo’s are sold at every street corner. Though usually steamed, the less popular fried variation is also available. They are comparable to dim sum but with a filling packed with spices and herbs. You would never guess from the way they look but they’re often incredibly juicy and fragrant. The best place to eat them is at a food stall on the street. They’re steamed right in front of you; as fresh as can get. Every now and then you can coma across momo’s with fillings other than meat- Snickers for example…

fresh street momo’s

deep fried snicker momo’s, not a winner combination

King Curd

Juju dhau a.k.a “the King of all curds” is a speciality from Bhaktapur. It’s made with naturally sweet buffalo milk infused with cardamom, cloves, coconut or ginger, depending on the manufacturer. The added spices are almost unnoticeable while still making a world of difference. It is then stored in clay bowls in a naturally cool place.With no added sugar, the king curd serves as an excellent refreshing snack or breakfast food.

You can find Juju dhau all over town; just look for a (cardboard) sign with a drawing of a pot of clay or order it in a restaurant. Inform yourself so you get the real deal instead of the watered down version made with powdered milk.

incredible breakfast curd on a Bhaktapur rooftop

Dal Bhat

This dish is on every menu, no matter where you are in Nepal. I’ve tried it on several occasions but I was never convinced. I found it bland and unappetizing. Then again I’m not a fan of lentils in the first place and with it being the main ingredient of the dish… The only people I’ve heard say they really liked Dal Bhat were the Nepali, vegetarians and vegans. So who knows, you might enjoy it.

dal bhat, looking tastier than it is

Trekking Food

Learn to love ramen noodles and/or eggs, because unless you’re bringing your own food, that’s pretty much what you’ll live off during a tea house trek. Also on the menu are fried rice, soups and a pricey dal baht. Any dish containing rice or fresh ingredients will pricey in the mountains because they have to be transported all the way up to the villages.

I like a bowl of Shakpa soup, a Newari comfort food. It’s exactly what you need to warm up in the chilly (ice cold) evenings. That being said, I loved trekking food in general, not because of the taste, I mean let’s face it, ramen noodles and egg twice a day is not the most exciting dish. But I loved it because of the gorgeous views it would come with, made everything taste so much better.

simple food with a view

spicy buffalo meat

Masala Lassi

Just like in India, the Newari lassi is sort of a natural, watered down yoghurt drink. It’s all natural and you can add fruits or honey to sweeten the drink. Or even better, go for the masala lassi. Masala is a mix of spices, in this case it’s often black pepper. Black pepper in your yoghurt? YES! It’s a fantastic combination!

lassi any time of the day

Yak Cheese

Who would have guessed there is incredible local cheese in Asia? None of us European cheese snobs, that’s for sure! Yak cheese grew to become one of my favourites. It’s a yellow cheese with lots character, which doesn’t seem to melt. Ideal to bring along on hikes. A definite must try.

The food may not be the country’s highlight but Nepal makes up for what it may be lacking in the kitchen with mind blowing nature, beautiful people, fascinating culture, great art and so much more. You won’t be worrying about the food much.

Have you eaten in Nepal? What did you think?

The post “Eating Nepal” first appeared on Travel Cake.

April 5, 2015
What’s in… Iran?

Almost every time I excitedly announced I was headed to Iran, the most puzzled looks thrown my way. Reactions ranging from “Are you nuts?! You’re gonna get yourself killed!” to a calmer “Iran? What’s in Iran?”. No one ever asks you that when you say you’re going to Thailand or France… It seems like “war, nuclear bombs, danger, terror and veiled women” are what spring to most people’s mind when they think of Iran.

Since so little people know about Iran as a tourist destination, I’ve decided to help chase this incorrect image of Iran out of the world. The way popular media is portraying the country at the moment, is far from the reality I have seen and experienced. It’s time to bust the misconception.

not so scary

So what’s in Iran worth travelling for?

Divine architecture

No matter which city or town you go to, you’ll surely find yourself facing a building in total awe at some point. Palaces, mosques, mansions… They’ll draw your attention with their ornate facades and colourful domes. This was the original reason why I wanted to travel to Iran even though I’m not particularly an architecture buff.

Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan

just a few examples of Iran’s divine architecture (click to enlarge)

Tea and delicious treats

We stopped for tea breaks at least twice a day, every day. Alcohol is not officially available so instead of having a beer or a glass of wine on a terrace, in Iran you’ll sip on tea -usually served in beautiful cups and accompanied by an assortment of sweets typical of the region. A simple tea break then turns into such a treat, especially if held in one of the many pretty tea gardens or courtyards.

tea with saffron sugar

in a tea garden with fresh dates on the side

tea with regional sweets

Warm and welcoming people

I was recently asked where I found the friendliest people during my travels. It’s a hard question to answer as I’ve encountered so many friendly nations but I must say, Iran is definitely in my top 3. Not only were the people genuinely friendly and interested in the visitor, they’d invite us to have dinner at their house, they’d talk to us on the street- just to say welcome, they’d pay for our bus rides- just because. No hidden agenda, just out of hospitality. Iranians did everything in their power to make us feel at home in their country. Seldom have I seen a nation as giving and as enthusiastic about welcoming visitors. For meeting the people alone, Iran is worth a trip; you wouldn’t even need to visit anything.

women taking time off work to welcome us to their country

so much love…

Cool rooftops

One of my favourite things to do in Iran was to climb up to the roof of a building. Unlike any of the roofs I have seen before, I often imagined I had landed on another planet. The interesting part is that the unusual constructions on the roofs all have a well thought purpose for you to find out. The rooftops are ideal places to watch the sun set over the city.

rooftop, free tourist attraction… (click to enlarge)

Lively bazars where you can shop in peace

I’m a big fan of browsing bazars and I generally accept the hassle that often comes with it. Every town in Iran boasts at least one bazar featuring some top notch goods. The best part however, is that they are pretty much hassle free! You can browse the stands in peace without feeling pressure from the salesman to buy every item you glance at. The shopkeeper will take his time to explain things if you ask, to show you other options if you’re interested and to give you a taste if you seem puzzled. All the while giving you a genuine smiling nod if you walk away. This is bazar shopping at its best!

bazar shopping (click to enlarge)

A great variety of landscapes

You can’t put Iran in a box when it comes to landscapes: snowy mountains (where you can ski in winter!), flower clad hills, arid desert plains, moon landscapes, palm fringed islands, woodlands… You’ll find it all within the borders of the country. If you enjoy the outdoors, you’ll probably have a tough time deciding where to go.

sanddunes

woodlands and waterfalls, yes this too is Iran! (source)

dried up salt lake

UNESCO heritage sites

There are 17 UNESCO heritage site in Iran at the moment and you’ll probably have an opinion on which sites should be added to the list once you start visiting the country. I’m not a UNESCO site hunter but the list is usually a great indicator of how impressive/valuable a site is. The most renowned one must be Persepolis, the name alone would have you dreaming. Walking through it and listening to the tales of ancient Persia only continues to bring your imagination in overdrive.

gates of Persepolis

Persepolis

An exciting food adventure

The Persian cuisine is unlike any of the cuisines I have tasted so far. The ingredients are relatively standard but the way they are put together results in flavours that were entirely new to my tastebuds. I tried finding significant similarities with other cuisines but failed to do so. If you’re not too lazy to look beyond the widely available fast food (pizza, hamburger, kebab and Turkish dürüm) there is a huge array of local dishes that will take you through an exciting food adventure.

a culinary discovery with every meal (click to enlarge)

3000+ year old mud castles to explore

Yes, that’s 3000, no typo here. That’s how old some of the Persian mud castles are. Some are still in a good enough state for you to enter, wander around and get lost. No guards, no ropes, Indiana Jones style minus the booby traps. You’ll probably be the only one there which make the experience even more fascinating.

one of the many mud castles we played in

still in good state

A refined and interesting culture

Persian culture is very elegant and refined. Poetry, fine music, great literature… It has a very distinct identity which, contrary to what many people believe, is nothing like the Arab or Ottoman culture. As a regular tourist, you’ll just be scrapping of the surface, but it’s enough to get a taste or to get hooked and start digging deeper.

The people of Iran are very aware of the bad reputation their country is receiving abroad and they try everything they can to show travellers that Iran is not a bloodthirsty, dangerous nation full of criminals or terrorists. We were often asked what people back home thought of Iran. Unfortunately we had to confirm their fear and admit most people didn’t have a great image of the country. They asked us to tell our story, to tell people the truth about Iran and its people since they can’t. I hope this post convinces even just one person, that Iran is a beautiful, interesting and safe place to travel to.

Would you give Iran a chance?

The post “What’s in… Iran?” first appeared on Travel Cake.

April 1, 2015