Category: Middle East

  • What’s in… Palestine?

    What’s in… Palestine?

    Israel is, agreeably, a popular travel destination that sees millions of visitor each year. But what about Palestine? As it is often forgotten by travellers or ignored because of its size, ‘danger’ or whatever the reasons may be.

    I felt the need to find out…

    What’s in palestine?

    Very competent barbers.

    Like in the olden days, they use a sharp knife to shave every single facial hair off the surface. Complementary head massage at the end.

     barber palestine
    trust the barber

     

    Bethlehem and Nazareth; birthplace and hometown of Jezus Christ. 

    Pilgrims cross the border from Israel and make a quick stop to Jezus Christ’s place of birth. A grand basilica -church of Nativity- was built on the spot where said birth supposedly took place. As you can imagine, the town has a plethora of kitsch souvenirs on sale everywhere.

    touristy

     

    Hummus and falafel galore!

    There is some argument between Israel and Palestine on the origin of these dishes, but let’s not nitpick about who started it or who did it better… At the end of the day, you will find top-notch hummus and falafel in Palestine. Some of the best I’ve ever eaten!

    hummus and falafel
    hummus and falafel

     

    Lively market scenes…

    As in every Middle Eastern country, there is shouting, haggling, laughter and various smells of spices, meat and fruit whisking by.

    market Palestine
    at the market
    having a hot mint tea just outside the market
    having a hot mint tea just outside the market

     

    Israeli military men and women armed to the teeth

    This is a phenomenon you see in both Palestine and in Israel. It’s very unusual for most of us to see heavy ammunition resting on the hip of a 19 year-old, while they’re having a laugh and a smoke. You get used to it… eventually.

    army
    army

     

    A concrete wall that’s 8 meter tall and segregates Israelis from Palestinians. 

    The extensive wall surrounds the Occupied Territories and is equipped with militarised watch towers overlooking both sides as well as snipers making sure nothing or nobody tries to cross. Palestinians use the wall space to express their dreams, wishes and the injustice they feel is done to them.

    wall palestine
    walking around the endless wall
    wall with watch tower, palestine
    watch tower and palestinian art
    wall palestine
    expression and protest via street art
    wall art, palestine
    wall art

    Massive refugee camps

    When I heard about the ‘refugee camp’, I thought of the camps I had seen before in war zones; temporary blue tents, white bags of rice and flour, people standing in line to get some food. That’s not what the Palestinian camps are like. They are “permanent” refugee camps. Small concrete houses/rooms next to one another, housing several member of the extended family. They have schools, mosques and playgrounds. People have been living in these camps for years and probably will keep living that way for a while.

    We stayed in one of the camps and were shown around by a resident; a 25 year-old man who has been living there his entire life. He told us about his struggles, his daily life and openly shared his opinions. If you have the opportunity to visit the West Bank, make sure to visit Dheisheh Refugee Camp. Even if you don’t spend the night, it might help you get some insight on the conflict’s history and the current developments.

    Dheisheh Refugee Camp
    Dheisheh Refugee Camp
    kids at school in the camp
    kids at school in the camp

    So what else is in Palestine? 

    Things you would never believe if I told you so.

     

    So is Palestine worth a visit? Absolutely.

    Contrary to popular belief, it’s fairly easy for many nationalities to enter Palestine and the locals are very pleased to receive independent visitors.

    Is it dangerous? Some places are. Beyond the protests happening in some villages, life goes on. Generally speaking, if you stay away from the protests, there is not much danger for you as an outsider. Check the current political situation before you decide to cross the border!

    peace
    peace…

    After years of traveling, this is one of the off -the-beaten-track destinations that really touched me. It’s a place we’ve heard so much about in the news and it seems as though the “shock value is gone down and so has the media coverage. Eventually, it has been “forgotten”.

    I choose not to write politics, but visiting Israel and Palestine, is a trip involving politics to some degree whether you like it or not. Both places are impressive in their own ways, couldn’t we all just get along? *Dreams…

    peace

     

    Have you ever considered visiting Palestine? Do countries with an unstable political character scare you off as travel destinations?

    The post “What’s in… Palestine?” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • My Top Ten Experiences in Israel

    My Top Ten Experiences in Israel

    In no particular order: 

     

    1. Shabbat dinner with an Israeli family

    After more or less getting kicked off the market place by the orthodox jewish man blowing his “you better close your shop coz it’s Shabbat”-horn, we headed to our Israeli friends’s home where we were welcomed with an extensive and delicious Shabbat dinner. We learned about Shabbat practices and rituals. If you’re heading to Israel: get yourself invited for Shabbat!

    announcing shabbat
    announcing shabbat
    Shabbat dinner
    Shabbat dinner

     

    2. Bicycling in Tel Aviv

    It’s certainly the best way of exploring the city. Especially during Shabbat when there is significantly less traffic. The city is flat and features long bicycle lanes and cycling routes that lead you to the city’s highlights or allow you to enjoy the back alleys. Cruising the empty streets and beach boulevard while the warm sun caresses your shoulders and the wind gently re-styles your hair, I can’t think of anything more pleasant to do in a big city. Stop anywhere interesting for a snack, a drink or a power nap. 

    Tel Aviv boulevard, Israel
    beach boulevard

     

    3.  Tel Aviv’s hip but laid back night life

    Semi-spontaneous rooftop parties, clubs you may enter wearing flip flops and quirky underground bars with retro ms. Pac-man machines. That’s the kind of nightlife I enjoy! Everyone is out doing what they like, not caring about what you’re doing or how you’re dressed. I mean how many clubs allow you to enter while carrying a huge backpack?

    clubbing in backpack
    clubbing in backpack

     

    4. Daily doses of hummus, falafel and charcoal grilled meat

    Not a single day went by without consuming one of these staples, preferably all of them. Why? Because they’re just that tasty! I’m usually not the biggest hummus or falafel fan, but I quickly realised that what I knew as hummus and falafel, were just the ugly stepsisters of the real thing. Don’t even get started on the grilled meat…

    hummus and falafel
    hummus and falafel

     

    5. Wandering the streets of Jerusalem’s old city

    Despite the massive amounts of tourists, there are still plenty of back streets to be discovered by the independent traveller. There is a unusual yet calm and somewhat charged atmosphere hanging around the old city. Almost as if you could feel the weight of a thick millennia old history book pressing on you. At times, once away from the crowds, you get the impression you’ve stepped back 2000+ years. I hardly visited any churches/buildings. Just strolling through the quiet streets had a much greater impact on me. 

     old city, Jerusalem, Israel
    quiet streets of the old city

     

    6. Watching the religious and pilgrims reaching spiritual bliss in Jerusalem

    Muslim, Jewish or Christian, people from all three religions have a good reason to pilgrim to Jerusalem. Christians flock to The Church of the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus Christ was allegedly crucified and buried. The Jewish community pleads by the Wailing Wall while Muslims pray in the Dome of Rock. I found it fascinating to see people complete their pilgrimages in full ecstasy and tears. Others were sliding their written requests to god into the cracks of the holy wall. I spent several hours marvelling at the way people were so intensely and positively touched by religion.

    pilgrims, Israel
    pilgrims at their point of arrival
    prayer, Israel
    emotions running high at J.C’s tomb
    secret messages
    secret messages

     

    7. Crossing into Palestine and back

    It was a very bizarre and uncomfortable border crossing.  One that involves strong men and women carrying heavy machine guns, endless rolls of barbed wire, an uncountable amount of security cameras, intense passport checks, high concrete walls and firmly gated passageways. It’s how I imagine a heavily guarded prison to be like. It wasn’t really a fun experience but definitely an important one; a real eye opener. I won’t get deeper into the issue, as I chose not to talk politics on this blog. 

    on my way to Palestine
    on my way to Palestine

     

    So on a lighter note: 

     

    8. Floating in the dead sea

    A big touristic cliché, but still… Such a peculiar feeling! I tried going underwater, I really couldn’t! The floating was the main draw, but I also found it quite interesting to amble on a salt beach. More fun yet, when it was time to play around in the mud!

    dead sea float
    dead sea float
    salt beach
    salt beach 
    natural mud bath, Israel
    natural mud bath

     

    9. Talking politics over beers and nargileh

    When in Israel, at one point or another, politics do come up. The discussions I had with locals were so interesting and surprising, that they made my ‘top-experiences’ list. Meeting new Israeli friends made the entire trip much more fascinating… intriguing even. The beers and double apple flavoured nargileh (water pipe) added spice to the conversations. As it did to all the following conversations, for that matter. Smoking nargileh is a crucial part of the regional culture, so when in Rome… 

    new friends, nargileh and beer
    new friends, nargileh and beer

     

    10. Learning, Learning, Learning (and being confused)

    I could cite another tourist attraction here, but one of the things that really set this trip apart from others was the amount of new things I learnt. About conflicts, about people, about religion, about history, about peace, about beliefs, about the human race… It was overwhelming and memorable. I realised that during a trip to Israel one must really open his mind and heart to get the most out of it. 

     

    What I wish I had done in Israel: stay at a kibbutz; have a drink in the underwater restaurant in Eilat; party at a secret desert psy trance gathering and explore the Galilee, land of milk and honey. I guess I’ll have to go back.

     

    Have you been to Israel? Would you ever go? 

    The post “My Top Ten Experiences in Israel” first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • Road tripping Oman

    Road tripping Oman

    The best or perhaps the only way of exploring Oman properly is by car/motorcycle. Whether you’re driving a rental, hiring a car with driver, or hitching a ride from friends/strangers doesn’t matter, as long you have some kind of motorised vehicle at your disposal.

    Sure, it’s not the cheapest way, but if you choose taking public transport, you’ll miss out on all the natural beauty Oman has to offer. The few available busses will only take you from town A to town B, which means you’ll have to skip all the beautiful wadi’s hidden in between.

    The only big cost will be the actual renting fee. Gas in Oman is literally cheaper than water. At the time of writing, the gas prices were at €0.23 per litre and that’s not a typo.

    Gas

    I was lucky enough to meet Zeina, a magnificent Omani lady who had a car called Boxy and was up for a trip with me. Before I knew it, we we’re cruising on the Omani highway on a road trip from Muscat, the capital, to the coastal town of Sur.

    Strangely enough, it started raining cats and dogs as soon as we set off. Seriously?! Rain in the deserts of Oman?! The average rainfall is 10cm per year… I assume it all came pouring down that specific day…Our car Boxy, wasn’t even equipped for such a rare event! Zeina, told me she had never used her windshield wipers before. Which explained the state they were in: practically non-existant. We laughed hysterically and waited on the side of the road until the rain showers eased away.

    desert rain
    desert rain

    As soon as the visibility improved we continued our journey and made our first stop. The sinkhole. Although it didn’t look all that attractive in the rain, I jumped in and took a dip anyway. “Ain’t gonna let a bit a rain scare me off”. It turned out to be a great decision as we had the whole place to ourselves and eventually, as always,  there was sunshine after the rain.

    swimming in in the rain
    swimming in in the rain
    sunshine after the rain
    sunshine after the rain

    After a long swim, we resumed our journey to Sur, where we spent the afternoon strolling the corniche.

    kids at play, oman
    kids at play
    lost in translation
    lost in translation
    men, corniche, oman
    men hanging out on the corniche
    traditional dhow, oman
    traditional dhow

    Once the sun had set, we tried to find the campsite we had heard about. Quite the challenge, considering the road signs were either missing or not lit. According to local villagers who kindly tried to explain where the campsite was, our poor Boxy wasn’t powerful enough too handle the off road terrain on the way there. The villagers guided us to a ‘better’ camping spot. We lit a fire using the washed up logs and chunks of wood. Suddenly, a fisherman in a pick-up truck popped up and drove us to a specific part of the beach to show us something “special”…

    turtles nesting on the beach, oman
    turtles nesting on the beach
    up close and personal with the sea turtles
    up close and personal with the sea turtles

    The rest of our night on the beach was not uneventful, but that’s a tale I won’t be writing about today. It’s one of those stories that are better told in person, not in writing. The following morning, we kicked off our day in the neighbouring village with a delicious breakfast offered to us by the fisherman. After that, there was a lot of driving, laughing, eating… Your typical road trip scenario with stops in places like these…

    ghost towns
    ghost towns
    Sur, oman
    Sur
    hot pink pick-up truck
    hot pink pick-up truck
    city by the sea, oman
    city by the sea
     dead desert cows
    trying to figure out the mystery of the dead desert cows
    wadi, oman
    wadi
    wadi
    wadi perfect for a dip

     

    Oman is now one of my favourite destinations. I love the spirit of the people, the laid back atmosphere, the emerald waters, the hospitality and generosity,  the dramatic landscapes, the culture- some parts of which are strongly linked with the Swahili culture of Zanzibar

    Shokran jazeelan, Oman and Zeina for an unforgettable trip!

    Would you consider vacationing in Oman?

    The post “Road tripping Oman” first appeared on Travel Cake. 

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