Category: Iran

  • What to Wear in Iran

    What to Wear in Iran

    Figuring out my wardrobe for my trip to Iran turned out to be a very interesting part of the travel planning. How do you dress in a country where showing your hair in public is illegal? Despite the fact that I had conducted some serious research, I was still feeling insecure about the outfits bulking up my backpack. I crossed my fingers, hoping that my outfits were descent enough and figured I could always buy a more appropriate attire if it wasn’t the case.

    I traveled in Iran at the end of autumn and with temperatures dropping significantly, it didn’t feel unnatural covering myself up. You may have a different experience if traveling to Iran during spring or summer.

    Iran autmn fall, Abbynayeh
    Enjoying the Iranian autumn scenery

     

    Here’s a short summary of what to wear in Iran…

    MEN

    As it so often is, the dress code for men is simple as can be. You could sum it up in just a few words: everyday street wear. Leave your shorts and flip flops at home and you’re basically good to go. We found long-sleeved, cotton or linen shirts to be the perfect attire for men. You can roll up the sleeves on hot days and it makes you look relatively classy. Iranian men dress sharp and take good care of their appearances, you’ll fit right in.

    Iran what to wear
    when it comes to dressing culturally appropriate, men always have it easier

     

    Let’s move on the the more complex part of the equation:

     

    WOMEN

    For women it’s a bit more of an adjustment.

    HEADSCARF

    Or  hijab. When in public, you are obliged by law to cover your hair at all times. So yes, in the hotel lobby and in the restaurant but no, not in your room or at a friend’s house. There is no restriction on how colourful your hijab can be, anything goes. Though most women wear somewhat sober colours; pastels, neutrals or dark scarves with a subtle print or none at all. As a noob, avoid silk headscarves as they tend to slide off your hair very easily. A cotton based scarf will do the trick for us “hijab amateurs”.

    loosely wrapped headscarf. I quite enjoyed not having to brush my hair every day
    wearing loosely wrapped headscarf. I quite enjoyed not having to brush my hair every day

     

    Note: If you look at the Iranian women in cities, you’ll see plenty wearing their scarves as far back as possible, showing off a big part of their hair. By doing so, the majority of them are making a political statement and have taken on the risk of being “scolded” by the morality police (yes, the morality police is real in Iran). Though visitors are not nearly as harshly judged as local women, I’d advise you to comply to the rules and let your hijab cover most of your hair. That being said, it’s totally fine to have a few locks peeking from your headscarf.

     

    MANTEAU

    A manteau is a light overcoat which covers your clothing. Manteaus come in a wide variety of shapes and colours but serve the same purpose: hiding your curves. You could buy your manteau in Iran however your everyday coat from home should be could enough. Think ‘trench coat’, ‘parka’ or ‘cloak’. You can also get away with a lengthy oversized sweater. As long as it’s not figure hugging and has a minimal length of just below your ‘derrière’. It feels quite awkward to keep on your jacket while sitting at an indoor restaurant table but you get used to it. Sort of.

    MANTEAU Iran
    my old trusty parka as a manteau
    not so scary
    baggy pants and oversized lengthy sweater revealing zero curves

     

    Underneath your manteau, you can wear whatever you want since the manteau stays on in public. 

    Just make sure that:

    – You cover your legs down to the ankle. A loose fitting maxi dress or skirt should do the trick.

    – You cover your neckline, arms and body.

    what to wear in Iran. How to dress in Iran
    Maxi skirt with a knee length cardigan on top.

     

    Tight jeans seem to be accepted and widely worn. Cover up those thighs though!

     

    SHOES AND ACCESSORIES

    Open-toed sandals are tolerated though you might feel a little “naked” wearing them. A more comfortable choice would be a flat shoe – a ballerina or a sneaker. Consider a pair of solid flat boots during the colder seasons.

    Because I had no other boots in my collection and refused to purchase a new pair solely for this trip -meet a woman who owns just 3 pairs of shoes-  I ended up wearing heeled boots on cold days. I definitely stood out in them which made me feel uncomfortable. One guy even told me this was the snobby style for rich girls in the city. I couldn’t in the slightest relate to that. So maybe leave your heels at home.

    In terms of accessories, wear what you usually would during any other trip. What works best for me is to keep it minimal and add some local bling along the way.

    what to wear in Iran
    rich girl heels and a backpack with Persian design, gifted by a local friend

     

     

    CHADOR

    A chador is a large piece of fabric that covers your entire body head to toe. Whilst it is the dress of choice of some Iranian women, you are not required to wear a chador except when visiting certain mosques at certain times. You will be loaned a chador when necessary. Don’t worry if you’re unsure of how to wear it, the women will guide you.

    CHADOR
    I was handed this bedsheet look-a-like chador at the entrance of the mosque. Most women wear a more upscale, black chador.

     

    MAKE-UP

    You will see Iranian women made up beautifully. Make-up is an important part of their style, primarily in big cities. You could join in on the trend and show up at a fast food joint with an extreme cat eye (because there is -at least officially- no party scene in Iran so where else would you show off your face art?) I recommend leaving the heavy make up and flashy lipstick to the local girls who have limited opportunities to publicly “strut their stuff”. Besides, too much make- up can be reason enough to be stopped by the morality police.

     

    It’s actually quite simple to dress correctly in Iran as a traveller. Wear your regular, somewhat conservative every day clothes topped off with a midi jacket. Cover your hair, double check the mirror that you’re figure is concealed et voilà, you’re ready to step outside. Iranian women are generally incredibly well dressed and pull off sophisticated, stylish looks, which you probably won’t be able to mirror, wearing your traveler’s garment. And that’s ok.

    However, if you’d like to make an attempt to do so, check out these gorgeous bloggers for inspiration. Note that they are not Persian but many of their outfits would be appropriate to wear in Iran.

    Ruba Zai on Instagram
    Ruba Zai, on Instagram @hijabhills
    Summer Albarcha, on Instagram @summeralbarcha
    Summer Albarcha, on Instagram @summeralbarcha
    Maryam of sincerelymaryam on Instagram
    Maryam of sincerelymaryam, on Instagram @sincerelymaryam

     

    Have you ever scratched your head while packing, not knowing exactly which clothes bring? What destination(s) were you packing for?

     

    The post “What to wear in Iran” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Where to Travel in Iran – our two week itinerary

    Where to Travel in Iran – our two week itinerary

    The moment we entered Iran, we immediately knew: two weeks is way too little time to visit this vast, fascinating country! Unfortunately we can’t always take month-long vacations, so we figured: two weeks is better than nothing! Although it meant we’d have to make some tough decisions regarding the places we’d visit. Considering we were traveling in autumn, the southern loop seemed like the obvious choice. It also happens to be where the country’s highlights are situated.

    This is where we spent our 2 weeks in Persia…

     

    TEHRAN – 1 Day

    The first thing we did the morning we landed in Teheran was to book a domestic flight South. We aimed to get out of the capital as soon as possible. Now I’m not saying there is nothing interesting to see or do in Tehran but we figured there’d be more intriguing places to visit. Besides, we arrived during Ashura, Iran’s most important religious holiday which meant that the entire city was practically deserted. We managed to reserve seats on a flight that evening, leaving us with a full day to fill in Tehran. Since everything was closed, we spent the day drinking tea and mindlessly strolling down the quiet empty streets of an otherwise buzzing city.

    prayers during Ashura
    prayers during Ashura

     

    SHIRAZ – 2 Days

    Just a short flight later, we arrived in Shiraz also known as the heart of Persian culture. “Shiraz”, that name… I imagined refined art, sophisticated poetry, elegant gardens, nightingales, romance and red wine. And that’s exactly what it was, well except for the wine since alcohol is illegal in Iran nowadays. Once again, due to the festivities of Ashura, we were limited in options of things to do. We mostly wandered around town, visited some iconic mosques, browsed the colourful bazar and shared some incredible meals with newfound local friends. We may have missed some of the city’s highlights but we experienced and learned about the fascinating religious holiday of Ashura, which I won’t go into further detail right now. It would need so much explaining it would have to be a post on its own.

    ornate mosques in abundance
    ornate mosques in abundance
    with surprising interriors
    with surprising interior design
    discovering the sweet stuff in the bazar
    discovering the sweet stuff in the bazar
    almost ripe oranges in the mosque's court garden
    almost ripe oranges in the mosque’s court garden
    the leaning tower of Shiraz
    the leaning tower of Shiraz
    tea anyone
    at one of our many tea breaks

     

    PERSEPOLIS – NAQSH E ROSTAM & NAQSH E RAJAB – 1 Day

    As a day trip from Shiraz, we chartered a taxi to another “mystical sounding” spot: Persepolis. I regret thinking we’d learn all there is to know about Persepolis from our guidebook and stories online. Reading about the ancient site is a good start but having a live guide enthusiastically telling stories, pointing out important details and explaining the symbolism on site, would have added value… Nonetheless, guide or no, walking amongst the ruins will spark your imagination.

    the entrance of Persepolis
    the entrance of Persepolis
    ruins that help you imagine what once was a grand majestic city.
    ruins that help you imagine what once was a grand majestic city.

    After visiting Persepolis, we drove to Naqsh-e-Rostam & Naqsh-e-Rajab for a quick view of the majestic rock tombs. Impressive! Most taxi drivers or tours will advise you to add “Pasargadae” to your day trip. However, we skipped it and I must say, looking at fellow travellers’ pictures, we made the right decision. Though I’ve only heard good reviews from visitors of Pasargadae, whether you should go or not really depends on your interests and on how many ruins you can handle in one day.

    rock tombs
    rock tombs Naqsh e Rajab

     

    YAZD – 2 Days

    From Shiraz we took a nightbus to Yazd, an enchanting mud-brick desert city. My favourite city in Iran- I think. What made me love Yazd so much was the fact that it is so astonishingly different from any other city I had ever seen. Serene, quiet and entirely made of mud buldings… Come on! According to UNESCO, Yazd’s old town is the oldest city on earth. Can you imagine that?! Standing on the city’s rooftops, you get fairytale-like views over the brown city. Getting lost in Yazd felt truly magical.

    exploring the streets of Yazd
    exploring the streets of Yazd
    sunset view from one of the many rooftops
    sunset view from one of the many rooftops
    teas time with Yazd's delicious signature sweets
    tea time accompanied by Yazd’s signature sweets

     

    KHARANAQ- MEYBOD – CHAK CHAK – 1 Day

    In Yazd we met a driver with whom we arranged a day trip to the surrounding sites. Out of the three stops, despite the beautiful surroundings, we found the pilgrimage site of Chak Chak to be the least interesting to us visitors.

    Chak Chak, Zoroastrian pilgrimage site
    Chak Chak, Zoroastrian pilgrimage site

    The 1800-year-old mud castle of Meybod (Narin Castle) was much more to our liking. I’m still puzzled about how a mud castle can be in such good shape after almost 2000 years of existence, surviving invasions, wars, modern changes… WOW!

    Following a tasty lunch in a historic caravanserai -where strangely enough we were the only people- we headed to the mud-brick village of Kharanaq. This was by far the highlight of our day. Though I’m sure it’s not for everyone, we just loved “Indiana Jones-ing” in the crumbling, virtually deserted village.

    lunch in a caravanserai
    lunch in a caravanserai
    Karanaq
    Karanaq
    rooftops that made us fee like we had landed on another planet
    rooftops that made us feel like we had landed on another planet
    pommegrantes around the village
    pomegranates surrounding Kharanaq

     

    GARMEH – 2 Days

    Getting from Yazd to Garmeh was somewhat challenging but we made it! I’ve already raved about our stay in the desert oasis of Garmeh, it’s still easily one of my best travel experiences so far!

    palm tress in the desert
    palm trees in the desert
    Garmeh, desert oasis of my dreams
    Garmeh, desert oasis of my dreams

     

    MESR – 2 Days

    Because Garmeh was such a big hit, we extended our stay in the desert and headed to another, even more remote desert settlement: Mesr. We drove out with the new friends we’d made in Garmeh and had another remarkable stay in the desert! This time around there was dune bashing at sunset, stargazing, chasing renegade camels and desert sand hikes. Iv’e said it before and I’ll say it again: I love the desert!

    sand dunes as far as the eye can see
    sand dunes as far as the eye can see
    our guesthouse in the middle of nowhere
    our guesthouse in the middle of nowhere

     

    ESFAHAN – 2 Days

    The grandeur of Esfahan left us standing in awe. This is where you’ll find Iran’s most impressive, majestic architecture. You’ll be surrounded by sharply dressed youths having a good time out, families spending time together in parks and lovers dating somewhat publicly… Esfahan is a modern and vibrant city standing in strong contrast with more conservative places like Yazd.

    ES
    Esfahan
    Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan, Iran architecture
    Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan
    family day on the river banks
    family day on the river banks

     

    ABYANEH – 1 Day

    Since we couldn’t find public transportation to the ancient village of Abyaneh, we hitchhiked there. Catching a ride was quite easy. Most people seem to visit Abyaneh as a day trip from Kashan but we figured we might as well spend the night. Apparently we were the only ones with that idea. Though this village is definitely not a “must-see”, we were thrilled to get a glimpse of a different Iran.

    I wouldn't count on a bus to take you there
    Irregular bus service to Abyaneh
    streets of Abbyna
    streets of Abyaneh
    We only found local elderly people in this village. All dressed in a particular style, different to what we saw throughout the rest of the country
    All the locals we encountered in Abyaneh were elderly people dressed in a particular style. They looked very different from the people we had seen throughout the rest of the country.

     

    KASHAN – 2 Days

    Kashan, another place I was enamoured with. Whether it was due to the -once again- exceptional rooftops, our charming guesthouse, the abundant rose water, the “secret” gardens, the grand traditional houses or the lively bazars, I don’t know. Kashan really got under my skin.

    just can't get enough of these rooftops!
    just can’t get enough of these rooftops!
    farmland hidden inside an old fortress in Kashan
    farmland hidden inside an old fortress in Kashan
    traditional house
    traditional house

     

    From Kashan it was a short ride to the end point of our trip: the international airport of Tehran. As you can see, we spent about two days in each destination. Because many of the attractions were closed due to the festivities of Ashura, this was just enough time not to feel rushed. We could have easily spent more time in each of the spots mentioned above and would have loved to visit other parts of the country. That’s why we promised ourselves there would be a next time! But in the end, the beauty of Iran lies, more than its sights or scenery, in its people. So any amount of time spent in the country is enough to at least get a taste of the Persian hospitality.

     

    Have you been to Iran? Would you consider going? 

    The post “Where to travel in Iran- our two week itinerary” first appeared on Travel Cake

     

  • An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences

    An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences

    It’s been quiet on Travel Cake these past few months. Some of you have been asking me where I’ve been and what I’ve been up to. Well, I can tell you this much: I haven’t been slacking!

    I’ve moved from Ecuador to Belgium where I have been slaving away at a 9 to 5 desk job. Being back in my hometown has been wonderful in terms of reconnecting with friends, family and the city. You may have read the mini luxury guide to Ghent I wrote for travel blog “Hippie in Heels”. You may also have read what I had to say about travel photography in an article for “Voyager for life“.

    waterfall mindo
    saying my goodbyes to Ecuador

     

    But most importantly, I’ve been preparing for the trip of a lifetime. A new adventure, greater than any I’ve ever been on before.

    Destination?

    Motherhood.

    That’s right,I said motherhood.

    The journey began 10 months ago in Iran and continued in Ecuador and Colombia. It took a turn in the US and passed by the Netherlands. It then continued to Belgium where our daughter was born. Our ‘Mini Travel Cake’ is a sweet and funny baby with a traveller’s spirit. How could it be any different, she is only a month old and has already been to 6 countries!

    front-for-print

    Does this mean Travel Cake is turning into a mommy blog?

    No. Plain and simple. It’s just not my cup of tea. However, I’ll probably publish an article related to kids and travel every once in a while. But in general I plan on publishing the same kind of content as I have so far.

    As my pregnancy came to an end, I was stuck indoors with a swollen face hiding from the summer heat. Knowing that my life will never be exactly the same again, I thought about my passed travels. Motherhood is probably the most intense and life changing adventure of them all and I’m THRILLED not to have rushed into it. Thrilled to have taken time to see and experience as much of the world as possible while being relatively carefree. That’s why, as a tribute to carefree travelling, I will be posting a countdown of my 100 most memorable, essential travel experiences.

    Here goes part 1, in no particular order:

     

    100. Driving miles and miles on the rooftops of Nepali busses. 

    the best spot on the bus is the roof!
    A drink, music blasting from your headphones and wind running through your hair… the best seats are in between the luggage on the roof of the bus!

     

    99.  1001 nights in Morocco

    trying to look the part sippin on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco's fancy riads.
    Morocco’s riads are so romantic, so sophisticated and worth the occational splurge. I tried  looking the part sippin’ on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco’s fancy riads. Click on the title to read about my weekend in Fez, Morocco.

     

    98. Floating through life on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala

    waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways
    Waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways, sigh…

     

    97. Going nuts during Thingyan, Myanmar’s water festival

    party at Black Culture
    Water party in a pop-up day club
    street scene
    This is a common street scene in Yangon during the water festival. Click on the title to read about our experiences during Thingyan.

     

    96. Trekking in the Himalayas

    our first and very ill prepared trek, 4300m altitude. click on the title to read a post related the experience
    Our first and very ill prepared trek at 4300m altitude. Click on the title to read a post related to trekking.

     

    95. Rum cocktails in Castro’s Cuba

    Cuba during Castro's reign was such a bizarre yet enchanting place for a visitor. Things may have changed now, but I'm sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!
    Cuba during Castro’s reign was such a bizarre yet unique and enchanting place. At least for visitors. Things may have changed but I’m sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!

     

    94. Hiking in Valbona, Albania

    after a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption.
    After a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption. Click on the title to read about my hike in the Albanian Alps.

     

    93. Spending the night in the garden of Eden in the Democratic Republic of Congo

    sunset in the garden of Eden
    Watching the sun set after a long walk in what seemed like the garden of Eden. DRC has fantastic nature, I wish I could say the same for the political situation.

     

    92. Seeing Tarsiers in the wild

    tarsier back in his sleeping tree
    A childhood dream came true when we spotted these cuties in the jungle of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Click on the title to read more about our time in Sulawesi.

     

    91. Fishing, sunbathing and drinking on a catamaran in Los Roques, Venezuela

    Los-Roques
    My first time on a caribbean beach, I was overwhelmed by the high tropical factor

     

    90. Traveling by train in Russia

    RUSSIA
    I got to know my cabin mates by communicating with signs on a 40 hour train ride to the Russian Arctic

     

    89. Hiking the Cocora valley in Colombia

    COCORA
    Another long time travel dream come true! Click on the title to read about our hike in the Cocora Valley.

     

    88. Discovering the architectural jewels of Iran

    IRAN2
    Feeling tiny amongst Iranian architectural masterpieces

     

    87. Camping on a beach in Oman and finding nestling turtles

    click on the title to read about my road trip in Oman.
    Camping on a deserted beach in southern Oman.
    up close and personal with the sea turtles
    We stumbled upon some sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Click on the title to read about my road trip to Oman.

     

    86. Learning to scuba dive

    ready for discovery
    Wreck diving in the Philippines, a new world opening up…
    scuba diving in Zanzibar
    My first open water dive in Zanzibar, one of many more to come.

     

    85. Trying to understand the Israeli-Palestinan conflict

    quiet streets of the old city
    The more I talked to local people on both sides of the conflict, the more confused I was on the issues. No matter how much I hung out in the old streets of Jerusalem. Read more about my trip to Israel.
    on my way to Palestine
    Crossing the horrendous border to Palestine. Click on the title to read more about my findings in Palestine.

     

    84. Motorcycling through India

    South to North India by Royal enfield
    An epic drive from South to North India on a 30 year old Royal Enfield. Click on the titel to read about out motorcycle trip through India.

     

    83. Unexpectedly ending up in Paris and attending a crazy party in “la Machine du Moulin Rouge” 

     the evening took an expected turn and I found myself in Paris. Wearing pink fur and a white wig...
    The evening took an unexpected turn and I found myself in Paris. Wearing pink fur and a white wig…

     

    82. Travelling solo 

    traveling solo through Turkey. Click on the title to read why I travel solo even when I'm in a relationship.
    I find traveling solo extremely liberating and enriching. Everybody should try it at least once in their life! Click on the title to read why I travel solo even when I’m in a relationship.

     

    81. Trying to catch a glimpse of Nessie in Loch Ness in the Scottish highlands

    in the Scottish Highlands
    Nessie not found.

     

    So much for part 1 of my favourite travel experiences. Continue reading part 2part 3part4part 5 and part 6!

    Which of these experiences would you want to read more about? 

    The post “An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • What’s in… Iran?

    What’s in… Iran?

    Almost every time I excitedly announced I was headed to Iran, the most puzzled looks thrown my way. Reactions ranging from “Are you nuts?! You’re gonna get yourself killed!” to a calmer “Iran? What’s in Iran?”. No one ever asks you that when you say you’re going to Thailand or France… It seems like “war, nuclear bombs, danger, terror and veiled women” are what spring to most people’s mind when they think of Iran.

    Since so little people know about Iran as a tourist destination, I’ve decided to help chase this incorrect image of Iran out of the world. The way popular media is portraying the country at the moment, is far from the reality I have seen and experienced. It’s time to bust the misconception.

    not so scary
    not so scary

     

    So what’s in Iran worth travelling for?

     

    Divine architecture

    No matter which city or town you go to, you’ll surely find yourself facing a building in total awe at some point. Palaces, mosques, mansions… They’ll draw your attention with their ornate facades and colourful domes. This was the original reason why I wanted to travel to Iran even though I’m not particularly an architecture buff.

    Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan, Iran architecture
    Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan
    Iran architecture
    just a few examples of Iran’s divine architecture (click to enlarge)

     

    Tea and delicious treats

    We stopped for tea breaks at least twice a day, every day. Alcohol is not officially available so instead of having a beer or a glass of wine on a terrace, in Iran you’ll sip on tea -usually served in beautiful cups and accompanied by an assortment of sweets typical of the region. A simple tea break then turns into such a treat, especially if held in one of the many pretty tea gardens or courtyards.

    tea with saffron sugar
    tea with saffron sugar
    in a tea garden with fresh dates on the side
    in a tea garden with fresh dates on the side
    tea with reginonal sweets
    tea with regional sweets

     

    Warm and welcoming people

    I was recently asked where I found the friendliest people during my travels. It’s a hard question to answer as I’ve encountered so many friendly nations but I must say, Iran is definitely in my top 3. Not only were the people genuinely friendly and interested in the visitor, they’d invite us to have dinner at their house, they’d talk to us on the street- just to say welcome, they’d pay for our bus rides- just because. No hidden agenda, just out of hospitality. Iranians did everything in their power to make us feel at home in their country. Seldom have I seen a nation as giving and as enthusiastic about welcoming visitors. For meeting the people alone, Iran is worth a trip; you wouldn’t even need to visit anything.

    women working Iran, farming
    women taking time off work to welcome us to their country
    so much love...
    so much love…

     

    Cool rooftops

    One of my favourite things to do in Iran was to climb up to the roof of a building. Unlike any of the roofs I have seen before, I often imagined I had landed on another planet. The interesting part is that the unusual constructions on the roofs all have a well thought purpose for you to find out. The rooftops are ideal places to watch the sun set over the city.

    rooftop Iran
    rooftop, free tourist attraction… (click to enlarge)

     

    Lively bazars where you can shop in peace

    I’m a big fan of browsing bazars and I generally accept the hassle that often comes with it. Every town in Iran boasts at least one bazar featuring some top notch goods. The best part however, is that they are pretty much hassle free! You can browse the stands in peace without feeling pressure from the salesman to buy every item you glance at. The shopkeeper will take his time to explain things if you ask, to show you other options if you’re interested and to give you a taste if you seem puzzled. All the while giving you a genuine smiling nod if you walk away. This is bazar shopping at its best!

    shopping Iran
    bazar shopping (click to enlarge)

     

    A great variety of landscapes

    You can’t put Iran in a box when it comes to landscapes: snowy mountains (where you can ski in winter!), flower clad hills, arid desert plains, moon landscapes, palm fringed islands, woodlands… You’ll find it all within the borders of the country. If you enjoy the outdoors, you’ll probably have a tough time deciding where to go.

    Iran desert
    sanddunes
    woodlands and waterfalls (source)
    woodlands and waterfalls, yes this too is Iran!  (source)
    Iran salt lake
    dried up salt lake

     

    UNESCO heritage sites

    There are 17 UNESCO heritage site in Iran at the moment and you’ll probably have an opinion on which sites should be added to the list once you start visiting the country. I’m not a UNESCO site hunter but the list is usually a great indicator of how impressive/valuable a site is. The most renowned one must be Persepolis, the name alone would  have you dreaming. Walking through it and listening to the tales of ancient Persia only continues to bring your imagination in overdrive.

    gates of Persepolis
    gates of Persepolis
    Persepolis
    Persepolis

     

    An exciting food adventure

    The Persian cuisine is unlike any of the cuisines I have tasted so far. The ingredients are relatively standard but the way they are put together results in flavours that were entirely new to my tastebuds. I tried finding significant similarities with other cuisines but failed to do so. If you’re not too lazy to look beyond the widely available fast food (pizza, hamburger, kebab and Turkish dürüm) there is a huge array of local dishes that will take you through an exciting food adventure.

    Persian food, Iran
    a culinary discovery with every meal (click to enlarge)

     

    3000+ year old mud castles to explore

    Yes, that’s 3000, no typo here. That’s how old some of the Persian mud castles are. Some are still in a good enough state for you to enter, wander around and get lost. No guards, no ropes, Indiana Jones style minus the booby traps. You’ll probably be the only one there which make the experience even more fascinating.

    one of the many mud castles we played in
    one of the many mud castles we played in
    still in good state
    still in good state

     

    A refined and interesting culture

    Persian culture is very elegant and refined. Poetry, fine music, great literature… It has a very distinct identity which, contrary to what many people believe, is nothing like the Arab or Ottoman culture. As a regular tourist, you’ll just be scrapping of the surface, but it’s enough to get a taste or to get hooked and start digging deeper.

     

    The people of Iran are very aware of the bad reputation their country is receiving abroad and they try everything they can to show travellers that Iran is not a bloodthirsty, dangerous nation full of criminals or terrorists. We were often asked what people back home thought of Iran. Unfortunately we had to confirm their fear and admit most people didn’t have a great image of the country. They asked us to tell our story, to tell people the truth about Iran and its people since they can’t. I hope this post convinces even just one person, that Iran is a beautiful, interesting and safe place to travel to.

    Would you give Iran a chance? 

    The post “What’s in… Iran?” first appeared on Travel Cake

     

  • Desert Oasis of your Dreams: Garmeh, Iran

    Desert Oasis of your Dreams: Garmeh, Iran

    For as long as I can remember, I’ve always dreamt of going to a “real” oasis in the desert. You know, like the ones you seen in movies or cartoons: a palm tree clad village with an abundance of water and crops, smack in the middle of sand plains and dust. A place where you could sit by a well in the shadow of a tree in total silence and watch the occasional heard of sheep pass by.

    That’s exactly what Garmeh is like. Somewhere in Iran’s central desert, Dashte- kavir, lies this tiny village irrigated by a small mountain spring. Garmeh has been welcoming and accommodating travellers for hundreds of years as it was one of the pitstops on the famous silk road.

    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran
    the oasis of Garmeh- click to enlarge

     

    Getting there and away was far from easy. It entailed several vehicles switches, each time leaving us on the side of a dusty road. Thanks to our non-existent Persian language skills, we only had our hands and smiles to ask for direction and communicate with people on the way. But Iranians, friendly and helpful as they are, always found a way to make us feel at ease and see us through to the next leg of our journey.

    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran
    on the road…

     

    We stayed in Ateshooni, a family run guesthouse right in the middle of Garmeh.

    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran
    one of the most unique looking guesthouses I’ve ever stayed in
    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran
    pet’s at Ateshooni

     

    Our days were filled with walks, relaxation and interesting conversations with other travelleres- half of which were young Iranians.

    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran
    walking around the village
    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran
    reading, discussing, laughing with travellers in the guesthouse’s living room
    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran
    in the village

     

    Our nights were spent entranced by Maziar Ale Davoud’s live music, artist and owner of the guest house. Followed by stargazing and eye-opening conversations whilst sipping tea in miniature cups and nibbling on fresh dates.

    We were spoilt with incredible meals three times a day.

    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran, iranian food
    getting acquainted with the unique flavours of Persian cuisine

     

    It was so idyllic we ended up booking an extra night- which would have turned into a week were our days in Iran not restricted by a tourist visa.

    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran
    couldn’t resist spending another day in this little paradise

     

    After a few days in Garmeh, I was not ready to kiss the desert sands goodbye. So we extended our trip by spending the night in another settlement in the desert; “Mesr” near Farahzad. We stayed in ‘Barandaz lodge’, another family run guesthouse with an attached farm. Though the oasis was not as picture perfect as in Garmeh, what we got here was another classic desert scene; enormous sand dunes. Perfect for dune bashing at sunset.

    Farahzad
    romance at its best
    Farahzad, sand dunes, Iran
    our play ground just after sunset
    desert Iran
    warming up our feet after running around barefooted in the dunes
    Garmeh, desert oasis, Iran
    camel burgers for dinner

     

    The mornings were just as magical. As the sun rose, you could feel the entire farm and its surrounding rising too. Cows and sheep enjoying(?) their morning milking sessions, camels being taken out for their morning walk, the sun slowly heating up the yellow sand and tea getting to a boil on an open fire.

    chasing the rebellious camel that got away from the pack
    chasing the rebellious camel that got away from the pack

     

    While this all was going on, there was silence. That strange kind of silence where you do hear things are going on, but their sound disappear in the greater silence. The loudest noise around are your thoughts. Eventually those too quiet down until they are completely mute.

     

    “I think I’m in love with the desert”, I confessed to Douglas. He shot me a jealous look and we never spoke of it again.

    Farahzad, Iran
    photo by Douglas Deleu

     

    We left Dashte-Kavir too soon, but then again, same thing goes for pretty much every destination we visited in Iran.

    How do you feel about the desert? Is it an environment you like?

     

     The post “Desert Oasis of your Dreams: Garmeh, Iran” first appeared on Travel Cake.