Category: Latin America

  • In Search of Authenticity at Otavalo Market, Ecuador

    In Search of Authenticity at Otavalo Market, Ecuador

    A visit to the indigenous market of Otavalo in Ecuador is probably one of the most advertised activities in Quito’s guest houses and travel agencies. It’s said to be one of the largest and oldest indigenous market of South America and every single guide book will tell you it’s a must-do if you’re visiting the Quito area. That’s exactly the reason why I wasn’t sure if I’d want to go. (more…)

  • 2015 Travel Summary

    2015 Travel Summary

    Here we are again, at the beginning of a new year, wondering where time went. Looking back at the past twelve months, thinking how we could have done things better, what is still missing in our lives and wondering where the next 52 weeks will take us. For me, the past year was one full of challenges, enormous changes and tremendous mental growth.

    Though 2015 wasn’t as much of a travel whirlwind as 2013 or 2014, it was an intense travel year to say the least. I moved to Latin America, making it the 5th continent I’ve lived in. I finally revisited the USA and Colombia. Then I moved again, this time back to Ghent, my favourite city on earth. I did it all while growing a tiny human. Kind of absurd, now that I think of it.

    This was travel in 2015, the year of big changes…

     

    ECUADOR

    Quito

    I started the year in Quito with the mission to check out whether or not Ecuador was the country where we’d settle in next. Though Quito lacks impressive tourist attractions, I grew very fond of it. I’m not really sure why, but living in Quito turned out to be quite enjoyable.

    QUITO2
    photo shoot in the historic centre of Quito
    one of the most impressive architectures of Quito
    one of the most impressive architectures of Quito: la catherdral.

     

    Baños

    The capital of adventure sports in Ecuador. Charming in a touristy way… I wasn’t able to partake in any of the adventure sports due to the pregnancy so I experienced the town differently than I normally would. I’d ask myself: “would the average 75-year-old engage in this activity?” If the answer was positive, that meant a “GO” for me. Good thing that -in my mind- the average 75-year-old would have no problem mountain biking down a narrow wining road alongside massive speeding trucks… *ahum*

    devil's cauldron, baños, ecuador
    Devil’s cauldron reached by mountain bike in Baños
    BANOS
    approved activity

     

    Cuenca

    If it wasn’t for a small incident that changed our entire professional plans, I would probably be writing this post from our house in Cuenca. We found the city to be very pleasant and full of business potential. I was willing to oversee the ever fluctuating weather and settle down in the cobble stone city. But as I said, some issues came up which helped us realise Cuenca was not the place for us to live in. At least not in that moment in time.

    colonial architecture in Cuenca
    colonial architecture in Cuenca
    parade, cuenca Ecuador...
    every weekend in Ecuador, there seems to be a parade of some sort…

     

    Vilcabamba

    Apparently many people live to be 100 years and longer in this small town nestled in what is nicknamed “the valley of longevity”… There seems to be something about the source water and the fresh air that contributes to a long and healthy life. Now this was a gorgeous piece of paradise! Rolling hills, flowers, fruits, birds and butterflies in abundance. A handful of Westerners have set up shop in this town and opened a few yoga and meditation centres, juice bars and organic restaurants. It’s also the place to be for ayahuasca cleansing ceremonies. We were keen to settle down in Vilcabamba but unfortunately the remoteness of the town also meant the internet wasn’t as reliable as it should be for digital nomads. So we were left with no other choice than to leave the little paradise.

    VILCABAMBA french guest house, ecuador
    our guesthouse in the valley of longevity

     

    Montañita

    Or ‘party central’. Cheap cocktails, good surf, tasty street food, loud pounding beats and killer sunsets. I could imagine myself twisting my hair into dreadlocks in front of a reggae shack, ambling barefooted through the sandy streets and partying till sunrise… 10 years ago! That would have pretty much summed up my dream life. Today, I actually had to retain myself not to complain about the loud (party) noise just outside my window at night! Yikes, it’s official, I’m no longer in my 20’s… Montañita helped me realise just how much I’ve grown/changed. And though I did enjoy some elements of it, places like Montañita are just not my scene anymore.

    street breakfast, montañita
    street breakfast
    street art, montañita
    the way a surf beach town should be; quirky and colourful
    sunset in Montañita
    sunset in Montañita

     

    Puerto Cayo

    A tiny dot on the map. We spent most of our time in Ecuador living and working in this sleepy fishing village. When I say sleepy, I mean really sleepy. An interesting experience, one I would never have guessed I’d be living. If you’ve missed it, read about our life in Puerto Cayo.

    puerto cayo, ecuador
    sleepy Puerto Cayo

     

    Mindo

    My favourite spot in Ecuador. We spent most of our time there eating delicious food, admiring colourful hummingbirds, enjoying the lush greenery and gorgeous waterfalls. Catch up on our time in Mindo lindo.

    waterfall, Mindo, Ecuador
    Greener than green in Mindo

     

    Otavalo and surrounding villages

    What I like most about Ecuador is its authenticity, especially in the smaller towns and villages. The people, the culture, the widely worn traditional dress; all incredibly different from what I know. The scenery throughout the country is simply stunning and so exceptionally diverse. Otavalo features one of Ecuador’s largest indigenous markets and since it was our last stop before heading home, I did some serious “no restraints”-shopping.

    the colours in Ecuador are incredibly vibrant
    the colours in Ecuador are most vibrant
    crater lake, ecuador
    crater lakes in abundance
    streetfood, Otavalo, ecuador
    getting some local grub in Otavalo

     

    COLOMBIA

    Bogotá

    A Drupal conference in Colombia lured us into the country. I had been to the Colombian capital before and just like the first time, I wasn’t crazy about Bogotá. La Candelaria, the old part of town, definitely has some charm but the rest of the city is not my cup of tea. To me the best part of being in Bogotá was the reunion with my local friends after 10 years apart. I also loved discovering some of  Bogota’s quirks.

    bogota, colombia, old town square
    in the old centre
    admiring the works one of my favourite artists, F. Botero
    admiring the works one of my favourite artists, Botero

     

    Medellín and surroundings

    Such a cool and vibrant city! It’s hard to believe what a hot mess it was just 25 years ago. Medellín has really cleaned up well, turning the worst parts of the city into the best! The fantastic free walking tour by “Real City Tours” helped us understand the city and its history. We spent a few weeks in Medellín working, living and discovering the different neighbourhoods. After a hard week at work, we’d visit some of the surrounding villages and attractions.

    Botero sculpture in front of Uribe palace of culture in downtown Medellin, designed by a Flemish architect
    Botero sculpture in front of the ‘Uribe palace of culture’ in downtown Medellin, the latter designed by a Flemish architect
    in Guatape, daytrip from Medellin
    in Guatape, daytrip from Medellin

     

    Salento

    A travel dream came true the moment we boarded the bus to Salento. The town itself was quaint but it was the Cocora valley that had been peaking on my travel wish list for a while. The hike was everything I expected it to be and more. I had accidentally left my camera’s charger in Ecuador so I could only take a few pictures. Though I was bummed, this major screw up allowed me to really be in the now and take it all in.

    COCOra valley, hiking, colombia
    hiking in the marvellous Cocora valley
    cocora valley, hiking, colombia
    couldn’t get enough of these views

     

    USA

    Atlanta

    Though this was just a short jaunt on the way to our next destination, I was delighted to be back in the States after 11 years! I hit up some of my favourite American stores, drank sweet tea and had some doughnuts and fried chicken. I know this sounds incredibly cliché -and it is- but it’s what I was craving every time I thought of the USA. Unfortunately I didn’t have enough time to dig deeper and discover the ins and outs of Atlanta. Maybe next time?

     

    BELGIUM

    Ghent

    We came back to Belgium to be close to family and friends when the baby would make her appearance. I was waggling to my not so exciting desk job every day and getting ready for her arrival every spare minute I had. So nothing exotic here. Yet I was psyched to be living in Ghent again. I had a blast spending time with said family and friends as well as reconnecting with the city. As I’ve mentioned before in my “announcement post” I’ve often found myself comparing the journey to and through parenthood to a crazy travel adventure. That’s definitely what it has felt like… The craziest adventure so far.

    Ghent by night
    Ghent by night
    reunited with friends
    reunited with friends. Picture by Sofie Luyten

     

    NETHERLANDS

    Friesland

    If someone had told me a few years ago that I would be going to Friesland at least once every year, I would have never believed it. But that’s exactly what has happened over the past two years and will most likely continue to do so in the future. This visit however, wasn’t so much of a touristy one. We drove all the way to northern Holland to witness the wedding of our great Frisian friends. A long drive worth taking!

    cosy winter wedding in the Frisian countryside
    cosy winter wedding in the Frisian countryside. Congrats to our dear friends!

     

    So you see, 2015 wasn’t the year of endless destinations but it was full of movement!

    So what’s in store for 2016? Well, that’s the favourite part of my life: I don’t know yet! Things will inevitably be different now that there is a kid in the picture but pretty much everything still seems possible. I may not know exactly what 2016 will bring but I can already tell you this much;

    There is another big move coming up!

     

    When and where? Find out soon through Travel Cake’s Facebook Page or Instagram!

    How was your travel year? Happy about the places you visited?

    The post “2015 Travel Summary” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • What it’s like to live in Puerto Cayo, Ecuador

    What it’s like to live in Puerto Cayo, Ecuador

    You’ve probably never heard of Puerto Cayo.

    Don’t feel bad, most people haven’t. Puerto Cayo is a sleepy fishing village on the Pacific coast that doesn’t have much more to offer than long stretches of sandy beach spotted with seashells and colourful pebbles. Yet, it’s where we chose to settle down for the largest chunk of our 4 month stay in Ecuador earlier this year. We loved our calm beach life and even though there was absolutely nothing going on, we were sad to leave. . Living in Puerto Cayo was a unique experience. It was life at it’s simplest.

     

    So what is it like to live in an Ecuadorian beach village as a digital nomad?

    As usual, we rented in a furnished house – Pasatiempo del Sur. This time, it was a beautiful apartment by the beach with a pool, a garden and a killer view over the sun setting in the ocean.

    our beautiful appartment/house on the bottom floor with pool and garden
    on the bottom floor, our beautiful apartment/house with shared pool, garden and pets

     

    A typical day would look like this:

    WAKE UP SLOW – coffee and breakfast on the terrace

    What I love and miss most about living in the tropics, is how early the days start. Your biorhythm adjusts to the sun, which rises and sets at approximately the same hour every day. There was no need for an alarm, we’d just wake up naturally around 7AM every morning as the sun brightened the sky. I would get out of bed with enough energy to make a fruit salad for breakfast to accompany our morning coffee/tea.

     

    WORK-WORK-WORK

    As the mornings are the coolest time of the day in Ecuador, we’d try to get as much work done as possible before temperatures would rise to their maximums.

    Douglas at work
    Douglas ‘slaving away’ in the morning.

     

     LUNCH BREAK + SIESTA

    By 11 AM the sun would burn so intensely, it was impossible to get anything done. The entire village would be deserted. Not just for lunch breaks but to escape the heat of the equatorial sun. We’d have a simple lunch at home or take a motor taxi to one of the many restaurants -if I can call them that- on the beach. But truthfully only a mad dog would be out and about around noon.

    Puerto-Cayo

     

    After lunch comes… siesta time! We would not actually sleep (although that happened a few times) but unwind, digest and escape the burning heat outside.

    reading in the hammock
    reading in the hammock

     

    BACK TO WORK + BEACH BREAK

    By 3PM, it’s still steaming hot outside but more tolerable already. We’d stay inside and get some more work done. Once it started to cool down around 4 or 5 PM, we’d take a break to go for a splash in the ocean. How could you not, when you have a beach all to yourself?! We’d paddle in the waves and swim for about half an hour before returning to our work day.

    BEACHTIME
    Splashing around, jumping and screaming like kids. As far as the eye can see, not a soul in sight

     

    After our swim, we would work outside; Douglas on his laptop and I cleaning the pool, watering the plants or doing some housework.

    crab in swimming pool
    while cleaning the pool I would find these crabs, drifted off from the ocean

     

    APERO WHILE WATCHING THE SUNSET

    We’d end our work day by pouring ourselves an “apero” (a drink before dinner) at sunset. Time to sit back and relax. The fact that there was nothing else to do, helped us appreciate nature’s spectacle. Whether we’d be home or in one of the fish shacks on the beach, we never missed the show!

    SUNSET
    The sunset in Puerto Cayo was different every evening. I was amazed at how beautiful and -in a way- exciting life can be without entertainment, bars, friends… Just peace and quiet

     

    DINNER

    Sometimes we’d cook our own dinner, other times we would go to one of the few restaurants in town. Options on their menus were limited to fish, fish, seafood or fish. Meat is a scarce commodity in Puerto Cayo.

    Fish, fish and fish. The shacks on the beach during the day
    The food shacks on the beach during the day offering fish, fish or fish

     

    During the weekends we would laze around the pool, take long strolls on the beach, play with the dogs, go out for brunch or visit a neighbouring town. We learned to be content with uneventful weekends and enjoyed the low-keyed weeks as they drifted by.

    fancy brunch in El Abrije on a sunday morning. Eggs benedict and bloody mary
    Fancy and delicious brunch in restaurant ‘El Alebrije’ on a sunday morning. Eggs Benedict and Bloody Mary.
    puerto cayo, DOGS
    Since our lifestyle doesn’t allow us to have pets, we were thrilled to have our landlord’s dogs running around the grounds. Temporary pets to play with!
    We learned all about the "no-alcohol-on-sundays" policy... On a sunday...
    We learned all about the “no-alcohol-on-sundays” policy… On a sunday…

     

    Living in Puerto Cayo was a perfect way to get lots of work done and to save some money, as there were no distractions. We took it easy and truly lived in the moment which was a marvellous experience. We laughed and played like unconstrained children. We created our own joy and excitement. We let go of our worries and returned home with renewed energy and a new sense of serenity. In a way, living in Puerto Cayo was like going on one of those “find yourself” retreats.  Another enrichment in our lives.

     

    Could you see yourself living in a tiny town where there is nothing to do? Do you think you could find happiness in a place like Puerto Cayo? 

    The post “what it’s like to live in Puerto Cayo, Ecuador” first appeared on Travel Cake

     

  • An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences

    An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences

    It’s been quiet on Travel Cake these past few months. Some of you have been asking me where I’ve been and what I’ve been up to. Well, I can tell you this much: I haven’t been slacking!

    I’ve moved from Ecuador to Belgium where I have been slaving away at a 9 to 5 desk job. Being back in my hometown has been wonderful in terms of reconnecting with friends, family and the city. You may have read the mini luxury guide to Ghent I wrote for travel blog “Hippie in Heels”. You may also have read what I had to say about travel photography in an article for “Voyager for life“.

    waterfall mindo
    saying my goodbyes to Ecuador

     

    But most importantly, I’ve been preparing for the trip of a lifetime. A new adventure, greater than any I’ve ever been on before.

    Destination?

    Motherhood.

    That’s right,I said motherhood.

    The journey began 10 months ago in Iran and continued in Ecuador and Colombia. It took a turn in the US and passed by the Netherlands. It then continued to Belgium where our daughter was born. Our ‘Mini Travel Cake’ is a sweet and funny baby with a traveller’s spirit. How could it be any different, she is only a month old and has already been to 6 countries!

    front-for-print

    Does this mean Travel Cake is turning into a mommy blog?

    No. Plain and simple. It’s just not my cup of tea. However, I’ll probably publish an article related to kids and travel every once in a while. But in general I plan on publishing the same kind of content as I have so far.

    As my pregnancy came to an end, I was stuck indoors with a swollen face hiding from the summer heat. Knowing that my life will never be exactly the same again, I thought about my passed travels. Motherhood is probably the most intense and life changing adventure of them all and I’m THRILLED not to have rushed into it. Thrilled to have taken time to see and experience as much of the world as possible while being relatively carefree. That’s why, as a tribute to carefree travelling, I will be posting a countdown of my 100 most memorable, essential travel experiences.

    Here goes part 1, in no particular order:

     

    100. Driving miles and miles on the rooftops of Nepali busses. 

    the best spot on the bus is the roof!
    A drink, music blasting from your headphones and wind running through your hair… the best seats are in between the luggage on the roof of the bus!

     

    99.  1001 nights in Morocco

    trying to look the part sippin on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco's fancy riads.
    Morocco’s riads are so romantic, so sophisticated and worth the occational splurge. I tried  looking the part sippin’ on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco’s fancy riads. Click on the title to read about my weekend in Fez, Morocco.

     

    98. Floating through life on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala

    waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways
    Waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways, sigh…

     

    97. Going nuts during Thingyan, Myanmar’s water festival

    party at Black Culture
    Water party in a pop-up day club
    street scene
    This is a common street scene in Yangon during the water festival. Click on the title to read about our experiences during Thingyan.

     

    96. Trekking in the Himalayas

    our first and very ill prepared trek, 4300m altitude. click on the title to read a post related the experience
    Our first and very ill prepared trek at 4300m altitude. Click on the title to read a post related to trekking.

     

    95. Rum cocktails in Castro’s Cuba

    Cuba during Castro's reign was such a bizarre yet enchanting place for a visitor. Things may have changed now, but I'm sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!
    Cuba during Castro’s reign was such a bizarre yet unique and enchanting place. At least for visitors. Things may have changed but I’m sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!

     

    94. Hiking in Valbona, Albania

    after a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption.
    After a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption. Click on the title to read about my hike in the Albanian Alps.

     

    93. Spending the night in the garden of Eden in the Democratic Republic of Congo

    sunset in the garden of Eden
    Watching the sun set after a long walk in what seemed like the garden of Eden. DRC has fantastic nature, I wish I could say the same for the political situation.

     

    92. Seeing Tarsiers in the wild

    tarsier back in his sleeping tree
    A childhood dream came true when we spotted these cuties in the jungle of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Click on the title to read more about our time in Sulawesi.

     

    91. Fishing, sunbathing and drinking on a catamaran in Los Roques, Venezuela

    Los-Roques
    My first time on a caribbean beach, I was overwhelmed by the high tropical factor

     

    90. Traveling by train in Russia

    RUSSIA
    I got to know my cabin mates by communicating with signs on a 40 hour train ride to the Russian Arctic

     

    89. Hiking the Cocora valley in Colombia

    COCORA
    Another long time travel dream come true! Click on the title to read about our hike in the Cocora Valley.

     

    88. Discovering the architectural jewels of Iran

    IRAN2
    Feeling tiny amongst Iranian architectural masterpieces

     

    87. Camping on a beach in Oman and finding nestling turtles

    click on the title to read about my road trip in Oman.
    Camping on a deserted beach in southern Oman.
    up close and personal with the sea turtles
    We stumbled upon some sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Click on the title to read about my road trip to Oman.

     

    86. Learning to scuba dive

    ready for discovery
    Wreck diving in the Philippines, a new world opening up…
    scuba diving in Zanzibar
    My first open water dive in Zanzibar, one of many more to come.

     

    85. Trying to understand the Israeli-Palestinan conflict

    quiet streets of the old city
    The more I talked to local people on both sides of the conflict, the more confused I was on the issues. No matter how much I hung out in the old streets of Jerusalem. Read more about my trip to Israel.
    on my way to Palestine
    Crossing the horrendous border to Palestine. Click on the title to read more about my findings in Palestine.

     

    84. Motorcycling through India

    South to North India by Royal enfield
    An epic drive from South to North India on a 30 year old Royal Enfield. Click on the titel to read about out motorcycle trip through India.

     

    83. Unexpectedly ending up in Paris and attending a crazy party in “la Machine du Moulin Rouge” 

     the evening took an expected turn and I found myself in Paris. Wearing pink fur and a white wig...
    The evening took an unexpected turn and I found myself in Paris. Wearing pink fur and a white wig…

     

    82. Travelling solo 

    traveling solo through Turkey. Click on the title to read why I travel solo even when I'm in a relationship.
    I find traveling solo extremely liberating and enriching. Everybody should try it at least once in their life! Click on the title to read why I travel solo even when I’m in a relationship.

     

    81. Trying to catch a glimpse of Nessie in Loch Ness in the Scottish highlands

    in the Scottish Highlands
    Nessie not found.

     

    So much for part 1 of my favourite travel experiences. Continue reading part 2part 3part4part 5 and part 6!

    Which of these experiences would you want to read more about? 

    The post “An Announcement: The Trip of a Lifetime – 100Essential Travel Experiences” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Mindo for the broke, Ecuador

    Mindo for the broke, Ecuador

    Tucked away in the cloud forest, on the slopes of the Ecuadorian Andes lies the sleepy town of Mindo: the perfect spot for a range of adrenaline sports. Whether it’s tubing, canyoning, mountain biking, canopy flying or hiking, you can do it all in Mindo.

    Because I was physically unable to partake in any of these activities, I had a far more mellow “Mindo experience” than most visitors. And yet, Mindo was my favourite place in Ecuador. There is something magical in the air in Mindo.

    lodge Mindo Ecuador
    our cabin in the cloud forest

     

    Since adventure sports were not an option for me, I created what I would call a “Mindo for the broke”-itinerary. Though we weren’t actually broke, I figured this is exactly how I would spend my time if I had run out of money: skipping all the pricier adrenaline activities. Despite that they’re relatively cheap in Ecuador, they’ll still eat away at your budget.

     

    My pseudo ‘Mindo for the broke’ itinerary mainly consisted of…

     

    Eating.

    Broke or not, a woman’s got to eat, right?! 

    The restaurants in Mindo serve excellent food! I had a meal in almost every restaurant and café in town -not very hard considering the small size of Mindo. Every single dish I tried blew my socks off. Admittedly, that might have something to do with the fact that we arrived in Mindo after having lived almost two months in a small isolated beach town with limited food options.

    Some of the most impressive dishes were the steak in coffee sauce in El Quetzal, and the Mindo burger slathered in chocolate barbecue sauce in Inti Killa. Incredible!

    german food, Mindo Ecuador
    German inspired plate of finger food in ‘the beehive’
    vegetarian burger, Mindo Ecuador
    delicious veggie burger. Not the best looking plate of food we’ve had but we attacked the best dishes with such haste, it was impossible to photograph them before eating.

     

    Coffee and cakes.

    This is where you can see this is a pseudo budget itinerary. Because let’s face it, coffee and sweets breaks aren’t really a necessity in life… (or are they?)

    But I figured, if I can’t have the adrenaline rush, why not indulge in a sugar and caffeine rush?! As it rains quite often in the cloud forest, what better way to wait for the rain to blow away with a warm drink and some carbs? El Quetzal served the best brownie I’ve ever eatenEVER! I would go back to Mindo just for that brownie!

    brownie, Mindo Ecuador
    on a quest to find Mindo’s best brownie. This wasn’t it. But that view though…
    carrot cake, Mindo Ecuador
    carrot cake and a latte while we wait for the rain to stop

     

    Joining a chocolate tour.

    From bean to chocolate bar to best brownie ever. After having eaten that amazing brownie, I noticed El Quetzal also offers 6$ chocolate tours. It sounds like a cheesy touristy thing to do -and in a way it was- but I was curious to find out all about the chocolate making process. So I caved and joined an elderly group of tourists on the tour.

    chocolate Mindo Ecuador
    raw, fermented cacao beans

     

    Hiking to the waterfalls.

    Just outside of town, there’s a series of alluring waterfalls surrounded by lush forest foliage. The hike was mild enough that we were able to really take in the crisp mountain air, chase butterflies and splash our faces with cool spring water. To get to the waterfall trails, we took a ride in a cable car soaring high above the canopy, side by side with the wild toucans. The ride could be considered an adrenaline inducing activity by an acrophobe but to everyone else, it can only be described as a pleasant and stunning short jaunt. The hike is free, the cable car ride costs just a few bucks.

    cloud forest, Mindo Ecuador
    the cable car to get to the waterfalls
    cloud forest, Mindo Ecuador
    an easy trail to follow
    cloud forest, Mindo Ecuador
    dense cloud forest
    waterfall, Mindo Ecuador
    chasing waterfalls in Mindo

     

    Hummingbird gazing.

    My favourite activity in Mindo was relaxing in the hummingbird garden. We paid a dollar or so to enter the garden and had a drink surrounded by hundreds of hungry hummingbirds. I can’t say I’ve ever experienced anything quite like this before. The buzzing sound of their wings flapping at incredible speed, left me tantalised. I could have easily sat there all day just marvelling at nature…

    To find the hummingbird garden, walk into any tourist office in town and tell them you want to see the birds. They’ll point you in the right direction.

    hummingbirds, Mindo Ecuador
    hungry hummingbirds

     

    And thus ended our 4 relaxing days in Mindo lindo. Full stomachs, no adrenaline, lungs filled with fresh air and a warm and fuzzy feeling when thinking about Magical Mindo.

     

    Are you into adventure sports? 

    The post “Mindo for the broke ” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Hiking the Cocora Valley in Colombia

    Hiking the Cocora Valley in Colombia

    I was never a big hiker until I undertook a multi-day trek in Nepal a few years ago. While I still can’t really claim to be a hardcore hiker, I do take time for hikes a lot more often now. The distances, the physical challenge and the long hours don’t scare me anymore… In fact, it’s now what I’m drawn to!

    Ten years ago, when I visited Colombia, I spent the little time I had in the country visiting my local friends instead of visiting the country. Though I never regretted that decision, I was bummed to have missed out on what seemed like one of Colombia’s highlights: the Cocora valley. “I’ll just have to come back one day” I said…

    And come back I did! Ten years later, I finally had the chance to visit the Cocora valley in Colombia! What was even better, this time around I was actually into hiking!

    This hike was not only a highlight in Colombia for me, it was one of my favourites of all times. Not too long, not too strenuous and full of gorgeous and unique views.

    We headed to the town of Salento, the hub for hikes in the valley. I found the town itself to be very touristy but extremely charming. We spent our first day in Salento wandering around, walking in and out of little boutiques, eating tasty dishes and drinking incredible coffee, straight from the source.

    Colombian coffee on the side of the road
    Colombian coffee on the side of the road
    taking multiple food breaks a day...
    taking multiple food breaks a day…

     

    The next day we woke up shortly after dawn to start our hike. From the town square, a bunch of jeeps were waiting to bring hikers to the valley. The ride to the valley in itself was absolutely stunning! I would have loved to walk there like some people did, but I figured walking those extra kilometres would be pushing it. Besides, a ride hanging from the back of a willy jeep seemed so much cooler!

    Cocora valley Colombia, Jeep
    the jeep to Cocora

     

    Because it had been raining the days before our arrival, we rented some rubber boots from a kiosk at the beginning of the trail. They turned out not to be necessary but I was happy I could walk freely, jump into mud pools and cross small creeks without a second thought.

    getting the most out of my rubber boots
    getting the most out of my rubber boots

     

    The scenery kept changing as our hike progressed. From farms, to jungle, over hanging bridges,  through flower fields…

    farmer on his wat to his finca
    farmer on his way to his finca
    farms, hiking cocora valley, colombia
    farms
    mud puddles in the morning light
    mud puddles in the morning light
    in the woods...
    in the woods…
    over the bridges
    over the bridges
    high altitude flowers
    high altitude flowers

     

    Finally we arrived in an exotic fairy tale setting…

    Cocora VAlley, Colombia
    hello wax palms!
    Cocora valley, Colombia
    enjoying the unique view

     

    The tall wax palms skyline. Just incredible!

    Cocora valley, Colombia
    I could have stayed for hours!

     

    I never really understood how it was possible that we didn’t see any of the other hiker during our whole time in the valley. Especially because we started out with so many. We did the somewhat shorter version of the hike, skipping the hummingbird station, Acaime. No regrets here as we saw lots of humming birds on the way.

    Cocora valley, Colombia
    a dream come true

     

    A word of advice for anyone thinking about doing this hike, leave as early in the morning as possible. You’ll have magical morning light to start your hike with, you’ll be less likely to get caught in the rain (it often comes down pouring the afternoon) and you’ll avoid the crowds. Just check when the first jeeps leave and make sure you catch one. It’s a half day hike so don’t forget to bring water and some snacks!

     Did you know about the Cocora Valley? Would you put it on your bucket list? 

    The post “Hiking the Cocora Valley, Colombia” first appeared on Travel Cake. 

     

  • 5 Quirky things to do in Bogota, Colombia

    5 Quirky things to do in Bogota, Colombia

    Every time I spend a reasonable amount of time in a big city, I try to look for some funny, cool, quirky things to do besides the general tourist attractions. As this was my second time in Bogotá, it didn’t take me long to have completed the list of “must-sees”.

    Though I found Latin America to be generally less quirky than Asia, there are still plenty of unusual, zany thing to be found. This is what I found during my week in Bogotá…

     

    1. For women only: Stay at the Women’s Wellness Hostel Spa

    The women’s wellness hostel spa focusses on the well being and relaxation of female travellers, more specifically women who have just undergone cosmetic surgery and those travelling to Bogotá for child birth. First of all, let me tell you this: cosmetic surgery tourism, is absolutely a thing in Colombia. You’ll find women from all over the country as well as international travellers flocking to the capital for their ‘grade A’ surgeries. Colombia is reputed to have some of the best cosmetic surgeons in the region at a fair price (about one third of the price in the USA or Europe).

    Now, there’s no need to get “work done” to stay at this hostel as they welcome ALL women, surgery vacation or not. They have a small gym, a beauty salon and a homely spa to offer their guest some relaxing “me-time”.  I stayed a couple of nights (FYI, I had no surgery done, it just seemed fun to stay at a women’s only hostel for a change) and indulged in a spa night: sauna, massage by the chiminea, full body scrub, chocolate body mask and candlelit jacuzzi. I had the spa all to myself and was guided by a masseuse with golden hands who took care of me so well, I felt like royalty. The rates per night are hostel rates so don’t expect a fancy spa… It’s more like a cosy home stay.

    Women's wellness hostel spa, Bogota
    jacuzzi fit for a queen…

     

    The room was small but tidy; perfect to reconnect with myself after a lot of traveling. The hostel is far from the centre though, so if your mind is set on exploring the old centre, this is not the place to be. If you’ve already visited Bogotá and are in town just to catch your flight, it’s definitely a spot to consider.

    Women's wellness hostel spa, Bogota
    the single room, Colombian breakfast (huevos revueltos, arepa and hot chocolate with panela, fresh juice), the massage table by the chiminea

     

    Rates are approx. 26$ for a double room, 21$ for a single, breakfast included. You can book with them directly or through your usual hostel booking site. Calle 159 A N° 22 – 11, Bogotá.

     

    2. Beer and explosives: Play a few rounds of Tejo

    A game where beer flows heavily and explosives spark up continuously, what could possibly go wrong? Tejo is one of Colombia’s traditional ancient sports. Though the sport/game in itself doesn’t necessarily involve drinking, the informal tournaments today are often played while consuming (lots) of beer. To play the game’s simplified version, contestants throw a round metal puck, a tejo, across the lane to hit a target about 20 meters away. What’s the target? Small triangular envelopes filled with gun powder secured with clay on a board. Each time your tejo hits the gunpowder an explosion occurs and you score points! With the explosions come cheering, laughing and -there it is- large quantities of beer.

    tejo, Bogota
    ready to play
    tejo
    gunpowder envelope and tejo

    Tejo has become a popular backpackers’ activity and many hostels organise “tejo nights” with a “drink-all-the-beer-you-can” formula.

     

    3. Dunk your cheese in a cup of hot sugar water: Aguapanela con queso

    You can try aguapanela all over the country, you could even find it in other Latin American countries but it’s said to be a Colombian speciality. Hot aguapanela is made by melting some ‘panela’ into hot water. Panela is a product made from sugar cane, tasting somewhat similar to brown sugar. Supposedly, it boasts lot’s of healthy components such as vitamin C (more than in fresh orange juice) and rehydrating minerals. I don’t know, it tasted just like sugar to me. Aguapanela can be drunk cold, perhaps with a squeeze of lemon or hot, with a splash of (chocolate)milk. According to Colombian tradition, hot aguapanela is best enjoyed by dunking a chunk of fermented cheese in your cup. For someone like me, who has mostly given up sugar, this was an absolutely undrinkable concoction. But definitely worth a try if you’re looking to attempt new things and are interested in the country’s traditions.

    Aguapanela con queso
    Aguapanela con queso. Source

     

    4. Quadruple your spare change on the streets: Gamble on a guinea pig

    The concept is simple, a man on the street lays a bunch of numbered plastic cups upside down in a circle. You place your bet, thus your spare change, on top of what you think will be the winning cup. The host of the game then releases one of his guinea pigs who will chose the winning cup. If the rodent enters the cup your change is sitting on, you are the winner and you will receive 4 or 5 times the money you bet. You lose your change if the guinea pig doesn’t chose your cup. Of course the odds are not very favourable and these animals are trained, so it’s not really a trustworthy game, as with most street games. It is an entertaining street act however. You should see participating as dropping a few coins in the hat of a street artist. If you are concerned about animal cruelty, I can’t really say what these animals’ lives are like, but they all looked healthy, well fed and groomed.

    Guinea pig Bogota
    tourists en locals in full suspense…

    You can run into these games on the streets of Bogotá as well as in other Colombian cities.

     

    5. Dine and Dance in hell, purgatory or heaven: Andrés D.C.

    I wouldn’t know how else to describe this restaurant other than quirky. Andrés D.C. prides itself with 4 floors of total madness. The top floor represents heaven and as you lower down, you’ll reach earth, purgatory and eventually hell. Upon entering the restaurant, you won’t know where to look: the decor is insane featuring all kinds of kitsch trinkets, all matching the floor’s theme. Then, there is the staff bouncing around in wacky outfits (think disco dude or lady from a Botero painting- with fake, disproportioned arms and behinds). Once you’re seated, try to chose an item from the menu… I think it’s the longest menu I’ve ever seen: it’s a bout 30 pages long. While you try to make what seems like an impossible choice, the staff will serenade you, make you dance, bring props for you to wear… They’re not just your waiters, they are your entertainment for the night.

    the crazier, the better
    the crazier, the better
    Andres D.C., Bogota
    serenaded by the entertainers

     

    You never know what might happen next while you’re sipping on your “lethal mojito”. If the loud music, the laughter and the cocktails have given you an appetite for a dance, just head to hell where you can devilishly swing your hips while you wait for your food. The food is very tasty but let’s face it, you don’ t really dine here for the grub… It’s the atmosphere and the original concept that make this restaurant worthwhile.

    lively dance floor (source)
    lively dance floor (source)

     

    Andrés D.C. is extremely popular, so make sure you have a reservation or you’re in for a very long wait. Now that’s what I would call hell. Calle 82, No. 12-21, C.C. El Retiro, Zona Rosa, Bogotá

    Have you been to Bogota? What did you think of the city?

     

    The post “5 Quirky things to do in Bogotá” first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • 12 Favourite Destinations

    12 Favourite Destinations

    It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.

    I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”

    “When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.

    In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.

    With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.

    While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…

     

    So in no Particular order

    1. Oman

    I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.

    wadi perfect for a dip
    wadi perfect for a dip

     

    2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London

    I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.

    London
    some amazing food in the area

     

    3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali

    This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic

    rice fields around Ubud
    rice fields around Ubud

     

    4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe

    As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.

    ZIMBABWE
    sunset over the Zambezi

     

    5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland

    The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.

    IRELAND
    somewhere along the way

     

    6. Living the island life in Zanzibar

    I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.

    ZANZIBAR
    Zanzibari fishing village

     

    7. Morocco

    Every time I go to Morocco I’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.

    MAROKKO,  Aït Benhaddou
    Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou

     

    8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste

    It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventure that made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.

    TIMOR, coastline in Dili
    coastline in Dili

     

    9. Hiking Dominica

    Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.

    DOMINICA
    every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island

     

    10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel

    Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.

    quiet streets of the old city
    quiet streets of the old city

     

    11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela

    Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.

    VENEZUELA
    Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean

     

    12. Bhaktapur, Nepal

    Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!

    BAKTAPUR
    Bhaktapur in the morning light

     

    I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.

    I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.

    What are your 5 favourite destinations?  

     

    The post “12 Favourite Destinations” first appeared on Travel Cake.