Category: Turkey

  • 9 Day Trips you should Never Take

    9 Day Trips you should Never Take

    … Because they should be overnight trips!

     

    Day trips… they’re convenient when you want to see as much of a region as possible in a short amount of time. However, there are quite a lot of these convenient trips that really don’t do the place justice. You find yourself with hundreds if not thousands of day trippers, packed in the same shops and highlighted areas, you miss the perfect lighting for incredible photo’s at dusk or dawn and most importantly, you by-pass the soul of that place.

    It happened to me a few times while other on other occasions I saw it happening to others. I’ve put together a list of places where I’ve either been bummed out not to have spent the night or have been extremely happy not to be part of the day tripper groups visiting the town.

     

    1. Bhaktapur, Nepal

    Often done as quick side trip from Kathmandu, most visitors only get a glimpse of the cultural gem of Bhaktapur. A day trip here will allow you to spend a few hours in the central area, have lunch in a reputed restaurants’ and shop in one of the many little kiosks surrounding the main square. It’s a small city swarming with monuments, religious shrines, gilded roofs and palaces with elaborate carvings which you could explore in just a day. However…

    Bhaktapur, Nepal, momuments
    Bhaktapur is like and open air museum only it’s not staged

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    The essence of Bhaktapur is only to be experienced at sunrise. That’s when the people change Bhaktapur into a magical place. Women and children step out of their houses with platters full of offerings and start their rounds for the gods. They stop at every shrine and every corner of spiritual importance to bring an offering, say a prayer and conduct complex rituals which you, as an outsider, couldn’t possibly wrap your mind around. The smell of incense fills up the crisp morning air while the weak sun rays highlight some of Bhaktapur’s finest art.

    Bhaktapur, Nepal

    As I mentioned before, Bhaktapur is one of my 12 favourite destinations of all times and the mornings are exactly what made this place more memorable and alluring than others. Coming here on a day trip would mean missing the morning’s enchantment, when the tourists are still in bed in Kathmandu and the town is the playground of the people and their gods.

    Bhaktapur, Nepal, offerings
    morning offerings

     

    2. Guatape, Colombia

    I visited Guatape as a day trip from Medellin by public transport. About halfway through the day, I kicked myself in the head for not being able to spend the night in this extremely colourful town.

    Guatape
    Guatape

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    Though Guatape is very small and you definitely could see everything in just a few hours, what I missed was the great lighting you would find early in the morning and in the evenings. Even if you’re not into photography, you’ll probably want to extensively photograph Guatape. It might be the cutest, most colourful town I’ve ever seen. The bright sunlight during the day makes it tough to capture all the details without harsh shadows overcasting the scenes. We noticed the town turning even more stunning as the late afternoon sun set in. Unfortunately, that was also our cue to head back since we didn’t want to arrive at the Medellin bus terminal at night. Dinner and a cool beer at sunset would have been the way to end the day in Guatape.

    wishing we could capture the town during sunset
    wishing we could captured the town during sunset

    3. Bethlehem, West Bank

    Busloads of tourists coming from Jerusalem,Israel swarm the central square of Bethlehem in Palestine every day. The tours take care of the border crossing, a visit to the historical/religious sanctuaries and safely return the tourists back to Israel after having visited the supposed birthplace of Jezus Christ. Although I understand the importance for many to visit a place of such significance, there is much more to Bethlem/Palestine…

    wall-with-watch-tower
    the wall separating Israel and West-Bank

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    By staying in Bethlehem we were able to visit (and spent a few nights in) a refugee camp, talk to the people of Palestine, get into the current culture, broaden our knowledge on the complex situation… Missing these experiences is missing the point of going to Bethlehem. If you want to see where Jezus was born, shouldn’t you see and experience the place it is today as well? My stay in Palestine was eye-opening on so many levels, I could only feel regret for the people who were missing out on the enrichment by only being exposed to a particular church and shrines. If you want to know more about travel in West Bank, read my post to find out what’s in Palestine.

     West bank, Palestine Tourism
    kids at school in refugee camp, the market, Douglas getting a shave, Palestinian specialties, having mint tea on the street in Bethlehem (click to enlarge)

     

    4. Pamukkale, Turkey

    The cotton castle of Turkey, usually visited as part of a day trip from resorts on the Turkish Riviera. I was surprised to see hundreds of tourists on the site but only a handful of hotels in the town; hello day trippers.

    Pamukkale, Turkey, cotton castle
    Pamukkale

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    Stay the night in the town of Pamukkale and you’ll have the otherwise overrun by tourist cotton castle all to yourself at the crack of dawn. I was the first person to enter the site that day and had teary eyes when I was confronted with the natural beauty and serenity of Pamukkale. I hopped barefooted from one white rock formation to the next, laughing like a child. It was as though I had found a hidden treasure.

    Pamukkale, Turkey, cotton castle
    arriving at the cotton castle at sunrise

     

    Half an hour after my treasure discovery came the first round of day trippers: the Koreans. While they were very respectful of the site and taking their time to look around, I could already feel a change in atmosphere. By the time the buses of Russians took the relay, the serenity was over. People were more interested in snapping themselves looking sexy than in the site. Beers were consumed, hamburgers and ice creams were spilt and what was a place of wonder just a few hours before, turned into a what resembled a crowed outdoors public swimming pool on a hot summer weekend.

    I stayed until closing time but the serenity never returned. I understood it could only be there after the site had spent a night recovering from the assault of mass tourism. When I overheard some day trippers complaining about what a tourist trap Pamukkale is, I knew I had made the right move by spending the night and being the first visitor in the morning.

    Photo shooting... Quite amusing to watch, but happy that was not ALL I got to see of Pamukkale
    Photo shooting… Quite amusing to watch, but happy that was not ALL I got to see of Pamukkale (click to enlarge)

     

    5. Scottish Highlands, Scotland

    What was I thinking, booking a day trip from Edinburgh to The Scottish Highlands?! It seemed to be the only way to visit this area during my short stay in Scotland. Boy, did I regret that decision.

    Scottish highlands
    landscape that calls for a hike

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    As we were driving by the hills that changed colours as the clouds shifted, all I wanted to do was to get out of the van and start walking amongst them. But I couldn’t, we were on a tight schedule. Damn these day trips. So what you miss is basically everything. Yes, I saw Loch Ness and yes, I had a delicious meal (haggis, what else) in one of those typical Scottish pubs but I didn’t get to spend the night in a rustic B&B or a local sheep farm. Nor was I getting my hiking boots dirty or drinking whisky with Scotsmen. By trying to see too much too fast, I missed most of what the Scottish highlands have to offer.

    Loch Ness in the rain, in a hurry
    Loch Ness in the rain, in a hurry

     

    6. Mekong Delta, Vietnam

    Most travellers wanting to visit the Mekong Delta book a day trip from Saigon. It usually consists of a boat ride down the Mekong (while wearing conical hats) with a few stops along the river banks showcasing “real life” around the Mekong. Sometimes the tours also provide bicycles which you ride along the river following your guide and the 20 other members of your group. After lunch and perhaps a few shots of snake-scorpion liquor, visitors are returned to the big city.

    Mekong Delta
    Mekong Delta (click to enlarge)

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    Making it an overnight trip gives you the freedom to do the same thing minus the groups and the tight schedule. Because guess what? “Real life” along the Mekong doesn’t run on a tight schedule.

    We took a public bus to one of the towns by the Mekong then locally booked a boat in the morning -specifically asking for the conical hats. Since no other tourist had apparently spent the night in this town, we had the boat to ourselves. In the afternoon we rented bicycles and randomly started biking. No plan, just me, my friend, the Mekong and its inhabitants. We stopped whenever we wanted, spent an hour hiding from the the rain with a cup of white coffee in a local farmer’s house and headed back when the sun started setting. We drank beer and ordered the old “we’ll have whatever they’re having”. With no tourists in town we were (sort of) part of the Mekong community for two days. That’s something you can’t say if you’re passing by on a touristy day trip.

    getting lost around the Mekong (click to enlarge)
    getting lost around the Mekong (click to enlarge)

     

    7. Berat, Albania

    As Berat is listed as a UNESCO hertige site, people tend to just want to tick it off their ‘to do list’ and move on. For some, Berat is mere a day trip from Durres on the coast or from the capital Tirana.

    Berat Albania
    city of a thousand windows

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    If you’ve been reading this blog, you already know Berat’s beauty made me weep and that it was one of my highlights in Albania. Spending the night in the city of a thousand windows allowed me to take it easy in this gorgeous town and savour its charm.

    I met a traveller who had been to Berat right before me and told me she wasn’t impressed. Immediately whereafter she admitted only having spent two hours there and not have made it to the beautiful parts. Because it’s such a slow paced town, it’s best visited at a slow pace. Spending the night allows you to do just that and get in sync with the spirit of Berat.

    coffee, Berat, Albania
    having time to have a cup of coffee in this nice Albanian lady’s home

     

    8. Ubud, Bali

    Don’t be fooled by Ubud’s popularity for long and semi long stays, the town get a lot of day trippers. Big buses clog up the main streets and the day trippers come pouring in. The typical day trip consists of hitting the Monkey Forest, doing some shopping in the main street, having an ice cream or perhaps lunch, then heading to a surrounding temple or viewpoint before returning to the coast.

    monkey forest Ubud Bali
    the ‘oh so popular’ Monkey Forest

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    You’ll miss the plethora of incredible little restaurants tucked away in surrounding streets and the calm in the rice fields you find just outside the city centre… On a day trip, you’ll only have enough time to hit the main street which is not Ubud’s best asset. For that reason most the day trippers I have spoken with, found Ubud to be too crowded, too commercial and not authentic at all. Yes, that’s because they were in the wrong area during day tripper peak moment (between 10AM and 4PM). Spend the night -or even better, several nights- and you’ll see a completely different face of the town. A much prettier, more genuine and serener one. And please, forget about the Monkey Forest.

    Bali hot springs
    you will not find the cool, tranquil spots when coming to Ubud for the day

     

    9. Petra, Jordan

    Either from Amman in Jordan or Eilat in Israel, day trippers drive to Petra, spend a few hours exploring the main passageways then return to their hubs or set their journeys onwards.

    entering Petra
    entering Petra

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    After spending an entire day exploring Petra, getting lost in majestic caves and climbing the pink rock formations we were happy to casually hang around the site and spend some time with bedouins who had their tents set up near Petra. They offered us tea, played music around a small fire while the sun was disappearing behind the horizon. They shared tales about their families who have been living in the area for centuries. Later, a dinner fit for kings was prepared for us, just down the road from Petra.

    On some nights, Petra opens its doors to present a candlelit version of itself. You may not want to dish up the extra cash for the candlelight show, but sleeping in the arid desert area surrounding Petra and meeting the inhabitants is an experience you don’t want to miss out on.

    meeting people Petra Jordan
    meeting the people, sharing food (click to enlarge)

    Have you ever regretted a day trip because it should have been an overnight trip? Where was it?

    The post “9 day trips you should never take“, first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Cappadocia on a Budget

    Cappadocia on a Budget

    Desperately needing to spend some time in nature and to get a dose of exoticism, I set off to Turkey. My budget was rather tight, but according to my research, I wouldn’t be needing much spending money in Turkey’s easternmost province, near the border with Iran. Perfect, I thought…

    As I arrived in Istanbul, I found out that unfortunately, recent political turmoil had turned the area I wanted to visit into a temporary ‘no-go zone’. I seriously considered persevering my trip despite the issues, but the travel agent almost refused to sell me a bus ticket and insisted I change plans. Eventually, the flexible and sensible traveller in me arose and I decided to go to Cappadocia instead.

    Cappadocia, historical region in central Turkey
    Cappadocia, historical region in central Turkey

     

    Cappadocia being one of the most popular areas in Turkey, I knew it would be trickier with my small budget. Since I managed to stay within budget, I thought I’d share some of the tricks that could allow you to have a cheap Cappadocia trip.

    1. The classic: take the overnight bus to get there

    Obviously, it saves you a night at the hotel. Taking the long distance bus from Istanbul to Göreme, the “hub” in Cappadocia, is like flying business class. Think wide reclinable seats with lots of leg space, a complementary blanket and a personal screen displaying movies- in Turkish. During the ride, a “bus attendant” strides through the vehicle’s aisle serving drinks/snacks and makes sure the bus is always tidy. The downside: there’s a toilet/smoke break every hour or so and all lights are turned on at each stop. So, maybe not the best night of sleep.

    2. Walk to enjoy the magical landscapes

    There are plenty of tours designed to show you the area, but honestly, you can do without. Just pick up a map and start walking. One of the tours might be worth paying for (the Green Tour) as the attractions are spread out over a large area. However, taking this tour reminded me how much I hate group tours. Important: if you don’t take any kind of tour, make sure you read up on the history of the area. It’s fascinating!

    easy to find your way
    easy to find your way
    the love valley
    the love valley
    visiting preserved church murals with green tour
    visiting 11th century murals with green tour

     

    3. Hitchhike

    You might be discouraged to go for a long walk because that would also mean a long hike back to town. However, people in the area are generally open to hitchhikers and chances are you’ll get picked up by the first car/truck with an open seat.

    waiting for a ride...
    waiting for a ride…

     

    4. Lodge in a cave

    Not only is it part of the whole Cappadocia experience, it can also be very affordable. Many of the cave houses have been transformed into home stays and pensions. You can easily find an inexpensive dorm room (+- €7, at the time of writing) in a cave hotel with swimming pool. Most of these places additionally offer a generous breakfast buffet, leaving you full until the afternoon.

    unusual place to stay
    feeling like the Flinstones
    not bad for a hostel...
    not bad for a hostel…

     

    5. It’s OK to skip the hot air balloon flight

    It seems as though every single visitor to the region embarks in a hot air balloon during their visits… “an essential Cappadocia experience”. Admittedly, it’s probably gorgeous, memorable and what not. But with prices starting at €120 for a one hour flight in a crammed basket, the budget traveller starts to doubt… That’s food for a week! A great alternative is to wake up at dawn and watch the balloons float through the morning sky. Dozens of balloons amongst the fairy chimneys. Stunning! At no point did I wish to be inside a balloon… This view was just perfect -and free.

    the town at dawn
    the town at dawn
    sunrise, hot air balloons and a new friend...priceless
    sunrise, hot air balloons and a new friend…priceless

     

    6. Cappadocian wine tasting

    Wait, what is wine tasting doing on a “budget tip” list? First of all because… Turkish wine? Who knew?! That’s just an exciting must-try! Regardless of your budget. Second, a glass of Cappadocian wine is moderately priced and -in my humble opinion- not that great (yet?), so you’re not likely to go for seconds. Still worth a taste!

    wine tasting along the way
    wine tasting along the way

     

    7. Skip the Hammam

    The Hammam in Göreme is pricey. Unless that’s where you want to splurge, I suggest you hold that experience for a larger city in Turkey.

    8. Relax and Enjoy the silence 

    Although you’re in a touristy area, it’s still a quiet environment. Order a pot of tea and do some people watching or read that book you’ve been carrying around… Savour the peace and quite while soaking in the surroundings. This is probably my favourite thing about traveling on a budget: the monetary restrictions force you to spend at least one day not spending and consuming but slowing down and enjoying the beautiful, small things in this world.

    TEA ON A TERRACE
    customary tulip tea glass
    in silence
    in silence

     

    9. Donate a strand of hair to win a trip back to Cappadocia

    There is a tiny ‘hair museum’ in the town of Avanos. It’s basically a cave with over 16.000 hair strands hanging from the walls and ceiling. Female visitors from all over the world donate a lock of hair to which their names and address is adhered. Twice a year, Mr. Galip, potter and owner of the museum, picks a lucky winner to return to Cappadocia and learn the art of pottery, all expenses paid. He has not mailed me yet. Entrance to the museum is free.

    walls of hair
    walls of hair (photo credits)

     

    Have you been to Cappadocia? 

    The post “Cappadocia on a budget” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • 10 Things I loved about Istanbul

    10 Things I loved about Istanbul

    There were more than 10 things I loved about Istanbul, but I’ve made a list of the most obvious and memorable reasons.

    1. The Markets and Bazaars

    Visiting markets are by default my favorite thing to do while I’m travelling. It’s where you can get a feel of what local life is all about. It’s the place you are most likely to be overwhelmed with curious smells, a mix of colours,foreign sounds, unfamiliar tastes, big smiles, sharp selling techniques… I hardly ever head to the market to shop, but to more to experience a new city. The markets and bazaars in Istanbul were no different. Although I did end up buying some local delights after sampling some tea’s, sweets, honey, cheeses and herbs.

     

    FISH MARKET
    fish market
    LAMPS AT THE BAZAR
    lamps at the bazar
    SPICE BAZAR
    the Grand Bazar
    SPICE BAZAR
    Spice Bazar

     

     

    2. The Street food + vendors

    The street food I found in Istanbul was nothing I’d never seen before (except the stuffed mussels, yummy!), yet there is something very appealing about getting your food off the streets. It’s always very affordable and the vendors in Istanbul seemed to have a great time selling a show along with their product. Whether it’s your grilled sardine being thrown onto your sandwich bun from 5 meters away, or it’s the sweet nothings the vendor whispers into your ear as you reach for your döner, there is nothing ordinary about ordering a portion of street food in Istanbul. Try getting a “dondurma” (chewy Turkish ice cream), you’ll certainly get a complementary show.

    KEBAB
    kebab
    GETTING A DONDURMA
    getting a dondurma

     

     

    3. The views from and around the Bosporus

    The river flowing through the city forms the backdrop for a romantic scene. Lovers, fishermen, kids playing, families on their outing, teenagers killing time… There is life around the Bosporus, that’s certain.

    ROMANCE  bosporus
    romance
    SUNSET BY THE RIVER
    sunset by the river
    VIEW FROM THE BOSPORUS
    view from the Bosporus

     

    4. The hip boutiques in Karaköy, Beyoğlu

    Even though these shops where not within my budget range, I had such a good time window shopping and browsing the “sales-racks”  hoping to find a steal. I often said to myself: “I’ll come back when I have more money!” The best shops, offering unique pieces by young designers, are off the main roads and near the Galata tower. Prices here are similar to those in western Europe.

    BOUTIQUES
    boutiques

     

     

    5. Fresh juice any time of the day

    Apple, carrot, pomegranate, raisin, orange, lemon, strawberry, melon, pineapple, peach… All the fruity flavours you can imagine, whenever you want, for a very sharp price. Hello vitamins!

     

    FRESH JUICE
    fresh juice

     

    6. The old town

    You could spend a whole week (or more) discovering this area, in fact, many tourist never make it to the other parts of town. I didn’t visit all the mosques and museums, nor did I walk all over the old town with a tour guide, so I missed out on the thousands of  historical tales and explanations on the city. However, I managed to arrive at the sites before all the other tourist did which allowed me to get a real feel of that part of town… There is such serenity and spirituality in the air. At the crack of dawn, that is…

    INSIDE THE MOSQUE
    inside the mosque
    BY THE MOSQUE
    by the mosque
    BLUE MOSQUE AT DAWN
    blue mosque at dawn

    7. The street art

    ..

    MURAL
    comic mural
    MURAL
    mural

     

    8. Shops selling the most random things

    It makes the city all the more interesting. How often do you see a shop entirely dedicated to growing and selling medicinal leeches? (you place them on your body when you’re ill and they suck out the infested blood…)

    BB GUNS
    BB guns
    OLD PERSONAL PHOTOS FOR SALE
    old personal photos for sale

     

    9. Tea time break

    I think I probably had a tea break every hour, two hours max. Just sitting along the road side or a terrace in the shade with a glass of hot tea and a book, watching people get on with their lives. Just wonderful!

    TEA ON A TERRACE
    tea on a terrace
    TEA AND CIGARETTES
    tea and cigarettes

    10. The surprises

    I was often surprised in Istanbul. Small surprises and bigger ones. I don’t want to give away any spoilers, but these are just some of  the unexpected elements . Visit Istanbul to discover which surprises the city has in store for you.

    STREET PERFORMANCE
    heart warming street performance
    MOVIE SCENE
    movie scene
    CHURCH IN THE MIDDLE OF TOWN
    catholic church in the middle of town

     

    Have you ever been to Istanbul? What was your favourite thing?

     The post “10 Things I loved about Istanbul” first appeared on Travel Cake.