It’s been quiet on Travel Cake these past few months. Some of you have been asking me where I’ve been and what I’ve been up to. Well, I can tell you this much: I haven’t been slacking!
I’ve moved from Ecuador to Belgium where I have been slaving away at a 9 to 5 desk job. Being back in my hometown has been wonderful in terms of reconnecting with friends, family and the city. You may have read the mini luxury guide to Ghent I wrote for travel blog “Hippie in Heels”. You may also have read what I had to say about travel photography in an article for “Voyager for life“.
saying my goodbyes to Ecuador
But most importantly, I’ve been preparing for the trip of a lifetime. A new adventure, greater than any I’ve ever been on before.
Destination?
Motherhood.
That’s right,I said motherhood.
The journey began 10 months ago in Iran and continued in Ecuador and Colombia. It took a turn in the US and passed by the Netherlands. It then continued to Belgium where our daughter was born. Our ‘Mini Travel Cake’ is a sweet and funny baby with a traveller’s spirit. How could it be any different, she is only a month old and has already been to 6 countries!
Does this mean Travel Cake is turning into a mommy blog?
No. Plain and simple. It’s just not my cup of tea. However, I’ll probably publish an article related to kids and travel every once in a while. But in general I plan on publishing the same kind of content as I have so far.
As my pregnancy came to an end, I was stuck indoors with a swollen face hiding from the summer heat. Knowing that my life will never be exactly the same again, I thought about my passed travels. Motherhood is probably the most intense and life changing adventure of them all and I’m THRILLED not to have rushed into it. Thrilled to have taken time to see and experience as much of the world as possible while being relatively carefree. That’s why, as a tribute to carefree travelling, I will be posting a countdown of my 100 most memorable, essential travel experiences.
Here goes part 1, in no particular order:
100. Driving miles and miles on the rooftops of Nepali busses.
A drink, music blasting from your headphones and wind running through your hair… the best seats are in between the luggage on the roof of the bus!
Morocco’s riads are so romantic, so sophisticated and worth the occational splurge. I tried looking the part sippin’ on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco’s fancy riads. Click on the title to read about my weekend in Fez, Morocco.
98. Floating through life on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala
Waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways, sigh…
Water party in a pop-up day clubThis is a common street scene in Yangon during the water festival. Click on the title to read about our experiences during Thingyan.
Our first and very ill prepared trek at 4300m altitude. Click on the title to read a post related to trekking.
95. Rum cocktails in Castro’s Cuba
Cuba during Castro’s reign was such a bizarre yet unique and enchanting place. At least for visitors. Things may have changed but I’m sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!
After a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption. Click on the title to read about my hike in the Albanian Alps.
93. Spending the night in the garden of Eden in the Democratic Republic of Congo
Watching the sun set after a long walk in what seemed like the garden of Eden. DRC has fantastic nature, I wish I could say the same for the political situation.
A childhood dream came true when we spotted these cuties in the jungle of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Click on the title to read more about our time in Sulawesi.
91. Fishing, sunbathing and drinking on a catamaran in Los Roques, Venezuela
My first time on a caribbean beach, I was overwhelmed by the high tropical factor
90. Traveling by train in Russia
I got to know my cabin mates by communicating with signs on a 40 hour train ride to the Russian Arctic
Camping on a deserted beach in southern Oman.We stumbled upon some sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Click on the title to read about my road trip to Oman.
86. Learning to scuba dive
Wreck diving in the Philippines, a new world opening up…My first open water dive in Zanzibar, one of many more to come.
The more I talked to local people on both sides of the conflict, the more confused I was on the issues. No matter how much I hung out in the old streets of Jerusalem. Read more about my trip to Israel.Crossing the horrendous border to Palestine. Click on the title to read more about my findings in Palestine.
Day trips… they’re convenient when you want to see as much of a region as possible in a short amount of time. However, there are quite a lot of these convenient trips that really don’t do the place justice. You find yourself with hundreds if not thousands of day trippers, packed in the same shops and highlighted areas, you miss the perfect lighting for incredible photo’s at dusk or dawn and most importantly, you by-pass the soul of that place.
It happened to me a few times while other on other occasions I saw it happening to others. I’ve put together a list of places where I’ve either been bummed out not to have spent the night or have been extremely happy not to be part of the day tripper groups visiting the town.
1. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Often done as quick side trip from Kathmandu, most visitors only get a glimpse of the cultural gem of Bhaktapur. A day trip here will allow you to spend a few hours in the central area, have lunch in a reputed restaurants’ and shop in one of the many little kiosks surrounding the main square. It’s a small city swarming with monuments, religious shrines, gilded roofs and palaces with elaborate carvings which you could explore in just a day. However…
Bhaktapur is like and open air museum only it’s not staged
What you miss by making it a day trip
The essence of Bhaktapur is only to be experienced at sunrise. That’s when the people change Bhaktapur into a magical place. Women and children step out of their houses with platters full of offerings and start their rounds for the gods. They stop at every shrine and every corner of spiritual importance to bring an offering, say a prayer and conduct complex rituals which you, as an outsider, couldn’t possibly wrap your mind around. The smell of incense fills up the crisp morning air while the weak sun rays highlight some of Bhaktapur’s finest art.
As I mentioned before, Bhaktapur is one of my 12 favourite destinations of all times and the mornings are exactly what made this place more memorable and alluring than others. Coming here on a day trip would mean missing the morning’s enchantment, when the tourists are still in bed in Kathmandu and the town is the playground of the people and their gods.
morning offerings
2. Guatape, Colombia
I visited Guatape as a day trip from Medellin by public transport. About halfway through the day, I kicked myself in the head for not being able to spend the night in this extremely colourful town.
Guatape
What you miss by making it a day trip
Though Guatape is very small and you definitely could see everything in just a few hours, what I missed was the great lighting you would find early in the morning and in the evenings. Even if you’re not into photography, you’ll probably want to extensively photograph Guatape. It might be the cutest, most colourful town I’ve ever seen. The bright sunlight during the day makes it tough to capture all the details without harsh shadows overcasting the scenes. We noticed the town turning even more stunning as the late afternoon sun set in. Unfortunately, that was also our cue to head back since we didn’t want to arrive at the Medellin bus terminal at night. Dinner and a cool beer at sunset would have been the way to end the day in Guatape.
wishing we could captured the town during sunset
3. Bethlehem, West Bank
Busloads of tourists coming from Jerusalem,Israel swarm the central square of Bethlehem in Palestine every day. The tours take care of the border crossing, a visit to the historical/religious sanctuaries and safely return the tourists back to Israel after having visited the supposed birthplace of Jezus Christ. Although I understand the importance for many to visit a place of such significance, there is much more to Bethlem/Palestine…
the wall separating Israel and West-Bank
What you miss by making it a day trip
By staying in Bethlehem we were able to visit (and spent a few nights in) a refugee camp, talk to the people of Palestine, get into the current culture, broaden our knowledge on the complex situation… Missing these experiences is missing the point of going to Bethlehem. If you want to see where Jezus was born, shouldn’t you see and experience the place it is today as well? My stay in Palestine was eye-opening on so many levels, I could only feel regret for the people who were missing out on the enrichment by only being exposed to a particular church and shrines. If you want to know more about travel in West Bank, read my post to find out what’s in Palestine.
kids at school in refugee camp, the market, Douglas getting a shave, Palestinian specialties, having mint tea on the street in Bethlehem (click to enlarge)
4. Pamukkale, Turkey
The cotton castle of Turkey, usually visited as part of a day trip from resorts on the Turkish Riviera. I was surprised to see hundreds of tourists on the site but only a handful of hotels in the town; hello day trippers.
Pamukkale
What you miss by making it a day trip
Stay the night in the town of Pamukkale and you’ll have the otherwise overrun by tourist cotton castle all to yourself at the crack of dawn. I was the first person to enter the site that day and had teary eyes when I was confronted with the natural beauty and serenity of Pamukkale. I hopped barefooted from one white rock formation to the next, laughing like a child. It was as though I had found a hidden treasure.
arriving at the cotton castle at sunrise
Half an hour after my treasure discovery came the first round of day trippers: the Koreans. While they were very respectful of the site and taking their time to look around, I could already feel a change in atmosphere. By the time the buses of Russians took the relay, the serenity was over. People were more interested in snapping themselves looking sexy than in the site. Beers were consumed, hamburgers and ice creams were spilt and what was a place of wonder just a few hours before, turned into a what resembled a crowed outdoors public swimming pool on a hot summer weekend.
I stayed until closing time but the serenity never returned. I understood it could only be there after the site had spent a night recovering from the assault of mass tourism. When I overheard some day trippers complaining about what a tourist trap Pamukkale is, I knew I had made the right move by spending the night and being the first visitor in the morning.
Photo shooting… Quite amusing to watch, but happy that was not ALL I got to see of Pamukkale (click to enlarge)
5. Scottish Highlands, Scotland
What was I thinking, booking a day trip from Edinburgh to The Scottish Highlands?! It seemed to be the only way to visit this area during my short stay in Scotland. Boy, did I regret that decision.
landscape that calls for a hike
What you miss by making it a day trip
As we were driving by the hills that changed colours as the clouds shifted, all I wanted to do was to get out of the van and start walking amongst them. But I couldn’t, we were on a tight schedule. Damn these day trips. So what you miss is basically everything. Yes, I saw Loch Ness and yes, I had a delicious meal (haggis, what else) in one of those typical Scottish pubs but I didn’t get to spend the night in a rustic B&B or a local sheep farm. Nor was I getting my hiking boots dirty or drinking whisky with Scotsmen. By trying to see too much too fast, I missed most of what the Scottish highlands have to offer.
Loch Ness in the rain, in a hurry
6. Mekong Delta, Vietnam
Most travellers wanting to visit the Mekong Delta book a day trip from Saigon. It usually consists of a boat ride down the Mekong (while wearing conical hats) with a few stops along the river banks showcasing “real life” around the Mekong. Sometimes the tours also provide bicycles which you ride along the river following your guide and the 20 other members of your group. After lunch and perhaps a few shots of snake-scorpion liquor, visitors are returned to the big city.
Mekong Delta (click to enlarge)
What you miss by making it a day trip
Making it an overnight trip gives you the freedom to do the same thing minus the groups and the tight schedule. Because guess what? “Real life” along the Mekong doesn’t run on a tight schedule.
We took a public bus to one of the towns by the Mekong then locally booked a boat in the morning -specifically asking for the conical hats. Since no other tourist had apparently spent the night in this town, we had the boat to ourselves. In the afternoon we rented bicycles and randomly started biking. No plan, just me, my friend, the Mekong and its inhabitants. We stopped whenever we wanted, spent an hour hiding from the the rain with a cup of white coffee in a local farmer’s house and headed back when the sun started setting. We drank beer and ordered the old “we’ll have whatever they’re having”. With no tourists in town we were (sort of) part of the Mekong community for two days. That’s something you can’t say if you’re passing by on a touristy day trip.
getting lost around the Mekong (click to enlarge)
7. Berat, Albania
As Berat is listed as a UNESCO hertige site, people tend to just want to tick it off their ‘to do list’ and move on. For some, Berat is mere a day trip from Durres on the coast or from the capital Tirana.
city of a thousand windows
What you miss by making it a day trip
If you’ve been reading this blog, you already know Berat’s beauty made me weep and that it was one of my highlights in Albania. Spending the night in the city of a thousand windows allowed me to take it easy in this gorgeous town and savour its charm.
I met a traveller who had been to Berat right before me and told me she wasn’t impressed. Immediately whereafter she admitted only having spent two hours there and not have made it to the beautiful parts. Because it’s such a slow paced town, it’s best visited at a slow pace. Spending the night allows you to do just that and get in sync with the spirit of Berat.
having time to have a cup of coffee in this nice Albanian lady’s home
8. Ubud, Bali
Don’t be fooled by Ubud’s popularity for long and semi long stays, the town get a lot of day trippers. Big buses clog up the main streets and the day trippers come pouring in. The typical day trip consists of hitting the Monkey Forest, doing some shopping in the main street, having an ice cream or perhaps lunch, then heading to a surrounding temple or viewpoint before returning to the coast.
the ‘oh so popular’ Monkey Forest
What you miss by making it a day trip
You’ll miss the plethora of incredible little restaurants tucked away in surrounding streets and the calm in the rice fields you find just outside the city centre… On a day trip, you’ll only have enough time to hit the main street which is not Ubud’s best asset. For that reason most the day trippers I have spoken with, found Ubud to be too crowded, too commercial and not authentic at all. Yes, that’s because they were in the wrong area during day tripper peak moment (between 10AM and 4PM). Spend the night -or even better, several nights- and you’ll see a completely different face of the town. A much prettier, more genuine and serener one. And please, forget about the Monkey Forest.
you will not find the cool, tranquil spots when coming to Ubud for the day
9. Petra, Jordan
Either from Amman in Jordan or Eilat in Israel, day trippers drive to Petra, spend a few hours exploring the main passageways then return to their hubs or set their journeys onwards.
entering Petra
What you miss by making it a day trip
After spending an entire day exploring Petra, getting lost in majestic caves and climbing the pink rock formations we were happy to casually hang around the site and spend some time with bedouins who had their tents set up near Petra. They offered us tea, played music around a small fire while the sun was disappearing behind the horizon. They shared tales about their families who have been living in the area for centuries. Later, a dinner fit for kings was prepared for us, just down the road from Petra.
On some nights, Petra opens its doors to present a candlelit version of itself. You may not want to dish up the extra cash for the candlelight show, but sleeping in the arid desert area surrounding Petra and meeting the inhabitants is an experience you don’t want to miss out on.
meeting the people, sharing food (click to enlarge)
Have you ever regretted a day trip because it should have been an overnight trip? Where was it?
I wasn’t sure what “on a budget” in Albania would mean exactly. Would my daily lunches consist of a raw cucumber from the market? Would I be forced to skip the bus fee in order to save a few bucks? Would I be sleeping in dirty dungeons, sharing bathrooms with 10 other people?
None of that was the case, especially not the latter. I stayed in a few memorable and great value spots in Albania that I’ve been recommending to fellow travellers. So why not share them on this platform too?!
One of the important contributors of my mind blowing stay in the Albanian Alps was definitely the Rilinja guesthouse. I was sold the minute I laid eyes on the quaint chalet in the woods.
easy to find
What’s so awesome about it: your own balconied room in a chalet amidst the glorious forest trees, offering views over the mountains and a fast streaming river. Or the crackling fire warming up the reception/restaurant welcoming you after a strenuous hike. The restaurant, located right beneath your room boasting a menu full of delicious Northern Albanian specialities -I happened to have tried almost everything on the menu and I can say with confidence, all the dishes are very tasty.
scrumptious dinner and wine with new friends – click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– the most beautiful hiking trails start near the guesthouse- maps can be provided
one of the hikes starting from the guesthouse
– they serve an excellent home brewed red, which comes in very copious amounts
– the restaurant/reception is a fantastic place to meet and socialise with other travellers.
Extra info: keep in mind that the rooms are small and their walls are paper thin. But in such a beautiful environment, you’ll be out and about all day, using your room only to crash exhaustedly at night.
your back yard
Rates start at €30 for a double including a huge breakfast. Share the room with a travel mate and you’ve got yourself a great budget deal! Prices are lower during the winter. Camping spots are available for €2. Do make a reservation through their website, especially during the weekend as the place can get packed with local tourists.
Florian’s guesthouse and it’s orchards – click to enlarge
On your way to Valbona, you’ll probably have to make an overnight stop in Shkodër, that is if you’re taking the scenic route there. It’s a small town that has a few charms and can be wandered around in a day, two at the most. But it was Florian’s guesthouse that made Shkodër memorable to me.
What’s so awesome about it: the guesthouse is out of town so you will get a bicycle (for free) to ride to the centre. That 5-6 minute ride on the Albanian streets in itself, is an adventure you will not forget. You’ll be eating organic, with produce coming right out of the back yard, straight onto your plate. You can even pick some of the veggies yourself, if you like. It’s the place to be for an authentic Albanian family experience: having “family” dinners with the hosts and other guests while surrounded by orchards and countryside peace. You’ll drink home made wine and rakia while sharing travel tales and have the opportunity to learn about Albania’s past and present through the fascinating stories of your host.
at the dinner table, clockwise: organic home made wine, birthday cake and rakia for desert, dining on home grown produce, veggie soup- click to enlarge
Bonus points:
– fun loving, warm and welcoming host Florian
– free use of bicycles
– full board option for €4 extra. Home made wine included!
laughing, toasting, drinking in true Albanian style
Extra info: the dorm is nothing to write home about, but it’s the cosy atmosphere and that pureness of rural Albania that will make your stay unforgettable.
Countryside scenes right outside your doorstep
Rates start at €11 per person including breakfast. Add €4 and you get lunch, dinner and wine. How’s that for good value?!
adding my pick of the day to my breakfast- click to enlarge
I loved Berat’s charm so much, it brought tears to my eyes. Spending hours breaking a sweat going up and down the cobbled streets, I was happy to end the day in relaxed atmosphere with a cool beer and friendly conversation at the Berat Backpackers hostel.
clean spacious dorm with beautiful views
What’s so awesome about it: a gorgeously renewed Berat style historical house. You won’t just be visiting Berat, but really living in it. A relaxed atmosphere lending itself perfectly for socialising with guests and staff in the hip communal living room or sitting quietly in the courtyard reading a book while plump pomegranates fall from the trees as they ripen.
Bonus points:
– right in the middle of one of the historical centres
view outside the hostel
– option to have a communal dinner in the hostel
– come at the right time and you might be able to help turn the grape/fruit harvest into wine/jams… the traditional way.
the traditional way… Photo by Berat Backpackers
Extra info: I stayed at the hostel during low season so it was very quiet. During the summertime however, it’s very animated. Note that Berat Backpackers is closed during the winter (December 1st 2014- March 15th 2015). Rates start at €6 for camping, €10 for a dorm bed in low season (€12 in high season) and € 12 per person for a private double.
All three of these guesthouses added that extra magic to my Albania travel. If you happen to travel that way, I strongly recommend you checking them out.
Which one would have your fancy? What kind of accommodation do you prefer? Hotels or guesthouses/hostels?
Weeping in the name of overwhelming charm and beauty is a thing, right? Well it was for me: I definitely had to hold back a tear or two. They might have been tears of general happiness in combination with the setting I was walking around in. Berat was deserted as the tourist season had completely ended. It was the best autumn weather you can imagine; warm, sunny and slightly golden.
As I was walking through Berat’s narrow UNESCO protected alleys, I thought of this incredible solo trip I was undertaking. I had stumbled from one unexpected beauty onto the next. A certain peace came over me, I knew this was the end of an era. I knew this was the closing of my 20’s, even though that chapter wasn’t officially over 6 months from then. I smiled. I thought about everything I had done during the past decade: the people I had met, the unique place I had visited… No regrets, well maybe just a few. But I’m getting into another story here. Back to Berat. Loved it. Undoubtedly a place to put on your radar.
It’s quite a low key town, so you won’t have that pressure to tick off must see items. The best way to explore is just by wandering the streets.
the old townbroad sidewalks fringed with cafés and local fast food jointsleisurely walks all dayfishing
During the day you meet children at play, grandmothers carrying big baskets of fresh produce, grazing donkeys, fruits sellers and the odd bystander who curiously asks why you came to Albania and, of course, if you like the country. Though people don’t speak much English, the younger generation loves to practice the few key phrases they’ve been learning at school. When it comes to slightly older Albanians, you have a better chance at communicating in Italian or German.
fruit selling with a viewhide and seekdonkey on the way home
A relatively easy hike to the top of the town’s hill will bring you to the castle overlooking Berat. Inside the castle is an entire neighbourhood called Kalasa. Imagine white washed stone houses with pretty flowery yards and fruit orchards, old ladies selling bobbin lace and home made jams from seasonal organic fruit… So pure.
Get lost in the picturesque streets and at one point or another, you will find yourself on the top of the hill, by the ruins of the Inner Fortress. That’s where you take in the magnificent views over Berat and its surroundings. A stop in the tiny Onufri museum is worth the €2 if there aren’t many other visitors.
walking in Kalasaview from the top
Don’t forget to take lots of breaks to replenish with some Albanian coffee and delicious food. I was invited several times by locals for a coffee at their house. Free coffee with a moral obligation to at least buy some sweet home made jam.
just paint “Kafe” on the side of your house et voilà…my hostess carefully brewing me a cupthick strong coffee and jams, what else do you need?exquisite stuffed eggplant at Mangalemi restaurant
Each time I’d head back to my hostel, I’d stop by the fruit stand to contribute (a little) to the local economy by buying some pomegranates and apples. Dirt cheap and incredibly juicy, how could you resist?!
daily dose of vitamins
I don’t know what Berat looks like in summer (probably full of tourists) but I do know that October was a perfect time of the year to visit. The “Town of a Thousand Windows”, what an enchanting place.
I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.
I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…
JANUARY…
SULAWESI- INDONESIA
I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.
Torajan funeraltarsier
MALAYSIA
As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.
proud devoteefor the sake of devotionthe end of the pilgrimage
FEBRUARY…
BALI
As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…
last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)
MARCH…
HONG KONG
A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!
visiting Chinese templesorder after order of new flavours
MACAU
During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.
wide sunny boulevardsgamble paradise
APRIL…
BELGIUM
Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.
deliciously gross Belgian farea long time since I last saw spring
MAY…
ITALY
By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.
the red city seen from aboveincredible food and wine in Bologna
JULY-AUGUST…
DRC
Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!
It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.
Congo’s stunning naturesafety firstkids in the villagecrossing the Congo-Nile
UGANDA
On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.
buying goat brochettes from the bus windowLake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele
RWANDA
Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.
sunset in Gisenyi
SEPTEMBER…
FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS
To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.
catching up in front of an old country houseclog bootsold fashioned fun
OCTOBER…
MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO
Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.
As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.
kids in Beirat, Albania
GREECE
I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.
Athens by nightwine tasting in the country side
NOVEMBER…
IRAN
Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!
Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.
inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahanfarmer in Kashanout of this world rooftops
DECEMBER…
ECUADOR
The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.
What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…
on the look out for a new life in Ecuador
How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?
The journey started in pitch darkness on the side of an Albanian dirt road. Luckily, I wasn’t alone; I was in company of a new friend I had met in a hostel. The owner of our guest house in Shkoder had promised a bus would make a detour to pick us up and drop us at the ferry docks. “Just stand by the side of the road around 6 AM”, he had told us the night before, “it’ll pass by”. So there we stood, no bus stop in sight and no other people around, hoping the driver hadn’t forgotten about us. The bus turned up 20 minutes late, just when we were about to give up the wait.
We arrived in Fierze after a few hours of zigzagging up and down the mountains, stopping for coffee and rakija (yes, at 7AM… apparently, it’s the normal thing to do in Albania) and listening to the local passengers have heated discussions about Serbia -that’s as little as my Albanian language skills allowed me to know. Once there, we embarked on a small boat taking us over the majestic Lake Koman, which according to the Bradt guide, is “one of the great boat trips of the world”. Despite the somewhat gloomy weather that morning, I can’t say I disagree.
Lake Koman, gorgeous despite the grey skies
The last leg of the journey was a short overland haul with 5 other travellers who had also found their ways to this lesser known part of Europe. After an 8 hour jaunt, we finally approached our final destination; the mountain village of Valbona. I had heard it was ravishing, but I wasn’t expecting to get completely taken aback by its beauty and serenity.
arriving in Valbona
After checking into my room, I took a brisk walk through the fall foliage to visit the town which is only a few houses large. I was smitten.
the restaurant and guesthouseexploring the areameeting the cows in Valbona village
My days in Valbona were all about breathing in some fresh air and getting close and personal with nature.
Valbona, where getting out of bed is exciting
There are plenty of hikes you can undertake in Valbona. From strenuous, overnight treks to hikes for ‘beginners’ lasting only an hour. Short in time for an overnight trek, I chose to do a 3 hour hike (one way), one that I am not likely to forget. I was out in the Albanian Alps all by myself, finding my way to the top through flower filled pastures, passing by cows grazing freely, picking sweet wild grapes, all the while smiling to myself thinking “how is this real?”.
horses along the way
I arrived at a house/farm where an Albanian family was running their usual chores. Chopping wood, making cheese, cooking, taking care of the animals… I was invited inside for some tea and accepted to share the meal the hostess was preparing. She showed me around the property and I dipped my toes in the world of cheese making- with freshly squeezed milk of course. An American family happened to pass by and ended up joining the fun. We roasted and peeled chestnuts side by side and enjoyed a “family dinner” together.
the farm in the mountainsmaking cheesetea, nuts and wild grapeschopping wood and roasting chestnutspeeling chestnutsfamily meal
The evenings in Valbona were all about feasting on home cooked meals and having conversations with the other travellers by the crackling fireplace. The home made wine would flow while our laughter would fill up the cosy wooden chalet.
satisfied
Spending a few days in Valbona was definitely a highlight of my trip to Albania. If you’re ever in the neighbourhood, I highly recommend you undertake the long but beautiful journey to Valbona.
I stayed in the Rilindja Alpine Rooms with rates from €20 (single) to €30 (double). You can just as well stay in a more expensive deluxe room or in a simple dorm. For more information on the region, hikes, sleeping facilities and activities, check out the ‘journey to Valbona’ website which has very detailed information covering everything you need to know.
