Category: Vietnam

  • 9 Day Trips you should Never Take

    9 Day Trips you should Never Take

    … Because they should be overnight trips!

     

    Day trips… they’re convenient when you want to see as much of a region as possible in a short amount of time. However, there are quite a lot of these convenient trips that really don’t do the place justice. You find yourself with hundreds if not thousands of day trippers, packed in the same shops and highlighted areas, you miss the perfect lighting for incredible photo’s at dusk or dawn and most importantly, you by-pass the soul of that place.

    It happened to me a few times while other on other occasions I saw it happening to others. I’ve put together a list of places where I’ve either been bummed out not to have spent the night or have been extremely happy not to be part of the day tripper groups visiting the town.

     

    1. Bhaktapur, Nepal

    Often done as quick side trip from Kathmandu, most visitors only get a glimpse of the cultural gem of Bhaktapur. A day trip here will allow you to spend a few hours in the central area, have lunch in a reputed restaurants’ and shop in one of the many little kiosks surrounding the main square. It’s a small city swarming with monuments, religious shrines, gilded roofs and palaces with elaborate carvings which you could explore in just a day. However…

    Bhaktapur, Nepal, momuments
    Bhaktapur is like and open air museum only it’s not staged

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    The essence of Bhaktapur is only to be experienced at sunrise. That’s when the people change Bhaktapur into a magical place. Women and children step out of their houses with platters full of offerings and start their rounds for the gods. They stop at every shrine and every corner of spiritual importance to bring an offering, say a prayer and conduct complex rituals which you, as an outsider, couldn’t possibly wrap your mind around. The smell of incense fills up the crisp morning air while the weak sun rays highlight some of Bhaktapur’s finest art.

    Bhaktapur, Nepal

    As I mentioned before, Bhaktapur is one of my 12 favourite destinations of all times and the mornings are exactly what made this place more memorable and alluring than others. Coming here on a day trip would mean missing the morning’s enchantment, when the tourists are still in bed in Kathmandu and the town is the playground of the people and their gods.

    Bhaktapur, Nepal, offerings
    morning offerings

     

    2. Guatape, Colombia

    I visited Guatape as a day trip from Medellin by public transport. About halfway through the day, I kicked myself in the head for not being able to spend the night in this extremely colourful town.

    Guatape
    Guatape

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    Though Guatape is very small and you definitely could see everything in just a few hours, what I missed was the great lighting you would find early in the morning and in the evenings. Even if you’re not into photography, you’ll probably want to extensively photograph Guatape. It might be the cutest, most colourful town I’ve ever seen. The bright sunlight during the day makes it tough to capture all the details without harsh shadows overcasting the scenes. We noticed the town turning even more stunning as the late afternoon sun set in. Unfortunately, that was also our cue to head back since we didn’t want to arrive at the Medellin bus terminal at night. Dinner and a cool beer at sunset would have been the way to end the day in Guatape.

    wishing we could capture the town during sunset
    wishing we could captured the town during sunset

    3. Bethlehem, West Bank

    Busloads of tourists coming from Jerusalem,Israel swarm the central square of Bethlehem in Palestine every day. The tours take care of the border crossing, a visit to the historical/religious sanctuaries and safely return the tourists back to Israel after having visited the supposed birthplace of Jezus Christ. Although I understand the importance for many to visit a place of such significance, there is much more to Bethlem/Palestine…

    wall-with-watch-tower
    the wall separating Israel and West-Bank

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    By staying in Bethlehem we were able to visit (and spent a few nights in) a refugee camp, talk to the people of Palestine, get into the current culture, broaden our knowledge on the complex situation… Missing these experiences is missing the point of going to Bethlehem. If you want to see where Jezus was born, shouldn’t you see and experience the place it is today as well? My stay in Palestine was eye-opening on so many levels, I could only feel regret for the people who were missing out on the enrichment by only being exposed to a particular church and shrines. If you want to know more about travel in West Bank, read my post to find out what’s in Palestine.

     West bank, Palestine Tourism
    kids at school in refugee camp, the market, Douglas getting a shave, Palestinian specialties, having mint tea on the street in Bethlehem (click to enlarge)

     

    4. Pamukkale, Turkey

    The cotton castle of Turkey, usually visited as part of a day trip from resorts on the Turkish Riviera. I was surprised to see hundreds of tourists on the site but only a handful of hotels in the town; hello day trippers.

    Pamukkale, Turkey, cotton castle
    Pamukkale

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    Stay the night in the town of Pamukkale and you’ll have the otherwise overrun by tourist cotton castle all to yourself at the crack of dawn. I was the first person to enter the site that day and had teary eyes when I was confronted with the natural beauty and serenity of Pamukkale. I hopped barefooted from one white rock formation to the next, laughing like a child. It was as though I had found a hidden treasure.

    Pamukkale, Turkey, cotton castle
    arriving at the cotton castle at sunrise

     

    Half an hour after my treasure discovery came the first round of day trippers: the Koreans. While they were very respectful of the site and taking their time to look around, I could already feel a change in atmosphere. By the time the buses of Russians took the relay, the serenity was over. People were more interested in snapping themselves looking sexy than in the site. Beers were consumed, hamburgers and ice creams were spilt and what was a place of wonder just a few hours before, turned into a what resembled a crowed outdoors public swimming pool on a hot summer weekend.

    I stayed until closing time but the serenity never returned. I understood it could only be there after the site had spent a night recovering from the assault of mass tourism. When I overheard some day trippers complaining about what a tourist trap Pamukkale is, I knew I had made the right move by spending the night and being the first visitor in the morning.

    Photo shooting... Quite amusing to watch, but happy that was not ALL I got to see of Pamukkale
    Photo shooting… Quite amusing to watch, but happy that was not ALL I got to see of Pamukkale (click to enlarge)

     

    5. Scottish Highlands, Scotland

    What was I thinking, booking a day trip from Edinburgh to The Scottish Highlands?! It seemed to be the only way to visit this area during my short stay in Scotland. Boy, did I regret that decision.

    Scottish highlands
    landscape that calls for a hike

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    As we were driving by the hills that changed colours as the clouds shifted, all I wanted to do was to get out of the van and start walking amongst them. But I couldn’t, we were on a tight schedule. Damn these day trips. So what you miss is basically everything. Yes, I saw Loch Ness and yes, I had a delicious meal (haggis, what else) in one of those typical Scottish pubs but I didn’t get to spend the night in a rustic B&B or a local sheep farm. Nor was I getting my hiking boots dirty or drinking whisky with Scotsmen. By trying to see too much too fast, I missed most of what the Scottish highlands have to offer.

    Loch Ness in the rain, in a hurry
    Loch Ness in the rain, in a hurry

     

    6. Mekong Delta, Vietnam

    Most travellers wanting to visit the Mekong Delta book a day trip from Saigon. It usually consists of a boat ride down the Mekong (while wearing conical hats) with a few stops along the river banks showcasing “real life” around the Mekong. Sometimes the tours also provide bicycles which you ride along the river following your guide and the 20 other members of your group. After lunch and perhaps a few shots of snake-scorpion liquor, visitors are returned to the big city.

    Mekong Delta
    Mekong Delta (click to enlarge)

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    Making it an overnight trip gives you the freedom to do the same thing minus the groups and the tight schedule. Because guess what? “Real life” along the Mekong doesn’t run on a tight schedule.

    We took a public bus to one of the towns by the Mekong then locally booked a boat in the morning -specifically asking for the conical hats. Since no other tourist had apparently spent the night in this town, we had the boat to ourselves. In the afternoon we rented bicycles and randomly started biking. No plan, just me, my friend, the Mekong and its inhabitants. We stopped whenever we wanted, spent an hour hiding from the the rain with a cup of white coffee in a local farmer’s house and headed back when the sun started setting. We drank beer and ordered the old “we’ll have whatever they’re having”. With no tourists in town we were (sort of) part of the Mekong community for two days. That’s something you can’t say if you’re passing by on a touristy day trip.

    getting lost around the Mekong (click to enlarge)
    getting lost around the Mekong (click to enlarge)

     

    7. Berat, Albania

    As Berat is listed as a UNESCO hertige site, people tend to just want to tick it off their ‘to do list’ and move on. For some, Berat is mere a day trip from Durres on the coast or from the capital Tirana.

    Berat Albania
    city of a thousand windows

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    If you’ve been reading this blog, you already know Berat’s beauty made me weep and that it was one of my highlights in Albania. Spending the night in the city of a thousand windows allowed me to take it easy in this gorgeous town and savour its charm.

    I met a traveller who had been to Berat right before me and told me she wasn’t impressed. Immediately whereafter she admitted only having spent two hours there and not have made it to the beautiful parts. Because it’s such a slow paced town, it’s best visited at a slow pace. Spending the night allows you to do just that and get in sync with the spirit of Berat.

    coffee, Berat, Albania
    having time to have a cup of coffee in this nice Albanian lady’s home

     

    8. Ubud, Bali

    Don’t be fooled by Ubud’s popularity for long and semi long stays, the town get a lot of day trippers. Big buses clog up the main streets and the day trippers come pouring in. The typical day trip consists of hitting the Monkey Forest, doing some shopping in the main street, having an ice cream or perhaps lunch, then heading to a surrounding temple or viewpoint before returning to the coast.

    monkey forest Ubud Bali
    the ‘oh so popular’ Monkey Forest

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    You’ll miss the plethora of incredible little restaurants tucked away in surrounding streets and the calm in the rice fields you find just outside the city centre… On a day trip, you’ll only have enough time to hit the main street which is not Ubud’s best asset. For that reason most the day trippers I have spoken with, found Ubud to be too crowded, too commercial and not authentic at all. Yes, that’s because they were in the wrong area during day tripper peak moment (between 10AM and 4PM). Spend the night -or even better, several nights- and you’ll see a completely different face of the town. A much prettier, more genuine and serener one. And please, forget about the Monkey Forest.

    Bali hot springs
    you will not find the cool, tranquil spots when coming to Ubud for the day

     

    9. Petra, Jordan

    Either from Amman in Jordan or Eilat in Israel, day trippers drive to Petra, spend a few hours exploring the main passageways then return to their hubs or set their journeys onwards.

    entering Petra
    entering Petra

     

    What you miss by making it a day trip

    After spending an entire day exploring Petra, getting lost in majestic caves and climbing the pink rock formations we were happy to casually hang around the site and spend some time with bedouins who had their tents set up near Petra. They offered us tea, played music around a small fire while the sun was disappearing behind the horizon. They shared tales about their families who have been living in the area for centuries. Later, a dinner fit for kings was prepared for us, just down the road from Petra.

    On some nights, Petra opens its doors to present a candlelit version of itself. You may not want to dish up the extra cash for the candlelight show, but sleeping in the arid desert area surrounding Petra and meeting the inhabitants is an experience you don’t want to miss out on.

    meeting people Petra Jordan
    meeting the people, sharing food (click to enlarge)

    Have you ever regretted a day trip because it should have been an overnight trip? Where was it?

    The post “9 day trips you should never take“, first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • 2013 Travel Summary, Part II

    2013 Travel Summary, Part II

    Resuming the travel summary of 2013, the nomadic year… Read part I here.

     

    JULY… Timor-Leste- Gili islands

    If you have to leave Bali for a few days, where do you go? Ummm… Timor-Leste? Why not… Practical information online about Timor-Leste is scarce, so I left without any expectations. That might be why I loved it so much. If not because I have a tendency towards raw and unknown places. I enjoyed the fact that it was a trip for “advanced” travellers , I had plenty of new experiences- like eating dog and I met some awesome people. Another destination on my top 10 best trips-list!

    stunning landscapes
    stunning landscapes
    the Timorese
    socialising with the Timorese

    Gili islands

    Douglas and I took a few days off to meet-up with friends from England vacationing in the Gili islands. I made it a point to visit all three of the islands so I could compare and decide which one to choose for future trips! Read about my findings here. We spent lazy days on the beach, eating freshly caught fish, drinking beers and snorkelling with turtles. It was the ideal lazy beach holiday.

    lazy days
    lazy days
    happy island kids
    happy island kids

     

    AUGUST… Borneo

    I spent the last week of August in Sabah, Borneo. You might not believe it, but traveling around so much can get quite tiring. So I did what any burnt out traveler would do; I traveled lazily! I got massages, relaxed at white sand beaches, ate tonnes of fresh seafood, did mountain hikes, saw orang utans in the wild… Finally, I visited a refugee village on stilts, but that story deserves its own post. By the end of my stay in Kota Kinabalu, I had gotten quite a attached to the place. A place which seemed incredibly bland at first glance.

    village on stilts
    village on stilts
    wild orang utang
    wild orang utang

     

    SEPTEMBER… The Philippines

    I had a travel dream. It took me 13 years to make it happen, but at last… I went to the Philippines… and I was not disappointed. I spent most of my time there in Palawan. Every single day, my dear Douglas had to listen to me say: “Look at this!! How is this possible?? I can’t believe this beauty is real?!”

    el nido
    island hopping
    jeepney
    driving in the country side

    The Philippines are really close to my heart, not only because I loved everything about this flavourful country; the good, the bad and the ugly. But also because of my Pinoy friends who have shown me the true spirit of the Philipino community. If you’ve missed my posts resuming our vacation in Palawan, check out part I and part II.

    paradise beach
    paradise beaches

     

    Oh yes… and Manila is absolutely wacky!

     

    OCTOBER… Home sweet home, Bali

    Peace and quiet in Bali. For the first time in months I spent a full 4 weeks in the same spot. I used this time to explore the island further. I went on diving and snorkelling trips with friends in Lembongan and swam with graciously beautiful wild manta rays. I started practicing yoga and participated in a writing workshop during the Ubud writers festival. I woke up at the crack of dawn to visit Balinese temples minus the tourists. I wanted to learn Indonesian, so I enrolled in a class and finished the course. Now, I’m not fluent, but I can hold my head up high while having a basic conversation. I also know a fair amount of obscene words. What more do you need?

    bali
    visiting temples
    galungan
    immersing ourselves in the culture

     

    NOVEMBER… Vietnam

    Once again I had to leave Indonesia. This time around, I visited South Vietnam on a quest to understand why so many visitors dislike it as a destination. Though I understand why, I only experienced rainbows, sparkles and chocolate covered kittens. I was taken aback by a fragrant cuisine that was new to me. Vietnamese food… WOW! Read about my trip here.

    Mui Ne beach
    Mui Ne beach front
    Vietnamese food
    Vietnamese food

    DECEMBER… Sulawesi

    I’m writing you from Sulawesi, Indonesia where a couple of friends and I will be celebrating the end of a fantastic year and welcoming a new one. Hopefully a new year filled with laughter, friendship, love, adventure and realisation of goals and dreams. Those are my wishes or you.

     

    Happy New Year, Everyone!

     

    What was the travel highlight of your year?

     

  • 8 Days in South Vietnam

    8 Days in South Vietnam

    My trip to Vietnam was somewhat of a failed mission. Over the past few years, I have heard so many negative stories about the country and the hospitality of its people. I had heard about absurd scams, aggressive vendors, rigged taxi meters…

    The large majority of Vietnam travelers I met, told me horror stories and/or found it the least likable country in Southeast Asia. Then I found out Vietnam had a returning rate of only  5% where as in Thailand for example, the returning rate is 50%.

    What gives? I wanted to experience this first hand, to understand. I was ready to face the madness and let my overly assertive alter ego scream back at anyone scolding me for not buying their goods. I wanted to scam the scammer. So I flew to Saigon, eyes wide open to spot the scams, claws out, ready to scratch back.

    So what did I find? Nothing of such sorts. I didn’t get scammed, mugged, scolded nor pushed into doing something against my will.

    What I found were friendly people who, as opposed to neighboring countries, do a lot less “ass kissing” towards the tourist. I found this attitude rather refreshing, much more natural.

    My “mission” didn’t fail entirely; the trip did allow me to get some insights on why so many people have negative experiences in Vietnam. But that should be a blog post on its own.

    Meanwhile, I had a “jolly good time” in South Vietnam.

     

    Here is how I spent my 8 days in South Vietnam

     

    Drinking Vietnamese white coffee

    Strong black coffee with condensed milk and ice. I wouldn’t normally go for it, but I had no idea what I was ordering. I guess I was just intrigued by the name. Wow! I was immediately hooked and had a least two white coffees a day, every day.

    white Vietnamese coffee
    white Vietnamese coffee, an intense pick-me up

     

    Strolling around the old quarter of Hoi An in the evening

    Brightly lit lanterns, motor free streets, wishing candles by the river… Even without a love interest around, the streets scream ‘romance’ and had me daydreaming the following days.

    lanterns vietnam
    lanterns
    Hoi An by night
    Hoi An by night

     

    Admiring colourful dilapidated walls

    It took my travel partner a short while to understand my fascination with these walls, but in the end she was enthusiastically pointing out these alluring walls to me. “Have you seen that one? What a beauty…”

     

    Contemplating a meal at every street corner

    It’s clear that Vietnamese love to eat and preferably do so on the streets. Every other corner, I was greeted by the mouthwatering smells of a steaming bowl of food. All I needed to do was grab one of the tiny chairs, join the locals and dig in. I tried to restrain myself as often as possible, but… They say you should have 5 meals a day, right?

    street stall, vietnam
    street stall
    street dining
    street dining
    puppies love street food
    puppies love street food

     

    Getting lost in Hoi An’s tiny streets

    Of course I didn’t have a map. And I loved it.

    narrow streets vietnam
    narrow streets

     

    Waking up at the crack of dawn to visit the hustle and bustle of the morning markets

    market vietnam
    surprising popularity of the conical hats
    fresh herbs vietnam market
    fresh herbs used royally in every dish
     duck market
    “I love the smell of duck and nicotine in the morning…”
    ducklings
    the one that got away

     

    Being in awe of the dramatic landscape changes

    From the mountainous greenery to flooded rice fields to quiet beaches to… Impressive sand dunes and red dirt! I couldn’t have suspected I was still in Vietnam. Unfortunately, the dunes were partially ruined by mass tourism. Standing among the tall yellow dunes could have been -and probably once was- a mind boggling experience. But the dozens of deafening quads zooming by killed the marvel. The dunes of Mui Né are still worth a visit though.

     coastal village vietnam
    from coastal villages…
    sand dunes vietnam
    …to sand dunes covered in quad tracks

     

    Discovering a new kind of stress free work ethic

    no stress
    no clients? no stress!
    fruit stall napping
    fruit stall napping
    taking a break from work
    taking a break from work
     hammock vietnam
    “I’ll be in my hammock, if you need anything”

     

    Exploring the Mekong delta by boat and by bicycle

    float on Mekong
    an easy float on the Mekong
    Mekong by bicycle
    Mekong by bicycle

     

    Indulging in Vietnamese cuisine in Saigon

    I met up with a “foodie friend” of mine who has been living in Saigon for ten years. She took me from one incredible restaurant to the next, sampling Vietnamese cuisine, one dish at the time. Vietnamese food was new to me and was an incredible revelation. It tickled my taste buds and I’m hungry for more.

    food Saigon
    food sampling in Saigon

     

    Downing shots of “cobra eats scorpion” liquor

    You read that right. Strong alcohol infused with a dead cobra and scorpion. To make the drink more spectacular, the scorpion’s tail is inserted into the cobra’s mouth. Way more impressive! It tasted like rotting fish eaten out of the stomach of an alcoholic. I paid a heavy price for my curiosity; hours on the loo with severe cramps.

    snake cobra infused liquor
    “cobra bites scorpion” infused liquor

     

    Having sandals custom made

    As it turns out, it’s not simple to chose a design, material and colour. Hats off to designers out there! After nervous contemplation I put together the elements resulting in some very cute sandals. The shoe maker drew around the soles of my feet and measured each foot individually. Fifteen dollars bought me a pair of sandals that fit me like a glove. However, with the shoe being made in only a couple of hours, I wasn’t surprised to get footwear of dubious quality.

    hoi an shopping
    existing models to chose from and customize

     

    Trying a new and exciting kind of “exotic meat”

    After my dog story in East-Timor, you might be aware of the fact that I love trying unusual foods. So when I got this new opportunity, I seized it with both hands. I must admit, I had doubts about this one, I even had to sleep on it. Once again, my curiosity got the better of me and I ordered a portion. It was simply delicious! What it was? I’ll tell you some day.

    the mystery meat
    the mystery meat

     

    Have you been to Vietnam? Is it on your bucket list?

     The post “8 days in South Vietnam” first appeared on Travel Cake.