While preparing for my solo trip to Timor Leste, I noticed there was barley any online information on tourism and travel in East Timor. Though I was desperately hoping to find some inspiration from other travellers to prepare my journey, I found it exhilarating not to be in the know. I had no expectations and let everything surprise me.
Since those fruitless google searches, I’ve told myself I’d share everything I could about my travel experiences in East Timor. It’s a destination that deserves some more attention and that is worth a visit. I’ve already written an article on how travelling in East Timor can be quite challenging. I’ve also shared my bizarre culinary experience in Timor Leste, but since it’s not a cookie-cutter destination, you may need some visual information to help you take the plunge.
East Timor is a great stop over for a seasoned traveler looking for a little edge
Though I’m far from being an expert on East Timor and the issues the country is facing, I found it to be a particularly interesting travel destination. One that doesn’t just inspire “ooh’s and ahh’s” but rather makes you question global politics and forces you to reflect on human nature. Traveling in East Timor was a reality check reminding me of the basics in travel as well as the basics in life. I know, that sounds like pretty heavy shizzle for a weeklong stint but then again, isn’t that the whole point of travel?
As heavy hearted or challenging as travel in East Timor can be, there is plenty of light and colour waiting to be discovered.
Here is travel in East Timor in a few of my favourite snaps
Cristo rei, a giant statue of Jesus Christ standing on a globe overlooking Dili’s bay. Ascend the hill for some mild exercise and a face to face with JC.
The view from Cristo Rei is worth the climb. Cape Fatucama (pictured below) offers white sand beach and clear waters.
Cruising by Dili’s seafront.
Making friends with local beachgoers while hanging out at the beaches just outside the centre,
The market, as always, one of the most colourful spots to pick up the local vibe.
At times, the people in East Timor may seem a little grumpy but once you connect with them, the facade drops and magic happens.
A day trip from Dili or overnight stint to Atauro island flashes you to another era. Back to basics. It’s also a superb scuba diving location.
On the road to Maubisse we traversed winding roads over steep hills dotted with coffee plantations.
The centre of Maubisse has a certain charm to it. Why, I can’t quite put a finger on.
Colour and creativity are features I appreciate in my means of transport.
A local sunset beach activity: foraging shellfish at low tide.
Have you travelled to a destination you knew next to nothing about? Where was it?
It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.
I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”
“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.
In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.
With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.
While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…
So in no Particular order
1. Oman
I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.
wadi perfect for a dip
2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London
I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.
some amazing food in the area
3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali
This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic
rice fields around Ubud
4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe
As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.
sunset over the Zambezi
5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland
The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.
somewhere along the way
6. Living the island life in Zanzibar
I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.
Zanzibari fishing village
7. Morocco
Every time I go to MoroccoI’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.
Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou
8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste
It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventurethat made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.
coastline in Dili
9. Hiking Dominica
Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.
every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island
10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel
Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.
quiet streets of the old city
11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela
Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.
Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean
12. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!
Bhaktapur in the morning light
I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.
I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.
Resuming the travel summary of 2013, the nomadic year… Read part I here.
JULY… Timor-Leste- Gili islands
If you have to leave Bali for a few days, where do you go? Ummm… Timor-Leste? Why not… Practical information online about Timor-Leste is scarce, so I left without any expectations. That might be why I loved it so much. If not because I have a tendency towards raw and unknown places. I enjoyed the fact that it was a trip for “advanced” travellers , I had plenty of new experiences- like eating dog and I met some awesome people. Another destination on my top 10 best trips-list!
stunning landscapessocialising with the Timorese
Gili islands
Douglas and I took a few days off to meet-up with friends from England vacationing in the Gili islands. I made it a point to visit all three of the islands so I could compare and decide which one to choose for future trips! Read about my findings here. We spent lazy days on the beach, eating freshly caught fish, drinking beers and snorkelling with turtles. It was the ideal lazy beach holiday.
lazy dayshappy island kids
AUGUST… Borneo
I spent the last week of August in Sabah, Borneo. You might not believe it, but traveling around so much can get quite tiring. So I did what any burnt out traveler would do; I traveled lazily! I got massages, relaxed at white sand beaches, ate tonnes of fresh seafood, did mountain hikes, saw orang utans in the wild… Finally, I visited a refugee village on stilts, but that story deserves its own post. By the end of my stay in Kota Kinabalu, I had gotten quite a attached to the place. A place which seemed incredibly bland at first glance.
village on stiltswild orang utang
SEPTEMBER… The Philippines
I had a travel dream. It took me 13 years to make it happen, but at last… I went to the Philippines… and I was not disappointed. I spent most of my time there in Palawan. Every single day, my dear Douglas had to listen to me say: “Look at this!! How is this possible?? I can’t believe this beauty is real?!”
island hoppingdriving in the country side
The Philippines are really close to my heart, not only because I loved everything about this flavourful country; the good, the bad and the ugly. But also because of my Pinoy friends who have shown me the true spirit of the Philipino community. If you’ve missed my posts resuming our vacation in Palawan, check out part Iand part II.
Peace and quiet in Bali. For the first time in months I spent a full 4 weeks in the same spot. I used this time to explore the island further. I went on diving and snorkelling trips with friends in Lembongan and swam with graciously beautiful wild manta rays. I started practicing yoga and participated in a writing workshop during the Ubud writers festival. I woke up at the crack of dawn to visit Balinese temples minus the tourists. I wanted to learn Indonesian, so I enrolled in a class and finished the course. Now, I’m not fluent, but I can hold my head up high while having a basic conversation. I also know a fair amount of obscene words. What more do you need?
visiting templesimmersing ourselves in the culture
NOVEMBER… Vietnam
Once again I had to leave Indonesia. This time around, I visited South Vietnam on a quest to understand why so many visitors dislike it as a destination. Though I understand why, I only experienced rainbows, sparkles and chocolate covered kittens. I was taken aback by a fragrant cuisine that was new to me. Vietnamese food… WOW! Read about my trip here.
Mui Ne beach frontVietnamese food
DECEMBER… Sulawesi
I’m writing you from Sulawesi, Indonesia where a couple of friends and I will be celebrating the end of a fantastic year and welcoming a new one. Hopefully a new year filled with laughter, friendship, love, adventure and realisation of goals and dreams. Those are my wishes or you.
It was no mistake, but a conscious choice I made under the motto: don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!
There I sat, in the hostels’ common room, chatting away with all the interesting travellers who were exploring a relatively unknown destination: East-Timor.
As we discussed our experiences in the country so far, a new found friend mentioned he had stumbled upon a canteen that served dog meat. I was intrigued! Especially when the Chinese girl sitting across me affirmed that it was a must-try dish! She described vividly how good dog meat tastes and how it’s served in the form of pudding in China. Wide-eyed, I listened and grew more and more curious. I’m the type of person who will try any food once -maggots and cockroaches being the only exceptions. I felt compelled to try it. I wasn’t likely to ever order it off a menu but now the opportunity laid right in front of me… slow cooked in a red and green chili sauce, just waiting to be eaten.
Hey, don’t judge…
slow cooked in red and geen chili
Maybe a little bit of background first. East Timor – officially Timor Leste– underwent a long and painful bloody invasion that only ended 16 years ago. The country suffered from famine during the long lasting war and people were left with no option but to eat anything edible they could lay hands on, such as dogs.
Once the situation improved, people had gotten accustomed to the taste of dog meat and truly enjoyed it. We spoke with a local Timorese who explained that even though they would see the dogs eating the human corpses lying on the street, they’d still choose eat the dogs. Partly out of necessity and partly because they liked meat.
first bite is the hardest?
Since 2002, Timor-Leste is recognised by the UN as an independent country and things have been looking up. Even though the economic situation is still deplorable, dog meat is no longer a necessity. Yet, many Timorese still enjoy a good serving of dog while others refuse to consume it, as it reminds them of bad times…
Timor-Leste is a catholic country where a significant amount of muslims reside; Indonesians, Indians, expats and locals. Since dog is ‘haram’ in islamic culture, the Timorese keep the dog meat (RW) in a separate cabinet, so it wouldn’t ‘contaminate’ the rest of the food.
know your meats… “RW” is no chicken!
Anyways… I ate dog stew. How was it?
The sauce was delightful; it had a nice little kick to it but overpowered the gamey flavour of the meat, which was tough and chewy. Its texture was comparable to that of an old piece of beef you find at the bottom of your freezer. This wasn’t a beautifully cut steak I got, just some random squares of meat, consisting mostly fat and skin… I wanted to be brave and I didn’t want to waste food, but… I couldn’t finish my plate. With every bite, I couldn’t help but picture myself nibbling on one of those scabby streets dogs. So, I put down my fork and drank a litre of water. I’ve tried it and now know for sure; I do not like dog meat.
When I told my friends I was traveling to East Timor, most of them had no idea where it was. Some had never even heard of this country. Understandably, since it has only been an independent country for 11 years. Find out more about it here. The country is located in Southeast Asia, but most SEA travellers skip this destination. Of course, that meant I had to go check it out. There was very little travel information to be found online, so I arrived there with little expectations.
I quickly discovered that East Timor is not a travel destination for everyone. If you’re looking for a cheap and easy Southeast Asia experience, this country is absolutely not for you. Or at least, not yet.
Timor-Leste
East Timor is expensive for a traveler.
At least if you compare to its neighbouring countries. The room rates start at $25 for a very basic, dilapidated double room. There is one backpackers place in the capital Dili, where you’ll pay 12$ for a dorm bed. Again, I’m not talking about fancy dorms…
For food in Dili, you can eat at ‘local canteen style eateries‘ and pay 2-3$ for a full plate of meat/fish, rice and vegetables. Expect 4-5$ at a cheap Indian joint. Go to a basic western looking restaurant and your prices will range from 5$ for a sandwich to 12$ for a fish dish. That’s more than double what you’d pay in Indonesia!
Conclusion: you can economise on food if you want, especially once out of Dili where western restaurants become scarce. However, accommodation will take a big bite out of your budget unless you stay put in Dili. Which brings me to my next point…
It’s hard to get around the country.
There are several towns that have semi-good connections by public transport. There are some ferries and busses/trucks. If you want to get anywhere beyond these places you either need a car (which can be difficult to drive since the roads are in such bad condition) or you need a suitcase full of money. Let me give you an example. Four of us were traveling to a town called “Maubisse”. It took us over 4 hours to drive 70 km. Once there two of the travellers decided to go to the next village so they could climb Mt. Ramelau, the country’s highest peak. This village was located 20km away. The journey took them almost three hours and cost 50$ each, traveling on the back of local motorbikes which broke down every half hour.
Timor-Leste is a small country but you need a lot of time and patience to get around it.
>3 HOUR FERRY TO ATAURO ISLAND (10$ RETURN)not so comfy ride to Maubisse
There’s quasi no tourist infrastructure.
Sure, there are a few dive centres in Dili, some restaurants offering good food, bars with live music during the weekends, a couple of club and a few emerging tour companies, but once you leave the capital, you’re pretty much on your own.
Particularly for a woman traveling solo, it definitely felt that way. Even as an experienced traveler, if I may call myself that, who has been in war zones and post-conflict areas several times, I was set on not traveling around the country all by myself as it felt quite uncomfortable. Therefore I traveled with at least one companion and encountered no problem whatsoever.
There is a huge language barrier.
Although English is one of the official languages, most people don’t speak it nor do they understand it. Same goes with Portuguese. In fact, the locals are quite annoyed saying: “we don’t understand why Portuguese tourists come here and speak to us in Portuguese expecting us to understand what they’re saying. They think we still know their language but the colonial days are long gone…”
If you know some Bahasa Indonesian, you won’t have a problem communicating, as it is the language Timorese are taught in school. Tetum and other indigenous languages are widely spoken, but I assume those are probably not in your language repertoire.
trying to arrange transport without words
That being said,
I LOVED EAST TIMOR
And I loved travelling there. It’s a beautiful destination. Very real, very rough.
Just like the other travellers you’ll meet in your backpackers hostel. You don’t hear the classic “I’m taking x months off to do a RTW/SEA trip” or “I’m on a two week holiday”. Here you meet travellers doing internships for NGO’s, people doing freelance work translating for Chinese business men, people hitchhiking through the Middle East, Africa and Asia for an indefinite amount of time, people with an impressive list of ‘off the beaten track’ destinations like Socotra (Yemen), Albania and Pakistan.
The country and its inhabitants keep on surprising you; the religion, the culture, the people, the landscape… I’ll be posting an entry on that soon.
I’ve made it a point to return to East Timor and use the knowledge I have acquired to discover the country in a more thorough manner AND scuba dive. Can’t wait to watch one of thee amazing sunsets again!
the sun sets over Dili
Had you ever heard of East Timor? Do you like traveling to “difficult” places?
