Category: Malaysia

  • 2014 Travel Summary

    2014 Travel Summary

    I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.

    I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…

     

    JANUARY…

    SULAWESI- INDONESIA

    I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.

    Torajan funeral
    Torajan funeral
    tarsier back in his sleeping tree
    tarsier

    MALAYSIA

    As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.

    pleasure
    proud devotee
    Thaipusam
    for the sake of devotion
    inside the cave
    the end of the pilgrimage

     

    FEBRUARY…

    BALI

    As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…

    last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences
    last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)

     

    MARCH…

    HONG KONG

    A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!

    Hong Kong
    visiting Chinese temples
    Eating Honk Kong
    order after order of new flavours

    MACAU

    During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.

    wide sunny boulevards
    wide sunny boulevards
    Macau casino
    gamble paradise

     

    APRIL…

    BELGIUM

    Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.

    Julien'ke
    deliciously gross Belgian fare
    a long time since I last saw spring
    a long time since I last saw spring

     

    MAY…

    ITALY

    By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.

    Bologna
    the red city seen from above
    Bologna antipasti
    incredible food and wine in Bologna

     

    JULY-AUGUST…

    DRC

    Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!

    It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.

    Congo's stunning nature
    Congo’s stunning nature
    safety first
    safety first
    kids in the village
    kids in the village
    crossing the Congo-Nile
    crossing the Congo-Nile

    UGANDA

    On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.

    buying goat brochettes from the bus window
    buying goat brochettes from the bus window
    Lake Bunyonyi
    Lake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele

    RWANDA

    Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.

    LAKE kivu, Gisenyi
    sunset in Gisenyi

     

    SEPTEMBER…

    FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS

    To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.

    catching up in front of an old country house
    catching up in front of an old country house
    Friesland
    clog boots
    FRIESLAND
    old fashioned fun

     

    OCTOBER…

    MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO

    Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.

    As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.

    kids in Beirat, Albania
    kids in Beirat, Albania

     

    GREECE

    I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.

    Athens by night
    Athens by night
    wine tasting in the country side
    wine tasting in the country side

     

    NOVEMBER…

    IRAN

    Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!

    Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.

    Sheik Loftollah Mosque
    inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahan
    Kashan
    farmer in Kashan
    Kashan
    out of this world rooftops

     

    DECEMBER…

    ECUADOR

    The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.

    What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…

    on the look out for a new life in Ecuador
    on the look out for a new life in Ecuador

     

    How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?

    The post ‘2014 Travel Summary‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • Spiritual Tourism: Thaipusam 2014

    Spiritual Tourism: Thaipusam 2014

    “Experiencing the festival of Thaipusam”… Yes!! Another travel wish come true. A few years ago, upon doing some research on my travel destination Malaysia, this festival had spiked my interest. I was quite upset when I found out I was just a few weeks late for one of the country’s biggest cultural/religious festivals. Six years later, I was pressed against strangers on a train to Batu Caves where Thaipusam was taking place.

    Upon arrival I was overwhelmed by strong smells of fried spices, Indian tunes blasting from every stall and an overly excited crowd. I threw myself into the mass to get as close to the action as I possibly could. It was steaming hot and slightly claustrophobic at times, but it was an experience I will never forget.

    fresh chili's
    fresh chili’s

    Thaipusam is a Tamil celebration of faith and gratitude which takes place every year between January 15th an February 15th. It’s the commemoration of the occasion where Hindu goddess ‘Parvati’ gave ‘Murugan’, god of war, a “vel” (spear) so he could vanquish the evil demon ‘Soorapadman’. Devotees make a vow to offer a “kavadi” i.e a physical burden, to request a favour from the god Murugan. The participants then start their journeys 48 days before Thaipusam by ‘cleansing’ themselves through fasting, praying and observing celibacy. On the eve of the big day, devotees carrying their kavadi, start their 15km pilgrimage- in this case from the main temple in the centre of Kuala Lumpur to the Batu Caves. The intensity of the kavadi ranges from carrying jugs of milk (symbol of purity and virtue) to followers taking a vow of sacrifice at every step by piercing their skins with hooks and spears.

    carrying milk to the temple
    carrying milk to the temple
    oranges and miniature milk pots to weigh down the hooks
    oranges and miniature milk pots to weigh down the hooks
    beginners start with lighter weights
    beginners start with lighter weights
    pilgrimage done on the knees with "lime hooks"
    some chose to pilgrim on their knees
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    milk and jasmin flowers
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    cheeks pierced with a spear
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    intense kavadi
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    chains to control pain level intervals

     

    Most of them bring along some kind of an entourage playing music, singing and encouraging them by repeatedly shouting the words “vel vel!” in a trance-like way.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    mersmerizing drum beats
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    dancing to the rythms

     

    Though it’s less common, women and children also take part in the procession. Most of them carry milk, but every now and then you can spot a few of them enduring the pain.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    vow of silence

    Thaipusam, Malaysia

    Thaipusam, Malaysia

    The participants numb their pain with natural herbs and consecrated ashes, moreover helping them to reach a state of trance.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    ashes and ‘special’ cigars
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    taking a smoking break
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    stupefied devotee
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    devotee’s spirit transformed into that of a sleeping snake

    A strange mix of suffering, exhaustion, pleasure, trance, curiosity and spiritual bliss come together to form a peculiar and intense atmosphere during the procession.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    suffering

    Thaipusam, Malaysia

    exhaustion
    exhaustion
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    pleasure
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    trance
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    curiosity
    spiritual bliss, Thaipusam, Malaysia
    spiritual bliss
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    priest attending to devotee before entering the caves

    The final sacrificial act of faith is for devotees to climb up a 272 step stairway to deliver their offerings in the Batu Caves temple.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    Murugan guarding the steps to Batu Caves
    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    inside the cave

    Once inside the caves, the milk is offered and the hooks are taken down. Consecrated ash is sprinkled over the devotees’ hooks and piercing before they are removed. No blood is shed during the piercing and removal.

    Thaipusam, Malaysia
    priest removing the hooks

    TIPS

    Leave your “germophobia” at home. If you want to get a sense of what’s going on, you’ll be close to people. Very close. You’ll be covered in sweat and I guarantee you it won’t necessarily be yours.

    To get to the Batu Caves, take the KTM. It’s not a good idea to take a car or a taxi. Unless you  just love traffic jams.

    The procession goes on all throughout the day. However, it’s best to get an early start as it can get pretty hot during the day; 8.30-9.00AM is a good time to arrive.

    In order to get some good pictures, start at the road, where devotees begin the last leg of their journeys. Then slowly make your way to the entrance of the caves.

    You can climb up the steps with the devotees and enter the caves, but beware, this can be a long process. Unless you’ve never been in the Batu Caves, there not really much to see inside except… People… Oceans of people!

    Once you’re ready to leave the scene, don’t take the KTM back. There is a long queue to enter the train which will be over packed. Instead catch a bus going direction ‘town’.

     

    Would you consider going to a crowed cultural festival like Thaipusam?

     

  • 2013 Travel Summary, Part II

    2013 Travel Summary, Part II

    Resuming the travel summary of 2013, the nomadic year… Read part I here.

     

    JULY… Timor-Leste- Gili islands

    If you have to leave Bali for a few days, where do you go? Ummm… Timor-Leste? Why not… Practical information online about Timor-Leste is scarce, so I left without any expectations. That might be why I loved it so much. If not because I have a tendency towards raw and unknown places. I enjoyed the fact that it was a trip for “advanced” travellers , I had plenty of new experiences- like eating dog and I met some awesome people. Another destination on my top 10 best trips-list!

    stunning landscapes
    stunning landscapes
    the Timorese
    socialising with the Timorese

    Gili islands

    Douglas and I took a few days off to meet-up with friends from England vacationing in the Gili islands. I made it a point to visit all three of the islands so I could compare and decide which one to choose for future trips! Read about my findings here. We spent lazy days on the beach, eating freshly caught fish, drinking beers and snorkelling with turtles. It was the ideal lazy beach holiday.

    lazy days
    lazy days
    happy island kids
    happy island kids

     

    AUGUST… Borneo

    I spent the last week of August in Sabah, Borneo. You might not believe it, but traveling around so much can get quite tiring. So I did what any burnt out traveler would do; I traveled lazily! I got massages, relaxed at white sand beaches, ate tonnes of fresh seafood, did mountain hikes, saw orang utans in the wild… Finally, I visited a refugee village on stilts, but that story deserves its own post. By the end of my stay in Kota Kinabalu, I had gotten quite a attached to the place. A place which seemed incredibly bland at first glance.

    village on stilts
    village on stilts
    wild orang utang
    wild orang utang

     

    SEPTEMBER… The Philippines

    I had a travel dream. It took me 13 years to make it happen, but at last… I went to the Philippines… and I was not disappointed. I spent most of my time there in Palawan. Every single day, my dear Douglas had to listen to me say: “Look at this!! How is this possible?? I can’t believe this beauty is real?!”

    el nido
    island hopping
    jeepney
    driving in the country side

    The Philippines are really close to my heart, not only because I loved everything about this flavourful country; the good, the bad and the ugly. But also because of my Pinoy friends who have shown me the true spirit of the Philipino community. If you’ve missed my posts resuming our vacation in Palawan, check out part I and part II.

    paradise beach
    paradise beaches

     

    Oh yes… and Manila is absolutely wacky!

     

    OCTOBER… Home sweet home, Bali

    Peace and quiet in Bali. For the first time in months I spent a full 4 weeks in the same spot. I used this time to explore the island further. I went on diving and snorkelling trips with friends in Lembongan and swam with graciously beautiful wild manta rays. I started practicing yoga and participated in a writing workshop during the Ubud writers festival. I woke up at the crack of dawn to visit Balinese temples minus the tourists. I wanted to learn Indonesian, so I enrolled in a class and finished the course. Now, I’m not fluent, but I can hold my head up high while having a basic conversation. I also know a fair amount of obscene words. What more do you need?

    bali
    visiting temples
    galungan
    immersing ourselves in the culture

     

    NOVEMBER… Vietnam

    Once again I had to leave Indonesia. This time around, I visited South Vietnam on a quest to understand why so many visitors dislike it as a destination. Though I understand why, I only experienced rainbows, sparkles and chocolate covered kittens. I was taken aback by a fragrant cuisine that was new to me. Vietnamese food… WOW! Read about my trip here.

    Mui Ne beach
    Mui Ne beach front
    Vietnamese food
    Vietnamese food

    DECEMBER… Sulawesi

    I’m writing you from Sulawesi, Indonesia where a couple of friends and I will be celebrating the end of a fantastic year and welcoming a new one. Hopefully a new year filled with laughter, friendship, love, adventure and realisation of goals and dreams. Those are my wishes or you.

     

    Happy New Year, Everyone!

     

    What was the travel highlight of your year?

     

  • 2013 Travel Summary

    2013 Travel Summary

    2013 flew by so fast, I hardly saw the months pass by. In terms of travel, this year was insane! I moved from Europe to Asia and wound up in a place that “forces” me to leave the country and travel at least every two months. Not the worst deal, right?

     

    Here is part I of my 2013 travel summary:

    JANUARY… Belgium

    I started 2013 in my favourite city of all times: Ghent, living and working in the city centre. It was an extremely busy month but an exciting one with lots quality time with friends and family.

    gent
    frozen city centre

    I conquered one of my biggest (irrational) fears: driving. It was a real challenge for me especially since the lessons took place at night, in the snow! Learning to drive has been on the top of my resolutions list for years. I finally pulled through.

     

    FEBRUARY… Poland

    I took a short trip to Warsaw with one of my best friends. Poland during the winter is no joke, but the snow embellished the city. We had a great time learning all about the Polish vodka drinking etiquette. I had my first experience as a journalist at a Polish radio station and enjoyed a fab jazz concert.

    Warsaw's old town square
    >Warsaw’s old town square
    at Trojia Polskie radio
    at Trojka Polskie radio

    Exactly 3 years earlier, a British girl hitchhiked from London to Berlin and stopped in Ghent on her way there. We met, we hit it off, we became friends and she continued her journey to Berlin. On her way back to London, she passed through Ghent again and stayed with me for a couple of days. Ever since, she has moved to Australia and we never saw each other again. Until… we bumped into each other on Warsaw’s main square. Magical! We spent the little time we had, catching up over food and coffee!

    reunited
    reunited

     

    MARCH… Oman, UAE, Bankok

    I exchanged the everlasting cold temperatures of Europe for the Eastern heat. My voyage started in Oman. A country I had been drawn to for years. When I finally set foot in it, I fell in love head over heels. Oman was everything I hoped it would be and more. I stayed with an awesome woman who introduced me to Omani culture. We partied, gossiped, walked around Muscat, bonded over huge plates of traditional Omani food. During my little road trip I discovered the country’s wonderful and hospitable people, the ancient culture and the stunning nature… I loved it all.

    muscat malecon
    Muscat’s corniche
    digging in
    digging in

     

    United Arab Emirates

    After Oman, I made a stop in the United Arab Emirates. Mainly to visit a friend who had just emigrated there. She showed me around the glam of Dubai. I was expecting it to dislike it, but Dubai surprised me. I enjoyed the fancy cocktails and the high class lunches. I loved the sense of safety and the well dressed tourists. Even though I have strong reservations about energy wasting in he UAE and the whole “bigger is better” attitude, one can’t deny it is a unique place on earth, showcasing human ingenuity. If only they could use that ingenuity in an environmental friendly and fair trade kind of way…

    dubai
    Burj Khalifa, tallest building in the world

    Bangkok

    When my time in Dubai was up, I made way to Bangkok. Again, just a brief encounter which was just long enough to allow me to get a feel of the city. I stayed in a fantastic boutique hostel that blew my mind. Refill Now! is probably the most stylish and clean hostel I’ve ever stayed in. I met some kick-ass ladies whom I explored the city with. I haven’t quite made up my mind about whether or not I like Bangkok. I guess I’ll have to go back to decide.

    Refill Now! hostel
    pool at Refill Now! hostel
    Bangkok by night
    Bangkok by night

     

    APRIL… Myanmar

    I spent three weeks in Myanmar discovering a country that only recently opened its doors to the rest of the world. It’s without a doubt a fascinating country, untouched in so many ways, but I didn’t LOVE the place. I don’t think it has anything to do with me getting a Buddha overdose, but there was just something that didn’t agree with me. Was it the fact that it was so hot you couldn’t move during the day? Or that the food wasn’t all that? Or was it the fact that I longed to stop traveling and settle down for a while? Or yet again, was I too bothered by the current regime? Either way Myanmar and I just didn’t click. I’m not sure why, I never really understood. All I know is; I won’t be going back any time soon.

    Bagan
    beautiful Bagan
    transformed into a Burmese lady
    transformed into a Burmese lady

     

    MAY… Malaysia-Singapore

    In may, I finally got to store away my luggage for a while. Douglas and I settled down in Kuala Lumpur. The stability only lasted a short time as we moved from KL to Georgetown, Penang. Neither cities was the kind of environment we wanted to live in, so we decided to leave mainland Malaysia behind.

    Kuala Lumpur
    view from our window in Kuala Lumpur
    egg oyster
    getting stuffed in George town
    George town by night
    Penang by night

     

    Singapore

    Later that month I revisited Singapore and just like during my first encounter 5 years ago, I loved the country/city. Yes, it’s freakishly clean, strict and (too?) organised, but it’s awesome! It’s an especially welcome break after the chaos of Kuala Lumpur. The food is amazing and I love how three very different ethnicities live together, side by side. If the rent in Singapore wasn’t so damn high, that’s where we’d be living right now.

    mosque in Arab quarter, singapore
    mosque in Arab quarter
    Little India, singapore
    colourful facades of Little India
    China town, singapore
    China town
    Laksa soup
    Laksa

     

    JUNE…Bali

    Aaah, Bali… I found it just as beautiful as when I left it behind 5 years ago. It has changed a lot, but the essence is still present. The smells of frangipani and incense, the sounds of gamelan, the bright green rice fields… We found Ubud the perfect place to spend a few month living and working remotely. So we moved and started a new life on the islands of the gods.

    vanilla pods, Bali
    vanilla pods drying in the Balinese sun
    Balinese gateways
    Balinese gateway

    Stay tuned for part II of the year!

     

  • Lazy travel: Sabah, Borneo

    Lazy travel: Sabah, Borneo

    One week lay over in ‘Kota Kinabalu’ or ‘KK’ for friends, capital of Sabah, the second largest state of Malaysia. Located on the island of Borneo, the state is reputed for its rich natural diversity.

    It boasts Malaysia’s highest peak, a UNESCO world heritage tropical jungle, pristine beaches, world-class dive sites and orangutans in the wild.

    Amazing!

    Who wouldn’t want a weeklong layover in what sounds like an ecological paradise?! You would be mad not to grasp the opportunity to explore the riches of Sabah. Yet here I was, comfortably settled in my hostel dorm room, not planning any activities at all.

    What happened?

    Sabah does indeed have some gems, but like most treasures, they are highly protected. This means you mostly need to book packaged tours to explore the majority of them. That’s right, forget the ‘National Geographic-type’ scene of you and your local guide machetting your way through the lush steamy rainforest. There are clearly marked paths and lots of other tourists.

    entrance Kinabalu park
    entrance to the park

    To climb Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia’s highest mountain, you need to book your overnight expedition months ahead and it will set you back €270

    Kinabalu peak from a safe distance
    Kinabalu peak from a safe distance

    During your organised canoe safari through the jungle rivers, your guide tells you he can’t stop the boat for you to check out the monkey posing by the river bank because it’s already 6.05pm and your tour ends at 6pm. (True story from several travellers I met)

    You’re obviously not the only one taking the tours, so you can expect hordes of (Chinese) tourists, island hopping with you and leaving trash all over the not so deserted beaches.

    arrival of the tourist groups
    arrival of a tourist group

    For a guaranteed sighting of orangutangs swinging freely through the treetops you need to make way to the rehabilitation centre… Why spend seven hours on the road only to have to fight off a crowd of tourists on the viewing platform.

    Don’t get me wrong, there are possibilities to have a more authentic Borneo experience and not use tours, but it will take you quite some time, effort and money.

    So what happened?

    I was simply not in the mood for extensive travel nor did I want a disneyland-type outing despite the fact that the attractions are unique in the world. I decided not to partake in the “mandatory” tourist trail. I spent most my days in Kota Kinabalu working from the hostel, getting massages, eating, socialising with travellers and the hostel personnel.

    daily dose of Malaysian staples
    daily dose of Malaysian staples

    After a while I started feeling some traveler’s guilt, thinking “I really ought to visit something...ANYTHING!”

    So I took 3 short trips from KK and as it turns out, you can perfectly “fake” the tourist trail by going on day trips!

    Even though I was being a lazy traveler, I still managed to see most of Sabah’s highlights!

    One of the trips, which was actually an overnight trip, took me to Kinabalu National park

    I didn’t climb Mt. Kinabalu but I did mount some sloping hills around it and got some great views

    Kinabalu park
    views

    I hiked a few km’s through the rainforest

    light hiking
    light hiking

    A 15 minute boat ride just off KK’s coast took me to some unspoilt beaches. 

    deserted beach
    deserted beach
    perfect beach
    perfect for a beer

    The last outing, took me to Rasa Ria, a five star resort which has its own nature reserve. It’s a short 45 minute taxi ride away from KK, which allowed me to spend a few a hours getting close and personal with our orangutan cousins. The resort’s rehabilitation centre is in close coöperation with the larger and more popular Sepilok Nature Reserve. There are much less orangutans in Rasa Ria, but also less tourists and the monkeys play around closer to the viewing platform.

    happy and free
    happy and free
    orangutan buddies
    buddies

    Unfortunately, diving was the only activity missing from my ‘lazy travel itinerary’. It takes an extra flight, a bus trip and truckload of cash (at least €500) to reach the underwater paradise of Sipidan. Although it would have undoubtedly been worth the trouble, I didn’t have the money. I still managed to see a lot of fish… on my plate! 

    yellow fin tuna
    yellow fin tuna
    exotic lobster
    lobster
    blowfish
    blowfish
    tropical fish
    tropical fish
    blue spotted stingray
    blue spotted stingray

    I spoke with many travellers in Sabah and they all confirmed my thoughts: by visiting this part of Borneo, you probably won’t be in for a rugged, authentic and unique adventure. Unless you have an abundance of time and resources, that is.

    Sabah is a great destination if you long to comfortably experience what Borneo has to offer minus the hassle of organising permits, transportation… I would advice you to combine a visit to Sabah with –time permitting- Sarawak, the other Malaysian state on the island.

    For a more unspoilt cultural and natural Bornean experience, head to Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo.

     

    Have you ever skipped the main tourist attractions because you just didn’t feel like it?

    The post “Lazy travel: Sabah, Borneo” first appeared on Travel Cake.