Category: Indonesia

12 Favourite Destinations

It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.

I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”

“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.

In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.

With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.

While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…

So in no Particular order

1. Oman

I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.

wadi perfect for a dip

2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London

I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.

some amazing food in the area

3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali

This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic

rice fields around Ubud

4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe

As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.

sunset over the Zambezi

5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland

The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.

somewhere along the way

6. Living the island life in Zanzibar

I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.

Zanzibari fishing village

7. Morocco

Every time I go to Morocco I’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.

Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou

8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste

It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventure that made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.

coastline in Dili

9. Hiking Dominica

Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.

every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island

10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel

Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.

quiet streets of the old city

11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela

Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.

Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean

12. Bhaktapur, Nepal

Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!

Bhaktapur in the morning light

I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.

I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.

What are your 5 favourite destinations?

The post “12 Favourite Destinations” first appeared on Travel Cake.

September 2, 2014
5 Quirky Things to do in Bali

There is a great misconception that Bali is just another tourist mecca full of beautiful clichés. Granted, there is a great deal of mass tourism, but there is so much more to it than that. Finding authenticity is a walk in the park and going off the beaten track is just as easy. Quirks are plentiful and one needn’t look far to find some. Besides the cultural oddities, there are tonnes of fun off-beat activities you can participate in. These are my favourite quirky things to do in Bali.

1. Mud wrestling under a full moon at the Green school

The greenest school on earth lies somewhere between rice fields and Balinese villages. Built entirely out of bamboo, the Green School boasts an endangered bird rehabilitation program, an organic vegetable garden grown by its students, an enormous crystal radiating positive energy on the playground, a natural swimming pool and… a mud pit. Students, teachers and visitors regularly engage in playful mud wrestling tournaments. Several times a year, a “Mepantigan full moon performance” is held on the school grounds. Mepantigan is a traditional act combining Balinese martial art, fire dance, drama and music. Those who don’t mind getting their clothes dirty, can join the mud fun after the performance.

playing in the mud. Mind the school’s horse in the background. Photo by Ana Baranova

Even if you’re not lucky enough to be in town during the mud fight, I recommend visiting the Green School anyway. A sustainable international school running on solar energy with “a vision of a natural, holistic, student-centered learning environment that empowers and inspires its students to be creative, innovative, green leaders.” A school so incredibly cool, you’d want to turn into a kid just to attend. Visit their website to find out more or to book a tour.

we could all learn something at the green school

2. Party hard… and sober on a Sunday morning

Every Sunday, Ubud’s most popular yoga spot organises a smashing Sunday Dance. Starting at 11AM, expats, locals and visitors come together to party like there is no tomorrow. People let go and let lose, moving their bodies to the music in which ever way they feel like, expressing themselves through movement. There is screaming, crying, laughter, sweaty hugs, glitter… Anything goes. There is only one rule: no talking. As the dance progresses, the music gets more intense and the dancers feed on each other’s energies. Unbelievably powerful! I’ve added this to the list of quirky things because, if you only ever danced in amongst a crowd at a club or at a party and preferably in slightly intoxicated condition, your first minutes there can feel quite awkward and bizarre. As soon as you realise nobody is there to observe or judge, you loose your inhibitions naturally. Put on a smile, dance and spend the rest of your day on cloud nine.

good vibes on Sunday morning

3. Laugh your head off during a laughing yoga session

Laughter strengthens your immune system, boosts your energy, diminishes pain and protects you from the damaging effects of stress. This is the mantra that inspires the biweekly laughing yoga gatherings in Ambar Ashram. Imagine a grass field covered with 100 Balinese on a yoga mat, laughing themselves silly. Doesn’t that sound like the place to be?! Even though it’s a local activity and the spoken language is Indonesian, foreigners are more than welcome… Laughter knows no language. There’s more to the class than laughter, but I don’t want to reveal any spoilers. Classes are free and last an hour. Bring a yoga mat if you have one and leave with a relaxed mind and body!

After laughing yoga with Peter

laughing it out

4. Sip on fancy ‘cat poop coffee’

I haven’t gone mad, I consciously wrote “cat poop coffee”. That’s right, Kopi Luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world, is actually “civet cat poop coffee”. Some explanation… As night falls, wild civets roam around the “Luwak “coffee plantations to feed on the plants’ best coffee beans. The civets having partially digested the beans, excrement them around the plantation. The farmers then search for and pick up the stools. Once dry, the remaining beans are picked out by hand, then peeled and roasted. The result: world’s most exclusive coffee. “Is it any good?”, you want know… Well I’ve heard mixed reviews: some find it exquisite, others find it too bland. It’s not a coffee that will have you bouncing off the walls, but I enjoyed its mildness. It definitely doesn’t taste as gross as the title could have you thinking, but I’m not sure it’s worth the €6/100gr to me.

coffee eating civet, sadly encaged as a show piece for tourists

dried civet feces

kopi luwak- cat poop coffee

5. For women only: enjoy a steam sauna… for your most intimate organ

This one actually originates from a traditional Javanese beauty and bridal ritual. I’ll keep the story short. Just before marriage or after giving birth, Javanese women undergo a cleansing ritual. Only wearing a sarong, the women are seated on a chair with a hole. In that hole lies a clay plot with heated charcoal and herbs creating rising fog which “cleans” the women’s private parts. This procedure called “ratus”, is also practiced in Bali and is available in local spa’s. You don’t need to be a bride to enjoy the Javanese beauty secret. Now every adventurous woman can give it a go. It takes about 45minutes and in some modern spa’s you will get a shoulder massage while you get “steamed”. My ratus experience was a very pleasant one. After feelings of awkwardness sitting half-naked on a smoking chair, came relaxation and bliss. I felt rejuvenated and fresh. To be repeated! I underwent the treatment at Midas Spa in Ubud.

get the picture?

These are just a few of the unusual things to do in Bali. Plenty more to discover throughout the island and the entire country!

Which one of these quirks would you attempt?

The post “5 Quirky Things to do in Bali first appeared” on Travel Cake.

April 2, 2014
What’s in Sulawesi?

Maybe I should start by answering the question “where is Sulawesi”. Among the 6000 inhabited islands of Indonesia, lies Sulawesi, one of the country’s largest. Announcing we were off to explore Sulawesi, my friends and I all got the same puzzled reaction: “Oh, how lovely… What’s in Sulawesi?” To be honest, I wasn’t quite sure when we left. I had read a couple of thing here and there, but it was a big question mark to me as well.

So here’s is what I found on the island of Sulawesi

1. Jaw dropping landscapes

Mist rolling over hills and valleys, tiny motorways crossing vast plains of rice fields, rugged cliffs, jungles, volcanoes, beaches… Diverse landscapes lending themselves perfectly for hikes and motorbike rides.

around the hills

black sand beach

driving a motorbike

2. Tana Toraja- remarkable culture and architecture

Land of the Torajan people. Emerge yourself in the fascinating culture of the Toraja in the southern half of the island. Torajans welcome guests to discover their unique culture and beliefs. I know the word “unique” is often used too loosely to describe pretty much anything, but if there was ever a correct description for this culture, unique would be the one! I found their “death-centric way of life” particularly interesting.

traditional Torajan jewellery

at a Torajan funeral

architecture

3. Gorgeous deserted islands

The Togean islands for example… If you keep in mind the effort to get there- we drove and sailed for 2 days, non-stops- it will not come as a shock that there is no phone or internet connection on the tiny islands. Great as a digital detox or just a relaxing few days of beach, snorkel, eat, sleep, repeat.

mangrove beach in Bunaken

beach crabs everywhere

romance returns when technology disappears…

4. A dark side

As mentioned above, death is everywhere around you in Southern Sulawesi. Not in creepy, dangerous way, but as a natural, celebrated part of life. Every now and then you stumble upon a collection of century old bones and coffins. Bodies are buried in cliffs and caves, skeletons are given cigarettes and money. Sometimes I imagined myself on the set of a gothic music video.

surprised by these century old skulls

cigarettes for the dead

5. Top notch underwater scenery

Prepare to redefine your perception of colour… Some of the brightest, most colourful coral and fish can be found in Sulawesi. Despite the years of dynamite fishing in the area, there is still a considerable amount of intact coral. The fishes’ patterns, textures and colour schemes inspire a mental creation of a new wardrobe. Such a pity I’m not a designer!

For the experienced who have had their share of coral gazing and would like to see a different kind of marine habitat, the Lembeh straight offers some world class muck diving opportunities. Snorkel in Bunaken, muck dive in Lembeh and dive around the Togean islands.

unfortunately I don’t own a waterproof camera (yet?), so this is the best I can show you. Togean islands

6. Tarsiers

If you ask me, they are the cutest primates on this planet. Sulawesi houses tarsiers in two of their national parks. We tracked them down with a guide at the crack of dawn in Tangkoko National Park. My nine year old self gave me a big “high five” for seeing them in real life… Childhood dreams come true!

tarsier back in his sleeping tree after a night of hunting

aren’t they cute?

7. A new cuisine to try out

The cuisine in Sulawesi has its own personality. Sure, you can find your typical “mie goreng” or “nasi campur”, but an abundance of traditional dishes are waiting to be sampled. Vegetarians/vegans beware: Sulawesi dishes are heavy in meats or fish, so you’ll have a hard time finding something other than rice to eat- the rice is exquisite though. I tried “pa’piong”, a Torajan speciality: meat (or fish) with vegetables and traditional black spice, slow cooked in a bamboo tube over an open fire. Incredibly strong and distinct flavours!

exciting new spices to try…

doesn’t look very appetising but worth a try: pa’piong with black rice

8. Jellyfish lake

On the Togean islands you will find a lake full of stingless colourful jellyfish. You can swim with them, observe them while snorkelling. There are supposedly only three lakes in the world where this is possible! The jellyfish have no natural predators in those waters therefore they’ve lost their traditional defence mechanism, which makes them harmless to you, swimmer. It’s a magnificent experience. I quote my dear husband: “it’s like swimming in a lake full of boobs”.

foto by Nao Nishimiya

9. A Buffalo and Pig market

Admittedly, this is a rather strange attraction, but definitely worth a visit. I was so impressed I could hardly think. The noises, the smells, the fact that everyone else seemed so much at ease while I was fearing for my life (not really)… I find it enriching to challenge my views of what is “acceptable behaviour”, in this case behaviour towards cattle. Again, maybe not a good idea for vegetarians/vegans…

walking amongst the buffalos

farmer selling his pigs

10. Beautiful national parks, home to endangered species: crested black macaque

There are many national parks with impressive fauna and flora. One of the parks is home to the critically endangered crested black macaque. I must say, I had no idea how bad the situation was. These apes are literally on the verge of extinction, even more so than tigers, orang utans or rhinos!

curly roots

shameless macaque photograph

climbing a 2000 year old tree

11. Fantastic coffee

The plantations lie in the Torajan highlands and produce a coffee bean that is good enough to be internationally distributed as ‘gourmet coffee’. The premium beans can hardly be found in the rest of the country, they are reserved for export, but we found a restaurant that was serving premium Torajan coffee (Cafe Aras in Rantepao). WOW! If you can’t make it to Sulawesi, why not try a cup of their coffee in your country?

local coffee

Things to keep in mind

Sulawesi is not a cheap destination. Transportation is either extremely uncomfortable or pricey. Prices for meals are slightly higher than in Java or in Bali. If you are planning on diving, which is recommended, don’t forget to include that in your budget as well. Most dives are priced at 30US$. Accommodation on the smaller islands start at 20US$ per person, not per room (!) and include three meals.

To travel in Sulawesi means to wait around a lot. Slow travel is key if you want to see the island. The attractions are scattered around, which creates “dead days” between two attractions; days of travel or waiting for a connection. Take your time or travel by plane. There are 6 airports on the islands: Makassar (South) and Manado (North) being the biggest ones.

Had I known what I know now, I would have brought to the islands: a frisbee or a ball, a bottle of quality rum to make cocktails which are not served in Togean and extremely expensive in Bunaken. I would have brought more reading material– one novel wasn’t enough and some good snacks from the mainland– I was often hungry before dinner was served and got tired of eating the cookies from the only shop on the island.

Have you heard of Sulawesi as a tourist destination? Would you consider going?

The post “What’s in Sulawesi” first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 24, 2014
Torajan Death Rituals

“Would you like to go to a funeral, m’am?”

Not exactly the question you’d expect when stepping out of a long distance bus… And yet, what this man was proposing, is quite normal in Tana Toraja. In fact, funerals are the “main attraction” in the region. Visitors mostly come to learn about the Torajan culture in which death happens to play a central role. The Torajans are known for their elaborate traditional funeral rites. Tana Toraja, which means land of the Toraja people, is located in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.

arriving in Tana Toraja, Sulawesi

Intrigued by this culture, we agreed to the invitation and headed to the funeral only minutes after dropping our bags at the hotel. Luther, our guide, advised us to gift a few packs of cigarettes to the mourning family. “Cigarettes”? How ironic. He also told us we were very lucky; we were going to the funeral of a very rich lady who had long been chief of village…

“Lucky”? What a confusing use of words…

The deceased lady’s family welcomed us warmly and insisted we’d sit with them. We were offered tea and biscuits while encouraged to chat about our countries. This was all very awkward. The taboo around death in Western cultures was clearly nowhere to be found around here.

The Torajans seemed very “relaxed” about it all. That might have something to do with the fact that when people pass, they are not buried straight away. Their families continue to work in order to gather all necessary funds to finance the funeral. It may take months or years before the burying rituals begin, depending on the family’s cash flow.

Meanwhile, the bodies are embalmed, wrapped in cloth and kept in their traditional houses or ‘tongkonan’, under the same roof with their kin. Their spirits then dwell around the village until the burial. The dead aren’t considered dead, but merely ‘incurably ill’ until the funeral is complete. They are treated as though they were still alive. Family members take turns in sitting with the body, brining it food, water and cigarettes on a daily basis. Not doing so would lead the deceased to think they aren’t cared about and he/she would bring bad luck to the village.

tongkonans

In Torajan culture, the funeral is the most important ceremony in life. One leads his life in order to have the biggest, most elaborate funeral possible. The 100 or more guests always bring a gift: cigarettes, rice, a pig or a buffalo according to their financial ability. The funeral lasts 11 days and consists of serval rites.

highly prized buffalo being gifted to the family

chanting and dancing

buffalo fighting is part of the funeral rites

a procession of the closest family members

spiritual men lead the procession

Torajan funerals are a bloody affair. The deceased’s soul is believed to travel to the afterlife on a buffalo or horse. How do you bring livestock to your afterlife? By sacrificing it, of course. Therefore, the more buffalo offered, the more reassured the family will be that their loved ones will reach his or her final destination safely. Apart from buffaloes, the dead will also need to bring along their most valuable possessions, including the rest of their livestock. This is one of the most important funeral rites: pigs and buffaloes are slaughtered by the dozens. Their souls join their owners while their flesh is distributed with the living family and guests. How’s that for a party favour, a big bag of meat…

gifted pigs

the meat is shared amongst guest and the blood is kept in bamboo

Because buffaloes come with a high price tag, their horns are cut off and kept as a “trophy”. They are hung up on the deceased tongkonan and represent the family’s wealth. The more horns on your house, the wealthier your family.

small buffalo horns

tongkonan of a wealthy family

When the funeral is completed the bodies are buried. Not under the ground, but in a cave or in a hole carved in a cliff. Family members craft a “tau-tau”; what could be compared to an avatar, representing the deceased. His/her spirit is believed to inhabit the tau-tau. They are placed on a balcony in front of the graves. Several times a year, after the rice harvest, family members ask their ancestors, inhabiting the tau-tau, for well being, good crops and healthy children.

graves in the cliff

tau-tau and graves

tau-tau; meaning not human, nor puppet.

more live like tau-tau

The burying ritual for babies is less complex. The lifeless babies are embalmed and placed in a sitting position in a carved hole of a large tree. The type of tree used a for the burying is a specific one; a thick white fluid oozes from its bark when cut. The fluid symbolises the milk the tree will feed the young child with. It embraces the babies by growing around them and closing the hole. It becomes their mother. These trees are considered sacred and may not be approached by outsiders but we were allowed to visit an old tree which is no longer in use.

baby graves

Attending a funeral is weirdly enough, a top attraction in Tana Toraja. I found it such an incredible enrichment to experience how this culture deals with death and what place it has in their communities. Watching the slaughtering was bit harsh, however that’s easily put into perspective since it’s so authentic. This is not some show put on for tourists, this is Torajan reality. People are so friendly and open, I quickly felt at ease.

‘Funeral season’ is in July and August, but there are funerals throughout the year. Tourists are welcome to attend them and are treated as honoured guests. Make sure you bring a gift to the family! There isn’t really a dress code, but obviously you should dress modestly and respectfully. If you have a black t-shirt, wear it; you’ll fit right in. The city of Rantepao is a good base to explore Tana Toraja.

Would animal sacrificing stop you from attending a local ritual?

The post ‘Torajan death rituals‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

February 10, 2014
Off the Grid: Exploring Indonesia

Disapproving looks are thrown my way as I type this article on my tiny phone keyboard. Who spends time on their phones when they are on a small tropical island?! Well… Me.

I’m in Bunaken, a lush island just off the coast of Sulawesi, Indonesia. The sea is warm, the coconut trees are a great source of shade, the corals are bright and the multi-coloured fish are bountiful. As in most parts of Sulawesi the internet connection is limited or non-existent. Therefore, I will have to restrain from blogging for two weeks.

I will however, post pictures on Instagram and Facebook. If you want to stay updated, make sure you connect with me, if that’s not the case yet. Just hit the “Like” button the Travel Cake Facebook-page or find me on Instagram- @mangovoyage

See you in two weeks with new stories!

How are you spending the first weeks of the year?

January 8, 2014
2013 Travel Summary, Part II

Resuming the travel summary of 2013, the nomadic year… Read part I here.

JULY… Timor-Leste- Gili islands

If you have to leave Bali for a few days, where do you go? Ummm… Timor-Leste? Why not… Practical information online about Timor-Leste is scarce, so I left without any expectations. That might be why I loved it so much. If not because I have a tendency towards raw and unknown places. I enjoyed the fact that it was a trip for “advanced” travellers , I had plenty of new experiences- like eating dog and I met some awesome people. Another destination on my top 10 best trips-list!

stunning landscapes

socialising with the Timorese

Gili islands

Douglas and I took a few days off to meet-up with friends from England vacationing in the Gili islands. I made it a point to visit all three of the islands so I could compare and decide which one to choose for future trips! Read about my findings here. We spent lazy days on the beach, eating freshly caught fish, drinking beers and snorkelling with turtles. It was the ideal lazy beach holiday.

lazy days

happy island kids

AUGUST… Borneo

I spent the last week of August in Sabah, Borneo. You might not believe it, but traveling around so much can get quite tiring. So I did what any burnt out traveler would do; I traveled lazily! I got massages, relaxed at white sand beaches, ate tonnes of fresh seafood, did mountain hikes, saw orang utans in the wild… Finally, I visited a refugee village on stilts, but that story deserves its own post. By the end of my stay in Kota Kinabalu, I had gotten quite a attached to the place. A place which seemed incredibly bland at first glance.

village on stilts

wild orang utang

SEPTEMBER… The Philippines

I had a travel dream. It took me 13 years to make it happen, but at last… I went to the Philippines… and I was not disappointed. I spent most of my time there in Palawan. Every single day, my dear Douglas had to listen to me say: “Look at this!! How is this possible?? I can’t believe this beauty is real?!”

island hopping

driving in the country side

The Philippines are really close to my heart, not only because I loved everything about this flavourful country; the good, the bad and the ugly. But also because of my Pinoy friends who have shown me the true spirit of the Philipino community. If you’ve missed my posts resuming our vacation in Palawan, check out part I and part II.

paradise beaches

Oh yes… and Manila is absolutely wacky!

OCTOBER… Home sweet home, Bali

Peace and quiet in Bali. For the first time in months I spent a full 4 weeks in the same spot. I used this time to explore the island further. I went on diving and snorkelling trips with friends in Lembongan and swam with graciously beautiful wild manta rays. I started practicing yoga and participated in a writing workshop during the Ubud writers festival. I woke up at the crack of dawn to visit Balinese temples minus the tourists. I wanted to learn Indonesian, so I enrolled in a class and finished the course. Now, I’m not fluent, but I can hold my head up high while having a basic conversation. I also know a fair amount of obscene words. What more do you need?

visiting temples

immersing ourselves in the culture

NOVEMBER… Vietnam

Once again I had to leave Indonesia. This time around, I visited South Vietnam on a quest to understand why so many visitors dislike it as a destination. Though I understand why, I only experienced rainbows, sparkles and chocolate covered kittens. I was taken aback by a fragrant cuisine that was new to me. Vietnamese food… WOW! Read about my trip here.

Mui Ne beach front

Vietnamese food

DECEMBER… Sulawesi

I’m writing you from Sulawesi, Indonesia where a couple of friends and I will be celebrating the end of a fantastic year and welcoming a new one. Hopefully a new year filled with laughter, friendship, love, adventure and realisation of goals and dreams. Those are my wishes or you.

Happy New Year, Everyone!

What was the travel highlight of your year?

December 30, 2013
2013 Travel Summary

2013 flew by so fast, I hardly saw the months pass by. In terms of travel, this year was insane! I moved from Europe to Asia and wound up in a place that “forces” me to leave the country and travel at least every two months. Not the worst deal, right?

Here is part I of my 2013 travel summary:

JANUARY… Belgium

I started 2013 in my favourite city of all times: Ghent, living and working in the city centre. It was an extremely busy month but an exciting one with lots quality time with friends and family.

frozen city centre

I conquered one of my biggest (irrational) fears: driving. It was a real challenge for me especially since the lessons took place at night, in the snow! Learning to drive has been on the top of my resolutions list for years. I finally pulled through.

FEBRUARY… Poland

I took a short trip to Warsaw with one of my best friends. Poland during the winter is no joke, but the snow embellished the city. We had a great time learning all about the Polish vodka drinking etiquette. I had my first experience as a journalist at a Polish radio station and enjoyed a fab jazz concert.

>Warsaw’s old town square

at Trojka Polskie radio

Exactly 3 years earlier, a British girl hitchhiked from London to Berlin and stopped in Ghent on her way there. We met, we hit it off, we became friends and she continued her journey to Berlin. On her way back to London, she passed through Ghent again and stayed with me for a couple of days. Ever since, she has moved to Australia and we never saw each other again. Until… we bumped into each other on Warsaw’s main square. Magical! We spent the little time we had, catching up over food and coffee!

reunited

MARCH… Oman, UAE, Bankok

I exchanged the everlasting cold temperatures of Europe for the Eastern heat. My voyage started in Oman. A country I had been drawn to for years. When I finally set foot in it, I fell in love head over heels. Oman was everything I hoped it would be and more. I stayed with an awesome woman who introduced me to Omani culture. We partied, gossiped, walked around Muscat, bonded over huge plates of traditional Omani food. During my little road trip I discovered the country’s wonderful and hospitable people, the ancient culture and the stunning nature… I loved it all.

Muscat’s corniche

digging in

United Arab Emirates

After Oman, I made a stop in the United Arab Emirates. Mainly to visit a friend who had just emigrated there. She showed me around the glam of Dubai. I was expecting it to dislike it, but Dubai surprised me. I enjoyed the fancy cocktails and the high class lunches. I loved the sense of safety and the well dressed tourists. Even though I have strong reservations about energy wasting in he UAE and the whole “bigger is better” attitude, one can’t deny it is a unique place on earth, showcasing human ingenuity. If only they could use that ingenuity in an environmental friendly and fair trade kind of way…

Burj Khalifa, tallest building in the world

Bangkok

When my time in Dubai was up, I made way to Bangkok. Again, just a brief encounter which was just long enough to allow me to get a feel of the city. I stayed in a fantastic boutique hostel that blew my mind. Refill Now! is probably the most stylish and clean hostel I’ve ever stayed in. I met some kick-ass ladies whom I explored the city with. I haven’t quite made up my mind about whether or not I like Bangkok. I guess I’ll have to go back to decide.

pool at Refill Now! hostel

Bangkok by night

APRIL… Myanmar

I spent three weeks in Myanmar discovering a country that only recently opened its doors to the rest of the world. It’s without a doubt a fascinating country, untouched in so many ways, but I didn’t LOVE the place. I don’t think it has anything to do with me getting a Buddha overdose, but there was just something that didn’t agree with me. Was it the fact that it was so hot you couldn’t move during the day? Or that the food wasn’t all that? Or was it the fact that I longed to stop traveling and settle down for a while? Or yet again, was I too bothered by the current regime? Either way Myanmar and I just didn’t click. I’m not sure why, I never really understood. All I know is; I won’t be going back any time soon.

beautiful Bagan

transformed into a Burmese lady

MAY… Malaysia-Singapore

In may, I finally got to store away my luggage for a while. Douglas and I settled down in Kuala Lumpur. The stability only lasted a short time as we moved from KL to Georgetown, Penang. Neither cities was the kind of environment we wanted to live in, so we decided to leave mainland Malaysia behind.

view from our window in Kuala Lumpur

getting stuffed in George town

Penang by night

Singapore

Later that month I revisited Singapore and just like during my first encounter 5 years ago, I loved the country/city. Yes, it’s freakishly clean, strict and (too?) organised, but it’s awesome! It’s an especially welcome break after the chaos of Kuala Lumpur. The food is amazing and I love how three very different ethnicities live together, side by side. If the rent in Singapore wasn’t so damn high, that’s where we’d be living right now.

mosque in Arab quarter

colourful facades of Little India

China town

Laksa

JUNE…Bali

Aaah, Bali… I found it just as beautiful as when I left it behind 5 years ago. It has changed a lot, but the essence is still present. The smells of frangipani and incense, the sounds of gamelan, the bright green rice fields… We found Ubud the perfect place to spend a few month living and working remotely. So we moved and started a new life on the islands of the gods.

vanilla pods drying in the Balinese sun

Balinese gateway

Stay tuned for part II of the year!

December 26, 2013
What it’s like to live in Ubud, Bali

I’ve been asked the question dozens of times: “what does your life in Bali look like?” I always answer with a detailed description of Ubud, the beautiful spiritual and artsy town we live in. Either I’m not finding descriptive enough words or words just don’t cut it; the reply usually says: “I still don’t really know what you’re doing there, but you sound happy.”

I guess sometimes, you really need more graphic illustrations…

rice fields around Ubud

We live in a house surrounded by a lush tropical garden where flowers and fruits grow freely.

frangipani, bugainvillea, aloe vera and orchids in the garden

pineapple

banana’s

daily dose of Balinese passion fruit from our garden

It’s cheaper to eat at a local restaurant then to cook your food at home. Since most of the restaurant food is organic and freshly prepared, we eat out most of the time.

gluten free vegetarian burrito

fruit salad with yogurt

tofu and brown rice salad

“healthy” treats

Even though the food is healthy, there are a lot of treats to indulge on; shakes, baked goods, pizza, ice cream, delicious chocolate- approved by Belgians. I try to stay active to minimise the damage. Jogging, dancing and yoga help.

fantastic pizza

We work comfortably from home, every day of the week unless we don’t feel like it; that’s when we “do weekend”.

my office…

The town is quite small and you could walk everywhere, but it gets so hot sometimes, walking is not an options- unless you don’t mind arriving at you destination drenched in sweat. We prefer to drive a scooter.

driving down our car free street

the gas station

Besides work, I’ve been learning Indonesian and taking yoga classes.

Indonesian class

Every now and then, I treat myself to a fancy coffee or a spa treatment.

Sunday capuccino

hot springs

We spend our evenings and weekends pretty much in the same way we used to in Europe: concerts, talks, parties and outings with friends… Only the setting is a little more exotic.

BBQ with friends

dancing at a concert

brunch

a day at the beach

Ubud is an artsy town. Balinese as well as foreigners inspire and get inspired to create.

Blanco museum

anyone can be an artist

The Balinese are very spiritual. They honour their gods with daily rituals and offerings containing food (often rice), flowers, coffee, cigarettes… and incense. Every minute of the day, somewhere there is a stick of incense burning and filling the air with a mystic aroma of frangipani and sandalwood. It leaves you sighing: “Ah… Bali…”

ready for the royal cremation

ceremony

offerings everywhere all the time

A growing New Age community has settled down in Ubud. There are holistic healing centres, energy readings, tantric workshops, Tibetan bowl meditation sessions, energy crystal shops, Kirtan chanting, vegetarian-vegan-raw restaurants. Now, I have an open mind about exploring spirituality and every now and then I join the party, but I must admit I’ve been stunned more than once by some of the methods I hear about in the “neo hippie” community.

event posters

Of course there are some down sides of living in Ubud. Like the construction everywhere, all the time. The traffic jams. The fact that the centre is super touristy-in a cheesy kind of way. The fact that every time I walk down the street, I get at least 10 “taxi maybe?”’s. Just to name a few. That being said, I love living in Ubud and I gladly accept the negatives.

ducks and rice fields

Have you ever lived abroad? Would you like to?

The post “What it’s like to live in Ubud, Bali” first appeared on Travel Cake.

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December 23, 2013