No-no, compared to recent years, this one was pretty meek.
I have openly enjoyed staying within my comfort zone and keeping the level of adventure to an absolute minimum.
While having a baby in tow most certainly had something to do with that, it wasn’t the sole reason.
I needed a little break from traveling. I wanted to settle down and build a more sustainable life. I wanted to focus on my business and invest in a different kind of personal growth. No doubt living in gorgeous Bali helped me tame the travel bug as well.
Our lovely neighbourhood in Bali
However, considering my situation, the little travel I did in 2016, was perfectly in line with the basics of my travel principles.
I explored my own (Balinese) back yard.
Sniffing out the cool air in the mountains around Munduk
Exploring the rugged island of Nusa Penida
Snorkeling in Amed
Chilling in the swanky beach town of Seminyak
Bathing in lush waterfalls in central Bali
Hiking the dazzling rice terraces around Ubud and Jatiluwih
I made short stints to 3 countries:
FRANCE
SINGAPORE
AUSTRALIA
Australia, the only new country I visited this year
I expanded my language skills to have a better connection with the local people and a more in depth understanding of their culture.
Getting close and personal with the Balinese culture
All things considered, maybe I wasn’t such a lousy traveler after all. Who’s to say what is a good or bad way to travel anyway? It’s a personal opinion, isn’t it?
So screw it; I’m sending you my travel wish list for 2017, Santa dearest. Moreover, I expect some of these to come true!
Disclaimer: I am a parent now, so technically that makes me Santa.
These are the 7 destinations on my somewhat realistic travel wish list for 2017:
Any African country – preferably one I haven’t visited yet
Ethiopia.
I miss the continent and I long to get to know other parts of it. I’m thinking Senegal/Gambia or Ethiopia. (image)
Norway
This destination has been on my wish list for many years, it’s time to make it happen! I’m already picturing myself trekking in the Norwegian fjords!
Sri Lanka
The spices, the tea, the culture… Reason enough to want to visit Sri Lanka! I’d love to spend an extended amount of time on the island while working.
Malta & Gozo
I wouldn’t necessarily travel to Malta as a tourist, but rather to prospect if Malta or Gozo could be our next temporary base. (image)
Any country in Eastern Europe – preferably one I haven’t traveled to yet
The Middle East is my favourite region to travel to. I’m fascinated by the ancient cultures, I find the food exquisite and the language enchanting. From what I have heard and read, Lebanon is all that and more, with a very distinct personality. Those are some statements that need first hand investigation. (image)
Flores, Indonesia
Despite having lived in Indonesia for almost 2 years, I haven’t seen much of the islands yet. I will not leave this country again without exploring at least one more island! Additionally, I haven’t gone scuba diving in 3 years and I long to peek at the under water world again. Traveling to Flores would perfectly tick these two boxes. (image)
I’ve always loved my travel style and have been proud of the way I explored the corners of the world regardless of what would be considered “good” or bad by anyone else. Now that my travel batteries are reloaded, I look forward to continue exploring the world!
Which destinations are on your 2017 travel wish list?
While preparing for my solo trip to Timor Leste, I noticed there was barley any online information on tourism and travel in East Timor. Though I was desperately hoping to find some inspiration from other travellers to prepare my journey, I found it exhilarating not to be in the know. I had no expectations and let everything surprise me.
Since those fruitless google searches, I’ve told myself I’d share everything I could about my travel experiences in East Timor. It’s a destination that deserves some more attention and that is worth a visit. I’ve already written an article on how travelling in East Timor can be quite challenging. I’ve also shared my bizarre culinary experience in Timor Leste, but since it’s not a cookie-cutter destination, you may need some visual information to help you take the plunge.
East Timor is a great stop over for a seasoned traveler looking for a little edge
Though I’m far from being an expert on East Timor and the issues the country is facing, I found it to be a particularly interesting travel destination. One that doesn’t just inspire “ooh’s and ahh’s” but rather makes you question global politics and forces you to reflect on human nature. Traveling in East Timor was a reality check reminding me of the basics in travel as well as the basics in life. I know, that sounds like pretty heavy shizzle for a weeklong stint but then again, isn’t that the whole point of travel?
As heavy hearted or challenging as travel in East Timor can be, there is plenty of light and colour waiting to be discovered.
Here is travel in East Timor in a few of my favourite snaps
Cristo rei, a giant statue of Jesus Christ standing on a globe overlooking Dili’s bay. Ascend the hill for some mild exercise and a face to face with JC.
The view from Cristo Rei is worth the climb. Cape Fatucama (pictured below) offers white sand beach and clear waters.
Cruising by Dili’s seafront.
Making friends with local beachgoers while hanging out at the beaches just outside the centre,
The market, as always, one of the most colourful spots to pick up the local vibe.
At times, the people in East Timor may seem a little grumpy but once you connect with them, the facade drops and magic happens.
A day trip from Dili or overnight stint to Atauro island flashes you to another era. Back to basics. It’s also a superb scuba diving location.
On the road to Maubisse we traversed winding roads over steep hills dotted with coffee plantations.
The centre of Maubisse has a certain charm to it. Why, I can’t quite put a finger on.
Colour and creativity are features I appreciate in my means of transport.
A local sunset beach activity: foraging shellfish at low tide.
Have you travelled to a destination you knew next to nothing about? Where was it?
I’m not a vegan but the recent “clean eating craze”, has left me fascinated by the trending dietary belief systems. Gluten free, low GI, macrobiotic, vegan… I wanted to learn more. Particularly about vegan food.
Growing up with the Belgian/French food culture, I’ve always been a little sceptical towards cooking without “the good stuff”, i.e butter, eggs, milk, cheese, cream…
Like most uninformed non-vegans, I thought vegans generally don’t eat much, that their food consists of boring ol’ carrots and lettuce for breakfast, lunch and dinner. But every vegan I’ve crossed paths with has sworn to me that their meals are rich, tasty and creative. Just as much so as non-vegan dishes. I believed them yet I was still completely unfamiliar with the cuisine. This was something I strongly felt had to change. I couldn’t possible spend another year or so in the healthy food-yoga-medition-hippie town of Ubud without knowing something as ‘basic’ as what modern vegan fare entails.
smoothie bowl for breakfast
As a means to broaden my knowledge of vegan cooking, I challenged myself to eat vegan -and only vegan- for 10 days. I knew committing to an intense trial period was the only way for me to really get into vegan cuisine. I thought the challenge would be relatively easy as we live in Ubud, where we eat out daily and the vegan-friendly restaurants are plentiful. At least easier than if I were to be doing the cooking.
So this blog post could actually be titled:
Vegan restaurants in Ubud that will blow non-vegans’s minds
vegan sushi
The takeaway on being a vegan in Ubud:
Ten days of vegan eating flashed by incredibly fast. I ate refined, creative and bold dishes that certainly satisfied my hunger. I drank frothy coffee based drinks which almost beat the ‘real deal’, indulged in beautiful rich deserts, some of which definitely beat the original recipes.Not once did I miss animal products -ok, maybe once, when everybody was getting French croissants- but generally speaking, it was not hard to eat vegan in Ubud. The whole journey into discovery was so exciting, I was looking forward to the next meal every single day.
Did I physically feel different? Not really, though I felt generally lighter. Now that the trial is over, I’m going on a serious diet. A financial diet, that is. All the restaurants I visited are of great quality and worth their prices but dining there does eat away at your budget. So for the next few days; local nasi goreng (fried rice) every day!
To complete this post, here are the restaurants where I ate – and licked my fingers- during my vegan discovery week. Some of the best vegan spots in Ubud.
1. SAGE
Definitely mine and many of Ubud healthy eating expats’s favourite. Even for meat lovers, this place is a must try. It makes you instantly forget there is such thing as animal products. This is undoubtedly the place to go, for a dabble in vegan cuisine.
vegan cuisine at Sage
Address: Jl. Nyuh Bulan 1, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud
2. BELOVED EARTH CAFÉ
A ‘sustainable eco restaurant respecting the earth and striving for harmony’. You’ll find Beloved Earth Café in the lovely gardens of ‘Swasti Eco lodge’. There’s also a pool which is open to restaurant guests.
offering a wide variety of vegan and RAW dishes and desertscolourful dining areaset in a beautiful eco garden
Address: Jalan Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kunning, Ubud
3. ALCHEMY
Vegan café, juice bar, health store, holistic clinic, organic farm… Alchemy is more than just a vegan restaurant, it’s almost a small community centre, priding itself in honouring mother nature and its inhabitants. Sound to ‘floaty’ for you? Forget about the latter and just remember this then: they have an excellent breakfast bar you should try.
from the breakfast barsustainable delivery boxes
Address: Jl. Penestanan Klod No.75, Ubud
4. YELLOW FLOWER CAFE
The big draw about this eatery is the setting. It feels as though you’ve landed in a Roald Dahl story. Getting there, is just as dreamy, you’ll have to climb a gorgeous set of stairs into Penestanan.
steps into Penestananstraight out of a children’s book (source)
Address: Sayan, Ubud (Climb the Penestanan steps in Ubud, turn right at the noticeboard, then follow the path)
5. CLEAR
“Eat the food you wish to be”, that’s Clear’s motto. Though I’m having a hard time conceptualise that saying, I’ve enjoyed eating their fresh, organic meals long before this little experiment started. Their juices and elixirs are sublime and worth a try too.
“A culinary innovation in healthy food”. You’ll find little kafé on the grounds of the Yoga Barn, an excellent spot to indulge in vegan renourishment after a sweaty yoga class. Those not into yoga, might feel more at home in the other Kafé which is located in one of the main streets of Ubud.
Macrobiotic bowl of steamed veggies
Address:
Kafé: Jalan Hanoman , Central Ubud
Garden kafé: Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud
7. DAYU’S
Healthy slow food. Now here’s a chilled out place where the chef really gets creative with fresh local produce. Dine here only when you have nowhere urgent to be though.
vegan burritoporridge with coconut milk
Address: Jalan Sugriwa, Ubud
8. DOWN TO EARTH (‘Earth Café and market’)
Restaurant, health store and (!!) vegan cinema. I bet you haven’t heard of vegan cinemas very often. Check it out!
Middle Eastern influenced dishesrestaurant annex health store
Address: Jalan Goutama selatan, Ubud
9. KISMET
Long before this vegan experiment, Kismet had already conquered a spot in my top 3 favourite restaurants in Ubud. It’s not just the food, it’s the interior, the über cool atmosphere and the beautiful people you’ll find there. My top recommandation is the “asian bowl with noodles and vegan satay”. Enjoy!
Kismet chill out areaasian bowl with vegan satay accompanied by a glass of jasmine kombucha.hello sandwich and desert counter, nomnomnom
Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud
10. FRESH (Taksu restaurant)
You’d never suspect you’re seated in the middle of jam packed Ubud. Taksu is a haven of tranquility serving excellent food. You’ll find the RAW and vegan menu in their terrace restaurant “Fresh”, whereas the garden café offers an attractive set of non-vegan meals.
the tranquil garden café
Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud
11. SOMA
“High vibes, organic delights”. Soma’s tagline summons it up perfectly.
coconut hang out at Soma
Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud
12. THE SEEDS OF LIFE
WOW! Not only vegan, but also RAW. This place was a true eye opener during my vegan trial period. I was so pleasently surprised by the dishes on the menu, I considered signing up for the Raw chef training they offer. “If this is what I’ll be able to cook, tell me where to sign up!” Unfortunately the “raw chef training” is too much above my budget so I’ll have to satisfy myself with dining in SOL.
dragon fruit chia puddingthe new seeds of life interiorpapaya pancakesI swear I did not JUST eat deserts during my vegan trial period
Address: Jalan Goutama, Ubud
13. BALI BUNDA (Bali Buda)
“Real food by real people”. Restaurant and health store near the yoga studio ‘Radiantly Alive’. Another great place for a satisfying vegan meal possibly in company with your non-vegan friends.
gado gado, an indonesian classic. Mixed veggies, rice and tofu with a spicy peanut sauce.
Address: Jalan Jembawan, Ubud
14. LIVING FOODLAB
You’ll find this place on the grounds of HUBUD, ubud’s first co-working space. With a nice view over rice fields it’ s a great spot to relax while you wait for your food to arrive.
Address: Monkey Forest No.88X, Ubud
There are quite a few more vegan friendly restaurants in Ubud but 10 days was too little time to try them all. Let’s say I’m keeping those for a possible round 2 of vegan eating in the near future.
Have you tried vegan cuisine? Did you like it?
*Special thanks to Sam and Forest for helping me with this post! *
I know the title sounds a little dramatic but hear me out…
After having lived a year in Bali we were sure a change of scenery would do us good. Word around the net was, Ecuador and Colombia were the new buzzing hot spots, perfect for digital nomads like us. So we crossed the globe in search of our new nomadic headquarters. We set foot in South America psyched up and convinced we would find ‘the one’. That one town that would feel like home. The one boasting everything a digital nomad could ever dream of: fast internet, an affordable cost of living, a moderate climate, an effortless visa policy and an amicable general atmosphere. Preferably set in a natural environment and with a variety of great eats. Talk about high standards…
stunning natural scenery
Once in South America, we couldn’t help but compare every potential living spot to our old (romanticised) lives in Bali. We’d always find something that wasn’t quite right; too cold, too urban, too expensive, too loud, too far from civilisation, too much this, not enough that… We didn’t fully realise it then, but we were actually on the look out for a second Bali. A second Ubud to be more precise.
We loved this gem in Ecuador but… there was a but.
Ecuador and Colombia are both absolutely stunning countries with mind blowing and incredibly diverse nature, friendly people, lots of exciting activities, great internet, endless sunshine, top notch food, good vibes… Yet we couldn’t see ourselves living in any of the towns and cities we visited. What was going on? I usually find a great deal of places I’d love to live in during my travels. I puzzled over the issue and finally understood what was going on. There was positively nothing wrong with these places, they just weren’t Ubud.
searching for a home in Ecuador
It was as though we had just gotten through a break up and were still hung up on our ex-love. Still thinking about her, comparing every new encounter to her, secretly wishing we were still with her… So the big question arose: do you return to your old love or do you push through until you’ve completely forgotten about her?
In any other situation, I would opt for the latter, no questions asked. But these were different circumstances; we didn’t leave Bali because we got bored of her or because we needed a break but rather for practical reasons. You could say, we never really broke up. Be it as it may, Bali was still in our heads and in our hearts. We were not done with her.
in Bali somewhere along the road
That is why we decided to move back to Ubud! Back to our old lives, with a new addition. Though our situation, goals and expectations are different this time around, it feels like we’ve landed exactly where we need to be. However, I can’t help but wonder, is this it? Will I never be able to live anywhere else because I’ve idealised life in Bali? Has the island ruined me for other places?
When I met my husband he charmed me with his vague plan to buy a motorcycle in India with which he’d traverse the country while documenting the journey on film. Ravished as I was, I didn’t really believe he’d pull through. But there I was, ten months later, on a plane to India to join in on the motorcycle adventure. A trip from South to North India on a 1979 Royal Enfield, “Bullet”.
bizarre checkpoint along the way
It would take a short novel to tell you the whole story, so I’ll stick to the most essential parts…
When I arrived in India Douglas and his travel mate had already bought motorcycles, driven through the most insane traffic situations, been severely ill and they’d had a few near death experiences. But worst of all, they’d just been robbed of thousands of dollars worth of filming equipment and the stories they had captured on film. That’s how we got acquainted with India’s police and red tape. I’ve blacked out the details, it really was that horrible.
The silver lining was that robbery happened in Varkala, a popular backpacker beach hangout perched on a steep cliff full of restaurants, bars and shopping stalls. So while we spent days at the police station fighting for paperwork to come through, we’d spend the rest of the time stuffing our faces with banana pancakes, drinking cool beers, joining spontaneous sing-alongs around the campfire and skinny dipping under the full moon with new found Scandinavian friends. You know, the usual backpacker’s stuff.
Varkala beach at sunsetnot a bad way to wait for paperwork to come through…
After a week of frustration, we finally got the paperwork out of the way and were ready to leave the tourist Shangri-La to dig into the “real” India.
let’s go!
With our backpacks strapped securely to the back of our motorcycle, we crossed the palm fringed Kerala. We parked “The Bullet” for a few days to spend some time gliding the backwaters on a houseboat.
view from our houseboat
We continued our trip passing through gorgeous landscapes and majestic cities…
Udaipur
…but also rather dull ones.
the hardest stretches were the ones with boring landscapes
We would drive all day, taking lots of breaks…
dancing with some school kids during the pee/stretch break in the middle of nowhere
…and we’d look for a place to stay once the sun started to set. If we were lucky we’d find a quaint little room with a view but more often than not, we’d have to take whatever was available. Thus we got our fair share of bedroom cockroach encounters, rat dropping surprises and malfunctioning fans in temperatures of 40 C° at night. Or even worse: nosy staff showing up unannounced in our room at night under pretext they’d “need something” from inside… WTF?!
cockroach-free room with a view…
The Bullet tagged along with us where ever we went, giving us the freedom to stop anywhere we wanted.
we took The Bullet on a passenger ferry to cross a river. In india everything is possible, all you need to do is ask.The Bullet got butchered on a a train ride…
Our motorcycle broke down often. We’d have it repaired if we happened to be near a town. If not, we’d fix it ourselves. With tape and rope. Yep, that works sometimes.
in cases of emergency, there is a mechanic in all of us
But usually there were more than enough people spontaneously getting involved, trying everything they could to get The Bullet running.
bystanders always got involved. Whether we’d want it or not.
Traffic in and near cities was absolute madness. You never know what you’ll encounter while driving. Anything goes.
dodging cows became a daily activitytraffic was always interestingelephants: part of every-day encounters on the road…
We met some interesting characters along the way.
talking to fascinating characters like this made our breaks extra compelling. I was drawn by his fabulous top.
We ate where the locals do.
street food
We tried to understand the essence of India. We were far from the tourist path and as close to life in small town India as possible. Even so, we knew we would never be able to truly make sense of things in this country. We are outsiders to the culture and always will be, no matter how hard we tried. To us, that’s the beauty of traveling in India.
beach in Kerala
My part of the journey ended in Delhi after having crossed the States of Kerala, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Gujarat and Rajasthan. Douglas continued further north through the Himalayas to Manali on his own.
having our own set of wheels allowed us to discover forgotten temples and ruins along the way
As you can imagine, insane things happened on this three month trip but as I mentioned earlier, it would take a novel to tell the full story. I would definitely rank this trip under the category “hardcore travel”.
Here are a few tips if you want to motorcycle through India:
1. Don’t. It’s dangerous. But if you really really must…
2. Travel in India without a motorcycle first. That way you’ll get to know the Indian way before taking on the responsibility of having to drive, deal with mechanics and cultural differnces, finding your way in sprawling cities… Only when you find that you can handle the Indian chaos, should you start to consider driving the motorcycle.
3. Upgrade your motorcycle’s horn. Make sure it’s loud enough to overpower the other horns. On Indian roads, it’s survival of the loudest.
4. Pack light, very light. It’s so much easier and more comfortable to drive with a light backseat. You may have noticed I’m wearing the same outfits in almost all of the pictures in this post. Do bring along some tape and rope, they always comes in handy!
5. Avoid cities and crowds. They’re complete mayhem.
6. If you are pressed with time, chose North India as your destination. The mountainous area north of New Delhi is far more laid back to drive through.
6. Finally and most importantly: Go with the flow. You can’t control most of what happens on the road. The sooner you accept that reality and let go, the sooner you’ll start enjoying the experience.
Motorcycling through India was not a relaxing trip. It was challenging, dangerous and frustrating.At the same time it was unlike anything else and incredibly rewarding. An epic journey for ever in our memories.
dirty, smelly and tired but 100% satisfied
Have you traveled by motorcycle? Where? Would you motorcycle India?
It’s been quiet on Travel Cake these past few months. Some of you have been asking me where I’ve been and what I’ve been up to. Well, I can tell you this much: I haven’t been slacking!
I’ve moved from Ecuador to Belgium where I have been slaving away at a 9 to 5 desk job. Being back in my hometown has been wonderful in terms of reconnecting with friends, family and the city. You may have read the mini luxury guide to Ghent I wrote for travel blog “Hippie in Heels”. You may also have read what I had to say about travel photography in an article for “Voyager for life“.
saying my goodbyes to Ecuador
But most importantly, I’ve been preparing for the trip of a lifetime. A new adventure, greater than any I’ve ever been on before.
Destination?
Motherhood.
That’s right,I said motherhood.
The journey began 10 months ago in Iran and continued in Ecuador and Colombia. It took a turn in the US and passed by the Netherlands. It then continued to Belgium where our daughter was born. Our ‘Mini Travel Cake’ is a sweet and funny baby with a traveller’s spirit. How could it be any different, she is only a month old and has already been to 6 countries!
Does this mean Travel Cake is turning into a mommy blog?
No. Plain and simple. It’s just not my cup of tea. However, I’ll probably publish an article related to kids and travel every once in a while. But in general I plan on publishing the same kind of content as I have so far.
As my pregnancy came to an end, I was stuck indoors with a swollen face hiding from the summer heat. Knowing that my life will never be exactly the same again, I thought about my passed travels. Motherhood is probably the most intense and life changing adventure of them all and I’m THRILLED not to have rushed into it. Thrilled to have taken time to see and experience as much of the world as possible while being relatively carefree. That’s why, as a tribute to carefree travelling, I will be posting a countdown of my 100 most memorable, essential travel experiences.
Here goes part 1, in no particular order:
100. Driving miles and miles on the rooftops of Nepali busses.
A drink, music blasting from your headphones and wind running through your hair… the best seats are in between the luggage on the roof of the bus!
Morocco’s riads are so romantic, so sophisticated and worth the occational splurge. I tried looking the part sippin’ on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco’s fancy riads. Click on the title to read about my weekend in Fez, Morocco.
98. Floating through life on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala
Waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways, sigh…
Water party in a pop-up day clubThis is a common street scene in Yangon during the water festival. Click on the title to read about our experiences during Thingyan.
Our first and very ill prepared trek at 4300m altitude. Click on the title to read a post related to trekking.
95. Rum cocktails in Castro’s Cuba
Cuba during Castro’s reign was such a bizarre yet unique and enchanting place. At least for visitors. Things may have changed but I’m sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!
After a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption. Click on the title to read about my hike in the Albanian Alps.
93. Spending the night in the garden of Eden in the Democratic Republic of Congo
Watching the sun set after a long walk in what seemed like the garden of Eden. DRC has fantastic nature, I wish I could say the same for the political situation.
A childhood dream came true when we spotted these cuties in the jungle of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Click on the title to read more about our time in Sulawesi.
91. Fishing, sunbathing and drinking on a catamaran in Los Roques, Venezuela
My first time on a caribbean beach, I was overwhelmed by the high tropical factor
90. Traveling by train in Russia
I got to know my cabin mates by communicating with signs on a 40 hour train ride to the Russian Arctic
Camping on a deserted beach in southern Oman.We stumbled upon some sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Click on the title to read about my road trip to Oman.
86. Learning to scuba dive
Wreck diving in the Philippines, a new world opening up…My first open water dive in Zanzibar, one of many more to come.
The more I talked to local people on both sides of the conflict, the more confused I was on the issues. No matter how much I hung out in the old streets of Jerusalem. Read more about my trip to Israel.Crossing the horrendous border to Palestine. Click on the title to read more about my findings in Palestine.
While Nepal is not particularly reputed for its “haute cuisine”, it does offer a few dishes that can tickle the taste buds.
Finding a tasty meal in Kathmandu is easy; there are foreign and local restaurants in abundance around the city. I had some authentic tasting Mexican food in a back ally somewhere in town, spent days ordering heavenly platters of goodness in a psychedelic vegetarian Israeli joint and savoured the best chocolate cake of Asia in a quaint road side café. All without much of a search. In Pokhara as well, there are enough great restaurants to make you gain the weight back you lost on a trek.
pancakes for breakfast in Kathmandu
The quest for a tasty meal becomes quite a bit harder once you leave the big cities. There is relatively little variation in the dishes and whether they’ll be bland or not, is always a gamble. These are the most common options you will find in Nepal.
Momo’s
This your surest option if you want to have a descent quick meal. A succulent ball of meat wrapped in a blanket of glutinous dough; momo’s are sold at every street corner. Though usually steamed, the less popular fried variation is also available. They are comparable to dim sum but with a filling packed with spices and herbs. You would never guess from the way they look but they’re often incredibly juicy and fragrant. The best place to eat them is at a food stall on the street. They’re steamed right in front of you; as fresh as can get. Every now and then you can coma across momo’s with fillings other than meat- Snickers for example…
fresh street momo’sdeep fried snicker momo’s, not a winner combination
King Curd
Juju dhau a.k.a “the King of all curds” is a speciality from Bhaktapur. It’s made with naturally sweet buffalo milk infused with cardamom, cloves, coconut or ginger, depending on the manufacturer. The added spices are almost unnoticeable while still making a world of difference. It is then stored in clay bowls in a naturally cool place.With no added sugar, the king curd serves as an excellent refreshing snack or breakfast food.
You can find Juju dhau all over town; just look for a (cardboard) sign with a drawing of a pot of clay or order it in a restaurant. Inform yourself so you get the real deal instead of the watered down version made with powdered milk.
incredible breakfast curd on a Bhaktapur rooftop
Dal Bhat
This dish is on every menu, no matter where you are in Nepal. I’ve tried it on several occasions but I was never convinced. I found it bland and unappetizing. Then again I’m not a fan of lentils in the first place and with it being the main ingredient of the dish… The only people I’ve heard say they really liked Dal Bhat were the Nepali, vegetarians and vegans. So who knows, you might enjoy it.
dal bhat, looking tastier than it is
Trekking Food
Learn to love ramen noodles and/or eggs, because unless you’re bringing your own food, that’s pretty much what you’ll live off during a tea house trek. Also on the menu are fried rice, soups and a pricey dal baht. Any dish containing rice or fresh ingredients will pricey in the mountains because they have to be transported all the way up to the villages.
I like a bowl of Shakpa soup, a Newari comfort food. It’s exactly what you need to warm up in the chilly (ice cold) evenings. That being said, I loved trekking food in general, not because of the taste, I mean let’s face it, ramen noodles and egg twice a day is not the most exciting dish. But I loved it because of the gorgeous views it would come with, made everything taste so much better.
simple food with a viewspicy buffalo meat
Masala Lassi
Just like in India, the Newari lassi is sort of a natural, watered down yoghurt drink. It’s all natural and you can add fruits or honey to sweeten the drink. Or even better, go for the masala lassi. Masala is a mix of spices, in this case it’s often black pepper. Black pepper in your yoghurt? YES! It’s a fantastic combination!
lassi any time of the day
Yak Cheese
Who would have guessed there is incredible local cheese in Asia? None of us European cheese snobs, that’s for sure! Yak cheese grew to become one of my favourites. It’s a yellow cheese with lots character, which doesn’t seem to melt. Ideal to bring along on hikes. A definite must try.
The food may not be the country’s highlight but Nepal makes up for what it may be lacking in the kitchen with mind blowing nature, beautiful people, fascinating culture, great art and so much more. You won’t be worrying about the food much.
Day trips… they’re convenient when you want to see as much of a region as possible in a short amount of time. However, there are quite a lot of these convenient trips that really don’t do the place justice. You find yourself with hundreds if not thousands of day trippers, packed in the same shops and highlighted areas, you miss the perfect lighting for incredible photo’s at dusk or dawn and most importantly, you by-pass the soul of that place.
It happened to me a few times while other on other occasions I saw it happening to others. I’ve put together a list of places where I’ve either been bummed out not to have spent the night or have been extremely happy not to be part of the day tripper groups visiting the town.
1. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Often done as quick side trip from Kathmandu, most visitors only get a glimpse of the cultural gem of Bhaktapur. A day trip here will allow you to spend a few hours in the central area, have lunch in a reputed restaurants’ and shop in one of the many little kiosks surrounding the main square. It’s a small city swarming with monuments, religious shrines, gilded roofs and palaces with elaborate carvings which you could explore in just a day. However…
Bhaktapur is like and open air museum only it’s not staged
What you miss by making it a day trip
The essence of Bhaktapur is only to be experienced at sunrise. That’s when the people change Bhaktapur into a magical place. Women and children step out of their houses with platters full of offerings and start their rounds for the gods. They stop at every shrine and every corner of spiritual importance to bring an offering, say a prayer and conduct complex rituals which you, as an outsider, couldn’t possibly wrap your mind around. The smell of incense fills up the crisp morning air while the weak sun rays highlight some of Bhaktapur’s finest art.
As I mentioned before, Bhaktapur is one of my 12 favourite destinations of all times and the mornings are exactly what made this place more memorable and alluring than others. Coming here on a day trip would mean missing the morning’s enchantment, when the tourists are still in bed in Kathmandu and the town is the playground of the people and their gods.
morning offerings
2. Guatape, Colombia
I visited Guatape as a day trip from Medellin by public transport. About halfway through the day, I kicked myself in the head for not being able to spend the night in this extremely colourful town.
Guatape
What you miss by making it a day trip
Though Guatape is very small and you definitely could see everything in just a few hours, what I missed was the great lighting you would find early in the morning and in the evenings. Even if you’re not into photography, you’ll probably want to extensively photograph Guatape. It might be the cutest, most colourful town I’ve ever seen. The bright sunlight during the day makes it tough to capture all the details without harsh shadows overcasting the scenes. We noticed the town turning even more stunning as the late afternoon sun set in. Unfortunately, that was also our cue to head back since we didn’t want to arrive at the Medellin bus terminal at night. Dinner and a cool beer at sunset would have been the way to end the day in Guatape.
wishing we could captured the town during sunset
3. Bethlehem, West Bank
Busloads of tourists coming from Jerusalem,Israel swarm the central square of Bethlehem in Palestine every day. The tours take care of the border crossing, a visit to the historical/religious sanctuaries and safely return the tourists back to Israel after having visited the supposed birthplace of Jezus Christ. Although I understand the importance for many to visit a place of such significance, there is much more to Bethlem/Palestine…
the wall separating Israel and West-Bank
What you miss by making it a day trip
By staying in Bethlehem we were able to visit (and spent a few nights in) a refugee camp, talk to the people of Palestine, get into the current culture, broaden our knowledge on the complex situation… Missing these experiences is missing the point of going to Bethlehem. If you want to see where Jezus was born, shouldn’t you see and experience the place it is today as well? My stay in Palestine was eye-opening on so many levels, I could only feel regret for the people who were missing out on the enrichment by only being exposed to a particular church and shrines. If you want to know more about travel in West Bank, read my post to find out what’s in Palestine.
kids at school in refugee camp, the market, Douglas getting a shave, Palestinian specialties, having mint tea on the street in Bethlehem (click to enlarge)
4. Pamukkale, Turkey
The cotton castle of Turkey, usually visited as part of a day trip from resorts on the Turkish Riviera. I was surprised to see hundreds of tourists on the site but only a handful of hotels in the town; hello day trippers.
Pamukkale
What you miss by making it a day trip
Stay the night in the town of Pamukkale and you’ll have the otherwise overrun by tourist cotton castle all to yourself at the crack of dawn. I was the first person to enter the site that day and had teary eyes when I was confronted with the natural beauty and serenity of Pamukkale. I hopped barefooted from one white rock formation to the next, laughing like a child. It was as though I had found a hidden treasure.
arriving at the cotton castle at sunrise
Half an hour after my treasure discovery came the first round of day trippers: the Koreans. While they were very respectful of the site and taking their time to look around, I could already feel a change in atmosphere. By the time the buses of Russians took the relay, the serenity was over. People were more interested in snapping themselves looking sexy than in the site. Beers were consumed, hamburgers and ice creams were spilt and what was a place of wonder just a few hours before, turned into a what resembled a crowed outdoors public swimming pool on a hot summer weekend.
I stayed until closing time but the serenity never returned. I understood it could only be there after the site had spent a night recovering from the assault of mass tourism. When I overheard some day trippers complaining about what a tourist trap Pamukkale is, I knew I had made the right move by spending the night and being the first visitor in the morning.
Photo shooting… Quite amusing to watch, but happy that was not ALL I got to see of Pamukkale (click to enlarge)
5. Scottish Highlands, Scotland
What was I thinking, booking a day trip from Edinburgh to The Scottish Highlands?! It seemed to be the only way to visit this area during my short stay in Scotland. Boy, did I regret that decision.
landscape that calls for a hike
What you miss by making it a day trip
As we were driving by the hills that changed colours as the clouds shifted, all I wanted to do was to get out of the van and start walking amongst them. But I couldn’t, we were on a tight schedule. Damn these day trips. So what you miss is basically everything. Yes, I saw Loch Ness and yes, I had a delicious meal (haggis, what else) in one of those typical Scottish pubs but I didn’t get to spend the night in a rustic B&B or a local sheep farm. Nor was I getting my hiking boots dirty or drinking whisky with Scotsmen. By trying to see too much too fast, I missed most of what the Scottish highlands have to offer.
Loch Ness in the rain, in a hurry
6. Mekong Delta, Vietnam
Most travellers wanting to visit the Mekong Delta book a day trip from Saigon. It usually consists of a boat ride down the Mekong (while wearing conical hats) with a few stops along the river banks showcasing “real life” around the Mekong. Sometimes the tours also provide bicycles which you ride along the river following your guide and the 20 other members of your group. After lunch and perhaps a few shots of snake-scorpion liquor, visitors are returned to the big city.
Mekong Delta (click to enlarge)
What you miss by making it a day trip
Making it an overnight trip gives you the freedom to do the same thing minus the groups and the tight schedule. Because guess what? “Real life” along the Mekong doesn’t run on a tight schedule.
We took a public bus to one of the towns by the Mekong then locally booked a boat in the morning -specifically asking for the conical hats. Since no other tourist had apparently spent the night in this town, we had the boat to ourselves. In the afternoon we rented bicycles and randomly started biking. No plan, just me, my friend, the Mekong and its inhabitants. We stopped whenever we wanted, spent an hour hiding from the the rain with a cup of white coffee in a local farmer’s house and headed back when the sun started setting. We drank beer and ordered the old “we’ll have whatever they’re having”. With no tourists in town we were (sort of) part of the Mekong community for two days. That’s something you can’t say if you’re passing by on a touristy day trip.
getting lost around the Mekong (click to enlarge)
7. Berat, Albania
As Berat is listed as a UNESCO hertige site, people tend to just want to tick it off their ‘to do list’ and move on. For some, Berat is mere a day trip from Durres on the coast or from the capital Tirana.
city of a thousand windows
What you miss by making it a day trip
If you’ve been reading this blog, you already know Berat’s beauty made me weep and that it was one of my highlights in Albania. Spending the night in the city of a thousand windows allowed me to take it easy in this gorgeous town and savour its charm.
I met a traveller who had been to Berat right before me and told me she wasn’t impressed. Immediately whereafter she admitted only having spent two hours there and not have made it to the beautiful parts. Because it’s such a slow paced town, it’s best visited at a slow pace. Spending the night allows you to do just that and get in sync with the spirit of Berat.
having time to have a cup of coffee in this nice Albanian lady’s home
8. Ubud, Bali
Don’t be fooled by Ubud’s popularity for long and semi long stays, the town get a lot of day trippers. Big buses clog up the main streets and the day trippers come pouring in. The typical day trip consists of hitting the Monkey Forest, doing some shopping in the main street, having an ice cream or perhaps lunch, then heading to a surrounding temple or viewpoint before returning to the coast.
the ‘oh so popular’ Monkey Forest
What you miss by making it a day trip
You’ll miss the plethora of incredible little restaurants tucked away in surrounding streets and the calm in the rice fields you find just outside the city centre… On a day trip, you’ll only have enough time to hit the main street which is not Ubud’s best asset. For that reason most the day trippers I have spoken with, found Ubud to be too crowded, too commercial and not authentic at all. Yes, that’s because they were in the wrong area during day tripper peak moment (between 10AM and 4PM). Spend the night -or even better, several nights- and you’ll see a completely different face of the town. A much prettier, more genuine and serener one. And please, forget about the Monkey Forest.
you will not find the cool, tranquil spots when coming to Ubud for the day
9. Petra, Jordan
Either from Amman in Jordan or Eilat in Israel, day trippers drive to Petra, spend a few hours exploring the main passageways then return to their hubs or set their journeys onwards.
entering Petra
What you miss by making it a day trip
After spending an entire day exploring Petra, getting lost in majestic caves and climbing the pink rock formations we were happy to casually hang around the site and spend some time with bedouins who had their tents set up near Petra. They offered us tea, played music around a small fire while the sun was disappearing behind the horizon. They shared tales about their families who have been living in the area for centuries. Later, a dinner fit for kings was prepared for us, just down the road from Petra.
On some nights, Petra opens its doors to present a candlelit version of itself. You may not want to dish up the extra cash for the candlelight show, but sleeping in the arid desert area surrounding Petra and meeting the inhabitants is an experience you don’t want to miss out on.
meeting the people, sharing food (click to enlarge)
Have you ever regretted a day trip because it should have been an overnight trip? Where was it?
Despite having lived in Indonesia for almost 2 years, I haven’t seen much of the islands yet. I will not leave this country again without exploring at least one more island! Additionally, I haven’t gone scuba diving in 3 years and I long to peek at the under water world again. Traveling to Flores would perfectly tick these two boxes. (image)
