Category: Rwanda

2014 Travel Summary

I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.

I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…

JANUARY…

SULAWESI- INDONESIA

I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.

Torajan funeral

tarsier

MALAYSIA

As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.

proud devotee

for the sake of devotion

the end of the pilgrimage

FEBRUARY…

BALI

As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…

last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)

MARCH…

HONG KONG

A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!

visiting Chinese temples

order after order of new flavours

MACAU

During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.

wide sunny boulevards

gamble paradise

APRIL…

BELGIUM

Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.

deliciously gross Belgian fare

a long time since I last saw spring

MAY…

ITALY

By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.

the red city seen from above

incredible food and wine in Bologna

JULY-AUGUST…

DRC

Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!

It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.

Congo’s stunning nature

safety first

kids in the village

crossing the Congo-Nile

UGANDA

On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.

buying goat brochettes from the bus window

Lake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele

RWANDA

Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.

sunset in Gisenyi

SEPTEMBER…

FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS

To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.

catching up in front of an old country house

clog boots

old fashioned fun

OCTOBER…

MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO

Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.

As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.

kids in Beirat, Albania

GREECE

I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.

Athens by night

wine tasting in the country side

NOVEMBER…

IRAN

Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!

Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.

inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahan

farmer in Kashan

out of this world rooftops

DECEMBER…

ECUADOR

The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.

What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…

on the look out for a new life in Ecuador

How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?

The post ‘2014 Travel Summary‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

January 5, 2015
24 Hours in Gisenyi, Rwanda

If there is one thing you’ll find in abundance in Rwanda, it’s pleasant, laid back towns. Perhaps so laid back , you might have to dig deep to find something to do. There is a fine line between chilling and being bored and that was my general state of mind in Rwanda; I was never sure if I was relaxing or slightly bored. Chances are, I’m just spoiled.

As I’ve mentioned in my previous article about Rwanda, it’s a country worth visiting, but maybe not as a main destination. If you’re in the area for gorilla trekking or volcano hiking, I highly recommend you swing by the lake side town of Gisenyi. Though I might be a little biased, having spent a few years of my childhood there, I think it may be Rwanda’s best town to hang out it in. 24 hours would suffice to sample the vibe. Add an extra day or two if you need some downtime.

This is how I would spend 24 hours in Gisenyi

Check in at Paradise Malahide hotel.

This popular hotel houses a staff that tries their hardest to make you feel at home. Clean small bungalows with an African inspired interior serve as rooms, all facing the hotel’s tiny beach. It’s located quite far from the centre of town so if you don’t have your own set of wheels, you’ll have to take the motor taxi which is an adventure in itself. It’s the right place to be if you’re looking for a peaceful stay. Rooms are quite pricey, but most accommodation in Rwanda is.

Reception area at Malahide

Have dinner in a local bar

If there is one dish Rwandans are great at, it’s BBQ’ed meat and fish. Go to a local bar and order some “brochettes and frites” with your beer. Bam, you’ve integrated in the local culture. The fries are served with mayonnaise -the good kind- something every Belgian will rejoice himself of.

We walked to an open air bar/restaurant right next to Paradise Malahide hotel and feasted on grilled beef skewers, fries and beer while enjoying the sun setting in the lake.

sun setting in Kivu lake

Breakfast in Paradise

Even if you haven’t spent the night in Malahide, it’s worth stopping by for breakfast. The presentation combined with the setting make their breakfast feel like such a treat. Again, it comes with a price tag but you get used to that in Rwanda.

organic omelette, crèpes, toasts, homemade jam and local thee/coffee… with a view

wake up slow

Head to the market

It’s basically your average big bustling African market, but if you’re anything like me and find all markets fun and interesting, you’ll want to hit this one too. It’s a great place to buy local fabric, which you can have tailored into a fashionable piece of clothing right on the spot. Bring an existing piece to have copied or have them make you a local statement piece. Rwandans are known throughout the region to be excellent tailors.

take your pick. photo by J. Rosenkrantz.

Stop at ‘Atelier des Poupée’

This organisation was founded by a French nun in the 80’s. Her goals was to provide widows with sowing skills and an opportunity to make an income. The atelier has been in the same place in Gisenyi ever since. The women make dolls with African skin tones, bags, wallets, and stuffed animals. All with recycled fabric. Every single item is made by hand and you can get a bag or doll custom made for a reasonable price. It’s small initiatives like these that I love to support.

signature dolls

leftover fabrics put to good use

Buffet for lunch

Buffets are the prefered dining style in Rwanda… And they should be! You get to load up your plate as much as you can and sample all the different dishes for a fixed price. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants offering buffets for lunch. Ask around to find out which ones are popular. Try Sambaza if you get the chance; literally meaning “small fish”, they are indeed tiny fish, usually deep fried and served with lemon and pili pili. A typical Kivu lake snack.

sambaza and frites. Photo by Sean J.

Afternoon and sunset at the beach

Though Rwanda is landlocked, Gisenyi has a decent beach by the shores of Lake Kivu. In the afternoons and during the weekends, the public beach is animated with children coming for an after school dip, showing off their salto skills. The calm lake is perfect for a swim and a lay in the sand. Some places rent out jet ski’s and motorboats; ideal if you need a little more action. Bring a Frisbee or a beach ball; you’ll make new friends instantly. Stay for sunset and you’ll see swarms of bats leaving their nests to start their evening hunt.

crown birds on the beach. photo by Alex Van den Daele

Catch a traditional dance show in a big tourist hotel

I know how this sounds; cheesy and ‘unauthentic’. But if you want to see the tall black men with blond hair do their traditional dance, these are the only places you will find them. These dances are hardly ever found in modern Rwandese society unless it’s for a wedding, birthday or as an opening act of an official event. The dancers are hired to put on a traditional show for parties and for visitors. It is still part of the culture but not so much in a spontaneous way.

We were lucky to see a show for free in our hotel. Though I found it quite impressive, I wouldn’t necessarily have paid for it or have changed my itinerary to see it. But that’s just me, I’m not particularly fond of cultural dances.

not used to watching traditional shows with tourist but fun either way

For the party animals: clubbing at White Rock

In my experience, travel in Africa leaves you dead beat at the end of the day. I rarely have any energy left to go clubbing, unless I’m staying in the same place for a week or so.

Loosing my edge? Maybe.

If you’re still feeling energised at the end of the day, white rock is probably the best place to shake your booty to the beat of Nigerian pop and American hip hop. There are several other places that will cater to your dancing needs. Things can change quite fast so ask locals which is the current ‘happening’ club.

A morning and lunch at Serena hotel

Whether you want to splash around in the pool or want to hit the gym, the Serena hotel is the place to be. They charge 10$ to spend a day at the pool included towels and a drink. The hotel is not just a glitzy place for a swim, it’s also of historical significance. It briefly served as the headquarters of the interim government that presided over the genocide of ’94.

Since you’re already paying for entrance, you might as well stay a little longer and have lunch on the terrace or by the pool. Get the grilled tilapia, it is incredible. The fish comes straight out of the lake on to your plate. The hotel restaurant offers many other dishes I wasn’t able to taste but judging from the other guests’ reactions as they took a bite of their dish, the food here is delicious.

Serena’s swimming pool

fresh tilapia

Leading up to the hotel is the ‘Avenue de la coopération’ perfect for a long stroll to digest the food and check out some of the crafts on sale along the way.

strolling down avenue de la coopération

The post “24 hours in Gisenyi, Rwanda” first appeared on Travel Cake.

November 11, 2014
Things you might want to know before going to Rwanda

Rwanda is tiny African country sandwiched between some of East and Central Africa’s biggest: Uganda, Tanzania and The Congo. Its landlocked position, recent turbulent past and small size could be reason to question its tourism potential.

Having lived in Rwanda during my childhood and remembering the places we’d visit during the weekends and holidays, I could only regard Rwanda as a fantastic tourist destination. However, when I returned to Rwanda two weeks ago, I saw the country in a different light. I was no longer the expat getting the most out of my country of residence: this time around I was just a simple visitor. The country has changed so much since I left in ’94, so I got to reevaluate it completely, almost as if it was my first time there.

visiting my primary school

Although I enjoyed my stay in Rwanda, I heard many travellers complain about theirs. Most of them were let down because the country didn’t meet their expectations. Their disappointment led me to reflect on some of the things to anticipate when you’re considering to put Rwanda on your travel itinerary.

It’s expensive

Well, at least compared to neighbouring Uganda and Tanzania. Everything is more pricey: transportation, food, drinks, safaris, activities… Especially hotel costs will eat away at your budget. To give you an idea, we were charged about €23 to sleep in a standard tent- breakfast not included. A budget private double room cost about €40 per night. Cheaper rooms aren’t hard to come by, but it usually translates to sleeping in a stuffy, windowless closet. You can easily get around on a tighter budget if you’re prepared to rough it. Either way, in terms of value for money, Rwanda just doesn’t deliver.

from our expensive tent

Rules are rules and you will respect them

Rwanda has implemented strict rules and regulations which people follow well. For example, it’s the first non-Western country where I’ve seen motorcycle taxi drivers consistently wearing protective helmets and carrying around a second one for their passengers. The driver will not accept a passenger if he/she does not wear the helmet. Believe me, I’ve tried. The Rwandese seem to respect the new laws which minimises chaos and disorder throughout the country.

helmets are mandatory

It’s modern and well organised

Especially in the capital Kigali. There are street signs, a movie theatre, several coffeehouse franchises, wi-fi everywhere, taxis look new, the streets are clean and alined with tall flowery trees, there are side walks… Buses run on time and are filled to capacity- as opposed to double or triple in Uganda. This is less the case in rural areas and smaller cities but even so, it’s still relatively modern and organised.

Kigali city tower

most establishments have decent wi-fi and 3G network works well

It’s quite safe- even after dark

There are many areas with street lighting in the cities and it’s not odd to see an expat jogging after sunset. That says a lot about safety if you ask me.

Non-biodegradable plastic bags are banned

They’re downright illegal. Upon arrival in the country, visitors’ luggages are checked for plastic bags. Anyone caught in the country using a plastic bag can get fined up to 150$. Store owners stocking them face one year of prison. It’s a harsh law but an effective one; you won’t see mountains of rubbish as you would in other African capitals. Rwanda is striving to become the world’s first plastic-free nation. A part from the thriving underground trade in plastic bags, it’s going in the right direction.

The roads are windy but in excellent condition

I would even say they are better than the ones in Belgium, Rwanda’s ex-metropole. Once you get off the beaten track standards drop but they remain OK. Driving a rental car should not be a problem unless you have a serious fear of heights. The road’s windiness can get to your stomach so if you’re prone to motion sickness, don’t forget to bring your pills.

well maintained, exotic roads

There is a strange language situation

English has only been an official language in Rwanda since 1994 and only in 2008 was the entire education system switched from French to English. French is still an official language alongside Kinyarwanda. It makes communication confusing; some people only know English -mostly in Kigali, others only know French and people with very little education only speak Kinyarwanda. As an English and French speaker, I found it awkward to start every single conversation guessing which language to use, mostly choosing the wrong one first.

So, is Rwanda a good travel destination or should you skip it?

The disappointed travellers I spoke to were looking for something Rwanda is not. They were looking for the raw, authentic, traditional Africa. They found Rwanda too clean, too sterile, too modern and to Westernised. Although these things are true, I found it rather refreshing to see a different Africa! A progressive Africa that is quickly moving forward, that is considerate towards the environment, that values expression through art, where thing are going well- at least on the surface.

That being said, I wouldn’t recommend it as a main destination for travellers looking for an essential Africa experience. It’s worth a detour when you’re in the area for example in combination with a trip to Uganda or Tanzania. If your trip is all about having a “gorillas in the mist” moment, then Rwanda is a must yet I’d still advise to add an extra destination to the trip.

Have you ever though of Rwanda as a destination? Africa in general?

The post “Things you need might want to know before going to Rwanda” first appeared on Travel Cake

August 22, 2014