Category: Africa

Birthdays Abroad

The past 7 years I’ve been so lucky to celebrate the start of a new life year abroad, either doing something exciting or lazing in the shade of a coconut tree. Because this year was so different, I thought I’d look back on those past birthdays.

Turning…

…22! Stargazing in Liechtenstein’s Alps

As wild camping is legal in Liechtenstein, my then boyfriend and I made our way to the Alps. We pitched a tent in a beautiful meadow and spent the evening celebrating under the stars with bubbles and smoked salmon. It was my first time camping in the wild and I loved being totally isolated in nature. Though I must admit, there were moments at night where I was convinced a mad serial killer was scratching our tent… Tsss, city girls…

the Alps…

bubbles and salmon

“bathing” in nature

…23! Exploring Marrakech and its bazaars

A birthday in the old city of Marrakech was a perfect ending to a two week trip through South Morocco and Western Sahara. We exchanged our dusty desert clothes for urban wear and spent the evening bargaining in the souk and sampling Moroccan wines on rooftop bars.

Djema el-Fna from rooftop

the damage

…24! Solo in Egypt

Instead of flying straight home after a conference in Egypt, I prolonged my stay to see as much of the country as I possibly could. Birthdays are usually spent with friends and/or family, but that time, it was just me. I was proud to be a 24-year-old assertive and mature enough to ‘survive’ the chaos of Caïro. I was proud to be fit enough to climb Mount Sinai for the sunrise. I was proud to be brave enough to travel solo in an unknown, male-dominant country. I felt lucky to have the freedom to do what I was doing.

fighting off touts around the pyramids

loving solo travel

Holy Mount Sinai

…25! On a 40 hour train ride across India

Being crammed on a stuffy Indian train might be one of my most unglamorous birthdays . A group of Indian men sitting on the bed opposite mine, staring at my every move. Rats sprinting across the wagon, passengers loudly clearing their noses by spitting everywhere, toilet floors inundated with urine… It wasn’t much of a celebration, but rather an extremely long two days to get through. After the 40 hour ride, I was treated to a huge cake and beautiful views over Udaipur.

I can stare right back…

delicious personalised birthday cake

Udaipur

…26! Searching for the best “pasteis” and Port in Portugal

What a road trip; driving from city to city and around the country side, sampling on all the goodness Portugal has to offer. Learning about the Portuguese cuisine and culture was my gift to myself.

Port wine served with a selection of fine cheeses

pasteis for the road

Belèm

…27! Love Cake in Kathmandu

We stalled our big hike in the Himalayas to get mentally ready for the trek. So I spent this birthday in Kathmandu visualising myself on the top of a mountain. I can’t remember specific details about that day except… Except the love cake… A famous chocolate cake that has been mentioned as a must-try since the 70’s hippie trail. I wasn’t expecting much -as usual when it comes to chocolate anything outside of Western Europe- but my mind was blown. I was utterly quiet for a few minutes, couldn’t believe I just tasted what I did. Pure bliss! I must admit, my opinion might have been influenced by the fact that I had been eating nothing but flavourless “dahl bhat” and instant noodles for two weeks, but either way, to this day I still think of the Love cake as my favourite chocolate cake EVER!

Kathmandu

Love Cake

…28! By the pool in Myanmar

With temperatures reaching 40°C, there wasn’t much else to do than lie by the pool in Bagan. Temple visits in the mornings and evenings, cooling off in the swimming pool during the day. A lazy 28th. I was surprised with a gorgeous and elaborate cake… with zero flavour -unless ‘fat’ counts as a flavour. I ended up ~~splitting~~ donating the entire cake to the staff members.

the only way to deal with heat

misleading cake

enjoying a good view

…29! Cheese and wine with family

This year no palm trees, no temples and no exotic food, but something that’s at least just as good, maybe even better: stinky cheese and red wine with my family in Belgium. It might not be a dream destination, but it’s exactly where I want to be!

What about you, is celebrating your birthday at home a “must”?

The post “Birthdays Abroad” first appeared on Travel Cake.

April 9, 2014
Fez, Morocco: a Perfect Quick Getaway

What is the perfect getaway anyway? For me, it’s spending a couple of days in a new environment. Leaving the old and familiar to take in new and exciting smells, tastes, sights and sounds. It’s getting a sensory overload, bringing you a renewed ‘joie de vivre’. It’s returning home relaxed, energized and inspired. I found it all during my December getaway to Fez, Morocco. Four days in Fez was all I needed to overcome the winter gloom creeping over my mood and to get the necessary strength to tackle the cold days awaiting in Europe.

There is nothing sunshine, Moroccan cuisine, a good dose of exotic culture and quality time with a loved one can’t fix!

Here’s how I experienced the perfect getaway in Fez.

Dump the city map

There is only one way to experience the old medina of Fez and that’s by getting lost in it. Just wander and enjoy not knowing where you’re going. Every corner feels like an important discovery especially since there are hardly any tourists during the winter.

narrow streets

markets

beautiful gateways

Shop or window shop

Fez has some gorgeous locally produced goods. High quality leather goods, silver jewellery, nougat, lamps, precious stones, argan oil from the South… The shop keepers are ferocious and cunning, so bring up your most assertive alter ego and operate your best bargaining skills.

buying nougat

beautiful lamps

selfie while drooling over lamps

Spend the night in a riad

The traditional Moroccan house (riad) really transports you to another world with its exotic grandeur. Riads are characterized by their (usually well decorated) inner garden/courtyard. When used as guest houses, you can be sure they are furnished in the most refined possible way, using local handicrafts. It’s the place to be for a relaxing “1001 nights” experience. Although many riads are luxurious and expensive, plenty of them offer budget/mid-range options.

budget riad room

breakfast in the December sunshine

If you can’t afford to stay in a riad…

Have drinks in a fancy Riad

If you can’t afford to spend the night, splurge for a drink! Dress up, get a drink and make the night count. Not something you do in everyday life.

fancy riad

inner court with pool

martini at the fancy riad

expensive but worth it

Taste “Pastilla”

Pronounced Bastila, the sweet and savoury meat pie has Andalusian-Arab origins. Slow cooked pigeon meat- although chicken is more commonly used nowadays- seasoned with a wide array of spices among which cinnamon, cardamon and black pepper. The meat mixture is wrapped in a blanket of phyllo dough, baked and finally topped with crushed almonds and icing sugar. Very unusual, one to try!

pastilla

Marvel at the golden gates of the Royal Palace

Or at least at its doors. The palace is not open for public, so you’re likely to be standing in front of closed gates. I found them beautiful, others found it a lame sight as you can not see the inside of the palace. I say, leave that to your imagination and check out the golden gates. They’re at least worth a photo stop, if you ask me.

royal palace

knocking at the golden gates

Visit a tannery

It’s fascinating to find out about the origin of your beautiful leather bag/shoes/insert almost anything. Visit the tannery, ask a few questions and learn all about the leather making process. It’s easy to get there: follow the arrows and follow your nose. As soon as you start smelling leather and piss, you’ll know you’ve reached your destination. Small tips for the guard or the worker explaining his craft are well appreciated, not to say expected.

meat rotting off the skin

drying skins

tannery in the medina

hard labor at the tannery

Learn to cook a tajine dish

Tajine dishes can be quite simple to make and easy to learn. All you need are fresh ingredients and the right spices. A secret recipe helps too. I got mine from a Moroccan CouchSurfer at a house party somewhere in the heart of the Medina. Alternatively, there are plenty of official cooking courses to attend in Fez. Recreating the dish once you’re back home, takes you back to your getaway within seconds.

learning to cook a simple tajine dish

to be enjoyed with friends

Get out of town

Walking around in Fez can take up a lot of your energy. Exchange the bustle of the city for a more peaceful setting in the partly excavated Roman city of Volubilis. Just 70 km away from Fez, you can find yourself in the middle of a stunning UNESCO sight, full of ancient ruins. Either take a taxi (1 hour) or catch the train heading to Meknès. It’s worth the trouble even for people who have a tendency to fall a sleep at archaeological sights!

out of town

Volubilis

Would you consider Fez as a (weekend) getaway? Where was your last getaway?

The post “Fez, Morocco: a Perfect Quick Getaway” first appeared on Travel Cake.

December 8, 2013
Special Places: Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda

Tucked away between dark forests of luxuriant foliage, wild gorillas and vast plains of savannas, is a magical place called Lake Bunyonyi. The lake, nicknamed “the place of little birds”, lies in southwest Uganda near the borders of Rwanda and DRC. The 29 hilly little islands scattered around the crater lake are excellent for some R&R right in the centre of Africa.

Lake Bunyonyi

Awakening the first morning there, I opened my eyes and saw the mist rolling in over the hills onto the glassy lake. The sun had just started shining and the birds were chirping a joyful song. “I can’t believe this is real”, I thought…

break of dawn

We were staying an open-air geodome, crafted with local materials. No doors, no windows, just a thatched roof and walls with a big opening in the front serving as a gateway to the outside world. From our bamboo beds, we could admire the lake while filling our lungs with the fresh scent of morning dew… So close to nature, yet protected from its harshest elements.

the geodome

View from the bed

eco-shower with a view

There was a serene silence around the lake. Aside from the occasional slow shuffle of a staff member passing by, the only thing you could hear during the day was the gentle breeze and the sound of birds and crickets.

In bed at night, I could almost hear the stars twinkling. It was like mother earth singing us a sweat lullaby.

Our days were spent spattering in the lake, canoeing to neighbouring islands, hiking, catching up on our reading and devouring the island’s delicious organic dishes.

paddling to another island

kids from the neighbouring island

enjoying the Garden of Eden with a cold lager

Lake Bunyonyi is were you go to take it easy. Ideal to unwind after some heavy gorilla tracking or after long days spent in safari vans. It’s a place of solace and tranquility, a place where you can really ‘just be’.

It’s a special and magical place in Eastern Africa.

Do you know a special magical place? Where is it?

The post “Special Places: Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda” first appeared on Travel Cake.

October 27, 2013
Backpacking in Africa? Yes you can!

First of all let me clarify that by Africa, I mean the sub-Saharan continent. It’s quite different from travel in North Africa which has a different set of “rules” to play by.

“I’d love to go to Africa some day, but I’m afraid it’s unsafe, too expensive and too difficult to get around. Can you really travel around as a backpacker?” That’s a question I’m often asked.

My answer is YES YOU CAN! -and it’s fantastic!

There seems to be general apprehensiveness amongst travellers when it comes to traveling in Africa. It’s a shame because ‘the dark continent’ is most definitely accessible. True, it’s not the easiest area to travel in -especially if you compare it with South East Asia- but it’s still very doable even for the unexperienced traveller. Budget-wise, you can make your trip very affordable if you don’t mind the occasional bucket shower and can handle a few rough edges.

upgraded bucket shower with a view

There are however, a couple of things to keep in mind before you start planning:

1. Realise that Africa is huge. Depending on how much time you have, pick one or two neighbouring countries to explore.

2. It’s essential that you choose the “right country” for you. Intrepid travellers could try places like Sudan, Mozambique, Malawi, Djibouti or any country that’s more or less politically stable. I would recommend beginners to start off with ‘easier’ countries that offer a minimum of tourist infrastructure. Places where you will meet plenty of other travellers and expats to exchange travel tips and ideas with.

Ghana, Senegal or Gambia are good options for West Africa. So are Uganda, Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia or Kenya in Eastern Africa. In Southern Africa consider Zimbabwe or Botswana. All of these countries allow you to travel around effortlessly by public transportation, lodge in hostels or homestays and they offer Western food options which come in handy when you’re tired of the African staples.

Though South Africa is a possibility as well, I wouldn’t classify it as a typical African country in terms of tourism as it has an endless array of travel possibilities for the visitor and is so modernly developed you could think you’re in Europe of the States.

3. Take into account that you’re looking at slow travel here. It’s quite common for buses, trains and boats to run late. When I say late, I’m not talking about the “crazy” 20 minutes we complain about in the West, but rather 5+ hours. Your vehicle may break down in the middle of nowhere or it may get stuck in a pothole at some point… This means your arrival time can ( and probably will ) get delayed -at least once during your trip. In other words, having a tight schedule is simply not an option.

stuck in the mud

4. The larger the region you want to explore, the more time you will spend on the road. Expect long hours in buses, boats, trains and minivans. Most of which won’t be the most comfortable rides you’ll have in your life. In your average African country, a 5 seat sedan fits 14. Easily. Sometimes you feel like you’re playing human Tetris.

4 people in the front, 10 in the back

5. Africa is not a place where you visit one attraction after the other as you probably would in Europe or Asia. It’s a place you experience by interacting with locals and taking your time to be somewhere without too much of an agenda. Spend several days in the same town to really get the vibe.

getting my hands dirty in the local kitchen

6. The food won’t always be all that. There are non-African dining alternatives especially in big towns and cities, but in most smaller towns you’ll be served the local staples. For truly delicious African food, make sure you score yourself an invitation to a wedding, birthday party, christening or any kind of celebration. That’s when all the mama’s show off their cooking skills.

not so amazing

no need to rough it to this degree either,unless you want to

the best sushi I’ve ever had was in Tanzania

7. The accommodation can get quite shabby at times. Unless you’re in a city or large town, there’s not always a midrange option. Often it’s either cheap and crummy or high-end luxury. Go for the cheap places and treat yourself every now and then with a more upscale stay, if your budget allows it.

upscale hotel with view on the national park

8. Whether you’re backpacking or not, safari’s are always an expensive affair. If that is something you want to do, keep a separate budget just for your safari. To give you an idea, at the time of writing the cost for a 2D/1N camping safari in Serengeti NP, Tanzania was $300 per person. And this was a decent deal with a local agent. There are cheaper safari’s available if you stay away from the most renowned parks.

safari

9. There are relatively few solo travellers in Africa so I would suggest you find yourself an awesome travel partner before leaving. Even though you could smoothly journey solo, you will have a better time traveling in pairs. Especially for women. You’ll feel more comfortable, it will dramatically cut the costs and it’s usually more fun when you have someone to talk to while you wait around for *insert anything*.

having fun while waiting for a boat

Traveling in Africa is very rewarding; it lifts your spirits and opens your eyes to some important issues the media hardly ever talk about. There are so many unspoilt spots that simply take your breath away. People are generally welcoming and excited to have a conversation with you. Let yourself get swooped off your feet by the laughter and rhythm in the air. If you’re still doubting whether or not you should backpack in Africa, all I can say, is DO IT! The adventure awaits!

backpackers race

Have you ever backpacked in Africa? Would you give it a try?

The post “Backpacking in Africa? Yes you can!‘ first appeared on Travel Cake.

August 28, 2013
Stone Town Street Scenes

It’s been two years since I was in Africa and I miss it. The warm atmosphere, the infectious laughter on the streets, kids singing and dancing all throughout the day, the sweet taste of exotic fruits, the sun that gives you that healthy glow… I even miss the pungent smell of sweaty African armpits -or maybe not so much. It’s a place I call home in some respects, it’s a place that makes me feel good and that lifts my spirits despite all the problems the continent is facing. Since I was feeling so nostalgic, I decided to share some photo’s of one of my favourite cities/town in Africa: Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania.

Let’s take a stroll through the winding streets of the old town

typical street

You could consider the town to be a maze of houses, boutiques, dive centers, mosques, restaurants, bazars… The streets are narrow and the architecture is a unique blend of African, Arab, Persian, Indian and European elements that come together in a remarkable, almost mystical way. I must add that most of the buildings are almost in ruins on the outside. I chose to consider it part of the charm.

carvings on the doors

Zanzibari door

I must have taken over a hundred photo’s of doors. The detailing is just awe-inspiring. Should I ever design a house, I would have the door imported from Zanzibar. And no, not just because that sounds cool!

beautiful mulata

cheeky kid

Another wonderful sight in Stone Town- and in the rest of the island- is the people. Kids are running around the streets, playing, laughing, batting their long lush eyelashes at you…

As for the adults, they are taking their time, doing their thing, living the island life… “Endesha Pole Pole”, swahili for ‘go slowly’.

locals taking their time

peek-a-boo

A walk through town is never complete without a visit to the market. It’s my favorite place at any destination to roam about.

market scene

rice- take your pick

sun dried octopuses

fresh marlin

There are a couple of classic tourist attractions to visit i.e historical building and monuments, but it all felt a bit forced for me to visit. I did have a quick look at some of them, but I soon realised that I’m just not that kind of tourist/traveler. There was one monument however, that really spoke to me. The ‘slavery memorial’ is situated in the old slave market. Stone Town was THE place to be for spice and slave trade back in the days. The memorial not only reminds us of these practices but also shows us how the slaves were sold; standing in a ditch, connected with heavy chains. It’s hard to believe this was reality.

former slave market

Back to getting lost in the narrow streets… Stone Town is relatively small which means that it never takes to long to find your way if you get tired of “being lost”. When the latter occurs, either turn to a local and ask for directions, you’re never more than 15minutes walk away from where you want to be. OR, an even better idea, take a coffee break. Production and consumption of coffee is an ancient Zanzibari tradition. Try a cup of ‘Liberica’, a rich and spicy blend found only on this island. I must say, this was one of the best cups of coffee I’ve ever had! Not to be missed!

walking the streets

coffee break

If you’re ever in Zanzibar and want to try the Liberica, this is a lovely place where you can have a few sips.

When the sun starts to set in Stone Town, it’s not time to go home yet. Sit on the beach for sunset, then keep walking until you reach the ‘ Forodhani Gardens’, a lively food market/ open air restaurant that starts after sunset. All sorts of skewered treats from the sea are presented to you and grilled on demand. Finnish off with a glass of freshly made sugarcane juice with a squeeze of lemon. Pure bliss!

dhows at sunset

fresh sugar cane juice

night market

I spent four days is Stone Town, which is more than the average visitor, but I never got bored. I took things easy, walked a lot, ate and drank like Swahili queen. The whole island has made it to my ‘return-list’.

Have you ever been to Zanzibar? Did you like Stone Town?

sisters

July 16, 2013