It’s been quiet on Travel Cake these past few months. Some of you have been asking me where I’ve been and what I’ve been up to. Well, I can tell you this much: I haven’t been slacking!
I’ve moved from Ecuador to Belgium where I have been slaving away at a 9 to 5 desk job. Being back in my hometown has been wonderful in terms of reconnecting with friends, family and the city. You may have read the mini luxury guide to Ghent I wrote for travel blog “Hippie in Heels”. You may also have read what I had to say about travel photography in an article for “Voyager for life“.
saying my goodbyes to Ecuador
But most importantly, I’ve been preparing for the trip of a lifetime. A new adventure, greater than any I’ve ever been on before.
Destination?
Motherhood.
That’s right,I said motherhood.
The journey began 10 months ago in Iran and continued in Ecuador and Colombia. It took a turn in the US and passed by the Netherlands. It then continued to Belgium where our daughter was born. Our ‘Mini Travel Cake’ is a sweet and funny baby with a traveller’s spirit. How could it be any different, she is only a month old and has already been to 6 countries!
Does this mean Travel Cake is turning into a mommy blog?
No. Plain and simple. It’s just not my cup of tea. However, I’ll probably publish an article related to kids and travel every once in a while. But in general I plan on publishing the same kind of content as I have so far.
As my pregnancy came to an end, I was stuck indoors with a swollen face hiding from the summer heat. Knowing that my life will never be exactly the same again, I thought about my passed travels. Motherhood is probably the most intense and life changing adventure of them all and I’m THRILLED not to have rushed into it. Thrilled to have taken time to see and experience as much of the world as possible while being relatively carefree. That’s why, as a tribute to carefree travelling, I will be posting a countdown of my 100 most memorable, essential travel experiences.
Here goes part 1, in no particular order:
100. Driving miles and miles on the rooftops of Nepali busses.
A drink, music blasting from your headphones and wind running through your hair… the best seats are in between the luggage on the roof of the bus!
Morocco’s riads are so romantic, so sophisticated and worth the occational splurge. I tried looking the part sippin’ on an overpriced martini in one of Morocco’s fancy riads. Click on the title to read about my weekend in Fez, Morocco.
98. Floating through life on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala
Waking up on the deck of our houseboat, having breakfast while we glide over the waterways, sigh…
Water party in a pop-up day clubThis is a common street scene in Yangon during the water festival. Click on the title to read about our experiences during Thingyan.
Our first and very ill prepared trek at 4300m altitude. Click on the title to read a post related to trekking.
95. Rum cocktails in Castro’s Cuba
Cuba during Castro’s reign was such a bizarre yet unique and enchanting place. At least for visitors. Things may have changed but I’m sure the rum cocktails are still just as delicious!
After a breathtaking hike, I reached the cabin of an Albanian family who welcomed me for tea and burek. Instant adoption. Click on the title to read about my hike in the Albanian Alps.
93. Spending the night in the garden of Eden in the Democratic Republic of Congo
Watching the sun set after a long walk in what seemed like the garden of Eden. DRC has fantastic nature, I wish I could say the same for the political situation.
A childhood dream came true when we spotted these cuties in the jungle of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Click on the title to read more about our time in Sulawesi.
91. Fishing, sunbathing and drinking on a catamaran in Los Roques, Venezuela
My first time on a caribbean beach, I was overwhelmed by the high tropical factor
90. Traveling by train in Russia
I got to know my cabin mates by communicating with signs on a 40 hour train ride to the Russian Arctic
Camping on a deserted beach in southern Oman.We stumbled upon some sea turtles laying their eggs in the sand. Click on the title to read about my road trip to Oman.
86. Learning to scuba dive
Wreck diving in the Philippines, a new world opening up…My first open water dive in Zanzibar, one of many more to come.
The more I talked to local people on both sides of the conflict, the more confused I was on the issues. No matter how much I hung out in the old streets of Jerusalem. Read more about my trip to Israel.Crossing the horrendous border to Palestine. Click on the title to read more about my findings in Palestine.
As I previously mentioned in my post on backpacking in Africa, travelling in that part of the world can add up to be quite pricey. But with a little imagination and a sense of adventure you can travel/backpack in Africa on a relatively low budget. Of course, it will never be as low as India, Nepal or South East Asia but still cheap enough that anyone could afford it.
One of the African destinations that lends itself perfectly for an interesting, budget friendly Africa vacation is Uganda. I’ve visited the country twice, both times as a backpacker using public transportation.
This is what our budget backpack trip in Uganda looked like:
COUCHSURFING IN KAMPALA
I’ve quite often used Couch Surfing in my “travelling career”; both as the guest and as the host. When I Couch Surf, I usually do so in big cities as they can be quite overwhelming when you first arrive and I prefer experiencing sprawling urban area’s through the eyes of a local or expat instead of following a guide book.
As it usually goes with CS, you don’t always know where you will end up. We were in luck in Kampala and stayed with an awesome expat in one of the city’s fanciest areas, Kololo. Our host took us to his favourite spots in town where we chatted and laughed over some cool beers and fresh tilapia.
spending the night in a stylish loft with a view over Kampalaweekend at one of Kampala’s lake side beaches with beers and new friends
On the second trip, I stayed in a quaint hostel (ICU guesthouse, dorm 15$) on the edge of town where many semi-long term volunteers reside. Alternatively you could stay at Red Chili Hideway, it’s also outside of town but with a swimming pool and a free daily shuttle to the city centre. Red Chili offers a good deal on trips to Murchison Falls as well.
EATING ROLEX AND OTHER STREET FOOD
When on a budget, street food is the way to go. In Uganda, you’ll find grilled kebabs and barbecued bananas/corn -to name a few- sizzling on every street corner. The most popular (and in my opinion most tasty) street side snack are rolex (comes from ‘roll eggs’): a tomato-onion-paprika omelette rolled onto a freshly baked chapati. One would really have to have two left hands to mess this snack up! We’d eat rolex from the street almost every day for lunch and it never disappointed.
getting rolex by the lake, a shocking sight for Ugandans as rolex is considered a snack for the poor. Some find it hard to understand why a “rich” tourist would choose to eat rolex.the smell of the grilling meat is often much better than the quality of the pieces on your stick, unless you like bouncy, chewy meat …I know these deep fried grasshoppers don’t look particularly appealing, but they’re delicious! Like a cross between salted nuts and potato crisps. Anyways, they’re much cheaper than the ones you get in trendy restaurants in the West nowadays!
SAFARI’S AND HIKES IN QUEEN ELISABETH NATIONAL PARK
Just having just crossed the border form DRC (that’s a story for another post) we were in desperate need for some luxury and internet. So we threw our budget out of the window (for a day) and checked into a higher end lodge. Considering most lodges in and around the African national parks often have rates starting at €250 per night, this lodge – Kingfisher Lodge Kichwamba- was a bargain at €160 a night, breakfast and dinner included for both of us!
Disclaimer: these were the rates in 2011, converted with an interesting currency exchange from US Dollar to Euro. Today’s rates in Kingfisher Kichwamba start at 205$ for a double room, half board.
R&R in paradise after roughing it in DRC.
It was exactly what we needed: relaxing by the pool, a western meal á la carte, getting some work done, a much needed wifi fix and a view to die for.
infinity pool with endless views over Queen Elisabeth National Parkspotted some elephants from our room’s porchnot a bad way to get some work done!
After soaking in as much as possible from our splurge, we returned to our backpacker’s reality the next day. We hitchhiked to Simba Safari Camp where we stayed in a dorm, talk about contrasts! It’s a great budget place to stay, they also offer private rooms.
hitchhiking on the equator
From there we arranged a boat safari on the Kazinga Channel, bringing along a cold beer to enjoy with the scenery. You don’t need to book a package tour, you can easily arrange transport to the departure point and buy a ticket for the boat trip once you are there. Though I can’t recall the exact price, I can tell you it was definitely less than 30$ per person.
crusing down the channel, spotting wild life and having a cold one… What a chilled out way to spend an afternoon!
Instead of booking a multi-day safari package, we hired a car with driver to take us on a game drive in the national park. Though Queen Elisabeth NP may be far from the most impressive safari I’ve been on, it very well is the cheapest. Perfect for animal lovers on a budget!
crown birds at dawncrater lakegetting close to some lazy lions
There’s plenty to do in QE National Park like chimp tracking or looking for tree climbing lions but we opted for a more economical activity: hiking in ‘Maramagambo Forest’. Since we already had a car and driver for the day, the only cost left was that of the entrance fee to the forest and a tip for the guide taking you along the trails, pointing out various species of primates, birds and medicinal plants.
Our main reason to hit the forest, was to see the massive python living in a bat cave. Apparently, it doesn’t hunt, it just opens its mouth and waits for one of the thousands of bats to fly in. This is all the python does, all day long. Therefore it has gotten so fat, it can hardly move. We were keen on seeing the spectacle. Unfortunately we missed the freak show as the python had already returned deep inside the cave after its daily suntanning moment, when it drags itself out of the cave.
a beautiful walk through the forest in search of the fat lazy pythonnow that’s what I call a bat cave!
TOTAL RELAXATION BY LAKE BUNYONYI
Next we headed to Lake Bunyonyi, if you’ve been following this blog for a while, you might have read my post on Lake Bunyonyi, my favourite spot in Africa so far.
Lake Bunyonyi
Both times we stayed in a magical place called Byoona Amagara, definitely the best value lodge I’ve stayed in. For just 15$ per person per night, we had a small geodome with private bathroom and a stunning view over the Ugandan lake. They also provide dorms (7$) if you’re really tight on cash but the beauty of staying here is undoubtedly the geodome experience. There are plenty of other places to stay on Lake Bunyonyi, I haven’t tried any of them as I’m totally hooked on Byoona Amagara…
(clockwise) typical Bunyonyi flowery tree, stretching with my sister on our geodome’s sun deck, boating on the lake, view from the bed in the large geodomethe small geodome, no doors. Just a mosquito net between nature and yourself.eco-shower with a view
The entire trip in Uganda took us about 10 days, travelling quite slowly, spending enough time at each destination. You could backpack the same trip in fewer days but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. If you have more time, why not add a stop in Jinja and/or a jaunt to Murchison falls to see more animals and a stunning waterfall.
Have you been to Uganda? Would you consider going?
One of the photography goals I’ve recently set for myself, is to focus more on themes: to capture recurring colours, patterns or situation. I find most of the themes I’ve been working around so far, quite average. I usually collect pictures of exotic drinks, dishes, mistranslations, strange signs and a couple of funny ones I’ll be sharing in future posts. That’s why it was quite a challenge to find suitable photographs to enter the “Explore the elements” contest organised by Thomas Cook.
Fellow travel blogger Colleen of “Colleen Brynn Travels“ nominated me to join the competition and it took me quite some time to browse through thousands of pictures, looking for shots that reflect the four elements, a theme that never really crossed my mind before. Since I love a good challenge, I kept searching and came up with these:
EARTH
After the rain (click to enlarge)
I took this picture in a small village in the hills of North Kivu in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Most of the children in this village spend their days exploring this earth shoeless. Visitors often wonder how these children are so full of laughter and happiness when they can’t even afford to buy shoes. My theory: being connected with nature and having the freedom to play unrestrictedly outside, brings greater joy than any material thing could ever.
WATER
Water brings life (click to enlarge)
A man in Myanmar teaches his 7 year old son how to catch dinner. Presence of lakes, seas and oceans make us feel happy and calm because we know that where there is water, there is life.
FIRE
Burmese woman and her guilty pleasure (click to enlarge)
I met this lady near a temple in Myanmar. We didn’t speak each other’s language but we shared laughter and exchanged sunscreens- traditional natural Burmese sun protection for a squirt of western SPF20. We didn’t connect through words but through spirit and energy. When she lit up her big cigar, I just sat next to her and together we watched the smoke dance around us.
AIR
Clothes above the clouds (click to enlarge)
This shot comes from the Himalayas in Nepal. As a visitor, covered head to toe in (expensive?) hiking gear, you pass by small places like these… Reminding you that what is a physical adventure and a vacation to you, is someone else’s daily life with quotidian routines and chores just like yours but in a different setting.
So as it turns out, I did find a secondary theme while “exploring the elements”… That of daily life. These are all travel pictures, but they’re not of tourist attractions or cultural festivals… They all reflect life in local communities which is exactly what the elements do: they are part of our lives, we deal with them on a day to day basis, we need them. Such great power!
Though I’m posting this rather close to the deadline, I’ll still nominate a few bloggers to enter the competition. -All very cool travel blogs, if you want to check them out
So you’ve decided to do it, you’re going to venture in what people find the scariest, darkest continent of them all. Let’s start by rectifying this misapprehension straight away, shall we.
Though there are some African countries that could qualify as somewhat “scary”, Africa is a huge continent. Did you know that Africa could easily fit the USA, China, India, Japan and Europe (Eastern and Western) all at once? How could a place this vast, possibly be generalised about, especially when it comes to safety, wealth, travel comfort, landscape or anything else for that matter.
true size of Africa- click to enlarge
Many travellers make it to Morocco, Egypt and Tunisia but never dare to wander more south, mostly out of fear. I won’t deny that the continent has its problems, but in terms of travel there is no reason to hesitate to chose Africa as a backpacking destination. That being said, it’s only natural to be at least a bit nervous about travelling to the ‘unknown’.
Every week I receive e-mails on this subject. Noob Africa travellers wanting to know where to go exactly. So I’ve come up with 5 of Africa’s most accessible countries; easy to backpack in, fantastic highlights, descent transportation, safe and a great introduction to Sub-Saharan Africa.
1. Tanzania: The Classic
Nothing wrong with a good classic. Going to Tanzania, you will not have any problems finding an easy tourist trail to follow while it’s just as easy to get off the beaten track. English is one of the official languages, so you should be able to communicate easily, even in small towns. The country offers a good mix of attractions: pristine beaches, mountains, scuba diving, rich cultural heritage, world class national parks… You’ll have the option to camp or to spoil yourself in the most amazing lodges and resorts. Tanzania has been hosting foreign visitors for decades, leaving it with a well developed tourist infrastructure.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Safari in Serengeti and/or Ngorongoro crater
scenes from Disney’s Lion King in Tanzaniacamping in Serengeti park is a good budget option and tons of funyou’re very likely to spot all your favourite savanna animals
* Chimpanzee tracking, Fishing and snorkelling in and around Tanganyika Lake
* Beaches, dolphins, culture, spices and architecture on the islands of Zanzibar and/or Pemba
white sand beaches of Zanzibarcarvings on the doorscocktails on the beach
* Scaling Mt. Kilimanjaro
if your budget doesn’t allow to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, you can always admire it from afar. photo by Roman Boed
2. Senegal and The Gambia: The beating heart of Western Africa
Since The Gambia lies completely inside of Senegal you could easily visit both countries. Note that they each have very different personalities. Senegal, just like Tanzania, has seen visitors for decades. Though most stick to beach resorts, there is quite a good tourist infrastructure. In terms of communication, French is one of the official languages so unless you speak it, you’ll have to dialogue with gestures, which works just fine, especially in a country where laughter is more important than words. In The Gambia, however, you will be able to get by with English. It’s an up and coming vacation destination often nicknamed ‘Africa for beginners’. Due to its small size, you could experience The Gambia in just one week.
A few backpacker highlights:
* visit Dakar’s markets
Sandaga market, loud and colourful, just like Senegal. photo credits.
* Join a fisherman’s crew in Gambia
ask a fisherman if you can join him for a catch. Or sit back and watch them haul in the nets. Photo by Wendy Moriarty
* Live jazz and strolling around the historical town of Saint-Louis, Senegal
streets of Saint-Louis Senegal. Photo by Jan Dudas
3. Uganda: Mellow and diverse – can be combined with Rwanda:
I was surprised to see how easy it was to navigate through Uganda while lugging around a backpack. At the same time, it feels like an adventure asking people for rides on the back of their motorcycles. In both countries English is widely spoken, which facilitates contacts with locals. Uganda has a lot to offer: Safari’s by foot/4×4/boat, explosive waterfalls, vibrant nightlife, adrenaline sports, lakes and gorgeous hikes. There is a reason why they call it the “Pearl of Africa”. Adding Rwanda to your itinerary will bring contrast to your trip. Both countries have gorgeous lakes, offer the opportunity to go gorilla tracking and are a bird watcher’s paradise, yet they are so different to one another culturally. Keep in mind that you’ll need a higher budget for Rwanda.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Gorilla spotting
face to face with a gorilla in the wild, a one of a kind experience presumably worth that big chunk of your budget. old school picture by G. Vanden Daele
The best thing about Ghana must be its diversity and contrasts. You will find dry lands on one side of the country, lush tropical forests and waterfalls on the other. Muslim, Christians and animists living side by side in harmony. Traditional villages run by a chief versus big bustling cities where you can find high quality australian steak as well as fashionistas parading through the streets. With its position on the West Coast of Africa, Ghana played a crucial role in the slave trade with the Americas. You can learn more about it in the former slave markets on Ghana’s coast. Again, English is one of the official languages and there are plenty of intercity buses giving you the opportunity to travel around the country with minimum plans and good comfort.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Cape Coast and Elmina Castle
immerse yourself in the history of slavery. you can actually still reek the human despair in the castles dungeons.when the history lesson gets too intense, put the past behind you and enjoy a fresh juice on the beach while the fishermen prepare to cast their nets.
* Trekking in Kakum National park
mandatory photo with crocodile
* Experiencing village life and visiting Larabanga mosque
scenes around the villagesnot your typicial mosque, Larabanga. Photo by Felix Krohn
5. South Africa: Western comfort in an African robe
If you are yearning for some African flavour but are not quite ready to leave your western comfort, South Africa is the place for you. It has everything you would find in a modern European country combined with Africa’s typical ‘joie de vivre’. From transportation to hostels and top notch sites, South Africa has everything you need for a surprising backpacking trip. I write surprising because wine tasting, surfing and sharing a beach with penguins are probably not the first things that come in mind when you think of Africa. Note that you may need a slightly higher budget than in the African countries mentioned above.
A few backpacker highlights:
* Cape Town and surroundings
Cape town has something to offer to every type of traveller. Also check out the surrounding vineyards and Robben islands. Foto by Jens
* Hiking in Drakensberg
the Drakensberg plateau borders with the tiny country of Lesotho, so if you’re looking to explore an extra country, why not cross the border. photo by Laurel Robbins
* Wild life spotting in Kruger National Park
because most first time Africa travellers want to see some game during their trip.
Backpacking in Africa is very different than backpacking in places like South East Asia. It’s a little tougher and more expensive. But the interactions with local people is much more intense as is the “I’m an explorer”-feeling. Though intrepid travellers would also very much enjoy the destinations listed above, I would probably add some other, more “edgy” recommendations. That’s for a future blogpost!
Have you backpacked Africa? Would you like/dare to?
I spent the last two days of 2014 in a haze, trying to beat jetlag and fatigue from the long transatlantic flight to South America . During the turn of the year hug exchange and fireworks, I was soundly asleep, enjoying my warm bed. Despite the endless wishes and photo’s circling on social media, I’ve only just realised a new year has begun. I blame the altitude.
I wasn’t expecting 2014 to be a busy travel year but it turns out, it’s impossible to make such predictions. At least for me it is. 16 countries in one year without being on a round the world trip, I’m still not quite sure how it was possible. Let’s see…
JANUARY…
SULAWESI- INDONESIA
I started 2014 in the heart of Toraja in Sulawesi, Indonesia. A start of a new year with good friends and 24-hour fireworks on every street corner- often handled by children ages 4 and up. It was magical, crazy and unexpected. The festivities were followed by an off-the-grid vacation, exploring the colourful underwater world, deserted beaches and untouched jungles. I spent a day at a local funeral and saw one of my travel dreams come true: seeing a tarsier in the wild. I really had to keep myself under control not to kidnap one of these cute monkeys.
Torajan funeraltarsier
MALAYSIA
As if the Torajan death rituals weren’t culture shock enough, I faced yet another cultural eye-opener: Thaipusam in Kuala Lumpur. I gasped at the men, women and children as they devoted themselves to their gods by suffering the pain of large metal hooks piercing through their skins during their pilgrimage to Batu Caves. Read my blogpost about the festival here.
proud devoteefor the sake of devotionthe end of the pilgrimage
FEBRUARY…
BALI
As we knew this was going to be our last month living in Bali, we spent the month doing the touristy things we hadn’t done yet. Visiting those temples we never got around to, taking that silversmith workshop we’d been meaning to… We spent time with friends, I took up yoga, went surfing and learned to cook healthy organic meals. I always seem to have the best time when I know a journey is about to end…
last weeks in Bali friends and indulgences (click to enlarge)
MARCH…
HONG KONG
A long time wish list destination finally within my reach. I found the city to be a perfect balance between East and West. I got to see quite a bit of the city even though my travel companion was injured during the trip and our activities consisted -for a large part- of sitting down options, or let’s just say eating. I’m not complaining. So far it’s the only place in the world where I actually like dim sum- how’s that for a travel snob quote?!
visiting Chinese templesorder after order of new flavours
MACAU
During our stay in HK, a short stint to Macau diversified the trip. Having spent a year in Asia, I felt home in the European-looking streets of Macau. I found out spending money in casino’s wasn’t really my thing.
wide sunny boulevardsgamble paradise
APRIL…
BELGIUM
Home sweet home. I thought it would be a good idea to surprise all our friends and family by showing up unexpectedly into their homes. Nobody had any idea we had arrived in Belgium. The joy was intense, so much fun. I immediately resumed work at my previous job and spent my free days filling up on breads, chocolates, Belgian beers and my favourite local dishes as well as catching up with family and friends. It was incredibly challenging to fit into the society I now felt so alienated to. I spent my birthday in my home country with my family, something I hadn’t done in years.
deliciously gross Belgian farea long time since I last saw spring
MAY…
ITALY
By may, I reached a high in missing my life in Asia. However, I decided not to sulk but take advantage of the perks of living in Europe. I took some time off to explore the culinary side of Italy. Well, a small side at least. Bologna brought me to me knees with it’s incredibly pure and fresh food. I hadn’t even left the city and was already talking about coming back.
the red city seen from aboveincredible food and wine in Bologna
JULY-AUGUST…
DRC
Three years after my last visit I returned to the motherland. People called me crazy for going to one of the most dangerous corners in the world; North Kivu in the Democratic Replublic of Congo. Even crazier for bringing along 20 muzungu’s (swahili for white people) and “endangering” their lives. It wasn’t nuts to me: part of my family lives there, so why would I not go? I was right not to second guess my instincts; the trip went smoothly, the muzungu’s had the time of their lives and oh… I got married!
It was however, an exhausting journey, more so mentally than physically. Perhaps that’s the reason why I have not yet found the courage/energy to write about the trip. But byy now, it’s at the tip of my fingers and I’m eager to share the stories with you very soon.
Congo’s stunning naturesafety firstkids in the villagecrossing the Congo-Nile
UGANDA
On my way to the DRC, I revisited my favourite spots in Uganda. Lake Bunyonyi still holds a special place in my heart. This time my entire family joined me, which made it even more special. Thinking I will return to Uganda again next time I visit DRC, I once again skipped the gorilla tracking. Still don’t think this was one of my brightest moves.
buying goat brochettes from the bus windowLake Bunyonyi with family. Photo by A. Van den Daele
RWANDA
Having spent part of my childhood in Rwanda, I had my heart set on going back and mirroring childhood memories to reality. I began to search for our old house and schools which I found after several hours of “Sherlock Holmes-ing”. I was surprised at how much the country had changed post-genocide. Most of my favourite places in Gisenyi, the town I had lived in, where still up and running, with a fresher look nonetheless.
sunset in Gisenyi
SEPTEMBER…
FRIESLAND- THE NETHERLANDS
To finish off summer in Europe, Douglas and I treated ourself to a weekend in Friesland visiting our friends we had met in Bali. Strangely enough, Friesland always sounded like an exotic place, despite the fact that it’s right next door. We were lucky to arrive during a festival celebrating Friesland’s cultural heritage. It was time travel at it’s most possible. We went ‘supping’ on the Frisian waterways, which is actually a great way to explore the region.
catching up in front of an old country houseclog bootsold fashioned fun
OCTOBER…
MONTENEGRO, ALBANIA, KOSOVO
Montenegro and Albania both surprised my with their natural beauty and quaint historical towns. Though both countries are completely different, I found both nationalities to be warm, helpful and welcoming even to a dark skinned traveler like me. In Montenegro I enjoyed my solo travel in Kotor and around. Albania stole my heart the minute I set off to the mountains, which was undoubtedly one of my travel highlights of the year. I highly rate both countries and am looking forward to visiting again as soon as possible.
As for Kosovo, I only spent a short time and visited just one city, Prizren. I found the cobbled stoned city rather pleasant and spend the afternoon strolling around and drinking coffee in the riverside café’s. I loved the fact that it was an unexpected visit, but I needed more time to really get to know the country.
kids in Beirat, Albania
GREECE
I went to Greece to attend TBEX, the biggest travel Blogger’s conference. I had a magnificent time getting to know other travel blogger, the city of Athens and myself on a professional level. After the conference I took some time to see more of the country. I visited Corinth, went on a wine tasting tour in the country side and learned to cook traditional Greek food in one Athens oldest taverns. I’ve yet to see the rest of Greece, so I consider this trip as the intro.
Athens by nightwine tasting in the country side
NOVEMBER…
IRAN
Why Iran? People asked me. I couldn’t even remember the exact reasons, it had just been on my mind for such a long time, for so many reasons. When I stumbled upon a dirt cheap ticket, I didn’t think for a moment and booked straight away. The time had finally come. I ignored all the safety warnings, I was convinced they were overstated, especially coming from people knowing nothing of the country. Boy am I glad I did!
Iran made me laugh, cry, think, marvel, love, feast and fantasise. The architecture is stunning, nature is untouched and diverse, the history is absolutely astonishing and the food is truly unique. But most of all, the people… They are the best part of Iran. Lots of Iran posts coming up soon.
inside Sheik Loftollah Mosque, Esfahanfarmer in Kashanout of this world rooftops
DECEMBER…
ECUADOR
The last destination of 2014, Ecuador. Not for travel but possibly to live for a while. We set off to Ecuador knowing very little of the country yet planning to live there. That’s what makes the start of the new year even more exciting.
What will happen next? I have no idea and I like it that way. I’m excited about what 2015 will have in store. I’m pretty sure there will be less international travelling, but then again, I said the same thing last year…
on the look out for a new life in Ecuador
How was your travel year? Were you able to full fill some of your travel dreams?
If there is one thing you’ll find in abundance in Rwanda, it’s pleasant, laid back towns. Perhaps so laid back , you might have to dig deep to find something to do. There is a fine line between chilling and being bored and that was my general state of mind in Rwanda; I was never sure if I was relaxing or slightly bored. Chances are, I’m just spoiled.
As I’ve mentioned in my previous article about Rwanda, it’s a country worth visiting, but maybe not as a main destination. If you’re in the area for gorilla trekking or volcano hiking, I highly recommend you swing by the lake side town of Gisenyi. Though I might be a little biased, having spent a few years of my childhood there, I think it may be Rwanda’s best town to hang out it in. 24 hours would suffice to sample the vibe. Add an extra day or two if you need some downtime.
This is how I would spend 24 hours in Gisenyi
Check in at Paradise Malahide hotel.
This popular hotel houses a staff that tries their hardest to make you feel at home. Clean small bungalows with an African inspired interior serve as rooms, all facing the hotel’s tiny beach. It’s located quite far from the centre of town so if you don’t have your own set of wheels, you’ll have to take the motor taxi which is an adventure in itself. It’s the right place to be if you’re looking for a peaceful stay. Rooms are quite pricey, but most accommodation in Rwanda is.
If there is one dish Rwandans are great at, it’s BBQ’ed meat and fish. Go to a local bar and order some “brochettes and frites” with your beer. Bam, you’ve integrated in the local culture. The fries are served with mayonnaise -the good kind- something every Belgian will rejoice himself of.
We walked to an open air bar/restaurant right next to Paradise Malahide hotel and feasted on grilled beef skewers, fries and beer while enjoying the sun setting in the lake.
sun setting in Kivu lake
Breakfast in Paradise
Even if you haven’t spent the night in Malahide, it’s worth stopping by for breakfast. The presentation combined with the setting make their breakfast feel like such a treat. Again, it comes with a price tag but you get used to that in Rwanda.
organic omelette, crèpes, toasts, homemade jam and local thee/coffee… with a viewwake up slow
Head to the market
It’s basically your average big bustling African market, but if you’re anything like me and find all markets fun and interesting, you’ll want to hit this one too. It’s a great place to buy local fabric, which you can have tailored into a fashionable piece of clothing right on the spot. Bring an existing piece to have copied or have them make you a local statement piece. Rwandans are known throughout the region to be excellent tailors.
This organisation was founded by a French nun in the 80’s. Her goals was to provide widows with sowing skills and an opportunity to make an income. The atelier has been in the same place in Gisenyi ever since. The women make dolls with African skin tones, bags, wallets, and stuffed animals. All with recycled fabric. Every single item is made by hand and you can get a bag or doll custom made for a reasonable price. It’s small initiatives like these that I love to support.
signature dollsleftover fabrics put to good use
Buffet for lunch
Buffets are the prefered dining style in Rwanda… And they should be! You get to load up your plate as much as you can and sample all the different dishes for a fixed price. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants offering buffets for lunch. Ask around to find out which ones are popular. Try Sambaza if you get the chance; literally meaning “small fish”, they are indeed tiny fish, usually deep fried and served with lemon and pili pili. A typical Kivu lake snack.
Though Rwanda is landlocked, Gisenyi has a decent beach by the shores of Lake Kivu. In the afternoons and during the weekends, the public beach is animated with children coming for an after school dip, showing off their salto skills. The calm lake is perfect for a swim and a lay in the sand. Some places rent out jet ski’s and motorboats; ideal if you need a little more action. Bring a Frisbee or a beach ball; you’ll make new friends instantly. Stay for sunset and you’ll see swarms of bats leaving their nests to start their evening hunt.
crown birds on the beach. photo by Alex Van den Daele
Catch a traditional dance show in a big tourist hotel
I know how this sounds; cheesy and ‘unauthentic’. But if you want to see the tall black men with blond hair do their traditional dance, these are the only places you will find them. These dances are hardly ever found in modern Rwandese society unless it’s for a wedding, birthday or as an opening act of an official event. The dancers are hired to put on a traditional show for parties and for visitors. It is still part of the culture but not so much in a spontaneous way.
We were lucky to see a show for free in our hotel. Though I found it quite impressive, I wouldn’t necessarily have paid for it or have changed my itinerary to see it. But that’s just me, I’m not particularly fond of cultural dances.
not used to watching traditional shows with tourist but fun either way
For the party animals: clubbing at White Rock
In my experience, travel in Africa leaves you dead beat at the end of the day. I rarely have any energy left to go clubbing, unless I’m staying in the same place for a week or so.
Loosing my edge? Maybe.
If you’re still feeling energised at the end of the day, white rock is probably the best place to shake your booty to the beat of Nigerian pop and American hip hop. There are several other places that will cater to your dancing needs. Things can change quite fast so ask locals which is the current ‘happening’ club.
A morning and lunch at Serena hotel
Whether you want to splash around in the pool or want to hit the gym, the Serena hotel is the place to be. They charge 10$ to spend a day at the pool included towels and a drink. The hotel is not just a glitzy place for a swim, it’s also of historical significance. It briefly served as the headquarters of the interim government that presided over the genocide of ’94.
Since you’re already paying for entrance, you might as well stay a little longer and have lunch on the terrace or by the pool. Get the grilled tilapia, it is incredible. The fish comes straight out of the lake on to your plate. The hotel restaurant offers many other dishes I wasn’t able to taste but judging from the other guests’ reactions as they took a bite of their dish, the food here is delicious.
Serena’s swimming poolfresh tilapia
Leading up to the hotel is the ‘Avenue de la coopération’ perfect for a long stroll to digest the food and check out some of the crafts on sale along the way.
It’s been exactly 10 years today since my first independent trip. By “independent” I mean a trip not organised or sponsored by parents, school or other organisations… I started traveling on my own dime in my own time.
I was 19 when a friend and I booked a ticket to Zimbabwe, a country we knew almost nothing about. Feeling all kinds of cool, we embarked on an adventure that would shape the people we’d become. We spent one month in Zimbabwe having the trip of a lifetime, spontaneous and crazy. Upon my return home I had coffee with a friend curious about the journey. I told her in detail how incredibly exciting it had been. Followed by: “I want to travel all the time. I want be a globetrotter!”
“When can you start calling yourself a globetrotter?” she asked. I had no idea, but set the bar at ‘having been to one third of the world or 64 countries’.
In the ten years that followed I never really kept this goal in mind and my definition of a globetrotter has significantly changed since then. I wouldn’t define it through an amount of visited countries, but that’s another discussion. Anyway, before I knew it, I had become a globetrotter according to my -outdated- definition.
With all these destinations on my travel resumé, I’m often asked which one is my favourite. It’s a hard question! Not per se because I love all the places equally but because so many have deeply touched me, one way or another.
While I was stuck on an 8-hour bus ride last week, I started pondering the question more seriously. Is it really impossible to pick a favourite? Yes, it is. However, I have managed to narrow down the list to a top 12. I was aiming for 10 but…
So in no Particular order
1. Oman
I loved everything about Oman. Taking a road trip through the country introduced me to the genuinely warm and friendly people, the tasty food, interesting wildlife, the stunning landscapes featuring all my favourite colours… With the risk of sounding cliché, Oman truly is a hidden gem.
wadi perfect for a dip
2. Shops, drinks and midnight snacks in Shoreditch, London
I’ve starred London as a favourite a long time ago but discovering the neighbourhood of Shoreditch has taken London to the next level for me. It’s the London that pushes you out of your comfort zone, inspires and yet feels comfortable and homely.
some amazing food in the area
3. Motorbiking Ubud and surroundings, Bali
This probably doesn’t come as a shocker seeing I chose to live here for a year. The spiritual atmosphere, the lush green surroundings, the smell of incense filling the air and the sweet Balinese people. This island is just… Magic
rice fields around Ubud
4. Backpacking through Zimbabwe
As I mentioned above it was my first trip. It wasn’t so much the attractions that made this one of my favourite destinations, it was more a general feeling of well-being. Drinking a beer under the African sun with some of the world’s most impressive waterfalls in the background while making lasting friendships with locals and expats.
sunset over the Zambezi
5. Cruising through Lake Connemara and surroundings, Ireland
The Irish country in general, is incredibly beautiful. I can see why it has been an inspiration for quite some songs, literature and poetry. In fact, you could possibly say that the Irish countryside is poetry.
somewhere along the way
6. Living the island life in Zanzibar
I’ve had to wait 15 years to go to Zanzibar and when I finally did, it was even more jaw-dropping than expected. The water is of the bluest blue, the earth is red, spices are abundant and there is always a freshly caught fish grilling on some coals. You can feel the mystic that comes with the historic crossroads of cultures.
Zanzibari fishing village
7. Morocco
Every time I go to MoroccoI’m amazed at how much I love the country. Why amazed? Because it can be quite tantalising at times. The touts in the touristy cities like Marrakech, constant bargaining, scams… Yet I can’t help but adore this country and I gladly accept its flaws.
Morocco’s most iconic town Aït Benhaddou
8. Venturing out into Timor-Leste
It was such an out of the blue destination on which I couldn’t find much information online. I had no expectations whatsoever, perhaps that is why I was so pleasantly surprised. Beside the gorgeous scenery it was the big unknown and the sense of adventurethat made this place special to me. Timor-Leste offers a challenge to the seasoned traveller.
coastline in Dili
9. Hiking Dominica
Rugged and unknown- I’m starting to see a pattern here- Dominica has the ideal reggae/Caribbean island vibe. My entire stay there I felt like an old-school explorer, minus the compass. It’s the only island in the caribbean that has no white sand beaches which is why it’s often overlooked by package and cruise tourists leaving it unspoilt.
every now and again a sign reminds you that you’re not the first person to explore the island
10. The old city of Jerusalem, Israel
Israel is a generally a great tourist destination but the old city of Jerusalem… That place vibrates. You feel and see emotion wherever you look. You can breathe history, touch spirituality, smell culture, taste tradition. The old town of Jerusalem is a truly unique place.
quiet streets of the old city
11. Dancing to dirty reggeaton beats in Venezuela
Less than an hour after exiting the airport of Caracas, I told the friend I was visiting: “This is it. I belong in this country”. We laughed, but I wasn’t joking. Venezuela has it all: the beaches, the rain forests, the deserts, the mountains, the party cities. It has attitude, it has style. The only thing lacking is a decent government to help the country grow to its full potential.
Los Roques, my first encounter with the caribbean
12. Bhaktapur, Nepal
Besides the fact that practically the entire city is made of wood and full of temples, it was the general “zen-atmosphere” I might have enjoyed most in Bhaktapur. I’d wake up every morning to the sound of prayers and gentle bells followed by the smell of freshly brewed tea. Enchanting! Also, it’s where you can find the best curd in the world!
Bhaktapur in the morning light
I may be a globetrotter in the eyes of my 19 year-old self but in the eyes of the woman I am today, I still have a long way to go.
I just couldn’t resist to list some honourable mentions: Copenhagen, Cuba, the forests of Washington State, Singapore, Amsterdam, The Sinai (Egypt), Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda) and New York City.
Rwanda is tiny African country sandwiched between some of East and Central Africa’s biggest: Uganda, Tanzania and The Congo. Its landlocked position, recent turbulent past and small size could be reason to question its tourism potential.
Having lived in Rwanda during my childhood and remembering the places we’d visit during the weekends and holidays, I could only regard Rwanda as a fantastic tourist destination. However, when I returned to Rwanda two weeks ago, I saw the country in a different light. I was no longer the expat getting the most out of my country of residence: this time around I was just a simple visitor. The country has changed so much since I left in ’94, so I got to reevaluate it completely, almost as if it was my first time there.
visiting my primary school
Although I enjoyed my stay in Rwanda, I heard many travellers complain about theirs. Most of them were let down because the country didn’t meet their expectations. Their disappointment led me to reflect on some of the things to anticipate when you’re considering to put Rwanda on your travel itinerary.
It’s expensive
Well, at least compared to neighbouring Uganda and Tanzania. Everything is more pricey: transportation, food, drinks, safaris, activities… Especially hotel costs will eat away at your budget. To give you an idea, we were charged about €23 to sleep in a standard tent- breakfast not included. A budget private double room cost about €40 per night. Cheaper rooms aren’t hard to come by, but it usually translates to sleeping in a stuffy, windowless closet. You can easily get around on a tighter budget if you’re prepared to rough it. Either way, in terms of value for money, Rwanda just doesn’t deliver.
from our expensive tent
Rules are rules and you will respect them
Rwanda has implemented strict rules and regulations which people follow well. For example, it’s the first non-Western country where I’ve seen motorcycle taxi drivers consistently wearing protective helmets and carrying around a second one for their passengers. The driver will not accept a passenger if he/she does not wear the helmet. Believe me, I’ve tried. The Rwandese seem to respect the new laws which minimises chaos and disorder throughout the country.
helmets are mandatory
It’s modern and well organised
Especially in the capital Kigali. There are street signs, a movie theatre, several coffeehouse franchises, wi-fi everywhere, taxis look new, the streets are clean and alined with tall flowery trees, there are side walks… Buses run on time and are filled to capacity- as opposed to double or triple in Uganda. This is less the case in rural areas and smaller cities but even so, it’s still relatively modern and organised.
Kigali city towermost establishments have decent wi-fi and 3G network works well
It’s quite safe- even after dark
There are many areas with street lighting in the cities and it’s not odd to see an expat jogging after sunset. That says a lot about safety if you ask me.
Non-biodegradable plastic bags are banned
They’re downright illegal. Upon arrival in the country, visitors’ luggages are checked for plastic bags. Anyone caught in the country using a plastic bag can get fined up to 150$. Store owners stocking them face one year of prison. It’s a harsh law but an effective one; you won’t see mountains of rubbish as you would in other African capitals. Rwanda is striving to become the world’s first plastic-free nation. A part from the thriving underground trade in plastic bags, it’s going in the right direction.
The roads are windy but in excellent condition
I would even say they are better than the ones in Belgium, Rwanda’s ex-metropole. Once you get off the beaten track standards drop but they remain OK. Driving a rental car should not be a problem unless you have a serious fear of heights. The road’s windiness can get to your stomach so if you’re prone to motion sickness, don’t forget to bring your pills.
well maintained, exotic roads
There is a strange language situation
English has only been an official language in Rwanda since 1994 and only in 2008 was the entire education system switched from French to English. French is still an official language alongside Kinyarwanda. It makes communication confusing; some people only know English -mostly in Kigali, others only know French and people with very little education only speak Kinyarwanda. As an English and French speaker, I found it awkward to start every single conversation guessing which language to use, mostly choosing the wrong one first.
So, is Rwanda a good travel destination or should you skip it?
The disappointed travellers I spoke to were looking for something Rwanda is not. They were looking for the raw, authentic, traditional Africa. They found Rwanda too clean, too sterile, too modern and to Westernised. Although these things are true, I found it rather refreshing to see a different Africa! A progressive Africa that is quickly moving forward, that is considerate towards the environment, that values expression through art, where thing are going well- at least on the surface.
That being said, I wouldn’t recommend it as a main destination for travellers looking for an essential Africa experience. It’s worth a detour when you’re in the area for example in combination with a trip to Uganda or Tanzania. If your trip is all about having a “gorillas in the mist” moment, then Rwanda is a must yet I’d still advise to add an extra destination to the trip.
Have you ever though of Rwanda as a destination? Africa in general?
