Author: Travel Cake

  • Myanmar: land of infinite Buddhas

    Myanmar: land of infinite Buddhas

    Myanmar is often called “land of a thousand pagodas”. Thousand is definitely inaccurate. It surely feels like ‘a thousand’ should be replaced by “hundreds of thousands”. The Burmese dedicate their lives to honouring Buddha and constructing pagodas/stupas/temples. Each stupa or temple is filled with relics or statues of Buddha. Building a stupa ensures the believers of Myanmar several extra karma points, allowing them to be reincarnated on a higher spiritual level in their next life and eventually reach “nirvana”.

    Traveling through the country, I noticed that the Burmese have a unique way of practicing the Buddhist religion. In this version, there is a heaven and a hell. Hell is depicted as a dark place deep under the ground where sinners reside temporarily before being reincarnated. Terrifying monsters spend their days torturing said sinners. Heaven is portrayed as a beautiful setting in the sky where there is no hunger, no pain and no sadness. It’s both a mental and physical nirvana.

    very graphic depiction of hell
    very graphic depiction of hell

    Back to the stupas and why there are so many. Constructing a stupa dedicated to Buddha clears off a large amount of committed sins. It was confirmed to me that most people in Myanmar believe that building and sustaining several temples outweigh a lifetime of thieving, cheating, misconduct or even murder. Although the latter would require an extra large amount of temples. One still has a good chance of crossing the gates to the afterlife paradise providing he/she has enough cash to build a couple of pagodas.

    I can’t help but wonder if that’s the reason why everywhere you turn, there are stupas, temples and absurd amounts of Buddha statues. Is this evidence of unacceptable behaviour of the rich and powerful throughout the ancient and modern history of Myanmar? I wonder…

    grave Buddha's
    grave Buddhas

    After 3 weeks in Myanmar, I remember thinking: “how is this even possible?!” We would be in the middle of nowhere, not one human soul to be detected, yet there it was… A temple emerging from the untamed wilderness, covered with thousands of tiny Buddhas. Mind blowing at first, overly predictable later. I found out the hard way there is such thing as a “Buddha overdose”. I could no longer be bothered to enter another temple or look at another Buddha.

    Places of prayer are one of my favourite points of interest in foreign countries. I have seen countless temples in India and Nepal, huge amounts of cathedrals in Europe and a large number of mosques in the “Arab world”, but never have I seen this many houses of prayer in one country.

    ancient Buddha's
    ancient Buddhas
    mini
    tiny wall Buddhas
    standingb
    32 storey Buddha
    graves2
    Buddha highway
    can you spot the 15 Buddha's
    can you spot the 15 Buddhas?
    tt
    the smaller the Buddhas, the more you can fit in one temple
    reclining Buddha wth bizarre entrance
    reclining Buddha with bizarre entrance location
    wise
    accidental Buddha

    sitting

    Even though by the end of the trip I had seen enough Buddhas for the next few years; I enjoyed getting to the point of disinterest.

    Buddha wallpaper
    Buddha wallpaper

    Have you ever gotten insensible to a local custom or curiosity while traveling?

     

     

  • New Year’s Eve abroad: Hogmanay Street party, Edinburgh

    New Year’s Eve abroad: Hogmanay Street party, Edinburgh

    As the end of the year approaches, that question starts popping up again… “So… What are you doing on New Years’s Eve?” Then start the discussions, the dilemma’s and the decision making process.

    Two years ago, a few of my friends and I decided to welcome the new year abroad. Instead of spending our money on brand new flashy party outfits and tickets to some overpriced party, we booked cheap flights to Scotland. That year we celebrated by joining the Hogmanay street party in Edinburgh.

    A very wise decision as Hogmanay, turned out to be an incredible way to start off the new year with a BANG! Literally… I don’t know how many tonnes of fireworks were rocketed to the sky, but I’d definitely had my dose of fireworks for the following 2 years!

    All through the night, the streets of Edinburgh were filled with laughter, singing, skipping, drinking, dancing, eating, twirling, hugging…

     

    So what exactly goes on during Hogmanay in Edinburgh?

    There are many street concerts entertaining the crowds. Dance, sing along, make friends… Do as you please. The entire event takes place outdoors, in the city centre, so you’re are free to roam around or move from one performance to the next, keeping in mind that there are around 80 000 attendees to navigate through.

    ...people... lots of them
    …people… and lots of them

     

     As the night progresses, the mass grows, the streets fill up and the atmosphere heats up. When midnight approaches; the bands stop playing and the crowd flocks toward the main square.

    Countdown begins!

    At 00:00, impressive fireworks light up the sky. The Scots then proudly sign “Auld lang syne”. Tens of thousands of people sing (more or less) simultaneously… Heart warming! Hugs, kisses and best wishes are exchanged between friends and random by-standers, it’s magical!

    fireworks and camera's, edinburgh
    fireworks and camera’s

     

    After the remarkable moment, a couple of dj’s play some tunes and you can dance on the square. Once the music dies down, a challenge awaits; getting off the square! As all the participants try to leave at the same time, you can imagine there is a lot of pushing and shoving. All you can do is go with the flow and let it happen.

     fireworks, new year's eve
    so many fireworks you don’t know which side to look

     

    That can be the end of the evening or you can step into one of the bars to continue the party.  

    "Sin", a club/bar in a church
    “Sin”, a club/bar in a church

     

    Some tips for an awesome Hogmanay street party

    Protect yourself against the cold weather the best you can. As I’ve mentioned earlier, the event is outdoors and, well, it’s winter! Be prepared for rain as well!

    Most people bring their own drinks in plastic bottles. It’s too hard to get a drink from a bar or a stand when you’re gathered before and after the countdown. It will save you a lot of trouble and a few pennies. 

    faux fur, home mixed drinks and plastic cups
    faux fur, home mixed drinks and plastic cups

     

    – If you hate the masses and drunk people, you might want to reconsider Hogmanay… OR challenge yourself to try it anyway!

    It’s well worth staying a few extra days to explore the city. Edinburgh is a beautiful gothic city with a strong personality. There is much to see, to do and to taste!

    haggis
    haggis
    Scotch Whisky tasting
    Scotch Whisky tasting

    – There are plenty of other activities going on around New Year’s Eve. You can participate in a torchlit procession through town or ride the ferris wheel. Let your inner child go nuts in the ‘winter wonderland’ attractions. For the real daredevils, why not start the new year fresh by taking a splash in the river -for charity. Find out more about Hogmanay and the other events here

    – If you’re on a budget, you’ll find lots of cheap food in town, admittedly not the most healthy food, but hey, you’re on holiday… I’d also recommend you stay as far away from the shops as you possibly can! There are sales during this period and you could easily be tempted!

     

    Spending New Year’s Eve in Edinburgh, was an unforgettable experience. I’d do it again in a heartbeat! Not only is the event well organised, but the Scots are warm, welcoming and know how to throw a party! 

     

    Have you already made plans for New Year’s Eve? 

    The post “New Year’s Eve abroad: Hogmanay Street party, Edinburgh” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • What’s in… Palestine?

    What’s in… Palestine?

    Israel is, agreeably, a popular travel destination that sees millions of visitor each year. But what about Palestine? As it is often forgotten by travellers or ignored because of its size, ‘danger’ or whatever the reasons may be.

    I felt the need to find out…

    What’s in palestine?

    Very competent barbers.

    Like in the olden days, they use a sharp knife to shave every single facial hair off the surface. Complementary head massage at the end.

     barber palestine
    trust the barber

     

    Bethlehem and Nazareth; birthplace and hometown of Jezus Christ. 

    Pilgrims cross the border from Israel and make a quick stop to Jezus Christ’s place of birth. A grand basilica -church of Nativity- was built on the spot where said birth supposedly took place. As you can imagine, the town has a plethora of kitsch souvenirs on sale everywhere.

    touristy

     

    Hummus and falafel galore!

    There is some argument between Israel and Palestine on the origin of these dishes, but let’s not nitpick about who started it or who did it better… At the end of the day, you will find top-notch hummus and falafel in Palestine. Some of the best I’ve ever eaten!

    hummus and falafel
    hummus and falafel

     

    Lively market scenes…

    As in every Middle Eastern country, there is shouting, haggling, laughter and various smells of spices, meat and fruit whisking by.

    market Palestine
    at the market
    having a hot mint tea just outside the market
    having a hot mint tea just outside the market

     

    Israeli military men and women armed to the teeth

    This is a phenomenon you see in both Palestine and in Israel. It’s very unusual for most of us to see heavy ammunition resting on the hip of a 19 year-old, while they’re having a laugh and a smoke. You get used to it… eventually.

    army
    army

     

    A concrete wall that’s 8 meter tall and segregates Israelis from Palestinians. 

    The extensive wall surrounds the Occupied Territories and is equipped with militarised watch towers overlooking both sides as well as snipers making sure nothing or nobody tries to cross. Palestinians use the wall space to express their dreams, wishes and the injustice they feel is done to them.

    wall palestine
    walking around the endless wall
    wall with watch tower, palestine
    watch tower and palestinian art
    wall palestine
    expression and protest via street art
    wall art, palestine
    wall art

    Massive refugee camps

    When I heard about the ‘refugee camp’, I thought of the camps I had seen before in war zones; temporary blue tents, white bags of rice and flour, people standing in line to get some food. That’s not what the Palestinian camps are like. They are “permanent” refugee camps. Small concrete houses/rooms next to one another, housing several member of the extended family. They have schools, mosques and playgrounds. People have been living in these camps for years and probably will keep living that way for a while.

    We stayed in one of the camps and were shown around by a resident; a 25 year-old man who has been living there his entire life. He told us about his struggles, his daily life and openly shared his opinions. If you have the opportunity to visit the West Bank, make sure to visit Dheisheh Refugee Camp. Even if you don’t spend the night, it might help you get some insight on the conflict’s history and the current developments.

    Dheisheh Refugee Camp
    Dheisheh Refugee Camp
    kids at school in the camp
    kids at school in the camp

    So what else is in Palestine? 

    Things you would never believe if I told you so.

     

    So is Palestine worth a visit? Absolutely.

    Contrary to popular belief, it’s fairly easy for many nationalities to enter Palestine and the locals are very pleased to receive independent visitors.

    Is it dangerous? Some places are. Beyond the protests happening in some villages, life goes on. Generally speaking, if you stay away from the protests, there is not much danger for you as an outsider. Check the current political situation before you decide to cross the border!

    peace
    peace…

    After years of traveling, this is one of the off -the-beaten-track destinations that really touched me. It’s a place we’ve heard so much about in the news and it seems as though the “shock value is gone down and so has the media coverage. Eventually, it has been “forgotten”.

    I choose not to write politics, but visiting Israel and Palestine, is a trip involving politics to some degree whether you like it or not. Both places are impressive in their own ways, couldn’t we all just get along? *Dreams…

    peace

     

    Have you ever considered visiting Palestine? Do countries with an unstable political character scare you off as travel destinations?

    The post “What’s in… Palestine?” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • 5 Quirky Things To Do in Manila

    5 Quirky Things To Do in Manila

    Manila is a vibrant city where everything seems to be possible. People are loud, full of life and know of no embarrassment- at least that’s what it looks like to an outsider. I only spent a couple of days in the metropolis, but I immediately LOVED it. It’s fun, hectic, crazy and weird. There’s no other place quite like it. So I put together a list of the quirky things I did in Manila, hopefully it inspires you to discover some of Manila’s quirks!


    1. See the pro’s at work after a cockfight 

    Although cockfighting is popular in several countries, there aren’t many places where it’s perfectly legal to do so in the foreseen cockpit arena’s. In these arena’s the cock’s fight till death.

    But what happens to the wounded winner? I always thought they were put out of their misery, plucked and prepared for dinner. But that’s not the way they do it in Manila! The wounded winners are brought to the “cock surgeons” who patch them up quite professionally. Their wounds are examined meticulously, cleaned up with antiseptic and carefully sown up… All right outside the arena. And here I thought the excitement of a cockfighting arena was quirky enough… These improvised surgery stations haven proven to be even more so.

    cockfighting arena
    at the arena
    cockfighting Philippines
    cockfighting as a national sport
    the doctor will fix it
    the doctor will fix it
    chickencut
    cleaning up
    chicken wounded
    closing up the wounded winner

    TIP: “La Loma cockpit” in Quezon City is a great place to see the fights and the surgeons at work.

     

    2. Be a rockstar for a night with “Rockeoke”

    Why would you settle for regular karaoke when you can have a live band headbanging while accompanying your singing? Filipinos take their karaoke very seriously and have taken it to the next level. A live band plays the requested songs and all you have to do is (get drunk first,) look fabulous and sing your heart out.

    everyone can be a rockstar...
    anyone can be a rockstar…

    TIP: during the past decade, at least half a dozen people in the Philippines have been murdered after singing Frank Sinatra’s “My Way”. The ‘my way murders’ have even caused the song to be banned from some karaoke bars. You’ve been warned!

     

    3. Visit the Chinese Cemetery, where graves have toilets and air-con

    The Chinese like to treat their dead well. VERY well. Their graves are mind-boggling! Most are equipped with at least a toilet and a mailbox- how else would you send letters to your deceased family members? Some have air-conditioning, others are two stories high. Some have jacuzzis and wifi, others even have a full time guard standing by their “entrances”… Most of these graves are bigger and more luxurious than my house!

    It’s not everyday you get to roam around endless streets of fancy shmancy zombie cribs”. Visiting this cemetery is not only quirky; it’s a real eye-opener on cultural differences regarding the after-life.

    chinese graveyard, manila
    basic toilet and sink
    chinese graveyard, manila
    wo storey church-like grave
    chinese graves, manila
    personalised simple graves
    chinese graves, manila
    mansion graves with pet dogs

    TIP: the cemetery is enormous. You could walk around for days and still not see everything. Hire a guide at the entrance for a maximised experience. They are caretakers of the cemetery and know the area by heart. They will show you the most impressive graves and will tell you all about the why’s and the how’s. Besides they are hilarious, in true Filipino-style.

     

    4. MC for a night at a Midget Boxing Match

    Yes, midget boxing… It’s a thing. A humorous show where little people get into the boxing ring and smash each other’s faces. Cheering on the fight is the crowd, which consists of one more-or-less lost, older tourist and 30 prostitutes working at the bar. They cheer on their favourite fighter and laugh like the world will end if they don’t. ‘Weird’ doesn’t even begin to describe this. As soon as the fight is over and the “staff” notices you’re not there to get a girl, the prostitutes go back to their seats and continue doing what they were doing before you entered; looking incredibly bored. Four of them enter the ring and perform some badly choreographed dances, similar to the ones you did at a 3rd grade dance recital; very PG.

    Although it’s more an act than an actual fight, it’s bizarre enough to be funny. They might offer you to MC the boxing match. Go ahead if you dare!

    midget boxing, manila
    welcoming sign right outside the bar
    midget boxing, manila
    midget boxing
    midget boxing, Manila
    we have a winner!

    If you care to see a short video Midget Boxing Manila

    TIP: you’ll find this place in the Burgos area. The entrance is free but the drinks are very pricy so order a beer and consider it your entry ticket. 

     

    5. Slurp up the embryonic juices of a young duck

    Walking around in the streets, you will hear vendors shouting: “Balut! Balut!” Street food that’s worth a try, a true delicacy in the Philippines. It’s a developing duck embryo that is boiled alive and eaten in the shell. Add salt and vinegar, slurp up the broth surrounding the embryo, then eat the embryo. Not for the faint of heart!

    TIP: eating this peculiar snack can get pretty messy if you’re not a seasoned balut-eater. Have something ready to wipe your hands and face with.

    note the staring eye
    note the staring eye

     

    A special thanks to my friend Aubrey Aliguyon for pointing me in the right direction for a quirky Manila experience

    Do you enjoy doing quirky things while traveling?

    The post “5 Quirky Things To Do in Manila” first appeared on Travel Cake.

     

  • Special Places: Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda

    Special Places: Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda

    Tucked away between dark forests of luxuriant foliage, wild gorillas and vast plains of savannas, is a magical place called Lake Bunyonyi. The lake, nicknamed  “the place of little birds”, lies in southwest Uganda near the borders of Rwanda and DRC. The 29 hilly little islands scattered around the crater lake are excellent for some R&R right in the centre of Africa.

     

    Lake Bunyonyi
    Lake Bunyonyi

     

    Awakening the first morning there, I opened my eyes and saw the mist rolling in over the hills onto the glassy lake. The sun had just started shining and the birds were chirping a joyful song. “I can’t believe this is real”, I thought…

    lake bunyonyi
    break of dawn

     

    We were staying an open-air geodome, crafted with local materials. No doors, no windows, just a thatched roof and walls with a big opening in the front serving as a gateway to the outside world. From our bamboo beds, we could admire the lake while filling our lungs with the fresh scent of morning dew… So close to nature, yet protected from its harshest elements.

    the geodome, Lake Bunyonyi
    the geodome
    Lake Bunyonyi
    View from the bed
    eco-shower, Lake Bunyonyi Uganda
    eco-shower with a view

     

    There was a serene silence around the lake. Aside from the occasional slow shuffle of a staff member passing by, the only thing you could hear during the day was the gentle breeze and the sound of birds and crickets.

    In bed at night, I could almost hear the stars twinkling. It was like mother earth singing us a sweat lullaby.

    Our days were spent spattering in the lake, canoeing to neighbouring islands, hiking, catching up on our reading and devouring the island’s delicious organic dishes.

    Lake Bunyonyi Uganda
    paddling to another island
    Lake Bunyonyi Uganda
    kids from the neighbouring island
    Lake Bunyonyi Uganda, swing
    enjoying the Garden of Eden with a cold lager

     

    Lake Bunyonyi is were you go to take it easy. Ideal to unwind after some heavy gorilla tracking or after long days spent in safari vans. It’s a place of solace and tranquility, a place where you can really ‘just be’.

    It’s a special and magical place in Eastern Africa.

     

    Lake Bunyonyi Uganda

    Do you know a special magical place? Where is it?

    The post “Special Places: Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda” first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • How to spend the weekend in Budapest (when you’ve already done the sightseeing)

    How to spend the weekend in Budapest (when you’ve already done the sightseeing)

    You’re in Budapest and you’ve already seen the main tourist attractions or you’re not really in the mood to do so. It happens sometimes… and that’s ok! Especially in Budapest where there are plenty of ways to usefully spend your time in ways that will not leave you feeling like a lousy traveller. So how do you still soak in some culture and history?

     

    Walk by the ‘shoes on the Danube promenade’

    In Pest, on the banks of the Danube,  there is an interesting memorial in honour of the Jewish people who were killed in Budapest during WWII. They were ordered to remove their shoes and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies would fall into the river and were carried away. I found this a moving piece of art, well worth a detour.

    shoes monument danube
    shoes on the danube promenade

     

    Cure yourself at the Thermal Baths

    Treat yourself to a soothing and possibly therapeutic afternoon at one of the 15 public thermal baths of Budapest. The city’s has been famous for its medicinal thermal springs since the Roman Empire (more on that here). Till this day, the inhabitants of the Budapest use these bath-complexes to heal, relax and spend some quality time with friends, family and fellow chess players.

     playing chess, budapest
    locals playing chess

    Some of the bath complexes date back to the 16th– 17th century. Pick your favourite for some R&R in the hot water pools, cold water pools, saunas… Most complexes even offer massages. I spent a snowy afternoon in the Széchenyi bath, one of the largest spa complexes in Europe. Switching from one 39C° bath to the next was quite challenging, with an outside temperature of -5°C. The contrast of the natural hot water and the freezing air made the experience truly memorable. I mean, how often does one get to bathe in the snow?! It’s good for the blood circulation, they say. Of course you can choose to bathe indoors too! 

    budapest
    warming up on a grey day

     

    Have afternoon tea at a historical Café

    There are several renowned cafés which have been around for decades. The most famous and popular ones being “Gerbaud’s” and “Ruszwurm”. Be warned, the prices are quite steep, but in return you get a slice of pastry that has been perfected over the course of 80 years or more. Order a coffee or hot chocolate if you don’t have the means to indulge in afternoon tea! Sit back, enjoy whatever you can afford and let yourself get transported to the late 19th century. 

    €8 hot chocolate
    €8 hot chocolate

     

    Sunset at the Parliament

    “More beautiful from the outside than from the inside”; normally a phrase that evokes negative feelings. Not in this case though. The Hungarian Parliament may well be the most photographed building of Budapest. Its architectural beauty is best admired from across the river. Bring drinks/snacks and marvel at this architectural beauty as it changes hues with the setting of the sun. Be warned, you’ll be sitting near a busy motorway, so don’t expect peace and quiet.

    budapest parilament
    sunset on the parilament
    dusk on the parliament budapest
    dusk on the parliament

     

    Shop for paprikas and souvenirs at the Central Market Hall

    As a huge fan of markets, I had a wonderful time snooping around the central market of Budapest. There is nothing like getting lost in the numerous aisles of produce, cured meats, cheeses, spices, pastry, and endless supplies of paprika. It’s a great way to taste and learn about traditional Hungarian cuisine at its freshest. On the second level, you can browse through hundreds of crafts and tacky souvenirs.

    central market hall, budapest
    central market hall
    budapest
    table deco
    meats market budpest
    meats

     

    Have a couple of drinks at one of the many ruin bars

    A ruin bar or a kert is a temporary bar set up in a deserted building or factory. Sort of an underground pop-up bar, if you will. Some last only through the summer while others stay in business for several years. They are equipped with an eclectic mix of rejected and recycled furniture, works of local artists, graffiti… They have a certain edginess which makes them so popular with locals and tourists alike. Some of the bars serve cheap pizza during a couple of hours a night, others offer carrots with your drinks… “Why not eat a healthy snack with your beer”, the waitress said. TOUCHÉ!

     “Szimpla kert” is one of the most famous and well renowned kerts. Up to date information on all the kerts in Budapest can be found here

    healthy beer snack
     szimpla kerts
    one of the rooms at szimpla
     Szimpla kertz, budapest
    drinks in a bathtub

     

    Pizza at Marxim

    Ever wonder what it was like to be a part of ‘the resistance’ during communist times? Ever wanted to feel that underground vibe? Well, you can! Marxim is a pizza restaurant/bar on the Buda side of town where you can -more or less- relive those days. How about a “pizza à la Stalingradsokje” or a “Red October pizza”? Why not even try a “Papa Marx’ favourite”? The décor is entirely communist themed and with a little bit of imagination; you’d think you were tele-transported back in time. Although, I doubt they had pizza back then.

    booths separated by chicken gauze
    booths separated by chicken gauze and barbed wire
    making revolution plans
    making revolution plans

     

    Hang out at Fisherman’s Bastion

    Yes, this is part of the classic attractions in Budapest, but it’s such a beautiful and fun place, it deserves a hangout visit! Ideal for a romantic rendez-vous, playing hide and seek, a photo shoot or a walk around the oh-so-quaint neighbourhood. Bring a scarf, hat and gloves on cold days, the wind up there is brutal. 

    view from my hiding spot
    view from my hiding spot
    romance, fisherman's bastion, Budapest
    romance at fisherman’s bastion

     

    Spa-rty at one of the oldest thermal baths

    If you’re into the party scene, this will probably be a highlight for you. Cinetrip organises audio-visual parties in unique locations i.e the thermal baths. Party in a 200year-old turkish bath surrounded by lasers, smoke and international dj’s… It’s no surprise these parties are rapidly gaining popularity. Not my cup of tea (anymore?), but not to be missed for those of you who want to give aqua-twerking a go!

    sparty time
    sparty time

     

    Discover the Hungarian cuisine and wines

    While it’s not an internationally renowned cuisine, hungarian staples are quite tasty. I was surprised at their ability to turn something as simple as fried mushrooms with rice into a scrumptious dish. The food is very flavourful and hearty; weight loss is not a probability here. Spend some time looking for restaurants serving authentic dishes or take on of the widely available cooking class. Try goulash soup, chicken paprika and stuffed savoury crêpes. The sweet pastries are divine and much cheaper than in France. I found the cherry strudel to be particularly tasty.

    caviar tartines, goulash soup, pastry galore, mushrooms and rice
    caviar tartines, goulash soup, pastry galore, mushrooms and rice
    cherry strudel
    cherry strudel

    Have you been to Budapest? Have you done any of these activities while there?

    The post “How to spend the weekend in Budapest (when you’ve already done the sightseeing)” first appeared on Travel Cake.

  • Eating dog in East Timor

    Eating dog in East Timor

    It was no mistake, but a conscious choice I made under the motto: don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!

    There I sat, in the hostels’ common room, chatting away with all the interesting travellers who were exploring a relatively unknown destination: East-Timor.

    As we discussed our experiences in the country so far, a new found friend mentioned he had stumbled upon a canteen that served dog meat. I was intrigued! Especially when the Chinese girl sitting across me affirmed that it was a must-try dish! She described vividly how good dog meat tastes and how it’s served in the form of pudding in China. Wide-eyed, I listened and grew more and more curious. I’m the type of person who will try any food once -maggots and cockroaches being the only exceptions. I felt compelled to try it. I wasn’t likely to ever order it off a menu but now the opportunity laid right in front of me… slow cooked in a red and green chili sauce, just waiting to be eaten.

    Hey, don’t judge…

    slow cooked in red and geen chili
    slow cooked in red and geen chili

    Maybe a little bit of background first. East Timor – officially Timor Leste– underwent a long and painful bloody invasion that only ended 16 years ago. The country suffered from famine during the long lasting war and people were left with no option but to eat anything edible they could lay hands on, such as dogs.

    Once the situation improved, people had gotten accustomed to the taste of dog meat and truly enjoyed it. We spoke with a local Timorese who explained that even though they would see the dogs eating the human corpses lying on the street, they’d still choose eat the dogs. Partly out of necessity and partly because they liked meat.

    eatingdog
    first bite is the hardest?

    Since 2002, Timor-Leste is recognised by the UN as an independent country and things have been looking up. Even though the economic situation is still deplorable, dog meat is no longer a necessity. Yet, many Timorese still enjoy a good serving of dog while others refuse to consume it, as it reminds them of bad times…

    Timor-Leste is a catholic country where a significant amount of muslims reside; Indonesians, Indians, expats and locals. Since dog is ‘haram’ in islamic culture, the Timorese keep the dog meat (RW) in a separate cabinet, so it wouldn’t ‘contaminate’ the rest of the food.

    RW
    know your meats… “RW” is no chicken!

     

    Anyways… I ate dog stew. How was it?

    The sauce was delightful; it had a nice little kick to it but overpowered the gamey flavour of the meat, which was tough and chewy. Its texture was comparable to that of an old piece of beef you find at the bottom of your freezer. This wasn’t a beautifully cut steak I got, just some random squares of meat, consisting mostly fat and skin… I wanted to be brave and I didn’t want to waste food, but… I couldn’t finish my plate. With every bite, I couldn’t help but picture myself nibbling on one of those scabby streets dogs. So, I put down my fork and drank a litre of water. I’ve tried it and now know for sure; I do not like dog meat.

    eating-dog

    What’s the most unusual meat you’ve ever eaten?

    The post “Eating dog in East Timor” first appeared on Travel Cake

     

  • Part II. The best of Palawan

    Part II. The best of Palawan

    A couple of days ago, I started listing the 20 best things of Palawan, the Philippines. Today, I’m finishing off the list (Read part I here)

    In no particular order,

     

    What else makes Palawan so great?

     

    11. Motorcycling through the country side

    Hire a motorcycle/scooter in El Nido or Coron and drive off into the horizon. Feel the wind through your hair while taking in the beauty of the landscapes, the villages… Kids on the side of the road scream ‘HELLOOO!’ or put their hands out for a full driving speed high-five. The motorbike gives you the freedom to stop anywhere you like; an unexpected mangrove river or a little-visited kingfisher park… Beware of the half-finished roads full of potholes, especially right after big rains. If you don’t drive, you can always bat your eyes at someone with a motorcycle and get a ride. Yes, even guys might get lucky! Do what ever you can, because it’s a ride not to be missed!

    red dirt roads, Palawan, Philippines
    red dirt roads
    mangrove park, Palawan, Philippines
    mangrove river
    driving Palawan, Philippines
    a minimum driving skills needed

     

    12. The seafood curry at “Squido’s”, El Nido town

    It’s huge, it’s messy, dirt cheap and absolutely delicious. The curry paste used for the dish comes straight from Madras and the seafood is as fresh as can be. With “Squido’s” being a French-Philippino fusion restaurant, guess what the curry is served with? Mashed potatoes! A surprising combo that leaves you wanting more. Check out this portion for two…

    "fruits de mer curry" Palawan, Philippines
    “fruits de mer curry”

     

    13. The warm smiles

    Smiles are not thrown around all the time, everywhere for no apparent reason, like in some Asian countries, but they are warm, wide and genuine. It’s the ideal place for portrait photography. Especially since people in the Philippines love to strike a pose!

    a child's smile, Palawan, Philippines
    a child’s smile
    kids, Palawan, Philippines
    photo as requested by these girls

     

    14. Sleeping and working in beach shacks

    I don’t know about you, but I’m crazy about beach shacks. To me they crown the beach life experience. Sleeping on the beach is fabulous, so what about working with the sounds of nature in the background?

    The internet is not all that on Palawan, but if you can do without, it’s the perfect place to get some work done or  draft a couple of thesis chapters.

    getting some work done...
    getting some work done…

     

    15. Waterfalls and hot springs

    Two of my weak spots. When I hear either of those words, I interestedly spring up, ready to make my way there. There are several waterfalls and natural hot springs across the island, most of them are low key and little visited.

    low key waterfalls
    low key waterfalls
    waterfall, Palawan, Philippines
    no pushy tourists

     

    16. It’s Jurassic Park, minus the dinosaurs

    JP is real and it’s in Palawan! OK, technically, it’s not; the film was mostly shot in Hawaii… Either way, I often saw myself in a Jurassic park scene and that’s just too exciting!

    real jurassic park, Palawan, Philippines
    approaching jurassic park

    Palawan, Philippines

     

    17. Finding paradise around every corner

    You walk and all of the sudden…

    You drive your bicycle and all of the sudden…

    You row your kayak and all of the sudden…

    Palawan, Philippines
    surprise!

    …A little corner of paradise surprises you and welcomes you to sit back and relax…

     

    18. The snorkelling

    Those who don’t dive or don’t have the budget to do so, are also in for a treat in Palawan. The snorkel sites are at least as impressive as the dive sites. The coral is in excellent shape, colourful tropical fish are abound and the water is crystal clear. Sometimes you don’t even need to snorkel to admire the underwater world, you can just look down from the boat and get a glimpse of what lies beneath. As discussed in my previous post, there are a few shipwrecks you can discover by snorkelling.

    wreck snorkelling, Palawan, Philippines
    wreck ready to be snorkled
    snorkel, Palawan, Philippines
    if you don’t feel like hitting the water, just look out of the boat

     

    19. Having a cool beer on a deserted beach

    Even if you are in the middle of nowhere in Palawan, chances are, there is a small house or shop nearby, the owner has a cold beer in his fridge and he’ll sell it to you for a reasonable price. This means you can have your ice cold beer in a deserted area! If you’re lucky, they might even throw in a couple of salted peanuts…

     San Miguel on the beach, Palawan, Philippines
    cold San Miguel on the beach

     

    20. The insane sunsets

    I still can’t get over how intense these were. Just for that, I’d return to Palawan. The following picture has not been altered in Photoshop! This is real! 

    sunset, El Nido, Palawan, Philippines
    sunset over El Nido

     

    There you have it, the 20 best things about Palawan. Why have you not booked your ticket yet?

     

    Which travel destination has blown your mind?

     The post “Part II. The best of Palawan” first appeared on Travel Cake.