The canchánchara… My favourite cocktail, born in the colonial town of Trinidad in Cuba. Spend a day in the old town and let it transport you to another era. An era of cobbled streets, horse drawn carriages and grand 19th century Spanish mansions. Add some slightly ‘rum intoxicated’ mulattos swinging their hips to the rhythmic conga beats in the sweltering late afternoon heat and you’ve got yourself the perfect Cuban cliché, which quite truthfully, isn’t too far off from reality.
cobbled streets of Trinidad
I’m not planning to go back to Cuba any time soon, but I’m craving a taste of that Cuban passion and fierceness. So today, I’m putting some salsa music on full blast and making my “go-to cocktail”. It’s a fast and easy recipe. Care to join me?
WHAT YOU’LL NEED (makes 1 glass)
5 cl Rum
1.5 cl lime (approx. juice of 1 lime)
1.5 cl honey (approx. 1 Tablespoon)
a handful of crushed ice
soda water to top off
The original recipe calls for raw rum (aguardiente), but white rum will do. If you prefer your cocktail more sweet or sour, adjust the lime-honey ratio.
ingredients
PREPARATION
Mix the lime and the honey in a glass until the honey is completely dissolved.
Add your shot of rum
Fill the glass with (crushed) ice
Top off with a dash of sparkling water
TIP: If you’re making cocktails for several people, make a batch of honey-lime mix ahead of time and keep it in a bottle or container. This way you can top up your guests drinks more easily: pour some of the mixture into your guests glass and just add rum, ice and water, saves you a lot of time.
Salud!
There you have it, a delicious canchánchara for a passionate Friday evening! ¡Salud!
When some friends announced their upcoming months long trip to Nepal, I was immediately transported back to its colourful streets clouded with incense. As soon as I arrived home, I browsed through my photo collection to relive my Nepalese journey. I could almost feel the fresh mountain air filling up my lungs and hear a distant “Ohm-ing”. I thought about the captivating myths and stories on super natural beings and Buddhist/Hindu gods.
Originally, Nepal wasn’t my destination of choice, if it was up to me, I would have chosen to dance samba and drink caipirinhas in Rio, but I was expected on the other side of the world, so I put my wish on hold. I wasn’t particularly psyched to explore Nepal, it was the exact opposite of what I was craving; passion, beaches and loud uplifting music. Despite having heard only great things about the “roof of the world”, I expected to be bored with all that peace and serenity -sometimes I wonder who the hell I was…
I never regretted going to Nepal, it was a destination that surprised me in many ways. Looking back at the pictures now, I start dreaming of going back. I’ve seen most of the attractions, so I’d just go back to… BE. I should only be so lucky to catch a whiff of that pure, crisp air!
serenity in the morningwise “Baba” giving blessings and life advicemorning prayersanimal sacrifice as part of religionprayer flagsBoudhanath in Kathmandulaundry in the cloudsenchanted forestfinding religion on the summit of a mountainThe Himalayaslake in Pokharasoaking up the energy around the templesprayers wheelsclassic-and illegal- mode of transportation: on bus rooftopschildren making offeringsguardians of the templesriding the elephant temple guard
Is Nepal on your wish list or are you indifferent? If you’ve been, what did you think?
Maybe I should start by answering the question “where is Sulawesi”. Among the 6000 inhabited islands of Indonesia, lies Sulawesi, one of the country’s largest. Announcing we were off to explore Sulawesi, my friends and I all got the same puzzled reaction: “Oh, how lovely… What’s in Sulawesi?” To be honest, I wasn’t quite sure when we left. I had read a couple of thing here and there, but it was a big question mark to me as well.
So here’s is what I found on the island of Sulawesi
1. Jaw dropping landscapes
Mist rolling over hills and valleys, tiny motorways crossing vast plains of rice fields, rugged cliffs, jungles, volcanoes, beaches… Diverse landscapes lending themselves perfectly for hikes and motorbike rides.
around the hillsblack sand beachdriving a motorbike
2. Tana Toraja- remarkable culture and architecture
Land of the Torajan people. Emerge yourself in the fascinating culture of the Toraja in the southern half of the island. Torajans welcome guests to discover their unique culture and beliefs. I know the word “unique” is often used too loosely to describe pretty much anything, but if there was ever a correct description for this culture, unique would be the one! I found their “death-centric way of life” particularly interesting.
traditional Torajan jewelleryat a Torajan funeralarchitecture
3. Gorgeous deserted islands
The Togean islands for example… If you keep in mind the effort to get there- we drove and sailed for 2 days, non-stops- it will not come as a shock that there is no phone or internet connection on the tiny islands. Great as a digital detox or just a relaxing few days of beach, snorkel, eat, sleep, repeat.
mangrove beach in Bunakenbeach crabs everywhereromance returns when technology disappears…
4. A dark side
As mentioned above, death is everywhere around you in Southern Sulawesi. Not in creepy, dangerous way, but as a natural, celebrated part of life. Every now and then you stumble upon a collection of century old bones and coffins. Bodies are buried in cliffs and caves, skeletons are given cigarettes and money. Sometimes I imagined myself on the set of a gothic music video.
surprised by these century old skullscigarettes for the dead
5. Top notch underwater scenery
Prepare to redefine your perception of colour… Some of the brightest, most colourful coral and fish can be found in Sulawesi. Despite the years of dynamite fishing in the area, there is still a considerable amount of intact coral. The fishes’ patterns, textures and colour schemes inspire a mental creation of a new wardrobe. Such a pity I’m not a designer!
For the experienced who have had their share of coral gazing and would like to see a different kind of marine habitat, the Lembeh straight offers some world class muck diving opportunities. Snorkel in Bunaken, muck dive in Lembeh and dive around the Togean islands.
unfortunately I don’t own a waterproof camera (yet?), so this is the best I can show you. Togean islands
6. Tarsiers
If you ask me, they are the cutest primates on this planet. Sulawesi houses tarsiers in two of their national parks. We tracked them down with a guide at the crack of dawn in Tangkoko National Park. My nine year old self gave me a big “high five” for seeing them in real life… Childhood dreams come true!
tarsier back in his sleeping tree after a night of huntingaren’t they cute?
7. A new cuisine to try out
The cuisine in Sulawesi has its own personality. Sure, you can find your typical “mie goreng” or “nasi campur”, but an abundance of traditional dishes are waiting to be sampled. Vegetarians/vegans beware: Sulawesi dishes are heavy in meats or fish, so you’ll have a hard time finding something other than rice to eat- the rice is exquisite though. I tried “pa’piong”, a Torajan speciality: meat (or fish) with vegetables and traditional black spice, slow cooked in a bamboo tube over an open fire. Incredibly strong and distinct flavours!
exciting new spices to try…doesn’t look very appetising but worth a try: pa’piong with black rice
8. Jellyfish lake
On the Togean islands you will find a lake full of stingless colourful jellyfish. You can swim with them, observe them while snorkelling. There are supposedly only three lakes in the world where this is possible! The jellyfish have no natural predators in those waters therefore they’ve lost their traditional defence mechanism, which makes them harmless to you, swimmer. It’s a magnificent experience. I quote my dear husband: “it’s like swimming in a lake full of boobs”.
foto by Nao Nishimiya
9. A Buffalo and Pig market
Admittedly, this is a rather strange attraction, but definitely worth a visit. I was so impressed I could hardly think. The noises, the smells, the fact that everyone else seemed so much at ease while I was fearing for my life (not really)… I find it enriching to challenge my views of what is “acceptable behaviour”, in this case behaviour towards cattle. Again, maybe not a good idea for vegetarians/vegans…
walking amongst the buffalosfarmer selling his pigs
10. Beautiful national parks, home to endangered species: crested black macaque
There are many national parks with impressive fauna and flora. One of the parks is home to the critically endangered crested black macaque. I must say, I had no idea how bad the situation was. These apes are literally on the verge of extinction, even more so than tigers, orang utans or rhinos!
curly rootsshameless macaque photographclimbing a 2000 year old tree
11. Fantastic coffee
The plantations lie in the Torajan highlands and produce a coffee bean that is good enough to be internationally distributed as ‘gourmet coffee’. The premium beans can hardly be found in the rest of the country, they are reserved for export, but we found a restaurant that was serving premium Torajan coffee (Cafe Aras in Rantepao). WOW! If you can’t make it to Sulawesi, why not try a cup of their coffee in your country?
local coffee
Things to keep in mind
Sulawesi is not a cheap destination. Transportation is either extremely uncomfortable or pricey. Prices for meals are slightly higher than in Java or in Bali. If you are planning on diving, which is recommended, don’t forget to include that in your budget as well. Most dives are priced at 30US$. Accommodation on the smaller islands start at 20US$ per person, not per room (!) and include three meals.
To travel in Sulawesi means to wait around a lot. Slow travel is key if you want to see the island. The attractions are scattered around, which creates “dead days” between two attractions; days of travel or waiting for a connection. Take your time or travel by plane. There are 6 airports on the islands: Makassar (South) and Manado (North) being the biggest ones.
Had I known what I know now, I would have brought to the islands: a frisbee or a ball, a bottle of quality rum to make cocktails which are not served in Togean and extremely expensive in Bunaken. I would have brought more reading material– one novel wasn’t enough and some good snacks from the mainland– I was often hungry before dinner was served and got tired of eating the cookies from the only shop on the island.
Have you heard of Sulawesi as a tourist destination? Would you consider going?
I’ve recently discovered an interesting new iPad app by travel search site Momondo. I’m really excited about it so I thought I’d share it with you. ‘Momondo places‘ is an interactive city guide app helping you to find hotels, restaurants, shops, sights, markets and activities for your city trip. At this moment, there are 7 city guides to chose from: Barcelona, Berlin, Copenhagen, London, New York, Paris and Rome.
What’s so great about ‘Momondo Places’?
The Originality: The colour wheel
A colour wheel with corresponding “moods” allows you to get specific suggestions of where to go, eat, sleep, play… Feeling ‘social’? The app gives you hostels, cheap activities, and vibrant nightlife tips. Pick your mood and you’re set.
The Usability
‘Momondo Places’ is a very intuitive app. No need to read a manual to understand how it works, the app speaks for itself. In fact, I’m pretty sure my grandmother wouldn’t have any problems getting the hang of it. Aside from the smooth navigation, it’s also very flexible; you can search on other criteria besides “mood”. Look for specific items like: restaurants only, certain areas only, what’s near your current location or all of the above combined.
The Style
The app has stylish visuals. It has the look and feel of a book which allows you to flip through the pages filled with tips. It’s packed with beautiful high quality photographs giving you an idea of what to expect.
The Content
The guide book is a pleasant read. Again, not too complicated, straight to the point. It features hotspots as well as hidden gems and you can leave feedback for every tip offered. There is also a function that allows you to ‘favourite’ tips you want to remember or to reuse.
The interactive offline working map
This is might be what I like most about the app. All the suggested places to visit as well as public transportation stops are pinned on an interactive map. Once downloaded, the map is available offline, so you can navigate the city on GPS. You can see yourself moving though the streets and walk straight to your destination.
It’s free!
You download the app for free, then download the desired city guide(s) for free. As I mentioned above, once it’s downloaded, you can use the content and the map without Wi-Fi or 3G. So no roaming costs either.
As you can tell, I’m sold! The only thing missing is more destinations! Momondo is currently working on new city guides covering Lisbon, Amsterdam and Moscow, but I hope there is more to come. They are also developing a mobile app, which is more interesting to me, seeing I don’t usually carry my iPad whilst exploring a city.
With all the negative publicity given to the host of the Winter Olympics these past weeks, I started thinking about my own experiences in Russia a few years ago. The unbelievable “fail” photo’s and comments that sports journalists in Sochi have been tweeting got me “LOL’ing” as well as thinking: “why am I not surprised?!” During my travels through Northern European Russia I’ve encountered similarly bizarre scenes. However, when I call that trip to mind, I remember so much more than kitchens in the bathrooms or getting a fork to stir my tea with, because they ran out of spoons…
the restaurant gave me a plastic fork. All the metal ones were used up…
I remember…
A very open and elaborate drinking culture
Straight off the airport, we were walking down the street trying to find our host’s apartment. Noticing we were tourists, a random man stopped us and begged us to put down our backpacks for a minute so we could have a drink. He pulled out a large can of beer from the left inner pocket of his jacket. From the right inner pocket he pulled out two cups and started serving us. He made a toast and we drank the beer. We had been on Russian soil for no more than 30 minutes and here we were, standing on a side walk, sharing a beer with a stranger. Talk about a warm welcome!
vodka loveanytime, anywhere!
The stunning metro stations
The metro stations in St-Petersburg and in Moscow are awe-inspiring. We spent a few hours going on and off the metro just to admire the stations. Why don’t all metro halts in the world have ornate chandeliers?
fancy metro hallmetro station
I remember…
The midnight sun
Traveling past the Arctic Circle in July means it doesn’t really get dark at all. We’d stay up all night and chat with fellow travellers watch the sunset last for hours.
2 am sunshine from the trainnever ending sunset in North Russia
The unique and diverse architecture
You might associate Russian architecture with massive concrete blocks with zero personality. Granted, these Sovjet blocks are predominant in the street scene but there is so much more to Russian architecture. The unique styles left a permanent impression on me.
We spent most of our nights either on the train or at locals’ houses. Some hosts we found through CouchSurfing, others randomly on the street -such hospitable people! My favourite host, we met and stayed with by chance. He was a man of few words, but when he said something… As you can see from the photograph below, he stayed true to the Russian ‘no smiling in pictures’ rule… Is it because smiling gives you wrinkles? A double chin maybe?
clearly, I have yet to learn how to “smeyes”
Weird breakfasts in hotels
The few times we did stay in hotels, we were offered the strangest breakfasts. It was probably due to our careless hotel choices, but every breakfast that was served to us seemed like a cluster of edibles found in the back of the fridge, stacked on a plate. Once we got a chocolate bar for breakfast…
tiny slice of bread, leftover cumcumber, chocolate covered twinkies, eggs, a large chunk of butter and ham.
I remember…
The Russian delicacies
I was on such an extremely tight budget, I didn’t get to sample much of the staples but I did have the opportunity to try some fine vodka and caviar. Two items I wasn’t fond of before the trip. I realised I probably disliked these because so far I had only tasted a ‘crap quality’ version of them! Also delicious, borscht (beet-cabbage-soup), Pelmeni (the Russian answer to ravioli), blini (Russian pancakes) and the chocolate, which is a big deal for a Belgian to admit.
exquisite vodkacaviar
The old school countryside… On the Solovetsky islands
Picking wild flower from a meadow, wooden cabins, washing our faces in a babbling creek, eating berries all day long, lying in the long grass spotting shapes in the clouds… The Russian country life brings a sense of carefree childhood. It’s probably one of the most cliché descriptions but it really does feel like traveling back in time. There were hardly any cars or telephones, women were washing laundry by hand, kids were running around laughing. It seemed so far away from modern reality, well, the Solovetsky islands are literally far from the modern world.
Solovetsky islandswooden cabin fresh strawberries sold on the side of the roadsauna toilet picking wild flowers
Unfortunately the bad reputation Russia is making for itself is not just about poor accommodation in the olympic village. It’s about corruption, homophobia, violence… Yet, traveling around Russia was one of the most exciting journeys I’ve done so far. I could hardly read the signs and nobody spoke a word of English in most of the places we visited, but somehow we managed to communicate and get along very well despite the fact that I am an obviously foreign-looking woman. This brings me hope that someday- sooner rather than later- Russia will grow to be a more open-minded and tolerant nation.
Have you ever been to Russia? Would you consider going?
Not exactly the question you’d expect when stepping out of a long distance bus… And yet, what this man was proposing, is quite normal in Tana Toraja. In fact, funerals are the “main attraction” in the region. Visitors mostly come to learn about the Torajan culture in which death happens to play a central role. The Torajans are known for their elaborate traditional funeral rites. Tana Toraja, which means land of the Toraja people, is located in South Sulawesi, Indonesia.
arriving in Tana Toraja, Sulawesi
Intrigued by this culture, we agreed to the invitation and headed to the funeral only minutes after dropping our bags at the hotel. Luther, our guide, advised us to gift a few packs of cigarettes to the mourning family. “Cigarettes”? How ironic. He also told us we were verylucky; we were going to the funeral of a very rich lady who had long been chief of village…
“Lucky”? What a confusing use of words…
The deceased lady’s family welcomed us warmly and insisted we’d sit with them. We were offered tea and biscuits while encouraged to chat about our countries. This was all very awkward. The taboo around death in Western cultures was clearly nowhere to be found around here.
The Torajans seemed very “relaxed” about it all. That might have something to do with the fact that when people pass, they are not buried straight away. Their families continue to work in order to gather all necessary funds to finance the funeral. It may take months or years before the burying rituals begin, depending on the family’s cash flow.
Meanwhile, the bodies are embalmed, wrapped in cloth and kept in their traditional houses or ‘tongkonan’, under the same roof with their kin. Their spirits then dwell around the village until the burial. The dead aren’t considered dead, but merely ‘incurably ill’ until the funeral is complete. They are treated as though they were still alive. Family members take turns in sitting with the body, brining it food, water and cigarettes on a daily basis. Not doing so would lead the deceased to think they aren’t cared about and he/she would bring bad luck to the village.
tongkonans
In Torajan culture, the funeral is the most important ceremony in life. One leads his life in order to have the biggest, most elaborate funeral possible. The 100 or more guests always bring a gift: cigarettes, rice, a pig or a buffalo according to their financial ability. The funeral lasts 11 days and consists of serval rites.
highly prized buffalo being gifted to the familychanting and dancingbuffalo fighting is part of the funeral ritesa procession of the closest family membersspiritual men lead the procession
Torajan funerals are a bloody affair. The deceased’s soul is believed to travel to the afterlife on a buffalo or horse. How do you bring livestock to your afterlife? By sacrificing it, of course. Therefore, the more buffalo offered, the more reassured the family will be that their loved ones will reach his or her final destination safely. Apart from buffaloes, the dead will also need to bring along their most valuable possessions, including the rest of their livestock. This is one of the most important funeral rites: pigs and buffaloes are slaughtered by the dozens. Their souls join their owners while their flesh is distributed with the living family and guests. How’s that for a party favour, a big bag of meat…
gifted pigsthe meat is shared amongst guest and the blood is kept in bamboo
Because buffaloes come with a high price tag, their horns are cut off and kept as a “trophy”. They are hung up on the deceased tongkonan and represent the family’s wealth. The more horns on your house, the wealthier your family.
small buffalo hornstongkonan of a wealthy family
When the funeral is completed the bodies are buried. Not under the ground, but in a cave or in a hole carved in a cliff. Family members craft a “tau-tau”; what could be compared to an avatar, representing the deceased. His/her spirit is believed to inhabit the tau-tau. They are placed on a balcony in front of the graves. Several times a year, after the rice harvest, family members ask their ancestors, inhabiting the tau-tau, for well being, good crops and healthy children.
graves in the clifftau-tau and gravestau-tau; meaning not human, nor puppet.more live like tau-tau
The burying ritual for babies is less complex. The lifeless babies are embalmed and placed in a sitting position in a carved hole of a large tree. The type of tree used a for the burying is a specific one; a thick white fluid oozes from its bark when cut. The fluid symbolises the milk the tree will feed the young child with. It embraces the babies by growing around them and closing the hole. It becomes their mother. These trees are considered sacred and may not be approached by outsiders but we were allowed to visit an old tree which is no longer in use.
baby graves
Attending a funeral is weirdly enough, a top attraction in Tana Toraja. I found it such an incredible enrichment to experience how this culture deals with death and what place it has in their communities. Watching the slaughtering was bit harsh, however that’s easily put into perspective since it’s so authentic. This is not some show put on for tourists, this is Torajan reality. People are so friendly and open, I quickly felt at ease.
‘Funeral season’ is in July and August, but there are funerals throughout the year. Tourists are welcome to attend them and are treated as honoured guests. Make sure you bring a gift to the family! There isn’t really a dress code, but obviously you should dress modestly and respectfully. If you have a black t-shirt, wear it; you’ll fit right in. The city of Rantepao is a good base to explore Tana Toraja.
Would animal sacrificing stop you from attending a local ritual?
Who doesn’t love a smashing new year’s party? What if I told you this party lasts a few days, takes place in the sunny outdoors and involves insane amounts of water… That’s Thingyan, the water festival leading to the Burmese New Year. The festival takes place throughout Myanmar around mid april, during the country’s hottest period. Similar waterfestivals are celebrated in the neighbouring buddhist countries Thailand, Laos (Songkran) and Cambodia (Chaul Chnam Thmey).
We were lucky enough to be in Myanmar for Thingyan. It’s the most important public holiday in the country and we were told that the best place to celebrate, is in the capital. So we set off to Yangon a couple of days before the festival as there is very limited transportation during the festival.
I hadn’t expected the water festival to be a big deal. Boy, was I wrong! It started in the taxi on the way to the centre. The driver had covered the seats and dashboard with plastic.
stupidly thinking I stood a chance with my super soaker…
I asked him: “why is you car completely covered in pla…”
SPLASH!
An excited young man standing by the side of the road had just emptied a full bucket of ice water over my head. The taxi driver roared with laughter. “Happy happy?” he asked.
“Yes, happy…” I replied startled.
And so the tone was set…
ready for Thingyan
Although there is water thrown around absolutely everywhere, all the time -walking down the street in dry clothes is impossible- there are several areas where entertainment is provided. Most tourists found their way to the main square where a stage was set up featuring traditional dancers and water hoses. The dancing was beautiful but compared to what was going on in other parts of town this was quite boring.
THE place to be for Thingyan in Yangon is at theKandawgyi Lake. That’s where all the cool kids go. It’s fun, loud, and utter madness. Dozens of temporary water spraying stations are set up and double as dance stages. Pop and electro music blares from the speakers as the people dance, play and sing under what can only be described as the world’s largest shower. Every two steps a cheerful Burmese shakes your hand and asks “happy happy?”. You reply “happy happy!”.
world’s largest shower (1.5km long)
Every single person is soaking wet and carries some kind of container filled with water. When you’re not standing under the “mega shower” someone empties their container over you and simultaneously wishes you a ‘Happy New Year’.
The water is pumped out of the lake and is flowing morning to sunset, non-stop. Hoses used to soak festivalgoers vary from regular garden hoses to fire hoses! At some point I was even sprayed down with a high-pressure washer which was quiet painful. But it’s for a good cause: thefestival is held to wash away evil deeds, bad luck and sins from the past year before entering the new. Many of the adolescents take advantage of the more or less ‘free pass’ to commit some last minute “sins”. Drinking in public, walking hand in hand with their crushes, dressing and dancing provocatively…
the cool kids in town
Black Culture, organiser of one of the spraying stations, invited us to party on their dance floor. The DJ played some good beats and we mingled with the teenagers, hosing down passers-by. It reminded me of the City Parade, plus shower.
from the spraying platformon the dance/hose down stage, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineauparty at Black Culture, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau
The enthusiasm, excitement and happiness of the people were mind blowing. But then again, not really… This is the only time a year where the Burmese government permits crowds to gather in public areas. It’s the only time where colour, rank and status have little or no significance. Everyone is included; kids, grand-parents, business men in suits, tourists, bus drivers…
hiding under dad’s coat
The Burmese usually come across as soft-spoken, shy people, however, during Thingyan, they change into a fun-loving, outgoing crowd. Seeing this metamorphosis -maybe partly due to their alcohol consumption- is one of the things I enjoyed most about the water festival.
joking around with local women, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau
The festival lasts 3 to 5 days and the parties are mainly during day light. After sunset the participants return home and get a good night’s rest to resume the festivities the following day.
ending a fun day with a sleeping smile, photo by Marc-Antoine Martineau
TIPS
It’s important to really participate. Let go of your inhibitions and dance, jump, party… Get in there, allow people to talk to you. Go just as nuts as they do!
Those wanting to take a break from the madness or wish to take it easy, there are funfairs and (wet) food stands around the premises.
greasy snacks
Don’t forget to protect your camera and other tech stuff from the water!
If you do manage to take a train or bus during Thingyan, don’t think your safe. You will get hosed down in there too!
Celebrate Thingyan in 2014 from Sunday April 13th to Wednesday April 16th.
Have you heard of Thingyan? Would you enjoy such a festival?
Desperately needing to spend some time in nature and to get a dose of exoticism, I set off to Turkey. My budget was rather tight, but according to my research, I wouldn’t be needing much spending money in Turkey’s easternmost province, near the border with Iran. Perfect, I thought…
As I arrived in Istanbul, I found out that unfortunately, recent political turmoil had turned the area I wanted to visit into a temporary ‘no-go zone’. I seriously considered persevering my trip despite the issues, but the travel agent almost refused to sell me a bus ticket and insisted I change plans. Eventually, the flexible and sensible traveller in me arose and I decided to go to Cappadocia instead.
Cappadocia, historical region in central Turkey
Cappadocia being one of the most popular areas in Turkey, I knew it would be trickier with my small budget. Since I managed to stay within budget, I thought I’d share some of the tricks that could allow you to have a cheap Cappadocia trip.
1. The classic: take the overnight bus to get there
Obviously, it saves you a night at the hotel. Taking the long distance bus from Istanbul to Göreme, the “hub” in Cappadocia, is like flying business class. Think wide reclinable seats with lots of leg space, a complementary blanket and a personal screen displaying movies- in Turkish. During the ride, a “bus attendant” strides through the vehicle’s aisle serving drinks/snacks and makes sure the bus is always tidy. The downside: there’s a toilet/smoke break every hour or so and all lights are turned on at each stop. So, maybe not the best night of sleep.
2. Walkto enjoy the magical landscapes
There are plenty of tours designed to show you the area, but honestly, you can do without. Just pick up a map and start walking. One of the tours might be worth paying for (the Green Tour) as the attractions are spread out over a large area. However, taking this tour reminded me how much I hate group tours. Important: if you don’t take any kind of tour, make sure you read up on the history of the area. It’s fascinating!
easy to find your waythe love valleyvisiting 11th century murals with green tour
3. Hitchhike
You might be discouraged to go for a long walk because that would also mean a long hike back to town. However, people in the area are generally open to hitchhikers and chances are you’ll get picked up by the first car/truck with an open seat.
waiting for a ride…
4. Lodge in a cave
Not only is it part of the whole Cappadocia experience, it can also be very affordable. Many of the cave houses have been transformed into home stays and pensions. You can easily find an inexpensive dorm room (+- €7, at the time of writing) in a cave hotel with swimming pool. Most of these places additionally offer a generous breakfast buffet, leaving you full until the afternoon.
feeling like the Flinstonesnot bad for a hostel…
5. It’s OK to skip the hot air balloon flight
It seems as though every single visitor to the region embarks in a hot air balloon during their visits… “an essential Cappadocia experience”. Admittedly, it’s probably gorgeous, memorable and what not. But with prices starting at €120 for a one hour flight in a crammed basket, the budget traveller starts to doubt… That’s food for a week! A great alternative is to wake up at dawn and watch the balloons float through the morning sky. Dozens of balloons amongst the fairy chimneys. Stunning! At no point did I wish to be inside a balloon… This view was just perfect -and free.
the town at dawnsunrise, hot air balloons and a new friend…priceless
6. Cappadocian wine tasting
Wait, what is wine tasting doing on a “budget tip” list? First of all because… Turkish wine? Who knew?! That’s just an exciting must-try! Regardless of your budget. Second, a glass of Cappadocian wine is moderately priced and -in my humble opinion- not that great (yet?), so you’re not likely to go for seconds. Still worth a taste!
wine tasting along the way
7. Skip the Hammam
The Hammam in Göreme is pricey. Unless that’s where you want to splurge, I suggest you hold that experience for a larger city in Turkey.
8. Relax and Enjoy the silence
Although you’re in a touristy area, it’s still a quiet environment. Order a pot of tea and do some people watching or read that book you’ve been carrying around… Savour the peace and quite while soaking in the surroundings. This is probably my favourite thing about traveling on a budget: the monetary restrictions force you to spend at least one day not spending and consuming but slowing down and enjoying the beautiful, small things in this world.
customary tulip tea glassin silence
9. Donate a strand of hair to win a trip back to Cappadocia
There is a tiny ‘hair museum’ in the town of Avanos. It’s basically a cave with over 16.000 hair strands hanging from the walls and ceiling. Female visitors from all over the world donate a lock of hair to which their names and address is adhered. Twice a year, Mr. Galip, potter and owner of the museum, picks a lucky winner to return to Cappadocia and learn the art of pottery, all expenses paid. He has not mailed me yet. Entrance to the museum is free.
